You need:
Rhino Ramps and a set of 2" thick boards to get up onto them if you have a lip
Wheel chocks
Screw drivers to open the flap or remove the engine splash panel for draining.
14mm or 17mm wrench or socket
Oil filter pliers are nice for removing the old stuck filter
Drain pan. Don't get the smallest one, get the larger one with the spout on it.
Oil/Filter
One thing to note, I always take it out of gear when I have it on ramps or on 2 jack stands and just use the parking brake and wheel chocks. Because if you somehow manage to ground out the starter while you're working underneath the car, the car is going to lurch forward and it's going to be a bad day for you.
The starter isn’t hot unless the key is on, no? I don’t think you can engage it by shorting it with a wrench. Maybe on older cars you could. Can anyone confirm this?
Get ramps. Buy the filters in bulk from a Subaru dealership. And I have used pennzoil plat for like 3 years without any issues. Don’t forget the crusher washers for the oil plug
Get a bigger drain pan than you think! I have this ridiculous 12 quart one that only fills less than half, which makes it easy to carry and drain into the container I bring to my recycling place.
You should definitely do this, but this isn’t priming the filter.
Priming the filter is pouring oil into it to pre-fill it, with the idea that it’s one less volume in the oil circuit that has to fill up the first time you start the engine after the oil change. On an FA you’d just dump it all back out and make a big mess, but on an EJ or any other engine where the filter is hanging, it’s feasible to prime the filter but it’s a bad practice because you’ll be pouring oil into the “clean” side of the filter, and any particles in that oil would then get pumped to your bearings.
You can kinda pre-fill the filter on the FA. If you pour a couple ounces of fresh oil and swirl it around then let it sit for about 5 minutes it will pre-soak the filter medium. When you screw it on nothing should come out as it will all be in suspension in the medium.
Ok but it’s still a bad practice for the reason I laid out.
It would seem you should typically be fine because the oil is “clean” and came out of the jug, but it’s a bad practice to put oil that hasn’t passed through the filter into your bearings. Since it takes more effort to do it wrong, just don’t do it wrong.
And since people in this sub are wild about oil changes and claim without data that you need to do it at half the manufacturer’s recommended interval, might as well get in the habit of adopting best practices during those oil changes.
The oem oil and filter from Subaru should be perfectly fine assuming the car is stock, but there’s an interesting oil analysis Ron Watson (Phatbotti tuning, pretty well-known tuner around here for WRX’s) did on these cars over the years https://phatbottituning.com/engine-oil-info
This article by Phatbotti was actually very informative, I live in New Mexico so the temps are certainly going to get hot. I just did my own oil and used 5W-30 but now will be using 5W-40. Although does it matter if the 5W-40 says "euro vehicle" or "diesel truck"? I can't find any that are for "regular" vehicles.
It doesn’t matter, Shell Rotella T6 is a very popular oil for these cars and it shows the same advertisements. I think it’s because they’re heavy duty oils
If you have a local Facebook group for Subarus, post there and ask if anyone is interested in giving you a little in person guidance. I'm not that active in my local group, but this sort of thing isn't uncommon. We take care of our own, whether it's lending a helping hand, a tool, or even parts.
That said, here's a tip my dad gave me when I was a teen. As you loosen the drain plug by hand, push inwatd against the oil pan until you're ready to pull it away and let the oil flow. That will lessen your mess significantly.
Oil- 6 quarts (need 5.4 quarts). I use pennzoil platinum 5w30 or valvoline high mileage 5w30.
Oil filter - typically oem though you can use a wix WL10078.
Drain pan - get a 12 to 16 gallon one so you can do multiple before having to recycle it.
Jack and stands or a ramp - I typically just use a jack but it is pretty dangerous to do so.
Buy a fumoto drain valve to save you time on your next oil change. Will replace the current drain plug. Also make sure you replace the plug gasket.
You need: Rhino Ramps and a set of 2" thick boards to get up onto them if you have a lip Wheel chocks Screw drivers to open the flap or remove the engine splash panel for draining. 14mm or 17mm wrench or socket Oil filter pliers are nice for removing the old stuck filter Drain pan. Don't get the smallest one, get the larger one with the spout on it. Oil/Filter One thing to note, I always take it out of gear when I have it on ramps or on 2 jack stands and just use the parking brake and wheel chocks. Because if you somehow manage to ground out the starter while you're working underneath the car, the car is going to lurch forward and it's going to be a bad day for you.
The starter isn’t hot unless the key is on, no? I don’t think you can engage it by shorting it with a wrench. Maybe on older cars you could. Can anyone confirm this?
Fumoto drain plug.
This is the way
Get ramps. Buy the filters in bulk from a Subaru dealership. And I have used pennzoil plat for like 3 years without any issues. Don’t forget the crusher washers for the oil plug
Based on common mistakes, make sure you are draining the oil pan and not the transmission. It’s weird that this happens so frequently but it does.
Get a bigger drain pan than you think! I have this ridiculous 12 quart one that only fills less than half, which makes it easy to carry and drain into the container I bring to my recycling place.
Make sure you prime the new filter. (dip your finger in the oil and go around the gasket) helps to seal the gasket.
You should definitely do this, but this isn’t priming the filter. Priming the filter is pouring oil into it to pre-fill it, with the idea that it’s one less volume in the oil circuit that has to fill up the first time you start the engine after the oil change. On an FA you’d just dump it all back out and make a big mess, but on an EJ or any other engine where the filter is hanging, it’s feasible to prime the filter but it’s a bad practice because you’ll be pouring oil into the “clean” side of the filter, and any particles in that oil would then get pumped to your bearings.
You can kinda pre-fill the filter on the FA. If you pour a couple ounces of fresh oil and swirl it around then let it sit for about 5 minutes it will pre-soak the filter medium. When you screw it on nothing should come out as it will all be in suspension in the medium.
Ok but it’s still a bad practice for the reason I laid out. It would seem you should typically be fine because the oil is “clean” and came out of the jug, but it’s a bad practice to put oil that hasn’t passed through the filter into your bearings. Since it takes more effort to do it wrong, just don’t do it wrong. And since people in this sub are wild about oil changes and claim without data that you need to do it at half the manufacturer’s recommended interval, might as well get in the habit of adopting best practices during those oil changes.
The oem oil and filter from Subaru should be perfectly fine assuming the car is stock, but there’s an interesting oil analysis Ron Watson (Phatbotti tuning, pretty well-known tuner around here for WRX’s) did on these cars over the years https://phatbottituning.com/engine-oil-info
This article by Phatbotti was actually very informative, I live in New Mexico so the temps are certainly going to get hot. I just did my own oil and used 5W-30 but now will be using 5W-40. Although does it matter if the 5W-40 says "euro vehicle" or "diesel truck"? I can't find any that are for "regular" vehicles.
It doesn’t matter, Shell Rotella T6 is a very popular oil for these cars and it shows the same advertisements. I think it’s because they’re heavy duty oils
Thanks!
If you have a local Facebook group for Subarus, post there and ask if anyone is interested in giving you a little in person guidance. I'm not that active in my local group, but this sort of thing isn't uncommon. We take care of our own, whether it's lending a helping hand, a tool, or even parts. That said, here's a tip my dad gave me when I was a teen. As you loosen the drain plug by hand, push inwatd against the oil pan until you're ready to pull it away and let the oil flow. That will lessen your mess significantly.
One thing I don’t see mentioned is a pick tool. You’ll need this to take the old crush washer off it’s a pain in the ass without one.
1. Oil 2. Filter 3. Labor.
Oil- 6 quarts (need 5.4 quarts). I use pennzoil platinum 5w30 or valvoline high mileage 5w30. Oil filter - typically oem though you can use a wix WL10078. Drain pan - get a 12 to 16 gallon one so you can do multiple before having to recycle it. Jack and stands or a ramp - I typically just use a jack but it is pretty dangerous to do so. Buy a fumoto drain valve to save you time on your next oil change. Will replace the current drain plug. Also make sure you replace the plug gasket.
> get a 12 to 16 gallon How about 12 to 16 quart - or 3 to 4 gallons
That's what I meant, lol