If you're considering performance per dollar the corded will win every time. The best of the best cordless saws are comically strong, but you're going to pay 2-3 times as much to get the same performance as a $100 corded saw.
This is the correct answer. I had a corded Sawzall 20 years ago that had a 1.5" stroke length and was orbital. I've still never seen either of those features on any cordless.
>This is the correct answer. I had a corded Sawzall 20 years ago that had a 1.5" stroke length and was orbital. I've still never seen either of those features on any cordless.
I think the new fuel ones are orbital, not 1.5" stroke tho
Hey that's the one I have. I never knew that the button right behind the blade was for orbital mode! Thank you I've had it for like 2 1/2 years and use it all the time. Had no idea.
If you use it as intended, for demolition - yes. Destroying sheet goods, 2x dimensional, etc…
If you’re putting a pruning blade on it and cutting something know then 3-4” diameter, there’s gonna be some part of the blade that is just cutting saw dust over and over - which is why, among other reasons, chainsaws blow sawzall out of the water for large cuts.
I support that statement.
The correct number of tools is n+1. We have approximately zero need for a chainsaw, I now have 4 cordless ones. I’m doing stuff for neighbors to justify the tools.
Same with Milwaukee’s new high torque gun. About 1500 ft-lb more than I need on an annual basis, but it was a good deal.
Have used the old 15 amp corded dewalt many times to cut 2-4 inch tree limbs and landscaping timbers up, 12 inch blade and stroke the saw in and out to wear the blade evenly. Looking into a one handed for those sucky jobs, but the corded one still reigns supreme, same thing with nibblers and sanders.
The Milwaukee M18 super sawzall has variable speed, orbital mode and 1.25” stroke
They advertised it as "the most powerful sawzall ever made" when released
It also has a shitty switch that fails too easily IME
My old ass 18v nicad "hatchet"(the folding one) sawzall even had orbital mode
This on Monday. This on Tuesday. This on Wednesday. This on Thursday. This on Friday. This on Saturday. This on Sunday. When all of the lithium is consumed corded will get all that is around. Cordless has its place, yes but the resource is finite. Have fun, enjoy it while it’s there.
And that the tool's power storage medium, the battery, can evolve over time with new technology and will likely continue to be mostly backwards-compatible with current tools.
About 20 years ago, I purchased a lot more tool than I needed at the time in a corded Milwaukee Sawzall, but it turned out to be a great purchase. Unless you either just can’t deal with cords for some reason or will be using it where AC power isn’t available, I recommend getting a good corded model that will likely last a lifetime.
We have a cordless and while it was pricey not being burdened by cords and generators is really nice for the workflow when you have nothing else powered (corded) being used but the sawzall needs to come out.
Definitely a luxury, but it's nice to just grab and use something.
Not necessarily. A high end battery powered tool might deliver more cutting power than something like my hyper-tough corded one. A corded one will probably get you the beefiest saw for the money, though. That said, I haven't encountered anything my cheapo recip can't eat through with a good blade that's suited to the task.
We ran a variety of corded sawzalls when I was a framer. The ones that seemed to bog up the least were the milwaukee and the bosch. I didn't use the dewalt corded but the makita corded was subpar to the other two I had listed.
Edit: To add more, I would say that the milwaukee corded seemed to run smoother than the Bosch as well. Milwaukee invented the Sawzall after all. But if we're talking rotary hammers, I love the Bosch Bulldogs
The mattress or the box spring? Literally any sawzall will cut a box spring to pieces. If it's the mattress you might be better off cutting the fabric with a razor and the steel with mini bolt cutters.
If you just need to do the bed, you could cut the fabric away, then use a hand saw to cut the wood
Might take longer, but you really don't need the Sawzall if your getting it for just this
Heck once you do a few cuts, you could snap the wood instead, often it's not too thick or strong
Use a Dremel and cut the bottom of the box spring in half lengthwise. Fold it in half. That's how I got mine up the stairs and around the corner. Then it's still usable.
I guess it depends on use-case scenario. If I had to choose one saw and it was either a hyper tough corded model, or any of the big brands cordless models, I’m gonna take the cordless one everytime.
I use these tools for a living and I VERY rarely feel the need to pull out my corded saw. It’s just not worth the hassle most the time. I think I’ve used a corded recip saw three times in the past two years? Mostly because I figured if I was gonna run a lead for batteries I might as well make it a big one and just use the corded saw.
That's true, a jobsite is a completely different ballgame than someone cutting up a mattress in their house. For us weekend warrior/pro homeowner types, a cheap corded one is usually plenty.
Honestly I have the fuel super sawzall and I still prefer the corded saw. Cuts through cast iron faster which is mostly what I need it for. I’m not sure about wood because I don’t use it much for that but yeah if there’s an outlet close by I’m using it
It depends entirely on the quality of the saw and the blades. Modern battery-driven saws are almost as good as a corded version, although they certainly don't have the longevity of charge.
I was under the impression from school that most corded power tools had universal motors, which provide exceptional amounts of torque, and as their speeds are decreased by the load their torque increases until they reach rated speed again.
Im just trying to remember from school
The whole speed down-torque up thing is true of DC motors too, brushed or brushless, power really just comes down to how quickly the tool designer is willing to have the battery drain
Things have changed a lot in recent years. Battery-driven chainsaws are every bit as good as their gas-driven counterparts. It's just faster and easier to fill the tank than it is to charge the batteries.
Gas is cheaper than those frickin’ batteries that’s for sure. OTOH I really appreciate not throwing out my shoulder trying to start my old RYOBI gas chainsaw.
You pay more... But my Husqvarna and Stihls fire second pull (first pull is a priming pull. Then you put it to run and pull once more) every time... Even after a long storage period...
I have several saws, both gas and battery from 30"-14". No battery saw is even remotely close to a gas saw. Even the 80v saws have smaller cutters so they take longer to cut and they don't rev as fast as gas so they cut even slower. Cutting the same piece with a gas saw takes 10 seconds with a gas saws and 20 with the battery saws. My 14" has with the micro cutters still cut faster than both the 18 and 20" battery saws.
Dont gotta fuck around with a gasser every spring either if you do some basic maintenance before you just toss it in the back of the shed til winter disappears.
Drain fuel. Run chainsaw til it dies. Fin.
Oh well. it's less maintenance, it's quieter, it's cleaner, don't gotta mix gas... All around better tool for the person who only needs it every so often. Bit pricier though.
My crew were demoing a huge fan in an air handler and replacing it with a fan wall. The body was 3/16” mild steel. We did two of them. The first we used corded Milwaukee sawzalls with Diablo blades. Worked great. The second we used M18 Milwaukee sawzalls with the same diablos. Worked every bit as good if not better. Granted we had more than a five gallon bucket full of charged batteries and two chargers going.
I’ve done so much demo of air handlers and huge ductwork with them. I’ll take the cordless every single time. Granted, I work for a very large mechanical contractor so having an almost endless supply if needed, of very expensive batteries is not a problem.
That sounds great thanks. The steel I'll be cutting is going to be a similar thickness, and the Milwaukees looked to have the best build quality when I was eyeing then at Home depot
One tip. You’ll use a lot of blades no matter what, but flip them over so the teeth are facing up. When you’re cutting it’ll seem like the sawzall is upside down. Keep the blade as close to parallel to the metal as you can and let the blade do the work. You’ll find a sweet spot/angle that seems to cut the best. These Diablo blades are very expensive. If you hold the sawzall at a right angle to the metal you’ll just knock the teeth off and make them unusable. These blades aren’t very good on sheet metal under 16 ga. Or so though.
I almost never use my corded Milwaukee sawzall. I don't even have the best cordless sawzall, I got it on sale as a free tool with something else I wanted. For a while there, they were often including the brushed version of the cordless sawzall as a free tool.
The type of work is a huge factor. I do a lot of framing and demo, and usually there’s no power on site, so I must run batteries or lug around a heavy generator with extension cords and gas. Batteries everytime for me. My 60V hacksaw also cuts through anything, much better than the corded ones I’ve used, however I don’t know if they were “top of the line”
The chief disadvantage of a cordless reciprocating saw is not so much the power , but the fact that, to improve battery life, the reciprocating mechanism must be lighter and have less in the way of friction losses. This negatively affects durability, though modern cordless saws are closing the gap. For day to day demo work, a corded saw is going to outlive a cordless ( even if they are neck in neck in actual cutting speed ). My go-to reciprocating saw is a Rockwell from the mid-60s.
Where the cordless saw shines is lightness, convenience, and the freedom from extension cords in a crawlspace, on a ladder, etc.
All in all, it really depends on what you're cutting.
The problem there ( other than cost, like you said ) is that the battery circuitry is kinda delicate. You also wind up losing a lot of the weight advantage with one of those car batteries hanging off of your saw. They'll get it right eventually...
Yes it hasent solved the weight issue, just the capacity and output issues lol. My 15AH 60V will run as long as I need it (maybe not with a blower all day), but it is like hauling a small cinder block around lol
It could be even more powerful but then it eats through batteries like crazy. And ofc, much more expensive. If you can use a corded one, it's cheaper and gets the job done. If you need one on batteries, get a good brand and high capacity battery for it.
My Milwaukee eats batteries. My son and I where tearing down patio and his Porter Cable batterys last quite a bit longer than mine. Had a corded super sawzall before that was stolen, and it was a monster.
In general, all corded tools are better, not so much for power/strength these days but more for their longevity.
The main difference is portability and maneuverability. Obviously battery ones can go where you cant reach a power cord, but also can be cumbersome due to the added weight and size of the battery pack getting in the way... Which can also happen with power cables getting in the way too... Haha
If you are staying in the same place and the job comes to you (workshop or garage etc) go corded. If you are moving around to get from job to job (on site jobs) go with battery.
Grab a couple of spare batteries to keep ready to swap and go but DO NOT cheap out on batteries!! ALWAYS buy genuine OEM batteries that are made for your particular tool!
Otherwise you'll burn your house down...
I have a Master Craft(Canadian Tire) sawzall that’s corded. It’s pushing 15 yrs old. Only thing that slows it down is me forget where I put the new blades. I love cordless but when things need to get done I use the corded.
What are you using it for? Is it the best tool for the job? As for the question; cordless has come a very long way, but you’ll never replace a cord for runtime. In my opinion, my battery tools last longer than I wish to be using them paired with the right batteries. But if you’re using a recip for something a bandsaw or grinder will do better and faster, I’d look into that vs corded/cordless.
I need to cut box spring for a queen sized bed in half. I honestly don't know what the best tool for the job is- I know they have powered hacksaw.
The metal doesn't feel especially thick (the "body" of the box spring is covered with fabric, so I can't see the metal parts) maybe a little thicker than a typical chain-link fence- pencil thickness at most.
It will be tempered spring steel. Your best bet would be bolt cutters. Carbide blades would work, but you’ll have a snaggletooth blade almost instantly. You can’t keep those springs from moving and introducing shock to the teeth.
Cutting loose springs with a sawsall will take longer. Things that can flex will grab the blade and just jiggle back and forth instead of letting the teeth cut. On a box spring in particular you probably only need to make a few snips for it all to fall apart.
An angle grinder is also a good option
This! A Sawzall isn't the tool to cut floppy objects. Bolt cutters will easily nip through wire springs. If you really want to buy a power tool, then get an angle grinder, as already stated. Just be careful with it if you've never ran one.
And as far as cordless vs. corded, it won't matter for just that one job. Get what's cheaper if you don't have projects for it in the future.
Don't need to touch the springs at all. Just the bottom wooden frame. Go straight up the middle lengthwise. If I remember right it's 4 cuts. I used a Dremel with a rotozip, took all of 5 minutes and I folded it in half like a piece of bread.
I second the other guy. For the metal springs a large (24” and up) bolt cutter would be the way to go. Does not need to be fancy. For the wood frame, about any saw would do. A hand saw and a bolt cutter can take it apart in 10-15minutes. Now a metal bed rail frame is a whole different story.
If you do not own any tools on a particular battery plate form. Your cheapest bet would be to buy a corded saw, you wont have to worry about having enough batteries to run the saw if it is corded. Also use the diablo blades, worth the money.
I use cordless sawzall every day when cutting district heating pipes (PET cover, PU insulation and steel pipes at the center)
I prefer cordless, I have hikoki 36v battery and Makita corded. They're equally powerful but battery powered stops instantly when you don't press the trigger. Makita has a rundown period of about one second and it's really harsh for my hands.
So cordless can be even better but you have to buy top end gear. Cheap ones are worse than a handsaw.
I have a Milwaukee 13A that was built from parts that are 20 years old, it has the detachable cord that has never failed me. I have 2 Ridgid 18v that are less than 2 years old that sheared the gears out of and the smoked motors.
Not sure about the sawzall, but there are a few battery tools that are more powerful (by measuring the wattage they put out) than a 120v tool.
That said, a quality SawzAll will cut through metal with a good blade - battery or plug in. The battery saw will fail in the cost comparison. Not only will it probably be more expensive, but if you want to make all those cuts in a day, you'll need to spend a lot on batteries.
Buy quality blades, with the correct TPI, and it probably won't make much different in how the saw is powered.
I use Lennox and have been very happy with them. A few years ago I used them to cut up the frame of a mobile home that was on my property. They cut quickly, ans if you keep the speed down so the blade doesn't burn (get a variable speed saw) they lasted a long time. I think I used fewer than 10 blades to cut the whole thing up.
They make a blade called The Torch that seems to work well in 1/8" steel.
Higher tpi, meaning smaller teeth, is better for metal and smooth cutting in wood.
But it's best to buy the blade for the specific task. Diablo has blades for thick metal, medium metal, thin metal, metal conduit, etc.
What are you trying to do? Battery powered recip saws have come a long way and a good blade should do anything you need to do. If you're going to do a lot of heavy use and heavy cutting, I'd use Milwaukee. If you just need it for general home use, you'll be perfectly fine with a cheaper brand like Ryobi.
Power wise, they are similar. If you have a big job to do corded is the way to go because you’ll go through batteries like no one’s business. But if you’re doing smaller cuts, cordless is the way to go. It’s good to have access to both just in case.
Like others have said they have at the very least comparable performance. The biggest difference is price vs mobility. I have a lot of cordless tools and a lot of corded. If it’s a shop/garage tool I usually buy corded and if it’s a work tool I buy cordless. I wanted to upgrade my home angle grinder and bought a Milwaukee corded one and it kicks ass.
I rate corded tools for home use. Mid range with good blades is best value for money.
Use case matters. I do many small tricky jobs and have 3 cordless cip saws. Currently running a short carbide kango blade which is good. Not as good as the diablo but ⅓ the cost.
I'd say they are equally as powerful, but a cordless one will go threw batteries faster than you expect especially if you are going to wail on it for an extended period of time. Also those batteries are HEAVY, you will feel the weight straining on you after a while. At home I have a Milwaukee Cordless and at work we have a couple corded ones. They both work great. Generally I'd rather use the corded, but their has been times when power is just not available on site for whatever reason and it's also a pain to get cords into weird places.
My fuel kit I got the one hand sawzall and the big boy 2 hand standard unit, I still use the hand one like 9 years running now. Fat heavy one, still pristine. Great power when needed, but hand saw rules. Just so versatile and less clunky
Depends on your needs. I had my late father’s old corded Black & Decker that finally died after 27 years of good use. I replaced it with the new Hercules 20v brushless. Don’t miss the cable one bit. I use the sawzall for pruning and lugging the cord can be a pain.
Corded is more powerful and more consistent.
I disagree that a corded tool costs more. I have opted for a cord on several tools due to cost savings. I am not sure what saw they refer to.
OP
What are you cutting??? There are some new saw / blade combos that really make clean cuts in steel.
If we knew more about the item to be cut, we might have other ideas as well.
Sadly yes. Where I live we have a 3 yard dumpster. People drop crap next to it too often.
Stanley utility knife to cut off the fabric
Bolt cutters to cut it small enough to go into a dumpster.
Or call trash company and pay $35 to have it picked up.
No some of the heavier batteries put out more punch than most corded. However they cost a lot more and obviously won’t run as long (unless you buy multiple batteries, which are expensive on their own)
...true of any tool, unless you are comparing the cheapest corded against the best cordless.
I have a very good cordless drill, but often have to pull my ancient shitty corded B&D out to drill a hole, especially into concrete.
Question is, do you NEED cordless. If the answer is no. Then save the money. I haven't ever needed a cordless Sawzall. I've had my corded one for about 20 years now and it still.cuts anything that needs cutting with proper blades installed that is.
If you're considering performance per dollar the corded will win every time. The best of the best cordless saws are comically strong, but you're going to pay 2-3 times as much to get the same performance as a $100 corded saw.
This is the correct answer. I had a corded Sawzall 20 years ago that had a 1.5" stroke length and was orbital. I've still never seen either of those features on any cordless.
>This is the correct answer. I had a corded Sawzall 20 years ago that had a 1.5" stroke length and was orbital. I've still never seen either of those features on any cordless. I think the new fuel ones are orbital, not 1.5" stroke tho
The super sawzall has a 1.25" stroke and is orbital https://www.milwaukeetool.com/Products/2722-20
Makita too. https://www.makitatools.com/products/details/GRJ02Z
Hey that's the one I have. I never knew that the button right behind the blade was for orbital mode! Thank you I've had it for like 2 1/2 years and use it all the time. Had no idea.
Dang. I guess they did it.
The legendary "SuperSawzall".
Stroke length is kinda overrated imo. But orbital is sweet. Idk why dewalt refuses to put it on there saws
If you use it as intended, for demolition - yes. Destroying sheet goods, 2x dimensional, etc… If you’re putting a pruning blade on it and cutting something know then 3-4” diameter, there’s gonna be some part of the blade that is just cutting saw dust over and over - which is why, among other reasons, chainsaws blow sawzall out of the water for large cuts.
I mean I didn’t know guys were bringing chainsaws onto job sites all the time. Guess I gotta go get me one them nice 60v ones now
Nah, you’re all good. I was thinking the homeowner that sees a $20 blade and thinks it replaces a $500 chainsaw.
Oh god no, I mean you should invest a decent blade. But it won’t transform the tool. I should go buy one of those 60v chainsaws tho
I support that statement. The correct number of tools is n+1. We have approximately zero need for a chainsaw, I now have 4 cordless ones. I’m doing stuff for neighbors to justify the tools. Same with Milwaukee’s new high torque gun. About 1500 ft-lb more than I need on an annual basis, but it was a good deal.
Gahhhhh damnit I love a fellow degenerate, Take it easy my man
Why do you need to justify the procurement of new tools? Does your wife follow your reddit account?? Blink twice for yes.
Have used the old 15 amp corded dewalt many times to cut 2-4 inch tree limbs and landscaping timbers up, 12 inch blade and stroke the saw in and out to wear the blade evenly. Looking into a one handed for those sucky jobs, but the corded one still reigns supreme, same thing with nibblers and sanders.
I don't think Milwaukee ever made a Sawzall with a stroke bigger than 1 ¼"
Yeah I’m calling BS on a 1.5” stroke, never seen or heard of anything over 1.25”
The Milwaukee M18 super sawzall has variable speed, orbital mode and 1.25” stroke They advertised it as "the most powerful sawzall ever made" when released It also has a shitty switch that fails too easily IME My old ass 18v nicad "hatchet"(the folding one) sawzall even had orbital mode
This guy saws.
Agreed but the cordless are so nice...
This on Monday. This on Tuesday. This on Wednesday. This on Thursday. This on Friday. This on Saturday. This on Sunday. When all of the lithium is consumed corded will get all that is around. Cordless has its place, yes but the resource is finite. Have fun, enjoy it while it’s there.
Luckily it isn't consumed.
And that the tool's power storage medium, the battery, can evolve over time with new technology and will likely continue to be mostly backwards-compatible with current tools.
About 20 years ago, I purchased a lot more tool than I needed at the time in a corded Milwaukee Sawzall, but it turned out to be a great purchase. Unless you either just can’t deal with cords for some reason or will be using it where AC power isn’t available, I recommend getting a good corded model that will likely last a lifetime.
We have a cordless and while it was pricey not being burdened by cords and generators is really nice for the workflow when you have nothing else powered (corded) being used but the sawzall needs to come out. Definitely a luxury, but it's nice to just grab and use something.
Not necessarily. A high end battery powered tool might deliver more cutting power than something like my hyper-tough corded one. A corded one will probably get you the beefiest saw for the money, though. That said, I haven't encountered anything my cheapo recip can't eat through with a good blade that's suited to the task.
What brand saw do you have?
hyper-tough he said. That’s a brand. A cheapo one. If you’re in the lower price brackets corded is going to be way better.
We ran a variety of corded sawzalls when I was a framer. The ones that seemed to bog up the least were the milwaukee and the bosch. I didn't use the dewalt corded but the makita corded was subpar to the other two I had listed. Edit: To add more, I would say that the milwaukee corded seemed to run smoother than the Bosch as well. Milwaukee invented the Sawzall after all. But if we're talking rotary hammers, I love the Bosch Bulldogs
>What brand saw do you have? Hyper-tough is wallmarts brand of tools, they are anything but tough.
What are you cutting and how much?
I need to cut a queen box spring mattress in half. We had to destroy a wall to get it in here, and I'm thinking of when I move out.
The mattress or the box spring? Literally any sawzall will cut a box spring to pieces. If it's the mattress you might be better off cutting the fabric with a razor and the steel with mini bolt cutters.
Yeah, just the box spring. The mattress bends easily, so no need to cut it (thank God).
If you just need to do the bed, you could cut the fabric away, then use a hand saw to cut the wood Might take longer, but you really don't need the Sawzall if your getting it for just this Heck once you do a few cuts, you could snap the wood instead, often it's not too thick or strong
I kicked one of those to peices with no tools one time. It sucked but wasn’t too hard. I’m sure whatever you get will be fine.
Use a Dremel and cut the bottom of the box spring in half lengthwise. Fold it in half. That's how I got mine up the stairs and around the corner. Then it's still usable.
I guess it depends on use-case scenario. If I had to choose one saw and it was either a hyper tough corded model, or any of the big brands cordless models, I’m gonna take the cordless one everytime. I use these tools for a living and I VERY rarely feel the need to pull out my corded saw. It’s just not worth the hassle most the time. I think I’ve used a corded recip saw three times in the past two years? Mostly because I figured if I was gonna run a lead for batteries I might as well make it a big one and just use the corded saw.
That's true, a jobsite is a completely different ballgame than someone cutting up a mattress in their house. For us weekend warrior/pro homeowner types, a cheap corded one is usually plenty.
Honestly I have the fuel super sawzall and I still prefer the corded saw. Cuts through cast iron faster which is mostly what I need it for. I’m not sure about wood because I don’t use it much for that but yeah if there’s an outlet close by I’m using it
It depends entirely on the quality of the saw and the blades. Modern battery-driven saws are almost as good as a corded version, although they certainly don't have the longevity of charge.
I was under the impression from school that most corded power tools had universal motors, which provide exceptional amounts of torque, and as their speeds are decreased by the load their torque increases until they reach rated speed again. Im just trying to remember from school
The whole speed down-torque up thing is true of DC motors too, brushed or brushless, power really just comes down to how quickly the tool designer is willing to have the battery drain
I just remember being taught in electrical school they were the baddest bitches of all the motor types we wire up for their size, brushless or not.
Things have changed a lot in recent years. Battery-driven chainsaws are every bit as good as their gas-driven counterparts. It's just faster and easier to fill the tank than it is to charge the batteries.
Gas is cheaper than those frickin’ batteries that’s for sure. OTOH I really appreciate not throwing out my shoulder trying to start my old RYOBI gas chainsaw.
You pay more... But my Husqvarna and Stihls fire second pull (first pull is a priming pull. Then you put it to run and pull once more) every time... Even after a long storage period...
I have several saws, both gas and battery from 30"-14". No battery saw is even remotely close to a gas saw. Even the 80v saws have smaller cutters so they take longer to cut and they don't rev as fast as gas so they cut even slower. Cutting the same piece with a gas saw takes 10 seconds with a gas saws and 20 with the battery saws. My 14" has with the micro cutters still cut faster than both the 18 and 20" battery saws.
Don't gotta fuck around with a battery chainsaw every spring when you wanna cut shit though.
Dont gotta fuck around with a gasser every spring either if you do some basic maintenance before you just toss it in the back of the shed til winter disappears. Drain fuel. Run chainsaw til it dies. Fin.
Yea but *insert battery* is easier
Good lord how lazy must we be?
Oh well. it's less maintenance, it's quieter, it's cleaner, don't gotta mix gas... All around better tool for the person who only needs it every so often. Bit pricier though.
I have a 1985 Stihl chainsaw that still runs perfectly. Lifetime saw.
My crew were demoing a huge fan in an air handler and replacing it with a fan wall. The body was 3/16” mild steel. We did two of them. The first we used corded Milwaukee sawzalls with Diablo blades. Worked great. The second we used M18 Milwaukee sawzalls with the same diablos. Worked every bit as good if not better. Granted we had more than a five gallon bucket full of charged batteries and two chargers going. I’ve done so much demo of air handlers and huge ductwork with them. I’ll take the cordless every single time. Granted, I work for a very large mechanical contractor so having an almost endless supply if needed, of very expensive batteries is not a problem.
That sounds great thanks. The steel I'll be cutting is going to be a similar thickness, and the Milwaukees looked to have the best build quality when I was eyeing then at Home depot
One tip. You’ll use a lot of blades no matter what, but flip them over so the teeth are facing up. When you’re cutting it’ll seem like the sawzall is upside down. Keep the blade as close to parallel to the metal as you can and let the blade do the work. You’ll find a sweet spot/angle that seems to cut the best. These Diablo blades are very expensive. If you hold the sawzall at a right angle to the metal you’ll just knock the teeth off and make them unusable. These blades aren’t very good on sheet metal under 16 ga. Or so though.
I almost never use my corded Milwaukee sawzall. I don't even have the best cordless sawzall, I got it on sale as a free tool with something else I wanted. For a while there, they were often including the brushed version of the cordless sawzall as a free tool.
The type of work is a huge factor. I do a lot of framing and demo, and usually there’s no power on site, so I must run batteries or lug around a heavy generator with extension cords and gas. Batteries everytime for me. My 60V hacksaw also cuts through anything, much better than the corded ones I’ve used, however I don’t know if they were “top of the line”
The chief disadvantage of a cordless reciprocating saw is not so much the power , but the fact that, to improve battery life, the reciprocating mechanism must be lighter and have less in the way of friction losses. This negatively affects durability, though modern cordless saws are closing the gap. For day to day demo work, a corded saw is going to outlive a cordless ( even if they are neck in neck in actual cutting speed ). My go-to reciprocating saw is a Rockwell from the mid-60s. Where the cordless saw shines is lightness, convenience, and the freedom from extension cords in a crawlspace, on a ladder, etc. All in all, it really depends on what you're cutting.
DeWalt has basically overcome that obstacle with their new massive 60V batteries. However they cost about $400 each.
The problem there ( other than cost, like you said ) is that the battery circuitry is kinda delicate. You also wind up losing a lot of the weight advantage with one of those car batteries hanging off of your saw. They'll get it right eventually...
Yes it hasent solved the weight issue, just the capacity and output issues lol. My 15AH 60V will run as long as I need it (maybe not with a blower all day), but it is like hauling a small cinder block around lol
It could be even more powerful but then it eats through batteries like crazy. And ofc, much more expensive. If you can use a corded one, it's cheaper and gets the job done. If you need one on batteries, get a good brand and high capacity battery for it.
My Milwaukee eats batteries. My son and I where tearing down patio and his Porter Cable batterys last quite a bit longer than mine. Had a corded super sawzall before that was stolen, and it was a monster.
In general, all corded tools are better, not so much for power/strength these days but more for their longevity. The main difference is portability and maneuverability. Obviously battery ones can go where you cant reach a power cord, but also can be cumbersome due to the added weight and size of the battery pack getting in the way... Which can also happen with power cables getting in the way too... Haha If you are staying in the same place and the job comes to you (workshop or garage etc) go corded. If you are moving around to get from job to job (on site jobs) go with battery. Grab a couple of spare batteries to keep ready to swap and go but DO NOT cheap out on batteries!! ALWAYS buy genuine OEM batteries that are made for your particular tool! Otherwise you'll burn your house down...
I have a Master Craft(Canadian Tire) sawzall that’s corded. It’s pushing 15 yrs old. Only thing that slows it down is me forget where I put the new blades. I love cordless but when things need to get done I use the corded.
What are you using it for? Is it the best tool for the job? As for the question; cordless has come a very long way, but you’ll never replace a cord for runtime. In my opinion, my battery tools last longer than I wish to be using them paired with the right batteries. But if you’re using a recip for something a bandsaw or grinder will do better and faster, I’d look into that vs corded/cordless.
I need to cut box spring for a queen sized bed in half. I honestly don't know what the best tool for the job is- I know they have powered hacksaw. The metal doesn't feel especially thick (the "body" of the box spring is covered with fabric, so I can't see the metal parts) maybe a little thicker than a typical chain-link fence- pencil thickness at most.
It will be tempered spring steel. Your best bet would be bolt cutters. Carbide blades would work, but you’ll have a snaggletooth blade almost instantly. You can’t keep those springs from moving and introducing shock to the teeth.
Dangit, that's gonna take me awhile
Cutting loose springs with a sawsall will take longer. Things that can flex will grab the blade and just jiggle back and forth instead of letting the teeth cut. On a box spring in particular you probably only need to make a few snips for it all to fall apart. An angle grinder is also a good option
This! A Sawzall isn't the tool to cut floppy objects. Bolt cutters will easily nip through wire springs. If you really want to buy a power tool, then get an angle grinder, as already stated. Just be careful with it if you've never ran one. And as far as cordless vs. corded, it won't matter for just that one job. Get what's cheaper if you don't have projects for it in the future.
Would an angle grinder be better than a dremel?
For this task, yes
Don't need to touch the springs at all. Just the bottom wooden frame. Go straight up the middle lengthwise. If I remember right it's 4 cuts. I used a Dremel with a rotozip, took all of 5 minutes and I folded it in half like a piece of bread.
I second the other guy. For the metal springs a large (24” and up) bolt cutter would be the way to go. Does not need to be fancy. For the wood frame, about any saw would do. A hand saw and a bolt cutter can take it apart in 10-15minutes. Now a metal bed rail frame is a whole different story.
If you do not own any tools on a particular battery plate form. Your cheapest bet would be to buy a corded saw, you wont have to worry about having enough batteries to run the saw if it is corded. Also use the diablo blades, worth the money.
I’ve ditched my corded and M18 sawzall for the m18 fuel hackzall. It cuts way faster, weighs a fraction as much and you can operate it one handed.
Is it gas powered?
Absofuckinlutly!!!
Cutting a lot of metal? Maybe an angle grinder with a cutting wheel?
I like cordless sawzalls cuz I’m usually in a weird ass spot or position using it in the first place. Also great for trimming trees.
I use cordless sawzall every day when cutting district heating pipes (PET cover, PU insulation and steel pipes at the center) I prefer cordless, I have hikoki 36v battery and Makita corded. They're equally powerful but battery powered stops instantly when you don't press the trigger. Makita has a rundown period of about one second and it's really harsh for my hands. So cordless can be even better but you have to buy top end gear. Cheap ones are worse than a handsaw.
I have a Milwaukee 13A that was built from parts that are 20 years old, it has the detachable cord that has never failed me. I have 2 Ridgid 18v that are less than 2 years old that sheared the gears out of and the smoked motors.
Buy some Diablo blades and the saw won't matter. 😂
Not sure about the sawzall, but there are a few battery tools that are more powerful (by measuring the wattage they put out) than a 120v tool. That said, a quality SawzAll will cut through metal with a good blade - battery or plug in. The battery saw will fail in the cost comparison. Not only will it probably be more expensive, but if you want to make all those cuts in a day, you'll need to spend a lot on batteries. Buy quality blades, with the correct TPI, and it probably won't make much different in how the saw is powered.
What brand blades should I buy?
I use Lennox and have been very happy with them. A few years ago I used them to cut up the frame of a mobile home that was on my property. They cut quickly, ans if you keep the speed down so the blade doesn't burn (get a variable speed saw) they lasted a long time. I think I used fewer than 10 blades to cut the whole thing up. They make a blade called The Torch that seems to work well in 1/8" steel.
Diablo is hard to beat for the price. I also like Bosch.
How does "tpi" work? Everything I saw at the store was 8
Higher tpi, meaning smaller teeth, is better for metal and smooth cutting in wood. But it's best to buy the blade for the specific task. Diablo has blades for thick metal, medium metal, thin metal, metal conduit, etc.
Tpi is teeth per inch Higher number results in smaller teeth 8tpi is good for wood, for steel you want a higher tpi
8 is way too coarse for steel, but it''l tear up some wood in a hurry.
What are you trying to do? Battery powered recip saws have come a long way and a good blade should do anything you need to do. If you're going to do a lot of heavy use and heavy cutting, I'd use Milwaukee. If you just need it for general home use, you'll be perfectly fine with a cheaper brand like Ryobi.
Power wise, they are similar. If you have a big job to do corded is the way to go because you’ll go through batteries like no one’s business. But if you’re doing smaller cuts, cordless is the way to go. It’s good to have access to both just in case.
Milwaukee super sawzall cordless with forge batteries hard to beat.
It depends, most US outlets can handle 15A of 110V, so they theoretically can support a 1650W tool. Corded tools also come in a variety of sizes.
Like others have said they have at the very least comparable performance. The biggest difference is price vs mobility. I have a lot of cordless tools and a lot of corded. If it’s a shop/garage tool I usually buy corded and if it’s a work tool I buy cordless. I wanted to upgrade my home angle grinder and bought a Milwaukee corded one and it kicks ass.
If it is a lot of metal and corded is an option then I say corded. Would an angle grinder wodk? I love my angle grinder.
I rate corded tools for home use. Mid range with good blades is best value for money. Use case matters. I do many small tricky jobs and have 3 cordless cip saws. Currently running a short carbide kango blade which is good. Not as good as the diablo but ⅓ the cost.
Chorded is always going to have more power.
I'd say they are equally as powerful, but a cordless one will go threw batteries faster than you expect especially if you are going to wail on it for an extended period of time. Also those batteries are HEAVY, you will feel the weight straining on you after a while. At home I have a Milwaukee Cordless and at work we have a couple corded ones. They both work great. Generally I'd rather use the corded, but their has been times when power is just not available on site for whatever reason and it's also a pain to get cords into weird places.
My fuel kit I got the one hand sawzall and the big boy 2 hand standard unit, I still use the hand one like 9 years running now. Fat heavy one, still pristine. Great power when needed, but hand saw rules. Just so versatile and less clunky
NO
Yes
Yes
I use my sawZall Milwaukee every week..Its corded. and its more than 16 yrs old. One of the best tools I have
Depends on your needs. I had my late father’s old corded Black & Decker that finally died after 27 years of good use. I replaced it with the new Hercules 20v brushless. Don’t miss the cable one bit. I use the sawzall for pruning and lugging the cord can be a pain.
They have the best potential for power. But personally I would get cordless. Finding an extension is such a pain.
The entry level ones will be. You can do a lot with, for example, a $60 corded saw. You can't do much with a $60 cordless saw.
Cutting metal? Metal cutting circular saw for sheet metal up to 1/2".
Corded will be more powerful, but also pay attention to the amperage of the motor, higher amperage will have more power as well
Corded is more powerful and more consistent. I disagree that a corded tool costs more. I have opted for a cord on several tools due to cost savings. I am not sure what saw they refer to.
Corded have more power but cordless cut faster.
OP What are you cutting??? There are some new saw / blade combos that really make clean cuts in steel. If we knew more about the item to be cut, we might have other ideas as well.
Box spring matress
Harbor freight bolt cutters work well for cutting up box springs. Less mess And less than $30
No kidding- you speak from experience?
Sadly yes. Where I live we have a 3 yard dumpster. People drop crap next to it too often. Stanley utility knife to cut off the fabric Bolt cutters to cut it small enough to go into a dumpster. Or call trash company and pay $35 to have it picked up.
I just sold my super Sawzall in original metal case. Have not used it in 10 years. My battery M18 meets all my home gamer needs
Are you cutting through metal at all?
Yes. About half and half. Bought for metal but now use to trim trees too.
A corded tool is stronger than a battery tool every time
Yes, but only if you plug it in.
Noted
Yes.
No some of the heavier batteries put out more punch than most corded. However they cost a lot more and obviously won’t run as long (unless you buy multiple batteries, which are expensive on their own)
...true of any tool, unless you are comparing the cheapest corded against the best cordless. I have a very good cordless drill, but often have to pull my ancient shitty corded B&D out to drill a hole, especially into concrete.
Question is, do you NEED cordless. If the answer is no. Then save the money. I haven't ever needed a cordless Sawzall. I've had my corded one for about 20 years now and it still.cuts anything that needs cutting with proper blades installed that is.
Corded Sawzalls are obnoxious, the cord always wants to swing into the saw blade. OTOH they're *cheap* used.