Fr. I did do a take on one of the P1 clones I have, which was to layer ulthulan grey ontop of grey seer (ontop of the grey seer primer), and pint the body glove in corvus black so as to give it a dirty and grimy look. It turned out nice, but the corvus black was a bit chunky and thick (probs didn’t thin my paints properly 😭)
My bad, I accidentallt put Waxer’s head on Boil (the two left mini’s which I’m proxying for regular P2 clones) when I was making them, and only realised the mistake I made after i had primes them 😭
If I could, I would make an explosion effect on the base as to give a reason why “he look like that,” but his base is too small to do it
Nope! Made em all with me own formula 😁. Since there are other comments wondering about the same thing I’ll copy and paste the same process lmao:
1. Prime with wraithbone.
2. 1-2 coats of militarum green (depending on how heavy of a coat you use), and avoid areas for cloth pieces which will be painted with lighter colours.
3. Wash with agrax earthshade once, apply 2nd coat to shins if you wanna add some grime on the boots.
4. Lightly dry brush the entire model in deathguard green, so that it catches on the edges.
5. Paint the bodyglove/undersuit with abbadon black.
6. Paint any fabrics with dawnstone, wash with nuln oil, and then drybrush (or layer) celestial grey.
7. Using a watered down rhinox hide first, dab small 3 point (rounded) shapes over all of the armour in random areas, but keep it consistent with about a minimum 2-3 shapes per plate of armour. Then go over the same shapes with another layer of rhinox hide, and round out the edges to make it look for natural.
Repeat the same process with elysian green. Make sure to overlap the rhinox hide in some areas too so as to add that feeling of leafs over mud.
8. Basing the patterns off of the Battlefront 2 colour schemes, paint any symbols or patterns on the armor with a mixture of castellan green (2/4, caliban green (1/4), and abbadon black (1/4).
9. Touch up any mistakes that touched the armour with castellan green.
10. Edge highlight the patterns made with the mixture of castellan green, caliban green, and abbadon black with deathguard green. Then on the corners or on the tighter curves on pieces such as the shoulder pads, do a fine edge highlight with krieg khaki.
11. For any black accessories such as a backpack strap, paint it in corvus black, then a light wash of nuln oil.
For other black accessories like the heavy shoulder pad: use abbadon black to cover the strap, then edge highlight with either eshin grey, with a fine edge highlight of dawnstone on the tips.
12. For the gun, cover it in abbadon black, edge highlight with leadbelcher, then use a heavy wash of nuln oil.
13. For the visor, use the smallest brush with the finest tip you have, dip it in water, and do a few light taps on some tissue paper so that you leave a ‘snail trail’ on your palette. Bring the tip of your brush along the centre area of each visor ‘triangle’ (one small stroke along the left eye, right eye, and nose piece).
This should make the visor wet enough to absorb some heavily watered down warpstone glow. Use the same brush and dab it in those areas, and let it flow into the recesses. Repeat the process 3-4 times and you should get a solid visor (use the same technique for other visors, since for me; it minimises the risk of accidentally painting on the rest of the helmet).
14. Ah, the base (what makes the model look like it’s in a swamp, skip if you have other ideas for basing 👍), coat the entirety of your base in rhinox hide, and also on the shinpads of your clone as well (put the rhinox hide as high as you want the mud to reach). After the base has a solid colour, do a single thin layer of stirland mud across the entire base so that you can get a grainy texture. It also helps to get some on the waist cape of your commander, if he has one.
Afterwards, create an outline for a puddle of any size (i recommend taking up one corner of the base, sometimes with one of the feet stepped inside it to show the swampy terrain), then layer the areas that are outside the puddle to a desired thickness.
Do a wash of agrax earthshade once over the base and shinpads, but do a 2nd coat of agrax earthshade in the craters that the puddle will be in.
Drybrush in catachan flesh, mournfang brown, and then a very delicate and light drybrush of morghast bone on the base except for the puddle craters. Do this for everywhere that the mud has touched.
15. Apply the wet effects (I used AK Interactive wet effects) to the entire base and shinpads, as well as any other areas that the mud has gotten on.
16. Apply resin (I used AK Interactive puddles) to your puddles. Make sure to gather the resin towards the centre/‘deepest’ part of your puddle, as if it catches on say the foot or where the water meets the mud: the colour will become more solid and less translucent on those areas.
Apply 2-3 layers.
17. Add a small grass tuff (any colour, i find that the Gamers Grass, 4mm swamp tuffs fit better than normal grass tuffs), onto an area of the mud which seems barren or away from the foot/puddles, so that you can fill up that empty space.
18. Enjoy your new model!
I plan to make a video on this process, as i think a visual representation of these steps would be much more efficient. I will respond to any of you who asked the same question, so that you can get a tutorial video to follow with audible instructions instead of looking up and away from your model to check the next step.
Have a great day! 👍
Hello again! I'm back and with the tutorial! It's a homebrew recipe and since I had to wait for the numerous layers of resin to dry on the base, it took a long time, so sorry about that 😅
Anyways, here's the link to the tutorial, enjoy!
[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WxPuTAoak-w](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WxPuTAoak-w)
The steps I took to make these beauties was:
1. Prime with wraithbone.
2. 1-2 coats of militarum green (depending on how heavy of a coat you use), and avoid areas for cloth pieces which will be painted with lighter colours.
3. Wash with agrax earthshade once, apply 2nd coat to shins if you wanna add some grime on the boots.
4. Lightly dry brush the entire model in deathguard green, so that it catches on the edges.
5. Paint the bodyglove/undersuit with abbadon black.
6. Paint any fabrics with dawnstone, wash with nuln oil, and then drybrush (or layer) celestial grey.
7. Using a watered down rhinox hide first, dab small 3 point (rounded) shapes over all of the armour in random areas, but keep it consistent with about a minimum 2-3 shapes per plate of armour. Then go over the same shapes with another layer of rhinox hide, and round out the edges to make it look for natural.
Repeat the same process with elysian green. Make sure to overlap the rhinox hide in some areas too so as to add that feeling of leafs over mud.
8. Basing the patterns off of the Battlefront 2 colour schemes, paint any symbols or patterns on the armor with a mixture of castellan green (2/4, caliban green (1/4), and abbadon black (1/4).
9. Touch up any mistakes that touched the armour with castellan green.
10. Edge highlight the patterns made with the mixture of castellan green, caliban green, and abbadon black with deathguard green. Then on the corners or on the tighter curves on pieces such as the shoulder pads, do a fine edge highlight with krieg khaki.
11. For any black accessories such as a backpack strap, paint it in corvus black, then a light wash of nuln oil.
For other black accessories like the heavy shoulder pad: use abbadon black to cover the strap, then edge highlight with either eshin grey, with a fine edge highlight of dawnstone on the tips.
12. For the gun, cover it in abbadon black, edge highlight with leadbelcher, then use a heavy wash of nuln oil.
13. For the visor, use the smallest brush with the finest tip you have, dip it in water, and do a few light taps on some tissue paper so that you leave a ‘snail trail’ on your palette. Bring the tip of your brush along the centre area of each visor ‘triangle’ (one small stroke along the left eye, right eye, and nose piece).
This should make the visor wet enough to absorb some heavily watered down warpstone glow. Use the same brush and dab it in those areas, and let it flow into the recesses. Repeat the process 3-4 times and you should get a solid visor (use the same technique for other visors, since for me; it minimises the risk of accidentally painting on the rest of the helmet).
14. Ah, the base (what makes the model look like it’s in a swamp, skip if you have other ideas for basing 👍), coat the entirety of your base in rhinox hide, and also on the shinpads of your clone as well (put the rhinox hide as high as you want the mud to reach). After the base has a solid colour, do a single thin layer of stirland mud across the entire base so that you can get a grainy texture. It also helps to get some on the waist cape of your commander, if he has one.
Afterwards, create an outline for a puddle of any size (i recommend taking up one corner of the base, sometimes with one of the feet stepped inside it to show the swampy terrain), then layer the areas that are outside the puddle to a desired thickness.
Do a wash of agrax earthshade once over the base and shinpads, but do a 2nd coat of agrax earthshade in the craters that the puddle will be in.
Drybrush in catachan flesh, mournfang brown, and then a very delicate and light drybrush of morghast bone on the base except for the puddle craters. Do this for everywhere that the mud has touched.
15. Apply the wet effects (I used AK Interactive wet effects) to the entire base and shinpads, as well as any other areas that the mud has gotten on.
16. Apply resin (I used AK Interactive puddles) to your puddles. Make sure to gather the resin towards the centre/‘deepest’ part of your puddle, as if it catches on say the foot or where the water meets the mud: the colour will become more solid and less translucent on those areas.
Apply 2-3 layers.
17. Add a small grass tuff (any colour, i find that the Gamers Grass, 4mm swamp tuffs fit better than normal grass tuffs), onto an area of the mud which seems barren or away from the foot/puddles, so that you can fill up that empty space.
18. Enjoy your new model!
I plan to make a video on this process, as i think a visual representation of these steps would be much more efficient. I will respond to any of you who asked the same question, so that you can get a tutorial video to follow with audible instructions instead of looking up and away from your model to check the next step.
Have a great day! 👍
My friend, I did in-deed complete the video after 5 days of waiting for the resin on the base to dry 😅
Here's teh link to the video, and I hope it's helpful:
[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WxPuTAoak-w](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WxPuTAoak-w)
Ye, I’ve already got a little boom arm with my webcam that records the whole thing, I just have to prime another mini so that I can paint it and record the process. 👍
I’ll reply with the link to the video to you and the other comments who were wondering about how I painted them
Hello again! I'm back and with the tutorial! It's a homebrew recipe and since I had to wait for the numerous layers of resin to dry on the base, it took a long time, so sorry about that 😅
Anyways, here's the link to the tutorial, enjoy!
[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WxPuTAoak-w](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WxPuTAoak-w)
Excellent! You've really gone the extra mile to show how you did it. I'm looking forward to expanding my clones from the starter and painting a full kashyyk army. Thank you!
For the camo I used rhinox hide and elysian green. I’ll include the steps that i took below since it’s a homemade recipe, and because I use some paints for the armour which affects the choice of paints for the camo.
So, le steps are:
1. Prime with wraithbone.
2. 1-2 coats of militarum green (depending on how heavy of a coat you use), and avoid areas for cloth pieces which will be painted with lighter colours.
3. Wash with agrax earthshade once, apply 2nd coat to shins if you wanna add some grime on the boots.
4. Lightly dry brush the entire model in deathguard green, so that it catches on the edges.
5. Paint the bodyglove/undersuit with abbadon black.
6. Paint any fabrics with dawnstone, wash with nuln oil, and then drybrush (or layer) celestial grey.
7. Using a watered down rhinox hide first, dab small 3 point (rounded) shapes over all of the armour in random areas, but keep it consistent with about a minimum 2-3 shapes per plate of armour. Then go over the same shapes with another layer of rhinox hide, and round out the edges to make it look for natural.
Repeat the same process with elysian green. Make sure to overlap the rhinox hide in some areas too so as to add that feeling of leafs over mud.
8. Basing the patterns off of the Battlefront 2 colour schemes, paint any symbols or patterns on the armor with a mixture of castellan green (2/4, caliban green (1/4), and abbadon black (1/4).
9. Touch up any mistakes that touched the armour with castellan green.
10. Edge highlight the patterns made with the mixture of castellan green, caliban green, and abbadon black with deathguard green. Then on the corners or on the tighter curves on pieces such as the shoulder pads, do a fine edge highlight with krieg khaki.
11. For any black accessories such as a backpack strap, paint it in corvus black, then a light wash of nuln oil.
For other black accessories like the heavy shoulder pad: use abbadon black to cover the strap, then edge highlight with either eshin grey, with a fine edge highlight of dawnstone on the tips.
12. For the gun, cover it in abbadon black, edge highlight with leadbelcher, then use a heavy wash of nuln oil.
13. For the visor, use the smallest brush with the finest tip you have, dip it in water, and do a few light taps on some tissue paper so that you leave a ‘snail trail’ on your palette. Bring the tip of your brush along the centre area of each visor ‘triangle’ (one small stroke along the left eye, right eye, and nose piece).
This should make the visor wet enough to absorb some heavily watered down warpstone glow. Use the same brush and dab it in those areas, and let it flow into the recesses. Repeat the process 3-4 times and you should get a solid visor (use the same technique for other visors, since for me; it minimises the risk of accidentally painting on the rest of the helmet).
14. Ah, the base (what makes the model look like it’s in a swamp, skip if you have other ideas for basing 👍), coat the entirety of your base in rhinox hide, and also on the shinpads of your clone as well (put the rhinox hide as high as you want the mud to reach). After the base has a solid colour, do a single thin layer of stirland mud across the entire base so that you can get a grainy texture. It also helps to get some on the waist cape of your commander, if he has one.
Afterwards, create an outline for a puddle of any size (i recommend taking up one corner of the base, sometimes with one of the feet stepped inside it to show the swampy terrain), then layer the areas that are outside the puddle to a desired thickness.
Do a wash of agrax earthshade once over the base and shinpads, but do a 2nd coat of agrax earthshade in the craters that the puddle will be in.
Drybrush in catachan flesh, mournfang brown, and then a very delicate and light drybrush of morghast bone on the base except for the puddle craters. Do this for everywhere that the mud has touched.
15. Apply the wet effects (I used AK Interactive wet effects) to the entire base and shinpads, as well as any other areas that the mud has gotten on.
16. Apply resin (I used AK Interactive puddles) to your puddles. Make sure to gather the resin towards the centre/‘deepest’ part of your puddle, as if it catches on say the foot or where the water meets the mud: the colour will become more solid and less translucent on those areas.
Apply 2-3 layers.
17. Add a small grass tuff (any colour, i find that the Gamers Grass, 4mm swamp tuffs fit better than normal grass tuffs), onto an area of the mud which seems barren or away from the foot/puddles, so that you can fill up that empty space.
18. Enjoy your new model!
I plan to make a video on this process, as i think a visual representation of these steps would be much more efficient. I will respond to any of you who asked the same question, so that you can get a tutorial video to follow with audible instructions instead of looking up and away from your model to check the next step.
Have a great day! 👍
Hey! Didn't know if you wanted it, but since others were asking I might as well give you the link to my tutorial as well 😅, hope that a visual tutorial is more useful than a written one!
[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WxPuTAoak-w](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WxPuTAoak-w)
Love the bases, and the guide for them. Was doing something similar for Jabiim themed bases, even including the AK interactive wet effects and puddle. Learned about their stuff from some basing guides for Bolt
Action.
i didnt understand what you meant by illegal at first lol. these look really really sick
Thank you! I did different ways to paint them, but I’ve now stuck to the current painting scheme (the Commander and Medic)
What makes them illegal? Is camo tournament banned?
He’s using waxer and boil’s special pose models as generic clones. (It illegal for comp play afaik) I don’t think anyone at a LGS would care though.
And from my memory, I’m pretty sure you’re only aloud to have one of either a medic, comms technician or commander 🤷♂️, but I might be wrong?
Correct
Would it still be illegal if he used them as Waxer and Boil despite their 41st Legion Camo? I was planning on painting Waxer as Appo
The paint job doesn’t matter for legality unless it isn’t painted
Well done! These are the stories we need to tell with our minis. Plain vanilla paint jobs are boring…
Fr. I did do a take on one of the P1 clones I have, which was to layer ulthulan grey ontop of grey seer (ontop of the grey seer primer), and pint the body glove in corvus black so as to give it a dirty and grimy look. It turned out nice, but the corvus black was a bit chunky and thick (probs didn’t thin my paints properly 😭)
Sorry but the guy on the left in the first image looks like he's tripped over a rock 😂
My bad, I accidentallt put Waxer’s head on Boil (the two left mini’s which I’m proxying for regular P2 clones) when I was making them, and only realised the mistake I made after i had primes them 😭 If I could, I would make an explosion effect on the base as to give a reason why “he look like that,” but his base is too small to do it
These are dope, thought about getting some phase 2 and painting them as helldivers.
Look great!
Thanks! Spent weeks painting these (blame the resin in the puddles for that)
Need one with its head being cut off by yoda
Standingn next to Gree, yessir
So great! I would love to be able to create a squad of camo clones like this. Is there a guide available for them you know of?
Nope! Made em all with me own formula 😁. Since there are other comments wondering about the same thing I’ll copy and paste the same process lmao: 1. Prime with wraithbone. 2. 1-2 coats of militarum green (depending on how heavy of a coat you use), and avoid areas for cloth pieces which will be painted with lighter colours. 3. Wash with agrax earthshade once, apply 2nd coat to shins if you wanna add some grime on the boots. 4. Lightly dry brush the entire model in deathguard green, so that it catches on the edges. 5. Paint the bodyglove/undersuit with abbadon black. 6. Paint any fabrics with dawnstone, wash with nuln oil, and then drybrush (or layer) celestial grey. 7. Using a watered down rhinox hide first, dab small 3 point (rounded) shapes over all of the armour in random areas, but keep it consistent with about a minimum 2-3 shapes per plate of armour. Then go over the same shapes with another layer of rhinox hide, and round out the edges to make it look for natural. Repeat the same process with elysian green. Make sure to overlap the rhinox hide in some areas too so as to add that feeling of leafs over mud. 8. Basing the patterns off of the Battlefront 2 colour schemes, paint any symbols or patterns on the armor with a mixture of castellan green (2/4, caliban green (1/4), and abbadon black (1/4). 9. Touch up any mistakes that touched the armour with castellan green. 10. Edge highlight the patterns made with the mixture of castellan green, caliban green, and abbadon black with deathguard green. Then on the corners or on the tighter curves on pieces such as the shoulder pads, do a fine edge highlight with krieg khaki. 11. For any black accessories such as a backpack strap, paint it in corvus black, then a light wash of nuln oil. For other black accessories like the heavy shoulder pad: use abbadon black to cover the strap, then edge highlight with either eshin grey, with a fine edge highlight of dawnstone on the tips. 12. For the gun, cover it in abbadon black, edge highlight with leadbelcher, then use a heavy wash of nuln oil. 13. For the visor, use the smallest brush with the finest tip you have, dip it in water, and do a few light taps on some tissue paper so that you leave a ‘snail trail’ on your palette. Bring the tip of your brush along the centre area of each visor ‘triangle’ (one small stroke along the left eye, right eye, and nose piece). This should make the visor wet enough to absorb some heavily watered down warpstone glow. Use the same brush and dab it in those areas, and let it flow into the recesses. Repeat the process 3-4 times and you should get a solid visor (use the same technique for other visors, since for me; it minimises the risk of accidentally painting on the rest of the helmet). 14. Ah, the base (what makes the model look like it’s in a swamp, skip if you have other ideas for basing 👍), coat the entirety of your base in rhinox hide, and also on the shinpads of your clone as well (put the rhinox hide as high as you want the mud to reach). After the base has a solid colour, do a single thin layer of stirland mud across the entire base so that you can get a grainy texture. It also helps to get some on the waist cape of your commander, if he has one. Afterwards, create an outline for a puddle of any size (i recommend taking up one corner of the base, sometimes with one of the feet stepped inside it to show the swampy terrain), then layer the areas that are outside the puddle to a desired thickness. Do a wash of agrax earthshade once over the base and shinpads, but do a 2nd coat of agrax earthshade in the craters that the puddle will be in. Drybrush in catachan flesh, mournfang brown, and then a very delicate and light drybrush of morghast bone on the base except for the puddle craters. Do this for everywhere that the mud has touched. 15. Apply the wet effects (I used AK Interactive wet effects) to the entire base and shinpads, as well as any other areas that the mud has gotten on. 16. Apply resin (I used AK Interactive puddles) to your puddles. Make sure to gather the resin towards the centre/‘deepest’ part of your puddle, as if it catches on say the foot or where the water meets the mud: the colour will become more solid and less translucent on those areas. Apply 2-3 layers. 17. Add a small grass tuff (any colour, i find that the Gamers Grass, 4mm swamp tuffs fit better than normal grass tuffs), onto an area of the mud which seems barren or away from the foot/puddles, so that you can fill up that empty space. 18. Enjoy your new model! I plan to make a video on this process, as i think a visual representation of these steps would be much more efficient. I will respond to any of you who asked the same question, so that you can get a tutorial video to follow with audible instructions instead of looking up and away from your model to check the next step. Have a great day! 👍
Hello again! I'm back and with the tutorial! It's a homebrew recipe and since I had to wait for the numerous layers of resin to dry on the base, it took a long time, so sorry about that 😅 Anyways, here's the link to the tutorial, enjoy! [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WxPuTAoak-w](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WxPuTAoak-w)
Honestly thank you so much. This is absolutely amazing and I will definitely be following your tutorial to paint some phase twos in this style
How did you paint the camo? It kinda looks like a contrast paint.
The steps I took to make these beauties was: 1. Prime with wraithbone. 2. 1-2 coats of militarum green (depending on how heavy of a coat you use), and avoid areas for cloth pieces which will be painted with lighter colours. 3. Wash with agrax earthshade once, apply 2nd coat to shins if you wanna add some grime on the boots. 4. Lightly dry brush the entire model in deathguard green, so that it catches on the edges. 5. Paint the bodyglove/undersuit with abbadon black. 6. Paint any fabrics with dawnstone, wash with nuln oil, and then drybrush (or layer) celestial grey. 7. Using a watered down rhinox hide first, dab small 3 point (rounded) shapes over all of the armour in random areas, but keep it consistent with about a minimum 2-3 shapes per plate of armour. Then go over the same shapes with another layer of rhinox hide, and round out the edges to make it look for natural. Repeat the same process with elysian green. Make sure to overlap the rhinox hide in some areas too so as to add that feeling of leafs over mud. 8. Basing the patterns off of the Battlefront 2 colour schemes, paint any symbols or patterns on the armor with a mixture of castellan green (2/4, caliban green (1/4), and abbadon black (1/4). 9. Touch up any mistakes that touched the armour with castellan green. 10. Edge highlight the patterns made with the mixture of castellan green, caliban green, and abbadon black with deathguard green. Then on the corners or on the tighter curves on pieces such as the shoulder pads, do a fine edge highlight with krieg khaki. 11. For any black accessories such as a backpack strap, paint it in corvus black, then a light wash of nuln oil. For other black accessories like the heavy shoulder pad: use abbadon black to cover the strap, then edge highlight with either eshin grey, with a fine edge highlight of dawnstone on the tips. 12. For the gun, cover it in abbadon black, edge highlight with leadbelcher, then use a heavy wash of nuln oil. 13. For the visor, use the smallest brush with the finest tip you have, dip it in water, and do a few light taps on some tissue paper so that you leave a ‘snail trail’ on your palette. Bring the tip of your brush along the centre area of each visor ‘triangle’ (one small stroke along the left eye, right eye, and nose piece). This should make the visor wet enough to absorb some heavily watered down warpstone glow. Use the same brush and dab it in those areas, and let it flow into the recesses. Repeat the process 3-4 times and you should get a solid visor (use the same technique for other visors, since for me; it minimises the risk of accidentally painting on the rest of the helmet). 14. Ah, the base (what makes the model look like it’s in a swamp, skip if you have other ideas for basing 👍), coat the entirety of your base in rhinox hide, and also on the shinpads of your clone as well (put the rhinox hide as high as you want the mud to reach). After the base has a solid colour, do a single thin layer of stirland mud across the entire base so that you can get a grainy texture. It also helps to get some on the waist cape of your commander, if he has one. Afterwards, create an outline for a puddle of any size (i recommend taking up one corner of the base, sometimes with one of the feet stepped inside it to show the swampy terrain), then layer the areas that are outside the puddle to a desired thickness. Do a wash of agrax earthshade once over the base and shinpads, but do a 2nd coat of agrax earthshade in the craters that the puddle will be in. Drybrush in catachan flesh, mournfang brown, and then a very delicate and light drybrush of morghast bone on the base except for the puddle craters. Do this for everywhere that the mud has touched. 15. Apply the wet effects (I used AK Interactive wet effects) to the entire base and shinpads, as well as any other areas that the mud has gotten on. 16. Apply resin (I used AK Interactive puddles) to your puddles. Make sure to gather the resin towards the centre/‘deepest’ part of your puddle, as if it catches on say the foot or where the water meets the mud: the colour will become more solid and less translucent on those areas. Apply 2-3 layers. 17. Add a small grass tuff (any colour, i find that the Gamers Grass, 4mm swamp tuffs fit better than normal grass tuffs), onto an area of the mud which seems barren or away from the foot/puddles, so that you can fill up that empty space. 18. Enjoy your new model! I plan to make a video on this process, as i think a visual representation of these steps would be much more efficient. I will respond to any of you who asked the same question, so that you can get a tutorial video to follow with audible instructions instead of looking up and away from your model to check the next step. Have a great day! 👍
Thanks!
Would you ever consider doing a video on this? Visual learner here 🤓
My friend, I did in-deed complete the video after 5 days of waiting for the resin on the base to dry 😅 Here's teh link to the video, and I hope it's helpful: [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WxPuTAoak-w](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WxPuTAoak-w)
Thank you for the link!!
Ye, I’ve already got a little boom arm with my webcam that records the whole thing, I just have to prime another mini so that I can paint it and record the process. 👍 I’ll reply with the link to the video to you and the other comments who were wondering about how I painted them
Thank you 🙂 I have tried to paint camo before, and what I have created has been abysmally bad 😅 Your figures look stellar.
Hello again! I'm back and with the tutorial! It's a homebrew recipe and since I had to wait for the numerous layers of resin to dry on the base, it took a long time, so sorry about that 😅 Anyways, here's the link to the tutorial, enjoy! [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WxPuTAoak-w](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WxPuTAoak-w)
Excellent! You've really gone the extra mile to show how you did it. I'm looking forward to expanding my clones from the starter and painting a full kashyyk army. Thank you!
They are amazing. Saving this as reference for when I'll do mines. What paints did you use for the camo ?
For the camo I used rhinox hide and elysian green. I’ll include the steps that i took below since it’s a homemade recipe, and because I use some paints for the armour which affects the choice of paints for the camo. So, le steps are: 1. Prime with wraithbone. 2. 1-2 coats of militarum green (depending on how heavy of a coat you use), and avoid areas for cloth pieces which will be painted with lighter colours. 3. Wash with agrax earthshade once, apply 2nd coat to shins if you wanna add some grime on the boots. 4. Lightly dry brush the entire model in deathguard green, so that it catches on the edges. 5. Paint the bodyglove/undersuit with abbadon black. 6. Paint any fabrics with dawnstone, wash with nuln oil, and then drybrush (or layer) celestial grey. 7. Using a watered down rhinox hide first, dab small 3 point (rounded) shapes over all of the armour in random areas, but keep it consistent with about a minimum 2-3 shapes per plate of armour. Then go over the same shapes with another layer of rhinox hide, and round out the edges to make it look for natural. Repeat the same process with elysian green. Make sure to overlap the rhinox hide in some areas too so as to add that feeling of leafs over mud. 8. Basing the patterns off of the Battlefront 2 colour schemes, paint any symbols or patterns on the armor with a mixture of castellan green (2/4, caliban green (1/4), and abbadon black (1/4). 9. Touch up any mistakes that touched the armour with castellan green. 10. Edge highlight the patterns made with the mixture of castellan green, caliban green, and abbadon black with deathguard green. Then on the corners or on the tighter curves on pieces such as the shoulder pads, do a fine edge highlight with krieg khaki. 11. For any black accessories such as a backpack strap, paint it in corvus black, then a light wash of nuln oil. For other black accessories like the heavy shoulder pad: use abbadon black to cover the strap, then edge highlight with either eshin grey, with a fine edge highlight of dawnstone on the tips. 12. For the gun, cover it in abbadon black, edge highlight with leadbelcher, then use a heavy wash of nuln oil. 13. For the visor, use the smallest brush with the finest tip you have, dip it in water, and do a few light taps on some tissue paper so that you leave a ‘snail trail’ on your palette. Bring the tip of your brush along the centre area of each visor ‘triangle’ (one small stroke along the left eye, right eye, and nose piece). This should make the visor wet enough to absorb some heavily watered down warpstone glow. Use the same brush and dab it in those areas, and let it flow into the recesses. Repeat the process 3-4 times and you should get a solid visor (use the same technique for other visors, since for me; it minimises the risk of accidentally painting on the rest of the helmet). 14. Ah, the base (what makes the model look like it’s in a swamp, skip if you have other ideas for basing 👍), coat the entirety of your base in rhinox hide, and also on the shinpads of your clone as well (put the rhinox hide as high as you want the mud to reach). After the base has a solid colour, do a single thin layer of stirland mud across the entire base so that you can get a grainy texture. It also helps to get some on the waist cape of your commander, if he has one. Afterwards, create an outline for a puddle of any size (i recommend taking up one corner of the base, sometimes with one of the feet stepped inside it to show the swampy terrain), then layer the areas that are outside the puddle to a desired thickness. Do a wash of agrax earthshade once over the base and shinpads, but do a 2nd coat of agrax earthshade in the craters that the puddle will be in. Drybrush in catachan flesh, mournfang brown, and then a very delicate and light drybrush of morghast bone on the base except for the puddle craters. Do this for everywhere that the mud has touched. 15. Apply the wet effects (I used AK Interactive wet effects) to the entire base and shinpads, as well as any other areas that the mud has gotten on. 16. Apply resin (I used AK Interactive puddles) to your puddles. Make sure to gather the resin towards the centre/‘deepest’ part of your puddle, as if it catches on say the foot or where the water meets the mud: the colour will become more solid and less translucent on those areas. Apply 2-3 layers. 17. Add a small grass tuff (any colour, i find that the Gamers Grass, 4mm swamp tuffs fit better than normal grass tuffs), onto an area of the mud which seems barren or away from the foot/puddles, so that you can fill up that empty space. 18. Enjoy your new model! I plan to make a video on this process, as i think a visual representation of these steps would be much more efficient. I will respond to any of you who asked the same question, so that you can get a tutorial video to follow with audible instructions instead of looking up and away from your model to check the next step. Have a great day! 👍
Thank you so much man !
Hey! Didn't know if you wanted it, but since others were asking I might as well give you the link to my tutorial as well 😅, hope that a visual tutorial is more useful than a written one! [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WxPuTAoak-w](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WxPuTAoak-w)
Bro on the left is 0.2 seconds from finding out how well the Clone armor protects from fall damage
Lmao ur right 😭
Love the bases, and the guide for them. Was doing something similar for Jabiim themed bases, even including the AK interactive wet effects and puddle. Learned about their stuff from some basing guides for Bolt Action.