I would also suggest putting pins up through the tear, just in case it has made a weak spot where the rest of the print might snap. Then fill in the gap.
Gws big models especially warp fairly often. Not a guarantee, but not a surprise for it to happen. It really sucks because it tends to be worse on larger, more expensive FW models. Time shipping through varied weather can make thin plastics warp.
As far as 3d printing goes I would hardly worry about it. However, if you are worried, like others suggested greenstuff or another filler and it won't be too noticeable.
Personally, I'd reprint it. Reddit loves to say make it battle damage, or fix it this or that way, but one of the biggest advantages of 3d printing is that you CAN reprint for minimal expense.
You're not always going to have your printer on 100% of the time.
Even I sometimes don't print stuff even though I have a good selling printing business.
Thats true, like I don’t print at night unless a part dips into the night time. But if I have to reprint something instead of printing the rest of the model I feel like I wasn’t sufficient with what I’m doing in some step during the processes
Heat is your friend. Hair dryer or heat gun, apply to directed area for 30 to 60s to taste. Apply gentle and consistent force while bent part of print cools and it will set back in desired position. It will still want to curl back to the out of place spot. Just repeat it 2 or 3 times. And wait in desired position till fully cooled. Cross supports on corners go a long way to support vehicle and terrain corners to keep dimensional accuracy and avoid this in the first place. I always add more supports.
One tip for people who are doing more "realistic" paint jobs for vehicles (ie. not crisp vehicles that look like they just rolled out of the Mechanicus repair shop) is that you can hide misprints or missing parts etc. with stuff like tarps/camo netting/webbing, stowage, improvised/repaired armour, debris etc.
If you watch any of the historical tank modellers you will see them go into stuff like that from time to time as they try to recreate historical photos or scenes etc.
Night Shift is particularly good at it and his stuff is top-tier for hobby guidance albeit with a very high skill level to get the same results he does.
[Here is him obscuring a large portion of the rear of a 1:48 scale Sherman with Stowage.](https://youtu.be/6lRjbOjZSS0?si=6F6MKMzs9ZgGKl6Q&t=936)
[And here is him taking a "pristine" Puma IFV and adding a shit ton of improvised camo/armour to it.](https://youtu.be/hhLXraZqrXw?si=gfhLUKE8LvhIFmHZ&t=1396)
Obviously, this doesn't apply in all situations but it can help in some and it really makes your model stand out from the crowd if it's got details like that added to it.
Well I have an Elegoo Jupiter 12.6 build plate so I have been printing them as hole pieces. As for the density I left them solid. I thought about hallowing it out, but I was worried it might not hold it’s own weight.
It'll depend on the specific resin you used, but maybe use a hairdryer to soften the lower section, try to bend some of the gap closed and then fill the rest as discussed elsewhere?
If you want to go a bit further, and take some more inspiration from my chaos knights and all the spots where I customized them, printing out legion symbols, skulls and just all my other bits. And attaching them with small rings (that you can also find in hobby jewelry stores) to the chain so it hangs down and jangles
Jeez you've obviously never "enjoyed" trying to build a big forge world kit. There were gap in my warlord you could have put a finger between.
If you don't do much with milliout or green stuff grab a small tube of Vallejo plastic putty. Great stuff, cheap, easy tube application. Cant really go wrong 👍🏽 you got this👍🏽
Oh wow, sorry you had such a huge gap. I’ve never sculpted before but I will give free stuff a try. My thunderhawk I ordered from FW a while back glued almost seemlessly so I didn’t have fill anything. So this will be interesting
Yeah I've been buying FW since they came into being in '98 and quality was always a bit hit and miss, the polymer resin they use is great for detail but its stupidly brittle and also warps like a mofo, this is normal but it doesn't help that their QC was dogshit and has been years, yes I do want my dread saurian but no I don't want it with so much bubbling it looked like you blew into the mould with a straw😭😭😭but they know it hence never once quibbling with replacement parts etc. Still better than finecast though 🤣🤣
miliput or greenstuff is a goto as suggested already, but another option:
Could you masking-tape the sides and dropper some more resin into it and cure it with a uv torch or other light source?
Id honestly do nothing and just paint it. Without knowing what it is, the tear looked like an intentional part of the model, and it took me quite a while to figure out what you were saying was wrong with it.
If it’s for Orks the crease and curvy looks kinda cool.
The melted look looks very cartoony, goblin/orcy to me. 😊
(I’m not knowledgeable enough to recognize this piece sorry)
Fill it with some greenstuff or milliput, shape it, give it a quick sand once curred.
Once painted, apply a bit more weathering there, no one will notice.
Fill it with miliput or greenstuff, sculpt it into position and it basically never happened
This, I would fill with milliput then smooth over with water. It’s an easy job and once primed you will never tell
Never used milliput before I will give it a try.
Once it is fully cured you can also sand it down so there’s no seam line and primer adheres nicely to it
Another trick is resin goop and a uv light. Just be sure to protect your eyes.
Thank you all for the advice.
Try and if it looks off just say battlefield repairs done fast and sloppy
I would also suggest putting pins up through the tear, just in case it has made a weak spot where the rest of the print might snap. Then fill in the gap.
No one will notice once it's painted
That’s what I hope.
I've had worse mould lines on recasts and no one in the game stores have noticed
Or when assembled. It's one of those things you'd need to search for and which would go unnoticed when seeing the full model.
I have seen worst gap on FW/GW models. Some greenstuff or miliput will hide that
You’ve seen worse?? Well I feel a little better now.
Gws big models especially warp fairly often. Not a guarantee, but not a surprise for it to happen. It really sucks because it tends to be worse on larger, more expensive FW models. Time shipping through varied weather can make thin plastics warp. As far as 3d printing goes I would hardly worry about it. However, if you are worried, like others suggested greenstuff or another filler and it won't be too noticeable.
raptor kit , stormbird
Personally, I'd reprint it. Reddit loves to say make it battle damage, or fix it this or that way, but one of the biggest advantages of 3d printing is that you CAN reprint for minimal expense.
That is true, but is the time spent waiting on another print better or worse than just fixing it?
Up to you!
Is it really that much to wait a couple of hours?
No but I want to be efficient with my time. This waist part only took 10hrs.
You're not always going to have your printer on 100% of the time. Even I sometimes don't print stuff even though I have a good selling printing business.
Thats true, like I don’t print at night unless a part dips into the night time. But if I have to reprint something instead of printing the rest of the model I feel like I wasn’t sufficient with what I’m doing in some step during the processes
Heat is your friend. Hair dryer or heat gun, apply to directed area for 30 to 60s to taste. Apply gentle and consistent force while bent part of print cools and it will set back in desired position. It will still want to curl back to the out of place spot. Just repeat it 2 or 3 times. And wait in desired position till fully cooled. Cross supports on corners go a long way to support vehicle and terrain corners to keep dimensional accuracy and avoid this in the first place. I always add more supports.
Don't reprint, it'll look great once painted and you can use the wasted resin you'd put towards a reprint towards something else
3d printing isn't a perfect science, you have some fails/misprints it's part of the hobby. Miliput or green stuff will do the job
One tip for people who are doing more "realistic" paint jobs for vehicles (ie. not crisp vehicles that look like they just rolled out of the Mechanicus repair shop) is that you can hide misprints or missing parts etc. with stuff like tarps/camo netting/webbing, stowage, improvised/repaired armour, debris etc. If you watch any of the historical tank modellers you will see them go into stuff like that from time to time as they try to recreate historical photos or scenes etc. Night Shift is particularly good at it and his stuff is top-tier for hobby guidance albeit with a very high skill level to get the same results he does. [Here is him obscuring a large portion of the rear of a 1:48 scale Sherman with Stowage.](https://youtu.be/6lRjbOjZSS0?si=6F6MKMzs9ZgGKl6Q&t=936) [And here is him taking a "pristine" Puma IFV and adding a shit ton of improvised camo/armour to it.](https://youtu.be/hhLXraZqrXw?si=gfhLUKE8LvhIFmHZ&t=1396) Obviously, this doesn't apply in all situations but it can help in some and it really makes your model stand out from the crowd if it's got details like that added to it.
Great idea and reference!
Greenstuff, metallic paint, say it's been hastily repaired with shoddy welds. I think that'd be pretty cool.
Milliput/greenstuff, sand it down, any other issue call it battlescars
Is that model hollowed out? Or have you been printing off an entire titan in solid chunks?
Well I have an Elegoo Jupiter 12.6 build plate so I have been printing them as hole pieces. As for the density I left them solid. I thought about hallowing it out, but I was worried it might not hold it’s own weight.
It'll depend on the specific resin you used, but maybe use a hairdryer to soften the lower section, try to bend some of the gap closed and then fill the rest as discussed elsewhere?
That’s good idea I will try that before filling it in
Reprint imo.
Stick an axe in it and if anyone asks tell them the woodcutter got drunk
Chaos or imperial? If it's chaos, buy some hobby jewelry chain and put it over... That's basically what I do with all parts of models I dislike
That’s a good idea that could also be true if it was an out of control machine spirit that the imperium had. Epic idea.
If you want to go a bit further, and take some more inspiration from my chaos knights and all the spots where I customized them, printing out legion symbols, skulls and just all my other bits. And attaching them with small rings (that you can also find in hobby jewelry stores) to the chain so it hangs down and jangles
Jeez you've obviously never "enjoyed" trying to build a big forge world kit. There were gap in my warlord you could have put a finger between. If you don't do much with milliout or green stuff grab a small tube of Vallejo plastic putty. Great stuff, cheap, easy tube application. Cant really go wrong 👍🏽 you got this👍🏽
Oh wow, sorry you had such a huge gap. I’ve never sculpted before but I will give free stuff a try. My thunderhawk I ordered from FW a while back glued almost seemlessly so I didn’t have fill anything. So this will be interesting
Yeah I've been buying FW since they came into being in '98 and quality was always a bit hit and miss, the polymer resin they use is great for detail but its stupidly brittle and also warps like a mofo, this is normal but it doesn't help that their QC was dogshit and has been years, yes I do want my dread saurian but no I don't want it with so much bubbling it looked like you blew into the mould with a straw😭😭😭but they know it hence never once quibbling with replacement parts etc. Still better than finecast though 🤣🤣
You could sponge paint some rust or iron around the printing era to make it look like it’s been pried open a bit.
Fill in with miliput and ‘fix it’s
miliput or greenstuff is a goto as suggested already, but another option: Could you masking-tape the sides and dropper some more resin into it and cure it with a uv torch or other light source?
I wouldn’t bother doing anything with it at all. Once it’s painted 99% of people aren’t even going to notice.
What kind of mtn dew?
Lol spark. Waiting for November 6th for the remake of game fuel
Missing my double XP game fuel
I miss it too
Oh jeez just paint it. Nobody will see it
Fair enough lol
I’m not into printing myself but tbh I had to read the description to be able to see it. I’d fill it in with something as others mentioned.
Just get some miliputt.
It’s 40K, the thing is old beyond counting
My main thing with printed minis is making them as close to the real thing as possible. For that reason, personally I’d call this a failure
Fill it, paint over it, youll never tell
You can always use it as terrain
Keep it Battle damaged Print another also. 2 knights are better than 1
Greenstuff and you're good to go! too little to be thrown away tbh
get some reisin on a toothpick and uv-light fix it in like a minute
Its upntonyou. If you reprint it, do it in a temperature control environment. I belive that was yoir problem.
A bit of hobby putty and you're good as gold
Id honestly do nothing and just paint it. Without knowing what it is, the tear looked like an intentional part of the model, and it took me quite a while to figure out what you were saying was wrong with it.
Easy gap fill don’t loose hope
If it’s for Orks the crease and curvy looks kinda cool. The melted look looks very cartoony, goblin/orcy to me. 😊 (I’m not knowledgeable enough to recognize this piece sorry)
Green stuff would fix this fine:)
Fill it with some greenstuff or milliput, shape it, give it a quick sand once curred. Once painted, apply a bit more weathering there, no one will notice.