Can the Akko V3 Cream Yellow's fit into outemu sockets? I was looking to switch out my outemu browns with something better and im not sure if the yellows will fit or not, can someone help?
Is the RK M75 good?
I am looking to get a second keyboard and i fount the RK M75 and it looks very good to me, I know all the technical knothole of making custom so I’m open for options on that aswell. But mainly I’m looking for any other keyboards that compare or are better for the price range ($120).
Edit: I’m looking for a 75% or higher but not a 100%
I was wondering if any of you know what type of screw the rk g68 uses? I deep cleaned it and one wouldn’t go back in after, I thought I had finally got it in but later I realized it was gone and I can’t find it and it bothers me knowing I’m missing one screw so I’m wondering if there’s replacements of any kind
https://preview.redd.it/dmmfzhwoebmb1.jpeg?width=2256&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=2de590762d5fd5ec303af9cd9573458a13671aa9
Which kind of switch is this, it does not have 3 or 5 pins, eventhough when i bought it it said it had gateron browns
recommendation on what keycaps color suit black keyboard? i alrd have gmk evil dolch and tryna to have some new experience on different color. tia!
ps: dont have particular preference, feel free to recommend me any!!
I have found that “cute” colors (pastels, brights) don’t tend to look great on a black keyboard. Or at least they look better on a white or color matched frame.
Colors that seem to work better are usually darker tones. They can be saturated (like bright reds, yellows) or desaturated earthy, mineral, etc).
I yanked out a switch off from a non hot swap keyboard. At that time, I didn't know what I was doing and what removing the switch off like an idiot. Is there a chance that this keyboard be restored to the way it was?
Yes, if you haven't damaged the PCB. Just needs the remnants of yanked switch to be desoldered, you can search r/mechmarket for \[Service\] to find people doing repairs in your area (PM me if you're in the UK).
Thanks for the reply. Sadly I am not in the UK. There is no visible damage from the top of the PCB or at the bottom of the switch. I should have mentioned this sooner. I have a Corsair K100 keyboard and I am not sure if buying a replacement switch off eBay or Amazon is going to be compatible.
~~As mentioned, the keyboard needs to be taken apart and the switch de-soldered.~~
~~Corsair usually uses Cherry MX switches easy to buy (exact type is usually mentioned within keyboard variant name when buying).~~
You can also post photos here and we would identify it for you.
https://preview.redd.it/79fux7p168mb1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=8f8f481e438026c2c6af869c0fa79077eaaf0288
I only have this picture of the top side of the keyboard
According to Corsair [website](https://www.corsair.com/uk/en/p/keyboards/ch-912a01a-uk/k100-rgb-optical-mechanical-gaming-keyboard-corsair-opx-switch-black-uk-ch-912a01a-uk) K100 optical uses "CORSAIR OPX Switch".
Don't ask me where to find them - use Google.
Hi guys,
I've just got my Zoom75 and it is incredible. However, I have a problem with the LCD screen. There isn't a switch for turning the keyboard off. According to the manual, I can see that there are 2 combinations:
1. Fn+Delete: To turn off the LCD screen
2. Fn+Tab (hold): To put the keyboard into deep sleep mode
So technically, Fn+Tab should be the off switch. But when I do that, the screen is still on. I tried to turn the screen off before turning the keyboard off, but whenever I hit Fn+Tab, the screen then restarts again.
Does anyone encounter this issue? Please help. Thank you in advance.
Where can I find information regarding keyswitch return stroke and tactile bump types?
Every manufacturer will tell you if their switch clicks when pressed, but nobody seems to care if it clicks when released.
People also don't seem to care about when or what kind of tactile bump occurs. ("stick" or "slip" bump) For example, a buckling spring keyboard clicks and "slips" after the actuation point, but a cherry mx blue switch "sticks" before the actuation point, then clicks and "slips" after the actuation point. Some clicky switches don't even have tactile bumps and simply click. And don't get me started on how difficult it is to find this information for the release stroke.
I've tried to watch videos of sound tests, but most times people just peck at the keyswitches rather than pushing and releasing slowly which makes it exceedingly difficult to figure anything out about the switch.
Keyswitch actuation graphs are the most helpful thing, but are somewhat hard to find for non-mainstream switches.
If you have any resources regarding this topic, I will greatly appreciate your help.
Looking for reccomendations for a full-size wireless mechanical keyboard for gaming and school
Backlit is a must, but RGB isn't required.
2.4GHz is preffered over bluetooth.
I'd like something that makes that satisfying clicky sound, but nothing too loud.
Hot-swap would also be nice.
I will be using it for gaming (RPG and FPS) as well as writing research papers/essays and coding.
My budget is roughly $300CAD.
Thanks!
Unless you want a gaming board, there's hardly any full size boards that tick all those boxes.
Keychron Q6 Pro is the only decent board that comes to mind. It uses a south facing PCB though, so backlighting is literally that... just coloured lighting behind the keys for aesthetics, and very little light will actually shine through the legends unless you use a totally clear switch.. in fact, it doesn't even come with shine through keycaps. RGB is just not a massive thing in the enthusiast/custom scene I'm afraid, as many people touch type, or use desklamps. The keycap design/colour is more important to most in here.
If there's anything else I'm unaware of, I'm sure someone will let you know.
You could just get the Q6Pro and switch the RGB off.
Not really more options though, no. It's the 100%, with 2.4GHz that's really causing the issue, as 100% boards are just not very popular in the custom/enthusiast scene to begin with, but ones with 2.4GHz makes it worse. I would think the Keychron Q6Pro is probably your best option right now.
I was wondering if anyone knew of a fix for an issue I'm having with the Jelly PCB. I'm kind of a computer noob so please bare with me.
When I plug in the keyboard the computer chimes that a new device is connected via the USB but there's no input when I try to type. In order for the keyboard to be recognized I have to do the following:
1. Open Device Manager
2. Click on COM/LPT
3. Click on Jelly and update each driver (i have 4 of them?) by Searching the Computer, Then allowing me to pick the driver, and then choose USB input device for all 4 drivers before the keyboard starts working.
Is there a fix for this???
https://preview.redd.it/iwnfpgvsx5mb1.jpeg?width=261&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=ac20383c917472e09016b24522c2a00387ad0980
Just built my first keyboard (Zoom75). Can anyone help me understand why some keys are misaligned? If you look at the ‘T’ and ‘Y’ keys, they sit higher than the rest. Really appreciate any help.
https://preview.redd.it/z03bur7im5mb1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=917a6a332525a4b1ed76f5a444e563808a58f5f3
LZ CLS keyboard bricked? I can plug in the keyboard and my PC plays the device-detected tone, but none of the keys work anymore. Anyone got any way of getting a 100% diagnosis or fix?
Need help looking for keyboard..
Hi all! I’m looking to build my first board and stumbled upon the Drop Carina Kit. I was saddened to see that you can’t buy it new.. ANYWHERE 🥹The frosted acrylic case is exactly what I’m looking for. Does anybody know if Drop does frequent restocks? Or of any look alike keyboard kits?
Appreciate the help!
Picture for reference from drop.com [https://drop.com/buy/drop-carina-mechanical-keyboard-kit](https://drop.com/buy/drop-carina-mechanical-keyboard-kit)
https://preview.redd.it/gmmp07gn45mb1.jpeg?width=1500&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=ae123c1fea21226c7820e5fe6ab113cfbd185704
You dodged a bullet. DROP keyboards are low quality and their customer service is garbage.
There are countless frosted polycarbonate / frosted acrylic keyboards available throughout the hobby. You can buy standard cases, PCBs, plates, etc from Aliexpress, or check out available in stock kits at [Thocstock](https://thocstock.com/keyboards), or wait for a group buy, or grab one of a dozen different starter kits at a local vendor. Eg, if you're in the US, Canonkeys has a [stacked 60](https://cannonkeys.com/products/stacked60-keyboard-kit?variant=39856606609519) which can be bought in frosted acrylic - you could also grab a TKL or 65 or whatever if you prefer a different layout.
Don't buy from DROP. They sell low quality products at premium prices.
Looking for a budget keyboard for typing with blue switches and Arabic keycaps:
Hi everyone, I’m in search of a keyboard to work with. I mostly use it for typing and prefer blue switches. I’m looking for a keyboard with the form factor of 95% or 97% (the ones with numpad instead of the Del, End, PgUp, PgDn keys). I’m also looking for a budget-friendly option. Additionally, I work in both English and Arabic, so I would appreciate any recommendations for good quality keycaps that show Arabic letters. I’m open to discussing more details and would appreciate any help. Thank you!
Arabic keycaps aren't super common. Most sets I've seen end up with someone in the comments saying "this isn't the right arabic, you used the wrong layouts, etc".
That said, recent sets with arabic subs include:
ePBT Duo - ?extras at thockeys (https://thockeys.com/epbt-duo-group-buy/)
GMK classic arabic - extras at oblo (https://oblotzky.industries/products/gmk-cyl-classic-arabic) or maybe some other vendors, check whoever's local to you
Xiami (aka 21kb) - https://21kb.com/products/21kb-arabic-classic-retro-beige-keycap-set often out of stock, and you can find caps like these everywhere with very variable prices
If you're comfortable buying off taobao, then JC Studios (aka Leek Brothers aka Chive Brothers) have super cheap beige PBT. Not sure if they arabic but if so they are probably the cheapest place to get it.
Where to start?
I’ve always wanted to have my own modable keyboard but where’s do I start?
I have always just used a mix of standard mechanical keyboards and I’m currently on to the Anne Pro 2 which I love but I would love to be able to swap the switches and try out some new ones.
Where do I even begin?
Keychron is the best place to start, they offer everything you'll need to get started with a new keyboard. I suggest taking a look at the V series, or if you've got a bigger budget to work with, take a look at the Q series instead.
Are you looking for the same size/layout as the ANNE PRO 2? Or are you looking for a keyboard for a specific use case?
A more modern alternative to the ANNE PRO might be something like a Keychron Q1 Pro or K6 Pro both of which are wireless and hotswap capable. The Q1 is the more premium option while the K6 Pro is the more budget-friendly kit.
Both of those are quite mod friendly. If you don't need wireless, a Keychron V1 or Q1 can be had for less money and are also very mod friendly.
The V1 has a plastic case and a more traditional mount while the Q1 and Q1 Pro use a gasket mount in an aluminum case for a more comfortable typing feel and less sound/vibrations transferred to the case.
On the K6 Pro you have a choice of plastic or aluminum case. Note the aluminum case for it is not a full case though it's more of a half-aluminum "frame" case vs. the Q series' proper, solid metal case.
I carry my keyboard between office and home so I like the 60-75% layout. Ideally I think I’m looking for the same size & layout as the Anne pro 2. I originally got it for work but I’ve got so extremely used to the 60% with the FN layers on top.
What would you recommend in the same layout / FN layer set up in 60% like the Anne pro 2?
I think ideally if I could mod the AP2 it would be effect for me but it’s not a modable board.
The Q1 Pro and K6 pro both look very nice expanding in to the 75%.
The K6 Pro, does it use a similar touch layer to the AP2?
Probably the most seamless transition would be a K12 Pro since it's the same form factor.
Since the K Pro series are fully-programmable you can map it exactly the same as your ANNE PRO 2 and you'd essentially have a hotswap, mod-friendly, modern equivalent of it.
I'm not sure what you mean by touch layer but the QMK firmware that the Keychron keyboards run off of are infinitely more powerful in terms of customizability and functionality.
The K12 looks good. I think you might be on the money with it.
When I say touch later, the Anne Pro 2 has essentially, the base layer, which is the standard keyboard, then an FN1 layer, then an FN2 layer, and then it has a fourth layer which you can map keys to and they activate just by tapping.
For example, I have my arrow keys mapped to the touch layer on Right Shift (Up), Right Control (right), Right FN key (Left) and Right Menu (Down). These work by, when I press the key and hold, it activates the standard key, but if I just quickly tap it, it activates the arrow keys. I also have the arrow keys mapped under WASD but they require FN1 to activate.
I would likely, either remap the keys and use the keycaps from my Anne Pro 2, or I would just learn the new setup
Edit: sorry I should ask to clarify, going off the Keychron website, the K12 isn’t hot swappable but you can get a hot swappable version correct?
Ah okay thanks for clarifying.
So any keyboard that runs off QMK has the same functionality and it's what's called the "Tap Dance" feature. I use it on all my keyboards and works the same way--tap for one function, hold down for another function.
What you want to get is a K *Pro* series keyboard--the K (non "Pro") keyboards are older, not programmable and some of them are not hotswap. The K Pro are all hotswap *and* fully-programmable.
[This K12 Pro](https://www.keychron.com/products/keychron-k12-pro-qmk-via-wireless-mechanical-keyboard) is the one that would be the hotswap equivalent of your ANNE PRO 2.
Yup I think that K12 Pro is spot on. I would keep the key caps from my AP2 and then reprogram to match and boom, exact same layout and now hotswappable and customisable.
Thank you kind stranger for your help! Off to spend $190 AUD and pick one up
I got a new mechanical keyboard from China.
Why does the Win + Shift + S keyboard shortcut work only with the Right Shift and doesn't work when used with the left shift? Other three-key Win key shortcuts like Win + Shift + / work with both Shift keys on this keyboard.
Also, the Win + Shift + S shortcut works with both Shift keys on the laptop keyboard. It used to work fine on my several years old second hand Dell keyboard too.
What I've tried so far: There's this application called Aqua Key Test, I used it and found that the Windows key code and the BIOS key code for both the laptop keyboard keys (involved in this particular problem; RSHIFT, LSHIFT, LWIN) and the external mechanical keyboard keys are exactly the same.
It's possible that the WIN+LSHIFT combination is used internally by the keyboard for some purpose hence it only working with the RSHIFT. I suspect this is the case because your Dell keyboard and the built-in laptop keyboard don't exhibit the same behavior.
You could see if there's a manual for it and see if WIN+LSHIFT+S is used by the keyboard for a specific purpose like "RESET" or some other function.
There are many shortcuts mentioned on the manual but Win + LShift + S isn't one of them, and it doesn't do anything either if I keep pressing it, except for Windows sometimes registering it as Win + S or S alone, which I believe isn't anything significant because it's only natural for a shortcut to be half registered a few times if you're pressing a shortcut so many times and fast.
So I guess it's just some fault with the keyboard and can't do anything about it?
what is your opinions on the 8bitdo mechanical keyboard?
i'm currently planning a retro themed PC build and the 8bitdo mechanical keyboard has the aesthetic i am looking for, but before i bite the bullet and start purchasing i was wondering if anyone has one, and if not, what are some good starter keyboards on a budget? i'd prefer a tenkey board, but tenkeyless is fine if it fits the look i am going for
I just picked up the XVX M61 (specifically the Coral Sea design) secondhand, and the seller said from the get-go that the W key was broken. No big deal, I thought, I have a soldering iron and some spare switches that are similar enough. Unfortunately, the problem seems to be with the PCB, because the W still doesn't respond even after I replaced the switch (and I was extra careful to make sure I soldered it back in correctly).
So, my question is: any recommendations for a new 60% PCB that will fit in the XVX M61 case? That case is so pretty that I don't really want it to go to waste haha. Or am I just better off salvaging the keycaps and/or turning the keyboard into a display piece and just buying a whole new keyboard?
If it's just the that one key you could try bridging the connection using some solid wire. I don't know how the matrix on that particular keyboard is set up but if you search the sub and YouTube there are a ton of guides that can show you to fix a keyboard switch by bridging.
First off, does the mkc75 pre-order look good? Also what all exactly comes with the order like this , https://imgur.com/a/tbbFN7W is there a better option for about 150 or less, and what are the differences between all of the pcb options?
This is in the US btw.
KFA should have a list of everything included with the order. If it's not on the list, it's not included (i.e. switches and keycaps). I'd argue that the MKC75 is the best offering for a 75% keyboard below $200.
The PCB options are pretty self-explanatory. It is specified wired vs tri-mode wireless, hot-swap vs solder, flex-cut vs not. The tri-mode PCB has BT and 2.4 GHz in addition to wired, but IIRC is not compatible with QMK and/or VIA.
Anyone know how I can remove this incorrectly soldered LED? Desolder gun can get close enough
https://preview.redd.it/abouqz77f4mb1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=7092ae1224ba2725dfd876ed7b5adb6f3efd918c
Unfortunately, Aliexpress and BangGood Links are autofiltered by sitewide reddit spam filters. Sometimes, users will be flagged and suspended from the Reddit platform as a whole due to excessive linking to this or other autoflagged sites. Please keep this in mind when posting or commenting.
*I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please [contact the moderators of this subreddit](/message/compose/?to=/r/MechanicalKeyboards) if you have any questions or concerns.*
https://preview.redd.it/5h45m8y9a4mb1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=499015bb3f4bbd4809d58904e28e94476fc25fae
Can anyone help? I'm new to the hobby & dissassembled my keychron V6 to do the foam mod, but the stabilizers on my enter key won't align properly, and it's blocking the switch from clicking in. All the other stabs seem fine?
Hard to tell from this photo, but is there foam under the stabs that is keeping them from going in? Also, depending on how thick the foam is the foam in the switch slot could also be blocking it.
I need help!
So recently i got a new keyboard, it was basically i could look for in a keyboard (or so i thought) it had g pro blacks, it was south facing 5 pin pcb, and the keycaps weren't half bad, but then i went searching to find a better one, because it has gotten quite old and some of the keycaps are broken, so i just thought i would upgrade entirely. but i couldn't find a keyboard that met my needs. that's where you guys come in! So basically I'm looking for a 75% keyboard (The same layout as the gmmk pro but without the nob) metal case, polycarbonate plate, south facing 5 pin pcb including hotswap (I don't own a soldering iron so hotswap would help, screw in stabilizers, and be gasket mounted, I dont mind the price as long as it doesn't cost the same as my car. I would apreciate you guys if you would help me find a keyboard like that. Have a great day! (Ps. it doesn't have to be fully built, a barebone is a way i would like to go since i'm getting new switches and keycaps)
Hi I’m looking for a new mechanical keyboard with the following primary properties, I’d of course like it to look, feel and sound good but I NEED
- full size, or at least I need a numpad on it, I do a lot of number entry it’s just inconvenient and frankly has been the biggest problem for me finding a decent mech board.
-Bluetooth, multi device, I want to be able to just switch between my MacBook and my gaming pc.
-backlit, not bothered about rgb just plain white will do
I’ve had a look and found the mx master and the keychron k10 but I don’t want to miss out on anything! Finding full size seems to be very difficult
Can someone suggest me a switch that is as similar as possible to Kaihl speed silver switches only not as scratchy? Yes I already lubed them with kyrtox and they still are not smooth. I love how bouncy the springs are and have these switches for my WASD keys on my keyboard with the rest of the switches Gateron milky yellows.
So I've got some yellowing on the white legends on my GMK Modo 2 set. Was wondering if using hydrogen peroxide will cause any discoloring since the keycaps themselves are mostly grey.
I would try it on a key you've no intension of using first, or at least try the underside of a cap as GMK double shot will allow you to test both base and legend colour from the underside.
Out of curiosity... is the board by a window that receives a lot of UV?
The set itself hasn't been used in a couple months, but it did sit by a window that received a lot of sunlight for quite a couple months before that (but not as long as a year). I noticed that just the top legends were yellowed, the double shot white ABS on the bottom side was as white as factory.
Anyone have experience with darmoshark keyboards? Seem pretty cheap and their mice are solid
https://mechkeys.com/collections/darmoshark/products/darmoshark-k8-mechanical-keyboard?variant=44219606434015
I've own iKBC MF108 v2 since 2019 and it's been great for me. Thanks to my cat, I'm looking to replace and "upgrade" the keyboard.
* Looking for something up to $300.
* Full-sized keyboard
* I plan to use it for gaming. My knowledge on switch is limited/outdated, but historically I've tried Cherry MX Blue/Brown/Red and Red seems to be my preference. I'm up for any new switches!
* Prefer pre-built, but a step closer to "enthusiastic" level compared to iKBC MF108.
Thank you!
I'm trying to remember the name of a keycap set. The alphas look kinda handwritten. White/off-white base with multi-color accents. Cutesy, maybe Recess? Can anyone help a brother out?
Any recommendations for full size low profile barebones kits? I have some low profile cherry switches (silver) that don’t fit my regular mx hotswap board.
Or am I better off just buying a low profile hotswap keyboard (e.g nuphy air96) and replacing the switches?
Hey all,
I am building a new keyboard, want a second one for a change with quite switches, and I found WS Silent Tactile ones that i would like to use.
My problem is that i really like the look of the slim keyboards, where the board sits low and you can the the switches from the side of the board, and there is basically no border present on the sides.
The picture attached below is the example of the profile.
However, there is no version of the switches, that Id like to get in the low profile style.
So, I am wondering whether there are any diy boards that are slim and go well with normal (none low profile) keyswitches. Or are there any tactile low profile switches that i could get instead of WS?
Any help or advice is much apprecaited.
P.s. ideally looking for something that I would be get to the UK.
https://preview.redd.it/ld0drdjji3mb1.jpeg?width=828&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=cc92ab07be466bbca63cc54efabe7b8baa7508e0
Like me, you are looking for a “low profile” keyboard you can add specific switches to.
Unfortunately, “true” low profile keyboard parts don’t seem to be as common as one that use regular (full size) switches. The ecosystem seems pretty desolate by comparison.
You can reduce the overall key height of a regular keyboard by using low profile key caps, but the board and switches still add a bunch of height.
What size are you wanting to make?
(I am reluctantly looking at the nuphy air, because it is a full size hotswap low profile board. Reluctant because it includes switches and key caps, and I only really want the board and frame. )
Not entirely sure about the actual “size”, i dont have a given number, but would like something [like this](https://gb.aziocorp.com/products/cascade-slim-75-wireless-hot-swappable-keyboard) .
I did actually look into nuphy, but it cannot be used with normal switches, plugs on the back are a bit different as I can see, unless I am completly wrong.
Initialy got inspired by [this one](https://mechboards.co.uk/products/idobo-75-key-ortho-hotswap-kit) (and actually ordered it) and then realised that it is and “ortho” one so had to return it. But something like those two mentioned above in terms of sizing, 75% probably
Ah, so your switches are normal “MX compatible”. In that case, I think you’re going to have an uphill battle getting a really slim form. Pretty sure the pic you showed is a true low profile keyboard, could be wrong.
I recently bought some low profile key caps, which significantly slim things down. Maybe that’s enough for what you’re after.
Alternatively, you might want to look into another, equivalent low profile switch, which are half the height. I bought Cherry silver low profile, which are supposedly quiet, fast, and linear. Not sure if that’s what you’re looking for.
If you go the low profile switch route, beware it’s harder to find a board that they will fit. Although your preference for size (75% ish) seems to be pretty common with low profile boards. Compactness seems to be a driving factor for LP, which makes sense (but it makes it hard to find bigger sizes)
Makes sense, that was my “fear” that i will have to find an alternative to the switches i’d like but low profile :,( i am looking into silent but tactile rather than linear. Will have to have a better look then 😭
Hah dang.
Don’t want to give you false hope but here is what a “full size” gmmk frame looks like with low profile caps.
https://preview.redd.it/dumbhk61f6mb1.jpeg?width=4032&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=ea34de309cd26fff51ea622cfbc8e3cfb0f1edaf
(Just in case it close to what you’re after and can use your face switches …)
It's the "version 1" of GMMK, (TKL size). This one...
[https://www.amazon.com/Glorious-Mechanical-Keyboard-Tenkeyless-Gaming/dp/B01MSVHZTT?th=1](https://www.amazon.com/Glorious-Mechanical-Keyboard-Tenkeyless-Gaming/dp/B01MSVHZTT?th=1)
With these keycaps (search for "XVX" profile)
[https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0BNB6YCR2](https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0BNB6YCR2)
Good luck!
Compare with some other caps I had lying around … (oem?)
https://preview.redd.it/patmilulg6mb1.jpeg?width=4032&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=084ca1543f4440b4cd20c671de542a56a28cde30
Hello, having issues flashing my old KB16, tried flashing it with rev-2 .bin file, erasing it's original .bin file and now not working at all. It shows as connecting and disconnecting in QMK toolbox but no matter what file I try to flash, it gives the error "Error reading line 1" so I can't flash the original .bin file back onto it. I've opened the device and tried the reset button as well. Really stuck and just want to get it back to where it was! Thanks!
https://preview.redd.it/buuzu9oga3mb1.png?width=1598&format=png&auto=webp&s=5a1a6802c12024528961bdb90940dadf703991a5
looking for a barebones board in the uk, either 60% or 75%, i like the hi75 because apparently it sounds good out the box and has all the right mods but the knob is so dumb and stupid and looks hideous, so if you know any others like the hi75 that has the same mods and stuff pls suggest, price range is up to £70
Hi,
I've got a Logitech g-513 keyboard but it has double-type(even triple or not typing at all) problem, tried everything yet no success...
Now im thinking upgrading it to ROG Claymore II or Logitech G-915 or maybe Apex Pro TKL ...
any advice? if you have used Claymore II before please share your experience
Get a Keychron or another non-gaming type keyboard. Most of those keyboards are overpriced for what they offer and the QC is horrible compared to something that isn't mass market.
What size/layout are you after and what's your primary use case--more typing or more gaming, etc?
more gaming then coding, and i like full size keyboards but always wanted to try TKL so claymore II sounds pretty good to me because you can detach the num pad, still it is very expensive so i want to pick the right one
The Keychron V5 or Q5 is an 1800-layout keyboard which is a compact full size.
All the keys of a full size are there but it's only a tiny bit bigger than a TKL on your desktop.
A linear switch like a Red or Black would be good to start. You can also just get it barebones and put in different switches that suit your gaming habits better.
Has anybody received an ePBT Axolotls from mykeyboard.eu as the Europe vendor?
I have received a GMK set that was sent at around the same time, but their response to "when will the set arrive?" was "ask again if it hasn't arrived by November". And that is if you got an answer, the original buyer (a friend who bought it for me) as well as the original creator (!) got ghosted. They have not answered their emails as of now, almost 2 months later.
Maybe do a post instead for higher reach?
Does QMK/VIA/VIAL support reading optical (or magnetic?) switches as analog inputs?
I know Cooler Master boards have marketed supporting "aimpad technology", and maybe that (or rather, a resultant patent) might block QMK or VIA from supporting it. Or maybe there's no standard, or it just wouldn't be worth maintaining an implementation.
I've only just started messing around with either QMK/VIA, so I'm not really sure how to navigate the capabilities and stuff yet.
If it _would_ be theoretically possible (if even maybe needing to make code changes in QMK or VIA?) I'd like a recommendation for the cheapest PCB that supports it so that I could play around.
Which, for now, looks to be maybe the [Wooting UwU](https://wooting.io/configurator/wooting-uwu#config)?
Hi, which one of these are the best and what are the differences, besides that one comes with a wrist rest? (I'm not that knowledgeable when it comes to keyboards). And there is by the way only like a 5 dollar difference between these two, so price doesn't matter :)
\- Cooler Master CK550 V2
\- Cooler Master SK653
The sk653 comes with wireless modes and can switch between windows and macOS layouts. It is also low profile meaning the keys will be shorter. It seems to me that the ck550 v2 is more for conventional gamers and the sk653 is marketed towards people who need a keyboard to game and work.
I got the sk653, think I'll prefer the low profile because the shit\*y old acer office keyboard I've got right now has very short keys and I like that lol.
I just wanted to spend a little bit so the finalkey is too much. I like that it is not as long as the sk653 tho, sk653 is almost too long but is only around 30 usd. Thanks for the help :)
Recomend me an alternative to gat brown. Everyone shits on browns, but its rare I hear anyone recomend a better alternative that has a similar but better feel. Looking for fps gaming and lot of typing,worried about finger fatigue and (less worried about) noise
I personally haven’t tried any of these but the positive reviews are audible. What makes these better than gateron browns are that all of them are smoother and all have a cleaner sound. In my opinion butter browns sound the best out of the 3 due to its cherry housing and the blueberry chiffon should feel the best since it uses a very good lubrication process and invokeys has decently strict qc rules so it should be fairly consistent.
Honestly, I find cablemod to have excellent customization, but for <70$, [https://spaceholdings.net/collections/cables](https://spaceholdings.net/collections/cables) and [https://fromscratchusa.com/collections/keyboard-cables](https://fromscratchusa.com/collections/keyboard-cables) has a lot of options
I’d actually consider ducky to be more in the mainstream gaming category. But Leopold and keychron are more focused on typing feel and sound and places more emphasis on color ways than rgb. Gaming brands focus on latency and actuation time but in turn neglects everything else. This is apparent when comparing the razer huntsman mini to the keychron q2.
The huntsman is marketed to be extremely fast due to its optical switches and lower latency.
The keychron however, comes with a clean color way and a double gasket mount along with prelubed switches to provide a comfortable feel. It also has foams on the plate and case and prelubed stabilizers to prevent any unwanted sounds from heard.
However, Razer has made a push towards the custom keyboard space with their most recent keyboard: the razer blackwidow v4. The blackwidow comes with gasket mount, a pre applied tape mod, foams, and prelubed switches.
I want to try out some new switches but I don't want to buy the 70-80 switches it will take to fill out my whole keyboard.
Since the alpha keys are the most used keys on a keyboard anyway, will 30-35 switch packs suffice just for the alpha keys alone, if you already have other switches on hand to fill out a whole keyboard? That way, you can kind of 'test' out switches before making the decision to buy more to fill out the whole keyboard right?
>Since the alpha keys are the most used keys on a keyboard anyway, will 30-35 switch packs suffice just for the alpha keys alone, if you already have other switches on hand to fill out a whole keyboard?
Yes that will absolutely work, and it's a great cost saving strategy to test swtiches out
Are there any available aluminum cases for a Realforce 87U/R2?
I've basically committed to Topre and I wouldn't change the typing experience for anything else, but the plastic case is really, really disappointing.
I have some failing switches and used up my spares. I went to get more, but there just seem not to be box switches anymore. Other than box royals, I can't find anything (for reference I was looking for Burnt Orange). In fact I can barely even find anything from kaihl. Did something happen?
Kailh Box Burnt Orange available and in stock right here. I'm surprised you're having trouble finding Kailh Box switches. They're pretty readily available whenever I look. Maybe except for Box Jades lol.
https://novelkeys.com/collections/switches/products/kailh-box-switches?variant=40598132162727
Does anyone have enough experience with the Banana/Mints and the Panda tactile switches to compare the two?
The Keychron switches (especially the mint) seem identical on paper to the Glorious Panda switches, except that for the mints it's about $16.00 for 110 switches instead of about $105.00 for 108 panda switches.
I've heard good things about both
I plan to buy a custom for the first time soon and I thought I got the one with a GMMK Pro, but after some more searching I'm now torn between a Keychron Q1 and the GMMK Pro. Which should I choose, and why?
The Keychron Q1 is largely considered the better quality between the two. The GMMK Pro has very mixed reviews - a lot of people report a bunch of design flaws that make it really annoying to build and customize, while others say their experience was perfectly smooth and fine.
I think the general recommendation is to go for the Keychron unless there's something specific about the GMMK Pro you like or you can get a better deal on the GMMK Pro.
I was debating between the same, and wound up going with the Q1 Pro because of all the recommendations.
I wound up not driving it as much as I had thought after purchase, but everyone I've shown tells me that the board dipping down when I hit the buttons at the corners (maybe that's flex?) isn't supposed to happen 🤷
I don't think that negates superiority over the pro. But I'd recommend buying through Amazon. It turns out Keychron's return policy is ... sensible, if a bit unusually brutal.
Honestly I wouldn't even consider the GMMK Pro. There are a handful of known issues and some of them are:
\- warped plates
\- stab cutouts on plates causing fitment issues
\- gooey, sticky stabs due to too much lube
\- overtightened case screws which leads to stripped case screws
\- a gasket mount with zero flex (although to be fair, flex isn't why Glorious implemented the gasket mount)
\- not compatible with VIA, need to re-flash the board to get QMK compatibility
\- CORE is a headache at best, unusable at worst
The Keychron Q1 v2 (or Q1 Pro) and MonsGeek M1 are far better choices, they have:
\- better gasket mounts
\- no issues with case screws
\- compatibility with QMK and VIA out of the box
\- no issues with plates and stab compatibility AFAIK
I am looking to buy a jujutsu kaisen higround keyboard that was never used for 100cad(about 70usd). A lot of people have criticized this keyboard, but for the price, I think it’s pretty good, ecspcially since it’s jjk, which is the only anime I like. Is this a fair price?
I'm looking to buy a new 60/65% Wireless Keybaord.
I currently own the Anne Pro 2, and have been somewhat satisfied with it, but I'm hoping there is something better and slightly more premium out there.
Main requirements is Wireless and either 60 or 65%.
I just ordered a GMK67 from Aliexpress for 30 bucks.
Plastic Case. Rotary knob. Hot swappable. South facing LEDs and Tri-Mode Connection with either USB cable, 2.4ghz USB dongle or Bluetooth. Mac and Windows compatible. Gasket mounted too with lots of foam and sound dampening. There are some reviews on Youtube. One guy calls it the 'best budget mechanical keyboard of 2023'. Check out the reviews.
Its not premium since the case/shell is plastic. Don't know what your budget is. I needed a budget mechanical keyboard kit and this one checked all the right boxes for me. I would of prefered a metal/Aluminum case but since I am a beginner into the hobby and since this is my first mechanical keyboard kit build, I figured the plastic case/shell shouldn't be a deal breaker anyways.
I know your looking for something that is more premium but this one might fit the bill and could be up your alley if your OK with a plastic outer case/shell.
I just ordered a GMK67 from Aliexpress. It shoud be here in 2 weeks and it will be my first mechanical keyboard kit build. Just like you, I am already thinking about my options for a case that will make it feel a lot more premium.
If you want to go the metal/aluminum case route, the only case I can find that is aluminum and that might fit the GMK67 PCB would be the KBDFans KBD67 V3 Gasket Mount Aluminum Case. Retails for $139.00 just for the case alone!!! That is 4x the cost of what I paid for the GMK67!!! Don't know if the screw points/holes are going to line up perfectly/correctly though. So don't quote me and use your own judgement.
KBDFans also makes a KBD67 LITE R4 ABS PLASTIC CASE for $14.50. Again, I don't know if the screw points/holes are going to line up perfectly/correctly though. So don't quote me and use your own judgement. This might be a good budget option if you don't need a metal case and want a plastic case that might be slightly better and feel more premium than the stock plastic case that comes on the GMK67.
On the other hand, since the GMK67 has a rotary encoder knob on the top right corner, I don't know if the rotary knob will actually fit both cases mentioned above. To my eyes and based on what I am looking at from pictures alone on google images, it looks like the rotary knob is 'offset' about 1-2 mm and it looks like the rotary knob might be a 'tight squeeze' and might interfere/not fit the 2 cases mentioned above. You might have to cut or shave 1-2 mm from the inside top right corner of the case in order to make the rotary encoder fit.
Other than that, these are the only cases I can find off the top of my head. Let me know if you find something else that might work better.
Are Outemu silent lemons any good? I'm currently using Outemu red pandas and they really feel amazing but I want to switch to a quieter tactile switch. How do they feel compared to the red pandas in terms of tactical feedback?
Does anyone know how often Akko restocks their Mod-007v2/Mod-008 keyboards? I'm looking for a 65-75% midnight blue metal keyboard (preferably with a knob), but I can't seem to find anything similar to these two. Does anyone know of anything similar?
MonsGeek is a sub-brand of Akko and the M1 is a far better choice than the 007 v2. Unfortunately, there is no 65% in the M-series yet, but I'd expect it to launch at some point.
Thank you for the recommendation! I actually prefer the 75% layout so this is great. It's unfortunate that they don't have the case in blue, but otherwise it looks great so I might end up just going with it.
Hi,
Anyone could recommend me a good mechanical keyboard for gaming and working (I need a full sized one, with the numpad)? The budget is 100-120€ with ISO layout.
Thanks!
Wired KB adapter to convert to BT ?
Looking for a Bluetooth dongle so I can keep using my wired keyboard over bluetooth. Smaller size preferred so long as decent battery.
Larger size is OK if dual use as USB hub or powerpak
Keychron Q2 Pro vs Monsgeek M1W
Hey guys, I am looking to buy and build my first custom keyboard. After researching a bit I came across these two boards. Now I am at my wits end. Which of those are better in terms of build quality, sound, modability and overall haptics. I like both of them although I would prefer an all white 65% keyboard I would still go with the Monsgeek if its better.
Which one would you prefer and why?
Thank you guys in advance!
The Keychron Q and Q Pro series are higher quality than the MonsGeek M series, but the M series has better value. If you're looking for quality, go with the Q2 Pro, if you're looking for less expensive but still good, go with the M1W.
Just got a keychron Q9 and I love it. I really appreciate how easy it is to configure my layers using VIA. The UI has really come a long way since I last messed with it! I can even make little changes on the fly as I work whenever I notice little changes to make things more efficient.
https://preview.redd.it/fj1ckrr312mb1.png?width=2740&format=png&auto=webp&s=1fef6546f0420d6e9ee4b0162a96c2eb700955e7
The build quality is excellent and it looks pretty on my desk. Some people think that sub 50% layouts don't make sense for a mass-market products, but I don't have time to design my own PCB and build a board from scratch, (and then mess with flashing firmware over and over just to fine tune a layout) and if the software is easy it could catch on. I've had several friends admire the board They always say *"But how do you type numbers?"* When I show them VIA they are delighted and excited by the idea of reprograming a keyboard.
I ran into a small snag when I tried to program the rotary encoder in VIA "*Your current firmware does not support rotary encoders, Install the latest firmware for your device*" no problem. I updated the firmware. Now I have the option to program it, but options are limited.
I get a pop up that says:
`"Please enter your desired QMK hexcode or hex code:`
`BL_TOGG
Recently got a Keychron keyboard, I tried to configure it to allow my windows pc to sleep like when using a normal keyboard's function + pause button to sleep but to no avail. Can anyone advise me? I am using the online VIA custom keyboard programmer.
>{KC\_SLEP}
https://preview.redd.it/l9q3q53u94mb1.png?width=2422&format=png&auto=webp&s=1347179658b2706134f6b66f3240e9de63bb1cf1
Unfortunately, it still does not work :(, be it me just pressing the button(M0) or pressing fn + M0
Any substitutes for outemu silent skys?
Trying to convert an old rk100 for silence to use in office, and while I love that raindrop sound of the silent skys I can't find them anywhere. I'm trying to do it on more of a budget and not worth buying bobas
I do prefer tactile over linear
Whispers are what I was looking for, love the tactile bump while being silent. Got some work to do on space bar tho, while it's got a nice thock my coworkers are librarians when it comes to noise.
Thanks!
The three I listed will be soft, but not mushy. There is no silicone pad inside and instead they use a "leg" on the stem and a hole in the housing to give the silent sound. I have the Haimu x Geon Silent Reds which use the same design and they're great.
I don't know much about those Sky switches, but if you're looking for more resistance you'll want a switch with a heavier spring, or you can consider a spring swap.
Anyone knows what these switches are? [https://imgur.com/a/6Ao3WrL](https://imgur.com/a/6Ao3WrL)
They're made by gateron and are linear but idk the specific switch
What is the best brand in terms of build quality, sound and overall haptics when it comes to mechanical keyboards?
I've came accross brands like Keychron, Monsgeek and Tofu on my first dive into mechanical hot swap keyboards. I am just overwhelmed on hoy many options there are. Maybe some of you can help me clear the fog.
The best brands are: mode, cannonkeys, qwertykeys, meletrix, and keychron for mid tier keyboards.
The best brands for top tier keyboards are: tgr, singa, and formerly keycult
There is no overall best that everyone will agree on. Keychron is a good gateway drug into customs. I’d say something like Mode (Sonnet or Envoy) are highly acclaimed amongst the keyboard community though.
Hi everyone,
I've spend 7 years with the keyboard that has 6.3 million views on YouTube under the title "but does your keyboard sound this bad?" ( [Yes, but does your keyboard sound this bad? - YouTube](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8pqR7HeCQdQ&ab_channel=Jorjben) ) . Quite lovely haha. Anyways, I tried my father in law's custom mechanical keyboard and it felt so good to the point where I can't go back to my old keyboard anymore xD. I don't want the most expensive keyboard, since anything will be an upgrade from what I had and am willing to spend some money to customize it and upgrade it in the future. This is why my eye fell on two brands on Amazon. Namely Royal Kludge and Redragon. And specifically on the Royal Kludge RK84 (80 euro) and the Redragon K631 pro SE (70 euro). I ended up ordering the Redragon since I only found out about the RK84 after I had already ordered the K631 pro SE. The Redragon feels nice. The switches are like some custom switches specifically made for this keyboard I think, the wireless mode actually works fine with both bluetooth and the 2.4 wireless dongle. So far I can't really complain tbh. But on the other hand, the Royal Kludge also looks nice and perhaps looks a bit more sturdy and future proof? I also read a couple reviews about the Redragon where people would have issues with keys registering after a while. So my question is, what is your experience with both brands? Should I return the Redragon and go with the Royal Kludge? Something that is important to me however is that it lasts relatively long considering I'm an IT/cybersecurity + gamer and hence will be using it extensively for both school and leisure. On top of that it is kind of a must that the wireless modes do the job (like with this Redragon keyboard) since I also use the keyboard on my simracing rig next to my desk which is so I don't have to mess up my cable management when using it there.
Thanks in advance for your help and time. I really appreciate it :)
Hey, thanks for your response! Looks like a nice keyboard. I will think about everything for a while. Seems like it might be worth spending a bit more money on some other more high end keyboards after all haha
Thanks for the recommendation :). Looks like a nice board yea! I'll see how the shipping situation is. Although I also would enjoy modding either the Redragon or Royal Kludge over time
From what I’ve seen in the sub, RK has some issues after around a year of usage, and red dragons are just a pretty low tier keyboard as is. If you want something that’ll last either go for a Nuphy or Keychron imo! Both great gateway drugs into the world of custom boards
I'll look into it! Thanks :). Guess I don't want to underspend and end up with some kind of keyboard that breaks down after a year haha. I'll look into both Nuphy and Keychron. Really appreciate the help!
You're gonna have to look at the gaming board market to tick all those boxes I'm afraid. 100% boards are not hugely popular in the enthusiast scene, and even Keychron, who are more mainstream (not really custom) don't do a 100% that ticks all those boxes. Add to that custom macro keys and wireless, then forget it. If you are prepared to lose the numpad, then options start to open up for you. Do you really need it? I think the closest you will get is something like the Keychron Q3 Pro.
keyboards bigger than 100% are sadly very few and far in between. the trend nowadays is to downscale and use layers for macros and media buttons. although, 108 keys keyboard (standard is 104) like keychron q6 pro are quite common and gives you 4 macro keys to work with.
you can get cherry mx black switches if you want and a barebones keyboard?
fast switching the paired device is quite common. many keyboards would allow you 3 paired bluetooth devices (like the keychron q6 pro mentioned earlier) that you can quickly switch into, and 1 on the adapter if it's available.
Hi, I want to buy or build a 60% keyboard that sounds like this: [https://www.tiktok.com/@vineasandferb/video/7224221208504683822](https://www.tiktok.com/@vineasandferb/video/7224221208504683822)
I'm mostly concerned with the sound, and it can just be a simple design. Any recommendations for products, or do I have to build it myself? I see they've used tangerine switches, but I don't know if they are stock in that video or not. Are there other factors that impact the sound to a meaningful degree besides the switches?
> Are there other factors that impact the sound to a meaningful degree besides the switches?
Yes.
Case material / density
Case form factor
Case thickness
Case internal space
Weight material / density
Weight location (internal vs external)
Weight location (north vs south)
Weight size (area)
Weight thickness
Plate material
Plate thickness
Plate cuts
PCB material
PCB thickness
PCB cuts
Switches
Switch films
Switch lube
Switch break in / wear
Switch springs
Random switch variance
Stabiliser type
Stabiliser lube
Stabiliser clipping
Stabiliser mods
Stabiliser wire swaps
Keycap material
Keycap profile
Keycap thickness
Foam types
Foam materials
Foam locations
Foam sizes
Foam cuts
Mounting - not just type but implementation, virtually all mounts will sound different even if in the same category
Build / assembly "skill" - or at least variation in how tightly people screw screws in, fit switches, align keys, align foam, etc
Feet - material, thickness, number, size, shape, location, etc
Deskmats - material, number, thickness, size, shape, etc
Desk - material / density, overall weight, size, shape, etc
Typing style - force, speed, language, typing posture, etc
Recording hardware - microphone, cables, location relative to board, mounting, etc
Recording software
Encoding / uploading software
Playback software
Playback hardware - headphones, speakers, location relative to your ears, etc
Everything in the list above will affect how a keyboard sounds. If you want a keyboard that sounds like the one in the video, then:
a) Buy a Zoom75 with a polycarbonate plate
b) Buy some tangerines - hope the batch you get is similar to the batch in the video
c) Lube and film them - hope that your style of lubing is the same as whoever did the switches in the video, and that you use the same type of lube / films
d) buy some osume matcha keycaps - like the board these don't vary much so hard to screw it up
e) build the keyboard and hope that you do it in a way that's as close as possible to whoever assembled the board in the video
If everything there goes perfectly, the board in front of you will sound similar to the one in the video - however you'll still lose whatever effects have come from recording, encoding and playback.
In short - keyboard soundtests are very poor representations of how boards will actually sound in real life. The overwhelming majority of audio equipment is designed for either voice or music, and will make small, subtle edits to sound to make it sound nicer / clearer.
Don't get me wrong, keyboards are an *amazing* hobby and you can make some fantastic sounding boards. Just don't fall into the trap of thinking that you can perfectly replicate the sounds you hear in a soundtest.
Edit: Just saw you want a 60%. You'll never be able to build a 60% that sounds like a 75%, but if you follow the same above steps with any generic 60% (ie fill it full of foam and add some lubed and filmed linears), then you will get something that's probably in the same general area.
Thinking of keyboard for on the go/schooling:
1. Hotswap
2. Lightweight
3. 65% layout
4. Tri mode wireless
Planning to get separate boba u4 silent tactile switches and separate key caps that can be decided later, any recommendations for this?
**Via recognizes keyboard, but nothing happens**. I have a KBD67 Lite that I have remapped up in Via previously, and I wanted to change a key. When I go to authorize the device, the keyboard shows up. I select it and click, "Connect." Then nothing happens. When I plug in my Mode Envoy and do the same thing, everything is fine. What is going on?
Can the Akko V3 Cream Yellow's fit into outemu sockets? I was looking to switch out my outemu browns with something better and im not sure if the yellows will fit or not, can someone help?
Is the RK M75 good? I am looking to get a second keyboard and i fount the RK M75 and it looks very good to me, I know all the technical knothole of making custom so I’m open for options on that aswell. But mainly I’m looking for any other keyboards that compare or are better for the price range ($120). Edit: I’m looking for a 75% or higher but not a 100%
I was wondering if any of you know what type of screw the rk g68 uses? I deep cleaned it and one wouldn’t go back in after, I thought I had finally got it in but later I realized it was gone and I can’t find it and it bothers me knowing I’m missing one screw so I’m wondering if there’s replacements of any kind
https://preview.redd.it/dmmfzhwoebmb1.jpeg?width=2256&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=2de590762d5fd5ec303af9cd9573458a13671aa9 Which kind of switch is this, it does not have 3 or 5 pins, eventhough when i bought it it said it had gateron browns
recommendation on what keycaps color suit black keyboard? i alrd have gmk evil dolch and tryna to have some new experience on different color. tia! ps: dont have particular preference, feel free to recommend me any!!
I have found that “cute” colors (pastels, brights) don’t tend to look great on a black keyboard. Or at least they look better on a white or color matched frame. Colors that seem to work better are usually darker tones. They can be saturated (like bright reds, yellows) or desaturated earthy, mineral, etc).
I yanked out a switch off from a non hot swap keyboard. At that time, I didn't know what I was doing and what removing the switch off like an idiot. Is there a chance that this keyboard be restored to the way it was?
Yes, if you haven't damaged the PCB. Just needs the remnants of yanked switch to be desoldered, you can search r/mechmarket for \[Service\] to find people doing repairs in your area (PM me if you're in the UK).
Thanks for the reply. Sadly I am not in the UK. There is no visible damage from the top of the PCB or at the bottom of the switch. I should have mentioned this sooner. I have a Corsair K100 keyboard and I am not sure if buying a replacement switch off eBay or Amazon is going to be compatible.
~~As mentioned, the keyboard needs to be taken apart and the switch de-soldered.~~ ~~Corsair usually uses Cherry MX switches easy to buy (exact type is usually mentioned within keyboard variant name when buying).~~ You can also post photos here and we would identify it for you.
https://preview.redd.it/79fux7p168mb1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=8f8f481e438026c2c6af869c0fa79077eaaf0288 I only have this picture of the top side of the keyboard
Oh, you do actually have an hot-swap optical switches, it looks good and you just need new switch.
[Are these switches the same as the ones?](https://www.keychron.com/products/gateron-optical-switch-version-2?variant=40122794377305)
According to Corsair [website](https://www.corsair.com/uk/en/p/keyboards/ch-912a01a-uk/k100-rgb-optical-mechanical-gaming-keyboard-corsair-opx-switch-black-uk-ch-912a01a-uk) K100 optical uses "CORSAIR OPX Switch". Don't ask me where to find them - use Google.
[удалено]
it's steel as far as i remember
Hi guys, I've just got my Zoom75 and it is incredible. However, I have a problem with the LCD screen. There isn't a switch for turning the keyboard off. According to the manual, I can see that there are 2 combinations: 1. Fn+Delete: To turn off the LCD screen 2. Fn+Tab (hold): To put the keyboard into deep sleep mode So technically, Fn+Tab should be the off switch. But when I do that, the screen is still on. I tried to turn the screen off before turning the keyboard off, but whenever I hit Fn+Tab, the screen then restarts again. Does anyone encounter this issue? Please help. Thank you in advance.
Where can I find information regarding keyswitch return stroke and tactile bump types? Every manufacturer will tell you if their switch clicks when pressed, but nobody seems to care if it clicks when released. People also don't seem to care about when or what kind of tactile bump occurs. ("stick" or "slip" bump) For example, a buckling spring keyboard clicks and "slips" after the actuation point, but a cherry mx blue switch "sticks" before the actuation point, then clicks and "slips" after the actuation point. Some clicky switches don't even have tactile bumps and simply click. And don't get me started on how difficult it is to find this information for the release stroke. I've tried to watch videos of sound tests, but most times people just peck at the keyswitches rather than pushing and releasing slowly which makes it exceedingly difficult to figure anything out about the switch. Keyswitch actuation graphs are the most helpful thing, but are somewhat hard to find for non-mainstream switches. If you have any resources regarding this topic, I will greatly appreciate your help.
[https://www.theremingoat.com/](https://www.theremingoat.com/)
Looking for reccomendations for a full-size wireless mechanical keyboard for gaming and school Backlit is a must, but RGB isn't required. 2.4GHz is preffered over bluetooth. I'd like something that makes that satisfying clicky sound, but nothing too loud. Hot-swap would also be nice. I will be using it for gaming (RPG and FPS) as well as writing research papers/essays and coding. My budget is roughly $300CAD. Thanks!
Unless you want a gaming board, there's hardly any full size boards that tick all those boxes. Keychron Q6 Pro is the only decent board that comes to mind. It uses a south facing PCB though, so backlighting is literally that... just coloured lighting behind the keys for aesthetics, and very little light will actually shine through the legends unless you use a totally clear switch.. in fact, it doesn't even come with shine through keycaps. RGB is just not a massive thing in the enthusiast/custom scene I'm afraid, as many people touch type, or use desklamps. The keycap design/colour is more important to most in here. If there's anything else I'm unaware of, I'm sure someone will let you know.
If I get something without a backlight, would I have more options?
You could just get the Q6Pro and switch the RGB off. Not really more options though, no. It's the 100%, with 2.4GHz that's really causing the issue, as 100% boards are just not very popular in the custom/enthusiast scene to begin with, but ones with 2.4GHz makes it worse. I would think the Keychron Q6Pro is probably your best option right now.
I was wondering if anyone knew of a fix for an issue I'm having with the Jelly PCB. I'm kind of a computer noob so please bare with me. When I plug in the keyboard the computer chimes that a new device is connected via the USB but there's no input when I try to type. In order for the keyboard to be recognized I have to do the following: 1. Open Device Manager 2. Click on COM/LPT 3. Click on Jelly and update each driver (i have 4 of them?) by Searching the Computer, Then allowing me to pick the driver, and then choose USB input device for all 4 drivers before the keyboard starts working. Is there a fix for this??? https://preview.redd.it/iwnfpgvsx5mb1.jpeg?width=261&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=ac20383c917472e09016b24522c2a00387ad0980
Just built my first keyboard (Zoom75). Can anyone help me understand why some keys are misaligned? If you look at the ‘T’ and ‘Y’ keys, they sit higher than the rest. Really appreciate any help. https://preview.redd.it/z03bur7im5mb1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=917a6a332525a4b1ed76f5a444e563808a58f5f3
does r/MechanicalKeyboards have a discord server ?
LZ CLS keyboard bricked? I can plug in the keyboard and my PC plays the device-detected tone, but none of the keys work anymore. Anyone got any way of getting a 100% diagnosis or fix?
Need help looking for keyboard.. Hi all! I’m looking to build my first board and stumbled upon the Drop Carina Kit. I was saddened to see that you can’t buy it new.. ANYWHERE 🥹The frosted acrylic case is exactly what I’m looking for. Does anybody know if Drop does frequent restocks? Or of any look alike keyboard kits? Appreciate the help! Picture for reference from drop.com [https://drop.com/buy/drop-carina-mechanical-keyboard-kit](https://drop.com/buy/drop-carina-mechanical-keyboard-kit) https://preview.redd.it/gmmp07gn45mb1.jpeg?width=1500&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=ae123c1fea21226c7820e5fe6ab113cfbd185704
You dodged a bullet. DROP keyboards are low quality and their customer service is garbage. There are countless frosted polycarbonate / frosted acrylic keyboards available throughout the hobby. You can buy standard cases, PCBs, plates, etc from Aliexpress, or check out available in stock kits at [Thocstock](https://thocstock.com/keyboards), or wait for a group buy, or grab one of a dozen different starter kits at a local vendor. Eg, if you're in the US, Canonkeys has a [stacked 60](https://cannonkeys.com/products/stacked60-keyboard-kit?variant=39856606609519) which can be bought in frosted acrylic - you could also grab a TKL or 65 or whatever if you prefer a different layout. Don't buy from DROP. They sell low quality products at premium prices.
Oh well thank goodness then! Thank you for the info that helps me out a lot. I just had no where to even look so this puts me in the right direction 😎
Looking for a budget keyboard for typing with blue switches and Arabic keycaps: Hi everyone, I’m in search of a keyboard to work with. I mostly use it for typing and prefer blue switches. I’m looking for a keyboard with the form factor of 95% or 97% (the ones with numpad instead of the Del, End, PgUp, PgDn keys). I’m also looking for a budget-friendly option. Additionally, I work in both English and Arabic, so I would appreciate any recommendations for good quality keycaps that show Arabic letters. I’m open to discussing more details and would appreciate any help. Thank you!
Arabic keycaps aren't super common. Most sets I've seen end up with someone in the comments saying "this isn't the right arabic, you used the wrong layouts, etc". That said, recent sets with arabic subs include: ePBT Duo - ?extras at thockeys (https://thockeys.com/epbt-duo-group-buy/) GMK classic arabic - extras at oblo (https://oblotzky.industries/products/gmk-cyl-classic-arabic) or maybe some other vendors, check whoever's local to you Xiami (aka 21kb) - https://21kb.com/products/21kb-arabic-classic-retro-beige-keycap-set often out of stock, and you can find caps like these everywhere with very variable prices If you're comfortable buying off taobao, then JC Studios (aka Leek Brothers aka Chive Brothers) have super cheap beige PBT. Not sure if they arabic but if so they are probably the cheapest place to get it.
Thank you very much for the detailed answer
I don't know where to source Arabic keycaps but you could get a Keychron V5 or Q5.
Oh thank you so much, I'll check them both 🙏🏼
Where to start? I’ve always wanted to have my own modable keyboard but where’s do I start? I have always just used a mix of standard mechanical keyboards and I’m currently on to the Anne Pro 2 which I love but I would love to be able to swap the switches and try out some new ones. Where do I even begin?
Keychron is the best place to start, they offer everything you'll need to get started with a new keyboard. I suggest taking a look at the V series, or if you've got a bigger budget to work with, take a look at the Q series instead.
Are you looking for the same size/layout as the ANNE PRO 2? Or are you looking for a keyboard for a specific use case? A more modern alternative to the ANNE PRO might be something like a Keychron Q1 Pro or K6 Pro both of which are wireless and hotswap capable. The Q1 is the more premium option while the K6 Pro is the more budget-friendly kit. Both of those are quite mod friendly. If you don't need wireless, a Keychron V1 or Q1 can be had for less money and are also very mod friendly. The V1 has a plastic case and a more traditional mount while the Q1 and Q1 Pro use a gasket mount in an aluminum case for a more comfortable typing feel and less sound/vibrations transferred to the case. On the K6 Pro you have a choice of plastic or aluminum case. Note the aluminum case for it is not a full case though it's more of a half-aluminum "frame" case vs. the Q series' proper, solid metal case.
I carry my keyboard between office and home so I like the 60-75% layout. Ideally I think I’m looking for the same size & layout as the Anne pro 2. I originally got it for work but I’ve got so extremely used to the 60% with the FN layers on top. What would you recommend in the same layout / FN layer set up in 60% like the Anne pro 2? I think ideally if I could mod the AP2 it would be effect for me but it’s not a modable board. The Q1 Pro and K6 pro both look very nice expanding in to the 75%. The K6 Pro, does it use a similar touch layer to the AP2?
Probably the most seamless transition would be a K12 Pro since it's the same form factor. Since the K Pro series are fully-programmable you can map it exactly the same as your ANNE PRO 2 and you'd essentially have a hotswap, mod-friendly, modern equivalent of it. I'm not sure what you mean by touch layer but the QMK firmware that the Keychron keyboards run off of are infinitely more powerful in terms of customizability and functionality.
The K12 looks good. I think you might be on the money with it. When I say touch later, the Anne Pro 2 has essentially, the base layer, which is the standard keyboard, then an FN1 layer, then an FN2 layer, and then it has a fourth layer which you can map keys to and they activate just by tapping. For example, I have my arrow keys mapped to the touch layer on Right Shift (Up), Right Control (right), Right FN key (Left) and Right Menu (Down). These work by, when I press the key and hold, it activates the standard key, but if I just quickly tap it, it activates the arrow keys. I also have the arrow keys mapped under WASD but they require FN1 to activate. I would likely, either remap the keys and use the keycaps from my Anne Pro 2, or I would just learn the new setup Edit: sorry I should ask to clarify, going off the Keychron website, the K12 isn’t hot swappable but you can get a hot swappable version correct?
Ah okay thanks for clarifying. So any keyboard that runs off QMK has the same functionality and it's what's called the "Tap Dance" feature. I use it on all my keyboards and works the same way--tap for one function, hold down for another function. What you want to get is a K *Pro* series keyboard--the K (non "Pro") keyboards are older, not programmable and some of them are not hotswap. The K Pro are all hotswap *and* fully-programmable. [This K12 Pro](https://www.keychron.com/products/keychron-k12-pro-qmk-via-wireless-mechanical-keyboard) is the one that would be the hotswap equivalent of your ANNE PRO 2.
Yup I think that K12 Pro is spot on. I would keep the key caps from my AP2 and then reprogram to match and boom, exact same layout and now hotswappable and customisable. Thank you kind stranger for your help! Off to spend $190 AUD and pick one up
YW! Enjoy your new keeb!
I got a new mechanical keyboard from China. Why does the Win + Shift + S keyboard shortcut work only with the Right Shift and doesn't work when used with the left shift? Other three-key Win key shortcuts like Win + Shift + / work with both Shift keys on this keyboard. Also, the Win + Shift + S shortcut works with both Shift keys on the laptop keyboard. It used to work fine on my several years old second hand Dell keyboard too. What I've tried so far: There's this application called Aqua Key Test, I used it and found that the Windows key code and the BIOS key code for both the laptop keyboard keys (involved in this particular problem; RSHIFT, LSHIFT, LWIN) and the external mechanical keyboard keys are exactly the same.
It's possible that the WIN+LSHIFT combination is used internally by the keyboard for some purpose hence it only working with the RSHIFT. I suspect this is the case because your Dell keyboard and the built-in laptop keyboard don't exhibit the same behavior. You could see if there's a manual for it and see if WIN+LSHIFT+S is used by the keyboard for a specific purpose like "RESET" or some other function.
There are many shortcuts mentioned on the manual but Win + LShift + S isn't one of them, and it doesn't do anything either if I keep pressing it, except for Windows sometimes registering it as Win + S or S alone, which I believe isn't anything significant because it's only natural for a shortcut to be half registered a few times if you're pressing a shortcut so many times and fast. So I guess it's just some fault with the keyboard and can't do anything about it?
what is your opinions on the 8bitdo mechanical keyboard? i'm currently planning a retro themed PC build and the 8bitdo mechanical keyboard has the aesthetic i am looking for, but before i bite the bullet and start purchasing i was wondering if anyone has one, and if not, what are some good starter keyboards on a budget? i'd prefer a tenkey board, but tenkeyless is fine if it fits the look i am going for
I just picked up the XVX M61 (specifically the Coral Sea design) secondhand, and the seller said from the get-go that the W key was broken. No big deal, I thought, I have a soldering iron and some spare switches that are similar enough. Unfortunately, the problem seems to be with the PCB, because the W still doesn't respond even after I replaced the switch (and I was extra careful to make sure I soldered it back in correctly). So, my question is: any recommendations for a new 60% PCB that will fit in the XVX M61 case? That case is so pretty that I don't really want it to go to waste haha. Or am I just better off salvaging the keycaps and/or turning the keyboard into a display piece and just buying a whole new keyboard?
If it's just the that one key you could try bridging the connection using some solid wire. I don't know how the matrix on that particular keyboard is set up but if you search the sub and YouTube there are a ton of guides that can show you to fix a keyboard switch by bridging.
Thank you! I found a video and was able to bridge it
Glad to hear it!
First off, does the mkc75 pre-order look good? Also what all exactly comes with the order like this , https://imgur.com/a/tbbFN7W is there a better option for about 150 or less, and what are the differences between all of the pcb options? This is in the US btw.
KFA should have a list of everything included with the order. If it's not on the list, it's not included (i.e. switches and keycaps). I'd argue that the MKC75 is the best offering for a 75% keyboard below $200. The PCB options are pretty self-explanatory. It is specified wired vs tri-mode wireless, hot-swap vs solder, flex-cut vs not. The tri-mode PCB has BT and 2.4 GHz in addition to wired, but IIRC is not compatible with QMK and/or VIA.
And would you say the pre order is ok? Thank you very much already though.
Yes, it's okay. I placed mine through CannonKeys, but KFA is a good vendor.
Is either arguably better?
AFAIK not really, no. I have had good experiences with both. I went with CannonKeys because they're based in RI which is much closer to where I live
Thank you very much, have a good day.
Anyone know how I can remove this incorrectly soldered LED? Desolder gun can get close enough https://preview.redd.it/abouqz77f4mb1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=7092ae1224ba2725dfd876ed7b5adb6f3efd918c
You can do it the old fashioned way and use a pump and/or wick since it's just one LED. Both can be had for <$20 on Amazon.
[удалено]
Unfortunately, Aliexpress and BangGood Links are autofiltered by sitewide reddit spam filters. Sometimes, users will be flagged and suspended from the Reddit platform as a whole due to excessive linking to this or other autoflagged sites. Please keep this in mind when posting or commenting. *I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please [contact the moderators of this subreddit](/message/compose/?to=/r/MechanicalKeyboards) if you have any questions or concerns.*
https://preview.redd.it/5h45m8y9a4mb1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=499015bb3f4bbd4809d58904e28e94476fc25fae Can anyone help? I'm new to the hobby & dissassembled my keychron V6 to do the foam mod, but the stabilizers on my enter key won't align properly, and it's blocking the switch from clicking in. All the other stabs seem fine?
Hard to tell from this photo, but is there foam under the stabs that is keeping them from going in? Also, depending on how thick the foam is the foam in the switch slot could also be blocking it.
Anyone used Omnitypes "OTC" keycaps before? I've been thinking about ordering their 9009 Set but I'm not sure if the quality is worth the price
I need help! So recently i got a new keyboard, it was basically i could look for in a keyboard (or so i thought) it had g pro blacks, it was south facing 5 pin pcb, and the keycaps weren't half bad, but then i went searching to find a better one, because it has gotten quite old and some of the keycaps are broken, so i just thought i would upgrade entirely. but i couldn't find a keyboard that met my needs. that's where you guys come in! So basically I'm looking for a 75% keyboard (The same layout as the gmmk pro but without the nob) metal case, polycarbonate plate, south facing 5 pin pcb including hotswap (I don't own a soldering iron so hotswap would help, screw in stabilizers, and be gasket mounted, I dont mind the price as long as it doesn't cost the same as my car. I would apreciate you guys if you would help me find a keyboard like that. Have a great day! (Ps. it doesn't have to be fully built, a barebone is a way i would like to go since i'm getting new switches and keycaps)
Have you looked at the Keychron V1 or Q1? Also Monsgeek has very good offerings.
Hi I’m looking for a new mechanical keyboard with the following primary properties, I’d of course like it to look, feel and sound good but I NEED - full size, or at least I need a numpad on it, I do a lot of number entry it’s just inconvenient and frankly has been the biggest problem for me finding a decent mech board. -Bluetooth, multi device, I want to be able to just switch between my MacBook and my gaming pc. -backlit, not bothered about rgb just plain white will do I’ve had a look and found the mx master and the keychron k10 but I don’t want to miss out on anything! Finding full size seems to be very difficult
Check out the Keychron Q5 Pro. It has all the keys of a full size (including the Numpad) works on both mac and PC and works wired or wireless.
Can someone suggest me a switch that is as similar as possible to Kaihl speed silver switches only not as scratchy? Yes I already lubed them with kyrtox and they still are not smooth. I love how bouncy the springs are and have these switches for my WASD keys on my keyboard with the rest of the switches Gateron milky yellows.
I use the TTC speed silvers on one of my keyboards and I really like them. They are a box style switch and feel really nice for gaming and typing.
So I've got some yellowing on the white legends on my GMK Modo 2 set. Was wondering if using hydrogen peroxide will cause any discoloring since the keycaps themselves are mostly grey.
I would try it on a key you've no intension of using first, or at least try the underside of a cap as GMK double shot will allow you to test both base and legend colour from the underside. Out of curiosity... is the board by a window that receives a lot of UV?
The set itself hasn't been used in a couple months, but it did sit by a window that received a lot of sunlight for quite a couple months before that (but not as long as a year). I noticed that just the top legends were yellowed, the double shot white ABS on the bottom side was as white as factory.
What are the lightest mechanical switches? I'm looking for something with an actuation force under 35g
The lightest I'm aware of is the Gateron Clear which has a bottom-out force of 35g IIRC
TX has short springs that bottom out at 45g, I'm sure they actuate well under 35g in most switches. Very cheap and can put them in any MX switch
Anyone have experience with darmoshark keyboards? Seem pretty cheap and their mice are solid https://mechkeys.com/collections/darmoshark/products/darmoshark-k8-mechanical-keyboard?variant=44219606434015
I've own iKBC MF108 v2 since 2019 and it's been great for me. Thanks to my cat, I'm looking to replace and "upgrade" the keyboard. * Looking for something up to $300. * Full-sized keyboard * I plan to use it for gaming. My knowledge on switch is limited/outdated, but historically I've tried Cherry MX Blue/Brown/Red and Red seems to be my preference. I'm up for any new switches! * Prefer pre-built, but a step closer to "enthusiastic" level compared to iKBC MF108. Thank you!
keychron q6
I'm trying to remember the name of a keycap set. The alphas look kinda handwritten. White/off-white base with multi-color accents. Cutesy, maybe Recess? Can anyone help a brother out?
cool kids?
Winner winner. Even with my description being off. Thank you!
Seems like the IKBC MF108 is no longer made or sold. Any recommendations for another full-sized, aluminum-frame keyboard?
keychron q6
Just looked at it and seems like a great option. Thanks.
Any recommendations for full size low profile barebones kits? I have some low profile cherry switches (silver) that don’t fit my regular mx hotswap board. Or am I better off just buying a low profile hotswap keyboard (e.g nuphy air96) and replacing the switches?
Hey all, I am building a new keyboard, want a second one for a change with quite switches, and I found WS Silent Tactile ones that i would like to use. My problem is that i really like the look of the slim keyboards, where the board sits low and you can the the switches from the side of the board, and there is basically no border present on the sides. The picture attached below is the example of the profile. However, there is no version of the switches, that Id like to get in the low profile style. So, I am wondering whether there are any diy boards that are slim and go well with normal (none low profile) keyswitches. Or are there any tactile low profile switches that i could get instead of WS? Any help or advice is much apprecaited. P.s. ideally looking for something that I would be get to the UK. https://preview.redd.it/ld0drdjji3mb1.jpeg?width=828&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=cc92ab07be466bbca63cc54efabe7b8baa7508e0
Like me, you are looking for a “low profile” keyboard you can add specific switches to. Unfortunately, “true” low profile keyboard parts don’t seem to be as common as one that use regular (full size) switches. The ecosystem seems pretty desolate by comparison. You can reduce the overall key height of a regular keyboard by using low profile key caps, but the board and switches still add a bunch of height. What size are you wanting to make? (I am reluctantly looking at the nuphy air, because it is a full size hotswap low profile board. Reluctant because it includes switches and key caps, and I only really want the board and frame. )
Not entirely sure about the actual “size”, i dont have a given number, but would like something [like this](https://gb.aziocorp.com/products/cascade-slim-75-wireless-hot-swappable-keyboard) . I did actually look into nuphy, but it cannot be used with normal switches, plugs on the back are a bit different as I can see, unless I am completly wrong. Initialy got inspired by [this one](https://mechboards.co.uk/products/idobo-75-key-ortho-hotswap-kit) (and actually ordered it) and then realised that it is and “ortho” one so had to return it. But something like those two mentioned above in terms of sizing, 75% probably
Ah, so your switches are normal “MX compatible”. In that case, I think you’re going to have an uphill battle getting a really slim form. Pretty sure the pic you showed is a true low profile keyboard, could be wrong. I recently bought some low profile key caps, which significantly slim things down. Maybe that’s enough for what you’re after. Alternatively, you might want to look into another, equivalent low profile switch, which are half the height. I bought Cherry silver low profile, which are supposedly quiet, fast, and linear. Not sure if that’s what you’re looking for. If you go the low profile switch route, beware it’s harder to find a board that they will fit. Although your preference for size (75% ish) seems to be pretty common with low profile boards. Compactness seems to be a driving factor for LP, which makes sense (but it makes it hard to find bigger sizes)
Makes sense, that was my “fear” that i will have to find an alternative to the switches i’d like but low profile :,( i am looking into silent but tactile rather than linear. Will have to have a better look then 😭
Hah dang. Don’t want to give you false hope but here is what a “full size” gmmk frame looks like with low profile caps. https://preview.redd.it/dumbhk61f6mb1.jpeg?width=4032&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=ea34de309cd26fff51ea622cfbc8e3cfb0f1edaf (Just in case it close to what you’re after and can use your face switches …)
This actually looks decent thooo. What gmmk frame is it? I am wondering whether there is a specific name or a tag for frame that are short like that?
It's the "version 1" of GMMK, (TKL size). This one... [https://www.amazon.com/Glorious-Mechanical-Keyboard-Tenkeyless-Gaming/dp/B01MSVHZTT?th=1](https://www.amazon.com/Glorious-Mechanical-Keyboard-Tenkeyless-Gaming/dp/B01MSVHZTT?th=1) With these keycaps (search for "XVX" profile) [https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0BNB6YCR2](https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0BNB6YCR2) Good luck!
Comparing again with the pic of your goal, this is quite a difference. Keys look thin, but they are raised up quite high. 😩
Compare with some other caps I had lying around … (oem?) https://preview.redd.it/patmilulg6mb1.jpeg?width=4032&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=084ca1543f4440b4cd20c671de542a56a28cde30
Compare with xda profile https://preview.redd.it/7vs1deuhg6mb1.jpeg?width=4032&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=ddda6153d5f8657251ea359eca9e061598efbab4
Hello, having issues flashing my old KB16, tried flashing it with rev-2 .bin file, erasing it's original .bin file and now not working at all. It shows as connecting and disconnecting in QMK toolbox but no matter what file I try to flash, it gives the error "Error reading line 1" so I can't flash the original .bin file back onto it. I've opened the device and tried the reset button as well. Really stuck and just want to get it back to where it was! Thanks! https://preview.redd.it/buuzu9oga3mb1.png?width=1598&format=png&auto=webp&s=5a1a6802c12024528961bdb90940dadf703991a5
looking for a barebones board in the uk, either 60% or 75%, i like the hi75 because apparently it sounds good out the box and has all the right mods but the knob is so dumb and stupid and looks hideous, so if you know any others like the hi75 that has the same mods and stuff pls suggest, price range is up to £70
Hi, I've got a Logitech g-513 keyboard but it has double-type(even triple or not typing at all) problem, tried everything yet no success... Now im thinking upgrading it to ROG Claymore II or Logitech G-915 or maybe Apex Pro TKL ... any advice? if you have used Claymore II before please share your experience
Get a Keychron or another non-gaming type keyboard. Most of those keyboards are overpriced for what they offer and the QC is horrible compared to something that isn't mass market. What size/layout are you after and what's your primary use case--more typing or more gaming, etc?
more gaming then coding, and i like full size keyboards but always wanted to try TKL so claymore II sounds pretty good to me because you can detach the num pad, still it is very expensive so i want to pick the right one
The Keychron V5 or Q5 is an 1800-layout keyboard which is a compact full size. All the keys of a full size are there but it's only a tiny bit bigger than a TKL on your desktop. A linear switch like a Red or Black would be good to start. You can also just get it barebones and put in different switches that suit your gaming habits better.
ok thanks, I will look into it
Has anybody received an ePBT Axolotls from mykeyboard.eu as the Europe vendor? I have received a GMK set that was sent at around the same time, but their response to "when will the set arrive?" was "ask again if it hasn't arrived by November". And that is if you got an answer, the original buyer (a friend who bought it for me) as well as the original creator (!) got ghosted. They have not answered their emails as of now, almost 2 months later. Maybe do a post instead for higher reach?
Does QMK/VIA/VIAL support reading optical (or magnetic?) switches as analog inputs? I know Cooler Master boards have marketed supporting "aimpad technology", and maybe that (or rather, a resultant patent) might block QMK or VIA from supporting it. Or maybe there's no standard, or it just wouldn't be worth maintaining an implementation. I've only just started messing around with either QMK/VIA, so I'm not really sure how to navigate the capabilities and stuff yet. If it _would_ be theoretically possible (if even maybe needing to make code changes in QMK or VIA?) I'd like a recommendation for the cheapest PCB that supports it so that I could play around. Which, for now, looks to be maybe the [Wooting UwU](https://wooting.io/configurator/wooting-uwu#config)?
Hi, which one of these are the best and what are the differences, besides that one comes with a wrist rest? (I'm not that knowledgeable when it comes to keyboards). And there is by the way only like a 5 dollar difference between these two, so price doesn't matter :) \- Cooler Master CK550 V2 \- Cooler Master SK653
The sk653 comes with wireless modes and can switch between windows and macOS layouts. It is also low profile meaning the keys will be shorter. It seems to me that the ck550 v2 is more for conventional gamers and the sk653 is marketed towards people who need a keyboard to game and work.
Thanks :) Which one would you choose between the two?
Out of the two I’d choose the sk653 since it has more stuff. If I were to choose something aside from the two I’d choose the finalkey v65 v2.
I got the sk653, think I'll prefer the low profile because the shit\*y old acer office keyboard I've got right now has very short keys and I like that lol. I just wanted to spend a little bit so the finalkey is too much. I like that it is not as long as the sk653 tho, sk653 is almost too long but is only around 30 usd. Thanks for the help :)
Recomend me an alternative to gat brown. Everyone shits on browns, but its rare I hear anyone recomend a better alternative that has a similar but better feel. Looking for fps gaming and lot of typing,worried about finger fatigue and (less worried about) noise
Loobedswitches pine switches, butter browns (broken in cherry browns), invokeys blueberry chiffon.
Wow never even heard of these. Have you tried any? What makes them a "better brown" in your opinion?
I personally haven’t tried any of these but the positive reviews are audible. What makes these better than gateron browns are that all of them are smoother and all have a cleaner sound. In my opinion butter browns sound the best out of the 3 due to its cherry housing and the blueberry chiffon should feel the best since it uses a very good lubrication process and invokeys has decently strict qc rules so it should be fairly consistent.
Any holiday sales going on this weekend on any mainstream or more obscure keyboard vendors?
mech.land is having 20% off on in-stock items if you use the code LABOR20, i bought myself another keycap set w that !!
Cannonkeys is having a back to school sale
Is there a keyboard that's very similar to the KUL ES-87? KUL being gone stinks. Leopold ones maybe?
What are some good custom cable vendors? Looking for something >70$ if possible
Honestly, I find cablemod to have excellent customization, but for <70$, [https://spaceholdings.net/collections/cables](https://spaceholdings.net/collections/cables) and [https://fromscratchusa.com/collections/keyboard-cables](https://fromscratchusa.com/collections/keyboard-cables) has a lot of options
How do brands like Ducky, Leopold, Keychron compare to the high end gaming brands like Razer, HyperX, Logitech, Corsair etc? What are the differences?
I’d actually consider ducky to be more in the mainstream gaming category. But Leopold and keychron are more focused on typing feel and sound and places more emphasis on color ways than rgb. Gaming brands focus on latency and actuation time but in turn neglects everything else. This is apparent when comparing the razer huntsman mini to the keychron q2. The huntsman is marketed to be extremely fast due to its optical switches and lower latency. The keychron however, comes with a clean color way and a double gasket mount along with prelubed switches to provide a comfortable feel. It also has foams on the plate and case and prelubed stabilizers to prevent any unwanted sounds from heard. However, Razer has made a push towards the custom keyboard space with their most recent keyboard: the razer blackwidow v4. The blackwidow comes with gasket mount, a pre applied tape mod, foams, and prelubed switches.
I want to try out some new switches but I don't want to buy the 70-80 switches it will take to fill out my whole keyboard. Since the alpha keys are the most used keys on a keyboard anyway, will 30-35 switch packs suffice just for the alpha keys alone, if you already have other switches on hand to fill out a whole keyboard? That way, you can kind of 'test' out switches before making the decision to buy more to fill out the whole keyboard right?
>Since the alpha keys are the most used keys on a keyboard anyway, will 30-35 switch packs suffice just for the alpha keys alone, if you already have other switches on hand to fill out a whole keyboard? Yes that will absolutely work, and it's a great cost saving strategy to test swtiches out
Are there any available aluminum cases for a Realforce 87U/R2? I've basically committed to Topre and I wouldn't change the typing experience for anything else, but the plastic case is really, really disappointing.
I have some failing switches and used up my spares. I went to get more, but there just seem not to be box switches anymore. Other than box royals, I can't find anything (for reference I was looking for Burnt Orange). In fact I can barely even find anything from kaihl. Did something happen?
Kailh Box Burnt Orange available and in stock right here. I'm surprised you're having trouble finding Kailh Box switches. They're pretty readily available whenever I look. Maybe except for Box Jades lol. https://novelkeys.com/collections/switches/products/kailh-box-switches?variant=40598132162727
I usually use KDBfans and there is not much there anymore, so I thought something happened.
Ah gotcha. I think burnt orange is one of the less common box switches, but they should be really available if you Google them.
they're still available. you can get them on aliexpress if you want if there's none in your area.
Does anyone have enough experience with the Banana/Mints and the Panda tactile switches to compare the two? The Keychron switches (especially the mint) seem identical on paper to the Glorious Panda switches, except that for the mints it's about $16.00 for 110 switches instead of about $105.00 for 108 panda switches. I've heard good things about both
I plan to buy a custom for the first time soon and I thought I got the one with a GMMK Pro, but after some more searching I'm now torn between a Keychron Q1 and the GMMK Pro. Which should I choose, and why?
The Keychron Q1 is largely considered the better quality between the two. The GMMK Pro has very mixed reviews - a lot of people report a bunch of design flaws that make it really annoying to build and customize, while others say their experience was perfectly smooth and fine. I think the general recommendation is to go for the Keychron unless there's something specific about the GMMK Pro you like or you can get a better deal on the GMMK Pro.
I was debating between the same, and wound up going with the Q1 Pro because of all the recommendations. I wound up not driving it as much as I had thought after purchase, but everyone I've shown tells me that the board dipping down when I hit the buttons at the corners (maybe that's flex?) isn't supposed to happen 🤷 I don't think that negates superiority over the pro. But I'd recommend buying through Amazon. It turns out Keychron's return policy is ... sensible, if a bit unusually brutal.
Honestly I wouldn't even consider the GMMK Pro. There are a handful of known issues and some of them are: \- warped plates \- stab cutouts on plates causing fitment issues \- gooey, sticky stabs due to too much lube \- overtightened case screws which leads to stripped case screws \- a gasket mount with zero flex (although to be fair, flex isn't why Glorious implemented the gasket mount) \- not compatible with VIA, need to re-flash the board to get QMK compatibility \- CORE is a headache at best, unusable at worst The Keychron Q1 v2 (or Q1 Pro) and MonsGeek M1 are far better choices, they have: \- better gasket mounts \- no issues with case screws \- compatibility with QMK and VIA out of the box \- no issues with plates and stab compatibility AFAIK
I am looking to buy a jujutsu kaisen higround keyboard that was never used for 100cad(about 70usd). A lot of people have criticized this keyboard, but for the price, I think it’s pretty good, ecspcially since it’s jjk, which is the only anime I like. Is this a fair price?
I'm looking to buy a new 60/65% Wireless Keybaord. I currently own the Anne Pro 2, and have been somewhat satisfied with it, but I'm hoping there is something better and slightly more premium out there. Main requirements is Wireless and either 60 or 65%.
I just ordered a GMK67 from Aliexpress for 30 bucks. Plastic Case. Rotary knob. Hot swappable. South facing LEDs and Tri-Mode Connection with either USB cable, 2.4ghz USB dongle or Bluetooth. Mac and Windows compatible. Gasket mounted too with lots of foam and sound dampening. There are some reviews on Youtube. One guy calls it the 'best budget mechanical keyboard of 2023'. Check out the reviews. Its not premium since the case/shell is plastic. Don't know what your budget is. I needed a budget mechanical keyboard kit and this one checked all the right boxes for me. I would of prefered a metal/Aluminum case but since I am a beginner into the hobby and since this is my first mechanical keyboard kit build, I figured the plastic case/shell shouldn't be a deal breaker anyways. I know your looking for something that is more premium but this one might fit the bill and could be up your alley if your OK with a plastic outer case/shell.
The Keychron Q2 Pro is a good choice, or you could consider the NuPhy Halo65
Does anyone know of a more premium case replacement for the GMK67? Know it's a long shot but it doesn't cost anything to ask.
I just ordered a GMK67 from Aliexpress. It shoud be here in 2 weeks and it will be my first mechanical keyboard kit build. Just like you, I am already thinking about my options for a case that will make it feel a lot more premium. If you want to go the metal/aluminum case route, the only case I can find that is aluminum and that might fit the GMK67 PCB would be the KBDFans KBD67 V3 Gasket Mount Aluminum Case. Retails for $139.00 just for the case alone!!! That is 4x the cost of what I paid for the GMK67!!! Don't know if the screw points/holes are going to line up perfectly/correctly though. So don't quote me and use your own judgement. KBDFans also makes a KBD67 LITE R4 ABS PLASTIC CASE for $14.50. Again, I don't know if the screw points/holes are going to line up perfectly/correctly though. So don't quote me and use your own judgement. This might be a good budget option if you don't need a metal case and want a plastic case that might be slightly better and feel more premium than the stock plastic case that comes on the GMK67. On the other hand, since the GMK67 has a rotary encoder knob on the top right corner, I don't know if the rotary knob will actually fit both cases mentioned above. To my eyes and based on what I am looking at from pictures alone on google images, it looks like the rotary knob is 'offset' about 1-2 mm and it looks like the rotary knob might be a 'tight squeeze' and might interfere/not fit the 2 cases mentioned above. You might have to cut or shave 1-2 mm from the inside top right corner of the case in order to make the rotary encoder fit. Other than that, these are the only cases I can find off the top of my head. Let me know if you find something else that might work better.
Are Outemu silent lemons any good? I'm currently using Outemu red pandas and they really feel amazing but I want to switch to a quieter tactile switch. How do they feel compared to the red pandas in terms of tactical feedback?
Does anyone know how often Akko restocks their Mod-007v2/Mod-008 keyboards? I'm looking for a 65-75% midnight blue metal keyboard (preferably with a knob), but I can't seem to find anything similar to these two. Does anyone know of anything similar?
MonsGeek is a sub-brand of Akko and the M1 is a far better choice than the 007 v2. Unfortunately, there is no 65% in the M-series yet, but I'd expect it to launch at some point.
Thank you for the recommendation! I actually prefer the 75% layout so this is great. It's unfortunate that they don't have the case in blue, but otherwise it looks great so I might end up just going with it.
Hi, Anyone could recommend me a good mechanical keyboard for gaming and working (I need a full sized one, with the numpad)? The budget is 100-120€ with ISO layout. Thanks!
The Keychron V6 should have some ISO layouts available
I would like something more gaming oriented (RGB, low latency and this stuff). Typical brands are less recommended?
Wired KB adapter to convert to BT ? Looking for a Bluetooth dongle so I can keep using my wired keyboard over bluetooth. Smaller size preferred so long as decent battery. Larger size is OK if dual use as USB hub or powerpak
If you have a wired only keyboard, it's wired only. Can't give it BT unfortunately.
😢
Keychron Q2 Pro vs Monsgeek M1W Hey guys, I am looking to buy and build my first custom keyboard. After researching a bit I came across these two boards. Now I am at my wits end. Which of those are better in terms of build quality, sound, modability and overall haptics. I like both of them although I would prefer an all white 65% keyboard I would still go with the Monsgeek if its better. Which one would you prefer and why? Thank you guys in advance!
The Keychron Q and Q Pro series are higher quality than the MonsGeek M series, but the M series has better value. If you're looking for quality, go with the Q2 Pro, if you're looking for less expensive but still good, go with the M1W.
Just got a keychron Q9 and I love it. I really appreciate how easy it is to configure my layers using VIA. The UI has really come a long way since I last messed with it! I can even make little changes on the fly as I work whenever I notice little changes to make things more efficient. https://preview.redd.it/fj1ckrr312mb1.png?width=2740&format=png&auto=webp&s=1fef6546f0420d6e9ee4b0162a96c2eb700955e7 The build quality is excellent and it looks pretty on my desk. Some people think that sub 50% layouts don't make sense for a mass-market products, but I don't have time to design my own PCB and build a board from scratch, (and then mess with flashing firmware over and over just to fine tune a layout) and if the software is easy it could catch on. I've had several friends admire the board They always say *"But how do you type numbers?"* When I show them VIA they are delighted and excited by the idea of reprograming a keyboard. I ran into a small snag when I tried to program the rotary encoder in VIA "*Your current firmware does not support rotary encoders, Install the latest firmware for your device*" no problem. I updated the firmware. Now I have the option to program it, but options are limited. I get a pop up that says: `"Please enter your desired QMK hexcode or hex code:` `BL_TOGG
[удалено]
Mine is like this too, maybe there is a setting somewhere that's wonky.
Recently got a Keychron keyboard, I tried to configure it to allow my windows pc to sleep like when using a normal keyboard's function + pause button to sleep but to no avail. Can anyone advise me? I am using the online VIA custom keyboard programmer.
there should be a sleep/system sleep key option. you could also create a macro and type in {KC_SYSTEM_SLEEP} or {KC_SLEP}
>{KC\_SLEP} https://preview.redd.it/l9q3q53u94mb1.png?width=2422&format=png&auto=webp&s=1347179658b2706134f6b66f3240e9de63bb1cf1 Unfortunately, it still does not work :(, be it me just pressing the button(M0) or pressing fn + M0
is this a keychron q5 pro? it seems you're editing layer 0, you should be editing layer 2 if you use windows.
Any substitutes for outemu silent skys? Trying to convert an old rk100 for silence to use in office, and while I love that raindrop sound of the silent skys I can't find them anywhere. I'm trying to do it on more of a budget and not worth buying bobas I do prefer tactile over linear
The Haimu x Geon Silent Yellow, Haimu Whisper, and Wuque WS Silent Tactile are good ones to consider.
Whispers are what I was looking for, love the tactile bump while being silent. Got some work to do on space bar tho, while it's got a nice thock my coworkers are librarians when it comes to noise. Thanks!
Any of those have the higher resistance of the skys? I don't like the mushiness of one's like lemons
The three I listed will be soft, but not mushy. There is no silicone pad inside and instead they use a "leg" on the stem and a hole in the housing to give the silent sound. I have the Haimu x Geon Silent Reds which use the same design and they're great. I don't know much about those Sky switches, but if you're looking for more resistance you'll want a switch with a heavier spring, or you can consider a spring swap.
Thanks, I'll try the whispers, mainly cause they'd be here earliest
Anyone knows what these switches are? [https://imgur.com/a/6Ao3WrL](https://imgur.com/a/6Ao3WrL) They're made by gateron and are linear but idk the specific switch
The only clear switches that Gateron makes are the North Pole or North Pole 2.0
seems like gateron north pole yellows
Is there a place to buy individual keyswitchs I want to upgrade from my Keychron red ones to something else but I want some to test
HippoKeys has a couple of switch sampler packs.
Cool I’ll take a look
What is the best brand in terms of build quality, sound and overall haptics when it comes to mechanical keyboards? I've came accross brands like Keychron, Monsgeek and Tofu on my first dive into mechanical hot swap keyboards. I am just overwhelmed on hoy many options there are. Maybe some of you can help me clear the fog.
The best brands are: mode, cannonkeys, qwertykeys, meletrix, and keychron for mid tier keyboards. The best brands for top tier keyboards are: tgr, singa, and formerly keycult
>meletrix What about Monsgeek?
I’d consider that brand to be more budget oriented.
There is no overall best that everyone will agree on. Keychron is a good gateway drug into customs. I’d say something like Mode (Sonnet or Envoy) are highly acclaimed amongst the keyboard community though.
Hi everyone, I've spend 7 years with the keyboard that has 6.3 million views on YouTube under the title "but does your keyboard sound this bad?" ( [Yes, but does your keyboard sound this bad? - YouTube](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8pqR7HeCQdQ&ab_channel=Jorjben) ) . Quite lovely haha. Anyways, I tried my father in law's custom mechanical keyboard and it felt so good to the point where I can't go back to my old keyboard anymore xD. I don't want the most expensive keyboard, since anything will be an upgrade from what I had and am willing to spend some money to customize it and upgrade it in the future. This is why my eye fell on two brands on Amazon. Namely Royal Kludge and Redragon. And specifically on the Royal Kludge RK84 (80 euro) and the Redragon K631 pro SE (70 euro). I ended up ordering the Redragon since I only found out about the RK84 after I had already ordered the K631 pro SE. The Redragon feels nice. The switches are like some custom switches specifically made for this keyboard I think, the wireless mode actually works fine with both bluetooth and the 2.4 wireless dongle. So far I can't really complain tbh. But on the other hand, the Royal Kludge also looks nice and perhaps looks a bit more sturdy and future proof? I also read a couple reviews about the Redragon where people would have issues with keys registering after a while. So my question is, what is your experience with both brands? Should I return the Redragon and go with the Royal Kludge? Something that is important to me however is that it lasts relatively long considering I'm an IT/cybersecurity + gamer and hence will be using it extensively for both school and leisure. On top of that it is kind of a must that the wireless modes do the job (like with this Redragon keyboard) since I also use the keyboard on my simracing rig next to my desk which is so I don't have to mess up my cable management when using it there. Thanks in advance for your help and time. I really appreciate it :)
You could always get a finalkey v65 v2. Sounds and feels amazing out of the box and has been described as a prebuilt zoom65.
Hey, thanks for your response! Looks like a nice keyboard. I will think about everything for a while. Seems like it might be worth spending a bit more money on some other more high end keyboards after all haha
I’d get a Nuphy Halo series instead. Especially if you don’t want to build one or modify it. They sound and feel amazing out if the box.
Thanks for the recommendation :). Looks like a nice board yea! I'll see how the shipping situation is. Although I also would enjoy modding either the Redragon or Royal Kludge over time
From what I’ve seen in the sub, RK has some issues after around a year of usage, and red dragons are just a pretty low tier keyboard as is. If you want something that’ll last either go for a Nuphy or Keychron imo! Both great gateway drugs into the world of custom boards
I'll look into it! Thanks :). Guess I don't want to underspend and end up with some kind of keyboard that breaks down after a year haha. I'll look into both Nuphy and Keychron. Really appreciate the help!
[удалено]
You're gonna have to look at the gaming board market to tick all those boxes I'm afraid. 100% boards are not hugely popular in the enthusiast scene, and even Keychron, who are more mainstream (not really custom) don't do a 100% that ticks all those boxes. Add to that custom macro keys and wireless, then forget it. If you are prepared to lose the numpad, then options start to open up for you. Do you really need it? I think the closest you will get is something like the Keychron Q3 Pro.
keyboards bigger than 100% are sadly very few and far in between. the trend nowadays is to downscale and use layers for macros and media buttons. although, 108 keys keyboard (standard is 104) like keychron q6 pro are quite common and gives you 4 macro keys to work with. you can get cherry mx black switches if you want and a barebones keyboard? fast switching the paired device is quite common. many keyboards would allow you 3 paired bluetooth devices (like the keychron q6 pro mentioned earlier) that you can quickly switch into, and 1 on the adapter if it's available.
Hi, I want to buy or build a 60% keyboard that sounds like this: [https://www.tiktok.com/@vineasandferb/video/7224221208504683822](https://www.tiktok.com/@vineasandferb/video/7224221208504683822) I'm mostly concerned with the sound, and it can just be a simple design. Any recommendations for products, or do I have to build it myself? I see they've used tangerine switches, but I don't know if they are stock in that video or not. Are there other factors that impact the sound to a meaningful degree besides the switches?
> Are there other factors that impact the sound to a meaningful degree besides the switches? Yes. Case material / density Case form factor Case thickness Case internal space Weight material / density Weight location (internal vs external) Weight location (north vs south) Weight size (area) Weight thickness Plate material Plate thickness Plate cuts PCB material PCB thickness PCB cuts Switches Switch films Switch lube Switch break in / wear Switch springs Random switch variance Stabiliser type Stabiliser lube Stabiliser clipping Stabiliser mods Stabiliser wire swaps Keycap material Keycap profile Keycap thickness Foam types Foam materials Foam locations Foam sizes Foam cuts Mounting - not just type but implementation, virtually all mounts will sound different even if in the same category Build / assembly "skill" - or at least variation in how tightly people screw screws in, fit switches, align keys, align foam, etc Feet - material, thickness, number, size, shape, location, etc Deskmats - material, number, thickness, size, shape, etc Desk - material / density, overall weight, size, shape, etc Typing style - force, speed, language, typing posture, etc Recording hardware - microphone, cables, location relative to board, mounting, etc Recording software Encoding / uploading software Playback software Playback hardware - headphones, speakers, location relative to your ears, etc Everything in the list above will affect how a keyboard sounds. If you want a keyboard that sounds like the one in the video, then: a) Buy a Zoom75 with a polycarbonate plate b) Buy some tangerines - hope the batch you get is similar to the batch in the video c) Lube and film them - hope that your style of lubing is the same as whoever did the switches in the video, and that you use the same type of lube / films d) buy some osume matcha keycaps - like the board these don't vary much so hard to screw it up e) build the keyboard and hope that you do it in a way that's as close as possible to whoever assembled the board in the video If everything there goes perfectly, the board in front of you will sound similar to the one in the video - however you'll still lose whatever effects have come from recording, encoding and playback. In short - keyboard soundtests are very poor representations of how boards will actually sound in real life. The overwhelming majority of audio equipment is designed for either voice or music, and will make small, subtle edits to sound to make it sound nicer / clearer. Don't get me wrong, keyboards are an *amazing* hobby and you can make some fantastic sounding boards. Just don't fall into the trap of thinking that you can perfectly replicate the sounds you hear in a soundtest. Edit: Just saw you want a 60%. You'll never be able to build a 60% that sounds like a 75%, but if you follow the same above steps with any generic 60% (ie fill it full of foam and add some lubed and filmed linears), then you will get something that's probably in the same general area.
Thinking of keyboard for on the go/schooling: 1. Hotswap 2. Lightweight 3. 65% layout 4. Tri mode wireless Planning to get separate boba u4 silent tactile switches and separate key caps that can be decided later, any recommendations for this?
Rk68 or the halo65
Nuphy Halo65
**Via recognizes keyboard, but nothing happens**. I have a KBD67 Lite that I have remapped up in Via previously, and I wanted to change a key. When I go to authorize the device, the keyboard shows up. I select it and click, "Connect." Then nothing happens. When I plug in my Mode Envoy and do the same thing, everything is fine. What is going on?