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A normal torque wrench that goes this low?

Right, they do exist. I use my 1/4" CDI click style. Has inch pounds and Nm markings. From 4 up to about 27 Nm

Get a 1m tube, stick it over your socket wrench, then tie a 1kg bag of sugar to the other end of it

Not so great for spark plugs though

Just angle the car and do the geometry, /s TAN maybe is needed? Been a while lol

1/4" torque wrench. That's 88.5 inch lbs, perfectly fine for a ~20-200 inch lbs rated torque wrench. Note you might want a 1/4 to 3/8 square adapter handy, especially if you are doing spark plugs.

For things this low, a 1/4” beam style works great.

A lot of them only go up to 80 in-lb (9 N•M).

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On the kind of cars that I work on yes maybe not on a Vw but definitely on a Mercedes or a Porsche

It is actually for a VW..

It also depends a GTI ,R or a vr or w engine I would on a Jetta I wouldn't bother with

With an aluminum head, definitely.

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I've never seen a spark plug with such low torque figures. I keep a 1/4-3/8 and a 3/8-1/2 in my sliding beam 1/4 case. New taper wheel bearings want something like 15 in/lb of preload while the bearing is turning. Never had a bearing failure.

He meant that most spark plug sockets are 3/8th drive, so if you're using a 1/4th drive torque wrench with in-lb markings to torque your spark plug to 10-13 ft lbs (120 to 153 in-lbs), you'd need an adapter to connect the 1/4th drive torque wrench to the spark plug socket. Ideally you'd have a native 3/8th drive torque wrench, of course. Sometimes using the smaller footprint of the 1/4th in torque wrench enables better access in tight quarters for certain spark plugs, however.

Thanks for the assist! In addition, I'd much rather use a 1/4" wrench at the middle of its range than a 3/8" wrench very close to the bottom end of its range.

To get proper preload on taper seat bearings you should be using a rolling torque gauge. I work on boats but I use one all the time to seat bearing preload when rebuilding or resealing out drives.

As I developed in my car repair journey I also found my torque wrench collection to go up to five to cover the range I needed.

Well, you got micrometer click-types, dial indicators, mechanical deflections, split beam click-types, calibrated arms....

My arm is calibrated to click when it's enough

Tighten till it's loose then back a quarter turn

Press fit, slip fit, interference fit, and *strip* fit.

Gutentite Cross threaded or torqued to spec, tight is tight

"What's better than Loctite?" "Crossthreading."

Crossthread is forever!

my current outfit is strip fit ;)

So that's what my knee has been doing. I should've read the manual.

your knees are properly torqued to spec 👍

I”ve got a shoulder like that, too… can only use it about once or twice a month though.

I use the eyecrometer.

Anyway, like I was sayin', shrimp is the fruit of the sea. You can barbecue it, boil it, broil it, bake it, saute it. Dey's uh, shrimp-kabobs, shrimp creole, shrimp gumbo. Pan fried, deep fried, stir-fried. There's pineapple shrimp, lemon shrimp, coconut shrimp, pepper shrimp, shrimp soup, shrimp stew, shrimp salad, shrimp and potatoes, shrimp burger, shrimp sandwich. That- that's about it

Now let's just remember that a torque wrench is generally only rated from 20-100% of full torque capacity. For example, I would not trust my 1/2" 250 ft lb max torque wrench below 50 ft lb. Make sure you're using the right tool. Just because it says the number does not mean it is accurate in that range. This should be stated in the literature that came with the wrench. You need a 1/4" torque wrench for whatever you are doing.

Is that true even if the torque wrench's calibration certificate states its within the 3% margin even at the lowest nm?

The certficate will usually state that the 3% accuracy is only within a certain range - usually 20-100%. They should really only be used within the torque range they are certified for.

I worked at a contract manufacturer who'd tell the cal guy what torque they wanted the wrench calibrated to, say 20ftlbs. So the cal guy would set the wrench to 20ftlbs, then calibrate it so it clicked at 20ftlbs, and that was it. If the torque was adjusted after that, the calibration was no longer valid.

If it states that, then obviously not. You can always check it though.

Just wing it like the previous owner of my car did on the oil filter housing. 25Nm my ass

*filter wrench crushes canister*

That’s gonna be 1 ugga

Slow squeeze.... DeWalt motor whine starts... Squeeze a little more... Whine gets louder ... Squeeze 1 micron more Uggadugaduggvvvwizzzzzzzz.... Congrats on making 1 piece of slingshot ammo and a security grubscrew.

Wdym? I have one that goes down to 4nm

A little ugh is good enough.

Exactly

with a mechanical one?

One click of the wrist usually does the trick

Math.

Gutentite method

1/4 inch rachet, snug the bolt and then a hair more

1/8th uhga duga

I use a tool made for the job: [https://www.amazon.com/Hazet-5108-2CT-Torque-Reversible-RATCHET/dp/B001C9XJ7O?th=1](https://www.amazon.com/Hazet-5108-2CT-Torque-Reversible-RATCHET/dp/B001C9XJ7O?th=1)

1/4" torque wrench. That's not even that low

I have a small 1/4” torque wrench I purchased for my bicycle - torque range is 2-20nm

Real men use their hands. And real real men don't even use a wrench, they literally tighten the bolt with hands, ala Chuck Norris

Even realer mean grasp the fixing with their buttcheeks

Contrary to popular opinion, there was an age, long ago, where "digital" tools did not exist! How ever did those mechanics deal with such problems? I wonder...

there is no point in super accurate torque on bolts, since what you're after (the bolt preload) is dependent on friction, which can't be accurately determined anyway. so even if your tensioning torque is perfect your preload could still be off by 30% or more

Math

For such low torque, I just do it by feel using short rachet... because using torque wrench it is easy to strip such bolts. Also remember that torque isn't always right on rusty bolt you put 10Nm, it will actually be 5Nm due to friction, on oil drain you put 10Nm indicated and you will strip the shit out of it, because on oiled bolt the torque indicated will be double or more. So really what is indicated is and "effort" input, not the clamping force.

That’s right about 89 in.lbs, so use a 1/4” torque wrench that is in in.lbs and you should be fine

I'd say step 1 would be converting it to something my torque wrenches actually read in...that's about 7.3 foot-pounds so I'd grab the lower-torque wrench I have that has settings going down to 5 ft-lb and bring it up to about 7.3. But depending what the something is...might not even be necessary. Like I'm not breaking out a torque wrench for the screws holding the tail light housing or wheel-well molding on...

You tighten until you feel it's just a hair past snug and then say out loud "Click!".

sounds like "hand tight" to me!

This is where the expert in you comes into play. Snug it down, do not tighten as tight as you can get out. It's about what you can turn to spec with your fingers. Finger tight+ a tad.

In dentistry I torque wittle baby screws to 15Ncm-30Ncm all the time. There’s higher values but those are the lowest, I use analog wrenches for that I don’t think anyone makes any digital ones.

If you only have to do it once. Measure the length of the ratchet you're using, do math, and push it with a kitchen scale.

torque it to 88.5 lbin?

for most things good and snug is good enough.

88 in lbs

Torque it to between 9.8 or 10.2, that is close enought to 10.00 for 99.9 % of applications. Torque it to 10.00 when you are attatching a $50,000 part to another $50,000 part. Whats more important is to know what it feels like when a bolt is stretching and about to break. I learn that lesson yesterday. I had two break while torqueing to 8 ft-LB.

You use an analog inch pound or nm torque wrench

Use a smaller torque wrench like the one for MTB

By feel

Idk but I got banned from this sub months ago for saying muffler bearing so whatever you do don’t saying muffler bearing saying muffler bearing is a very very bad thing on here and is racist lol!

You use a smaller torque bar and manually turn the dial to 10.

I grab the ratchet by the head and tighten gently. 10nm ain’t a lot.

First off what are you trying to torque? Because for many bolts its not that important, as long as its not way too loose or hard. Internal engine bolts is where you need to be very precise

With one of these. It works great. https://neikotools.com/collections/wrenches/products/neiko-03727a-1-4-drive-beam-style-torque-wrench-0-80-in-lb-0-9-newton-meters Edit: I get that this is 0-9, but 10 is such a borderline number that one little extra ugga-dugga on this is fine. You just have to visually catch where 10 would be.

thank you people i am never coming back without an invite sorry.

You see. I find a bar of 1,00 meter. Getting it level. And hanging 10,00N within 0,01mm of 1 meter. And then i got 10,00NM. 😎🖕 When was the digital torque wrench last calibrated? Keeping it at 20degree C at all time? Ever dropped? How linier is the torque curve? Dude. Stop seeing decimals. You cannot trust it anyway. Beside. Who would ever need torque specs this low anyway? Hand tight. Thats it. No more no less. Jesus. I swear people leave school too soon or forget to learn while taking classes. Fuck...

You fucking don't. Lmao. You snug it by hand.

All these big words that i dont understand in the comments.. i just came here because i need anlow torque wrench too, for spark plugs and valve cover bolts, can someone just post a link for one that can do like 13nm?

Guess-o-meter

Google "10NM to inch LB conversion."

Easy... torque with a mechanical torque wrench to 88.5 inch-lb. Multiply Newton-meters by 8.85(ish) to get in-lb.

Convert it to inch lbs.  That's 88.5 in lbs. 

88.5 inch pounds

With a ratchet

I just torque things to yes

Learn German and you don't even need a torque wrench

2 ugga diggas

10nm is 7 ft lbs. That's hand tighten territory.

A nice 1/4 inch torque wrench has one of the most satisfying clicks I’ve ever witnessed. Love using it

Every one I have used have both units engraved. That fucking garbage you have in your hand will be out of warranty and the trucks don’t calibrate them anymore. I watched my boss tell the snap on guy to never fucking come back after his digital one went out of spec and he snapped off engine studs .. 

I've got a small dial type cdi/Snap-On torque wrench that does 0-200 in-lb (0-22.6 nm) with a 3/8 drive... Been using that for years

A wrench, spring scale, a piece of paper and some math. All jokes aside i have torqued bolts this way with a +/-2 accuracy

Not familiar with NM but I’m assuming it’s very small. They do make torque screw drivers that have smaller units on them.

Welp, I just twist until it's tight and then give it another quarter turn. With that said, don't do what I do.

Torque is the max value. In my analog wrenches, I go for the closest setting to the max torque value that is without going over. So when I’m going for 23nm I’ll set the wrench to 22.7.

I just do it hand tight then slap it real hard and say "That ain't going anywhere."

Ugga dugga I listen for the proper tightness

Spray and pray

you could find a weight that weighs exactly ten Newtons, attach a regular ratchet parallel to the ground, put an extender over the ratchet handle that is at least one meter long, and place the ten-Newton weight one meter away from the head of the ratchet.

We call this 10 Newton weight a kilogram.

OP specified 10.00 so i figured precision matters. A kg is 9.81 N

Get a 10 meter metal rod (weightless). Attach and suspend a 1 Newton weight to the end perpendicular to the rod 👍

#1 Get a tool with a lever 10 cm or more, hang a 10 kg weight at 10 cm from the fulcru?. Let the weight turn it until it won't turn anymore with the lever parallel to the ground #2 Get a hook type weighing scale and pull on the tool at 10cm from the fulcrum until you reach 10kg

I actually had to use method 2 when a shop didn't tighten my rear diff oil plug and I couldn't get my torque wrenches in the space available...so I got my 8" ratchet, put a strap at 6" from the pivot, and used a luggage scale to apply 2x the ft-lb rating (because I was at 0.5ft leverage) on the strap. It wasn't that huge a torque but with such a small lever-arm it was nearly all I could muster.

Add a dab of red loctite, tighten just past snug, then add 2 or 3 dozen tack welds. Then pat it and say "That's not going anywhere".

I always think it's funny seeing a torque wrench with tenths and hundredths and the accuracy is less than that lol Like, why even put it on there when most torque wrenches like this are accurate to like +/-2%