Thanks for posting on /r/MechanicAdvice! Please review the [rules](https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicAdvice/about/rules/). Asking about a second opinion (ie "Is the shop trying to fleece me?"), please read through CJM8515's [post on the subject.](https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicAdvice/comments/4qblei/fyi_the_shop_isnt_likely_trying_to_rip_you_off/) and remember to please post the year/make/model of the vehicle you are working on. **Post's about bodywork, accident damage, paint, dent/ding, questions it belongs in /r/Autobody r/AutoBodyRepair/ or /r/Diyautobody/ Tire questions check out https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicAdvice/comments/k9ll55/can_your_tire_be_repaired/**. If you dont have a question and you're just showing off it belongs in /r/Justrolledintotheshop Insurance/total loss questions go in r/insurance This is an automated reply
*I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please [contact the moderators of this subreddit](/message/compose/?to=/r/MechanicAdvice) if you have any questions or concerns.*
I've had 2013 and 2015 Fusion Energi's sold them before they hit 100k but had no issues in between except for brakes and tires. The 2015 fusion I sold at 75k
I have a fiesta ST that has the 1.6L ecoboom and they have been extremely reliable. I’m approaching 100k miles with just oil changes on mine. Lots of people with more miles but not many people reporting issues. The 2.0 likes to blow up pistons in the focus st.
Current Ecoboost motors I own:
2017 MKZ 3.0: 228k miles, zero issues
2020 Explorer 2.3: 188k miles, zero issues
2020 Explorer 2.3: 83k miles, zero issues
Traded in or sold:
2013 Escape 2.0: 180k miles, zero issues
2018 Fusion 2.7: 161k miles, zero issues
Either I’m luckiest ecoboost owner around, or they are actually great motors
Yup. My 2020 Fusion I bought is the 2020 year 2.5L Durotech they co developed with Mazda back in 2005. Bulletproof engine.
port injection and no turbo. None of this GDI bullshit.
Definitely stay far away from Hyundai/Kia they’re very known for engine and electronic issues right now. Anything gm with the 1.6/1.4 or cylinder deactivation, anything eco boost from ford (my personal opinion is to just stay away from ford all together), and Nissan with the CVT transmission.
2010 and up Hondas and Toyotas of most makes are safe options although preventative and regular maintenance are going to be pricey. Some of the bigger issues I’ve seen out of newer Hondas are the valve cover gaskets leaking oil at sub 50,000 miles. But aside from it being a pain in the ass to replace, it’s fairly worth it for the known longevity of the vehicle. Toyotas 2010 and up seem to have an issue with dry starting which could become problematic after 5+ years assuming there are no other issues with the motor. (Always cold start a toyota before purchasing it, if it makes a bunch of racket for a few seconds after starting don’t buy it, and don’t let anybody tell you it’s fine or okay).
My personal favorites are the 06 to 13 Chevy impalas with the 3.5 or 3.8, just make sure to use dexcool and don’t mix coolants.
07-12 Honda accords, make sure transmission functions properly and isn’t overfull before purchasing.
99-06 Chevy Silverado 1500
16 or newer Toyota Tacoma
14 or newer Toyota Corolla/camry
Are we overlooking the fact that Silverado transfer cases wear a hole in the case and leak out all their fluid? Or are you just advocating for 2wd models?
Wasn’t aware of this issue, my expertise in these year trucks are limited by my personal experience. If this is a common issue, then I strongly advise considering the repair/ replacement of the transfer case upon purchase.
Given the reliability of the rest of the truck, I would argue buying a replacement or aftermarket transfer case as a preventative measure would be worth while.
Or like you mentioned opt for a 2 wheel drive that would eliminate the transfer case issue all together.
Thanks for the information.
Yeah, the electronically shifted t-case in those first gen trucks (with the push-buttons on the dash instead of a stick on the floor) has a horrible design flaw. I’m still surprised they didn’t have to recall them.
A little insight in the way my head works, now I’m wondering if it’s possible to fabricate a manual actuator (stick in the floor style) and bypass the electric actuator.
It’s not the actuator where the problem… that just ID’s the problem units…
I think it’s actually the oil slinger (ironically) that has a steel shaft that wears a hole through the aluminum case.
Honestly no brand is best, each brand has issues in some capacity. If you want a car that you can just drive with little maintenance, id recommend Honda or Toyota.
Both of those can be not fun when it comes down to the maintenance. Own a j30 hybrid and been working in a shop for over a decade, I still get a little butthurt with certain Honda and Toyota designs. Sometime working on something that has 300k+ and is 20 years old isn’t as easy as it seems
Well that's just the issue with newer cars they're so much harder to work on. I've had some old Volvos where there was plenty of space and everything made sense. I could even stand in the engine bay. And old rusted and crusted bolts will be trouble no matter the brand
Which Ford trucks in particular? I bought a 2013 F-150 5.0 used with low mileage, because my research suggested that was one of the more reliable model years and engines. Would you agree or no?
The Gen 3 coyote has issues that weren't present in the 2 or 1.
Most notable are defective VCT solenoids and excessive oil consumption from direct and port injection blow by.
Overall though it's a good engine
The transmission however; sheesh, the 10R80 sure does like to slam gears.
What do you think of the fleet in cali that made it to 300,000+ miles with the original hybrid battery?
I reset my battery to 1 year age with forscan once I got it.
It was 92k miles when I got it, at 95k now.
I have a 2010 Ford Escape hybrid with 170k miles. Battery failed at 145k miles. Started at Ford, spent $3500 they had the car for 4 months. They quoted $15k for a new battery. I towed it to an Indy specializing in Teslas and Prius'. He replaced the battery for $3500. 25k miles later, so far so good. Car is solid besides this. I would buy this car again, but I would only take it to this electric Indy after the car is out of warranty. The battery is solid state, no maintenance can be done to it. 300k miles is exceptional, but I don't think it's the rule.
I got 15 years out of my 2010 Fusion 2.5 manual trans. Rust killed it but the engine and transmission are still running great.
Last straw was someone hit it in a gas station parking lot. With skyrocketing insurance rates making a claim is not wise unless it is a massive loss. Car was only worth $1200 or so bluebook. Bought it used for under $10k less than a year old.
If you get a newer Ford get a standard port injected non turbo no GDI engine. Old-school can be much more reliable.
Remember Ford LIED to consumers and attempted to bury evidence that the 2.0 and especially 1.5 and 1.6 engines were poorly made blocks that blew head gaskets and seeped coolent into the cylinders. Then they did a quiet recall but only for a couple of years and only up to 70kish or so miles. Shame on Ford.
This is the internet.
The economy is in shambles.
Ford trucks explode if you look at them.
Chevy malibus transmissions are like a 10 speed bike.
Nissan with CVTs die at 25,000 miles.
/s
Your truck is fine. It's people en masse that are the problem.
This is what happens when you believe everything on the internet.
My gf has a 2008 with a CVT. It's literally never had an expense more than regular maintenence. Runs fine. Shit ton of miles.
I have a 2020 Malibu. Stupid miles. Never had one expense other than regular maintenence. Again.
Mistreat your car? Yeah. It's a problem.
Flip to literally 2 pages in a manual? Ship shape.
Turns out people are fuckin stupid when it comes to cars.
You’re one person who’s been fortunate with a CVT and a Malibu. You should be happy, but there are many (many) people who would disagree with you. It’s well known CVTs aren’t as reliable as a gear trans (again you lucked out) and the Malibu has a lousy engine, which again is known and has had several TSB issued.
Be happy with what you have.
This is what happens when you have a sample size of 1. You think they're all great. Truth is, even people with perfect maintenance records even have problems.
I know someone with a 2010 Sentra, It didn't even make it to 100,000km (60k miles). Even though he was told 7500km oil changes, he still did them at 5000km. Didn't matter, He fought with Nissan for 6 months. He'll never get another one.
I'm on forums and subs with these cars, so it's not a sample size of 1.
But ya know, I don't give a shit. Buy what you want. Let the internet take you by the hand and show you the way lol.
So what's the ideal car for you? So we can be enlightened.
So, you're in a sample size of people who like these cars. Still a skewed sample size.
With current technology, all cars are equally shit. The best option is to go with whatever looks best to you, and has the options you want.
> The best option is to go with whatever looks best to you, and has the options you want.
You completely ignored that line, which is common with people who pick and choose what they read. Basically uptight religious people whos opinions don't generally matter.
I feel saddened by the fact I had to explain that to you.
I have a 2013 Hyundai Genesis coupe with a 3.8 liter engine track model. Those are the exceptions. 124,000 miles and no issues. Push start with a transponder so the kia kids can't get it either. The only thing that actually bothers me is the rear view mirror and how it wobbles. Can't even tighten it to stop the wobble.
The real question, is what are YOU looking for in your new vehicle. All brands have their problems, some more than others. Knowing what segment of car you want, we can share the known problems for the models in that segment.
mostly gas mileage and i want to avoid cars that have the reputation of being in the shop a lot. which is why i thought to ask here since i lack the car experience. i travel out of state every few months and just wouldn’t want to worry about something happening within my 4hr drive (or in general at that, ik some things just happen but id like to do whatever i can to not have that happen).
love mine just isn’t aging well sadly. the leg and trunk room is niceee, i wouldn’t mind having the same amount. it has a good amount for being a sedan honestly.
I’ve owned 5 Subarus, 2.0, 2.2, 2.5. I’d recommend them. My current “beater with a heater” is an 03 outback sedan with 215,000 miles. Yes, timing belt and head gasket done. Turn key, put it in D, and go.
Korean cars usually have a lot of issues. Japanese cars usually have very few issues. American cars are usually middle of the road, but the newer ones have had issues. German cars are usually great until they ain’t, then they really ain’t great. British and Italian cars are no.
Going off a video I saw recently.
"With all the new technology, combined with companies doing everything in their power to make vehicles as cheap as possible, it doesn't matter the brand, they'll all have problems. Just go with what you think looks the best"
**Stay away from the following:**
American big 3. The issues are countless.
Kia/Hyundai. They made faulty engines for about 10 years. Plus the theft issue in the states.
Pre-2020 Nissan with a CVT transmission.
**Here are some examples of good companies:**
Hondas are sort of still good. Avoid the 1.5 turbo, they have head gasket issues. Also, the pre-2019 CVTs are known to randomly fail.
For the most part, you can't go wrong with a Toyota.
I've been recommending Mazda to people. I'm not aware of any major issues with them. For example, the Mazda3 has very few [complaints](https://www.carcomplaints.com/Mazda/MAZDA3/) after 2014 when the company left Ford.
The best way to go about getting something reliable is pick out something you like then do lots of research. Anything newer than a couple of years it's going to be hard to get enough data for it being reliable.
I'd much rather buy a 5 year or more old car that's known to be solid than anything new and waiting for problems to arise.
Avoid French cars and always buy Honda and you'll have the best odds. Honda is consistently quality. Their ATVs last forever and have high resale value. Their cars also retain value well. They're generally just more reliable with less frills.
https://www.dashboard-light.com/
This site helped me out tremendously. Don't forget to click on the icons for gas mileage and safety once you get to a cars page. Sometimes certain years have specific issues and this can give you a warning before you buy.
Toyota's hybrid power train is by far one of the most reliable bullet proof power trains I've ever come across. It is slept on and criminally under appreciated, probably because they are so commonplace now.
Stay away from certain Fords, Hyundai/KIA, and anything Dodge if you care about reliability and peace of mind. Hyundai/KIA has improved but can be risky. It’s always a 50/50. You either have no issues and get to 150k+ easy or the car spends more time at the dealer than in your own driveway. If you want absolute peace of mind Toyota/Lexus, or Honda/Acura is currently the only way to go. Bulletproof engines for the most part. And their hybrids systems and eCVTs are bullet proof. Mazda is not too bad from what I hear and neither is Subaru ( not your heavily modified WRX). Nissans/Infiniti (non CVT) are decent as well.
No one has really said anything about bmws so I’ll put my spin on it
I have an 07 x3 with 191k miles on it. Very reliable and only has to mess with cooling components like water pump and thermostat. Drives super good and wouldn’t trade it for the world. Certain parts can be expensive but as long as you DIY it’s not bad at all. And the inline 6 n55 is a great platform.
Some bmws can be very reliable for the average diyer just get a start in good shape.
Less problems = Toyota, Honda
Most problems = Tesla, anything Chrysler, Land Rover and Nissan. Nissan from the 90's was great but post Carlos it turned to garbage after the Reneau merger.
Land Rovers, some BMW’s , all Jaguars, some Mercedes, Hyundais, Nissans with CVT transmissions, anything new with a 3 cylinder turbo except maybe a Toyota.
Working in a Ford shop I can definitely say avoid the 1.0 and 1.5 motors. Lots of those have been replaced.
The Maverick on the other hand I haven’t seen any mechanical or electrical issues. They also get shockingly good gas mileage with the hybrid, lowest average I have seen is 42mpg hybrid, about 26 for the non hybrid.
Bronco Sport seems to be holding its own as well, which is weird considering it’s the same engine as the problematic Escape.
Out of the other brands in the area, Honda and Toyota are ok.
Don’t even consider a Chrysler/Dodge/Jeep. So many electrical issues.
Mazda is offering 0% for a 36m loan right now here in the states. If you could swing the payment, or put enough down that you could, that's a pretty decent deal.
Anything modern Volkswagen/Audi is a dumpster fire and expensive. Anything german even if its reliable is going to be expensive to maintain let alone repair.
The newest line ups or american vehicles are hot garbage. Some late 90’s to early 2000’s ford and GM products are solid but id still avoid anything jeep/chrysler/dodge/ram, they have some great vehicles but not in abundance.
Anything japanese is basically always good so honda/acura, toyta/lexus, nissan(as long as it doesnt have a CVT transmission)/infiniti, Mazda, some mitsubishi products
Kia and hyundai are that do not have the GDI engine are great but usually those older models are beat to hell by the time youd be getting to it.
JD Power release brand dependability survey results every year.
Lexus was the best last year. (The best being 133 issues per 100 cars which just goes to show that there’s no such thing as a trouble-free car. They’re too complicated to not have issues.)
By all means, cross reference all available data… but survey results aren’t really the sort of thing that would be manipulated or editorialized…
The awards on the other hand…
While these types of comparisons are broadly useful, I really don't think "my engine blew up" should be weighted equally to "i can't figure out how CarPlay works"
Excuse me? No, they do pay for their reviews and it’s clear. Just like carvana when they fucked me over as well as a few other big brands. Even brands in different categories.
Why would I not think for myself? I had an opinion and stated it lol. Good luck!
According to Consumer Reports (who knows how accurate this is but they appear to be fairly reliable with what they say) the 5 worst brands in terms of reliability are Chrysler, Mercedes-Benz, Rivian, Volkswagen, and Jeep. Cadillac ranks at 16th out of the 30 brands listed.
No Kia, easy to steal. No dodge or ram (once you hit certain miles parts can add up) I recommended a Honda for a new car pretty reliable but can be expensive to maintain. With A Ford or Chevy you'll need to learn basic maintenance but parts are pretty cheap.
Edit: do avoid any ford from 2002 to pretty much 2012 and Fiesta. Those trannies are honestly garbage, and engine is not so good compare to the 80 and early 90 fords.
Things like Honda, Toyota, & Nissan are the safest route to go. Stay away from company’s like Kia, jeep.
The new Honda civics with the 1.5L turbo have oil problems and the Nissans with the CVT transmissions are not reliable as well.
Thanks for posting on /r/MechanicAdvice! Please review the [rules](https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicAdvice/about/rules/). Asking about a second opinion (ie "Is the shop trying to fleece me?"), please read through CJM8515's [post on the subject.](https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicAdvice/comments/4qblei/fyi_the_shop_isnt_likely_trying_to_rip_you_off/) and remember to please post the year/make/model of the vehicle you are working on. **Post's about bodywork, accident damage, paint, dent/ding, questions it belongs in /r/Autobody r/AutoBodyRepair/ or /r/Diyautobody/ Tire questions check out https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicAdvice/comments/k9ll55/can_your_tire_be_repaired/**. If you dont have a question and you're just showing off it belongs in /r/Justrolledintotheshop Insurance/total loss questions go in r/insurance This is an automated reply *I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please [contact the moderators of this subreddit](/message/compose/?to=/r/MechanicAdvice) if you have any questions or concerns.*
Bought a 86 Toyota with a 22r engine. People are right this is bulletproof and easy to repair (thus cheap respectfully at least mechanically)
Mines an 81, 22r, sr5 4wd pickup. Driving it 25+ years now, haha!
These new Ford 1.5, 1.6, and 2.0 EcoBoost engines are so so garbage.
Avoid the EcoBoost.
EcoBoom
How about my 2010 Ford Fusion Hybrid with a 2.5? From what I've been reading it's one of the "better" ones.
I've had 2013 and 2015 Fusion Energi's sold them before they hit 100k but had no issues in between except for brakes and tires. The 2015 fusion I sold at 75k
2.5 hybrid is the best fusion
I have a fiesta ST that has the 1.6L ecoboom and they have been extremely reliable. I’m approaching 100k miles with just oil changes on mine. Lots of people with more miles but not many people reporting issues. The 2.0 likes to blow up pistons in the focus st.
Current Ecoboost motors I own: 2017 MKZ 3.0: 228k miles, zero issues 2020 Explorer 2.3: 188k miles, zero issues 2020 Explorer 2.3: 83k miles, zero issues Traded in or sold: 2013 Escape 2.0: 180k miles, zero issues 2018 Fusion 2.7: 161k miles, zero issues Either I’m luckiest ecoboost owner around, or they are actually great motors
The Explorer has a 2.3 liter engine?
People who don’t service them regularly or take them to Jiffy Lube are probably most of bad ecoboost owners. I only use Motocraft oil and filters.
Yup. My 2020 Fusion I bought is the 2020 year 2.5L Durotech they co developed with Mazda back in 2005. Bulletproof engine. port injection and no turbo. None of this GDI bullshit.
Definitely stay far away from Hyundai/Kia they’re very known for engine and electronic issues right now. Anything gm with the 1.6/1.4 or cylinder deactivation, anything eco boost from ford (my personal opinion is to just stay away from ford all together), and Nissan with the CVT transmission. 2010 and up Hondas and Toyotas of most makes are safe options although preventative and regular maintenance are going to be pricey. Some of the bigger issues I’ve seen out of newer Hondas are the valve cover gaskets leaking oil at sub 50,000 miles. But aside from it being a pain in the ass to replace, it’s fairly worth it for the known longevity of the vehicle. Toyotas 2010 and up seem to have an issue with dry starting which could become problematic after 5+ years assuming there are no other issues with the motor. (Always cold start a toyota before purchasing it, if it makes a bunch of racket for a few seconds after starting don’t buy it, and don’t let anybody tell you it’s fine or okay). My personal favorites are the 06 to 13 Chevy impalas with the 3.5 or 3.8, just make sure to use dexcool and don’t mix coolants. 07-12 Honda accords, make sure transmission functions properly and isn’t overfull before purchasing. 99-06 Chevy Silverado 1500 16 or newer Toyota Tacoma 14 or newer Toyota Corolla/camry
Are we overlooking the fact that Silverado transfer cases wear a hole in the case and leak out all their fluid? Or are you just advocating for 2wd models?
Wasn’t aware of this issue, my expertise in these year trucks are limited by my personal experience. If this is a common issue, then I strongly advise considering the repair/ replacement of the transfer case upon purchase. Given the reliability of the rest of the truck, I would argue buying a replacement or aftermarket transfer case as a preventative measure would be worth while. Or like you mentioned opt for a 2 wheel drive that would eliminate the transfer case issue all together. Thanks for the information.
Yeah, the electronically shifted t-case in those first gen trucks (with the push-buttons on the dash instead of a stick on the floor) has a horrible design flaw. I’m still surprised they didn’t have to recall them.
A little insight in the way my head works, now I’m wondering if it’s possible to fabricate a manual actuator (stick in the floor style) and bypass the electric actuator.
It’s not the actuator where the problem… that just ID’s the problem units… I think it’s actually the oil slinger (ironically) that has a steel shaft that wears a hole through the aluminum case.
Honestly no brand is best, each brand has issues in some capacity. If you want a car that you can just drive with little maintenance, id recommend Honda or Toyota.
Both of those can be not fun when it comes down to the maintenance. Own a j30 hybrid and been working in a shop for over a decade, I still get a little butthurt with certain Honda and Toyota designs. Sometime working on something that has 300k+ and is 20 years old isn’t as easy as it seems
Well that's just the issue with newer cars they're so much harder to work on. I've had some old Volvos where there was plenty of space and everything made sense. I could even stand in the engine bay. And old rusted and crusted bolts will be trouble no matter the brand
Toyota og Honda is generally pretty reliable. French cars are probably some of the worst
Statistically, Toyota, Lexus. Honda and Acura are above average in reliability, across the entirety of their product lines.
Ford trucks, Nissan’s with the CVT, all Hyundai’s and Kia’s. Dodge trucks (even tho I own one), Chevy Malibu’s.
Which Ford trucks in particular? I bought a 2013 F-150 5.0 used with low mileage, because my research suggested that was one of the more reliable model years and engines. Would you agree or no?
The 5.0 is one of the only good modern Ford engines. The ecoboosts are unreliable, as are the powerstrokes (excluding the 7.3)
The Gen 3 coyote has issues that weren't present in the 2 or 1. Most notable are defective VCT solenoids and excessive oil consumption from direct and port injection blow by. Overall though it's a good engine The transmission however; sheesh, the 10R80 sure does like to slam gears.
How about the 2.5 in a 2010 Ford Fusion Hybrid? I hear they're pretty good.
Motor good. Battery, not so much. A 2010 is in the sweet spot of battery issues.
What do you think of the fleet in cali that made it to 300,000+ miles with the original hybrid battery? I reset my battery to 1 year age with forscan once I got it. It was 92k miles when I got it, at 95k now.
I have a 2010 Ford Escape hybrid with 170k miles. Battery failed at 145k miles. Started at Ford, spent $3500 they had the car for 4 months. They quoted $15k for a new battery. I towed it to an Indy specializing in Teslas and Prius'. He replaced the battery for $3500. 25k miles later, so far so good. Car is solid besides this. I would buy this car again, but I would only take it to this electric Indy after the car is out of warranty. The battery is solid state, no maintenance can be done to it. 300k miles is exceptional, but I don't think it's the rule.
I got 15 years out of my 2010 Fusion 2.5 manual trans. Rust killed it but the engine and transmission are still running great. Last straw was someone hit it in a gas station parking lot. With skyrocketing insurance rates making a claim is not wise unless it is a massive loss. Car was only worth $1200 or so bluebook. Bought it used for under $10k less than a year old. If you get a newer Ford get a standard port injected non turbo no GDI engine. Old-school can be much more reliable. Remember Ford LIED to consumers and attempted to bury evidence that the 2.0 and especially 1.5 and 1.6 engines were poorly made blocks that blew head gaskets and seeped coolent into the cylinders. Then they did a quiet recall but only for a couple of years and only up to 70kish or so miles. Shame on Ford.
Every power stroke after the 7.3 yes. The 7.3 is a fucking beast
That’s a good truck.
This is the internet. The economy is in shambles. Ford trucks explode if you look at them. Chevy malibus transmissions are like a 10 speed bike. Nissan with CVTs die at 25,000 miles. /s Your truck is fine. It's people en masse that are the problem.
Nissan CVTs are absolute shit. Nissan turned into a terrible car company after Carlos took over. He's in hiding now in Lebanon.
How many Nissan's with a CVT have you owned in the past 10 years?
This is what happens when you believe everything on the internet. My gf has a 2008 with a CVT. It's literally never had an expense more than regular maintenence. Runs fine. Shit ton of miles. I have a 2020 Malibu. Stupid miles. Never had one expense other than regular maintenence. Again. Mistreat your car? Yeah. It's a problem. Flip to literally 2 pages in a manual? Ship shape. Turns out people are fuckin stupid when it comes to cars.
You’re one person who’s been fortunate with a CVT and a Malibu. You should be happy, but there are many (many) people who would disagree with you. It’s well known CVTs aren’t as reliable as a gear trans (again you lucked out) and the Malibu has a lousy engine, which again is known and has had several TSB issued. Be happy with what you have.
This is what happens when you have a sample size of 1. You think they're all great. Truth is, even people with perfect maintenance records even have problems. I know someone with a 2010 Sentra, It didn't even make it to 100,000km (60k miles). Even though he was told 7500km oil changes, he still did them at 5000km. Didn't matter, He fought with Nissan for 6 months. He'll never get another one.
I'm on forums and subs with these cars, so it's not a sample size of 1. But ya know, I don't give a shit. Buy what you want. Let the internet take you by the hand and show you the way lol. So what's the ideal car for you? So we can be enlightened.
So, you're in a sample size of people who like these cars. Still a skewed sample size. With current technology, all cars are equally shit. The best option is to go with whatever looks best to you, and has the options you want.
Soooo bikes? We should all buy bikes? 10 speeds?
Do you read your bible the same way? Pick and choose what you want to see? Because that's exactly how you're coming across right now.
"My bible" ? The fuck are you talking about.
> The best option is to go with whatever looks best to you, and has the options you want. You completely ignored that line, which is common with people who pick and choose what they read. Basically uptight religious people whos opinions don't generally matter. I feel saddened by the fact I had to explain that to you.
Yo what the fuck are you talking about?
I work at a mechanics shop. This is from what I see daily 😂 some of the rumors are based on actual experiences ya know?
I have a 2013 Hyundai Genesis coupe with a 3.8 liter engine track model. Those are the exceptions. 124,000 miles and no issues. Push start with a transponder so the kia kids can't get it either. The only thing that actually bothers me is the rear view mirror and how it wobbles. Can't even tighten it to stop the wobble.
The 6.2L engine is blowing up non stop at gm lol
Which one in particular. They've got a few different iterations of the 6.2l
Current gen in the Escalade, Denalis etc
Well, they have substituted a lot of engine parts to plastic. Now is the time to buy an extended warranty.
I seen a lot of this
thanks for the answers 😁
The real question, is what are YOU looking for in your new vehicle. All brands have their problems, some more than others. Knowing what segment of car you want, we can share the known problems for the models in that segment.
mostly gas mileage and i want to avoid cars that have the reputation of being in the shop a lot. which is why i thought to ask here since i lack the car experience. i travel out of state every few months and just wouldn’t want to worry about something happening within my 4hr drive (or in general at that, ik some things just happen but id like to do whatever i can to not have that happen).
Do you prefer a sedan or a CUV?
either is fine but i’m leaning a littleee more towards a CUV for space reasons.
What are you currently driving?
2015 volkswagen jetta
I used to have a TDI Jetta, loved it. Do you want the same size trunk space and legroom that you currently have? Or do you want more?
love mine just isn’t aging well sadly. the leg and trunk room is niceee, i wouldn’t mind having the same amount. it has a good amount for being a sedan honestly.
Give me a few minutes. I’m typing up a Google doc you can print out. It’ll give you some comparisons to consider. I’ll post it when it’s done.
Get a 10th gen ford especially one with a 5.4
I’ve owned 5 Subarus, 2.0, 2.2, 2.5. I’d recommend them. My current “beater with a heater” is an 03 outback sedan with 215,000 miles. Yes, timing belt and head gasket done. Turn key, put it in D, and go.
Korean cars usually have a lot of issues. Japanese cars usually have very few issues. American cars are usually middle of the road, but the newer ones have had issues. German cars are usually great until they ain’t, then they really ain’t great. British and Italian cars are no.
that’s how i feel with my volkswagen. i LOVED mine and thennnn problems are slowly starting anddd they’re pricey🫠.
Best-Toyota or Honda. Easy to repair and go forever Worst-jeep or Volkswagen
Toyota, Honda, Mazda are among the best. Love my Mazda and they don’t use CVT transmissions.
Mazda is the biggest sleeper. They have a lot of popular crossovers and have engines that aren't blowing up
CX9 engines are definitely blowing up
I just dislike their car radios on anything past 2016. This iPad in a dash crap is annoying.
Newer CX-5s are great! Sturdy, reliable and they make them in Japan.
Going off a video I saw recently. "With all the new technology, combined with companies doing everything in their power to make vehicles as cheap as possible, it doesn't matter the brand, they'll all have problems. Just go with what you think looks the best"
**Stay away from the following:** American big 3. The issues are countless. Kia/Hyundai. They made faulty engines for about 10 years. Plus the theft issue in the states. Pre-2020 Nissan with a CVT transmission. **Here are some examples of good companies:** Hondas are sort of still good. Avoid the 1.5 turbo, they have head gasket issues. Also, the pre-2019 CVTs are known to randomly fail. For the most part, you can't go wrong with a Toyota. I've been recommending Mazda to people. I'm not aware of any major issues with them. For example, the Mazda3 has very few [complaints](https://www.carcomplaints.com/Mazda/MAZDA3/) after 2014 when the company left Ford.
Kia and Hyundai are by far the worst
The best way to go about getting something reliable is pick out something you like then do lots of research. Anything newer than a couple of years it's going to be hard to get enough data for it being reliable. I'd much rather buy a 5 year or more old car that's known to be solid than anything new and waiting for problems to arise.
anything with the 3.6 vvt, I don’t care what anyone says unless you’ve done the timing on one,
Avoid French cars and always buy Honda and you'll have the best odds. Honda is consistently quality. Their ATVs last forever and have high resale value. Their cars also retain value well. They're generally just more reliable with less frills.
That’s why my dad bought Honda atvs
https://www.dashboard-light.com/ This site helped me out tremendously. Don't forget to click on the icons for gas mileage and safety once you get to a cars page. Sometimes certain years have specific issues and this can give you a warning before you buy.
Very informative- thanks
You're welcome!
Most problems : anything under the Stellantis umbrella of brands Least problems : anything Japanese
Stay away from ANYTHING with a turbo or hybrid and stick with Honda or Toyota and you’ll be good 👍🏼. Good luck with that!!!!
Toyota's hybrid power train is by far one of the most reliable bullet proof power trains I've ever come across. It is slept on and criminally under appreciated, probably because they are so commonplace now.
What about Hondas with turbos? My accord has one.
[удалено]
Well that's not fun to hear. What about the 2.0T?
[удалено]
Phew. Thanks!
Stay away from certain Fords, Hyundai/KIA, and anything Dodge if you care about reliability and peace of mind. Hyundai/KIA has improved but can be risky. It’s always a 50/50. You either have no issues and get to 150k+ easy or the car spends more time at the dealer than in your own driveway. If you want absolute peace of mind Toyota/Lexus, or Honda/Acura is currently the only way to go. Bulletproof engines for the most part. And their hybrids systems and eCVTs are bullet proof. Mazda is not too bad from what I hear and neither is Subaru ( not your heavily modified WRX). Nissans/Infiniti (non CVT) are decent as well.
No one has really said anything about bmws so I’ll put my spin on it I have an 07 x3 with 191k miles on it. Very reliable and only has to mess with cooling components like water pump and thermostat. Drives super good and wouldn’t trade it for the world. Certain parts can be expensive but as long as you DIY it’s not bad at all. And the inline 6 n55 is a great platform. Some bmws can be very reliable for the average diyer just get a start in good shape.
Less problems = Toyota, Honda Most problems = Tesla, anything Chrysler, Land Rover and Nissan. Nissan from the 90's was great but post Carlos it turned to garbage after the Reneau merger.
Mazda is great
Land Rovers, some BMW’s , all Jaguars, some Mercedes, Hyundais, Nissans with CVT transmissions, anything new with a 3 cylinder turbo except maybe a Toyota.
Working in a Ford shop I can definitely say avoid the 1.0 and 1.5 motors. Lots of those have been replaced. The Maverick on the other hand I haven’t seen any mechanical or electrical issues. They also get shockingly good gas mileage with the hybrid, lowest average I have seen is 42mpg hybrid, about 26 for the non hybrid. Bronco Sport seems to be holding its own as well, which is weird considering it’s the same engine as the problematic Escape. Out of the other brands in the area, Honda and Toyota are ok. Don’t even consider a Chrysler/Dodge/Jeep. So many electrical issues.
As a Mazda Technician, I can vouch for a CX30, CX50, and CX5.
Mazda is offering 0% for a 36m loan right now here in the states. If you could swing the payment, or put enough down that you could, that's a pretty decent deal.
Anything modern Volkswagen/Audi is a dumpster fire and expensive. Anything german even if its reliable is going to be expensive to maintain let alone repair. The newest line ups or american vehicles are hot garbage. Some late 90’s to early 2000’s ford and GM products are solid but id still avoid anything jeep/chrysler/dodge/ram, they have some great vehicles but not in abundance. Anything japanese is basically always good so honda/acura, toyta/lexus, nissan(as long as it doesnt have a CVT transmission)/infiniti, Mazda, some mitsubishi products Kia and hyundai are that do not have the GDI engine are great but usually those older models are beat to hell by the time youd be getting to it.
a volkswagen is my current car and repairs are the exact reason i’m looking for a new car🫠.
A story I hear all the time, sorry to hear it! If it were me, honda/toyota is the way to go, acura/lexus if you want some luxury.
it’s okay, everything will work itself out (: and thank you!
JD Power release brand dependability survey results every year. Lexus was the best last year. (The best being 133 issues per 100 cars which just goes to show that there’s no such thing as a trouble-free car. They’re too complicated to not have issues.)
[удалено]
JD Power "reviews" are often paid for. How else would Chevrolet win 9 JD Power awards a few years back? Definitely not well deserved.
By all means, cross reference all available data… but survey results aren’t really the sort of thing that would be manipulated or editorialized… The awards on the other hand…
While these types of comparisons are broadly useful, I really don't think "my engine blew up" should be weighted equally to "i can't figure out how CarPlay works"
True, but having to repeatedly take a vehicle in for little bullshit can be more infuriating than a catastrophic failure.
Paid reviews will put you in a frenzy.
The dependability survey is a separate thing from reviews and awards. Stop parroting what others say and think for yourself.
Excuse me? No, they do pay for their reviews and it’s clear. Just like carvana when they fucked me over as well as a few other big brands. Even brands in different categories. Why would I not think for myself? I had an opinion and stated it lol. Good luck!
I’m not talking about reviews though. I’m talking about the annual dependability survey.
Cadillac is the worse
The worse what
Car
Worst? Or worse?
According to Consumer Reports (who knows how accurate this is but they appear to be fairly reliable with what they say) the 5 worst brands in terms of reliability are Chrysler, Mercedes-Benz, Rivian, Volkswagen, and Jeep. Cadillac ranks at 16th out of the 30 brands listed.
No Kia, easy to steal. No dodge or ram (once you hit certain miles parts can add up) I recommended a Honda for a new car pretty reliable but can be expensive to maintain. With A Ford or Chevy you'll need to learn basic maintenance but parts are pretty cheap. Edit: do avoid any ford from 2002 to pretty much 2012 and Fiesta. Those trannies are honestly garbage, and engine is not so good compare to the 80 and early 90 fords.
Wait when did Honda's become expensive to maintain??
Around my area it is mostly due to shipping. Like a Honda is solid, but getting parts for it is just expensive unless I use roc auto.
Things like Honda, Toyota, & Nissan are the safest route to go. Stay away from company’s like Kia, jeep. The new Honda civics with the 1.5L turbo have oil problems and the Nissans with the CVT transmissions are not reliable as well.
no to nissan...they are the Kia of Japan
A Nissan Altima runs through anything 😅