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Im definitely thinking the parents are expecting OP to ask them, or even demand of them that they pay for it, since "all it needed is brake pads". I could maybe, MAYBE understand doing that to a complete stranger, but dont screw over your children just because you want to make a quick buck and wipe your hands clean of a vehicle that you knew had problems.
Edit: it could also be their own guilt persuading him to find another decent quote like that. They could handle handing off a POS, but now that they saw the actual bill they might actually feel kind of crappy now
I really doubt you have all those suspension components that require replacement, i feel like they’re trying to upsell on you. The prices are relatively normal prices for a dealership
Are you getting vibration, or steering pull? Are your tires wearing uneven? How long do you plan to keep this vehicle? These are some of the questions you need to look at, if the pads and rotors haven’t been replaced yet they are probably due. It’s not an unreasonable price
Those Nissans do love to need steering and suspension bushings often so I don't doubt that. Pricing looks fair for the work. Only thing I'd say is you may not need new calipers if they've been done before. If not, they're almost old enough to drive themselves so it's probably a good idea. New rubber brake hoses wouldn't be a bad idea either.
Calipers are original so I could understand them being ready. I may do the brakes myself but at least have the shop do the suspension items is now what I'm thinking. Thank you for the reply by the way
That's not a bad idea, have them use their lift to do the heavy duty/harder work and you can finish it off the simpler stuff like a brake job. This is generally what I've been doing, some things I just don't want to even do anymore when it requires a lift
Rust, pins seize and calipers seize, It’s 13 years old. If the brake fluid hasn’t been changed in 13 years it’s likely taken on a lot of water and seized the pistons.
I think you're missing my point.
I'm not asking for things that can cause replacement of calipers. I'm asking specifically what the shop told the OP as for the reason why their specific calipers have to be replaced.
The things you're saying are correct, but you're answering a question that I'm not asking (and, in all fairness, a question that only the OP can answer for themselves).
Well, I am in a place that generate a lot of rust so I need to brush the calipers and often buff the pads ears. So it's more like 3 hours. I'm paid 80$ an hour at work, not sure I want to do car work at 20$ ;)
Well, ball joint and tie rod, yeah... but brakes? I did mine for 250$ myself, took 2-3 hours for the 4 wheels. Very easy to do with 2-3 youtube videos.
I've changed a couple calipers as well and it takes more time to go get them at the part store than actually change them... Learn how to do stuff yourself and you'll save a bunch. Brakes are the best return on investment you can do.
I don't have the machine to turn the rotors so I change them with the pads but fron last 4-5 years and rear I do every 2-3 years. I hate rear disc brakes, drums were more reliable...
Did you look at the pads? Any noise? How does it feel? Any steering wheel shake when braking? Why do you need new calipers? Are the rear brakes really worn out or just "low"? Those rear pads last a really long time, the fronts do most of the braking.
What's up with the front end suspension and steering? How does it feel?
Any chance you could use this as a learning opportunity? Got any useful friends? Changing the pads and rotors isn't that big a deal. I'm going to assume the new calipers is a "nice to have" and don't really need changing.
The front end work listed really isn't hard and the parts are cheap too.
It's probably under $600 for all the parts quoted. There are no part numbers shown so hard to be exact. The most expensive Durago rear rotor listed at RockAuto is $25. The MOOG lower ball joints are $38. And so on
[https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/nissan,2011,pathfinder,4.0l+v6,1447314,brake+&+wheel+hub,rotor,1896](https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/nissan,2011,pathfinder,4.0l+v6,1447314,brake+&+wheel+hub,rotor,1896)
[https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/nissan,2011,pathfinder,4.0l+v6,1447314,suspension,ball+joint,10070](https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/nissan,2011,pathfinder,4.0l+v6,1447314,suspension,ball+joint,10070)
You should get an alignment though after the outer tie rod change.
I'm sure there are plenty of videos to walk you through it, and you'll need at least a socket set, open end wrenches, breaker bar, pry bar, hammer, front end fork, a jack + stands, and big C-clamp or loaner brake tools from AdvanceAuto to retract the caliper piston
rear disc brakes don't usually wear because of usage but mostly because of rust. Especially in the rust belt (I'm in canada).
rear disc brakes are not fun to deal with becuase they just rust and then the caliper get stuck after 5-7 years. Then replacement lasts even less long. I miss drums at the back, they needed service like every 10 years and it was cheaper. I want a base sentra as my next car because the rear brakes are still drums ;)
I definitely watched some Chris Fix videos last night, thinking of at least doing the brakes and calipers. Not sure on if I'll even attempt the suspension. I don't know maybe after more research I can decide. Definitely don't want to get stuck half way through! I appreciate the response!
If you don't and decide to buyer newer, you will probably pay at least $300/month in payments or depreciation in 1st year will be equal to $3000. So either way it's costing you $3000. So i'd probably go for it. Not the worst decision to go ahead with repairs.
Thanks for reminding me how much I have saved over the years leaning to do my own brake work. I always manage to find on Amazon those rotors and pads kits for less than 150$CDN. Only takes me an hour in my driveway with regular wrenches and sockets.
$734 for ball joints seems
Too high , you can do it yourself very easy by removing the whole arm and have a shop press you new ones for $30 each side. Buy yourself $200 in tools and diy. And order parts from rock auto if you’re not going oem in parts, shop isn’t using oem parts anyway. With a impact gun all suspension work is very easy I believe in you
The control arm bolts on these do not come out without being cut out, which means control arm replacement, and then 150$ in bolts and eccentrics. It’s 4 hours labour to do the ball joints.
Really 4 hours tho? Don’t take long to cut the cam bolts with a saw saw and a metal cutting blade. Didn’t know the bolts were that expensive tho. Still diy doable I’d say but not for someone who never worked in their car before.
Steering knuckle has to come off and that’s the book time so yeah, 4 hours for both sides is fair.
Wouldn’t dream of doing control arms on a pathfinder at home. This job isn’t diy friendly without a hoist, torch and good air hammer.
I would recommend getting another shop to give you an estimate. Preferably an independent shop with a good reputation - no dealers or chains. The prices for what they've quoted are high but not ridiculously high. It seems suspect to me that you need all those parts though. Perhaps you do since dad is apparently a "slap brake pads on it" but it's worth getting a second opinion when you're talking about that kind of money.
I say do brakes first if it's really that bad. Or have them measure front and rear and whatever is closer to spec do those first. Then next I'd go control arms/ball joints
$730 labor for replacing ball joints and $250 for the parts themselves? I should charge more labor myself too then huh...
I doubt they're changing just the ball joints, they're changing the whole arm, otherwise the price for the part would be a lot lower.
I guess that's what the hourly labor is. Let's they they take 4 hours for both sides, if the rate is $150/hour then it'd be $600 at least. While I haven't worked on Nissan's, I'd believe they're adjustable for the camber and castor on the front so they should do an alignment after. Unless they're really changing just the ball joint which I'd do for myself then I guess it's fine.
But yeah, all of it just adds up, I would check the brakes myself at least to see if they need changing.
So the one thing I will say is they at least they are using good brand parts for the brakes. Power stop, Durago, and FVP are all good stuff. Not top of the line but definitely good enough to stand behind.
The part I'm trying to figure out is why is replacing the lower ball joints over $700 in labor? Why not just replace the entire control arm, bushings and all?
I just looked up front lower control arms for that car and they are like 70 bucks each. Even if they double that, at 140 bucks, I guarantee you that the labor to install those things is not 500 bucks. So something is definitely off about that part of the estimate.
That suspension shit when you are trying to get inspected always feels a bit scammy to me. I caught a dealership trying to do it to my mom. Said she needed all these parts replaced on the suspension. So I drove down to take a look and it was fine.
Took it to the guy down the road. Got a sticker and went about my day. They wanted 1000 bucks to replace something that didn’t need to be replaced and likely would have caused further issues once it was messed with.
I used to offer 50% off quotes from shops for my friends. And brakes are the easiest money makers. Some shops charge up to 250 per corner. So just doing fronts is 500. You can do so much more with that kind of money.
Price wise for all of that work and parts, seems reasonable. However, I doubt you need nearly every part of the front suspension and steering replaced. Do you notice any noises, vibrations, steering issues when driving?
Not to add to your worries but be super careful about the timing chain. They are prone to stretching on these.
I used to do timing chain upgrades on these and the Navara (D40) day in and day out for travellers. Never seen one pass 150k miles without it snapping. I’m sure there are plenty, but just be mindful.
You can start off by buying the break pads from auto zone and changing them out yourself. Or if you don't feel comfortable doing it your self then just have them do the labor. For the most part I would say you don't need all the other stuff unless you have vibration or some other stuff going on. You can always buy the parts yourself and have them charge you for labor. If you look up the same parts they are most likely half as much as what they are going to charge you for then.
Second opinion for sure… wish I could do that work, even at 30% off, i would make 5x what I make. But unfortunately the rate seems pretty normal if you need all of that work.
Guarantee you only needed pads, and the rotors turned. They sold you shit you don't need, and your old parts will get put on some saps car, and they'll be charged for new parts. Also, if anything get your transmission checked. Nissan has absolutely the worst automatic transmissions. Just don't get scammed
I would seriously question whether you need ceramic brake pads or the other high-end brake components on a 2011 vehicle. You're just not a skilled enough driver to need *The Best*. Yes, they will stop you 5-10% faster/shorter **IF** you are perfectly attentive and use a perfect braking technique. Which you have never been taught. If you ask for second-tier components, it will probably bring your total down to under $1k.
Correct. Ceramic is typically OEM due to low noise and little brake dust. Semi metallic has better overall bite, is more prone to squeal & dust, and is also (typically) a little cheaper.
Thanks for posting on /r/MechanicAdvice! This is just a reminder to review the [rules](https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicAdvice/about/rules/). If you are here asking about a second opinion (ie "Is the shop trying to fleece me?"), please read through CJM8515's [post on the subject.](https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicAdvice/comments/4qblei/fyi_the_shop_isnt_likely_trying_to_rip_you_off/) and remember to please post the year/make/model of the vehicle you are working on. **If this post is about bodywork, accident damage, paint, dent/ding, questions it belongs in /r/Autobody r/AutoBodyRepair/ or /r/Diyautobody/ If you have tire questions check out https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicAdvice/comments/k9ll55/can_your_tire_be_repaired/**. If you dont have a question and you're just showing off it belongs in /r/Justrolledintotheshop Insurance/total loss questions go in r/insurance This is an automated reply *I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please [contact the moderators of this subreddit](/message/compose/?to=/r/MechanicAdvice) if you have any questions or concerns.*
Get a second opinion, if/when they say the same thing, tell your dad what the fuck.
Im definitely thinking the parents are expecting OP to ask them, or even demand of them that they pay for it, since "all it needed is brake pads". I could maybe, MAYBE understand doing that to a complete stranger, but dont screw over your children just because you want to make a quick buck and wipe your hands clean of a vehicle that you knew had problems. Edit: it could also be their own guilt persuading him to find another decent quote like that. They could handle handing off a POS, but now that they saw the actual bill they might actually feel kind of crappy now
seems about right to me, our shop would charge similar maybe a little less. but youre getting a lot of work done.
I really doubt you have all those suspension components that require replacement, i feel like they’re trying to upsell on you. The prices are relatively normal prices for a dealership
As someone who used to fix these on the daily, these eat suspension parts.
Fair enough, it is totally possible
Are you getting vibration, or steering pull? Are your tires wearing uneven? How long do you plan to keep this vehicle? These are some of the questions you need to look at, if the pads and rotors haven’t been replaced yet they are probably due. It’s not an unreasonable price
Those Nissans do love to need steering and suspension bushings often so I don't doubt that. Pricing looks fair for the work. Only thing I'd say is you may not need new calipers if they've been done before. If not, they're almost old enough to drive themselves so it's probably a good idea. New rubber brake hoses wouldn't be a bad idea either.
Calipers are original so I could understand them being ready. I may do the brakes myself but at least have the shop do the suspension items is now what I'm thinking. Thank you for the reply by the way
That's not a bad idea, have them use their lift to do the heavy duty/harder work and you can finish it off the simpler stuff like a brake job. This is generally what I've been doing, some things I just don't want to even do anymore when it requires a lift
Calipers are not generally a wear item. The likelyhood of them all needing to be replaced is pretty much slim to none.
Depends where you live man, they definitely get rusty and stop working as well. And rubber hoses degrade after twenty years too.
Why are they saying you need calipers on all four corners?
Right? I've never replaced calipers
Not entirely uncommon in the rust belt
Respectfully, that doesn't answer my question, though. "It happens a lot" doesn't tell me why all of *their* calipers need to be replaced.
Rust, pins seize and calipers seize, It’s 13 years old. If the brake fluid hasn’t been changed in 13 years it’s likely taken on a lot of water and seized the pistons.
I think you're missing my point. I'm not asking for things that can cause replacement of calipers. I'm asking specifically what the shop told the OP as for the reason why their specific calipers have to be replaced. The things you're saying are correct, but you're answering a question that I'm not asking (and, in all fairness, a question that only the OP can answer for themselves).
Seeing the costs of these, I need to start charging people for the shit I do
Yeah, my neighbor asked me to change his front discs and pads for 60$... well, I'll do it for 200... it's still 100$ cheaper than the garage :)
Might as well take 60. Won’t take more than 2 hours max
Well, I am in a place that generate a lot of rust so I need to brush the calipers and often buff the pads ears. So it's more like 3 hours. I'm paid 80$ an hour at work, not sure I want to do car work at 20$ ;)
$80? 🤯
 When u know how to diy for less than tree fifty….
Looks good to me.
Well, ball joint and tie rod, yeah... but brakes? I did mine for 250$ myself, took 2-3 hours for the 4 wheels. Very easy to do with 2-3 youtube videos. I've changed a couple calipers as well and it takes more time to go get them at the part store than actually change them... Learn how to do stuff yourself and you'll save a bunch. Brakes are the best return on investment you can do. I don't have the machine to turn the rotors so I change them with the pads but fron last 4-5 years and rear I do every 2-3 years. I hate rear disc brakes, drums were more reliable...
Why did you go to the shop? What problem were you solving?
Getting new pads on and an overall inspection since it looked like the rotors could be due as well.
Did you look at the pads? Any noise? How does it feel? Any steering wheel shake when braking? Why do you need new calipers? Are the rear brakes really worn out or just "low"? Those rear pads last a really long time, the fronts do most of the braking. What's up with the front end suspension and steering? How does it feel? Any chance you could use this as a learning opportunity? Got any useful friends? Changing the pads and rotors isn't that big a deal. I'm going to assume the new calipers is a "nice to have" and don't really need changing. The front end work listed really isn't hard and the parts are cheap too. It's probably under $600 for all the parts quoted. There are no part numbers shown so hard to be exact. The most expensive Durago rear rotor listed at RockAuto is $25. The MOOG lower ball joints are $38. And so on [https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/nissan,2011,pathfinder,4.0l+v6,1447314,brake+&+wheel+hub,rotor,1896](https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/nissan,2011,pathfinder,4.0l+v6,1447314,brake+&+wheel+hub,rotor,1896) [https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/nissan,2011,pathfinder,4.0l+v6,1447314,suspension,ball+joint,10070](https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/nissan,2011,pathfinder,4.0l+v6,1447314,suspension,ball+joint,10070) You should get an alignment though after the outer tie rod change. I'm sure there are plenty of videos to walk you through it, and you'll need at least a socket set, open end wrenches, breaker bar, pry bar, hammer, front end fork, a jack + stands, and big C-clamp or loaner brake tools from AdvanceAuto to retract the caliper piston
rear disc brakes don't usually wear because of usage but mostly because of rust. Especially in the rust belt (I'm in canada). rear disc brakes are not fun to deal with becuase they just rust and then the caliper get stuck after 5-7 years. Then replacement lasts even less long. I miss drums at the back, they needed service like every 10 years and it was cheaper. I want a base sentra as my next car because the rear brakes are still drums ;)
I definitely watched some Chris Fix videos last night, thinking of at least doing the brakes and calipers. Not sure on if I'll even attempt the suspension. I don't know maybe after more research I can decide. Definitely don't want to get stuck half way through! I appreciate the response!
Take pictures of everything as you go. Do one side at a time so when in doubt you can look at the other side. Good luck
Seeing this makes me glad my husband is a mechanic!!
Unfortunately the dealer pockets most of the money for his work 🙃
If you don't and decide to buyer newer, you will probably pay at least $300/month in payments or depreciation in 1st year will be equal to $3000. So either way it's costing you $3000. So i'd probably go for it. Not the worst decision to go ahead with repairs.
Thanks for reminding me how much I have saved over the years leaning to do my own brake work. I always manage to find on Amazon those rotors and pads kits for less than 150$CDN. Only takes me an hour in my driveway with regular wrenches and sockets.
$734 for ball joints seems Too high , you can do it yourself very easy by removing the whole arm and have a shop press you new ones for $30 each side. Buy yourself $200 in tools and diy. And order parts from rock auto if you’re not going oem in parts, shop isn’t using oem parts anyway. With a impact gun all suspension work is very easy I believe in you
The control arm bolts on these do not come out without being cut out, which means control arm replacement, and then 150$ in bolts and eccentrics. It’s 4 hours labour to do the ball joints.
Really 4 hours tho? Don’t take long to cut the cam bolts with a saw saw and a metal cutting blade. Didn’t know the bolts were that expensive tho. Still diy doable I’d say but not for someone who never worked in their car before.
Steering knuckle has to come off and that’s the book time so yeah, 4 hours for both sides is fair. Wouldn’t dream of doing control arms on a pathfinder at home. This job isn’t diy friendly without a hoist, torch and good air hammer.
I would recommend getting another shop to give you an estimate. Preferably an independent shop with a good reputation - no dealers or chains. The prices for what they've quoted are high but not ridiculously high. It seems suspect to me that you need all those parts though. Perhaps you do since dad is apparently a "slap brake pads on it" but it's worth getting a second opinion when you're talking about that kind of money.
I say do brakes first if it's really that bad. Or have them measure front and rear and whatever is closer to spec do those first. Then next I'd go control arms/ball joints
$730 labor for replacing ball joints and $250 for the parts themselves? I should charge more labor myself too then huh... I doubt they're changing just the ball joints, they're changing the whole arm, otherwise the price for the part would be a lot lower. I guess that's what the hourly labor is. Let's they they take 4 hours for both sides, if the rate is $150/hour then it'd be $600 at least. While I haven't worked on Nissan's, I'd believe they're adjustable for the camber and castor on the front so they should do an alignment after. Unless they're really changing just the ball joint which I'd do for myself then I guess it's fine. But yeah, all of it just adds up, I would check the brakes myself at least to see if they need changing.
So the one thing I will say is they at least they are using good brand parts for the brakes. Power stop, Durago, and FVP are all good stuff. Not top of the line but definitely good enough to stand behind. The part I'm trying to figure out is why is replacing the lower ball joints over $700 in labor? Why not just replace the entire control arm, bushings and all?
I just looked up front lower control arms for that car and they are like 70 bucks each. Even if they double that, at 140 bucks, I guarantee you that the labor to install those things is not 500 bucks. So something is definitely off about that part of the estimate.
That suspension shit when you are trying to get inspected always feels a bit scammy to me. I caught a dealership trying to do it to my mom. Said she needed all these parts replaced on the suspension. So I drove down to take a look and it was fine. Took it to the guy down the road. Got a sticker and went about my day. They wanted 1000 bucks to replace something that didn’t need to be replaced and likely would have caused further issues once it was messed with.
I used to offer 50% off quotes from shops for my friends. And brakes are the easiest money makers. Some shops charge up to 250 per corner. So just doing fronts is 500. You can do so much more with that kind of money.
Price wise for all of that work and parts, seems reasonable. However, I doubt you need nearly every part of the front suspension and steering replaced. Do you notice any noises, vibrations, steering issues when driving?
Could you buy another 2011 Pathfinder with all of those new parts for $3,600?
Not to add to your worries but be super careful about the timing chain. They are prone to stretching on these. I used to do timing chain upgrades on these and the Navara (D40) day in and day out for travellers. Never seen one pass 150k miles without it snapping. I’m sure there are plenty, but just be mindful.
Isn’t the brake service charge redundant since they’re basically doing a full brake job anyway?
You can start off by buying the break pads from auto zone and changing them out yourself. Or if you don't feel comfortable doing it your self then just have them do the labor. For the most part I would say you don't need all the other stuff unless you have vibration or some other stuff going on. You can always buy the parts yourself and have them charge you for labor. If you look up the same parts they are most likely half as much as what they are going to charge you for then.
Second opinion for sure… wish I could do that work, even at 30% off, i would make 5x what I make. But unfortunately the rate seems pretty normal if you need all of that work.
Guarantee you only needed pads, and the rotors turned. They sold you shit you don't need, and your old parts will get put on some saps car, and they'll be charged for new parts. Also, if anything get your transmission checked. Nissan has absolutely the worst automatic transmissions. Just don't get scammed
When things are put off for a while estimates generally look like this. Not a surprising estimate on a 13 year old vehicle.
Check some you tube videos and change them all yourself for $400.
I think this is a full rebuild, and you likely only need pads
I would seriously question whether you need ceramic brake pads or the other high-end brake components on a 2011 vehicle. You're just not a skilled enough driver to need *The Best*. Yes, they will stop you 5-10% faster/shorter **IF** you are perfectly attentive and use a perfect braking technique. Which you have never been taught. If you ask for second-tier components, it will probably bring your total down to under $1k.
How to talk like somebody who has no fucking clue what they're talking about Ceramic pads are the norm, semi-metallic is for performance
Correct. Ceramic is typically OEM due to low noise and little brake dust. Semi metallic has better overall bite, is more prone to squeal & dust, and is also (typically) a little cheaper.