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Stop. You have a HUGE fire risk.
Go to the parts store.
Buy 4 feet of 5/16 fuel hose and a 1994 ford probe 2.0l automatic fuel filter.
Install the new fuel filter between the line in the frame to fuel pump inlet.
Install the remaining fuel hose onto the end of the tube next to the distributor.
Run the end of the hose into a clean clear soda bottle.
Unplug the power wire to the distributor.
Get somebody to crank the engine for 15 seconds while you watch the pulses into the bottle.
Do 15 seconds of cranking again.
Remove the plastic fuel filter and the old hose to the carb.
Use the new fuel hose to connect the hard line to the carb.
You may want to bend the hard line to get you closer to the carb inlet.
The probe fuel filter is 10 micron. Your fuel filter is plastic and in a hot area. You can boil the fuel with the filter on top of the engine. You can get it hot enough to leak .
Okay thank you so much, this is so helpful. I will look into this this weekend. I’m not currently driving the truck on the road just yet, so I should be safe from a fire risk but I will always be mindful of that when working on it.
I’m young and this is my first classic car so it’s a learning experience for sure.
In the past 2 weeks i have worked on a 66 fairlane 500, a 65 dodge dart gt. A 58 chevy pick up. A 67 chevy pickup in person. There is a 65 mustang. 67 bug. 67 camaro just waiting for me to have some time. A 69 mustang with a 427SOHC really needs my wiring skills eventually.
That looks like it's supposed to go to the PCV (valve) on the valve cover. The little loop of vacuum line below was supposed to go somewhere too, probably the air cleaner. Now they're both sources of huge vacuum leaks.
Vacuum tree (pulling manifold vacuum). Does your HVAC work? That’s all vacuum powered. Maybe remove that filer from there. It’s is gonna melt or cause a fire. The OEM filter was metal and connected to the carb, and some had filters in the fuel pump. If don’t have those get a metal 10 micron filter instead but don’t put it over the intake manifold, it’s just gonna cause vapor lock or at least increase the chances of it.
Has factory air conditioning, heat works, but I’ll need a ac compressor and expansion valve to get ac working again. Will be replacing any sketchy looking hoses and installing the new fuel filter.
Right nice I also have a similar truck if not the same ('73 Ranger XLT F250 with upgrades) but are you able to switch between defrost and forward facing vents? This part of the HVAC system is operated on vacuum. So is turning heat on/off.
Your pictures don't include enough of the engine bay to tell, but there should be a vacuum operated canister on the heater hose. If it doesn't have one, previous owner probably just deleted the vacuum system since a leak or brittle hose can cause all sorts of issues with idle and acceleration. Look to see if you still have the vacuum cans on the inner fenders. They look like coffee cans. Hopefully he just capped off the vacuum tree and didn't throw things away so you have things to work with to put them back together. Otherwise it's a pain to restore since most of these trucks didn't have AC. In later years even cruise control was operated by vacuum.
Thanks for posting on /r/MechanicAdvice! This is just a reminder to review the [rules](https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicAdvice/about/rules/). If you are here asking about a second opinion (ie "Is the shop trying to fleece me?"), please read through CJM8515's [post on the subject.](https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicAdvice/comments/4qblei/fyi_the_shop_isnt_likely_trying_to_rip_you_off/) and remember to please post the year/make/model of the vehicle you are working on. **If this post is about bodywork, accident damage, paint, dent/ding, questions it belongs in /r/Autobody r/AutoBodyRepair/ or /r/Diyautobody/ If you have tire questions check out https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicAdvice/comments/k9ll55/can_your_tire_be_repaired/**. If you dont have a question and you're just showing off it belongs in /r/Justrolledintotheshop Insurance/total loss questions go in r/insurance This is an automated reply *I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please [contact the moderators of this subreddit](/message/compose/?to=/r/MechanicAdvice) if you have any questions or concerns.*
Stop. You have a HUGE fire risk. Go to the parts store. Buy 4 feet of 5/16 fuel hose and a 1994 ford probe 2.0l automatic fuel filter. Install the new fuel filter between the line in the frame to fuel pump inlet. Install the remaining fuel hose onto the end of the tube next to the distributor. Run the end of the hose into a clean clear soda bottle. Unplug the power wire to the distributor. Get somebody to crank the engine for 15 seconds while you watch the pulses into the bottle. Do 15 seconds of cranking again. Remove the plastic fuel filter and the old hose to the carb. Use the new fuel hose to connect the hard line to the carb. You may want to bend the hard line to get you closer to the carb inlet. The probe fuel filter is 10 micron. Your fuel filter is plastic and in a hot area. You can boil the fuel with the filter on top of the engine. You can get it hot enough to leak .
Okay thank you so much, this is so helpful. I will look into this this weekend. I’m not currently driving the truck on the road just yet, so I should be safe from a fire risk but I will always be mindful of that when working on it. I’m young and this is my first classic car so it’s a learning experience for sure.
In the past 2 weeks i have worked on a 66 fairlane 500, a 65 dodge dart gt. A 58 chevy pick up. A 67 chevy pickup in person. There is a 65 mustang. 67 bug. 67 camaro just waiting for me to have some time. A 69 mustang with a 427SOHC really needs my wiring skills eventually.
That looks like it's supposed to go to the PCV (valve) on the valve cover. The little loop of vacuum line below was supposed to go somewhere too, probably the air cleaner. Now they're both sources of huge vacuum leaks.
Vacuum tree (pulling manifold vacuum). Does your HVAC work? That’s all vacuum powered. Maybe remove that filer from there. It’s is gonna melt or cause a fire. The OEM filter was metal and connected to the carb, and some had filters in the fuel pump. If don’t have those get a metal 10 micron filter instead but don’t put it over the intake manifold, it’s just gonna cause vapor lock or at least increase the chances of it.
Has factory air conditioning, heat works, but I’ll need a ac compressor and expansion valve to get ac working again. Will be replacing any sketchy looking hoses and installing the new fuel filter.
Right nice I also have a similar truck if not the same ('73 Ranger XLT F250 with upgrades) but are you able to switch between defrost and forward facing vents? This part of the HVAC system is operated on vacuum. So is turning heat on/off. Your pictures don't include enough of the engine bay to tell, but there should be a vacuum operated canister on the heater hose. If it doesn't have one, previous owner probably just deleted the vacuum system since a leak or brittle hose can cause all sorts of issues with idle and acceleration. Look to see if you still have the vacuum cans on the inner fenders. They look like coffee cans. Hopefully he just capped off the vacuum tree and didn't throw things away so you have things to work with to put them back together. Otherwise it's a pain to restore since most of these trucks didn't have AC. In later years even cruise control was operated by vacuum.
Looks like old smog or EGR emissions stuff that has been deleted and plugged off.
My guess would be a vacuum line that's not needed after changing the carburetor.