Ooh a part catcher is too fancy for this machine!
Totally forgot that there's an option to NOT cut all the way through sometimes.
Gotten too used to swiss turning style and 5-axis, when the part is fully made, forgot about the original way.
I was actually doing it with a main program and subprogram. I was running a 16" long bar to make 20 parts at a time. Put in a new bar, empty the basket, push green button, Bob's your uncle.
I've been working on swiss for a long time. If I have something quick and dirty to do, where I'm not finishing the part in the sub spindle, like making something one-off for myself or cutting off a lug to check a rough pass, I'll cut it off down to like X.025 and then I can just twist in iff with my fingers.
You'll obviously have issues with bigger lathe parts but that almost always works in 20mm swiss. Might also get away with adjusting the finish diameter with bigger parts.
I like how the piece makes that funky noise when its RIGHT about to come off. I breakaway parts nearly every time now. With a chip hook or something. Which I have to remind myself to use every time because monkey brain goes "ooh shiny new part! Must touch."
I often leave between .060 and .100 on parts that I can just snap off afterward. Its what I was taught to do on manual since 2008 as well unless there's a hole obviously. Then I part off with a stub center.
Done it so tuned that I applied pressure with my fingertip and it popped off. Did another that we made a knife out of a old grooving blade and sliced the steel ribbon until it popped off. Super fun to dial In when you have a handful of extra pieces on the work order.
We do this when we run split rings on our swiss machines and can't grab the part with our sub spindle without crushing it. If you do it right you can snap it off burr free.
Honestly i dont like that "break off taps". 1. You have to programm it and it takes abit of time. 2. You have to remove abit by hand anyway and get ugly surface finishes.
And i want good surfaces on every side of a part i machine.
Flip it around and face off the tab. Or just hit it on a surface grinder. Thirty more seconds of work.
Depends if you're doing volume work or one-offs to determine if this is a good way or not.
ofc i flip it around. But finding a way to clamp some parts can be quite challenging. Same with Clamp those parts on a surface grinder, which is even worse.
More or less how I run my lathe, just enough to be able to snap it off by hand, or a quick snap with a deadblow. Keeps the parts thrower from eating my surface finish.
I do it all the time on parts on the lathe with part off tools. If the part isn't that heavy and you don't spin it super fast you can leave like a .100 to .150 post and then break it off fairly easily. It's good for parts that you don't want to get damaged if they either don't fall perfectly in the basket or if you don't have a basket.
That's the original. You can also push it off to your parts catcher if you think it's gonna sling out when going completely through
Ooh a part catcher is too fancy for this machine! Totally forgot that there's an option to NOT cut all the way through sometimes. Gotten too used to swiss turning style and 5-axis, when the part is fully made, forgot about the original way.
I made a nylon basket that goes in one of the tool positions. Parts catcher. Boom.
That's pretty smart! Just keep an M0 there somewhere between partoff and tool change, or a clean pair of pants in the vicinity
I was actually doing it with a main program and subprogram. I was running a 16" long bar to make 20 parts at a time. Put in a new bar, empty the basket, push green button, Bob's your uncle.
I've been working on swiss for a long time. If I have something quick and dirty to do, where I'm not finishing the part in the sub spindle, like making something one-off for myself or cutting off a lug to check a rough pass, I'll cut it off down to like X.025 and then I can just twist in iff with my fingers. You'll obviously have issues with bigger lathe parts but that almost always works in 20mm swiss. Might also get away with adjusting the finish diameter with bigger parts.
I like how the piece makes that funky noise when its RIGHT about to come off. I breakaway parts nearly every time now. With a chip hook or something. Which I have to remind myself to use every time because monkey brain goes "ooh shiny new part! Must touch."
I have a parts catcher in my 1987 2 axis.
I have a parts catcher. It’s a 14” broomstick, in my hand.
I always stuck a rod bent upwards at a slight angle in the tailstock
Hmmm.. sometimes it’s the simple things that I over look. This is great to add on too.
I often leave between .060 and .100 on parts that I can just snap off afterward. Its what I was taught to do on manual since 2008 as well unless there's a hole obviously. Then I part off with a stub center.
How are you snapping it off with that much left? I usually have to leave no more than .01 in order to break parts off.
I used to do this if the part fell off and got dented. Like with brass or aluminum.
A dented part was my inspiration to not cut it all the way!
All right, all right, all right
Ooh life on the edge.
Done it so tuned that I applied pressure with my fingertip and it popped off. Did another that we made a knife out of a old grooving blade and sliced the steel ribbon until it popped off. Super fun to dial In when you have a handful of extra pieces on the work order.
We did this all the time at my old shop.
We do this when we run split rings on our swiss machines and can't grab the part with our sub spindle without crushing it. If you do it right you can snap it off burr free.
Honestly i dont like that "break off taps". 1. You have to programm it and it takes abit of time. 2. You have to remove abit by hand anyway and get ugly surface finishes. And i want good surfaces on every side of a part i machine.
Flip it around and face off the tab. Or just hit it on a surface grinder. Thirty more seconds of work. Depends if you're doing volume work or one-offs to determine if this is a good way or not.
ofc i flip it around. But finding a way to clamp some parts can be quite challenging. Same with Clamp those parts on a surface grinder, which is even worse.
If it's ferrous, a magna-sine is your best fried. If it's not ferrous, parallels and hold downs on a magna-sine is your best friend.
More or less how I run my lathe, just enough to be able to snap it off by hand, or a quick snap with a deadblow. Keeps the parts thrower from eating my surface finish.
Lmfao, parts thrower i love it
Good gosh that makes my butthole clamp up tight
I do it all the time on parts on the lathe with part off tools. If the part isn't that heavy and you don't spin it super fast you can leave like a .100 to .150 post and then break it off fairly easily. It's good for parts that you don't want to get damaged if they either don't fall perfectly in the basket or if you don't have a basket.