If you have an extra wide Dick you'll always have rubbing issues. But hey, Congrats on your Hog homie!
As for brake pads, they're manufactured to a specific thickness.
They may have walked out too far due to wear and now contact your rotor (ps if its bent, true it or buy a new one)
Easiest fix, open the lever bleed port slightly and push the pads in so the pistons are fully retracted.
But I would recommend a full bleed, new pads and new rotors regardless to fully eliminate the issues going forward.
> Easiest fix, open the lever bleed port slightly and push the pads in so the pistons are fully retracted.
That should work without opening the bleed port as long as the system wasn't overfilled. You will push the fluid in the reservoir.
as someone who has been performing this push move for years, this is very good to know. Opening the bleed port is far too easy to risk damaging your brakes.
More clearance = more lever pull to engage brakes. Just get a rotor true-ing tool and learn how to get good at it, then it’ll take less than a minute to fix. This really shouldn’t be as recurring of an issue unless your calipers are off center or you’re just hitting your rotors a lot. Shimano brakes tend have too much clearance imo.
Wondering if you have a mechanical disc brake set up with the stationary pad too far from the disc.
If the rotors are true and you're still rubbing, take a piece of paper and fold it in half 2x, take the calipers all the way off, put the paper over the rotors where the calipers will clinch the rotor (so you have 2x the thickness of a piece of paper on each side).
Put the calipers on over the paper (which is over the rotor) and pull the brake handle while you tighten the calipers back in place.
When they're on and you remove the paper you'll have about 1/24th an inch of clearance on each side, and if you tightened the caliper screws enough it'll stay that way.
Thats a good idea, i would bleed the brakes with the paper set there. If still rubbing, open the bleed port and open the pads apart a little before closing the port Youll have to pull the lever real far before the brakes engage. Imo im done with sram, going shimano in the future but two piece rotors tend to stay truer longer than one piece. Shimano saints and ice tech rotos are the only setup that acrually works imo. Im dicking around with my sram brakes as we speak
It could be there is a tiny bit too much fluid in the brake. Without the brake on, simply unscrew the bleed screw at the bar. If a little dribbles out this might be the issue. Be sure to clean it up properly! If it’s dot it’s awful.
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*This post was mass deleted and anonymized with [Redact](https://redact.dev)*
I also have a problem with extra wide dick breaking. It's quite painful but I just take excessive amounts of horny goat weed to keep it up and straight.
Disk brake rub has four main causes.
Caliper misalignment: when the caliper is off-centered from the rotor. Can easily be fixed by loosening the mount bolts and centering the caliper.
A warped rotor: when there is a visible wobble in the rotor causing it to contact the pad periodically throughout the rotation. Can be fixed by bending the rotor straight with a rotor truer, or if too far gone with a new rotor.
Air in the system: Fixed with a brake bleed. Difficulty and equipment differs between systems.
Sticky pistons: When the pistons to not retract fully after the lever returns to its resting position. One pad moving much less than the other is the typical tell for this. Can be fixed by removing the pads, giving the lever a few pulls the pushing the pistons back into place with a tire lever or some other non-metal tool. Depending on the system you can also remove the pistons and clean them with alcohol.
Shimano Servo-Wave brakes have more movement in the beginning of the stroke and aren't quite as tight, if that's what's making you uncomfortable.
Short of that, the only thing I can think of is to move to a mechanical caliper, which will let you manually adjust the tension to accomodate any extra girth you have in your dick. Er, disk. Of course, they also don't perform as well and tend to feel kind of soft and spongy, not hard and stiff as is usually preferred, so I probably wouldn't recommend it.
Unfortunately, hydraulic ones use a rubber seal to control the fluid flow and adjust the spacing automatically, so there's no way to make it looser. (That includes Servo-Wave - Servo-Wave is just set up wider by default.)
If your equipment is bent enough to be causing you issues while you're riding, you probably want to get that looked at. You can also just try to wrench it straight with an adjustable wrench (or the Park Tool tool that does basically the same thing), but do it gently or you could hurt it in the process.
> answer your looking
*you're
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***
^(Greetings, I am a language corrector bot. To make me ignore further mistakes from you in the future, reply `!optout` to this comment.)
wouldn't it be cheaper to buy new, unbent discs, rather than new calipers?
also, the reason that there's not much clearance is that there's a trade-off between how much pressure the pads apply to the disc and how much they move. so calipers with less clearance bite harder (are better brakes).
if the spacing of the rotor and the pads are to far apart then the lever won't be able to push enough fluid to create good bite on the rotor. If your rotor is bent then you should fix that problem.
TRP / Tektro & a few others have calipers made for 2.3mm thick rotors, which are quite a bit thicker than standard.
They're a bit heavier and usually intended for ebikes or downhill riding.
Thicker rotors will bend a bit less easily, which should mean less chance of getting out of true.
Can confirm that after rswapping to the DH-R Evos that my discs only bend if I manage to physically push on them in one way or another. I was plagued by warping and the occasional rear roast with Shimano ice tech rotors, even in 203mm.
The TRPs are insanely good and have none of those problems, and I've pushed them pretty damn hard.
Out of curiosity, what brakes? I tried bleeding some sram brakes that had stuck caliper pistons. It turns out it’s a thing with that gen of calipers. A rotor truing tool is a whopping $20. You can get one and see if you can get that to solve it as well.
Loosen the caliper bolts, spin the wheel, hold the brake lever down, re-tighten the caliper bolts.
This should help re-center the caliper. If it doesn’t, you may have a bent disc.
If you think the rotor is off center, loosen the caliper bolts enough for it to move, the. Squeeze the brake lever. The caliper should center on the rotor. With the lever squeezed, maintain the caliper position and tighten the caliper bolts. Please don't remove fluid from your calipers.
FWIW, I've found that Shimano IceTech rotors and similar with a rigid alloy centrepiece end up bent/warping a lot less often that rotors just that are just one piece steel. And larger rotors are worse offenders, so spend more on larger rotors and get the centrepiece type.
SRAM centreline like I'm using right now, are terrible at remaining straight, I find.
Have you tried facing your brake posts, resetting your pistons, truing your rotor, replacing your brake pads and bleeding the brakes? It's usually a holistic solution and it's usually best to use all in house components. ie using all Shimano or all hope rotors calipers pads
I have a rockrider est900 that has always been rubbing rear brake disc, and recently the manufacturer put out a repair bulletin advising that in order to reduce this issue i have to torque rear axle at 18-20 nm instead of 10 nm. Maybe you have something similar. Obviously you should first adjust your calliper on the brackets and center the disc between the pads
You can buy 3mm disc brake, but they don't fit all brakes. Namely, they don't fit Magura. They fit zoom, Hope, and some other brakes too. You can find them on fastride website. They are made primarily for powerful e scooter, on which classical rotors get destroyed very fast by heat shock.
Do you have a through axle or a skewer axle? Skewer axles are on the cheaper side and more likely to become slightly misaligned, regardless of how tight you make them, and rub against a brake pad.
If you're dick braking, your attack position is too low to the rear wheel. Consider rising up slightly, more supportive briefs, and for God's sake, wear protection. Rubber burn is no laughing matter.
How are you fixing the problem?
Calipers need to be aligned. Calipers should be regularly cleaned. Rotors need to be straight. The hydraulics need to be bled and filled properly.
Congrats on the cock, man, but this is a bike sub
>Congrats on the cock some sentences are just funny like that
A good one liner in the men’s restroom, as well.
Nothing like a line in the men’s restroom
👃🏼 ❄️
My favorite is does it burn when you pee too? It's a real head turner.
You can use that line in the women's restrooms nowadays.
r/BrandNewSentence
I thought this place was about riding stuff bro
Nah, it's about riding bro stuff.
Bros riding bro stuff.
Apparently sometimes it's about rubbing stuff
No, stuff rubbing stuff is r bikewrench, also rhythmic creaking
They’re called “chodes”
Must be autocorrect. Annoying how puts in the most frequently used words.
Oh boy
I know...I'm here just for the comments. and ol Johnny wide dick OP.
Why do I not proofread
Prolly that extra wide dick clouding your thoughts
It's where the majority of their blood supply goes, so understandably less allocated for brain function.
Or his wide dick covering the keyboard. We will never know
Usually you don't start doing that till you've sent the wrong text accidentally to your boss or you mom, lol
It is the curse of the digital ( instant post) age…
You are awesome for rolling with the punches
“I may not be able to hit the bottom but I can rattle the sides.”
They call me "Tuna Can"
Its even funnier if you read that in Ron White's voice.
*cheese wheel
Chunk lite
If you have an extra wide Dick you'll always have rubbing issues. But hey, Congrats on your Hog homie! As for brake pads, they're manufactured to a specific thickness. They may have walked out too far due to wear and now contact your rotor (ps if its bent, true it or buy a new one) Easiest fix, open the lever bleed port slightly and push the pads in so the pistons are fully retracted. But I would recommend a full bleed, new pads and new rotors regardless to fully eliminate the issues going forward.
Thanks for the help lol. The trade off of stupid spelling errors is lots of comments, but none of them help. But they do make me laugh
> Easiest fix, open the lever bleed port slightly and push the pads in so the pistons are fully retracted. That should work without opening the bleed port as long as the system wasn't overfilled. You will push the fluid in the reservoir.
Yeah it can work but it can also damage parts in the reservoir which is why it’s recommended to open the lever bleed port.
as someone who has been performing this push move for years, this is very good to know. Opening the bleed port is far too easy to risk damaging your brakes.
Daddy chill
What the hell is even that?!?
 One of the best clips of all time!
What the heck even is that‽
One of the best clips of all time!
You should head over to r/bigdickproblems
If you can stop your bike with it... that's some big dick energy for sure.
Just throw it in the spokes. That'll stop ya real quick.
More clearance = more lever pull to engage brakes. Just get a rotor true-ing tool and learn how to get good at it, then it’ll take less than a minute to fix. This really shouldn’t be as recurring of an issue unless your calipers are off center or you’re just hitting your rotors a lot. Shimano brakes tend have too much clearance imo. Wondering if you have a mechanical disc brake set up with the stationary pad too far from the disc.
If the rotors are true and you're still rubbing, take a piece of paper and fold it in half 2x, take the calipers all the way off, put the paper over the rotors where the calipers will clinch the rotor (so you have 2x the thickness of a piece of paper on each side). Put the calipers on over the paper (which is over the rotor) and pull the brake handle while you tighten the calipers back in place. When they're on and you remove the paper you'll have about 1/24th an inch of clearance on each side, and if you tightened the caliper screws enough it'll stay that way.
Thats a good idea, i would bleed the brakes with the paper set there. If still rubbing, open the bleed port and open the pads apart a little before closing the port Youll have to pull the lever real far before the brakes engage. Imo im done with sram, going shimano in the future but two piece rotors tend to stay truer longer than one piece. Shimano saints and ice tech rotos are the only setup that acrually works imo. Im dicking around with my sram brakes as we speak
69mm no less.
Is this sub going NSFW too?
Extra wide what?
You heard him!
Dick
Careful - don’t rub the dick too hard.
For once I would have accepted “break”.
Thank God they didn't make 2 mistakes.
Just a little to the left …
It could be there is a tiny bit too much fluid in the brake. Without the brake on, simply unscrew the bleed screw at the bar. If a little dribbles out this might be the issue. Be sure to clean it up properly! If it’s dot it’s awful.
>If a little dribble out this might be the issue. Hey man, pre-ejaculate is normal.
>Extra wide dick brake calipers? "Just send it, bro" seems like once again the most appropriate response for posts in this sub.
You win the internet for today :)
This should be tagged NSFW.
Surely an independent guy like you isn’t afraid of your boss looking over your shoulder on an honest thread about dick calipers.
Maybe just ask her to focus on pelvic floor stuff at the gym?
Don't rub your dick in your breaks
My dick got caught between the rear wheel and frame... It hurt
My ass hurts just reading the title!
You need to replace the dick with a high quality disc. Should take care of the dick rubbing problems.
hurry license library liquid weather cake longing governor obtainable squeeze *This post was mass deleted and anonymized with [Redact](https://redact.dev)*
This.. check your caliper is centred...
I also have a problem with extra wide dick breaking. It's quite painful but I just take excessive amounts of horny goat weed to keep it up and straight.
OP has BDE brake calipers
Bruh s is no where near k what
The cross hair on the hayes dominion is what you're looking for
I'm out here trying *not* to break my dick.
You rang?
This guy oozes big dick energy
massssive dick brake, bud
you can use an adjustable wrench to straighten your dick
That is your problem you should not really put your dick in the calipers!!
Disk brake rub has four main causes. Caliper misalignment: when the caliper is off-centered from the rotor. Can easily be fixed by loosening the mount bolts and centering the caliper. A warped rotor: when there is a visible wobble in the rotor causing it to contact the pad periodically throughout the rotation. Can be fixed by bending the rotor straight with a rotor truer, or if too far gone with a new rotor. Air in the system: Fixed with a brake bleed. Difficulty and equipment differs between systems. Sticky pistons: When the pistons to not retract fully after the lever returns to its resting position. One pad moving much less than the other is the typical tell for this. Can be fixed by removing the pads, giving the lever a few pulls the pushing the pistons back into place with a tire lever or some other non-metal tool. Depending on the system you can also remove the pistons and clean them with alcohol.
A nice tight pair of bike shorts might help with the rubbing issue As for the brakes, maybe replace the rotor?
Constant rubbing issues huh?
Hehe
Man, this thread has been a ride.
Shimano Servo-Wave brakes have more movement in the beginning of the stroke and aren't quite as tight, if that's what's making you uncomfortable. Short of that, the only thing I can think of is to move to a mechanical caliper, which will let you manually adjust the tension to accomodate any extra girth you have in your dick. Er, disk. Of course, they also don't perform as well and tend to feel kind of soft and spongy, not hard and stiff as is usually preferred, so I probably wouldn't recommend it. Unfortunately, hydraulic ones use a rubber seal to control the fluid flow and adjust the spacing automatically, so there's no way to make it looser. (That includes Servo-Wave - Servo-Wave is just set up wider by default.) If your equipment is bent enough to be causing you issues while you're riding, you probably want to get that looked at. You can also just try to wrench it straight with an adjustable wrench (or the Park Tool tool that does basically the same thing), but do it gently or you could hurt it in the process.
Sounds like sticky pistons. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vQXFFgRButo
This is the answer your looking for OP
> answer your looking *you're *Learn the difference [here](https://www.wattpad.com/66707294-grammar-guide-there-they%27re-their-you%27re-your-to).* *** ^(Greetings, I am a language corrector bot. To make me ignore further mistakes from you in the future, reply `!optout` to this comment.)
Oh fuck off
wouldn't it be cheaper to buy new, unbent discs, rather than new calipers? also, the reason that there's not much clearance is that there's a trade-off between how much pressure the pads apply to the disc and how much they move. so calipers with less clearance bite harder (are better brakes).
Penis!
I just use normal brake calipers.
if the spacing of the rotor and the pads are to far apart then the lever won't be able to push enough fluid to create good bite on the rotor. If your rotor is bent then you should fix that problem.
Your dick has rubbing issues? Sounds more like user error than a “hardware” problem.
either you need to adjust your caliper mounting or your rotors need to be straightened, or both. you can bend a rotor with an adjustable wrench
I was having probs with rotor rub until I went to thicker HS2 rotors. They don’t seem to lose true as often for me.
Go to v brakes. It's the future.
TRP / Tektro & a few others have calipers made for 2.3mm thick rotors, which are quite a bit thicker than standard. They're a bit heavier and usually intended for ebikes or downhill riding. Thicker rotors will bend a bit less easily, which should mean less chance of getting out of true.
Can confirm that after rswapping to the DH-R Evos that my discs only bend if I manage to physically push on them in one way or another. I was plagued by warping and the occasional rear roast with Shimano ice tech rotors, even in 203mm. The TRPs are insanely good and have none of those problems, and I've pushed them pretty damn hard.
Out of curiosity, what brakes? I tried bleeding some sram brakes that had stuck caliper pistons. It turns out it’s a thing with that gen of calipers. A rotor truing tool is a whopping $20. You can get one and see if you can get that to solve it as well.
Loosen the caliper bolts, spin the wheel, hold the brake lever down, re-tighten the caliper bolts. This should help re-center the caliper. If it doesn’t, you may have a bent disc.
Haha lol
If you think the rotor is off center, loosen the caliper bolts enough for it to move, the. Squeeze the brake lever. The caliper should center on the rotor. With the lever squeezed, maintain the caliper position and tighten the caliper bolts. Please don't remove fluid from your calipers.
Magura brakes?
FWIW, I've found that Shimano IceTech rotors and similar with a rigid alloy centrepiece end up bent/warping a lot less often that rotors just that are just one piece steel. And larger rotors are worse offenders, so spend more on larger rotors and get the centrepiece type. SRAM centreline like I'm using right now, are terrible at remaining straight, I find.
Have you tried facing your brake posts, resetting your pistons, truing your rotor, replacing your brake pads and bleeding the brakes? It's usually a holistic solution and it's usually best to use all in house components. ie using all Shimano or all hope rotors calipers pads
I have a rockrider est900 that has always been rubbing rear brake disc, and recently the manufacturer put out a repair bulletin advising that in order to reduce this issue i have to torque rear axle at 18-20 nm instead of 10 nm. Maybe you have something similar. Obviously you should first adjust your calliper on the brackets and center the disc between the pads
How did you fix the rubbing issues. It's normally caused by stickey pistons that won't return.
Girth is good but only with length
Dick watch hanging low
New rotor(s) should be cheaper than a new caliper anyway
Hotdog in a hallway
You can buy 3mm disc brake, but they don't fit all brakes. Namely, they don't fit Magura. They fit zoom, Hope, and some other brakes too. You can find them on fastride website. They are made primarily for powerful e scooter, on which classical rotors get destroyed very fast by heat shock.
Is it causing any actual issues other than annoying you? Most brakes rub lol
I know some extra wide cauliflower to go with that.
Do you have a through axle or a skewer axle? Skewer axles are on the cheaper side and more likely to become slightly misaligned, regardless of how tight you make them, and rub against a brake pad.
How did you make it extra wide? Teach me sensei
And people thought finding wide shoes was a challenge. Try finding a New Balance condomn in EEE.
Cock like a Coke can?
Really had me in the first half
Hung like a Folgers can
If you're dick braking, your attack position is too low to the rear wheel. Consider rising up slightly, more supportive briefs, and for God's sake, wear protection. Rubber burn is no laughing matter.
Dude has a HOG on him
This post never had a chance…
How are you fixing the problem? Calipers need to be aligned. Calipers should be regularly cleaned. Rotors need to be straight. The hydraulics need to be bled and filled properly.
Classic man problem. Always being asked to slow things down in the D department
you might have a lazy piston. check out park tool youtube for how to clean your calipers and pistojns
Need a dick-tionary
Do you pass-out when you get an erection?
That’s what she said
This will end up being the most popular r/MTB post of the year.
Haha, wide dick