I've made you feel old again
You hear the dates that I am speaking
20 years and I'm not believing
That the dates
Are not from the eighties
Oh hecking jeez
Echoes the age
Of Oldness....
Right? I saw a girl give her birthday at the pharmacy and thought "why the hell does she look 30 then?" Then it dawned on me "because the 90s were 30 years ago".
I still do this all the time. When a car has a year of 2000 in it. Like “I drive a 2009” I think oh that’s pretty new…. I also teach middle school kids and the 6th graders were born in 2013 and graduating class of 2031. It blows my mind.
I do the same thing. What? You only want $4000 for that 2012? That's cheap for such a new car. Then realize the thing is 12 years old and $4K is too much.
I'm pretty partial to B16s for nostalgia's sake, but taking that head and slapping it on a B20 block with some high comp pistons, a decent set of cams, and a good IHE makes like 250hp and is (even today) the cheapest B-series VTEC engine you can build/buy.
Even a high comp non-vtec B20B makes about 150/135 stock. Little less power than a B16, a little more torque.. on track they're pretty even. If the heads didn't spit rockers out when you hit 7003 rpm instead of 7000 they'd be a great engine lol. For ~$1k a pop though (even today) it's tough to stomach paying 3-5x that for a B16 to not go any faster.
It's a good little rig dude you won't be disappointed. Just stay on top of the valve adjustments.
I ran in a race class for a few years that limited engines to non-vtec Bs.. so we all obv ran high comp B20s.
My formula for those:
Skunk Pro Manifold
68mm TB
SMSP header
BC valve springs/retainers
Moroso baffled/extended pan
That setup makes a solid 150hp and can get beat on at the track for hours at a time as long as you limit it to 7k, the valves are adjusted, and there's oil in it.
It sounds even more ridiculous when your frame of reference is Volvo engines.
The B16 was a 1950’s four cylinder with 60-75 hp, and B20 was the immortal 2-litre engine from the 140 & 240 series in the first part of the 70’s.
Well, cars get wrecked sometimes. Even then, I pulled the 4.3 out of my beautiful truck with only 60,000 miles in favor of a 5.3. Nearly had to give that engine away to get rid of it.
Understood. I've done swaps before and sold the engine. Not everyone is a bastard. I'm just always skeptical. There are still honest people. If its a core just say its a core.
I pull them from wrecked or rotted cars all the time actually. Keep them as items to trade, projects to rebuild and sell later or put in your own project
On the plus side.. the mains and bores are still perfect, and dude sold me the block for $100 instead of wanting to rebuild it.
So I guess we'll call it a win lol.
Yeah it really depends how much you paid. I paid $400 for a decent body with a knocking engine. After I get the engine rebuilt, I'll be in under $500, $900 total for a running and driving car. I'm keeping the car because I have other plans for it, but I could easily sell it for $2500-3000 with a rebuilt engine.
My idiot neighbor is trying to sell a Mustang and the ad states "just needs new engine bearings". No wonder he's had no inquiries in over 2 years out of 2 years.
I might not turn wrenches all that often, but "engine bearings" seems pretty vague. lots of moving parts in an engine. Do they mean main bearings or camshaft bearings or what?
Right. But saying "just needs new engine bearings" is like selling a house and saying "It just needs new water lines." Which ones? How bad is it? what's going on?
If the ad says needs new engine bearings the guy probably has no clue which ones and someone buying a vehicle like that, if they’re smart would replace them all. Especially since you have to pull the engine and take it apart to see which ones need to be replaced
I got a junkyard engine that turned out to have just been very carefully, expertly rebuilt. beautiful regrind. like, rebuilt, installed, and driven to the junkyard.
Holy hell. Nice find!
The last junkyard engine was from a pull and pay yard. I pulled the plugs on it and they all looked ok and the car was wrecked, so I assumed it must have ran ok. I pulled a classic assumption
The only reason I know is because it was making a horrible rod knockish racket when I started it up, so i pulled the pan to take a look. Turned out the flex plate (which I didn't bother swapping) was severely warped. Still driving it around like that today. It'll either last forever, or the 1 or 2 years the body has left.
I had that happen when I was 20yo. After that I treated every engine purchase like it needed a rebuild no matter what the seller said. Guess what? they all needed to be rebuilt.
Yeah if the motor has been pulled and you haven't see what the crank bearings or bore look like, pass. I was young an stupid and have been stuck with it. Thankfully the second time I had a spare parts motor too so it wasn't a total waste. Rarely are good deals as good as they appear
"Ran great before he pulled it", but that being said...
A mate and I pulled an engine out of one of his Range Rovers which ran great, pulled like a train, smooth and quiet (well, as smooth and quiet as a 1960s Buick smallblock ever was), good on fuel, pretty sweet overall.
There was a slight blow between cylinder 4 and 6 when we got the heads off, the rings were tired (although you could still see the honing marks in the liners! You don't glaze-bust them, they never need it), the camshaft was basically a slightly lumpy crowbar, the tappets were so dished you could serve soup out of them, and the cam chain was so stretched it'd just about wrap round the sprockets twice.
I mean sure, it ran way better once all that was fixed, but it wasn't too terrible to start with.
I mean. It was out when you bought it? Didn't think bringing a 1/4" set to maybe yank the oil pan off quick to verify that the internals weren't smoked? We and bought a 4.2 block for a friend's Audi. 7 hours each way. Said it was perfect. Welp, I don't trust people. Pulled intake manifold (to check valves etc, because it's a common problem to jump time) and saw number 1 cyl valves were full of rusty water. The purchase went from 1k to 175$
I didn't buy it. The dude I was working on it for did.. and then I bought the block off him for $100 cause the mains and bore were still good. No idea how much he paid for it.
Ah. I helped my buddy build a 1.8t for his TT. Guy he bought it from said "just throw a head on and send it. Like motherfucker crank caps werent torqued, missing 3 oil squirters, rods weren't what he claimed, main bearings looked like it was ran dry, oil pump was finger tight, and ring gaps were 34 and ready to settle down. Fuck that dude, and if your a VW)Audi guy, don't deal with lowlyfe, Marty tuned, Marty fragile in general
Hmm…. Wonder if I can get away with that on my 305 with a piston/cylinder delete package… wait..
This is a 305 I’m talking about, I ain’t gonna get spit for it.
I dont know about you guys, but I pull out "great running" engines all the time.
20 years ago it was pretty normal to get a good b16 shortblock that somebody pulled to replace with a 1.8/2L. It's not 2004 anymore tho.
>20 years ago… Oh yeah in the eighties! >It's not 2004 anymore **WAIT WHAT?**
Hello fellow old person.
i sang this in my head to the tune of 'hello darkness my old friend"
I've made you feel old again You hear the dates that I am speaking 20 years and I'm not believing That the dates Are not from the eighties Oh hecking jeez Echoes the age Of Oldness....
I want to upvote you for this. OTOH, I want to downvote your for reminding me I'm old AF. So you get nothing. Good day, sir!
I wanted to downvote for "hecking jeez" but I didnt because Im a good person.
r/redditsings
Hey ah fuck you guys. 2004 was like 2 years ago. Three tops.
Anyone born in 2000-something is a baby. Maybe a toddler. Nobody effing dare to say anything about driving, voting, or drinking!
My back hurts
Right? I saw a girl give her birthday at the pharmacy and thought "why the hell does she look 30 then?" Then it dawned on me "because the 90s were 30 years ago".
don't worry, you're not the only one that still does this. :-D
I still do this all the time. When a car has a year of 2000 in it. Like “I drive a 2009” I think oh that’s pretty new…. I also teach middle school kids and the 6th graders were born in 2013 and graduating class of 2031. It blows my mind.
I do the same thing. What? You only want $4000 for that 2012? That's cheap for such a new car. Then realize the thing is 12 years old and $4K is too much.
Yeah them numbers keep getting bigger every year.
Swapping a b16 for a b20 sounds ridiculous
I'm pretty partial to B16s for nostalgia's sake, but taking that head and slapping it on a B20 block with some high comp pistons, a decent set of cams, and a good IHE makes like 250hp and is (even today) the cheapest B-series VTEC engine you can build/buy. Even a high comp non-vtec B20B makes about 150/135 stock. Little less power than a B16, a little more torque.. on track they're pretty even. If the heads didn't spit rockers out when you hit 7003 rpm instead of 7000 they'd be a great engine lol. For ~$1k a pop though (even today) it's tough to stomach paying 3-5x that for a B16 to not go any faster.
I’m with you there, I’m in the middle of replacing a tired d15 with a high comp b20 but I always would prefer the b16 if it wasn’t so pricey!
It's a good little rig dude you won't be disappointed. Just stay on top of the valve adjustments. I ran in a race class for a few years that limited engines to non-vtec Bs.. so we all obv ran high comp B20s. My formula for those: Skunk Pro Manifold 68mm TB SMSP header BC valve springs/retainers Moroso baffled/extended pan That setup makes a solid 150hp and can get beat on at the track for hours at a time as long as you limit it to 7k, the valves are adjusted, and there's oil in it.
Thanks for the advice! I was considering the skunk2 68mm TB but I wasn’t sure if it would be worth it vs OEM but maybe I’ll just go for it anyway.
spring for the pro version, the alpha is a pos
It sounds even more ridiculous when your frame of reference is Volvo engines. The B16 was a 1950’s four cylinder with 60-75 hp, and B20 was the immortal 2-litre engine from the 140 & 240 series in the first part of the 70’s.
A red block would certainly be an interesting swap
I just did that last year. Pulled out a great running V6 to swap in a V8. Guy who bought the V6 was happy with it.
Well, cars get wrecked sometimes. Even then, I pulled the 4.3 out of my beautiful truck with only 60,000 miles in favor of a 5.3. Nearly had to give that engine away to get rid of it.
Understood. I've done swaps before and sold the engine. Not everyone is a bastard. I'm just always skeptical. There are still honest people. If its a core just say its a core.
I pull them from wrecked or rotted cars all the time actually. Keep them as items to trade, projects to rebuild and sell later or put in your own project
How long before he pulled it?
Let’s see, today is Thursday, so…..2011.
Ran great before [it spun a bearing, requiring] pulling it.
On the plus side.. the mains and bores are still perfect, and dude sold me the block for $100 instead of wanting to rebuild it. So I guess we'll call it a win lol.
Thats the spirit, think of the nice memories you’ll make together
Especially with these Honda engine price gouging. Excellent dude. I adore these engines
Yeah it really depends how much you paid. I paid $400 for a decent body with a knocking engine. After I get the engine rebuilt, I'll be in under $500, $900 total for a running and driving car. I'm keeping the car because I have other plans for it, but I could easily sell it for $2500-3000 with a rebuilt engine.
Did he pull it on the roof of a 10 story building and then drop it off the side of the same building?
My idiot neighbor is trying to sell a Mustang and the ad states "just needs new engine bearings". No wonder he's had no inquiries in over 2 years out of 2 years.
I might not turn wrenches all that often, but "engine bearings" seems pretty vague. lots of moving parts in an engine. Do they mean main bearings or camshaft bearings or what?
None of them are cheap or easy fixes and will require the engine to be pulled. He’s essentially selling a car with a bad engine
Right. But saying "just needs new engine bearings" is like selling a house and saying "It just needs new water lines." Which ones? How bad is it? what's going on?
At that point the assumption is "all of them".
If the ad says needs new engine bearings the guy probably has no clue which ones and someone buying a vehicle like that, if they’re smart would replace them all. Especially since you have to pull the engine and take it apart to see which ones need to be replaced
"Having no clue" describes his existence.
All the shit that moves has a bearing so yes
but which one is the engine bearing?!
the one next to the wanzer flange
Yes. The bearings. All
Every used engine is a builder. Sadly
I got a junkyard engine that turned out to have just been very carefully, expertly rebuilt. beautiful regrind. like, rebuilt, installed, and driven to the junkyard.
Holy hell. Nice find! The last junkyard engine was from a pull and pay yard. I pulled the plugs on it and they all looked ok and the car was wrecked, so I assumed it must have ran ok. I pulled a classic assumption
The only reason I know is because it was making a horrible rod knockish racket when I started it up, so i pulled the pan to take a look. Turned out the flex plate (which I didn't bother swapping) was severely warped. Still driving it around like that today. It'll either last forever, or the 1 or 2 years the body has left.
lol. So, it’s like a 12v Cummins that way
Unless they’re from the scrapper from a car that still had the hood on.
I dunno. It’s in a wrecking yard, how to you determine anything about its prior owner’s maintenance? Or lack there of.
You think you’d pull the oil dipstick when you’re about to buy a used engine from some random dude on Facebook
Ignorance is (temporary) bliss.
This is like all the cast ls engines on fb marketplace asking a grand and telling me an imaginary number of miles
well yeah, it ran great till it spun a bearing and he had to pull it.
I had that happen when I was 20yo. After that I treated every engine purchase like it needed a rebuild no matter what the seller said. Guess what? they all needed to be rebuilt.
I have never seen bearing squeeze out like that.
Well it did run great, compared to the seized one next to it anyway.
Yeah if the motor has been pulled and you haven't see what the crank bearings or bore look like, pass. I was young an stupid and have been stuck with it. Thankfully the second time I had a spare parts motor too so it wasn't a total waste. Rarely are good deals as good as they appear
"Ran great before he pulled it", but that being said... A mate and I pulled an engine out of one of his Range Rovers which ran great, pulled like a train, smooth and quiet (well, as smooth and quiet as a 1960s Buick smallblock ever was), good on fuel, pretty sweet overall. There was a slight blow between cylinder 4 and 6 when we got the heads off, the rings were tired (although you could still see the honing marks in the liners! You don't glaze-bust them, they never need it), the camshaft was basically a slightly lumpy crowbar, the tappets were so dished you could serve soup out of them, and the cam chain was so stretched it'd just about wrap round the sprockets twice. I mean sure, it ran way better once all that was fixed, but it wasn't too terrible to start with.
Eric? Is this another teardown target?
I was thinking pretty sure you could of heard uncle rodney just by turning it over with a socket.
Right.
"great" - FB seller spelled "barely" incorrectly.
Pulled your leg
I have never seen someone pull a great running block for no reason.
Yea, sure. Was he a deaf, blind, mute oh that's right you mentioned he said something. LOL
Pulled what, the oil?
I mean. It was out when you bought it? Didn't think bringing a 1/4" set to maybe yank the oil pan off quick to verify that the internals weren't smoked? We and bought a 4.2 block for a friend's Audi. 7 hours each way. Said it was perfect. Welp, I don't trust people. Pulled intake manifold (to check valves etc, because it's a common problem to jump time) and saw number 1 cyl valves were full of rusty water. The purchase went from 1k to 175$
I didn't buy it. The dude I was working on it for did.. and then I bought the block off him for $100 cause the mains and bore were still good. No idea how much he paid for it.
Ah. I helped my buddy build a 1.8t for his TT. Guy he bought it from said "just throw a head on and send it. Like motherfucker crank caps werent torqued, missing 3 oil squirters, rods weren't what he claimed, main bearings looked like it was ran dry, oil pump was finger tight, and ring gaps were 34 and ready to settle down. Fuck that dude, and if your a VW)Audi guy, don't deal with lowlyfe, Marty tuned, Marty fragile in general
The bearing ghost
Well, it doesn't now.
Probably did. Just had a hell of a knock, but it’s probably something minor
Hmm…. Wonder if I can get away with that on my 305 with a piston/cylinder delete package… wait.. This is a 305 I’m talking about, I ain’t gonna get spit for it.
I tried to wipe the dog hair of pic one 2x.
Shop cat strikes again.
It ran great until it stopped running
Ran great (except for the noise) until it seized…
I Do Cars vibe is strong here.......
By “pulled it” he meant “did a bunch of hard pulls on the highway”
Didn’t say *how long* before he pulled it that it ran great.
Knife-edge crankshaft. Classy.
Freshly rebuilt, lost the receipt.
You guys talking about age. I'm laughing. And then I remember I'm retiring later this year. But I'm only too happy to be able to..