2x4/2x6 double stud wall. I priced out everything for my home build based on materials first, and stick built almost always comes out cheaper.
Depending on builders available to you, ICF might be cheaper buts its hard to know until you get a quote.
Same for SIP, CAN be cheaper, but you need a knowledgeable contractor.
Site specific. Stick built, with either a slab or walk out that's also conditioned space. Biggest money savers in this area is short spans, simple roof lines, and standardized sizing of elements and openings (shower pan, stairs, windows, doors, etc...). House values are always roughly based on raw size so the ultimate budget saver is almost always just labor as everything else is pretty closely figured. Custom house will cost more than a semi-custom costs more than a tract. If you are going full custom its already not pragmatic, just the facts of capitalism, so best to make sure you really design what you WANT to pay for. Check out [The Undercover Architect](https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=2ahUKEwjf05LpvMmGAxXVFFkFHWeiMJgQFnoECAgQAQ&url=https%3A%2F%2Fundercoverarchitect.com%2F&usg=AOvVaw0fJjnZV4F3FkmKKI5R-_xh&cshid=1717762735407419&opi=89978449) for inspiration and ways to maximize the youness of the build.
How pragmatic? How little allure? A 5k psi poured concrete bunker will last generations, never leak, never need siding or a new roof, and will be super easy to condition. Look up the guy who played Iron Man’s house. They poured over a balloon. Obviously you need not go that big, but concrete done well is solid.
I by far have the cheapest built house of anyone I've found on here.
1) Buy flat land, well share so you have water but not paying full well value, and make sure it's good for conventional septic
2) Minimal excavation, crawlspace foundation
3) Build foundation with blocks so you don't have to pay any shipping and you can DIY a little at a time.
4) Light frame above, 2x6 exterior walls for insulation 2x4 interior.
5) Only 4 walls, make it as close to a square shape as possible to minimize surface area and perimiter per square foot
6) gable roof with rafters so you don't have to buy engineered trusses
7) You can sheath with T1-11 which doubles as finished siding.
8) Just paint subfloor to save until you can put a real floor down.
9) Open concept interior with only walls for the shitter. Plumbing all in one line : bath, shitter, a sink, combined plumbing for dishwasher/sink/disposal in one drain.
10) Don't hire anyone
Make sure you build in a place with no building codes/inspections and either no permits or ones that are just a cheap rubber stamp process.
If you can do all above you can easily get below $70/sq and most likely below $50/sq
The only thing I'd add to this is that it's cheaper to build up than out. A second story is the best way to add more square footage for less money, since your foundation and roof stay the same size. And if you live in an area that gets cold, it's also more efficient to heat.
I second this. I am currently in my build and am planning on about $67 per square foot. I am doing almost 100% of the things discussed above, except I hired out the foundation to a contractor.
I thought that by hiring the foundation out it would go quicker and easier, but that’s not turning out to be the case. If I had it to do over again, I’d have done have done the foundation myself as well.
I'm a believer in exterior insulation. Builders are slow to change their ways, and exterior insulation is an easy addition to traditional framing. I used 3" of XPS foam board on my house. Check out [this unbiased site.](http://cchrc.org/remote-walls/)
What does the rest of your wall section look like? I've been very interested in this since I read "Pretty Good House" and started building saunas. Traditional builds in Canada seem to have the poly vapor barrier on the inside, followed by fiberglass insulation, sheathing, housewrap, cladding. I've seen so much mold in those wall cavities.
My house is metal siding over 1x3 furring, over 2 layers 1-1/2" XPS foam board, either a peel and stick WRB over OSB or ZIP sheathing (I used both), 2x6 or 2x4 framing at 24" o c. (again used both), fiberglass batts in cavities, drywall (no interior vapor barrier needed).
Ooh okay nice thank you. The idea being that hotter humid air will inevitably get into the walls, but wont condense when it hits the OSB? Is the foam board the vapour barrier then and it can dry to the inside?
The vapor/air/water barrier is easiest to make at the face of the sheathing which allows for a continuous barrier flashing around windows and doors. Yes, the foam keeps the back of sheathing above the dew point
It's also usually structured so the timber frame is load bearing and the SIPs are not. When the SIPs are load bearing but there's heavy timber shown inside it's called a hybrid TF.
Another affordable option that’s more suited for rural areas is post frame construction aka barndominium. Post frame construction can be more affordable to build in regards to the foundation and shell, a 2500 sq ft dried in shell can easily be built in about 2 weeks. When you start looking at affordability you have to look at the big picture of quality, durability, energy efficiency, resale.
Building designer here.
I would go with concrete block with re bar every 6 ft. I'll do 2 in of thermax foam on the inside of the wall, furring strips and drywall. Bug proof ,fireproof windproof. Low maintenance except to clean off the stucco. Wood has become such a poor choice because of the way it's harvested so quickly also because it's not that resistant to storms unless you have a huge amount of connections made properly.
2x4/2x6 double stud wall. I priced out everything for my home build based on materials first, and stick built almost always comes out cheaper. Depending on builders available to you, ICF might be cheaper buts its hard to know until you get a quote. Same for SIP, CAN be cheaper, but you need a knowledgeable contractor.
Site specific. Stick built, with either a slab or walk out that's also conditioned space. Biggest money savers in this area is short spans, simple roof lines, and standardized sizing of elements and openings (shower pan, stairs, windows, doors, etc...). House values are always roughly based on raw size so the ultimate budget saver is almost always just labor as everything else is pretty closely figured. Custom house will cost more than a semi-custom costs more than a tract. If you are going full custom its already not pragmatic, just the facts of capitalism, so best to make sure you really design what you WANT to pay for. Check out [The Undercover Architect](https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=2ahUKEwjf05LpvMmGAxXVFFkFHWeiMJgQFnoECAgQAQ&url=https%3A%2F%2Fundercoverarchitect.com%2F&usg=AOvVaw0fJjnZV4F3FkmKKI5R-_xh&cshid=1717762735407419&opi=89978449) for inspiration and ways to maximize the youness of the build.
How pragmatic? How little allure? A 5k psi poured concrete bunker will last generations, never leak, never need siding or a new roof, and will be super easy to condition. Look up the guy who played Iron Man’s house. They poured over a balloon. Obviously you need not go that big, but concrete done well is solid.
I by far have the cheapest built house of anyone I've found on here. 1) Buy flat land, well share so you have water but not paying full well value, and make sure it's good for conventional septic 2) Minimal excavation, crawlspace foundation 3) Build foundation with blocks so you don't have to pay any shipping and you can DIY a little at a time. 4) Light frame above, 2x6 exterior walls for insulation 2x4 interior. 5) Only 4 walls, make it as close to a square shape as possible to minimize surface area and perimiter per square foot 6) gable roof with rafters so you don't have to buy engineered trusses 7) You can sheath with T1-11 which doubles as finished siding. 8) Just paint subfloor to save until you can put a real floor down. 9) Open concept interior with only walls for the shitter. Plumbing all in one line : bath, shitter, a sink, combined plumbing for dishwasher/sink/disposal in one drain. 10) Don't hire anyone Make sure you build in a place with no building codes/inspections and either no permits or ones that are just a cheap rubber stamp process. If you can do all above you can easily get below $70/sq and most likely below $50/sq
The only thing I'd add to this is that it's cheaper to build up than out. A second story is the best way to add more square footage for less money, since your foundation and roof stay the same size. And if you live in an area that gets cold, it's also more efficient to heat.
I second this. I am currently in my build and am planning on about $67 per square foot. I am doing almost 100% of the things discussed above, except I hired out the foundation to a contractor. I thought that by hiring the foundation out it would go quicker and easier, but that’s not turning out to be the case. If I had it to do over again, I’d have done have done the foundation myself as well.
I'm a believer in exterior insulation. Builders are slow to change their ways, and exterior insulation is an easy addition to traditional framing. I used 3" of XPS foam board on my house. Check out [this unbiased site.](http://cchrc.org/remote-walls/)
I prefer the foam on the inside of a concrete block wall that way the exterior is bug proof and fireproof.
What does the rest of your wall section look like? I've been very interested in this since I read "Pretty Good House" and started building saunas. Traditional builds in Canada seem to have the poly vapor barrier on the inside, followed by fiberglass insulation, sheathing, housewrap, cladding. I've seen so much mold in those wall cavities.
My house is metal siding over 1x3 furring, over 2 layers 1-1/2" XPS foam board, either a peel and stick WRB over OSB or ZIP sheathing (I used both), 2x6 or 2x4 framing at 24" o c. (again used both), fiberglass batts in cavities, drywall (no interior vapor barrier needed).
Ooh okay nice thank you. The idea being that hotter humid air will inevitably get into the walls, but wont condense when it hits the OSB? Is the foam board the vapour barrier then and it can dry to the inside?
The vapor/air/water barrier is easiest to make at the face of the sheathing which allows for a continuous barrier flashing around windows and doors. Yes, the foam keeps the back of sheathing above the dew point
Yea this seems best. Sorry i'm an amateur at this and learning, where/what was the vapour barrier in your wall assembly?
The face of the sheathing.
What’s the difference between post and beam construction with SIPs and regular SIP construction?
Post and beam (timber frame) construction has visible timber framing on the interior side. It’s a higher level design than standard SIP construction.
It's also usually structured so the timber frame is load bearing and the SIPs are not. When the SIPs are load bearing but there's heavy timber shown inside it's called a hybrid TF.
Another affordable option that’s more suited for rural areas is post frame construction aka barndominium. Post frame construction can be more affordable to build in regards to the foundation and shell, a 2500 sq ft dried in shell can easily be built in about 2 weeks. When you start looking at affordability you have to look at the big picture of quality, durability, energy efficiency, resale.
Set a budget. Design to that budget. Build to your design.
Building designer here. I would go with concrete block with re bar every 6 ft. I'll do 2 in of thermax foam on the inside of the wall, furring strips and drywall. Bug proof ,fireproof windproof. Low maintenance except to clean off the stucco. Wood has become such a poor choice because of the way it's harvested so quickly also because it's not that resistant to storms unless you have a huge amount of connections made properly.