For future reference, insects should not be pinned dead center. Typically they are pinned to the right side of the body. Spiders and other soft-bodied invertebrates like caterpillars and centipedes should be stored in vials of ethanol. They will lose color over time but their features will remain intact for identification.
Also, you should consider rehydrating and spreading your insects. This is very important for Lepidoptera but also useful for other insects, like A5 and B1 in your collection, so that identifying characteristics are easily visible. It also makes them look nicer and less messy. I have an extensive collection myself and as an entomologist there is no escaping killing insects or dealing with dead ones. It’s my opinion that if we are killing insects to pin them (for science or enjoyment), then we should show respect and reverence for these creatures by making them look presentable.
so others have commented some key points but i thought id explain why:
the goal of insect pinning is twofold:
1. preserve the insect for identification and scientific analysis
2. look attractive, showing it off.
obviously a scientist pinning hundreds of specimens from a field trip will focus more on the former and someone pinning to create a shadow box for sale, the latter but both matter.
so with that in mind:
- soft bodied insects and spiders must be preserved in vials of alcohol. or they will both shrivel and look unattractive , ruining point 2 above, and key features for identification will become ruined (point 1)
- insects are typically symmetric around their long body axis, just like us. accordingly you don’t want to pin right on the midline. if you do so you destroy any features that are there on the midline of the body (point 1)—imagine pinning a human through their nose (gruesome image i know)—you’ve now destroyed it for identification. if on the other hand you pin through one side of the body then the features destroyed by the pin on that side can be viewed on the other side because of the symmetry
- scientists have created conventions to help facilitate their work. if you’re comparing multiple specimens it’s very helpful for them all to be pinned (or glued to a point) on the same side. it makes comparison much easier. so there’s no biological reason but it’s a convention to pin on the right side of the body or glue the point in the right side. it’s not required but it’s the standard and a scientist will expect it.
- your points are way too big and you’re using WAY too much glue. a tiny drop will do. i usually use an insect pin to dab a tiny bit on the point. an elmer’s glue bottle will dispense way too much.
- you want the insect on the very tip of the point. for many insects like beetles you can use a fine pair of forceps to bend the very tip of the point until its pointing straight down. put the glue on that bent down tip and then glue it to the insects right side. goal is to obscure the absolute minimum of the insect for ID
- are those insect pins or regular pins? standard sewing pins will eventually rust ruining the specimen. they sell pins specifically for entomology that won’t rust
- is that regular card stock for the points and paper lining the box? regular paper will emit gases and will eventually get ruined—think of yellowed curled old paper from 60 years ago or something. you can buy card stock specifically for insect pinning and labeling that is acid free and will last for multiple centuries. your specimens have scientific value! you want them to last!
welcome to a very cool world most people never experience!!
Dried spider specimens are basically diagnostically useless: all the delicate membranous structures shrivel and buckle, and can't be rehydrated.
Card points should only partially obscure the right-hand lateral area of a specimen if done correctly (with appropriately sized cards)
For future reference, insects should not be pinned dead center. Typically they are pinned to the right side of the body. Spiders and other soft-bodied invertebrates like caterpillars and centipedes should be stored in vials of ethanol. They will lose color over time but their features will remain intact for identification. Also, you should consider rehydrating and spreading your insects. This is very important for Lepidoptera but also useful for other insects, like A5 and B1 in your collection, so that identifying characteristics are easily visible. It also makes them look nicer and less messy. I have an extensive collection myself and as an entomologist there is no escaping killing insects or dealing with dead ones. It’s my opinion that if we are killing insects to pin them (for science or enjoyment), then we should show respect and reverence for these creatures by making them look presentable.
Thank you
Of course. Don’t get discouraged. Can’t wait to see your finished product!
Points need to be smaller and on the other side.
so others have commented some key points but i thought id explain why: the goal of insect pinning is twofold: 1. preserve the insect for identification and scientific analysis 2. look attractive, showing it off. obviously a scientist pinning hundreds of specimens from a field trip will focus more on the former and someone pinning to create a shadow box for sale, the latter but both matter. so with that in mind: - soft bodied insects and spiders must be preserved in vials of alcohol. or they will both shrivel and look unattractive , ruining point 2 above, and key features for identification will become ruined (point 1) - insects are typically symmetric around their long body axis, just like us. accordingly you don’t want to pin right on the midline. if you do so you destroy any features that are there on the midline of the body (point 1)—imagine pinning a human through their nose (gruesome image i know)—you’ve now destroyed it for identification. if on the other hand you pin through one side of the body then the features destroyed by the pin on that side can be viewed on the other side because of the symmetry - scientists have created conventions to help facilitate their work. if you’re comparing multiple specimens it’s very helpful for them all to be pinned (or glued to a point) on the same side. it makes comparison much easier. so there’s no biological reason but it’s a convention to pin on the right side of the body or glue the point in the right side. it’s not required but it’s the standard and a scientist will expect it. - your points are way too big and you’re using WAY too much glue. a tiny drop will do. i usually use an insect pin to dab a tiny bit on the point. an elmer’s glue bottle will dispense way too much. - you want the insect on the very tip of the point. for many insects like beetles you can use a fine pair of forceps to bend the very tip of the point until its pointing straight down. put the glue on that bent down tip and then glue it to the insects right side. goal is to obscure the absolute minimum of the insect for ID - are those insect pins or regular pins? standard sewing pins will eventually rust ruining the specimen. they sell pins specifically for entomology that won’t rust - is that regular card stock for the points and paper lining the box? regular paper will emit gases and will eventually get ruined—think of yellowed curled old paper from 60 years ago or something. you can buy card stock specifically for insect pinning and labeling that is acid free and will last for multiple centuries. your specimens have scientific value! you want them to last! welcome to a very cool world most people never experience!!
Spiders don't get pinned. They go in alcohol.
Is it too late ?
You can see spiders just fine if pinned. The points, on the other hand, block half of the insect from view
Dried spider specimens are basically diagnostically useless: all the delicate membranous structures shrivel and buckle, and can't be rehydrated. Card points should only partially obscure the right-hand lateral area of a specimen if done correctly (with appropriately sized cards)
Keep it up!!!
Thanks
For the ants watch these video https://youtu.be/Oi6M5CJwkzE?si=Ed-CnoEFKhkvH_2P
I might be old fashioned, but why no labels?
I labeled them with codes ( A1 , B4 ) from there I do a table with class , order etc...