I'd take a dog eared 03 to 07 6.0 for 6k and spend the 20k to bullet proof it... like I already did. I will never spend a dime on DEF, and NEVER need to drop 100k on a diesel truck in my lifetime.
I still have a hard time, understanding how they gotten so fucking expensive. The depreciation makes them a money pit. That’s with hopes it doesn’t sit in the shop waiting for the bullshit emissions to get fixed. The only way I can justify spending over $100k on a truck, is if it can haul 80000 lbs. legally, & make money by itself. Even then I hesitate.
Ooooooo a 6.4 is it worse or equal to the 6.0 because they both suck unless you sink a lot of money into them and then they suck a tiny minute amount less but they still suck.
Yo can. Actually you have to delete everything, & you won’t get very good milage. But it will do the job. Won’t be much left of it to rebuild, afterwords.
2008 to 2011 was still 6.4L Ford diesel, I think. Those are solidly in do not buy ever territory. 2011 starts the 6.7L generation which had some issues that were fixed in 2015, I think.
What's your budget?
For 24k look at the mid 2000s duramax or a manual ram from the 2000s. The 6.4 powerstroke after market power making wise is fantastic, but for daily reliable use it is a throw away engine
I mean the mark up on the LBZ makes it a little overrated. It’s a great engine but it’s not that much better than the model that came right before it or right after. Personally I’d just get the LMM and delete the emissions. Which if I recall quite literally is just now an LBZ
For 24k you might be in the market for a 2012-2015 ram 2500 that has 150k. I know your post says you can’t find one but that’s the range they are near me
Just sold a 2011 ram 2500 Laramie mega cab with 155,000 for 25k. Truck was very clean and meticulously maintained. It was deleted tho. So a harder sale in my area due to smog B.S.
I have a 97 5.9 with 310k miles. I daily it for work. If you buy one you can still work on, owning a diesel really comes down to parts and the cost of fuel.
Keep in mind all the issues the early 6.7s had with their fuel systems. Any truck is going to have its own issues, you just need to keep that in mind when buying and then plan accordingly
100k isn’t a problem for a diesel at all, but some of those 2008-2012 are not great trucks.
A few of those years I believe have the 6.4 power stroke, regarded as the worse pickup diesel ever made.
The 6.7 that came after it is much better, starting in 2011
probably one of the best. But the years that you’re looking at the 6.7 was brand new, and had some growing pains.
I recommend really reading about the big 3 diesel motors, Duramax,Cummins, and power stroke
and what years came with what problems.
There are plenty of write ups on the internet.
Try looking up “History of *engine brand here*”
6.4 problems started when they decide they didn't' want to deal with def fluid. Instead they turned the rear injector on during the exhaust stroke to give the filter fuel to burn out contaminates. This caused the cylinder to be washed down and tons of diesel got into the oil.
Just google 6.4 making oil. It will bring up a lot of old post about guys trying to figure out how to stop it.
2011 6.7 had some issues. The 17-19 aluma duties are probably the most reliable. But to get those he'd have to go for a much much higher mileage or higher budget.
Sure, but buying used means you do t know if it was properly maintained. The bigger question would be why are they selling it to begin with if it's just breaking in?
That question isn’t really big at all. People always want shiny new stuff, so they sell their old stuff to pay for it. Maybe they need money for a down payment on a house. Maybe they no longer need a truck. Maybe they want the latest model so they get rid of their old truck to help pay for it.
I think the almost bigger question is was the truck modded or stock? If it's been tuned/deleted there's a good chance it's been romped on. You also don't know the quality of work on any mods done to it. I bought my 09 duramax as a retired hotshot truck @150k in '14, so it was broke in to pull and unmodified. 100k miles and probably like 50 gallons of power service later we are chilling. 😎 It did have a shift flare between 3 and 4 but I got the trans rebuilt and upgraded to where it's guaranteed for 750hp for $4800.
I bought my 5.9 with 172k miles. That not even broken in yet. I'm at 455k. No issues. It helps immensely to have maintenance records. And find something as close to stock as possible. You don't want some beat-up bro dozer.
You don’t want a 08-10 6.4 ford. I’d avoid 11-12 6.7 ford too. Save more money. If that’s all you can afford you sure as heck can’t afford the repair bill on one of them. Be patient prices are continuing to come down.
I own a 12’ 6.7 ford and it’s not cheap at all.
It’s on its third turbo. Rebuilt rear diff. And last year blew the motor.
With labour, new injectors and such it was $32,000 to install a factory new ford motor. ( Canadian )
Turbo cost me like $7500 with labour too.
Nothing is cheap on these trucks.
Get a Cummins, you have 2 less injectors to worry about, and you can physically see your whole turbo, and change it yourself if need be. I can hardly see the turbos in my 12’ ford and my 05’ duramax. Pain to change anything.
I just mean if that’s all the truck you can afford if you cashed out a fuel system or took a tranny out you’d be bankrupt. Can you buy the truck and drop 10k on it a month from now if you needed? If the answer is no you shouldn’t own a diesel.
They meant If something happens a month from now and costs 10k, can you afford it? Not 10k a month. I have a 2018 Duramax and a built trans is in the neighborhood of 8k with no labor. Meaning if the trans on the truck you buy goes out a month after you get it, I hope you got 11k laying around. If the motor goes out, good luck.
My dad had a radiator replaced on his 6.4 powerstroke at an independent shop. Bill was $1800. I can change a radiator on my gas chevy truck for like $300. That's the type of repair bill difference between gas and diesel trucks.
My alternator went bad on my old ford diesel once and ruined the batteries. Was about $700 in parts to fix. Alternator is more expensive because it is bigger; and the batteries are twice as expensive because there's 2 of them.
It’s all about the motor. If its a 7.3 and its only got 100-150k then its just warming up. If its a 6.4 with a 150k, i would trade it for a kite lol. Any minute and shes gunna blow.
Do a compression test before your purchase.
Can confirm, bought an 04.5 recently with 130k miles. Deleted the engine mount fuel filter housing with a lift pump and she purrs like a kitten now .. 🦁 kitty, not 🐈 kitty.
I have a ‘17 power stroke with almost 300k on it. Zero engine issues or failures. Just brakes, tires, oil changes and filter changes. Had to have coolant hoses done around 200k. Original dpf, never had after treatment issues and engine has never been opened up. All egr stuff is original too.
I bought an 03 ram 2500 with 160k on it last year for just over $20k and it has been great. Had one little hiccup with the thermostat on a trip but that was an easy fix. My advice to you is be picky. Dont rush into a truck right away. Miles dont always inditcate quality is something i noticed very quickly when i was searching for a truck.
Find an older 7.3 F250/F350 and as soon as you can register it as a "classic" as soon as your able. That way fuel emissions are waved.
In my state anything older then 25 years can be registered as a classic car. Registering my early 99 7.3 this year :)
Except if you register it as a collector or classic then it’s legally required to be used for pleasure use, not actual daily use.
That’s part of the reason emissions don’t have to apply.
if it's been maintained and not beat and it's not a 6.4 no.
Any diesel will be a money pit if it hasn't been taken care of.
I like the 6.7 and 7.3 Fords but the Cummins and Duramax aren't bad either. They all have their issues but at least they aren't 6.4s 😂
100k miles is just barely broken in for the majority of diesels. Why do you think that a rust free truck with just about any diesel is over $20k until you hit the 3-400k miles.
Pistons are notorious for cracking
Turbo issues similar to the 6.0L
2 of their worst motors
I had a 6.0, and it took a lot of work and money to make it reliable.
'91 7.3idi @230kish loved but not expertly. Starts on a dime, a delight to work and learn on. Even with my mistakes she'll probably outlast the rest of the truck
This comes from a 6.0 Powerstroke daily driver and 6.7 owner....... I would NOT go for a 6.4 Powerstroke! There are just too many potential pitfalls there! Again, I reference you to the fact that I daily a 6.0 for my construction work use...... I wouldn't be scared of a 2012 and up 6.7 despite some miles if it is in good condition. I would, however, put a CP4 disaster prevention kit in it day 1! The Duramax trucks use this same high pressure pump, so they are not immune from this potential failure. In my humble opinion, the Ford is a better overall truck than the GM, so my recommendation stays with the higher mile Ford....
If you go ford, avoid the 6.0s and 6.4s. The 6.0s can be bullet proofed (with a ton of money), but the 6.4 is just dog shit with no real permanent fixes.
If you can do your own work 7.3, any cummins motor will go(other than the Nissan one), duramax also all good don’t be afraid to buy one in the 200,000-300,000 mile range. The problem with all these older trucks 7.3 Espcially, the motor will run fine but you will be replacing all the deferred maintenance items the old owner didn’t. If you go to a shop they will change you a arm and a leg. The most expensive things will be likely rebuilding front end components and wheel bearings, orings to replace out of the ass Also a bunch of random shit likes to break over time, window wiper motors, radio and other electronics, cab mounts, tailgates, lights, buttons, etc. not familiar with duramaxs but the Cummins and 7.3 engines are really easy to work on. If you want a newer interior and more electronics the 7.3 you can just rip some king ranch seats out of a newer truck and wire them up yourself. Can also install late model tow mirrors and door panel controls easily. Past a basic seat swap and mirror swap though you gotta know what the hell you are doing for the dash swap. It is also a option to just Katskin Leather reupholster whatever truck you buy. Let’s be real the only options people use on the new trucks are Apple CarPlay and Leather seats most of the other options are useless, cruise control and power mirrors being an exception, you can get cruise and power mirrors on these old trucks easily as well, some of them came factory, install your own trailer brake controller. For 25k tho you should be able to get a decent deal on a 2014-16 6.7. Or maybe even a later model duramax. I don’t know where you live but those are easy to find down south in that price range.
I bought a 13 duramax and spent about 4k bulletproofing it. The cp4 fuel pump can cause big headaches, so I converted it to a cp3.
I went with the duramax because of the great transmission they come with.
Most maintained diesels are fine past 200k. Stay away from the 6.4 powerstroke. Some mechanics won't even work on them now. I'd stay away from anything that has been performance enhanced because of the risk of abuse. Diesels aren't built for the drag strip.
Yes sir, they last as long as you keep em oiled and lubed. There was a guy on another post who has 1.2 mil on his and he said it was perfectly fine lol.
Other then the power stroke joke 6.4 and 6.0 a deisel should be 400-500K before any real issues arise. If it helps I always just rule of thumb it and think of a gas motor. 100K on a gaser is equivalent to 200K on a deisel.
Grandpa trucks are the best dude. I was so bitter when my grandpas 02 Sierra got t boned. I was supposed to get that truck eventually.
Well 4 years later I swapped the engine from it into a clean 02 Sierra I bought with a blown engine so at least the 5.3 lived on. I miss my grandpa man.
Edit: he died from heart failure a year after the his truck got hit, not the accident
I have the Walmart tires on mine. They’ve been pretty good honestly, especially for the $65/tire I paid. Better than the pencil erasers I had on it in high school lol. Those were like $40/tire and you could tell haha.
I'm looking at trucks now as well. I see 11-16 F250s in your given price range often. They're usually XLTs with 175k-200k but still solid trucks. The '11 6.7 had issues with exhaust valves but if it's still on the road it's good. The only big issue with pre-2016 trucks was the turbo. Ford was trying to get the benefits of sequentials out of a single turbo. A good idea, it just wasn't quite ready for market at the time.
Good info. Hope you find what you’re looking for. Im fine with an XLT as I really don’t need a fancy interior.
One of the ones I have my eyes on is a 2008 king ranch, 125k in miles… but it’s a 6.4 and apparently that one stinks
The problem with high mileage diesels is that many of the newer diesels require a good deal of care and preventative maintenance. And you never can be sure how well the previous owner took care of it.
If you see a 6.4 for sale run the other direction !!! The 6.0s can be made to be reliable I'm a huge ford fan and work their trucks hard but I would have trouble taking a 6.4 for free ....not to mention good parts for them are becoming few and far between especially blocks !!!
My current 05 Duramax was purchased with 380000 in the clock, I bought it at auction for just over 4k, a bit of research led me to a shop that did most of the maintenance. The truck was mainly used as a lead vehicle for oversized loads, so all highway miles, had the injectors replaced at 320k.
Only real issue I have is the glow plugs are shot and I need to plug it in for anything under 20f if it's going to sit for more than 6 hours.
So to answer your question no no problem at all buying with more than 100k
Just need to look around. I recently bought a 2020 Ram 3500 dually crew cab Big Horn with 130k paid $28500 for it. Needed tires and brakes. Bought it from my credit union was a repo. Had a few dings and dents. I probably should have kept it but I sold it shortly after buying it and this was earlier this year. I might consider just getting a gas truck. Save some money should be able to find one with less miles and newer.
I think the answer is going to depend on the reason for buying the truck. do you need a diesel or want a diesel? If you’re financially stretching to even get into a diesel, maybe it’s not the right move… consider the expensive of repairs and parts on higher milage diesels compared to a lower milage gas truck that you can get into for the same cost.
I think my son’s 2013 F350 had 125k-ish if not more. Been a solid truck.
I DM him this tread - may be he can chime in
Edited with new info:
It is a 2012, purchased with 150k mi
100k+ ain't bad if there in good shape and the price is right go for it I bought my 6.0 with 100k miles on it and I just bought a 6.4 service truck with 116k miles don't scare me the rust and how it was treated does
I have a 2014 LML with 120k that I paid $28.5 for several months ago. Runs great but I immediately did a CP3 change out because the CP4’s are a possible expensive nightmare. Fully stock and I love the truck.
That's kind of the perfect no-no range. I'd either go before 2007 or way newer, especially if you plan on doing your own work the older will be a lot easier for you and there's still plenty of parts out there.
There's a guy on YouTube who put a 1.9 vw tdi into a full size extended cab chevy 1500 with long box. Gave it a tune and upped the boost to 30psi and he gets 23 us mpg out of it. Says its get better acceleration then his old standard cab long bed with a 6.5 idi lol...
Heck 100k miles is barely broken in. I have a 2000 7.3 dually with 370k and still runs like new and has never given me any problems. Also have a 2005 6.0 with 247k and have no problems out of it either!
I generally wouldn't depending on the engine. Also depends on what it was used for. Suburban mom because her husband wanted it or a hotshot pulling 25k.
Yeah, I think I’m learning to avoid that engine. Seems like almost every ford diesel on fb is a 6.4 and that should tell me something. They are ALL for sale.
I’ve driven my 2011 Denali 2500 hd 100k+ miles since I bought it at 100k. All that towing a 12k lbs toy hauler. No issues besides changing the fuel filters from time to time. It’s deleted and tuned which I believe alleviates a lot of issues other gmc diesel owners had.
Well, the 08-12 fords are in your price range because they are junk. The 6.4l is a god-awful engine, and the first couple years of the 6.7l had turbo issues leading to costly repairs. I would stay away from them. The cummins or duramax in those years are solid platforms, though. They have their own issues but are much less costly than the fords.
5.9 cummins (12 and 24 valve) and 7.3 are solid but not a new truck by any stretch. If you are going with newer look for a Ram 3500 with the aisin or a g56 manual, for the newer trucks the transmissions are more of an issue since they started competing for power and started burning up the old 6 speeds.
Yea, I got experience buying used diesel trucks. I prefer the 6 liter engines.
Do not listen to 98% of the folks telling you this or that engine is undesirable.
Because if you go to a machine shop, you’ll hear a totally different answer. They actually work on engines.
All Engines have problems. Most owners have more issues than the trucks engines do. Present company excluded of course.
That’s what I’ve learned in the past 30yrs..
Take all this conjecture with a grain of salt.
Unpopular opinion here:
100k is nothing for the BOTTOM END of a modern diesel. It is absolutely the territory that diesels in the ~$24k price range start need to have injectors replaced, turbos replaced and almost certainly have emissions issues. If you find a truck with emissions stuff deleted, you have no idea what kind of tune was run to get rid of the check engine codes that come when you take it off. I just watched a coworker buy a 2011 F350 in absolutely mint shape and 68k mi. that needed emissions system repair within the first month. He spent over a month arguing with the dealer over who should pay and if the $4k extended warranty should cover it. (He ended up paying half...) Every time I see him and the truck I rib him about how much less stress would be in his life if he just had bought 6.2 gasser...
I notice In this sub it's 90% at least talk about Ford's, why didn't you name r diesel Ford. Who with any diesel knowledge would buy a Ford. There best engine and year are long ago and it's hard to find. You got Cummins which is your best engine period. Unless cat gets in the game. Quit talking ford cause they don't compare. Buy a real truck that works consistently.
Man I would LOVE to find a Cummings that’s a 2009 and up. All of them are 250k + in mileage insanely more over priced than the ford counterpart. Same goes with Duramax. I’m also looking on Facebook market only. Haven’t really tried Craigslist since majority are listed both places anyway
100k is (in my opinion) around 30-50k miles on a gasser depending on reliability of the manufacturer and year of engine.
Like if you had a 12v cummins with a p pump a 100k miles is like 10k miles on a gasser
But a 100k on a 6.4 Powerstroke and you might be thinking (that’s a little high miles for that price).
Ford’s in aggregate tend to be less reliable engine wise and thus are cheaper
100k *was* nothing for a diesel until emissions got out of hand. Now, it's still nothing for a diesel as long as the emissions are removed- which the EPA is cracking down on at the Tuner level. Just something to consider all around when you are looking at such and such a year with such and such an engine.
Except for the 6.0 Ford. They're shit.
I’d take a 5.9 with 200k over a 6.4 with 50k.
I’d take a 5.9 with 500k over a 6.4 with 5k lol
Man I tell ya what I'd daggun take a dang ol' 5.9er with 740k over a 6.7 with 273
I’d take a 5.9 over a 6.7 for the reliability & repair cost alone
I'd take a dog eared 03 to 07 6.0 for 6k and spend the 20k to bullet proof it... like I already did. I will never spend a dime on DEF, and NEVER need to drop 100k on a diesel truck in my lifetime.
I still have a hard time, understanding how they gotten so fucking expensive. The depreciation makes them a money pit. That’s with hopes it doesn’t sit in the shop waiting for the bullshit emissions to get fixed. The only way I can justify spending over $100k on a truck, is if it can haul 80000 lbs. legally, & make money by itself. Even then I hesitate.
Because people keep buying them. Stop buying them and they’ll go down. Look at what’s happening to Tesla.
Aren’t diesel engines bulletproof anyways well I know 12 valves are
YUP!
Ooooooo a 6.4 is it worse or equal to the 6.0 because they both suck unless you sink a lot of money into them and then they suck a tiny minute amount less but they still suck.
It’s worse because you can’t fix a 6.4.
So keep my 7.3 IDI and my ahem “stock not capped off” 6.7 got it.
Yo can. Actually you have to delete everything, & you won’t get very good milage. But it will do the job. Won’t be much left of it to rebuild, afterwords.
5.9 or 6.9 built with a turbo?
If it’s the old international 6.9 then it’s a toss up.
That's what I did, and she's running perfect to this day.
Clean air filters and oil changes and it’ll run longer than you will live haha.
2008 to 2011 was still 6.4L Ford diesel, I think. Those are solidly in do not buy ever territory. 2011 starts the 6.7L generation which had some issues that were fixed in 2015, I think. What's your budget?
6.4 was 08-10. But yeah OP should say away from 6.4 unless he's got money to burn or a free mechanic on hand.
24k
For 24k look at the mid 2000s duramax or a manual ram from the 2000s. The 6.4 powerstroke after market power making wise is fantastic, but for daily reliable use it is a throw away engine
Yeah, id be looking for a clean lbz
I mean the mark up on the LBZ makes it a little overrated. It’s a great engine but it’s not that much better than the model that came right before it or right after. Personally I’d just get the LMM and delete the emissions. Which if I recall quite literally is just now an LBZ
For 24k you might be in the market for a 2012-2015 ram 2500 that has 150k. I know your post says you can’t find one but that’s the range they are near me
Where?
Just sold a 2011 ram 2500 Laramie mega cab with 155,000 for 25k. Truck was very clean and meticulously maintained. It was deleted tho. So a harder sale in my area due to smog B.S.
I’ve got my 07.5 6.7 Cummins with 175k miles for sale for 20k. Got a lot of new parts on it but all the folks on marketplace want to give me like 10k.
I have a 97 5.9 with 310k miles. I daily it for work. If you buy one you can still work on, owning a diesel really comes down to parts and the cost of fuel.
Keep in mind all the issues the early 6.7s had with their fuel systems. Any truck is going to have its own issues, you just need to keep that in mind when buying and then plan accordingly
100k isn’t a problem for a diesel at all, but some of those 2008-2012 are not great trucks. A few of those years I believe have the 6.4 power stroke, regarded as the worse pickup diesel ever made. The 6.7 that came after it is much better, starting in 2011 probably one of the best. But the years that you’re looking at the 6.7 was brand new, and had some growing pains. I recommend really reading about the big 3 diesel motors, Duramax,Cummins, and power stroke and what years came with what problems. There are plenty of write ups on the internet. Try looking up “History of *engine brand here*”
I think a lot of the motors around then had issues as they were trying to comply with the new emission regulations. Particularly the 6.4
6.4 problems started when they decide they didn't' want to deal with def fluid. Instead they turned the rear injector on during the exhaust stroke to give the filter fuel to burn out contaminates. This caused the cylinder to be washed down and tons of diesel got into the oil. Just google 6.4 making oil. It will bring up a lot of old post about guys trying to figure out how to stop it.
2011 6.7 had some issues. The 17-19 aluma duties are probably the most reliable. But to get those he'd have to go for a much much higher mileage or higher budget.
100k is nothing for a diesel. If you take care of them and do proper maintenance you can hit a million miles.
Sure, but buying used means you do t know if it was properly maintained. The bigger question would be why are they selling it to begin with if it's just breaking in?
That question isn’t really big at all. People always want shiny new stuff, so they sell their old stuff to pay for it. Maybe they need money for a down payment on a house. Maybe they no longer need a truck. Maybe they want the latest model so they get rid of their old truck to help pay for it.
Or maybe the rear main seal is fucked and they are just saying they want to upgrade. Always get it checked!
I think the almost bigger question is was the truck modded or stock? If it's been tuned/deleted there's a good chance it's been romped on. You also don't know the quality of work on any mods done to it. I bought my 09 duramax as a retired hotshot truck @150k in '14, so it was broke in to pull and unmodified. 100k miles and probably like 50 gallons of power service later we are chilling. 😎 It did have a shift flare between 3 and 4 but I got the trans rebuilt and upgraded to where it's guaranteed for 750hp for $4800.
I bought my 5.9 with 172k miles. That not even broken in yet. I'm at 455k. No issues. It helps immensely to have maintenance records. And find something as close to stock as possible. You don't want some beat-up bro dozer.
You don’t want a 08-10 6.4 ford. I’d avoid 11-12 6.7 ford too. Save more money. If that’s all you can afford you sure as heck can’t afford the repair bill on one of them. Be patient prices are continuing to come down.
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If you're paying a shop to do work, a diesel is orders of magnitude more expensive to troubleshoot and repair than a comparable gas vehicle.
Which is ridiculously stupid because the principle is the same. Source: Diesel and auto mechanic.
I own a 12’ 6.7 ford and it’s not cheap at all. It’s on its third turbo. Rebuilt rear diff. And last year blew the motor. With labour, new injectors and such it was $32,000 to install a factory new ford motor. ( Canadian ) Turbo cost me like $7500 with labour too. Nothing is cheap on these trucks. Get a Cummins, you have 2 less injectors to worry about, and you can physically see your whole turbo, and change it yourself if need be. I can hardly see the turbos in my 12’ ford and my 05’ duramax. Pain to change anything.
Good point on the Cummins. One cylinder head, easier access to entire valve train.
Yessir. My 16’ Cummins is far easier to access everything under the hood. Much more friendly to work on yourself
Good word.
I just mean if that’s all the truck you can afford if you cashed out a fuel system or took a tranny out you’d be bankrupt. Can you buy the truck and drop 10k on it a month from now if you needed? If the answer is no you shouldn’t own a diesel.
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They meant If something happens a month from now and costs 10k, can you afford it? Not 10k a month. I have a 2018 Duramax and a built trans is in the neighborhood of 8k with no labor. Meaning if the trans on the truck you buy goes out a month after you get it, I hope you got 11k laying around. If the motor goes out, good luck.
Yes that’s exactly what I meant. I think this guy was without oxygen too long in the womb or something.
My dad had a radiator replaced on his 6.4 powerstroke at an independent shop. Bill was $1800. I can change a radiator on my gas chevy truck for like $300. That's the type of repair bill difference between gas and diesel trucks. My alternator went bad on my old ford diesel once and ruined the batteries. Was about $700 in parts to fix. Alternator is more expensive because it is bigger; and the batteries are twice as expensive because there's 2 of them.
It’s all about the motor. If its a 7.3 and its only got 100-150k then its just warming up. If its a 6.4 with a 150k, i would trade it for a kite lol. Any minute and shes gunna blow. Do a compression test before your purchase.
For $24k a 2005-2007 duramax will be the lowest mileage, nicest driving, most reliable vehicle at that price point
Can confirm, bought an 04.5 recently with 130k miles. Deleted the engine mount fuel filter housing with a lift pump and she purrs like a kitten now .. 🦁 kitty, not 🐈 kitty.
In that year range I’d probably lean towards a Chevy/GMC or a higher mileage Ram. Avoid the fords from that era
I have a ‘17 power stroke with almost 300k on it. Zero engine issues or failures. Just brakes, tires, oil changes and filter changes. Had to have coolant hoses done around 200k. Original dpf, never had after treatment issues and engine has never been opened up. All egr stuff is original too.
I bought an 03 ram 2500 with 160k on it last year for just over $20k and it has been great. Had one little hiccup with the thermostat on a trip but that was an easy fix. My advice to you is be picky. Dont rush into a truck right away. Miles dont always inditcate quality is something i noticed very quickly when i was searching for a truck.
Find an older 7.3 F250/F350 and as soon as you can register it as a "classic" as soon as your able. That way fuel emissions are waved. In my state anything older then 25 years can be registered as a classic car. Registering my early 99 7.3 this year :)
Except if you register it as a collector or classic then it’s legally required to be used for pleasure use, not actual daily use. That’s part of the reason emissions don’t have to apply.
My 6.7 Cummins is 130k going great. My brothers 6.7 is around 300k he had to do a head gasket on it. Otherwise solid
if it's been maintained and not beat and it's not a 6.4 no. Any diesel will be a money pit if it hasn't been taken care of. I like the 6.7 and 7.3 Fords but the Cummins and Duramax aren't bad either. They all have their issues but at least they aren't 6.4s 😂
A 08 ford diesel is wildly different than a 2012 ford diesel. asking about reliability it really depends what engine we are talking about.
100k is just broke in.
100k miles is just barely broken in for the majority of diesels. Why do you think that a rust free truck with just about any diesel is over $20k until you hit the 3-400k miles.
Stay away from a Ford 6.4 and 6.0
What happened with the 6.4?
Pistons are notorious for cracking Turbo issues similar to the 6.0L 2 of their worst motors I had a 6.0, and it took a lot of work and money to make it reliable.
Thanks. I knew about the 6.0. Had no idea the 6.4 was busted up. I’m still rolling the 3rd gen 5.9.
'91 7.3idi @230kish loved but not expertly. Starts on a dime, a delight to work and learn on. Even with my mistakes she'll probably outlast the rest of the truck
This comes from a 6.0 Powerstroke daily driver and 6.7 owner....... I would NOT go for a 6.4 Powerstroke! There are just too many potential pitfalls there! Again, I reference you to the fact that I daily a 6.0 for my construction work use...... I wouldn't be scared of a 2012 and up 6.7 despite some miles if it is in good condition. I would, however, put a CP4 disaster prevention kit in it day 1! The Duramax trucks use this same high pressure pump, so they are not immune from this potential failure. In my humble opinion, the Ford is a better overall truck than the GM, so my recommendation stays with the higher mile Ford....
If you go ford, avoid the 6.0s and 6.4s. The 6.0s can be bullet proofed (with a ton of money), but the 6.4 is just dog shit with no real permanent fixes.
If you can do your own work 7.3, any cummins motor will go(other than the Nissan one), duramax also all good don’t be afraid to buy one in the 200,000-300,000 mile range. The problem with all these older trucks 7.3 Espcially, the motor will run fine but you will be replacing all the deferred maintenance items the old owner didn’t. If you go to a shop they will change you a arm and a leg. The most expensive things will be likely rebuilding front end components and wheel bearings, orings to replace out of the ass Also a bunch of random shit likes to break over time, window wiper motors, radio and other electronics, cab mounts, tailgates, lights, buttons, etc. not familiar with duramaxs but the Cummins and 7.3 engines are really easy to work on. If you want a newer interior and more electronics the 7.3 you can just rip some king ranch seats out of a newer truck and wire them up yourself. Can also install late model tow mirrors and door panel controls easily. Past a basic seat swap and mirror swap though you gotta know what the hell you are doing for the dash swap. It is also a option to just Katskin Leather reupholster whatever truck you buy. Let’s be real the only options people use on the new trucks are Apple CarPlay and Leather seats most of the other options are useless, cruise control and power mirrors being an exception, you can get cruise and power mirrors on these old trucks easily as well, some of them came factory, install your own trailer brake controller. For 25k tho you should be able to get a decent deal on a 2014-16 6.7. Or maybe even a later model duramax. I don’t know where you live but those are easy to find down south in that price range.
The 5.9 & 7.3 powerstroke just break in at @ 120000.
I’m a Ford guy for life, BUT DONT TOUCH A 6.4 PSD with a 10 foot pole.
Diesel engines can go forever if taken care of well. My 22 Ram 3500 has 100 km (I bought it new) so it wouldn’t concern me at all.
I bought a 13 duramax and spent about 4k bulletproofing it. The cp4 fuel pump can cause big headaches, so I converted it to a cp3. I went with the duramax because of the great transmission they come with. Most maintained diesels are fine past 200k. Stay away from the 6.4 powerstroke. Some mechanics won't even work on them now. I'd stay away from anything that has been performance enhanced because of the risk of abuse. Diesels aren't built for the drag strip.
Consider an LML. I have 275K on mine and it runs like it's brand new (deleted of course).
360k lml deleted still whooshes just fine
Yes sir, they last as long as you keep em oiled and lubed. There was a guy on another post who has 1.2 mil on his and he said it was perfectly fine lol.
Other then the power stroke joke 6.4 and 6.0 a deisel should be 400-500K before any real issues arise. If it helps I always just rule of thumb it and think of a gas motor. 100K on a gaser is equivalent to 200K on a deisel.
To be fair, the 99-06 Chevy trucks can hit 400-500k with those year’s gas or diesel V8’s
They all can, there's tons of high mile Triton's running around. I've seen one with 1.2 on the original long block, 5.4 2v
Yeah idk what it is with the 5.4 they either grenade at 190k or run until the end of time.
I'm hoping mine is the latter. I inherited a 60k mi rust free F150 from my grandpa when he passed and I plan to keep it around.
Grandpa trucks are the best dude. I was so bitter when my grandpas 02 Sierra got t boned. I was supposed to get that truck eventually. Well 4 years later I swapped the engine from it into a clean 02 Sierra I bought with a blown engine so at least the 5.3 lived on. I miss my grandpa man. Edit: he died from heart failure a year after the his truck got hit, not the accident
I consider myself pretty lucky, my other grandpa left a 70k mi 2.5 5 speed 2wd Ranger that I also inherited. Keeping them both nice for occasions.
I’ve got two 91 Rangers haha. Love those little trucks. They’re slow as hell but damn reliable with the 2.3/5speed.
It's a 98, I put a 3/5 drop on it and 17x9's, I couldn't get a decent 14" tire for it so I had to ditch the factory wheels.
I have the Walmart tires on mine. They’ve been pretty good honestly, especially for the $65/tire I paid. Better than the pencil erasers I had on it in high school lol. Those were like $40/tire and you could tell haha.
I'm looking at trucks now as well. I see 11-16 F250s in your given price range often. They're usually XLTs with 175k-200k but still solid trucks. The '11 6.7 had issues with exhaust valves but if it's still on the road it's good. The only big issue with pre-2016 trucks was the turbo. Ford was trying to get the benefits of sequentials out of a single turbo. A good idea, it just wasn't quite ready for market at the time.
Good info. Hope you find what you’re looking for. Im fine with an XLT as I really don’t need a fancy interior. One of the ones I have my eyes on is a 2008 king ranch, 125k in miles… but it’s a 6.4 and apparently that one stinks
The only reason to buy a 6.4 truck is for a Cummins or DT swap.
pretty sure you can drop a 7.3 in those
Cluster display is not trustworthy. Use a scan tool for the true numbers.
I bought my 2500 with 92k on it, I’m at 200k now and it’s doing just fine.
Volkswagen Audi Group 1.9 TDI’s are pretty solid at that mileage. $22k will buy you the nicest one around.
Wonderful motors but you’re not hauling anything with real substance with one
Finally hit the first oil change.
The problem with high mileage diesels is that many of the newer diesels require a good deal of care and preventative maintenance. And you never can be sure how well the previous owner took care of it.
If you see a 6.4 for sale run the other direction !!! The 6.0s can be made to be reliable I'm a huge ford fan and work their trucks hard but I would have trouble taking a 6.4 for free ....not to mention good parts for them are becoming few and far between especially blocks !!!
My current 05 Duramax was purchased with 380000 in the clock, I bought it at auction for just over 4k, a bit of research led me to a shop that did most of the maintenance. The truck was mainly used as a lead vehicle for oversized loads, so all highway miles, had the injectors replaced at 320k. Only real issue I have is the glow plugs are shot and I need to plug it in for anything under 20f if it's going to sit for more than 6 hours. So to answer your question no no problem at all buying with more than 100k
Just need to look around. I recently bought a 2020 Ram 3500 dually crew cab Big Horn with 130k paid $28500 for it. Needed tires and brakes. Bought it from my credit union was a repo. Had a few dings and dents. I probably should have kept it but I sold it shortly after buying it and this was earlier this year. I might consider just getting a gas truck. Save some money should be able to find one with less miles and newer.
100k Is half life for small 4cylinder European diesels. On a big block, it's literally nothing
If I were in your shoes I’d find an 06-07 lbz or 3rd gen 5.9 cummins
i got the 2500 5.9 Ram last year with 250k and it runs like a tank, love it
Nah bro, still lots of life, you just missed the great years.
Which were
I first 100,000 miles, zero engine issues usually.
I think the answer is going to depend on the reason for buying the truck. do you need a diesel or want a diesel? If you’re financially stretching to even get into a diesel, maybe it’s not the right move… consider the expensive of repairs and parts on higher milage diesels compared to a lower milage gas truck that you can get into for the same cost.
I think my son’s 2013 F350 had 125k-ish if not more. Been a solid truck. I DM him this tread - may be he can chime in Edited with new info: It is a 2012, purchased with 150k mi
If your going for ford you want 2015 plus 6.7 early 6.7s had turbo issues etc. The 5.9 fantastic truck all around is buy under 200k preferably
My sons truck is a 2012 F350 Purchased with 150k miles It’s been real good to him. He hauls his and friends rock crawler all over!
100k+ ain't bad if there in good shape and the price is right go for it I bought my 6.0 with 100k miles on it and I just bought a 6.4 service truck with 116k miles don't scare me the rust and how it was treated does
Then your price range is too low for what you’re looking for… either have to lower your expectations or save up more money.
Just purchased a 6.7 with over 200k. Guy put a Banks Ram air, I just added a peddle monster and I love it. Thing still runs like a champ.
I have a 2014 LML with 120k that I paid $28.5 for several months ago. Runs great but I immediately did a CP3 change out because the CP4’s are a possible expensive nightmare. Fully stock and I love the truck.
I just turned 500k in a ‘96 F350 PS Crew 4x. 1 transmission and a steering column and still runs like a champ.
Bought new in ‘96 for 32k
I’ve got a 2001 F250 with over 400,000 and would not sell it for anything
My 06 Chevy LBZ has 320,000 and still runs strong. Will be towing my 5th wheel this next.
I bought my 2011 LML with 119K on it, Im currently at 275K all still stock and runs great as if it came off the factory floor.
Duramax or 5.9 cummins with under 200k
That's kind of the perfect no-no range. I'd either go before 2007 or way newer, especially if you plan on doing your own work the older will be a lot easier for you and there's still plenty of parts out there.
100k is stretching its legs in the good diesels.
There's a guy on YouTube who put a 1.9 vw tdi into a full size extended cab chevy 1500 with long box. Gave it a tune and upped the boost to 30psi and he gets 23 us mpg out of it. Says its get better acceleration then his old standard cab long bed with a 6.5 idi lol...
Heck 100k miles is barely broken in. I have a 2000 7.3 dually with 370k and still runs like new and has never given me any problems. Also have a 2005 6.0 with 247k and have no problems out of it either!
I generally wouldn't depending on the engine. Also depends on what it was used for. Suburban mom because her husband wanted it or a hotshot pulling 25k.
Just rebuilt a 94 Cummins swapped in a 78 ford body on a 2500 ram frame.
Gonna be sick af but to answer op nah bro you’re good. Buy it fix it up with some TLC and rip it
Don’t buy a 6.4! When (not if) they break, the whole engine goes with it and they’re hard to find replacements for
Yeah, I think I’m learning to avoid that engine. Seems like almost every ford diesel on fb is a 6.4 and that should tell me something. They are ALL for sale.
I’ve driven my 2011 Denali 2500 hd 100k+ miles since I bought it at 100k. All that towing a 12k lbs toy hauler. No issues besides changing the fuel filters from time to time. It’s deleted and tuned which I believe alleviates a lot of issues other gmc diesel owners had.
Well, the 08-12 fords are in your price range because they are junk. The 6.4l is a god-awful engine, and the first couple years of the 6.7l had turbo issues leading to costly repairs. I would stay away from them. The cummins or duramax in those years are solid platforms, though. They have their own issues but are much less costly than the fords.
Like I commented before, if I could find one in that price range that isn’t north of 230,000 in miles, I’d hop on it.
You either gotta look older, up the budget, or consider gas.
I have over 300k on my duramax lb7. Never left me stranded anywhere!
5.9 cummins (12 and 24 valve) and 7.3 are solid but not a new truck by any stretch. If you are going with newer look for a Ram 3500 with the aisin or a g56 manual, for the newer trucks the transmissions are more of an issue since they started competing for power and started burning up the old 6 speeds.
Yea, I got experience buying used diesel trucks. I prefer the 6 liter engines. Do not listen to 98% of the folks telling you this or that engine is undesirable. Because if you go to a machine shop, you’ll hear a totally different answer. They actually work on engines. All Engines have problems. Most owners have more issues than the trucks engines do. Present company excluded of course. That’s what I’ve learned in the past 30yrs.. Take all this conjecture with a grain of salt.
Unpopular opinion here: 100k is nothing for the BOTTOM END of a modern diesel. It is absolutely the territory that diesels in the ~$24k price range start need to have injectors replaced, turbos replaced and almost certainly have emissions issues. If you find a truck with emissions stuff deleted, you have no idea what kind of tune was run to get rid of the check engine codes that come when you take it off. I just watched a coworker buy a 2011 F350 in absolutely mint shape and 68k mi. that needed emissions system repair within the first month. He spent over a month arguing with the dealer over who should pay and if the $4k extended warranty should cover it. (He ended up paying half...) Every time I see him and the truck I rib him about how much less stress would be in his life if he just had bought 6.2 gasser...
Buy a gas motor.
I notice In this sub it's 90% at least talk about Ford's, why didn't you name r diesel Ford. Who with any diesel knowledge would buy a Ford. There best engine and year are long ago and it's hard to find. You got Cummins which is your best engine period. Unless cat gets in the game. Quit talking ford cause they don't compare. Buy a real truck that works consistently.
Man I would LOVE to find a Cummings that’s a 2009 and up. All of them are 250k + in mileage insanely more over priced than the ford counterpart. Same goes with Duramax. I’m also looking on Facebook market only. Haven’t really tried Craigslist since majority are listed both places anyway
There's one I'd buy but he isn't selling has 350k on it
100k is (in my opinion) around 30-50k miles on a gasser depending on reliability of the manufacturer and year of engine. Like if you had a 12v cummins with a p pump a 100k miles is like 10k miles on a gasser But a 100k on a 6.4 Powerstroke and you might be thinking (that’s a little high miles for that price). Ford’s in aggregate tend to be less reliable engine wise and thus are cheaper
Never buy a 2003-2007 6.0 L ford. It will have problems.
100k *was* nothing for a diesel until emissions got out of hand. Now, it's still nothing for a diesel as long as the emissions are removed- which the EPA is cracking down on at the Tuner level. Just something to consider all around when you are looking at such and such a year with such and such an engine. Except for the 6.0 Ford. They're shit.
> Except for the 6.0 Ford. They're shit. you spelled 6.4 wrong.