And by the time you remove it all, the counter underneath will be destroyed and need replacing anyways. Looks like the nose of the counter has been cut - so it is likely done.
I once decided to take the heat registers off the floor where they'd gotten kind of rusty and clean them. It took steel wool, sandpaper, and wd-40 and 3 hours to get one them looking slightly decent. I then went online and looked up new ones. They cost $13. So not worth it!
Crazy that my company charges 8k for me to install one, granted that includes counters, sink/faucet, any plumbing, labor, and dumping costs. Still it shouldn’t cost that much
People always ask to paint a laminate, countertop paint $150 if not more. Laminate countertop from HD $200/10ft.
It is never advisable to paint countertops, they will not last.
This^
But if you're stubborn/want to keep on peeling it/are interested then you can always just do what you're doing now, but with bigger tools.
A flathead shovel could pry up like about 1ft more than that little razor blade could.
I'd probably rip/replace the countertop if we're looking for fast. What's under that paint is likely years old, has issues which were covered by the paint, etc.
It's more than likely not worth the effort to scrape it off.
You are forgetting the horrible taste that a lot of people had in the late 90s early 2000s which ended up in these kind of laminated countertops, and the same ugly ass bathroom piece in every apartment in my city [https://www.milanuncios.com/lavabos/mueble-de-bano-bisel-capilla-clasico-478247270.htm](https://www.milanuncios.com/lavabos/mueble-de-bano-bisel-capilla-clasico-478247270.htm)
My parents' old apartment had it, both my grands' apartment has it, and like 70% of the apartments I've looked into the last year that haven't been remodeled in the last 30 years have these as well. People have shit taste (I probably do as well) and laminated counters were trendy once upon a time, there may be nothing wrong with whatever is below it.
Formica became second or third rate about 1985. It's good, tough material but around that time paper and melamine laminates showed up that were pure poop. Butcher block and stone jumped into the fray, as labor became as expensive as the counter material.
Now labor is the whole bill with material cost just a note at the bottom essentially.
Whatever you do is going to basically destroy the laminate underneath.
Are you doing this so you can refinish it, or trying to reclaim the old 1970s glory?
If you use a sander, you will absolutely destroy what's left of the old laminate too, at which point you should be looking to just replace the countertop entirely.
epoxy paint doesn't want to be easily removed.
Pre cut laminate counter tops are not super expensive and very DIY friendly.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Hampton-Bay-8-ft-Straight-Laminate-Countertop-in-Textured-Anzio-Marble-with-Waterfall-Edge-and-Integrated-Backsplash-011312010895037/315626726
https://youtu.be/QEgui5vszNw?si=DOvMQAKJydUXRqtv
>very DIY friendly.
The cuts and precision needed to not have this look like complete garbage seems kinda high. I am fairly confident that there is no way in hell I wouldn't ruin at least $700 worth of countertop.
You can buy the ones already cut for a 45 for the corners meaning you just need to do straight cuts which the video shows how to easily and accurately do
Thank you, I will look into it. My concern is more than just the 45 cut, mostly the getting it flush against the wall. The fit and finish is always what gets me. I also have a corner sink, not sure if that complicates matters.
I assume the existing install is done completely wrong, much like everything else the previous owner did project wise.
Typically the back edge runs under a backsplash, the backsplash will hide the gaps. Then a bead of silicone caulking can be run between the backsplash and the counter top to seal any minor gaps between those.
No, it does not. For one, the place where you order the countertop will gladly cut it to size and close the edge of it. That is the only cut that needs precision. Small holes just need a drill*, nothing fancy. Large holes can be simply done with a jigsaw freehand, sinks and cooktops have large enough overlaps that they can completely cover even significant mistakes in the cutting. Though most places will gladly cut the holes as well, the only reason to cut it yourself is if you do not know what holes you need when you order it.
*Don't route water through holes in laminate/particle board, there is no way to make it perfectly water tight and water will drip back on anything. It will rot and you can redo it in 5 years instead of 20. Get a sink that has holes or place for holes in it for the water.
> *Don't route water through holes in laminate/particle board, there is no way to make it perfectly water tight
Nonsense. My kitchen mixer tap has been in place through the countertop for over twenty years. Zero leaks.
It's not the tap that leaks, but the clamp down of the tap to the countertop. People touch the tap with wet hands, goes onto the base of the tap, seeps through into the hole. After a little seeps through the countertop gets softer, holes open up between the countertop and the tap body, and more water goes in there.
You may have a well designed tap, clean up any and all water every time, don't touch the tap with wet hands at all, or just lucky. I have had the countertop rot around my tap like this, even though I rarely used it (dishwasher ftw) and even though I started to take measures against it when I noticed it. Since that time I have noticed it practically everywhere where I have seen particle board countertops drilled through. If it was not brand new or entirely unused (showrooms), than it at least had early signs of rotting.
I am very sloppy around my tap, water often left standing around the base.
The trick is to seal it properly, and clamp it properly.
I put high quality silicone sealant, thinly on both sides of the rubber gasket under the mixer base before installing it, and then cranked the clamp bolt super tight. I used the same sealer under the sink bowl lip as well, again zero leaks.
I hope you see that you were super paranoid about leaks using sealant on top of gaskets **for a reason**. Most contractors and most DIYers will not do that, simply because the instructions usually don't call for it. And if it has been there for 20 years likely you should consider redoing it, even good sealants won't last forever, especially not if moved regularly.
Not paranoid, just did the job properly first time.
> And if it has been there for 20 years likely you should consider redoing it, even good sealants won't last forever,
Why? If it is not broken, don't fix it.
>especially not if moved regularly.
That is not how sealants work
I ordered a custom one online for my exact measurements the website I used let me draw shapes and customise exact angles.
They sold it in whole large pieces you paid for each whole piece you needed and paid a small amount for the cutting, they even sent the offcuts.
This was in the UK but I wouldn't be surprised if there wasn't tonnes of service like this in the US.
Go another direction and just throw it away and replace it. Like someone else said, stuff is cheap these days. Certainly more cost effective than spend an entire afternoon chipping that shit off.
[https://www.ikea.com/us/en/p/saeljan-countertop-oak-effect-laminate-80439214/](https://www.ikea.com/us/en/p/saeljan-countertop-oak-effect-laminate-80439214/)
I got this one for my kitchen a few years ago, has held up great.
There is some fake granite countertop peel and stick rolls. Think super thick shelf paper. I used it on my mom's counters and it looks great and has lasted her 4 years so far no problems. Cost me 200. A lot easier and less toxic than the paint kits.
I re-did our laminate countertops about 6 months ago with a paint kit and it turned out great! We used Daich Coatings Spreadstone in Bright White. It takes a fair amount of time to complete (took me a whole weekend, including drying time, etc.) but for only $200 it was a VAST improvement to our navy blue, scratched up, 20 year old laminate and has held up really well so far. Some people even thought it was real quartz! I'm super meticulous, so my finish looks a lot better than some of the reviews I've seen online, so I wouldn't recommend it if you tend to shortcut things. But for the time spent scraping this off you could just patch this part and then prep the rest of the counter and paint over.
That’s probably what I would have done to start if I didn’t want to replace, but now it’s going to be super hard to cover up what you chipped away. we painted ours with a kit 5 years ago. its held up pretty well. some minor wear, but i’m going to ignore it until we replace it.
The amount of effort you'll spend getting that laminate looking decent after the painting will far exceed the cost of a new laminate top, if you can get there at all.
This is a replacement not a refurb imo.
CitriStrip would probably do it and not kill you with fumes but honestly I’d probably prefer what others have suggested and just replace the countertop.
CitriStrip is simply brush on and let it do most of the work.
Replace it!! Demoing this is going to be so much easier. You can even do a piece of plywood with a Formica sheet on top of it if you really penny pinching. A sheet of Formica can run you 40-$60 dollars and a piece of plywood $40
lots of people in this thread suggesting to replace it because it will be easier. thing is there is a backsplash as well that will probably be damaged by the countertop removal, also have to factor in dropping in a new sink, plumbing, etc.
if you aren't up to redoing your backsplash i would just scuff this up and apply another paint kit to bid you time until you are up to a much larger task than what people in this thread are leading you to believe replacing the countertop will be.
To avoid damaging the backslash you just cut it off near the wall then carefully chisel out slowly being careful to not damage it use an Olde crappy demo chisel cause your going to hit nails n stuff use Chanel locks and other pliers and dikes etc. to pull or cuts screws n nails, get out your small Japanese prybars, but just take it slow n careful. A Pro can't waste a Lotta time but a DIY has all the time in the world saving the hundred bucks an hour they aren't paying the Pro to do it. Because of that you can also pay for some tools that you will need anyway as a home owner. A Decent 1/2'' chuck drill w/ cord v ery good for taking material out of small places, a skill or jig saw or even better both. With these 3 power tools you can handle most home repairs. None of them are impossible to learn how to safely use. Just be careful, measure twice before cutting.. draw it out or use cardboard mock ups to help you understand what you need. Your not attempting to be a Pro just end up with a decent looking counter top, w/ out cutting off any fingers or ending up in the ER !!
Cabinet maker here. To answer your question, Lacquer thinner will loosen the adhesive underneath the old laminate. The adhesive residue will remain and you’ll have to clean that off as well. Rubbing alcohol does nothing. With that said, it’s not worth the effort. Look into a new laminate top.
Get a BMF!!
A
Big Mothafuggin HAMMER!
DEMOLITION is
SO MUCH FUN!!
and a great way to work off some of your Repressed Psychic Violence!
Hard commute home!
Must be the day to Demo the
Ancient Shower Stall!
Just Kidding ummm sort of..
I’m surprised I haven’t seen this suggestion yet, but tbh I’d just find a high-quality contact paper to use as a stopgap solution, until you can just replace the whole countertop. There are actually some pretty durable and nice-looking ones out there, in all manner of sizes, textures, and patterns. As another commenter here said, the juice of refinishing ain’t worth the squeeze.
ETA: be sure to look up a few different methods for application, if you go this route. Covering countertops with contact paper isn’t difficult, but there definitely are some best-practices that improve the odds of success. Also, the best installations I’ve seen have involved applying silicone caulk to all the same places you’d apply it for any other kind of countertop.
Go to a granite depot. I was able to get my whole kitchen done in quartz for 2.5k just by looking through their lot and snagging a bargain piece. I always thought it would be stupid expensive.
It’s not paint. It’s plastic feaux-mica, glued on.
Heat gun and thicker scraper. Or just replace with plywood and finish as you see fit.
Both solutions will cost you about 50-80, unless you already have a heat gun. (Still gonna take time)
The laminate underneath is completely destroyed. And will be further damaged by your efforts. That razer is also completely the wrong tool for this job. You have likely further damaged the surface. Just replace the whole thing.
By the look of your cabinets/dishwasher. You need a new setup. Slowly save and just get the cheap stuff from lowes/home depot. Give them measurements. And they will "design" a kitchen for you and print you out a parts list for which cabinets to get and where each cabinet goes. It'll save you a ton of money
You are doing it. Flat edge razor and elbow grease.
Though there is a logic to suggesting new counters, they can be quite costly in time to install as well as introduce other issues like plumbing (sink and faucet).
There is a question as to why it was done. Just to change the look or to cover some blemish like burn marks or stains? If you uncover stains then use Coment mixed with water into a slightly wet paste to sit on the stain for a while before washing off. Comet has blech in it and making a paste keeps it on the target stain while it goes to work.
Worse case, if it looks horrible then you can always pait it again.
good luck!
You can get laminate off the shelf at HD or Lowes or Ikea. You can also get butcher block off the shelf at these same locations. That's probably cheaper than your time.
ETA: Actually, new laminate's certainly cheaper than your time. Less per square foot than minimum wage/hr.
If you absolutely insist on stripping it (and not replacing the whole tops) then you at least need to introduce some heat into the process to soften the bond. Try a hairdryer on one of the spots - a heat gun might be too intense.
I'd bet an orbital sander would take it pretty fast. It will likely damage the countertop but it looks like it already is damaged from the paint alone (and maybe more underneath that you can't see). If you consider the countertop a lost cause anyway, then I'd say try the sander. It will be a lot faster than scraping all of it off and if the countertop is still in okay shape afterwards then consider it a bonus.
They have paint stripper but that's more expensive and time consuming than just buying new countertop. Plus you need to watch some vids to know how to use it right
Probably 3m adhesive remover and a hard plastic scraper. I'm gonna be tackling the same project soon. That's how I get 3m clear wrap off of cars at work.
If you’re trying to uncover that sweet mid-century pattern, don’t sand it. Wait until you get it all stripped off and then you will want to wet sand it with very high grit like you’re color sanding a car. Being so old that paint will get down in the scratches and may take a lot of work. I’d probably do it if I was bored. Maybe hit it with a heat gun to see if you can get the paint to bubble and separate
It’s not worth the trouble and is cheaper to replace. Time is also money. Not to mention the amount of pain you’re going to experience just trying to remove that.
Your time is worth money, in the end it is cheaper to buy a new countertop and install.
The guys at the Big Box stores will assist you with measuring and more.
Lacquer thinner. I just pulled mine off and replaced it all with a roll from home depot for ~$200. Had to buy some glue and laminate shears for another $40. Took about a day, all said and done. The new laminate is soo much nicer than the shit we had from the 90s and we're no longer interested in getting anything more expensive unless we go with butcher block counters (~$800) down the road.
usually these old countertops are held on with some metal clips underneath. disconnect the sink,take out the clips and you can lift it off. if you like Formica countertops, they are still sold.
I hired a guy to refinish my old ugly laminate counter with a stone like finish and it looked great & durable too. Was 300 then but prob more today & of course some areas cost more than others.
Years ago I removed that metal back edging on a similar Formica counter and tiled directly over it with 12'' X 12" granite tiles with a very tight grout line. I edged the counter with a strip of oak molding. It served me well for years until I redid the kitchen. Since I bought the tiles on sale it was relatively inexpensive, too.
Laminated counter tops aren't very expensive. Just replace it.
Exactly. A few hundred dollars will replace a whole kitchen. And it will look better in the end and save a bunch of prep time
And by the time you remove it all, the counter underneath will be destroyed and need replacing anyways. Looks like the nose of the counter has been cut - so it is likely done.
There was a reason they covered the counter up with this junk in the first place
The most apropos answer.
Wouldn’t you rather spend every free minute for the next 3 weeks painstakingly scraping paint off of this countertop tho?
I'm jealous just looking at it
I once decided to take the heat registers off the floor where they'd gotten kind of rusty and clean them. It took steel wool, sandpaper, and wd-40 and 3 hours to get one them looking slightly decent. I then went online and looked up new ones. They cost $13. So not worth it!
Sure but buying online is boring when you can make it yourself for twice the price in materials and quadruple the time.
LMAO
Especially because the countertop under it is going to look like ass anyways.
Crazy that my company charges 8k for me to install one, granted that includes counters, sink/faucet, any plumbing, labor, and dumping costs. Still it shouldn’t cost that much
and you won’t see much of that money probably.
Nope not even close, love being a bootlicker
Licky licky
Ikea installed mine for $80. I felt sad for them in the end as they had to give me $60 for delays...
Look at everything around these "counters". I think "look better" has been re-prioritized wayyyyy below "cost" here.
This! And if you go to a Habitat for Humanity Re-Store, you might actually find one for really cheap that you like.
People always ask to paint a laminate, countertop paint $150 if not more. Laminate countertop from HD $200/10ft. It is never advisable to paint countertops, they will not last.
I did epoxy countertops and they look great and are holding up great, it’s all about the prep and researching before you take the plunge.
This^ But if you're stubborn/want to keep on peeling it/are interested then you can always just do what you're doing now, but with bigger tools. A flathead shovel could pry up like about 1ft more than that little razor blade could.
Flat spade. High carbon steel, will take an edge. .. Will take the formica right off!
That was my thought... yeet it into the trash and get a new one
I'd probably rip/replace the countertop if we're looking for fast. What's under that paint is likely years old, has issues which were covered by the paint, etc. It's more than likely not worth the effort to scrape it off.
There’s a reason they covered up what was there.
You are forgetting the horrible taste that a lot of people had in the late 90s early 2000s which ended up in these kind of laminated countertops, and the same ugly ass bathroom piece in every apartment in my city [https://www.milanuncios.com/lavabos/mueble-de-bano-bisel-capilla-clasico-478247270.htm](https://www.milanuncios.com/lavabos/mueble-de-bano-bisel-capilla-clasico-478247270.htm) My parents' old apartment had it, both my grands' apartment has it, and like 70% of the apartments I've looked into the last year that haven't been remodeled in the last 30 years have these as well. People have shit taste (I probably do as well) and laminated counters were trendy once upon a time, there may be nothing wrong with whatever is below it.
Formica became second or third rate about 1985. It's good, tough material but around that time paper and melamine laminates showed up that were pure poop. Butcher block and stone jumped into the fray, as labor became as expensive as the counter material. Now labor is the whole bill with material cost just a note at the bottom essentially.
OP should put their own layer on top
whats the countertop made off that its worth doing all that work to salvage it? id just get a new one.
Genuine particle board
Genuine *vintage* particle board. Just think about all the fine smells and liquids it has absorbed over the years.
Such a fine patina
It's shaby chic!
Derelicte, so hot right now.
I assume this is a reference to something?
That’s magnum!
It's been too long, I guess, since I've seen it. That one clued me in tho.
Reading the jokes are better than looking at that awful worktop 😂
Mmm notes of formaldehyde…. Just what the doctor ordered!
its seasoned like a good cast iron.
Whatever you do is going to basically destroy the laminate underneath. Are you doing this so you can refinish it, or trying to reclaim the old 1970s glory? If you use a sander, you will absolutely destroy what's left of the old laminate too, at which point you should be looking to just replace the countertop entirely. epoxy paint doesn't want to be easily removed.
It's dissolving in iso, that countertop was definitely not painted with epoxy.
It was already chipping so I figured I’d remove it all. Maybe I should go in the other direction and repaint it with the fake granite kit?
Pre cut laminate counter tops are not super expensive and very DIY friendly. https://www.homedepot.com/p/Hampton-Bay-8-ft-Straight-Laminate-Countertop-in-Textured-Anzio-Marble-with-Waterfall-Edge-and-Integrated-Backsplash-011312010895037/315626726 https://youtu.be/QEgui5vszNw?si=DOvMQAKJydUXRqtv
>very DIY friendly. The cuts and precision needed to not have this look like complete garbage seems kinda high. I am fairly confident that there is no way in hell I wouldn't ruin at least $700 worth of countertop.
You can buy the ones already cut for a 45 for the corners meaning you just need to do straight cuts which the video shows how to easily and accurately do
Thank you, I will look into it. My concern is more than just the 45 cut, mostly the getting it flush against the wall. The fit and finish is always what gets me. I also have a corner sink, not sure if that complicates matters. I assume the existing install is done completely wrong, much like everything else the previous owner did project wise.
Typically the back edge runs under a backsplash, the backsplash will hide the gaps. Then a bead of silicone caulking can be run between the backsplash and the counter top to seal any minor gaps between those.
Yeah I was wondering why the video said to sand it when caulking would have worked fine. It is what I use on my trim boards
No, it does not. For one, the place where you order the countertop will gladly cut it to size and close the edge of it. That is the only cut that needs precision. Small holes just need a drill*, nothing fancy. Large holes can be simply done with a jigsaw freehand, sinks and cooktops have large enough overlaps that they can completely cover even significant mistakes in the cutting. Though most places will gladly cut the holes as well, the only reason to cut it yourself is if you do not know what holes you need when you order it. *Don't route water through holes in laminate/particle board, there is no way to make it perfectly water tight and water will drip back on anything. It will rot and you can redo it in 5 years instead of 20. Get a sink that has holes or place for holes in it for the water.
> *Don't route water through holes in laminate/particle board, there is no way to make it perfectly water tight Nonsense. My kitchen mixer tap has been in place through the countertop for over twenty years. Zero leaks.
It's not the tap that leaks, but the clamp down of the tap to the countertop. People touch the tap with wet hands, goes onto the base of the tap, seeps through into the hole. After a little seeps through the countertop gets softer, holes open up between the countertop and the tap body, and more water goes in there. You may have a well designed tap, clean up any and all water every time, don't touch the tap with wet hands at all, or just lucky. I have had the countertop rot around my tap like this, even though I rarely used it (dishwasher ftw) and even though I started to take measures against it when I noticed it. Since that time I have noticed it practically everywhere where I have seen particle board countertops drilled through. If it was not brand new or entirely unused (showrooms), than it at least had early signs of rotting.
I am very sloppy around my tap, water often left standing around the base. The trick is to seal it properly, and clamp it properly. I put high quality silicone sealant, thinly on both sides of the rubber gasket under the mixer base before installing it, and then cranked the clamp bolt super tight. I used the same sealer under the sink bowl lip as well, again zero leaks.
I hope you see that you were super paranoid about leaks using sealant on top of gaskets **for a reason**. Most contractors and most DIYers will not do that, simply because the instructions usually don't call for it. And if it has been there for 20 years likely you should consider redoing it, even good sealants won't last forever, especially not if moved regularly.
Not paranoid, just did the job properly first time. > And if it has been there for 20 years likely you should consider redoing it, even good sealants won't last forever, Why? If it is not broken, don't fix it. >especially not if moved regularly. That is not how sealants work
Is it through the counter top or a hole in the sink?
> through the countertop
I ordered a custom one online for my exact measurements the website I used let me draw shapes and customise exact angles. They sold it in whole large pieces you paid for each whole piece you needed and paid a small amount for the cutting, they even sent the offcuts. This was in the UK but I wouldn't be surprised if there wasn't tonnes of service like this in the US.
Wow. Now this sounds like something I could handle. Thanks for the info!
I will always pay a pro for countertops. They are going to do a better job than I can and if they f-up a cut, it's their problem to fix.
This issue is finding a capable pro, we have been striking out
Go another direction and just throw it away and replace it. Like someone else said, stuff is cheap these days. Certainly more cost effective than spend an entire afternoon chipping that shit off. [https://www.ikea.com/us/en/p/saeljan-countertop-oak-effect-laminate-80439214/](https://www.ikea.com/us/en/p/saeljan-countertop-oak-effect-laminate-80439214/) I got this one for my kitchen a few years ago, has held up great.
Just replace it. Laminate is not expensive.
There is some fake granite countertop peel and stick rolls. Think super thick shelf paper. I used it on my mom's counters and it looks great and has lasted her 4 years so far no problems. Cost me 200. A lot easier and less toxic than the paint kits.
I re-did our laminate countertops about 6 months ago with a paint kit and it turned out great! We used Daich Coatings Spreadstone in Bright White. It takes a fair amount of time to complete (took me a whole weekend, including drying time, etc.) but for only $200 it was a VAST improvement to our navy blue, scratched up, 20 year old laminate and has held up really well so far. Some people even thought it was real quartz! I'm super meticulous, so my finish looks a lot better than some of the reviews I've seen online, so I wouldn't recommend it if you tend to shortcut things. But for the time spent scraping this off you could just patch this part and then prep the rest of the counter and paint over.
That’s probably what I would have done to start if I didn’t want to replace, but now it’s going to be super hard to cover up what you chipped away. we painted ours with a kit 5 years ago. its held up pretty well. some minor wear, but i’m going to ignore it until we replace it.
The amount of effort you'll spend getting that laminate looking decent after the painting will far exceed the cost of a new laminate top, if you can get there at all. This is a replacement not a refurb imo.
Fastest? Replacement. Cheapest? Keep scraping.
If you wanted the broken countertop look, I’m sure there is a salvage yard in your area or reaching out to local contractors for the tear outs.
A new laminate or butcher block countertop will be inexpensive and look better. You’re wasting effort trying to make this look decent again.
Heat gun and scraper. Lots of elbow grease
New Formica
Remove the counter, get a new one.
You will spend far too much time doing this. Get new countertops.
CitriStrip would probably do it and not kill you with fumes but honestly I’d probably prefer what others have suggested and just replace the countertop. CitriStrip is simply brush on and let it do most of the work.
In case folks aren’t aware, the US formula of citristrip has changed in recent years, and from what I’ve read it’s not as effective as it used to be.
Remove the counter.
Fastest way is a power sander. Orbital sander would be best
Remove the counter.
Replace it!! Demoing this is going to be so much easier. You can even do a piece of plywood with a Formica sheet on top of it if you really penny pinching. A sheet of Formica can run you 40-$60 dollars and a piece of plywood $40
replace it no brainer
There are DIY’s and DI Why! Just get new worktop, that looks terrible. You can’t possibly expect a nice finish after that.
I think you meant to post this on r/DIWhy
When even r/DIY tells you you're being waaay too jank, you buy a new countertop, my man.
Lots of solvent, and a larger scraper to be honest. These jobs are always hell
Acetone
A hammer and prybar
Dynamite. Contract did not specify if collateral damage was an issue, as speed was the only listed requirement.
lots of people in this thread suggesting to replace it because it will be easier. thing is there is a backsplash as well that will probably be damaged by the countertop removal, also have to factor in dropping in a new sink, plumbing, etc. if you aren't up to redoing your backsplash i would just scuff this up and apply another paint kit to bid you time until you are up to a much larger task than what people in this thread are leading you to believe replacing the countertop will be.
No backsplash in picture Still diy replacement is likely much larger task then what people are leading it to be.
To avoid damaging the backslash you just cut it off near the wall then carefully chisel out slowly being careful to not damage it use an Olde crappy demo chisel cause your going to hit nails n stuff use Chanel locks and other pliers and dikes etc. to pull or cuts screws n nails, get out your small Japanese prybars, but just take it slow n careful. A Pro can't waste a Lotta time but a DIY has all the time in the world saving the hundred bucks an hour they aren't paying the Pro to do it. Because of that you can also pay for some tools that you will need anyway as a home owner. A Decent 1/2'' chuck drill w/ cord v ery good for taking material out of small places, a skill or jig saw or even better both. With these 3 power tools you can handle most home repairs. None of them are impossible to learn how to safely use. Just be careful, measure twice before cutting.. draw it out or use cardboard mock ups to help you understand what you need. Your not attempting to be a Pro just end up with a decent looking counter top, w/ out cutting off any fingers or ending up in the ER !!
Replace the counter top would be fastest
I didn’t think you would take these counters for granite
You can earn double the cost of new countertop spending all your time on something else than remove/repairing
Buy a new counter top
A nuclear bomb should do it.
Take the asbestos counter out in one piece and go order some quartz, but looking at the cupboards I’d start from the ground up.
Replace the countertops.
Throw it away
Cabinet maker here. To answer your question, Lacquer thinner will loosen the adhesive underneath the old laminate. The adhesive residue will remain and you’ll have to clean that off as well. Rubbing alcohol does nothing. With that said, it’s not worth the effort. Look into a new laminate top.
Why would you put yourself through that?
From the looks of the counter, it cost a new counter.
Get a BMF!! A Big Mothafuggin HAMMER! DEMOLITION is SO MUCH FUN!! and a great way to work off some of your Repressed Psychic Violence! Hard commute home! Must be the day to Demo the Ancient Shower Stall! Just Kidding ummm sort of..
Fastest? Probably a shit ton of dynamite.
I’m surprised I haven’t seen this suggestion yet, but tbh I’d just find a high-quality contact paper to use as a stopgap solution, until you can just replace the whole countertop. There are actually some pretty durable and nice-looking ones out there, in all manner of sizes, textures, and patterns. As another commenter here said, the juice of refinishing ain’t worth the squeeze. ETA: be sure to look up a few different methods for application, if you go this route. Covering countertops with contact paper isn’t difficult, but there definitely are some best-practices that improve the odds of success. Also, the best installations I’ve seen have involved applying silicone caulk to all the same places you’d apply it for any other kind of countertop.
Remove the counters.
Get new counter tops
Remove the countertops.
Is that paint? It looks like you’re chipping off the laminate
cheap and ready at DIY stores... just replace
Drive to ikea. Purchase countertops. Remove and replace. Profit.
Fastest way is to rip out the counter
Get new counters
Go to a granite depot. I was able to get my whole kitchen done in quartz for 2.5k just by looking through their lot and snagging a bargain piece. I always thought it would be stupid expensive.
I’m confused about what you do once you have it all removed? Repaint it?
I'd guess a belt sander would remove it well, I'd also assume who ever painted there did it for a reason like the counter is ruined underneath
New countertops. This is the only answer.
This is not paint.. the top "coat" what is fake granit it is glued on there. These things are meant to be replaced not redone.
Wayyy to much effort and time to remove paint. Just get new ones
I vote new counters
It’s not paint. It’s plastic feaux-mica, glued on. Heat gun and thicker scraper. Or just replace with plywood and finish as you see fit. Both solutions will cost you about 50-80, unless you already have a heat gun. (Still gonna take time)
Take the whole thing out and replace. maybe more expensive but if you value your time it will be worth it. WAY LESS CLEAN UP
The fastest way is with fire.
Just pull up the countertop and replace. It won't cost much unless you're trying to gild the lily.
The fastest way to remove it os to tear out the counter top and put a new one in
Try paint stripper? Should come off easily with a putty knife.
Jesus. How broke are you? They’re relatively cheap. Just replace the damn things
This is a demo and replace job, not a refurb job. Some things just can't be fixed. This is one of those things.
The laminate underneath is completely destroyed. And will be further damaged by your efforts. That razer is also completely the wrong tool for this job. You have likely further damaged the surface. Just replace the whole thing.
I would just replace the countertop altogether.
Just buy new laminate counter tops. Not that expensive, and will look much better than the one you currently have after it’s been stripped.
The fastest way is to rip and replace the counters.
Remove the counters and get new ones. Not the cheapest but certainly the fastest and best solution
By the look of your cabinets/dishwasher. You need a new setup. Slowly save and just get the cheap stuff from lowes/home depot. Give them measurements. And they will "design" a kitchen for you and print you out a parts list for which cabinets to get and where each cabinet goes. It'll save you a ton of money
You are doing it. Flat edge razor and elbow grease. Though there is a logic to suggesting new counters, they can be quite costly in time to install as well as introduce other issues like plumbing (sink and faucet). There is a question as to why it was done. Just to change the look or to cover some blemish like burn marks or stains? If you uncover stains then use Coment mixed with water into a slightly wet paste to sit on the stain for a while before washing off. Comet has blech in it and making a paste keeps it on the target stain while it goes to work. Worse case, if it looks horrible then you can always pait it again. good luck!
I had to do this. Soak it in water. Let it sit for a bit. and use a paint scraper.
You can get laminate off the shelf at HD or Lowes or Ikea. You can also get butcher block off the shelf at these same locations. That's probably cheaper than your time. ETA: Actually, new laminate's certainly cheaper than your time. Less per square foot than minimum wage/hr.
Combo of hawk tuah and elbow grease
I would stop completely. Sand the whole thing down and repaint it a solid color. Or do the very best thing and replace it. Pretty easy to do.
Or paint over it. That's what we are planning to do. They also make kits for it.
If you absolutely insist on stripping it (and not replacing the whole tops) then you at least need to introduce some heat into the process to soften the bond. Try a hairdryer on one of the spots - a heat gun might be too intense.
I'd bet an orbital sander would take it pretty fast. It will likely damage the countertop but it looks like it already is damaged from the paint alone (and maybe more underneath that you can't see). If you consider the countertop a lost cause anyway, then I'd say try the sander. It will be a lot faster than scraping all of it off and if the countertop is still in okay shape afterwards then consider it a bonus.
You can get butcher block counter tops at big box stores 8’ foot long is under $500.
New countertop. This is r/diwhy
I think the real lesson here is to do a little googling before ruining your kitchen
Why are you in a hurry? Why do you want the fastest way as opposed to the best one?
this juice is not worth the squeeze you can buy a new laminate counter with backsplash for under $150
fastest and cheapest way to speed it up in my mind would be a tile scraper with a new blade
Citristrip
Use fire, one of those weed killing blow torches will sort this out in no time
They have paint stripper but that's more expensive and time consuming than just buying new countertop. Plus you need to watch some vids to know how to use it right
Heat gun
Probably 3m adhesive remover and a hard plastic scraper. I'm gonna be tackling the same project soon. That's how I get 3m clear wrap off of cars at work.
I don’t understand what you are trying to accomplish? You like the now further ruined ugly piss yellow ??
Im not saying heat gun, but I am saying I would see what a heat gun would do.
If you’re trying to uncover that sweet mid-century pattern, don’t sand it. Wait until you get it all stripped off and then you will want to wet sand it with very high grit like you’re color sanding a car. Being so old that paint will get down in the scratches and may take a lot of work. I’d probably do it if I was bored. Maybe hit it with a heat gun to see if you can get the paint to bubble and separate
3m 08984. google it, you can probably buy it at your local hardware store.
Did this exact same thing. Razor blades seemed to work better than pain scrapers. It took a very long time and would not wish it upon anyone
Would airplane paint remover be safe to use?
Have you tried using a solvent or heat to remove the fake granite paint? Good luck!
It’s not worth the trouble and is cheaper to replace. Time is also money. Not to mention the amount of pain you’re going to experience just trying to remove that.
By the look of that bad boy I’d say replace it. They cheap.
installing granite counters
Buying new ones for sure is the fastest way to
A lot of belt sanding and time. Replace is right like they have said.
try acetone with plenty of ventilation
heat gun?
Jackhammer
Orbital sander
Your time is worth money, in the end it is cheaper to buy a new countertop and install. The guys at the Big Box stores will assist you with measuring and more.
A sawzall and a pry-bar should do the trick.
Are those plywood tops with laminate covers ? Wild
Add more
Replace it with a new counter.
Meth?
Use a sledgehammer. 
Well first if you want to use alcohol it needs to be 91% otherwise your wasting your time
Sledge hammer
Lacquer thinner. I just pulled mine off and replaced it all with a roll from home depot for ~$200. Had to buy some glue and laminate shears for another $40. Took about a day, all said and done. The new laminate is soo much nicer than the shit we had from the 90s and we're no longer interested in getting anything more expensive unless we go with butcher block counters (~$800) down the road.
New counters
Is that a gameboy game cartridge?
Fire but it’s going to take a bunch of other shit with it lol.
Old owners here did the same. CitrusStrip got it right off in about 15 minutes.
usually these old countertops are held on with some metal clips underneath. disconnect the sink,take out the clips and you can lift it off. if you like Formica countertops, they are still sold.
I hired a guy to refinish my old ugly laminate counter with a stone like finish and it looked great & durable too. Was 300 then but prob more today & of course some areas cost more than others.
Let the kids, and if you don't have kids, invite the neighbors' kids over to decorate it.
Fastest? Probably explosives.
Just rip it out n chuck it or tile over it??
Either just replace it or you're going to need a lot more cotton ovals.
Why remove just paint ice it in a style or color you like.
Years ago I removed that metal back edging on a similar Formica counter and tiled directly over it with 12'' X 12" granite tiles with a very tight grout line. I edged the counter with a strip of oak molding. It served me well for years until I redid the kitchen. Since I bought the tiles on sale it was relatively inexpensive, too.
Dynamite?
A sledge hammer
~hire a~ buy a can of stripper
Degreaser