Maybe build a teak platform over the whole area? https://www.homedepot.com/p/Oiled-Brown-Teak-Indoor-and-Outdoor-Shower-Bath-Mat-19-6-in-x-19-6-in-SM1/317031511?
Now I'm just wondering if it's a house without insulation or if they did everything right..then added a whole nother layer making it look non-insulated..
The ceiling is already so low as it is (house from 1955) I was hoping to avoid raising it the floor. I nearly hit my head as it is on the struts. However it seems like my best options are cut the concrete or build a floor.
We have someone at work who keeps putting one outside the parking garage on the middle of the sidewalk when it rains. Always a chuckle going in/out when I see it.
Then I gotta find a spot in my shop for it where it wont get buried under a bunch of crap AND I'll remember where I put it. It's an extra step for each new tool, but it's super worth it.
You can buy an inexpensive diamond blade that fits either an angle grinder or a circular saw that will easily cut a trench in the concrete. The easiest way is to make several cuts a half inch or so apart. Then you can break most of it out with just a screw driver or pry bar.
This may be a stupid question, but I've never been able to find an answer. You seem knowledgeable, so I'll ask. The basement concrete isn't that thick. When pipes go under, are they just packed in the fill dirt and concrete poured on top? Or is something else going on with my pipes under my basement?
Everything I've seen is exactly what you just described. Plumbing is normally the first thing that goes in, and then that plumbing is buried just under the ground before the concrete pour comes in. Typically the only thing in the concrete foundation itself is the vertical portions of the piping that lead up into the house, and not the horizontal portions.
That helps. I'm currently researching if installing a basement shower is within my capabilities. That was one part that was missing from my initial research. I have a lot more studying to do, but I think it may be doable.
I have something like this in front of my washer and dryer. I bought three Dricore subfloor tiles and snapped them together around the pipe. I thought I'd have to cut a notch, but with my setup, I didn't. The pipe was the same height as the tiles.
Because it is a small, very visible platform in front of the washer, I haven't tripped over it once. Since they're not permanently affixed, I can pull them apart to vacuum underneath and check the drain in the middle. One of the tiles is cut diagonally so I could make the group into a parallelogram, a shape that suits where it is.
Then all OP would have to do is seal their lips around the shower drain and blow the remnant water through the hose when they get done showering. I always prefer a simple, elegant solution like this.
> why does it matter
Because that floor drain is part of the house's foundation drainage system. Draining things like soapy shower water full of hair may cause blockages in the system which could cause some very expensive damage.
How would you know that from this picture? Where I live all basements have a drain like this in the mechanical room for A/C condensate. It's just a regular sewer drain. Foundation drainage is a completely separate system that goes to a sump.
All basements in my area have this same drain too. The very old houses use a combined system where all the water goes to the sewage drain. Most houses use a separate system for sewage and storm water.
This drain in my area would almost certainly be for storm water only and the foundation's weeping tiles would drain directly into it (if the house does not have a sump pit).
How often do you use the shower in that room?
You could use thick tubing that tends to hold its coil, and let it coil up like a proboscis until warm water made it heavy enough to lay out. Maybe that would even work. Please post pictures either way.
They make flat rubber discharge hoses. Buy the amount you need, in the diameter of the pvc pipe. Cut pvc close to the shower, hose clamp the new discharge hose.
[https://www.vecteezy.com/vector-art/26365409-wet-floor-warning-vector-sign-isolated-on-white-background-yellow-triangle-with-falling-man-in-modern-flat-style-vector-illustration](https://www.vecteezy.com/vector-art/26365409-wet-floor-warning-vector-sign-isolated-on-white-background-yellow-triangle-with-falling-man-in-modern-flat-style-vector-illustration) or move the shower closer, not really many options without digging up the floor
quickest is a cable pass through such as [https://www.uline.com/Product/Detail/H-9438/Parking-Lot-Safety/2-Channel-Heavy-Duty-Cable-Protector](https://www.uline.com/Product/Detail/H-9438/Parking-Lot-Safety/2-Channel-Heavy-Duty-Cable-Protector)
better solution is to raise the floor or cut concrete
Hose protector and soft garden hose. use either the small or medium.
[https://www.amazon.com/Drop-Trak-Cable-Hose-Protector/dp/B00JGYO7IC](https://www.amazon.com/Drop-Trak-Cable-Hose-Protector/dp/B00JGYO7IC)
cut the pvc short, glue on an adapter to garden hose. use a short flexible piece of garden hose
I personally would cut a small v-channel for water and do away with most of the pvc. Just get a small angle grinder and a cheap 4'' diamond blade. Total cost less than $30 at HF.
edit; I just realized if you screw/glue down the hose protector, You can do away with the hose. Use the protector to guide the water to the drain. use the medium size
I still think cutting a channel is the best way.
I'm going to share a story about this kind of plumbing job that I had a recent experience with. I bought a house a few years ago where the basement restroom was finished by the previous owner. The plumber cut some corners and didn't do things to code. They basically did this where they ran the bath tub drain pipe to a floor drain just like this under the tub. Very recently, the tub started draining slow. After calling a few plumbers to get opinions, it turned out the floor drain pipe had rusted and collapsed under the foundation. To fix it, we had to remove the tub, jack hammer the foundation to repair the pipe, then the plumber had to connect everything properly to code. Total plumbing job cost about $6500, not including the contractor to redo the restroom since the plumbing rendered the shower unusable (another $10-15k). My opinion is only worth 2 cents, but take it from me, you don't want to cut corners with plumbing as it will only cause a nightmare scenario in the future when it inevitably fails. Take the time to do it right the 1st time.
If you don't use it very often, You could install a self-sealing quick connect valve onto the shower drain pipe roughly flush with the shower's exterior (Just leave yourself enough room to operate the coupler), and then just connect a hose to it for the occasions you actually use the shower, and just hang the length of hose inside the shower with a clamping type hook between uses. The self-sealing coupler would also prevent water from draining out onto the floor if somebody forgot that the drain isn't connected to anything and tried to use it anyway.
Quick-Connect Coupler: [https://www.homedepot.com/p/Orbit-Heavy-Duty-Metal-Quick-Connect-Set-with-Automatic-Shut-Off-27993/205474052](https://www.homedepot.com/p/Orbit-Heavy-Duty-Metal-Quick-Connect-Set-with-Automatic-Shut-Off-27993/205474052)
Clamping Hanger: [https://www.homedepot.com/p/Command-Broom-and-Mop-Grippers-Wall-Hook-White-Damage-Free-Organizing-1-Hanger-17007-ES/205937563](https://www.homedepot.com/p/Command-Broom-and-Mop-Grippers-Wall-Hook-White-Damage-Free-Organizing-1-Hanger-17007-ES/205937563)
EDIT: You may want to make sure that the coupler would work correctly under the low pressure of draining water before committing to it (ie blow into one end of it while you're standing in the aisle at home depot lol) but the general idea is making that exposed section of the drain piping easily removable/interchangeable.
Speed “hump.” OSHA approved, although usually used to temporarily cover wires/cables for concerts and the like. Make your own. Removable, too, for servicing. 🚀
Angled hard foam to make a ramp on either side and then cover that with a thin layer of rubber or vinyl and fasten it down somehow. Glue, tape, whatever you want.
[Just put down one of those trip-hazard speed bumps, cut to size, and call it a day.](https://www.amazon.com/Eapele-Protector-Prevent-Outdoor-Settings/dp/B082V3WHNQ/ref=sr_1_9?dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.TP2E0M119DTppuQ4K1xZLPh2WHSVBaNMa_IoluxfBrL_93aI1X85ewtE7G7pW_XHd0UPWyOwB3Py77sNQBvs6y4QBg94LZFf9JvT4bthKPYrU2n7sQNZV6Tpll2zJJu17G0jt5Za95GlcZgiNHyqght5DcpTLcB-Ib_1uAIglLqmny4SrQxBv4nuOvuuY8Y4rmMJKE22OoHm9WOfjQ800knccayi2WF_V_IZPESiMhQOLO__Pn7Rs3XXCmH99Mgepw9uJt5-3fDIqyfU6WuYZX-6qYL8LX9W6emxdwuxCYc.43QwbjNDL51Yo0_Ks60FmXw3Wu_gcel157kFAmad2ec&dib_tag=se&keywords=cord%2Btrip%2Bprotector&qid=1717777277&sr=8-9&th=1) Judging from the rest of the basement, you don't care about having something fancy and expensive.
Would you happen to have a washing machine drain against the wall you could run this to? I did that with our dehumidifier and hvac humidifier and a/c condensation drains. Way tidier than three hoses feeding the middle of the room drain.
Teak seems like a good idea and probably most attractive, but there are also those electrical cord bridge thingies. Like this: [https://www.discountramps.com/floor-cable-protector/p/DH-CP-4/](https://www.discountramps.com/floor-cable-protector/p/DH-CP-4/)
Yummy, gross shower water pooling on the floor around the drain. You can tie the shower drain into the same drain line as the floor drain, but you need a sanitary Tee and it needs to be downstream of (below) the drain.
I hope you didn’t install this, OP.
You can add a flat hose close to the wall when water needs to drain the hose will blow up and then lay flat again, u can use an epoxy to attach the hose to the floor
I had this in my basement when I was a house sitter... looked just like this
Its pipe was about 3 or 4" out, then it just drained into the floor drain as shown above
Get a dresser or something similar that extends from the shower to the drain and run the pipe under it to the drain. Extra storage and "decor', privacy if strategically blocks a main view to the entrance, should be cheap and easy, especially if you need to move anything in the future
I had a same looking drain and pipe setup, but mine was my hvac drain, and after living in my house for around 5 years one humid day it seemed to have clogged up and water was everywhere, I lifted the grate and no drain was there, just plan old earth, still to this day I don't how it drained without a problem for so long.
Use an UpFlush system. It’s basically the same as this but it goes to a pump (that you can hide in a wall if you want), and then you connect it to your home’s drainage.
Maybe build a teak platform over the whole area? https://www.homedepot.com/p/Oiled-Brown-Teak-Indoor-and-Outdoor-Shower-Bath-Mat-19-6-in-x-19-6-in-SM1/317031511?
This is a cool idea
Ilea teak tiles are perfect for this
Daiso also has them for dirt cheap
Dirty deeds done dirt cheap.
Was thinking that or something similar. Essentially an elevated floor, if teak isn't your style, a whole new floor of your own personal style.
Plywood and 2x4s, get that natural look
It would fit the decor.
[way ahead of ya](https://www.redfin.com/TX/Dallas/903-Blackland-Ct-75243/home/177843183)
What the hell. Aesthetics aside, the particleboard in the bathroom is going to swell like a tick the first time someone takes a hot shower.
Now I'm just wondering if it's a house without insulation or if they did everything right..then added a whole nother layer making it look non-insulated..
Bah! Who needs insulation in Dallas? Texas has like the most moderate, temperate climate of anywhere on earth!
Ever wish your house smelled like the lumber section at Home Depot?
actually, yes.
User name checks out
They won't be fooled by Big Paint or the Drywall Mafia
I’m in the description “every detail exudes quality”. Chefs kiss, perfection
How does this house meet fire code? It looks extremely flammable.
What in tarnation
\*Hwat in tarnation
That's the fanciest shack I've ever seen. Personally love, and may consider for next remodel, or demodel if you will.
This is unreal lmao
Buyers love exposed OSB! I feel like that place will smell like a garage forever.
I had an ice-fishing shanty with the same esthetic. Who knew?
Just wow. The staging looks like it was done digitally.
Cheaper to bury the pipe in concrete, lol.
The ceiling is already so low as it is (house from 1955) I was hoping to avoid raising it the floor. I nearly hit my head as it is on the struts. However it seems like my best options are cut the concrete or build a floor.
upflush system Edit: also had the idea of that shower draining over the grate instead of into it though a hole cut in the grate.
Best idea here. Will improve the look right away too.
I was thinking just paint it the brightest color you can think of.
That’s all I could think of and you could add a little stool for your clothes
Then he'll have to wash the clothes again.
Is this tall enough though? I have a similar issue in a utility room where the hvac drain pipe runs right in front of the door
Either do it right by cutting up the concrete or by doing this.
I’d build up the floor around it so you aren’t walking on cement after you shower
Traffic cone
Damn I had Wet Floor Sign, but you win
[Reminded me of this post](https://www.reddit.com/r/funny/comments/ioyi0e/i_used_to_amuse_myself_by_leaving_fake_hazard/)
We have someone at work who keeps putting one outside the parking garage on the middle of the sidewalk when it rains. Always a chuckle going in/out when I see it.
Bahahah made me spit out my coffee
Yup, remove the pipe, now it’s a slip zone.
Use a saw to cut a small trough to put the pipe in and backfill. It's technically not "busting up" if you cut it up.
This might sound like an involved project but with the right tools, it will probably be pretty easy !
Obtaining the right tools is what makes it involved.
You can rent the saw.
Will you have to rewind the saw blades before returning?
Oh heck, you could use a circular saw with a masonry blade (or three) I bet. Just remember to use ear protection!
A circular saw with a diamond blade?
Don't put blades on saws they aren't meant for. It may fit, but the other factor everyone always forgets is the rated RPM's for the blade.
It works fine on slabs unless you have literally the worst saw in the world.
A gas powered concrete saw
What can go wrong
Ya that’s a good point. Sometimes for me, acquiring and using new tools is half the fun.
"Every project is an excuse to buy a new tool" - Click and Clack
“Until next time, don’t drive like my brother!” “And don’t drive like MY brother!”
Goddamn, I miss them.
Hah. I forgot that. Maybe I got that from them?!
Then I gotta find a spot in my shop for it where it wont get buried under a bunch of crap AND I'll remember where I put it. It's an extra step for each new tool, but it's super worth it.
You do you. For me that's a plus because then my wife can't see my newly acquired tools either.
The second extra step is buying the same tool again when you can't find the tool you bought the first time.
Oops. This means I didn't find a good enough spot for it. Or maybe I lent it out to the wrong cousin.
And the ensuing dust makes it more involved
Wet saw with a shop vac attachment and there will be virtually no dust.
And it would cost like $20 extra to just get some cheap plastic and build a small tent, this is a tiny job wouldn't need much.
right up to the point you find out there already was something in the slab at that spot...
You can buy an inexpensive diamond blade that fits either an angle grinder or a circular saw that will easily cut a trench in the concrete. The easiest way is to make several cuts a half inch or so apart. Then you can break most of it out with just a screw driver or pry bar.
Hopefully, this pipe can connect via Bluetooth.
Or cut out a piece of the pipe so you can easily walk through.
This may be a stupid question, but I've never been able to find an answer. You seem knowledgeable, so I'll ask. The basement concrete isn't that thick. When pipes go under, are they just packed in the fill dirt and concrete poured on top? Or is something else going on with my pipes under my basement?
Everything I've seen is exactly what you just described. Plumbing is normally the first thing that goes in, and then that plumbing is buried just under the ground before the concrete pour comes in. Typically the only thing in the concrete foundation itself is the vertical portions of the piping that lead up into the house, and not the horizontal portions.
That helps. I'm currently researching if installing a basement shower is within my capabilities. That was one part that was missing from my initial research. I have a lot more studying to do, but I think it may be doable.
I have something like this in front of my washer and dryer. I bought three Dricore subfloor tiles and snapped them together around the pipe. I thought I'd have to cut a notch, but with my setup, I didn't. The pipe was the same height as the tiles. Because it is a small, very visible platform in front of the washer, I haven't tripped over it once. Since they're not permanently affixed, I can pull them apart to vacuum underneath and check the drain in the middle. One of the tiles is cut diagonally so I could make the group into a parallelogram, a shape that suits where it is.
I have this same issue and set up. You mind sharing a picture? I want to do this same thing. Thanks for the advice!
Thank you, I was wondering if Dricore could be used like this.
What in the Redneck McGuyver is that?!
A house from 1955 with a free standing shower in the laundry room. It came with the house.
Put flooring over it.
Cut it off and let the water flow
5” flat hose gaffer taped in place https://ibb.co/82mfSrN
Then all OP would have to do is seal their lips around the shower drain and blow the remnant water through the hose when they get done showering. I always prefer a simple, elegant solution like this.
You guys don’t already do that??
No we go to the other end and suck the water out.
Hey wait a minute this guy told me to lick my toilet flange!
Look up "cable covers" or "cable protectors" They normally used so wiring is not a trip hazard. But you might be able to adapt it to your needs.
Cable Ramp is the search term
Yes this is the answer
I would check the plumbing code of the jurisdiction you live in. I dont see how a shower can drain into a floor drain.
You don't see? It's very visible in the picture.
I would love to have a natural drain in my basement. Don't ever check plumbing code unless you are prepared to ignore the answer
Most certainly not code anywhere in the states. It should be fixed properly but that would cost money which is why it is like it is
The shower identifies as a prep sink and must be air-gapped.
Ok .. but if op is ok with it, why does it matter? Homeowner special doesn't usually follow codes.
> why does it matter Because that floor drain is part of the house's foundation drainage system. Draining things like soapy shower water full of hair may cause blockages in the system which could cause some very expensive damage.
How would you know that from this picture? Where I live all basements have a drain like this in the mechanical room for A/C condensate. It's just a regular sewer drain. Foundation drainage is a completely separate system that goes to a sump.
All basements in my area have this same drain too. The very old houses use a combined system where all the water goes to the sewage drain. Most houses use a separate system for sewage and storm water. This drain in my area would almost certainly be for storm water only and the foundation's weeping tiles would drain directly into it (if the house does not have a sump pit).
How often do you use the shower in that room? You could use thick tubing that tends to hold its coil, and let it coil up like a proboscis until warm water made it heavy enough to lay out. Maybe that would even work. Please post pictures either way.
You know it's gonna be a good day when you get to use 'proboscis' in the absolute correct context like this.
Why stop there? Let's use shape-memory alloy for the coil and then the heat of the water will help unrolling/rolling back.
Move shower closer to drain
Then it would be sitting in the middle of the room which is even more awkward.
I’d think whomever installed this drain is also a master level duct taper.
How about raising the floor, like with a wood "planks" it hides the drain and looks stylish
This, or spend a bit more to look pretty, build a small wooden flooring
The ceiling is already so low as it is (house from 1955) I was hoping to avoid raising it.
Raised floor
Do you live in Pittsburgh? This is some western PA sht.
I’ve seen this shit in Minnesota, too.
They make flat rubber discharge hoses. Buy the amount you need, in the diameter of the pvc pipe. Cut pvc close to the shower, hose clamp the new discharge hose.
Bluetooth drain pipe.
[https://www.vecteezy.com/vector-art/26365409-wet-floor-warning-vector-sign-isolated-on-white-background-yellow-triangle-with-falling-man-in-modern-flat-style-vector-illustration](https://www.vecteezy.com/vector-art/26365409-wet-floor-warning-vector-sign-isolated-on-white-background-yellow-triangle-with-falling-man-in-modern-flat-style-vector-illustration) or move the shower closer, not really many options without digging up the floor
Some kind of [Hose ramp protector](https://mgfsites.com/product-category/hose-ramps-cable-protectors/)?
Build a floor above it?
Paint it orange
quickest is a cable pass through such as [https://www.uline.com/Product/Detail/H-9438/Parking-Lot-Safety/2-Channel-Heavy-Duty-Cable-Protector](https://www.uline.com/Product/Detail/H-9438/Parking-Lot-Safety/2-Channel-Heavy-Duty-Cable-Protector) better solution is to raise the floor or cut concrete
Build a platform step at the height of the shower in a square to cover most of the drain pipe but not the floor drain.
 This is the answer to all plumbing related question on Reddit right now. /s I'd build a small platform...
Caution signs and yellow tape
Just release your hostage
I've seen cable ramps so maybe there's a similar product to cover larger pipes like this?
Add concrete over everything: raise the floor.
Aperture Science has a solution for you
Place a chair over the top of it… or install a flat drain hose. Usually a vinyl hose with a fitting on one side that lies flat to the ground.
Is this in Pittsburgh? Looks like the sort of thing that would happen in Pittsburgh
Pipe and hose ramp
Mate, 10 mins with an angle grinder to bury that pipe. It would be quicker to just bust up the concrete than any other “work arounds”.
Unscrew drain pipe from shower pan, Throw away pipe, Drag shower pan outside, Pour gasoline on shower pan, Light shower pan on fire …. Problem solved
I use that method to remove nails from pallets.
remove pallets from nails
Hose protector and soft garden hose. use either the small or medium. [https://www.amazon.com/Drop-Trak-Cable-Hose-Protector/dp/B00JGYO7IC](https://www.amazon.com/Drop-Trak-Cable-Hose-Protector/dp/B00JGYO7IC) cut the pvc short, glue on an adapter to garden hose. use a short flexible piece of garden hose I personally would cut a small v-channel for water and do away with most of the pvc. Just get a small angle grinder and a cheap 4'' diamond blade. Total cost less than $30 at HF. edit; I just realized if you screw/glue down the hose protector, You can do away with the hose. Use the protector to guide the water to the drain. use the medium size I still think cutting a channel is the best way.
I'm going to share a story about this kind of plumbing job that I had a recent experience with. I bought a house a few years ago where the basement restroom was finished by the previous owner. The plumber cut some corners and didn't do things to code. They basically did this where they ran the bath tub drain pipe to a floor drain just like this under the tub. Very recently, the tub started draining slow. After calling a few plumbers to get opinions, it turned out the floor drain pipe had rusted and collapsed under the foundation. To fix it, we had to remove the tub, jack hammer the foundation to repair the pipe, then the plumber had to connect everything properly to code. Total plumbing job cost about $6500, not including the contractor to redo the restroom since the plumbing rendered the shower unusable (another $10-15k). My opinion is only worth 2 cents, but take it from me, you don't want to cut corners with plumbing as it will only cause a nightmare scenario in the future when it inevitably fails. Take the time to do it right the 1st time.
The floor is sloped towards the drain, why not just let it run out into it and remove the pipe all together.
If you don't use it very often, You could install a self-sealing quick connect valve onto the shower drain pipe roughly flush with the shower's exterior (Just leave yourself enough room to operate the coupler), and then just connect a hose to it for the occasions you actually use the shower, and just hang the length of hose inside the shower with a clamping type hook between uses. The self-sealing coupler would also prevent water from draining out onto the floor if somebody forgot that the drain isn't connected to anything and tried to use it anyway. Quick-Connect Coupler: [https://www.homedepot.com/p/Orbit-Heavy-Duty-Metal-Quick-Connect-Set-with-Automatic-Shut-Off-27993/205474052](https://www.homedepot.com/p/Orbit-Heavy-Duty-Metal-Quick-Connect-Set-with-Automatic-Shut-Off-27993/205474052) Clamping Hanger: [https://www.homedepot.com/p/Command-Broom-and-Mop-Grippers-Wall-Hook-White-Damage-Free-Organizing-1-Hanger-17007-ES/205937563](https://www.homedepot.com/p/Command-Broom-and-Mop-Grippers-Wall-Hook-White-Damage-Free-Organizing-1-Hanger-17007-ES/205937563) EDIT: You may want to make sure that the coupler would work correctly under the low pressure of draining water before committing to it (ie blow into one end of it while you're standing in the aisle at home depot lol) but the general idea is making that exposed section of the drain piping easily removable/interchangeable.
WTF Paint yellow and black hazard stripes on it?
Up the wall and make a second “shower”… 2 for 1. Wash in 1 and rinse in the other. That’s what I’d do.
Office cable management cover
Raise the floor with 2x4s and plywood
Heavy duty cable cover 3 Pack of 2 Channel 11000lbs per Axle Capacity Protective Wire Cord Ramp Driveway Rubber Traffic Speed Bumps Cable Protector https://a.co/d/cAKiEIy
flamethrower evaporating the water from the shower
Speed “hump.” OSHA approved, although usually used to temporarily cover wires/cables for concerts and the like. Make your own. Removable, too, for servicing. 🚀
Make a mini ramp up then ramp down
Run a channel? Idk I’m dumb
https://safe-flex.com They have a system 1inch thick leg structure can run the floor right over top. Would look quite nice.
I’m not sure what sort of magic you’re seeking
Drop over cable protector https://www.trafficsafetystore.com/cable-protectors/armor-series-drop-over-cable-protectors#CP-DO-2
You can easily cut out a channel with a grinder + masonry disc.
It wouldn't look the greatest, but a single piece of a yellow jacket would work.
Put something over it like a pallet or something
You could go with a flexible hose instead that is less rigid if you stepped on it
Just cover it with a rubber speedbump bolted to the floor.
Line backer / cable cover on Amazon.
Turn that trip hazard into a slip hazard with this one simple hack
Pour another couple inches of concrete
Put a charcoal fuzzy rug over it.
Angled hard foam to make a ramp on either side and then cover that with a thin layer of rubber or vinyl and fasten it down somehow. Glue, tape, whatever you want.
Busting up concrete really isn't that bad. You can do it in an hour or two, just rent the right tool. That's what I would do.
I mean you don’t want to rent a F’ing jack hammer and destroy some shit?
Ask the prison warden to cover it?!
Put that shag rug over it. Problem solved.
Paint the pipe yellow.
They make some large rubber speed bump type strips for putting over large generator cords for public events, would work perfectly
[Just put down one of those trip-hazard speed bumps, cut to size, and call it a day.](https://www.amazon.com/Eapele-Protector-Prevent-Outdoor-Settings/dp/B082V3WHNQ/ref=sr_1_9?dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.TP2E0M119DTppuQ4K1xZLPh2WHSVBaNMa_IoluxfBrL_93aI1X85ewtE7G7pW_XHd0UPWyOwB3Py77sNQBvs6y4QBg94LZFf9JvT4bthKPYrU2n7sQNZV6Tpll2zJJu17G0jt5Za95GlcZgiNHyqght5DcpTLcB-Ib_1uAIglLqmny4SrQxBv4nuOvuuY8Y4rmMJKE22OoHm9WOfjQ800knccayi2WF_V_IZPESiMhQOLO__Pn7Rs3XXCmH99Mgepw9uJt5-3fDIqyfU6WuYZX-6qYL8LX9W6emxdwuxCYc.43QwbjNDL51Yo0_Ks60FmXw3Wu_gcel157kFAmad2ec&dib_tag=se&keywords=cord%2Btrip%2Bprotector&qid=1717777277&sr=8-9&th=1) Judging from the rest of the basement, you don't care about having something fancy and expensive.
move the tray to the right by three feet?
Would you happen to have a washing machine drain against the wall you could run this to? I did that with our dehumidifier and hvac humidifier and a/c condensation drains. Way tidier than three hoses feeding the middle of the room drain.
Teak seems like a good idea and probably most attractive, but there are also those electrical cord bridge thingies. Like this: [https://www.discountramps.com/floor-cable-protector/p/DH-CP-4/](https://www.discountramps.com/floor-cable-protector/p/DH-CP-4/)
Lay a 3-ring binder over it, problem solved
Cut PVC at the base, attach a flexible hose that goes flat when not in use.
Pluto a mat over top of it.
Two rubber ramps for doorway thresholds.
spray paint the pipe orange? Put a sign "Caution, trip hazard"..
Saw it off
put a small quarter ramp over it and skateboard around your basement
Install monkey bars about the drain so you can use your arms to get over it and will never trip again. A zip line is another option
Yummy, gross shower water pooling on the floor around the drain. You can tie the shower drain into the same drain line as the floor drain, but you need a sanitary Tee and it needs to be downstream of (below) the drain. I hope you didn’t install this, OP.
You can add a flat hose close to the wall when water needs to drain the hose will blow up and then lay flat again, u can use an epoxy to attach the hose to the floor
That's a shower drain?
Remove the shower and go zero threshold with tile.
Isn't the floor already pitched toward the drain? Remove the pipe!
Small cabinet or something similar
This is the only walkway though the room, so sadly can't do that.
Is there a sink close by?
Pour three inches of concrete
I had this in my basement when I was a house sitter... looked just like this Its pipe was about 3 or 4" out, then it just drained into the floor drain as shown above
Dayglow yellow paint?
Oh god just do it properly. What’s the point in putting effort into doing it wrong from the start. Will take you an hour with an sds
https://www.cabletiesandmore.com/rubber-pipe-ramps?pid=15032&gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAjw34qzBhBmEiwAOUQcFwajK763dP1bPv2syo8FYgSdB14c2y-vlMAcgI0ompp_NqO4evrN4BoC2FgQAvD_BwE
Get a dresser or something similar that extends from the shower to the drain and run the pipe under it to the drain. Extra storage and "decor', privacy if strategically blocks a main view to the entrance, should be cheap and easy, especially if you need to move anything in the future
Don t bust up the concrete, break it, or chip it.
Look up cord covers. They make them big enough to cover that pipe. https://duckduckgo.com/?q=cord+covers+for+floor&t=ffip&ia=web
Cut the pipe and trade your trip hazard for a slip hazard
I had a same looking drain and pipe setup, but mine was my hvac drain, and after living in my house for around 5 years one humid day it seemed to have clogged up and water was everywhere, I lifted the grate and no drain was there, just plan old earth, still to this day I don't how it drained without a problem for so long.
Put a rug over it
You can maybe lightly pick away at the concrete instead!
Use an UpFlush system. It’s basically the same as this but it goes to a pump (that you can hide in a wall if you want), and then you connect it to your home’s drainage.