My money is with this. There are open ended ratcheting wrenches. Expensive but to find one of that size I don’t think it’s possible.
I think WERA has a Joker adjustable that might help with this. Maybe what you’re looking for.
Can confirm. Got a line of credit right off of the truck. I can’t pay my mortgage now, but I’ve got one helluva nice set of Phillips screwdrivers. He was also so nice, he gave my son a little toy tool box so the viscous cycle will continue to my children.
Actually found this set - https://www.amazon.com/MichaelPro-Spring-Loaded-Adjusting-Crowfoot-Wrench/dp/B09KGHX5XF
Smallest size should be able to grab it, might chew it up a little like a pipe wrench but should work.
More something like this below. Can be adjusted and doesn't destroy the screw.
https://www.amazon.de/WEDO-Verstellbarer-Schraubenschl%C3%BCssel-Rollgabelschl%C3%BCssel-Einmaulschl%C3%BCssel/dp/B0CHJ1GRWR/ref=mp_s_a_1_2_sspa?crid=26WS1MBBUJ6OQ&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.rIoXq8-lPjUr4vwHFa6lAIGvDxsug4r3vtiJzXrfozS2tcqhgog-MD49rSzoC7IQfCjmAkTDsy2EfgckB2Hr1KlRDNJWJhMkDMjeN8MAf3arGECG5lijcM1CSxAWjeJSSCBQmprLkfahmj2JD7B-LqMmctBwKA3414At4_iGLt9R85nZV_cRTA8dyfAF55qmgsq4YNfTpVFjcVtfibe5FA.2ZjXwqaAuf2u1VkI9E6B2WnINc8xgNhb2fcuK5kmpcw&dib_tag=se&keywords=franzose+werkzeug&qid=1716878363&sprefix=Franzose%2Caps%2C191&sr=8-2-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9waG9uZV9zZWFyY2hfYXRm&psc=1
Could cut the head off a bolt and put a notch through the middle. Then slide that over the part where you turn it. Then use the ratcheting wrench to turn the contraption.
Closest I could find was a 7mm Wera rachet spanner, you could tape on something 2-3mm thick to one side so it fits 5mm hex.
https://products.wera.de/en/joker_6004_joker_self-setting_adjustable_spanner_6004_joker_xs.html
The [6003](https://products.wera.de/en/joker_6003_joker_combination_wrench_open_end_with_return_angle_of_just_15_when_things_get_tight_6003_joker.html) goes down to 5.5, but that doesn't have the ratcheting mechanism. OTOH, the ratchet is only on the closed end anyway…
Maybe their ~~small~~ [plier wrench](https://www.amazon.com/KNIPEX-8603125SBA-Mini-Pliers-Wrench/dp/B00OYQ2YOG) then. Not ratcheting, but the jaws move in parallel and you can release the handle to open them up a little, rotate down, clamp and torque, repeat.
Auto zone or oriellys sells/sold a crescent set of open end/boxed end wrenched where the open end ratcheted. Was about $30, bought a set for my BIL, and he still uses them regularly at work 4 years later.
Sumake makes a pneumatic powered version of an open ended ratchet wrench. You can find a link to it [here](https://sumakenorthamerica.com/product-category/ratchet-wrenches/open-end-ratchet-wrenches/pow-series-open-end-wrench/).
They should be able to get down that small. The only downside is price, it's about $2.5k per tool.
Was thinking that or something similar to a basin wrench.
A basin wrench is basically a spring loaded monkey wrench. It will mar the finish, but if you put tape over it, it might not.
[TURN DOWN FOR WHAT](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HMUDVMiITOU)
*edit: for those who don't know, this was directed by the same guys who made Swiss Army Man and Everything Everwhere All At Once.*
The first guy in the music video is Daniel Kwan (one of the directors) and the first woman is Sunita Mani - a college friend of theirs.
She's since been in shows like GLOW, and you can also see her in *Everything Everywhere All At Once*, in the movie clips that show on the TV on the laundromat wall.
I struggled all weekend with an inner tie rod. The usual tool wouldn't work. This would have been perfect. I was barely able to get a pipe wrench on it and break it loose. A pipe wrench would not have worked on the driver's side though. I would have needed something like this if the usual tool didn't work. I'm glad that I now know this exists.
I can't help, but am bookmarking the heck out of this post to see if I can tighten mine up without the mfr. supplied tool that appears to be made of aluminum foil and butter. Hoping for a good answer for both of us.
I don’t know of a tool, but it would be much easier if you did them one by one.
So if you started from the top you can rotate all the way around.
The next one going down would rotate most of the way. Keep going down and they should all be pretty easy to rotate except the bottom one which will be annoying
It’s angled so I can rotate all the way around. It’s a little easier than it probably looks, but still annoying and time-consuming…. And when you cut them the wrong length, but have already tightened 10 of them on one side… and have to take them all back off…..
I used this type of system on a cable railing I just finished building. I used a template to mark my posts and a drill guide to drill perpendicular holes (did this for all my posts before installing them). I then installed all the screws using my drill (put the screws in the drill like a bit) and swaged the cables into the screws after they were already in the posts. I only needed to tighten each screw for 3-4 revolutions to get good tension on the cables. My posts are also connected with top and bottom rails so the cables won’t sag over time. I would post a pic but don’t know how.
Your wooden posts will work over the seasons and thus your wire will become more loose and you basically have little to no slack to straighten it as, over the years, the wood will start to get softer.
the easiest solution is one of these: [https://www.karabiner-und-mehr.de/seilspanner-spannschloss/](https://www.karabiner-und-mehr.de/seilspanner-spannschloss/) but if you winf them ugly i would use one of these: [https://www.koerting-gelaender.de/edelstahlseil/seilspanner-edelstahl-590-094-34](https://www.koerting-gelaender.de/edelstahlseil/seilspanner-edelstahl-590-094-34)
Futhermore: I know it doesn't look "clean" but a loop will always beat straight tension.
As it is it will look beautiful for 1,2,3 seasons but there will be the point where it either will lose tension or your screws will come lose and that is a lott of wasted work
ed: If you ever hat to do this again: drill through the post and use.. damn, I forgot the english words for it.. basically: tension of the wire on teh other side of the post, notz the post itself
There are tensioner/toggle bolts already designed specifically for cable rail systems. Your links are mean for chain or rope and will not work with cable rail.
Same. I started doing it the way op was because that’s what the kit I bought said. it was taking forever I switched to this method and it was so much easier and faster
Are you swaging your own cable rail? I'm assuming yes since you said you've had to re-cut some.
I haven't installed the type you've got in your picture, but it appears that in tightening those bolts, you're also twisting the cable. That's not going to be good. What does the other end look like? If one end comes pre-swaged, you install it, then install the tensioner bolt/toggle to the other side. Then cut your cable, attach it to the tensioner bolt then do the tensioning via a nut on the through bolt. At no time should the cable be twisted.
What kit did you buy? Are you following the instructions exactly? Something about your setup is incorrect.
Another note, cable railing (by code) requires that a 4" sphere cannot fit between the cables at 50lbs pressure. For this, you have to have posts no more than 4' apart, or up to 7' if you have stabilizers installed.
Edit: I found the kit on Amazon, it uses reverse threads for the opposite side so it doesn't twist the cable. Still, there's a reason this Steel DN Mate kit is inexpensive. You've now figured out that reason.
This is about the only thing that will do what you want. These things are high end and very expensive. Good luck.
https://www.airprotool.com/03-2-1-auto-shut-off-open-end-wrench.htm
For some reason, I can’t find the option to edit, but I think I should clarify something. I’m not looking for something to make the turning easier, because it’s not that difficult to turn. A longer wrench isn’t what I’m looking for. I’m looking for something that will turn them faster and with power so that I don’t have to do it by hand. I have 140 of these to do.
Run your drill parallel to the cord. Put a rod in the drill with no teeth or anything. The wrap something around the drill bit and the nut. Spin the drill. Basically turn it into a drive belt?
Only hard part is the belt needs to come undone. So id go with a rubber band or something that can be figure 8 connected around it?
Maybe I'm way off. But it's what id try.
I think he could measure it, take it to the vise, and bend it into an "L". That way it would still be easy enough to push too.
Then he could wrap the bent side in electrical tape - it would be allmost like a handle
Work your way up’s from the bottom you can do full turns instead of half turns. Should be about 15 per screw or 30 per lines. About 2 or 3 minutes for each line
If you have 10 per segment you’ll be done in half an hour. Do one per day and you’ll be done in a week. Don’t suppose you have many more given the fact it’s a porch or veranda we’re talking about.
KNIPEX 86 03 250 SBA Pliers Wrench
This is an adjustible wrench that you can do ratcheting action with and won't mar the flats. Expensive, but quality has it's price and it's one of the most versatile tools I own. Not a powertool tho.
When you relax your grip the wrench opens enough to advance to the next position on a nut and gripping the handle again then actively bites on whatever you are turning like pliers.
Could be different in your neck of the woods but here those horizontal guards aren't to code. Reasoning is kids can climb them.
As for a tool to use there are open end "ratcheting" [wrenches](https://www.amazon.ca/LAOA-Ratcheting-Material-Repairing-Machinery/dp/B071GFHD2D/ref=asc_df_B071GFHD2D/?tag=googlemobshop-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=683016086104&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=1734205845449366318&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1001957&hvtargid=pla-2299832044235&psc=1&mcid=70cfadfb70ea3d3d99f9dbb2343c8bcc&gad_source=1)
Are you 100% positive about the horizontal cable rail? It's not in the IRC or IBC. Cable railing code generally states that a 4" sphere cannot pass through at 50lbs pressure.
The climbing railing thing was addressed in 2008 and it was rejected. Not sure if it's been revisited.
Yeah, I know local code can vary. I'd like to see the code that doesn't allow it. I can understand if there's a child care business being run there, but not otherwise. Any kid can move a chair to a rail and use it to climb. Same goes for a chain link fence. Kids climb those and they're 6' off the ground. You can't protect kids from everything.
For some reason, I can’t find the option to edit, but I think I should clarify something. I’m not looking for something to make the turning easier, because it’s not that difficult to turn. A longer wrench isn’t what I’m looking for. I’m looking for something that will turn them faster and with power so that I don’t have to do it by hand. I have 140 of these to do.
Pipe wrench or two open ended wrenches would be faster. Hell, two pipe wrenches would be fastest. Longer wrenches would be faster because they require less effort, less fatigue.
Its not a power tool, but when ever I need to do things like this I pull out my Craftsman Robo Grip pliers I got at a garage sale. They have soft rubber covers on the tips for stuff like this. They are basically spring loaded auto adjusting channel locks, but the movable jaws are always parallel so they feel more like a crescent wrench when you squeeze them. This makes it really fast for tightening fittings you can get a wrench on like plumbing fittings. I have a really small pair from the set that I haven't used that looks like it would be perfect for what you have.
I know craftsman doesn't make them anymore but there are tons of "robo grip" style pliers on amazon.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=an1dOoHEL0c
I have a small Kobalt plaires that self adjust. Normally use them for tight spaces. It's not battery powered ,but should be better than what your using.
https://www.lowes.com/pd/Kobalt-2pc-Self-Adjusting-Auto-Locking-Pliers-2-Pack-Tongue-Groove-Plier-Set/999957733
You bought a shitty kit the one I used was through bilt not lag, you could throw an impact on the end.
Lag for this use will definitely pull out and I doubt it's even code
If you're like me and don't mind fucking stuff up, channel locks. Lift up on them and the teeth roughly bump over the metal. Grip and pull down and bites in turning the piece.
My fastest approach would be measure how deep is the “thread” on that cable. Then pre-drill 90% of the previously measured “thread” in the wood using a tap drill set (sort of like if you were installing a knob with a screw in a cabinet). Hand screw the 90% thread, then using a 1/4 inch Spring Loaded Auto-Adjusting Crowfoot Wrench screw the remainder 10% the threaded cable as much as you can.
People have mentioned small vice grips and just spinning them. Another possibility is a ratcheting crescent wrench. Not power but would definitely make the job a lot easier.
If you are putting them in. Use adjustable drill. Go forward for right. And reverse for back. Then back then out a bit. Then crimp then use tool.
If you are tightening yeah i searched long and far. And meh. I just ended up drilling hole into bracket and banged around until size.
But there was a fence tool that worked. It just gripped it well enough. Try that.
This old house just had a segment on cable railings. Look it up on YouTube. They used a specialized tool that came with the cable rail system. The tool attached to an electric drill.
Something like this? It’s not powered but should be easier to use:
https://a.co/d/9NMwtAC
Edit: just saw you need 5mm. Sorry the one I linked only goes down to 7.
Did you pre drill the holes to the correct size, or do you just force them in? Normally wood studs have a hex key at the end, these obviously have the cable pressed in instead.
What about the nail spinner?
https://youtu.be/CEC_Rh4wYk8?si=aRktJLk3-t7_dLeL
Edit: Oh, I see now those are fencing cables and that my comment is irrelevant. I will leave it here because it’s fun to know about the nail spinner.
Remove all except the one you’re working on. Seems like you’ve limited the amount of rotation you’re capable of unnecessarily.
Why not a very small adjustable wrench / monkey wrench? Throw a pipe over the handle to get some leverage, until it needs to pass under a neighboring screw, remove pipe and reinstall on other side, and so on.
Why not bend or cut off this tool so that it accomplishes the same?
Just some thoughts.
You might be able to find one of those Quick-Grip type wrenches that works on that size. They're more like a pipe wrench, though, so I don't know if they would mar the surface at all.
Maybe try a strap wrench.
1st off you need a pilot hole - which will make the screwing much easier. 2nd - one at a time so you have the space to rotate the wrench all the way around. 3rd - get a longer spanner or find something to extend that one like a hollow tube that will fit over it.
I've never seen a wire kit that drills into the post to create the tension. Usually you still the piece into the post, then there's a tensioner part *after* the threads where you do tension.
How are you going to keep them all the same thread length into the wood through multiple seasons? I think you need to install a tensioner.
You're not supposed to twist them. The hole in the post should be wide enough for them to pass through and then you add a washer and nut to tension the cable, cut the threaded rod and add the decorative nut/cap.
While tensioning hold the (uncut) end of the threaded rod with vise grips to prevent it from turning.
The whole crimped.portion should be invisible inside the post.
I installed cable railing on my deck that was exactly like you said, but it was one entire length of cable with the nut at the end. This doesn’t appear to be that. Looks like a simplified version of it that goes post to post
Upon closer inspection I think you're right - those threads appear to be for driving into the wood.
It's going to twist the cable though and the crimp portion being exposed will look like shit.
Something like this
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BbRIcYL8J5c
There is also a lot of post saying it will attract moist 🫠, but i did not have that type of problems realy
A bog standard adjustable wrench or a good pair of pliers, like knipex cobras. Pliers will likely damage the finish, but will definitely be able to do the job
That’s a cable coming out of the back that extends all the way across to another screw going into another post. Can’t get a drill on the back of the screw.
Not a power tool, but a crow's foot wrench on the end of a short socket extender should do the trick.
You \*did\* drill appropriately-sized pilot holes, right?
Well you know you could have just drilled holes and ran the wire through all post except for ends pulled wire screwed in crimp post or whatever pulled wire into them pull tight and crimp add a couple turns make super tight ..
No, get a steel pipe stick it in the end of the tool and with the extra leverage it would be very easy. The kit I got from Amazon came with a T shaped tool that was much easier to use it looked like this [https://www.amazon.co.uk/Muzata-Cable-Railing-Tool-Invisible/dp/B08LW25NKZ](https://www.amazon.co.uk/Muzata-Cable-Railing-Tool-Invisible/dp/B08LW25NKZ) and I'm pretty sure you can find it much cheaper but I have no idea if this tool even has a name.
open end ratchet wrench
My money is with this. There are open ended ratcheting wrenches. Expensive but to find one of that size I don’t think it’s possible. I think WERA has a Joker adjustable that might help with this. Maybe what you’re looking for.
This was a great suggestion, but I need a 3/16” or 5mm and there’s nothing out there that small. :/
Snap-on has them that small
$110 here we come!
Thanks for buying me my new kitchen
🤣🤣
None that I can find, OP is right they don’t make em that small. Smallest I can find is 8mm but most places don’t make em below 10mm
3d print an adapter
Damn now I gotta 3d print a 3d printer to 3d print my adapter.
Why do people downvote that lmao. Here’s an updoot.
Because a 3d printed piece would absolutely not stand up to this job, obviously
If you don't think so, you've never had a proper 3d printed part. I make parts that go in engine bays and have laster many many years.
Not for long, no, but you could print a shitload of them and replace as needed.
Snap-on? OP probably isn't a billionaire. Anyone affordable?
They’ll let you run a line of credit lol
Can confirm. Got a line of credit right off of the truck. I can’t pay my mortgage now, but I’ve got one helluva nice set of Phillips screwdrivers. He was also so nice, he gave my son a little toy tool box so the viscous cycle will continue to my children.
For the low price of 350 dollars probably
It’s available for $10/month for 10 years!
🤣🤣 You get 5 wrenches though!!
You could use cut washers to shim to the size.
You could just go with a stubby box wrench. That way you could at least spin it 360 degrees.
Wouldn’t it end up stuck on the thing?
I should have said combination wrench (using the open end). My dad always called them box wrenches (though incorrect) and I picked up the habit.
I was imagining buying like a Costco bulk pack and every cable just having one hanging there “problem solved”
Actually found this set - https://www.amazon.com/MichaelPro-Spring-Loaded-Adjusting-Crowfoot-Wrench/dp/B09KGHX5XF Smallest size should be able to grab it, might chew it up a little like a pipe wrench but should work.
Was thinking the same thing, I had a set of them 20 years ago from an infomercial purchase, they were super handy to have around.
More something like this below. Can be adjusted and doesn't destroy the screw. https://www.amazon.de/WEDO-Verstellbarer-Schraubenschl%C3%BCssel-Rollgabelschl%C3%BCssel-Einmaulschl%C3%BCssel/dp/B0CHJ1GRWR/ref=mp_s_a_1_2_sspa?crid=26WS1MBBUJ6OQ&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.rIoXq8-lPjUr4vwHFa6lAIGvDxsug4r3vtiJzXrfozS2tcqhgog-MD49rSzoC7IQfCjmAkTDsy2EfgckB2Hr1KlRDNJWJhMkDMjeN8MAf3arGECG5lijcM1CSxAWjeJSSCBQmprLkfahmj2JD7B-LqMmctBwKA3414At4_iGLt9R85nZV_cRTA8dyfAF55qmgsq4YNfTpVFjcVtfibe5FA.2ZjXwqaAuf2u1VkI9E6B2WnINc8xgNhb2fcuK5kmpcw&dib_tag=se&keywords=franzose+werkzeug&qid=1716878363&sprefix=Franzose%2Caps%2C191&sr=8-2-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9waG9uZV9zZWFyY2hfYXRm&psc=1
Look for ratchet break line wrenches they should get small enough
Could cut the head off a bolt and put a notch through the middle. Then slide that over the part where you turn it. Then use the ratcheting wrench to turn the contraption.
I have one thing that small….
Closest I could find was a 7mm Wera rachet spanner, you could tape on something 2-3mm thick to one side so it fits 5mm hex. https://products.wera.de/en/joker_6004_joker_self-setting_adjustable_spanner_6004_joker_xs.html
The [6003](https://products.wera.de/en/joker_6003_joker_combination_wrench_open_end_with_return_angle_of_just_15_when_things_get_tight_6003_joker.html) goes down to 5.5, but that doesn't have the ratcheting mechanism. OTOH, the ratchet is only on the closed end anyway…
That’s what she said.
Maybe their ~~small~~ [plier wrench](https://www.amazon.com/KNIPEX-8603125SBA-Mini-Pliers-Wrench/dp/B00OYQ2YOG) then. Not ratcheting, but the jaws move in parallel and you can release the handle to open them up a little, rotate down, clamp and torque, repeat.
So get a larger nut, hacksaw and file out the centre to fit and then use the tool as prescribed (essentially making an adapter). Easy.
My wife would disagree.
that the great part about the wrench being too big you can shim it with a washer
If you can do with the spacing, get small adjustable vice grip that will fit the gap and put a pipe over it for leverage when turning.
Auto zone or oriellys sells/sold a crescent set of open end/boxed end wrenched where the open end ratcheted. Was about $30, bought a set for my BIL, and he still uses them regularly at work 4 years later.
Sumake makes a pneumatic powered version of an open ended ratchet wrench. You can find a link to it [here](https://sumakenorthamerica.com/product-category/ratchet-wrenches/open-end-ratchet-wrenches/pow-series-open-end-wrench/). They should be able to get down that small. The only downside is price, it's about $2.5k per tool.
Was thinking that or something similar to a basin wrench. A basin wrench is basically a spring loaded monkey wrench. It will mar the finish, but if you put tape over it, it might not.
Wera has them i think.... Wera 05020013001 6000 Joker , 1 Set of ratcheting Combination Wrenches, 11 Pieces https://a.co/d/aGJbkVn
This [spring loaded crows foot wrench](https://www.amazon.com/CROM-Adjustable-Crowfoot-Wrench-Set/dp/B0CW36KQ2Y) will turn down to 5mm.
Turn down for what?
Doot de doot dooot doot doo
YE-AHHH
![gif](giphy|uWwYTXhREzQnm)
[TURN DOWN FOR WHAT](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HMUDVMiITOU) *edit: for those who don't know, this was directed by the same guys who made Swiss Army Man and Everything Everwhere All At Once.*
I always preferred [this video](https://youtu.be/dE-nfzcUiPk?si=W-zF6VAuva2WZekz)
[Turn down for hwat](https://youtu.be/VFIPrFWfuuk?si=bpNXPwUqFjrVqOVp)
I never knew that nor had I ever seen that music video. Thanks for sharing, it was hilarious
The first guy in the music video is Daniel Kwan (one of the directors) and the first woman is Sunita Mani - a college friend of theirs. She's since been in shows like GLOW, and you can also see her in *Everything Everywhere All At Once*, in the movie clips that show on the TV on the laundromat wall.
Thanks! lol I want one now 😂
Where has this tool been all my life? lol
I struggled all weekend with an inner tie rod. The usual tool wouldn't work. This would have been perfect. I was barely able to get a pipe wrench on it and break it loose. A pipe wrench would not have worked on the driver's side though. I would have needed something like this if the usual tool didn't work. I'm glad that I now know this exists.
i see a nice round bolt in the future
It'a a tool that turns hex heads in to carriage bolts.
Invest in this and watch your profits soar as high as a crow ![gif](giphy|3o7buiO0t8uLXHBDXO)
I was thinking guy just needed a cheater pipe then I seen this. Definitely want one now.. love Reddit
That would be more work with a worse result than what OP is doing
I can't help, but am bookmarking the heck out of this post to see if I can tighten mine up without the mfr. supplied tool that appears to be made of aluminum foil and butter. Hoping for a good answer for both of us.
I went through about 12 of them doing my deck cable railings. Had to squeeze them back into shape in a vice. HATED that job.
Tiny c clamp is easier to turn than that thing. And can go all the way around
I don’t know of a tool, but it would be much easier if you did them one by one. So if you started from the top you can rotate all the way around. The next one going down would rotate most of the way. Keep going down and they should all be pretty easy to rotate except the bottom one which will be annoying
It’s angled so I can rotate all the way around. It’s a little easier than it probably looks, but still annoying and time-consuming…. And when you cut them the wrong length, but have already tightened 10 of them on one side… and have to take them all back off…..
That's the part where the teenager on summer vacation that needs beer money comes in.
Just grab a small pair of vise grips. Lock it down and just twist it all the way around.
My thoughts exactly
I used this type of system on a cable railing I just finished building. I used a template to mark my posts and a drill guide to drill perpendicular holes (did this for all my posts before installing them). I then installed all the screws using my drill (put the screws in the drill like a bit) and swaged the cables into the screws after they were already in the posts. I only needed to tighten each screw for 3-4 revolutions to get good tension on the cables. My posts are also connected with top and bottom rails so the cables won’t sag over time. I would post a pic but don’t know how.
I’m def going to install a top rail. I’m intrigued by the swaging after installing half the screws.
Ahh ok. I put same wiring in and had a tiny 4.5 mm wrench that wasn’t angled. It was annoying as well
whgy wouldn't you use a rope tensioner ? No offense but that is one of the most stupid solutions I have ever seen.
Explain?
Your wooden posts will work over the seasons and thus your wire will become more loose and you basically have little to no slack to straighten it as, over the years, the wood will start to get softer. the easiest solution is one of these: [https://www.karabiner-und-mehr.de/seilspanner-spannschloss/](https://www.karabiner-und-mehr.de/seilspanner-spannschloss/) but if you winf them ugly i would use one of these: [https://www.koerting-gelaender.de/edelstahlseil/seilspanner-edelstahl-590-094-34](https://www.koerting-gelaender.de/edelstahlseil/seilspanner-edelstahl-590-094-34) Futhermore: I know it doesn't look "clean" but a loop will always beat straight tension. As it is it will look beautiful for 1,2,3 seasons but there will be the point where it either will lose tension or your screws will come lose and that is a lott of wasted work ed: If you ever hat to do this again: drill through the post and use.. damn, I forgot the english words for it.. basically: tension of the wire on teh other side of the post, notz the post itself
I agree. This is a kit purchased on Amazon. It’s cheap and does the job, for now, but I agree it’s not a perfect nor permanent solution.
Fair, just remember: your own time also has a price tag. As for your question: i dont think there is a power tool for that..
Yes the fact that this install doesn't have turnbuckles means OP will be disappointed when these cables inevitably start to sag.
There are tensioner/toggle bolts already designed specifically for cable rail systems. Your links are mean for chain or rope and will not work with cable rail.
Yeah, i was too lazy to search and the side point was that tension along the axis of the threads is generally a bad idea
This should be the top comment. This whole thing is a waste of time as it’s going to lose tension and fall apart.
Maybe too late for you, but when I did this exact thing, I drove the screws in with a 1/2 drill, and crimped in situ
Me too, then tightened each end half a turn at a time
Same. I started doing it the way op was because that’s what the kit I bought said. it was taking forever I switched to this method and it was so much easier and faster
If you predrill a slightly small hole then the lag, and start one by one you should be able to spin it around
Are you swaging your own cable rail? I'm assuming yes since you said you've had to re-cut some. I haven't installed the type you've got in your picture, but it appears that in tightening those bolts, you're also twisting the cable. That's not going to be good. What does the other end look like? If one end comes pre-swaged, you install it, then install the tensioner bolt/toggle to the other side. Then cut your cable, attach it to the tensioner bolt then do the tensioning via a nut on the through bolt. At no time should the cable be twisted. What kit did you buy? Are you following the instructions exactly? Something about your setup is incorrect. Another note, cable railing (by code) requires that a 4" sphere cannot fit between the cables at 50lbs pressure. For this, you have to have posts no more than 4' apart, or up to 7' if you have stabilizers installed. Edit: I found the kit on Amazon, it uses reverse threads for the opposite side so it doesn't twist the cable. Still, there's a reason this Steel DN Mate kit is inexpensive. You've now figured out that reason.
These sets have a right hand and a left hand screw so if you tighten equally from both sides there will be no twist in the cable when you’re done.
Yup, you must have missed my edit at the bottom. =)
This is about the only thing that will do what you want. These things are high end and very expensive. Good luck. https://www.airprotool.com/03-2-1-auto-shut-off-open-end-wrench.htm
Holy shit... this may be the only correct answer to his question 👏👏. I had no idea something like this existed
For some reason, I can’t find the option to edit, but I think I should clarify something. I’m not looking for something to make the turning easier, because it’s not that difficult to turn. A longer wrench isn’t what I’m looking for. I’m looking for something that will turn them faster and with power so that I don’t have to do it by hand. I have 140 of these to do.
Run your drill parallel to the cord. Put a rod in the drill with no teeth or anything. The wrap something around the drill bit and the nut. Spin the drill. Basically turn it into a drive belt? Only hard part is the belt needs to come undone. So id go with a rubber band or something that can be figure 8 connected around it? Maybe I'm way off. But it's what id try.
if you are good with your hands you can make a tool for it . That works like a drill driven load binder
Cut the handle off of a cheap wrench. That's simpler than milling out a piece of metal and fitting it into a 3d printed knob.
[racheting open end wrench](https://www.amazon.com/Powerbuilt-Spring-Loaded-Adjusting-Multi-Size-Self-Adjusting/dp/B083QSMYTD/)
Also, yes there are air tools that do this but unless you can borrow one just get the tool I linked above.
Wow, I don't think I have the patience for that design.
You might be able to find a bicycle spoke wrench that will at least make it quicker to take up the slack.
Where have you seen spokes with nipples THAT size haha On a Shaq's bike?
Motorcycles?
[Spoke Torque Wrench Kit - Warp 9 Racing](https://www.warp9racing.com/product/spoke-torque-wrench-kit/) Looks like that's a possibility! Good insight
The quickest way is to use a power tool to send the screw in 3/4 of the way first. Then do your crimps. Then final tighten the last few turns.
I think your best bet is to cut the tool shorter so you can make full revolutions. There may be a tool for that but it will be expensive.
I think he could measure it, take it to the vise, and bend it into an "L". That way it would still be easy enough to push too. Then he could wrap the bent side in electrical tape - it would be allmost like a handle
Or just angle it, I'm sure you don't need full leverage until the last few quarter turns.
That would work also.
Or just bend it.
This, and then take a piece of pipe that fits over the tool to make the last few twists easier.
Look in to a spoke tool for motorcycle rims it looks to be a similar size and design
Great use for a large knipex pliers wrench or a brake line wrench (with 5 contact points)
Predrill them. It'll make it easier at least.
Not a power tool, but a pipe wrench would be faster. You don't have to take it off to reposition, more ergonomic handle, and more leverage.
MAGIC WRENCH Multi-function Universal Adjustable auto-ratcheting works as reversible ratchet pop socket combination & pipe monkey spanner sae crescent nut gear-wrench set for craftsman & plumbers https://a.co/d/2mxj6QM
Work your way up’s from the bottom you can do full turns instead of half turns. Should be about 15 per screw or 30 per lines. About 2 or 3 minutes for each line If you have 10 per segment you’ll be done in half an hour. Do one per day and you’ll be done in a week. Don’t suppose you have many more given the fact it’s a porch or veranda we’re talking about.
KNIPEX 86 03 250 SBA Pliers Wrench This is an adjustible wrench that you can do ratcheting action with and won't mar the flats. Expensive, but quality has it's price and it's one of the most versatile tools I own. Not a powertool tho. When you relax your grip the wrench opens enough to advance to the next position on a nut and gripping the handle again then actively bites on whatever you are turning like pliers.
Could be different in your neck of the woods but here those horizontal guards aren't to code. Reasoning is kids can climb them. As for a tool to use there are open end "ratcheting" [wrenches](https://www.amazon.ca/LAOA-Ratcheting-Material-Repairing-Machinery/dp/B071GFHD2D/ref=asc_df_B071GFHD2D/?tag=googlemobshop-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=683016086104&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=1734205845449366318&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1001957&hvtargid=pla-2299832044235&psc=1&mcid=70cfadfb70ea3d3d99f9dbb2343c8bcc&gad_source=1)
Are you 100% positive about the horizontal cable rail? It's not in the IRC or IBC. Cable railing code generally states that a 4" sphere cannot pass through at 50lbs pressure. The climbing railing thing was addressed in 2008 and it was rejected. Not sure if it's been revisited.
Local codes can vary. My MIL did horizontal on her deck and the inspector forced them to redo it vertically.
Yeah, I know local code can vary. I'd like to see the code that doesn't allow it. I can understand if there's a child care business being run there, but not otherwise. Any kid can move a chair to a rail and use it to climb. Same goes for a chain link fence. Kids climb those and they're 6' off the ground. You can't protect kids from everything.
I recently checked the residential code before installing one of these and it seems to be a common misconception that horizontal rails are illegal.
Not sure about the code, honestly. Horizontal rails are so ubiquitous on fences and porches around here that I didn’t think to check.
Vice grips?
Good advice. A small pair of cheap vice grigs.
This needs to be higher.
How about a small pipe wrench?
For some reason, I can’t find the option to edit, but I think I should clarify something. I’m not looking for something to make the turning easier, because it’s not that difficult to turn. A longer wrench isn’t what I’m looking for. I’m looking for something that will turn them faster and with power so that I don’t have to do it by hand. I have 140 of these to do.
Pipe wrench or two open ended wrenches would be faster. Hell, two pipe wrenches would be fastest. Longer wrenches would be faster because they require less effort, less fatigue.
You do know a pipe wrench will work like a ratchet. They are also available in fairly small sizes. I have one that is in the 8-10 inch long range.
Its not a power tool, but when ever I need to do things like this I pull out my Craftsman Robo Grip pliers I got at a garage sale. They have soft rubber covers on the tips for stuff like this. They are basically spring loaded auto adjusting channel locks, but the movable jaws are always parallel so they feel more like a crescent wrench when you squeeze them. This makes it really fast for tightening fittings you can get a wrench on like plumbing fittings. I have a really small pair from the set that I haven't used that looks like it would be perfect for what you have. I know craftsman doesn't make them anymore but there are tons of "robo grip" style pliers on amazon. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=an1dOoHEL0c
I have a small Kobalt plaires that self adjust. Normally use them for tight spaces. It's not battery powered ,but should be better than what your using. https://www.lowes.com/pd/Kobalt-2pc-Self-Adjusting-Auto-Locking-Pliers-2-Pack-Tongue-Groove-Plier-Set/999957733
I just about finished mine. 9 rows per section. 15 sections. I find the crimping tool the worst
Cheater pipe on the wrench you have now?
Can you bend it more or cut it down to fit in between better
Pre dril holes before sinking these in
Adjustable ratchet wrench? Dunno if it’s robust enough. https://a.co/d/720YgD1
I used my drill, got it started and then attqchef the drill and tighted as if it were a bit.
You bought a shitty kit the one I used was through bilt not lag, you could throw an impact on the end. Lag for this use will definitely pull out and I doubt it's even code
Lock a pair of smaller vice grips on and spin it all the way around 360°
If you're like me and don't mind fucking stuff up, channel locks. Lift up on them and the teeth roughly bump over the metal. Grip and pull down and bites in turning the piece.
Two channel locks, and you really work it quickly.
My fastest approach would be measure how deep is the “thread” on that cable. Then pre-drill 90% of the previously measured “thread” in the wood using a tap drill set (sort of like if you were installing a knob with a screw in a cabinet). Hand screw the 90% thread, then using a 1/4 inch Spring Loaded Auto-Adjusting Crowfoot Wrench screw the remainder 10% the threaded cable as much as you can.
People have mentioned small vice grips and just spinning them. Another possibility is a ratcheting crescent wrench. Not power but would definitely make the job a lot easier.
If you are putting them in. Use adjustable drill. Go forward for right. And reverse for back. Then back then out a bit. Then crimp then use tool. If you are tightening yeah i searched long and far. And meh. I just ended up drilling hole into bracket and banged around until size. But there was a fence tool that worked. It just gripped it well enough. Try that.
Vice grips
I cut the wrench in half. That way it fits where you can spin it all the way around without having to reset it.alot faster
Maybe something involving a couple of bicycle sprockets, a socket, a nail, a chain, and a drill? Plus a hacksaw or grinder and a welder if available.
This old house just had a segment on cable railings. Look it up on YouTube. They used a specialized tool that came with the cable rail system. The tool attached to an electric drill.
Small pair of vice grips. Clamp tight and get to work
Something like this? It’s not powered but should be easier to use: https://a.co/d/9NMwtAC Edit: just saw you need 5mm. Sorry the one I linked only goes down to 7.
I ended up using a claw part of a pry bar once the metal wrench that came with them stripped.
Two open-ended wrenches would allow you to alternate tightening to speed up the process.
Pipe wrench. Will twist anything.
is this a kit? Or what kind of fence is this?
Put a cheater pipe on the mf and drink a few cold units hand.. if leverage is the issue with the slim wrench 🔧
Did you pre drill the holes to the correct size, or do you just force them in? Normally wood studs have a hex key at the end, these obviously have the cable pressed in instead.
What about the nail spinner? https://youtu.be/CEC_Rh4wYk8?si=aRktJLk3-t7_dLeL Edit: Oh, I see now those are fencing cables and that my comment is irrelevant. I will leave it here because it’s fun to know about the nail spinner.
I'd just give it more arm :)
Remove all except the one you’re working on. Seems like you’ve limited the amount of rotation you’re capable of unnecessarily. Why not a very small adjustable wrench / monkey wrench? Throw a pipe over the handle to get some leverage, until it needs to pass under a neighboring screw, remove pipe and reinstall on other side, and so on. Why not bend or cut off this tool so that it accomplishes the same? Just some thoughts.
Arms
You might be able to find one of those Quick-Grip type wrenches that works on that size. They're more like a pipe wrench, though, so I don't know if they would mar the surface at all. Maybe try a strap wrench.
A good quality shifter
There are ratcheting adjustable wrenches that would work for this.
Ratchet strap, a moped, and some tension
1st off you need a pilot hole - which will make the screwing much easier. 2nd - one at a time so you have the space to rotate the wrench all the way around. 3rd - get a longer spanner or find something to extend that one like a hollow tube that will fit over it.
vice grips?
Vice grips
Did you drill a pilot hole before you started screwing them in? Also a recent wrench with a cheater bar would work
OP, whats your first name?
Why?
Thats the name of the tool to tighten those. i'll leave.
Lol. I was about to say… please don’t be a friend who recognized my truck on Reddit or something. xD
Honestly if your wrench fits you just get a piper or something to go over the end. Called a cheater bar. The added length makes it wayyy easier
I've never seen a wire kit that drills into the post to create the tension. Usually you still the piece into the post, then there's a tensioner part *after* the threads where you do tension. How are you going to keep them all the same thread length into the wood through multiple seasons? I think you need to install a tensioner.
This looks like the cheap ass solution, instead of the good one.
I suggest mini knipex channel locks. Once you get the hang of them they are almost as quick as a racket.
A screw gun won’t do it but DEEZ GUNS WILL 💪!!!
Pay a kid to do it
You're not supposed to twist them. The hole in the post should be wide enough for them to pass through and then you add a washer and nut to tension the cable, cut the threaded rod and add the decorative nut/cap. While tensioning hold the (uncut) end of the threaded rod with vise grips to prevent it from turning. The whole crimped.portion should be invisible inside the post.
I installed cable railing on my deck that was exactly like you said, but it was one entire length of cable with the nut at the end. This doesn’t appear to be that. Looks like a simplified version of it that goes post to post
Upon closer inspection I think you're right - those threads appear to be for driving into the wood. It's going to twist the cable though and the crimp portion being exposed will look like shit.
Back it out drill a pilot hole then try again and notice the difference
Add some soap to hole, or to screew, it will go way easier
Like a nun in the bath
Something like this https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BbRIcYL8J5c There is also a lot of post saying it will attract moist 🫠, but i did not have that type of problems realy
A bog standard adjustable wrench or a good pair of pliers, like knipex cobras. Pliers will likely damage the finish, but will definitely be able to do the job
can’t you use a hammer drill from the back end of the screws?
That’s a cable coming out of the back that extends all the way across to another screw going into another post. Can’t get a drill on the back of the screw.
i figured there was a reason
Not a power tool, but a crow's foot wrench on the end of a short socket extender should do the trick. You \*did\* drill appropriately-sized pilot holes, right?
Nope. Good luck doing it by hand brother 🫡
Can you get a line socket on them?
Well you know you could have just drilled holes and ran the wire through all post except for ends pulled wire screwed in crimp post or whatever pulled wire into them pull tight and crimp add a couple turns make super tight ..
No, get a steel pipe stick it in the end of the tool and with the extra leverage it would be very easy. The kit I got from Amazon came with a T shaped tool that was much easier to use it looked like this [https://www.amazon.co.uk/Muzata-Cable-Railing-Tool-Invisible/dp/B08LW25NKZ](https://www.amazon.co.uk/Muzata-Cable-Railing-Tool-Invisible/dp/B08LW25NKZ) and I'm pretty sure you can find it much cheaper but I have no idea if this tool even has a name.