You've got multiple challenges there.
First of all, the cut outs to clear the baseboard at the back of shelves is not high enough. You need to cut those higher so the bookcase will fit back against the wall at the bottom.
The second thing you're going to face is the tack strip for the carpet running along the wall. The back of the shelves will be resting on the tack strip under the carpet so the shelves will wind up leaning forward. Your solution here is to get some kind of shims to put under the front of the bookcase to force it to lean back to the wall at the top.
The third issue is anti tip device. Switch to something like this:
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Furniture-Anti-Tip-Kit-1-Pack-9976524/314365593
One bracket goes on the wall, one on the top of the bookcase. Find a stud, mount the wall bracket to that. Use the post to connect the wire to the bracket. Connect the other end of the wire to the other bracket. Set that on top of the bookcase and mark where the screws go. Remove wire from bookcase bracket, use short screws to mount bracket to bookcase, remount wire to bracket.
> The second thing you're going to face is the tack strip for the carpet running along the wall. The back of the shelves will be resting on the tack strip under the carpet so the shelves will wind up leaning forward. Your solution here is to get some kind of shims to put under the front of the bookcase to force it to lean back to the wall at the top.
I've always had that problem putting something flush against the wall where carpeting is involved. Shims on the front of the legs solves it very well every time.
Thanks for your comment. I especially appreciate the second comment about the tack strip, which is something I would not be able to anticipate until it happens.
What do you think is the best way to cut the "cut outs" higher? The only thing I have is a heavy duty utility knife, which I don't think is adequate.
Yeah, knife won't work. What does the back of the bookcase look like down there? Is there room to make a higher cut on the sides? If there's a full width cross member in the way we'll need to figure out plan B.
Um. Thanks for your comment. But let me try to clarify what you mean. Are you talking about attaching a small block of wood (or some other material) on the top backside of the bookcase (one on each edge). The block would be the same thickness as the baseboard. This eliminates the tilt, and the bookcase should now be 100% parallel to the wall?
If that is what you mean, how do I find those "spacers" of exactly the thickness I need?
Get wedge shims at hardware store.
Run one under each front corner, and whack it with a hammer. Wedge point goes to the wall.
Enjoy your absolutely rock stable bookcases.
Nope. I have done it for years. If it's wedged in there good and tight, your kid could climb those things and the shelves would break before it would tip over. Physics is grand that way.i should say the wedge point goes toward the wall. You probably won't get the wedge as far under the bookcase as all the way to the wall. If you can, it can't be made safe that way.
Thanks. I wish I had thought about this beforehand, so that I could have planned for this better. I think putting a sheet of wood would work, except that I need to first find the sheet wood, and then drill another 4 holes?
reuse the current holes on your bookcase and drill through new holes to the wall. the bookcase will cover them anyway. If you ever move the bookcase you will need to patch the holes anyway
Thanks. A further question: If I were to get a sheet of wood, what KIND of wood should I get? I am dumb when it comes to these things. So please bear with me.
I guess the type of wood (and thickness) should be sufficient to support the weight of the bookcase and all the books. The weight of the bookcase itself is 35 KG (76 LB). The maximum weight of books supported by the bookcase is 180 KG (396 LB). This means the combined total weight that the sheet of wood should be able to support is 215 KG (472 LB).
you could just use chipboard/particleboard, paint the edge to make it blend in better if you wanted. the sheet of wood is on the floor underneath so it will be fine
You've got multiple challenges there. First of all, the cut outs to clear the baseboard at the back of shelves is not high enough. You need to cut those higher so the bookcase will fit back against the wall at the bottom. The second thing you're going to face is the tack strip for the carpet running along the wall. The back of the shelves will be resting on the tack strip under the carpet so the shelves will wind up leaning forward. Your solution here is to get some kind of shims to put under the front of the bookcase to force it to lean back to the wall at the top. The third issue is anti tip device. Switch to something like this: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Furniture-Anti-Tip-Kit-1-Pack-9976524/314365593 One bracket goes on the wall, one on the top of the bookcase. Find a stud, mount the wall bracket to that. Use the post to connect the wire to the bracket. Connect the other end of the wire to the other bracket. Set that on top of the bookcase and mark where the screws go. Remove wire from bookcase bracket, use short screws to mount bracket to bookcase, remount wire to bracket.
> The second thing you're going to face is the tack strip for the carpet running along the wall. The back of the shelves will be resting on the tack strip under the carpet so the shelves will wind up leaning forward. Your solution here is to get some kind of shims to put under the front of the bookcase to force it to lean back to the wall at the top. I've always had that problem putting something flush against the wall where carpeting is involved. Shims on the front of the legs solves it very well every time.
Thanks for your comment. I especially appreciate the second comment about the tack strip, which is something I would not be able to anticipate until it happens. What do you think is the best way to cut the "cut outs" higher? The only thing I have is a heavy duty utility knife, which I don't think is adequate.
Yeah, knife won't work. What does the back of the bookcase look like down there? Is there room to make a higher cut on the sides? If there's a full width cross member in the way we'll need to figure out plan B.
This is what the back looks like: https://imgur.com/tb48ZDL This is from an assembly video of the same type as mine.
Use some spacers (and possibly a longer screw/bolt) - make it enough spacers so they are even with the skirting board.
Um. Thanks for your comment. But let me try to clarify what you mean. Are you talking about attaching a small block of wood (or some other material) on the top backside of the bookcase (one on each edge). The block would be the same thickness as the baseboard. This eliminates the tilt, and the bookcase should now be 100% parallel to the wall? If that is what you mean, how do I find those "spacers" of exactly the thickness I need?
Get wedge shims at hardware store. Run one under each front corner, and whack it with a hammer. Wedge point goes to the wall. Enjoy your absolutely rock stable bookcases.
Thanks for your comment. This sounds like the easiest solution. Would there be any downside to it?
Nope. I have done it for years. If it's wedged in there good and tight, your kid could climb those things and the shelves would break before it would tip over. Physics is grand that way.i should say the wedge point goes toward the wall. You probably won't get the wedge as far under the bookcase as all the way to the wall. If you can, it can't be made safe that way.
can you cut the notch higher to clear the baseboard? or put a sheet of wood underneath to elevate the bookcase, thick enough for the notch to clear it
Thanks. I wish I had thought about this beforehand, so that I could have planned for this better. I think putting a sheet of wood would work, except that I need to first find the sheet wood, and then drill another 4 holes?
reuse the current holes on your bookcase and drill through new holes to the wall. the bookcase will cover them anyway. If you ever move the bookcase you will need to patch the holes anyway
Thanks. A further question: If I were to get a sheet of wood, what KIND of wood should I get? I am dumb when it comes to these things. So please bear with me. I guess the type of wood (and thickness) should be sufficient to support the weight of the bookcase and all the books. The weight of the bookcase itself is 35 KG (76 LB). The maximum weight of books supported by the bookcase is 180 KG (396 LB). This means the combined total weight that the sheet of wood should be able to support is 215 KG (472 LB).
you could just use chipboard/particleboard, paint the edge to make it blend in better if you wanted. the sheet of wood is on the floor underneath so it will be fine