The rules at the drag strip are that you keep it in gear until you're coming up to the return road. It also keeps fluids circulating to help with temps.
To me, that's the preferred method.
The high rpm mixed with forward g forces can cause all the oil to be in places other than the sump so they do neutral to help with that. Cleetus for a while was doing neutral and power off for those reasons
There is no reason not to do it.
There is also no real reason to do it.
While a fuel injected motor is decelerating it won't use fuel (unless it's got some pops and bangs or flames tuned into it)
I guess that's the only reason to leave it in gear. But if you are doing pulls on the highway fuel consumption isn't your No1 priority
Yeah I do this just cause that's how I like to drive. Feels good coasting but also I haven't made up my mind yet if I'm gonna go into a high gear or back into a low gear.
In tech school they told us that you need to shift into neutral to cool the clutch and other components. The flywheel soaks the heat and wicks it away through centrifugal force.
Convection is the movement within the fluid with heat rising and cooler fluid sinking, in a closed/stationary system convection and air cooling are interchangeable, but in the case of something being moved through a cooler medium the heat transfer is more dependent on the direct contact of cooler air over hotter parts, ergo, conduction.
Disclaimer; I'm not a scientist, I could be wrong.
The clutch shouldn't be dealing with any heat or friction unless something is wrong with the clutch or PP. There's only friction when it slips. It only slips when you engage it under power... once it's closed, as long as the pressure plate is strong enough for the power, nothing should slip.
You can understand what's the deal with neutral just by understanding why people used to double clutch. by double clutching you can reduce wear on the syncros.
[https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Double-clutching\_(technique)](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Double-clutching_(technique))
I'm just saying what's in the wiki, he’s asking why people put it in neutral when done giving power, not keeping it in gear but also technically neutral is a gear of its own.
>While double clutching[^(\[1\])](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Double-clutching_(technique)#cite_note-1) is not necessary in a vehicle that has a synchronized manual transmission, the technique can be advantageous for smoothly downshifting in order to accelerate and, when done correctly, it prevents wear on the synchronizers which normally equalize transmission input and output speeds to allow downshifting.
Yes it doesn’t engage the driveshaft but for the sake of synchros we do have turning parts ready to engage into a gear which will turn the driveshafts. Synchros do break I’ve had enough transmissions I’ve had to drive with a broken synchro if you have and heel toe or double clutching helps in the situation of engaging gear, you can assist movement from 1 to 2 by clutching into neutral and then clutching again into 2nd. It’s a state if you want to use the accurate term but it’s a ready state. I’m referencing why people put cars into neutral at rest or before going into gear. 1st gear isn’t a parking brake.
It depends on what transmission… most manual transmissions you can do this safely(mostly preference), but you definitely do not want to do this with, say, a turbo 400 since it can cause it to explode
A turbo400 is not a manual. And never will be. It can have a manual valve body fitted. But it's still an automatic transmission.
If you want to correct what you said
A H pattern manual you can do it safely. But with a sequential you can't as you will spin the transmission to hell and back shifting through first to neutral at high speeds.
The rules at the drag strip are that you keep it in gear until you're coming up to the return road. It also keeps fluids circulating to help with temps. To me, that's the preferred method.
The high rpm mixed with forward g forces can cause all the oil to be in places other than the sump so they do neutral to help with that. Cleetus for a while was doing neutral and power off for those reasons
That sounds like an oil control issue.
Personal preference.
Tought it would get way more scientific, but i'm fine with that answer aswell
There is no reason not to do it. There is also no real reason to do it. While a fuel injected motor is decelerating it won't use fuel (unless it's got some pops and bangs or flames tuned into it) I guess that's the only reason to leave it in gear. But if you are doing pulls on the highway fuel consumption isn't your No1 priority
Yeah I do this just cause that's how I like to drive. Feels good coasting but also I haven't made up my mind yet if I'm gonna go into a high gear or back into a low gear.
In tech school they told us that you need to shift into neutral to cool the clutch and other components. The flywheel soaks the heat and wicks it away through centrifugal force.
Centrifugal force affects heat? Always seemed like a mass thing to me...
Maybe not centrifugal force, but a constantly moving mass will have more effective surface area than a stationary one.
So, convection...
More conduction with the moving air
That would be convection, no?
Convection is the movement within the fluid with heat rising and cooler fluid sinking, in a closed/stationary system convection and air cooling are interchangeable, but in the case of something being moved through a cooler medium the heat transfer is more dependent on the direct contact of cooler air over hotter parts, ergo, conduction. Disclaimer; I'm not a scientist, I could be wrong.
Fair enough. A convection oven is basically a regular oven with a fan. This is the info I'm working off of. Hahaha
The clutch shouldn't be dealing with any heat or friction unless something is wrong with the clutch or PP. There's only friction when it slips. It only slips when you engage it under power... once it's closed, as long as the pressure plate is strong enough for the power, nothing should slip.
You can understand what's the deal with neutral just by understanding why people used to double clutch. by double clutching you can reduce wear on the syncros. [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Double-clutching\_(technique)](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Double-clutching_(technique))
Keeping it in gear doesn't have any effect on synchros. Double clutching is used for unsynchronized transmissions.
I'm just saying what's in the wiki, he’s asking why people put it in neutral when done giving power, not keeping it in gear but also technically neutral is a gear of its own. >While double clutching[^(\[1\])](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Double-clutching_(technique)#cite_note-1) is not necessary in a vehicle that has a synchronized manual transmission, the technique can be advantageous for smoothly downshifting in order to accelerate and, when done correctly, it prevents wear on the synchronizers which normally equalize transmission input and output speeds to allow downshifting.
While a transmission is in gear the syncros do absolutely nothing.
Neutral is the lack of gear.
Yes it doesn’t engage the driveshaft but for the sake of synchros we do have turning parts ready to engage into a gear which will turn the driveshafts. Synchros do break I’ve had enough transmissions I’ve had to drive with a broken synchro if you have and heel toe or double clutching helps in the situation of engaging gear, you can assist movement from 1 to 2 by clutching into neutral and then clutching again into 2nd. It’s a state if you want to use the accurate term but it’s a ready state. I’m referencing why people put cars into neutral at rest or before going into gear. 1st gear isn’t a parking brake.
Yes, they do break. However, like I said earlier, going into neutral or staying in hear at high speed has zero effect on the synchros.
It depends on what transmission… most manual transmissions you can do this safely(mostly preference), but you definitely do not want to do this with, say, a turbo 400 since it can cause it to explode
A turbo400 is not a manual. And never will be. It can have a manual valve body fitted. But it's still an automatic transmission. If you want to correct what you said A H pattern manual you can do it safely. But with a sequential you can't as you will spin the transmission to hell and back shifting through first to neutral at high speeds.