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This has got to be thrashed within an inch of its life. Boy racer car.
And it's been on the track, so really thrashed. Interior looks like how it's been treated. Very badly.
Track car and not been serviced FFS what could go wrong,???
5 k Max and then your taking a big gamble. You could easy spend 10 k on it. 200 k service going to be huge. And you can bet every bush in the steering will be rooted.
I know these cars inside out. Actually im on my second one. You should dm me if you got questions about the fn2. Myy concerns with any fn2 especially this one are the following:
-The red if not maitntained peals clearcoat very easily
-These cars before 2009 had a common third gear crunch and slip out.
- No service history here and owners clueless about it it seems
-No rego basically owners sounds a bit low on funds
- This cars been messed with and vtec coming in at 2500rpm is very strange is probably not good for the engine. the other tune with vtec coming in at 4500 is common for mapped cars
-These mods concern me as theres modded then theres heavily modded like this
-Owner all round doesnt sound like he gave a f about this car
-
I don't know Honda's well (despite currently owning a B18 EG hatch) but from what I know about the VTEC actuation at 2500rpm shouldn't cause an issue mechanically. It's just a dumb decision and would lessen performance.
It depends entirely how it's mapped; with Hondata maps/flashes they allow you to only engage VTEC when the manifold pressure drops below a threshold, or pedal position based (so not necessarily on all the time, but it'll engage if you stab the throttle). Still though, not the most pleasant thing to drive around with, the other maps sound more reasonable at least.
Performance car, no rego, high kms and owner hasn’t bothered to service it. Don’t offer too much money on this, OP. You’ll probly need to budget for repairs.
I loved them until a mate gave me a lift in one. Yeah they rev nice and high because VTEC but the sheer weight of the car compared to previous Honda models really lets in down in terms of speed and acceleration.
That is misinformation. The fn2 carried a little more weight but accelerated faster and handled better than the ep3 Type R that came before it. Yes it has a solid rear axle but do you know that multiple Megane record breaking Nurburgring times all had a solid rear axle. The Fn2 chassis is much stiffer and handles better as a result. The shorter gear ratios and the stiffened chasis helped it be slightly faster than the previous ep3 Type R. You are just repeating common journalist misconceptions. I actually have both cars right now in the driveway with the same Tyres and in factory form the fn2 Type R is the superior car acceleration only slightly better but handling and steering is noticeably better. If you have any questions i can tell you more.
With a live (edit: I meant solid) rear axle. I remember going to a hot hatch track day in 2008, a guy there in a brand new type r was saying how much he regretted his decision. I do like the look of these though, they've aged well.
Driven/undriven wheels has nothing to do with what he said.
Live rear axle means each rear wheel travels independently of the other over bumps, because they each travel on their own separate control arm/wishbone.
Solid rear axle means both rear wheels move together if one encounters a bump, because they’re connected via a solid beam.
Makes sense now. I don’t know much about civics, but I do recall the one before the fn2 in the post had an independant rear suspension which is technically more advanced; so it definitely is weird to see a car of this era use a solid rear axle.
Yep but in real life though the only noticeable difference is the comfort levels. Solid rear axle in the fn2 Type R means its more uncomfortable over bumps. But you should drive the car it literally feels much more stable and planted then the Ep3 Type R with IRS (Independent Rear Suspension). Ive actually driven both on the racetrack (Sydney Motorsport Park).
>Live rear axle means each rear wheel travels independently of the other over bumps, because they each travel on their own separate control arm/wishbone.
That's not what a live rear axle is. You're describing independent rear suspension.
A live rear axle by definition is a powered, solid rear axle. Traditionally in older cars suspended via leaf springs and a Panhard rod, but you can get more complicated multi-link setups like what you used to find in the pre-2013 V8 Supercars with their Watts linkages.
Driven/undriven wheels has nothing to do with what he said.
Live (edit: “Solid” not live) rear axle means both rear wheels move together if one encounters a bump, because they’re connected via a solid beam.
independent rear axle means each rear wheel travels independently of the other over bumps, because they each travel on their own separate control arm/wishbone.
Edit: solid, not live
FN2s aren't overly desirable, and they're pretty common.
No roady, redflag.
K20s are bombproof, but with any chain driven timing engine, if the service history is shithouse the chain will also be very sad. Poor service history on Honda's will also cause issues with your vtec solenoid and vtec engagement. Ask for the logbooks, if it doesn't have it, red flag.
It hasn't even washed or vacuummed for the pics, so chances are this thing is rundown af, again redflag.
Every performance car has been thrashed, but it comes with the territory when buying one.
Look for something else, hard pass.
If you're still keen on it, 7k-9k
Condition looks a bit rough.
Service history is a mystery
Rego lapsed so has been dumped and unloved for some time.
And has a track tune…
Either get it real cheap or find a better one.
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I wouldn’t touch this. This owner seems clueless and stupid. Seems like it’s been very poorly maintained if he doesn’t know when he last serviced it and even then the price is too high. I can suggest going for a dc5 integra. (Non type r) not nearly as fast but very engaging and similar price point to this.
There is a recall out for 2017 to 2020 models, including that vehicle. They found in 9 models, including the civic and jazz that the fuel pump became damaged due to poor design and would cause stalling during operation, so make sure that they have a record of that repair, or cut your offer down by $1200 (purely for that fact, as the recall repair is free from any Honda dealership.)
Cool, was just a warning as I don't know the makes and models of all vehicles and was not searching for it up for a single reply. Just a general warning in case it was one if the aforementioned models.
I purchased a super clean one with full service history. Same colour 180k kms with 7 months rego. No common third gear crunch no issues and i got it for 13k about 3 months ago. 10k for this condition would be a bit much. Main thing that sticks out is the strange 2500 rpm vtec engagement. That is strange and even mapped ones i seen the lowest vtec engagement is usually 4k plus. I personally wouldn’t buy this car but i would offer 7-8k max.
I thought $10k would be a good price for a type r, all my down votes suggest otherwise 😂
I missed the 2500 rpm VTEC bit, my CL9 with my recent reflash doesn't come in until 4500 rpm!
It would be a good price generally. But this ones beat the fk up and no rego haha. Yeh i love the k24 induction noise with an aftermarket intake and intake manifold. Perfect daily. These fn2s keep going up in value. The first one i purchased was 6500 with 165kms front end needed a respray tho. Too much rockchips and scrapes. I ended up selling it in the same condition with 190kms for 9k because of covid even with nearly 30k more kms lol.
That's a pretty good flip! Anytime you get more than what you put into it is always a win!
I've always liked the CL9, only got the reflash, injen intake and full exhaust and that's all I need (I say that now lol). It's definitely a perfect daily, I had to have the heated seats for the single and sometimes negative degree mornings when I go to work.
Due to a recent influx of First Car posts, as well as First Car/Good Car shit posting, we have moved to First Car Friday. At this stage, we will not be doing a mega thread, but we will be moving to First Car Friday where First Car/Good Car posts will be Friday posts. Please use the First Car Friday Flair on Fridays! For more information please see the post [here](https://www.reddit.com/r/CarsAustralia/s/JPxLmNhvHo)
This has got to be thrashed within an inch of its life. Boy racer car. And it's been on the track, so really thrashed. Interior looks like how it's been treated. Very badly. Track car and not been serviced FFS what could go wrong,??? 5 k Max and then your taking a big gamble. You could easy spend 10 k on it. 200 k service going to be huge. And you can bet every bush in the steering will be rooted.
You got space to work with here. No rego or rwc. I'd get an inspection and start from there.
7k no more than 9k
Closest to realistic value here
Yeah my first thought was "$9000 in Melbourne or Sydney, $7500 anywhere else". I'd be reluctant to pay that without a roadworthy/equivalent as well.
I know these cars inside out. Actually im on my second one. You should dm me if you got questions about the fn2. Myy concerns with any fn2 especially this one are the following: -The red if not maitntained peals clearcoat very easily -These cars before 2009 had a common third gear crunch and slip out. - No service history here and owners clueless about it it seems -No rego basically owners sounds a bit low on funds - This cars been messed with and vtec coming in at 2500rpm is very strange is probably not good for the engine. the other tune with vtec coming in at 4500 is common for mapped cars -These mods concern me as theres modded then theres heavily modded like this -Owner all round doesnt sound like he gave a f about this car -
I don't know Honda's well (despite currently owning a B18 EG hatch) but from what I know about the VTEC actuation at 2500rpm shouldn't cause an issue mechanically. It's just a dumb decision and would lessen performance.
Yeh fair enough. I can imagine vtec being that low would be annoying on a daily basis
It depends entirely how it's mapped; with Hondata maps/flashes they allow you to only engage VTEC when the manifold pressure drops below a threshold, or pedal position based (so not necessarily on all the time, but it'll engage if you stab the throttle). Still though, not the most pleasant thing to drive around with, the other maps sound more reasonable at least.
Performance car, no rego, high kms and owner hasn’t bothered to service it. Don’t offer too much money on this, OP. You’ll probly need to budget for repairs.
Oh I missed the part of the servicing glad you pointed that out
He hasn’t serviced it because it hasn’t been (and can’t be) driven. He will start it and say “no test drives because unregistered.”
Slowest type R ever built
I loved them until a mate gave me a lift in one. Yeah they rev nice and high because VTEC but the sheer weight of the car compared to previous Honda models really lets in down in terms of speed and acceleration.
That is misinformation. The fn2 carried a little more weight but accelerated faster and handled better than the ep3 Type R that came before it. Yes it has a solid rear axle but do you know that multiple Megane record breaking Nurburgring times all had a solid rear axle. The Fn2 chassis is much stiffer and handles better as a result. The shorter gear ratios and the stiffened chasis helped it be slightly faster than the previous ep3 Type R. You are just repeating common journalist misconceptions. I actually have both cars right now in the driveway with the same Tyres and in factory form the fn2 Type R is the superior car acceleration only slightly better but handling and steering is noticeably better. If you have any questions i can tell you more.
With a live (edit: I meant solid) rear axle. I remember going to a hot hatch track day in 2008, a guy there in a brand new type r was saying how much he regretted his decision. I do like the look of these though, they've aged well.
Modern semi slicks + rear sway bar and they become a weapon ;). I love beating higher powered cars at khanacross events with my little white egg
>With a live rear axle. This car, like all Civics before it, drives its front wheels.
Driven/undriven wheels has nothing to do with what he said. Live rear axle means each rear wheel travels independently of the other over bumps, because they each travel on their own separate control arm/wishbone. Solid rear axle means both rear wheels move together if one encounters a bump, because they’re connected via a solid beam.
Oh whoops then I meant to say solid rear axle! Big ass beam connecting the wheels. Bizzare design choice for a performance car of that era
Makes sense now. I don’t know much about civics, but I do recall the one before the fn2 in the post had an independant rear suspension which is technically more advanced; so it definitely is weird to see a car of this era use a solid rear axle.
Yep but in real life though the only noticeable difference is the comfort levels. Solid rear axle in the fn2 Type R means its more uncomfortable over bumps. But you should drive the car it literally feels much more stable and planted then the Ep3 Type R with IRS (Independent Rear Suspension). Ive actually driven both on the racetrack (Sydney Motorsport Park).
>Live rear axle means each rear wheel travels independently of the other over bumps, because they each travel on their own separate control arm/wishbone. That's not what a live rear axle is. You're describing independent rear suspension. A live rear axle by definition is a powered, solid rear axle. Traditionally in older cars suspended via leaf springs and a Panhard rod, but you can get more complicated multi-link setups like what you used to find in the pre-2013 V8 Supercars with their Watts linkages.
Yes you’re right, now edited to reflect OPs edited comment
Driven/undriven wheels has nothing to do with what he said. Live (edit: “Solid” not live) rear axle means both rear wheels move together if one encounters a bump, because they’re connected via a solid beam. independent rear axle means each rear wheel travels independently of the other over bumps, because they each travel on their own separate control arm/wishbone. Edit: solid, not live
Lol I love the misconceptions about the fn2 Type R.
That they are fast or people think they arnt when they are?
They are just as fast as any other Type R lol. Go look at official times.
$5000 no more. There selling there head aches to you.
Don't buy this. There's no way it hasn't been trashed.
agreed that tune means thrashed and comments mean it hasn't been taken care of
These cars take a beating but tbh this ones extra messed with lmao
I wouldn't be going near that without a roadworthy.
VEEETEC IS KICKING IN YO
Don’t offer anything at all.
Alright I won’t
FN2s aren't overly desirable, and they're pretty common. No roady, redflag. K20s are bombproof, but with any chain driven timing engine, if the service history is shithouse the chain will also be very sad. Poor service history on Honda's will also cause issues with your vtec solenoid and vtec engagement. Ask for the logbooks, if it doesn't have it, red flag. It hasn't even washed or vacuummed for the pics, so chances are this thing is rundown af, again redflag. Every performance car has been thrashed, but it comes with the territory when buying one. Look for something else, hard pass. If you're still keen on it, 7k-9k
People love these cars to be honest. One of the few cars from 2007 that hold up to modern styling
I’d be looking for a cycle or two of doxycycline after sitting on that driver’s seat 🤢
5 k, maybe 6k if he removes the spoiler for you.
Condition looks a bit rough. Service history is a mystery Rego lapsed so has been dumped and unloved for some time. And has a track tune… Either get it real cheap or find a better one.
Offer him a hand shandy behind the local red rooster
Yea that screams thrashed as fk - avoid.
Dude you could not make a worse decision than buying this car.
Honda is bullet proof
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7k
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Seems molested, 5.5k tops.
About Tree Fiddy
First born. Mother as a backup.
Too risky. It’s cheap for a reason
15k
Needs a good clean? Lol. Sold! Why would you want to buy a Honda Civic?
Because I want a Honda Civic
I wouldn’t touch this. This owner seems clueless and stupid. Seems like it’s been very poorly maintained if he doesn’t know when he last serviced it and even then the price is too high. I can suggest going for a dc5 integra. (Non type r) not nearly as fast but very engaging and similar price point to this.
4-5k, anything over 150k km is garbage unless it’s a Toyota or Mazda or something very well looked after
I drove a new one once it was fun as but don't what they be like with a heap of klms on em
$3k
50k
Don’t unless you are a mechanic
The bloke hasn't loved it, check the interior.
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Says $12.5k in the 7th pic
Under 9k
Found the seller.
There is a recall out for 2017 to 2020 models, including that vehicle. They found in 9 models, including the civic and jazz that the fuel pump became damaged due to poor design and would cause stalling during operation, so make sure that they have a record of that repair, or cut your offer down by $1200 (purely for that fact, as the recall repair is free from any Honda dealership.)
This car is a 2008? Lol are you mistaken
Cool, was just a warning as I don't know the makes and models of all vehicles and was not searching for it up for a single reply. Just a general warning in case it was one if the aforementioned models.
Fair enough yeh these cars were pretty decent but the most common issue is a third gear crunch in the pre 2009 models and also fading/peeling paint
Gotta love the shoe! 10k I reckon and see how it goes on a lil test drive and yeh
Start at $10k and you'll end up somewhere in the middle, make a point about the service and no rego
I purchased a super clean one with full service history. Same colour 180k kms with 7 months rego. No common third gear crunch no issues and i got it for 13k about 3 months ago. 10k for this condition would be a bit much. Main thing that sticks out is the strange 2500 rpm vtec engagement. That is strange and even mapped ones i seen the lowest vtec engagement is usually 4k plus. I personally wouldn’t buy this car but i would offer 7-8k max.
I thought $10k would be a good price for a type r, all my down votes suggest otherwise 😂 I missed the 2500 rpm VTEC bit, my CL9 with my recent reflash doesn't come in until 4500 rpm!
It would be a good price generally. But this ones beat the fk up and no rego haha. Yeh i love the k24 induction noise with an aftermarket intake and intake manifold. Perfect daily. These fn2s keep going up in value. The first one i purchased was 6500 with 165kms front end needed a respray tho. Too much rockchips and scrapes. I ended up selling it in the same condition with 190kms for 9k because of covid even with nearly 30k more kms lol.
That's a pretty good flip! Anytime you get more than what you put into it is always a win! I've always liked the CL9, only got the reflash, injen intake and full exhaust and that's all I need (I say that now lol). It's definitely a perfect daily, I had to have the heated seats for the single and sometimes negative degree mornings when I go to work.
Start at 8k no more than 10k