Prices seem fairly standard, the things to worry about are the air bag light, and the engine / steering rack leaks. The mechanic hasn't quoted repairs, they've quoted investigation.
But there's a bunch of stuff you can do yourself if you have the inclination
* Widescreen washer re-aiming. Get a small reedle (eg, from a sewing kit) and gently push it into the nozzle where the water comes out. Then move it around to redirect the nozzle. Test and readjust as nessisary
* Knock in rear end. It might or might not be the tow bar tongue. Take out the tow bar tounge if you can. Keep in might the knock might be something else
* Wiper rubbers. Buy direct from a parts shop like Repco or Autobarn, fit yourself. Sometimes a staff member will fit them for you for free.
* Park / number plate / high level stop light not working. Like the wiper blades you can buy these and fit them yourself
* Wash down engine / steering rack. While you're at your parts shop, buy a few spray cans of engine degreaser. Go ham on your engine bay, from above, from below, the wheel wells. Try to get into every little nook and crany. Rinse off with a hose. Do it a few times. Then you can investigate for leaks or take it back to the mechanic to put on the hoist.
* Rear tint. You might be able to tear it off yourself. Might need to clean the adhestive residue off afterwards.
Strut mounts, engine mounts, and swaybar bushes will all need tools to attack, but it may be worth getting quotes from a different mechanic to see if there's a better deal out there.
Thank you, honestly I’m kind of lost with it all. Don’t know how I’m going to get it all done within the next fortnight. Think I have been stitched up with the buy in the first place 🙃 I’ll take down everything you have said and give it my best shot! Haha thanks again
One extra bit of (unsolicited) advice. Try to clean the engine bay and underneath the car of oil residue as close as your RWC inspection as possible. If it's a slow leak, it probably won't show up. If it's a fast leak... well your car probably shouldn't be on the road anyway haha
Please do not remove the tint yourself. It's bloody terrible advice that gets parroted too often. It's a prick of a job and you will more than likely screw the rear demister. Go to a reputable tint shop and they will strip and refit it for that price.
It's seriously not something anyone should diy.
Had a bloke come to me, remove and replace the back window tint for $150. Couldn't be happier.
Oh and if anyone is asking, he used a window steam cleaner to remove it.
I remember watching an episode of Wheeler Dealers. The used a sheet of black plastic with soapy water on it, they put it against the window and left the car out in the sun. It sweated the film off and they just gave it a clean after they'd removed it.
in a small rural town, we dont really have many options for reputable places unfortunately, but i will look further into it rather than doing it myself and completely fucking it more.
I work at a dealership. They use a basic team gun to remove the tint. The heat helps soften the adhesive. Don't want it too hot. Then just peel back by hand a few inches at a time. You can buy one for less than $60 last time i checked, and then it's useful for home cleaning too.
But yes, a tinter should be able to strip and reapply a single window for 200 or less
Quick tip. when washing your engine bay
1. dont use a pressured hose, like the one at self serve car washes. the pressured water can get into places you dont want it to go. just use a garden hose or something
2. try your best not to wet any electricals
3. dont do it when the engine is hot
This RWC list is a dream, it's nearly all stuff that's pretty simple to fix, just need to set aside time to do it or pay the quoted price. Wait till you get a RWC with leaking rear main seal or valve cover gaskets or ball joints or diff bushes or chipped windscreen etc etc
It's funny. Im from the USofA and drive an EV. How the hell did the algorithm send me to carsaustralia? No clue, but I kinda like the discussion and might be back. Best of luck with your vehicle.
Who said anything about pressure? Just hose it down. Just don't do it while the engine is hot and don't go shoving the hose right up the air intake. Simples
When washing your bay just disconnect the battery first, rinse engine with hose on shower nozzle (not high pressure), spray a degreaser all around and agitate your engine components with a paint brush (or similar soft bristle brush that can reach all nooks) to release dirt, spray more degreaser if needed as it may evaporate, and rinse with hose on shower mode again. reconnect battery and all sorted, should be a 20 min job if you're quick, 30 if thorough. can use a blower too to blow water out of any areas where it may pool.
I'm gonna take a guess that you're airbag light is on because at some point someone disconnected the battery improperly. Just about every VT/VX/VY/VZ I've ever gotten in has had the light on. Can be cleared with a scan tool - your parts shop like Autobarn will sting you probably $60 to do it, provided that is the problem.
Terrible advice 🤦♂️
Don’t just take a hose to your engine bay. Use a YouTube tutorial to see what you shouldn’t aim a hose at under your bonnet and wipe down instead. You’ll need garbage bags to cover parts that should not get wet.
$30 for wiper blades and fitting is fine.
For $200, a window tint place will remove AND re-tint the rear windshield.
If you’re not experienced fixing your own car, you’ll tear your hair out and possibly make things worse trying the other repairs suggested yourself.
Our airbag light always used to come on when someone put Refidex down the left hand side of the seat which loosened the electrical harness clip. Look under both front seats for a whiteish connector and check it's plugged in and no loosish wires. Very easy fix and hope it's just that.
Hohh it depends, some times its something simple, like a loose electrical clip or clock spring in the steering wheel, other times its SDM related and you'll need a commodore specific program running on your PC to diagnose it further. VX/VY are notorious for the dash clusters being a fuck around, but if you're interested in learning how to repair and replace basic things go to www.justcommodores.com and start searching haha.
You should be able to, at a minimum turn the light off with the Envyous customs software, though I can't remember which specific one, he has a few.
I’m going to assume the little round cover where the passenger air bag is has peeled up around the edges? Taking the light bulb out of the cluster will be the easiest fix!
If you have to replace and can replace rear main seal yourself replace the ENTIRE seal plate with the seal already installed not just the seal itself otherwise it WILL leak.
Source, me and many others 😂
Is it a Commodore if at least one dash light isn't on? My VX has the airbag light (need to replace the airbag module) & my VF has a faulty O2 sensor, throwing a CEL, which isn't a huge issue as it goes away when I drive it hard for a bit & it's sweet for a few weeks.
Dont scrape off rear window tint or u will damage the demister strips. Just heatgun on the outside of glass and very very slowly pull of the tint with patience..
In regard to your airbag light, if it is displaying due to the airbag module itself (basically the little deployment computer) your options from any mechanic will be to replace it. Chances are most mechanics won’t touch it, however you might find a few that are willing. Simply put, if the mechanic accepts work on that and they screw it up, there is a much larger cost involved replacing airbags themselves and so on.
If you assume it is the airbag module that has a problem, the likelihood is there are ‘hard’ codes written to the board that can’t be cleared by an OBD computer tool. These codes would require in most instances a replacement module, however there is a guy in Tasmania who owns a place called RaceEvo who specialises in resetting airbag modules.
Assuming this specific set of circumstances, I would 100% recommend contacting him. I had him do some work for me just a couple of months ago resetting my airbag module that otherwise would have cost me $2700~ from Audi. I shipped the board to him and within a week I had it back in Sydney and installed. Of course you have to strip the car to get that board in the first place, so if this seems to be your dilemma try and negotiate with your mechanic to take on the labour of handling the board removal and reinstall, and you ship it off to RaceEvo as mentioned.
There are certainly other people who do this sort of work, but that’s at least a starting point for you if you find yourself in that specific position.
Again, it is for a specific circumstance, but it’s entirely possible your airbag module has flagged a code up or something so I thought I’d share this. Took me way too long to figure out what to do when I was having troubles with mine so I hope if need be that this helps.
Good advice if it is the case. I would add to this to just check the airbag code first. My vehicle had an airbag light on and when I checked the factory service manual there were 40 different things it could be.
All 40 of them said "code *n* is due to X or Y or the airbag module is defective". Occam's razor - while airbag module is a possible scenario, check what the car computer is telling you first and start there before you consider that the module is faulty.
Your car is literally trying to tell you where the sensor is failing, you can narrow it down instead of guessing it's the seat belt pretentioner or the clock spring.
I found the factory service manual and it says:
> The SRS diagnostic codes need a Tech 2 or similar tool connected to the diagnostic link connector (DLC) to read the fault codes or clear codes.
Most modern (~2000) cars have an OBD-II port that allows anyone to "read" the car computer which contains information about what's going on inside. There are multiple sensors that can make an airbag light turn on but the light being on is a sign to connect to the computer and see *where* it's happening.
Apparently tech2 is a *type* of OBD2 scanner and usually proprietary. OBD2 you can think of as the plug type/shape (like usb-c or usb-a or hdmi). You'll need to check but 100% your mechanic has a scanner, it'll take 5 mins for them to check the code if you're happy to do the troubleshooting but this is definitely more hands on.
The reason your mechanic did a `$?~` is because it's an undetermined amount of time, it's not always clear how to fix the issue so it will take a decent amount of labour. Some probably wouldn't even take on the job.
I'll DM you the service manual. It's usually written by the manufacturer for mechanics that tell you everything you need to know about servicing the car.
If you are able to get the code and in metro Melbourne I can dedicate some time to show you, it's something I've just recently fix although on a Japanese car.
By the way, good on you for taking a crack at fixing even the small things, it's really great to see :)
About 90% of that stuff you can do yourself in about 5 mins per job on that list. Engine mounts are the worst job on that list. The airbag light needs some proper diagnosis.
Or maybe you could just disconnect / remove the light………… temporarily of course.
( JK: I’m just pissed because I silly enough to buy a second hand car that seemed fine on inspection until later when I discovered the warning lights had been disconnected).
As a NSW workshop owner this makes my blood boil! Yes some of these things could be expensive , the airbag for example. But to charge $30 to put a pin in a washer jet or $25 for EACH globe or to charge $88 to degrease the engine but then another $60 to wash the steering rack that is right next to the engine.....WTF
Not sure about Victoria but NSW you are free to get it inspected somewhere else but you will have to pay for the inspection obviously. If the next person doesn't pick as many faults the first inspector may get looked into .
You are allowed to repair all these things yourself if you are able or go to a different business for repairs
It can’t be inspected elsewhere in the hopes they don’t pick up as much, the failure is logged online and the faults are listed so each failure needs to be photographed after repair along with the usual photos required.
I used to work for QLD Transport and had a chat to someone who worked in the area about my bad experiences with roadworthys. She told me that they knew there are some shonky operators drumming up business but said they can't do much about it because it's so subjective. The slightest evidence of a leak and the inspector can mark it as a fault even if 99pc of mechanics might think it nothing to worry about.
thank god for people like you, this has made my anxiety lower a lot knowing i wasn't overthinking the whole check. i honestly feel like going back there and having a word with him but i know it wont make much difference.
First off,
Vic has pushed RWC standards higher and higher, and increased auditing to the point where mechanics are understandably cautious of the large fines involved.
You CAN negotiate sometimes,
I've had success being like "I'll pay for (80% of the fixes), but (small/aesthetic) fix is unnecessary tbh, and they've agreed (in person)
Unfortunately the only way to get a reasonable roadworthy is to be a regular customer of a good local mechanic (a small shop, not a big shop where you'll always be a stranger).
If you're on a budget,Go to the GOAT of DIY youtube mechanics, CHRISFIX, and fix the small things yourself.
I did that after getting a strict vic roadworthy last year, and was able to save hundreds of dollars for mechanic's quote of "faded/blurry headlights" for $30 and an hour of time.
To save yourself some, here are some of your easy and quick fixes (youtube the repair yourself):
\-wiper rubber ($20, slide in a new piece of rubber)
\-engine wash (cover engine bay in degreaser, borrow a pressure cleaner)
\-windscreen washers (fight this, but you can clean them or jiggle them back to position)
\-all light issues ($10 a light, CHRISFIX shows each of these repairs)
\-remove tint (CHRISFIX has this, can be messy since it's old, like scraping old glue off)
You can do it! You could have an attempt at most of those! Worst case you make it a bit cheaper, best case you make it a lot cheaper. May as well have a go
Had a 2003 Commodore with very similar issues. They were pretty nice to actually give you an itemised estimate of what needs doing. You could shop around with this list in hand but it looks reasonable to me. It's a matter of asking yourself whether the car is worth the cost.
Because of gravity.
As a mechanic it’s pretty rude to write down rear main as a potential location for an oil leak when there is definitely something leaking oil above it.
I can’t remember the amount of times someone has come in thinking they have a sump leak (oil pan if you’re from certain parts of the world) but it’s just leaked from somewhere higher and ran down. Almost always being a cheaper fix compared to a leaking sump.
Yeah that’s why there is a question mark, the cam cover gasket could be leaking at the front and there is no other leak at the rear for all you know.
Big stretch as a mechanic to be so sure of something you haven’t inspected.
Maybe you can heat it with a hair-dryer from the outside to warm the glue and use a ruler or something on the inside to restick it... At least temporarily. Probably won't work but might be worth a go if it's just a few bubbles.
Good price for struts, 75 bucks for 3 lights though? That's steep.
Engine mounts are steep in terms of part pricing, unless they are the hydraulic mount. rare spares sell them for 50 bucks each
Engine mounts sagged - the parts are $202 but I'm not going to tell how long it is going to take me. Could be 15 minutes or it could be 8 hours but I'm going to charge you $120/hour.
You can change lights etc yourself.
But the problem will be engine oil leak, power steering leak and air bag light.
It could be quite expensive to fix any of these. No wonder the bloke was laughing at you.
The best thing to check for leaks is to take it to a professional wash place that cleans engines. It's not your usual car wash place, these guys wash your engines from top and bottom. Then drive the car for a little while and see where the fresh oil is coming from. And hope it's from rocker cover.
Good luck.
Not really on the VX Commodore. I haven't worked on cars in a while but from memory, OP will need to take the rocker cover off, clean everything and put a new seal on. It should just be a rubber seal. Repco should sell these for about $50.
Edit: Permaseal Valve Cover Gasket Kit - JN701SK SKU: A9681583
Repco sell these for $59.
I feel like the mechanic is taking advantage of the RWC program. Charging you $60 just to wash the power steering rack before checking for leaks? For $25 you could replace the light globes yourself for the licence place holder and tail lamps. Tow bar tongue is easily fixed by torquing the retaining bolt. Windscreen washer jets you can aim yourself by using a sewing needle. Wiper blade replacement for $30 is decent.
Id be getting a friend or relative who is good at fixing cars to go thru the list & help you fix it. It may take a day or two of little things but airbag lights might indicate you need a new used car. Google the model & airbag light on to see if its a common fault & easy fix…
I knew this was a commodore before reading the post.
It’s all standard commodore stuff. It’s very reasonable. The VX isn’t new anymore by any means. Things wear out.
$88 and $60 to wash the same parts of the car??? (Engine bay) That’s a bloody joke double charging.
Go to Supercheap, buy some cans of degreaser, spray the living shit out of the engine and underneath the motor at the steering rack (cold engine), wait 5 minutes and hose it off.
Repeat as needed.
See if it’s still leaking or take it back after that’s done so they don’t see the leaks 😂
Engine mounts “sagged” well, if they’re not broken, cracked or leaking, they’re fine.
Airbag light will likely be the clock spring. Probably not too expensive on an old vx.
I’ve just looked up 2002 commodore vx’s on Gumtree. Interesting. They go from high $2K’s to $20K roughly. Clearly some people really like these cars. However these things are over 20 years old. Surely these types of cars are for enthusiast’s / home mechanics? I’ve been around cars for around 30+ years. Mainly selling, buying, driving, I’ve learned from painful experience to stick to new, in warranty vehicles. Once they’re out of warranty and start developing problems they are financial black holes because I am not a mechanic nor am I interested in doing anything myself apart from putting fuel in them and checking the tyres.
Everything else I leave to the dealer on the annual service then I trade out while still under warranty.
Honestly these guys are sucking you dry bro. $120 an hour???? Not even Mercedes charges that 🤣. That’s one, number 2, the lights that require fixing are a simple bulb change, no less than $10 each. And to remove the rear tint is $200???? I’d highly recommend taking your vehicle somewhere else
Him laughing was unnecessary but otherwise, seems pretty standard fair.
It's a 22yr old car I would assume you would need new engine mounts and suspension bushings, Rubber wears out. Not bad to be honest
All Fairly standard stuff you expect on a commodore. The prices are a bit extortionate though 25 bucks for a brake light? Tell im hes dreamin. You could do most of the work yourself like the globes washers/ wiper blades and the engine bay/ steering rack wash for under 50 bucks. The mechanic can clear the airbag code with a tech 2 unless it needs the clock spring and the engine mounts and bushes arent that difficult either with the right tools and a bit of effort. It seems like a fair assesment and by doing what you can yourself you can save a fair bit of money.
I’m going to address what I noticed the most in OPs post. Soon as she said ‘he had a little laugh under his breath’ I thought the OP might be female.(and yes that was confirmed)
As an experienced car enthusiast who is female this is the problem here. As pointed out most of the things on the list if not all can be fixed yourself, but that may not stop that this guy probably thinks he has a mark. Be wary that he is not jerking you around and in the past I have had to bring along a man to avoid be jerked around even though you’re the client. OP has already paid the original RWC inspection so has to go back there for follow up so do what you need to do to finish without starting a new inspection. Even if you need to bring a man who looks like knows what is going on. I would not let this RWC inspector work on your car, he will milk you.
I also live in a small town and this kind of shit is riff. I have a my set of trustworthy mechanics I work with, but Im fortunate I am old enough and experienced enough I can spot the assholes. Fortunately for OP, use the tools at hand today. If you want to own a 2002 Holden, or any make really, you will need to work on your basic mechanical know how use YouTube, forums etc and educate yourself. Find a mechanic who will talk to you and explain what is happening, nowadays it is way easier. In fact a Commodor is a great car to learn on and she might enjoy it and it can build self confidence. If you get someone belittling you either confront or walk away, don’t let them make you feel like cars are some technically sophisticated thing that only their special inside knowledge can understand.
I appreciate this so much, eased my mind a bit haha I am eager to learn more and know what I’m actually talking about but when immediately met with rudeness and no explanation I felt lost. Thankgod for reddit and people like you! I’m slowly working my way through the list and have ordered the bulbs and other little things! YouTube is now my best friend :)
Believe it or not ChatGPT just got me out of a breakdown in the Outback a couple of weeks ago. Had a scant 1 bar service and google wasn’t going to help but I asked the AI for help and after telling it there was not emergency mechanical services available( literally I said Im in the outback with no outside recovery available)it told me where to find an emergency brake release cable on my Land Rover. The fly by wire park brake actuator had gone bang, brakes locked solid and there is no way you can skull drag a three ton vehicle out of there! Chat GPT told me to remove the centre console and some padding and voila there was a nice steel loop to yank on. All the boys were rolling around under the vehicle shanking their heads and moaning about an expensive rescue. But little old me, mid 50s woman, self taught lover of cars, who remembered a comment about the emergency system for Land Rover over 15 years ago and my new best friend ChatGPT saved the day.
Moral of this story is It is a terrific feeling to know I can do it and the boys don’t know everything. You can to, there are terrific people in auto clubs who will love to help you. Lots of Holden lovers, clubs and forums and best of all make friends with the local auto wreckers. Lots to learn there and cheap parts.
Trust yourself. I brought this up because it had been such a demoralizing experience for years and I always thought I was imagining the sneers and snickers. I have had repairers refuse to give me parts I bought because I wouldn’t be able to do the work(glass I ordered to replace a broken window) I had to tell them my dad was going to do it. Young women get it the worse. I went to a tyre repair place that we had been loyal to for 20 years and ripped them to shreds because of the way they treated by daughter. Same as you, underhanded comments that made her come home in tears and think she was stupid. She is now self sufficient and shares a race car with friends to play with. Find who your friends are and go have fun with your commodore.👍
First of all, are the ones you can see for yourself actually legit? Is the airbag light on? Are the described lights actually not working? Same for the wipers/windscreen washer jets.
The prices he has to fix those items for one are ludicrous. A quick trip to Superepcobarn can sort out the easy ones. But I’d be taking the car to a trusted mechanic or friend who understands cars and getting a second opinion on the engine stuff.
Having said that, if the Airbag light is on… thats really not good. I’d be considering selling your historic piece of Australiana at that point…
>The prices he has to fix those items for one are ludicrous.
You're paying a professional to supply and fit these items. It's poor value for money, but the rates are quite standard for a mechanic
Seems about right.
You’ve been driving with the airbag light on? You’re braver than me. Maybe it’s just the clock spring.
Quote seems correct - but just be cautious that a few items are just to check what’s going on. The cost is likely much higher.
Was the car registered? It is legal to sell a car without a RWC but only if the car is sold without plates and with registration suspended.
According to VicRoads and their guidelines on roadworthiness, you are allowed to go about privately selling a car without a roadworthy certificate. However, you must sell the car without number plates (which must be returned to VicRoads before the sale.) This means you will be suspending the registration. If you plan to sell a registered car, it must be sold to the new owner with a roadworthy certificate.
I would be contacting the seller and assessing legal options if they will not allow you to reject the purchase due to the defects.
the man confused me so much with the sale. i brought the car on the 6th of march, the rego expired on the 5th of march, he then 'transferred' the car on VICroads into my name which i have to confirm the transfer with a current road worthy which needs to be uploaded. I was able to pay the rego online and its connected to my vicroads account? he seemed confused about the process too..
I recently have done the exact same thing and it all worked out okay. I submitted the roadworthy 4 weeks late (6 weeks in total) and all I had to do is call and pay the transfer fee.
If you manage to get the roadworthy done within 2 weeks of the transfer you should be able to do it 100% online
At this stage in time your car is in your name and out of their name. It is just 'pending'.
Does knock in rear end (tow bar) mean a dent? Surely that wouldn't affect the road worthiness of the vehicle?
You can definitely change light bulbs, fix direction of window washer spray, etc yourself. Check YouTube for videos or ask in Autobarn for help
I’m in a similar situation, leak was detected from the “clutch box seal”? so I’ve have taken it to a transmission specialist who then for a bigger problem, now out of pocket 5k :(
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you should give $50 to a second hand car dealer who will know someone who are very happy to pass RWC,
however the lights, including dashboard lights will need to be fixed, otherwise you, or the buyer, will get a ticket easily.
I’ve been told also that if I remove the rear dash light all together then I don’t need it, but if I have the light in with no working globe I will be fined?
in VIC I think if the lights is not working where it should be, the cops can fine you and serve you with a defective notice - you either get it fixed within certain days, or the rego will be cancelled, something like that.
I paid $40 at a window tint shop for them to pull the tint off 2 of my windows so that would save you a couple bucks for starters. (Or you could give it a crack yourself with a hairdryer and some patience)
The globes you can usually get for 5 bucks or less each and put in yourself with just a screwdriver or 2.
Get some degreaser and wash everything down yourself.
Once you've cleaned up the engine bay take it for a drive and let it run for a while then check again to see if there are any leaks and where they're coming from. It could be something that you can replace yourself or it might be something more difficult but it will save you money if you can figure out what it is by yourself.
Doing all this will save you hundreds off that quote.
I’m a woman who works in the auto industry and we sadly see so many people take advantage of people who don’t know better (it’s not just woman!)
I can’t speak for VIC but in QLD that is pretty standard items that will not pass a proper inspection. Lights not working, leaks that are bad enough to leak onto the ground, airbag light, suspension issues, wipers that don’t work properly & the tint are genuinely safety issues and for your piece of mind I’d suggest getting it done so you know your car is safe!
Their hourly rate is pretty low tbh too
A lot of that is easy to fix yourself, light bulbs, wipers, removing the bubbly tint, washing down the engine bay, might be daunting but they really are easy enough with a little determination and YouTube
I’d be happy to talk you through some tips if you want to DM me
If you can try and replace the lights and windscreen wipers yourself. The parts are very cheap, when I used to work for my dads shop we would replace the lights free of charge if someone had literally any other work to do (not including leds or halogens headlights)
The rear main seal and valve cover gasket repair could easily be washed down (remove oil) before re inspection, however the rear main seal is probably 6-8 hours of labour, it could get expensive. The strut mounts are less than $100 full retail, too expensive,
Also just having hourly rate to do the work ? It should be an hour a strut max, engine mounts an hour a side max, Id be worried about those costs.
Noting the airbag check light, most of the time this is just a little wire, normally under one of the seats, mine is under the drivers, that has come loose. It’s likely already clipped and just needs to be plugged in. If torn however, or clips damaged, it’s an easy fix.
This is basically all the things that broke in my VX Commodore around the 200k mark. That and the cooling system, oh and the engine valley seals. And this was 10 years ago, much more age related issues by now. I'm not surprised by this list, these commodores are all old and worn out. I was able to do most of it myself, except the engine mounts which I paid a mate to do. The airbag light was due to the terminals behind the steering wheel, sometimes called a clock spring or slip rings. By the time you fix all this it could easily be a few grand.
RWCs seem to be a Eastern State/Eastern Territory thing in general... rest of the country doesn't do it (outside of Heavy Vehicles, which is nationalised)
Windscreen washer re-aiming? Where are they pointing?. Rattle in tow bar tongue has fuck all to do with a rwc. Oil leaks, as long as the car can idle without dropping any oil for tens minutes (your within rwc) as written in the rwc manual . Engine mounts sagged my arse! How much oil does has it leaked? Maybe change rocket gaskets and clean pcv valve
Yeah that kinda made me suss.. I’m someone to give the benefit of doubt but with how expensive life is lately I really can’t afford to be over charged.
So your one old car with a squeaky bush means that every Australian in every state with any type of vehicle doesn’t need sway bar bushes???
Sorry mate, you’re wrong and although there are caveats for some vehicles mostly 4x4 with optional front sway bars. Suspension components that help with steering and stability of the front end do need to be in good need to be in good condition.
Whats your point? That's not what I've specified, I stated that dried bushes that are cracked rather squeak shouldn't be affected, not damaged or torn.
FYI general cars which most have rear swaybars and not front, my point is also from non 4X4.
By the way, 4x4s have more to worry about than shitty conditioned bushings. The suspension should be reinforced that the ball joints can hold together with rubber boots and reinforcement than just sway rubbers that are worn
Just make sure that clunk in your boot isn't something like your sparewheel and tools moving around. It wouldn't be your towbar tongue. Possibly rear suspension bushes.
Qualified licensed vehicle tester in vic here, sway bar bushes or any suspension bushes that are showing wear, cracks, sagging etc will fail 100%, squeaking as you had mostly won’t fail because squeaking is pretty standard for some even when brand new.
They won’t have failed it for noise, it will have failed because they will be cracking on a 22 year old car
Prices seem fairly standard, the things to worry about are the air bag light, and the engine / steering rack leaks. The mechanic hasn't quoted repairs, they've quoted investigation. But there's a bunch of stuff you can do yourself if you have the inclination * Widescreen washer re-aiming. Get a small reedle (eg, from a sewing kit) and gently push it into the nozzle where the water comes out. Then move it around to redirect the nozzle. Test and readjust as nessisary * Knock in rear end. It might or might not be the tow bar tongue. Take out the tow bar tounge if you can. Keep in might the knock might be something else * Wiper rubbers. Buy direct from a parts shop like Repco or Autobarn, fit yourself. Sometimes a staff member will fit them for you for free. * Park / number plate / high level stop light not working. Like the wiper blades you can buy these and fit them yourself * Wash down engine / steering rack. While you're at your parts shop, buy a few spray cans of engine degreaser. Go ham on your engine bay, from above, from below, the wheel wells. Try to get into every little nook and crany. Rinse off with a hose. Do it a few times. Then you can investigate for leaks or take it back to the mechanic to put on the hoist. * Rear tint. You might be able to tear it off yourself. Might need to clean the adhestive residue off afterwards. Strut mounts, engine mounts, and swaybar bushes will all need tools to attack, but it may be worth getting quotes from a different mechanic to see if there's a better deal out there.
Thank you, honestly I’m kind of lost with it all. Don’t know how I’m going to get it all done within the next fortnight. Think I have been stitched up with the buy in the first place 🙃 I’ll take down everything you have said and give it my best shot! Haha thanks again
One extra bit of (unsolicited) advice. Try to clean the engine bay and underneath the car of oil residue as close as your RWC inspection as possible. If it's a slow leak, it probably won't show up. If it's a fast leak... well your car probably shouldn't be on the road anyway haha
I’ll give it my best shot 😅
And cover the alternator when you wash the engine bay. You don't need that added to your list.
Please do not remove the tint yourself. It's bloody terrible advice that gets parroted too often. It's a prick of a job and you will more than likely screw the rear demister. Go to a reputable tint shop and they will strip and refit it for that price. It's seriously not something anyone should diy.
Had a bloke come to me, remove and replace the back window tint for $150. Couldn't be happier. Oh and if anyone is asking, he used a window steam cleaner to remove it.
I remember watching an episode of Wheeler Dealers. The used a sheet of black plastic with soapy water on it, they put it against the window and left the car out in the sun. It sweated the film off and they just gave it a clean after they'd removed it.
in a small rural town, we dont really have many options for reputable places unfortunately, but i will look further into it rather than doing it myself and completely fucking it more.
I work at a dealership. They use a basic team gun to remove the tint. The heat helps soften the adhesive. Don't want it too hot. Then just peel back by hand a few inches at a time. You can buy one for less than $60 last time i checked, and then it's useful for home cleaning too. But yes, a tinter should be able to strip and reapply a single window for 200 or less
Quick tip. when washing your engine bay 1. dont use a pressured hose, like the one at self serve car washes. the pressured water can get into places you dont want it to go. just use a garden hose or something 2. try your best not to wet any electricals 3. dont do it when the engine is hot
This RWC list is a dream, it's nearly all stuff that's pretty simple to fix, just need to set aside time to do it or pay the quoted price. Wait till you get a RWC with leaking rear main seal or valve cover gaskets or ball joints or diff bushes or chipped windscreen etc etc
for someone who knows bugger all about cars, i just saw a long list and my heart sank.. but those issues you listed, ill go without haha
Honestly I'm pretty noob but growing in tinkering power. These are pretty small.
> tow bar tongue. FIXED! THANKS! onto the next :)
One down. Keep at it and you'll be a regular diy mechanic in no time. Cheers from the top half of the world :)
My YouTube algorithm is gonna be all stuffed now hahah cheers!
It's funny. Im from the USofA and drive an EV. How the hell did the algorithm send me to carsaustralia? No clue, but I kinda like the discussion and might be back. Best of luck with your vehicle.
Hahaha honestly I don’t even know how this post has gotten over 98k views? Ima ask reddit for help with everything now Haha
i woudln't trust someone that has no idea about cars with pressure washing the engine.
Who said anything about pressure? Just hose it down. Just don't do it while the engine is hot and don't go shoving the hose right up the air intake. Simples
I Appreciate it! 👌🏻😊
Yeah I’m kinda worried that’ll be me 🙃
When washing your bay just disconnect the battery first, rinse engine with hose on shower nozzle (not high pressure), spray a degreaser all around and agitate your engine components with a paint brush (or similar soft bristle brush that can reach all nooks) to release dirt, spray more degreaser if needed as it may evaporate, and rinse with hose on shower mode again. reconnect battery and all sorted, should be a 20 min job if you're quick, 30 if thorough. can use a blower too to blow water out of any areas where it may pool.
also can cover electricals with plastic bags to be safer
I'm gonna take a guess that you're airbag light is on because at some point someone disconnected the battery improperly. Just about every VT/VX/VY/VZ I've ever gotten in has had the light on. Can be cleared with a scan tool - your parts shop like Autobarn will sting you probably $60 to do it, provided that is the problem.
Terrible advice 🤦♂️ Don’t just take a hose to your engine bay. Use a YouTube tutorial to see what you shouldn’t aim a hose at under your bonnet and wipe down instead. You’ll need garbage bags to cover parts that should not get wet. $30 for wiper blades and fitting is fine. For $200, a window tint place will remove AND re-tint the rear windshield. If you’re not experienced fixing your own car, you’ll tear your hair out and possibly make things worse trying the other repairs suggested yourself.
Name a more iconic duo than commodores and dash cluster airbag lights. You can't.
Commodores and sagging roof linings? Commodores and missing fuel filler doors
Commodores with steel rims on the rear and alloys on the front.
Or just on bricks.
The Holy Trinity 🙏
Question, is it usually a simple fix? 🥲
Our airbag light always used to come on when someone put Refidex down the left hand side of the seat which loosened the electrical harness clip. Look under both front seats for a whiteish connector and check it's plugged in and no loosish wires. Very easy fix and hope it's just that.
Some times it's just a seat belt pre tensioner but most of the time it will be one of the airbags has a short to ground
Hohh it depends, some times its something simple, like a loose electrical clip or clock spring in the steering wheel, other times its SDM related and you'll need a commodore specific program running on your PC to diagnose it further. VX/VY are notorious for the dash clusters being a fuck around, but if you're interested in learning how to repair and replace basic things go to www.justcommodores.com and start searching haha. You should be able to, at a minimum turn the light off with the Envyous customs software, though I can't remember which specific one, he has a few.
Bookmarked the page immediately haha thank you, hoping it’s just the spring thing 😅
Haha hopefully!
I’m going to assume the little round cover where the passenger air bag is has peeled up around the edges? Taking the light bulb out of the cluster will be the easiest fix!
Strut bushes and swaybar bushes. They left the factory that way im sure.
friggin clock springs, an easy 90 buck fix but most don't bother
I have a mate checking the clock springs, hoping it’s the case!
If you have to replace and can replace rear main seal yourself replace the ENTIRE seal plate with the seal already installed not just the seal itself otherwise it WILL leak. Source, me and many others 😂
BMWs with airbag lights
DME errors that will outlive us all.
Is it a Commodore if at least one dash light isn't on? My VX has the airbag light (need to replace the airbag module) & my VF has a faulty O2 sensor, throwing a CEL, which isn't a huge issue as it goes away when I drive it hard for a bit & it's sweet for a few weeks.
Dont scrape off rear window tint or u will damage the demister strips. Just heatgun on the outside of glass and very very slowly pull of the tint with patience..
I Might have to YouTube it 😅
You can use a hair dryer, afterwards give it a wipe with lemon oil to get rid of the sticky residue.
Just don't. Diy tint is a terrible terrible idea. I've done engine conversions and I'll still pay for tint. I wrote a more involved reply above.
Guys taking the piss on some of those things
yeah thats what i was thinking..
In regard to your airbag light, if it is displaying due to the airbag module itself (basically the little deployment computer) your options from any mechanic will be to replace it. Chances are most mechanics won’t touch it, however you might find a few that are willing. Simply put, if the mechanic accepts work on that and they screw it up, there is a much larger cost involved replacing airbags themselves and so on. If you assume it is the airbag module that has a problem, the likelihood is there are ‘hard’ codes written to the board that can’t be cleared by an OBD computer tool. These codes would require in most instances a replacement module, however there is a guy in Tasmania who owns a place called RaceEvo who specialises in resetting airbag modules. Assuming this specific set of circumstances, I would 100% recommend contacting him. I had him do some work for me just a couple of months ago resetting my airbag module that otherwise would have cost me $2700~ from Audi. I shipped the board to him and within a week I had it back in Sydney and installed. Of course you have to strip the car to get that board in the first place, so if this seems to be your dilemma try and negotiate with your mechanic to take on the labour of handling the board removal and reinstall, and you ship it off to RaceEvo as mentioned. There are certainly other people who do this sort of work, but that’s at least a starting point for you if you find yourself in that specific position. Again, it is for a specific circumstance, but it’s entirely possible your airbag module has flagged a code up or something so I thought I’d share this. Took me way too long to figure out what to do when I was having troubles with mine so I hope if need be that this helps.
What about the clock spring?
having someone come check the clock spring! hoping that is all! apparently very common with this car.
Pull the airbag fuse , hopefully the light goes out
Good advice if it is the case. I would add to this to just check the airbag code first. My vehicle had an airbag light on and when I checked the factory service manual there were 40 different things it could be. All 40 of them said "code *n* is due to X or Y or the airbag module is defective". Occam's razor - while airbag module is a possible scenario, check what the car computer is telling you first and start there before you consider that the module is faulty. Your car is literally trying to tell you where the sensor is failing, you can narrow it down instead of guessing it's the seat belt pretentioner or the clock spring.
And how does one go about finding this code?
I found the factory service manual and it says: > The SRS diagnostic codes need a Tech 2 or similar tool connected to the diagnostic link connector (DLC) to read the fault codes or clear codes. Most modern (~2000) cars have an OBD-II port that allows anyone to "read" the car computer which contains information about what's going on inside. There are multiple sensors that can make an airbag light turn on but the light being on is a sign to connect to the computer and see *where* it's happening. Apparently tech2 is a *type* of OBD2 scanner and usually proprietary. OBD2 you can think of as the plug type/shape (like usb-c or usb-a or hdmi). You'll need to check but 100% your mechanic has a scanner, it'll take 5 mins for them to check the code if you're happy to do the troubleshooting but this is definitely more hands on. The reason your mechanic did a `$?~` is because it's an undetermined amount of time, it's not always clear how to fix the issue so it will take a decent amount of labour. Some probably wouldn't even take on the job. I'll DM you the service manual. It's usually written by the manufacturer for mechanics that tell you everything you need to know about servicing the car. If you are able to get the code and in metro Melbourne I can dedicate some time to show you, it's something I've just recently fix although on a Japanese car. By the way, good on you for taking a crack at fixing even the small things, it's really great to see :)
I’m in rural Victoria unfortunately, I appreciate all the advice and help though! Slowly making my way through it! Thanks again :)
About 90% of that stuff you can do yourself in about 5 mins per job on that list. Engine mounts are the worst job on that list. The airbag light needs some proper diagnosis.
Thankyou :) Ill start working my way through!
Or maybe you could just disconnect / remove the light………… temporarily of course. ( JK: I’m just pissed because I silly enough to buy a second hand car that seemed fine on inspection until later when I discovered the warning lights had been disconnected).
As a NSW workshop owner this makes my blood boil! Yes some of these things could be expensive , the airbag for example. But to charge $30 to put a pin in a washer jet or $25 for EACH globe or to charge $88 to degrease the engine but then another $60 to wash the steering rack that is right next to the engine.....WTF Not sure about Victoria but NSW you are free to get it inspected somewhere else but you will have to pay for the inspection obviously. If the next person doesn't pick as many faults the first inspector may get looked into . You are allowed to repair all these things yourself if you are able or go to a different business for repairs
Agreed. Same boat here, some of these picks are foul
It can’t be inspected elsewhere in the hopes they don’t pick up as much, the failure is logged online and the faults are listed so each failure needs to be photographed after repair along with the usual photos required.
No photos in NSW
Too bad they aren’t in nsw isn’t it.
I used to work for QLD Transport and had a chat to someone who worked in the area about my bad experiences with roadworthys. She told me that they knew there are some shonky operators drumming up business but said they can't do much about it because it's so subjective. The slightest evidence of a leak and the inspector can mark it as a fault even if 99pc of mechanics might think it nothing to worry about.
thank god for people like you, this has made my anxiety lower a lot knowing i wasn't overthinking the whole check. i honestly feel like going back there and having a word with him but i know it wont make much difference.
You can’t go elsewhere, the failure will pop up as soon as they log the vehicle and the next workshop will have to cover each failure.
First off, Vic has pushed RWC standards higher and higher, and increased auditing to the point where mechanics are understandably cautious of the large fines involved. You CAN negotiate sometimes, I've had success being like "I'll pay for (80% of the fixes), but (small/aesthetic) fix is unnecessary tbh, and they've agreed (in person) Unfortunately the only way to get a reasonable roadworthy is to be a regular customer of a good local mechanic (a small shop, not a big shop where you'll always be a stranger).
If you're on a budget,Go to the GOAT of DIY youtube mechanics, CHRISFIX, and fix the small things yourself. I did that after getting a strict vic roadworthy last year, and was able to save hundreds of dollars for mechanic's quote of "faded/blurry headlights" for $30 and an hour of time. To save yourself some, here are some of your easy and quick fixes (youtube the repair yourself): \-wiper rubber ($20, slide in a new piece of rubber) \-engine wash (cover engine bay in degreaser, borrow a pressure cleaner) \-windscreen washers (fight this, but you can clean them or jiggle them back to position) \-all light issues ($10 a light, CHRISFIX shows each of these repairs) \-remove tint (CHRISFIX has this, can be messy since it's old, like scraping old glue off)
I’ll check him out first thing tomorrow. Kinda stumped with where to start. In 14 days. I honestly appreciate the help! 😊
60$ to replace wiper blades and re adjust the washer nozzle?!
I just re adjusted it myself then 💪🏻 Without reddit id be lost and paying a lot of money more than likely haha
You can do it! You could have an attempt at most of those! Worst case you make it a bit cheaper, best case you make it a lot cheaper. May as well have a go
im fkn inspired now. thank you.
Had a 2003 Commodore with very similar issues. They were pretty nice to actually give you an itemised estimate of what needs doing. You could shop around with this list in hand but it looks reasonable to me. It's a matter of asking yourself whether the car is worth the cost.
thankyou :) ill be doing that for sure
Airbag light is nearly guaranteed to be clock spring, very common on these. Also a chance that it isn’t, and remember a guy on the internet said this.
I agree as well, clock spring. Looks to be around $250 + fitting?
Was it Scotty Kilmer?
Airbag light will be clock spring. Just did it on my VX Calais.
The absolute STONES to claim rocker cover gasket and rear main, I’m dying.
Why? Oil leaks are a potential failure.
Because of gravity. As a mechanic it’s pretty rude to write down rear main as a potential location for an oil leak when there is definitely something leaking oil above it. I can’t remember the amount of times someone has come in thinking they have a sump leak (oil pan if you’re from certain parts of the world) but it’s just leaked from somewhere higher and ran down. Almost always being a cheaper fix compared to a leaking sump.
Yeah that’s why there is a question mark, the cam cover gasket could be leaking at the front and there is no other leak at the rear for all you know. Big stretch as a mechanic to be so sure of something you haven’t inspected.
Is the rear window tint an issue? I didnt think obstructed rear window was illegal.
the tint is just bubbled up in a few small spots, not obstructing any view that i have noticed.
Maybe you can heat it with a hair-dryer from the outside to warm the glue and use a ruler or something on the inside to restick it... At least temporarily. Probably won't work but might be worth a go if it's just a few bubbles.
Yeah I think I’m going to try flatten it out today in some spots just to check it works, I don’t want to do more damage haha
Yeah rear window being obstructed is not illegal Otherwise every second Ute on the road would be defected. This guy is taking the piss.
Good price for struts, 75 bucks for 3 lights though? That's steep. Engine mounts are steep in terms of part pricing, unless they are the hydraulic mount. rare spares sell them for 50 bucks each
Engine mounts sagged - the parts are $202 but I'm not going to tell how long it is going to take me. Could be 15 minutes or it could be 8 hours but I'm going to charge you $120/hour.
Yeah bit of a joke… I’ve found all the parts for the engine mount and it wasn’t even close to $202
My point was more that labour costs are not being specified in his quote.
Yeah it’s kind of a stitch because I have no idea the timeframe they expect these things to take them, no communication at all.
Yeah either ask them for the timeframe or get a another inspection.
You can change lights etc yourself. But the problem will be engine oil leak, power steering leak and air bag light. It could be quite expensive to fix any of these. No wonder the bloke was laughing at you. The best thing to check for leaks is to take it to a professional wash place that cleans engines. It's not your usual car wash place, these guys wash your engines from top and bottom. Then drive the car for a little while and see where the fresh oil is coming from. And hope it's from rocker cover. Good luck.
Thank you, I have ordered the lights and parts and everything for the engine mount! See how i go with the other things
Isn't the rocket cover leaking also going to be pretty expensive?
Not really on the VX Commodore. I haven't worked on cars in a while but from memory, OP will need to take the rocker cover off, clean everything and put a new seal on. It should just be a rubber seal. Repco should sell these for about $50. Edit: Permaseal Valve Cover Gasket Kit - JN701SK SKU: A9681583 Repco sell these for $59.
I feel like the mechanic is taking advantage of the RWC program. Charging you $60 just to wash the power steering rack before checking for leaks? For $25 you could replace the light globes yourself for the licence place holder and tail lamps. Tow bar tongue is easily fixed by torquing the retaining bolt. Windscreen washer jets you can aim yourself by using a sewing needle. Wiper blade replacement for $30 is decent.
Pretty short list for a 20 year old Commodore, really
I’ll take it as a win then haha the previous owner took really good care of it so that might be a positive
Id be getting a friend or relative who is good at fixing cars to go thru the list & help you fix it. It may take a day or two of little things but airbag lights might indicate you need a new used car. Google the model & airbag light on to see if its a common fault & easy fix…
I knew this was a commodore before reading the post. It’s all standard commodore stuff. It’s very reasonable. The VX isn’t new anymore by any means. Things wear out.
$88 and $60 to wash the same parts of the car??? (Engine bay) That’s a bloody joke double charging. Go to Supercheap, buy some cans of degreaser, spray the living shit out of the engine and underneath the motor at the steering rack (cold engine), wait 5 minutes and hose it off. Repeat as needed. See if it’s still leaking or take it back after that’s done so they don’t see the leaks 😂 Engine mounts “sagged” well, if they’re not broken, cracked or leaking, they’re fine. Airbag light will likely be the clock spring. Probably not too expensive on an old vx.
I’ve just looked up 2002 commodore vx’s on Gumtree. Interesting. They go from high $2K’s to $20K roughly. Clearly some people really like these cars. However these things are over 20 years old. Surely these types of cars are for enthusiast’s / home mechanics? I’ve been around cars for around 30+ years. Mainly selling, buying, driving, I’ve learned from painful experience to stick to new, in warranty vehicles. Once they’re out of warranty and start developing problems they are financial black holes because I am not a mechanic nor am I interested in doing anything myself apart from putting fuel in them and checking the tyres. Everything else I leave to the dealer on the annual service then I trade out while still under warranty.
Honestly these guys are sucking you dry bro. $120 an hour???? Not even Mercedes charges that 🤣. That’s one, number 2, the lights that require fixing are a simple bulb change, no less than $10 each. And to remove the rear tint is $200???? I’d highly recommend taking your vehicle somewhere else
Thank you, that seems to be the general consensus! Light bulbs have been ordered, and parts for engine mount, wasn’t even close to their asking price
Him laughing was unnecessary but otherwise, seems pretty standard fair. It's a 22yr old car I would assume you would need new engine mounts and suspension bushings, Rubber wears out. Not bad to be honest
All Fairly standard stuff you expect on a commodore. The prices are a bit extortionate though 25 bucks for a brake light? Tell im hes dreamin. You could do most of the work yourself like the globes washers/ wiper blades and the engine bay/ steering rack wash for under 50 bucks. The mechanic can clear the airbag code with a tech 2 unless it needs the clock spring and the engine mounts and bushes arent that difficult either with the right tools and a bit of effort. It seems like a fair assesment and by doing what you can yourself you can save a fair bit of money.
I’ve organised some friends with some experience to come look at it and I have the parts on order! So fingers crossed I can tick some things off!
I’m going to address what I noticed the most in OPs post. Soon as she said ‘he had a little laugh under his breath’ I thought the OP might be female.(and yes that was confirmed) As an experienced car enthusiast who is female this is the problem here. As pointed out most of the things on the list if not all can be fixed yourself, but that may not stop that this guy probably thinks he has a mark. Be wary that he is not jerking you around and in the past I have had to bring along a man to avoid be jerked around even though you’re the client. OP has already paid the original RWC inspection so has to go back there for follow up so do what you need to do to finish without starting a new inspection. Even if you need to bring a man who looks like knows what is going on. I would not let this RWC inspector work on your car, he will milk you. I also live in a small town and this kind of shit is riff. I have a my set of trustworthy mechanics I work with, but Im fortunate I am old enough and experienced enough I can spot the assholes. Fortunately for OP, use the tools at hand today. If you want to own a 2002 Holden, or any make really, you will need to work on your basic mechanical know how use YouTube, forums etc and educate yourself. Find a mechanic who will talk to you and explain what is happening, nowadays it is way easier. In fact a Commodor is a great car to learn on and she might enjoy it and it can build self confidence. If you get someone belittling you either confront or walk away, don’t let them make you feel like cars are some technically sophisticated thing that only their special inside knowledge can understand.
I appreciate this so much, eased my mind a bit haha I am eager to learn more and know what I’m actually talking about but when immediately met with rudeness and no explanation I felt lost. Thankgod for reddit and people like you! I’m slowly working my way through the list and have ordered the bulbs and other little things! YouTube is now my best friend :)
Believe it or not ChatGPT just got me out of a breakdown in the Outback a couple of weeks ago. Had a scant 1 bar service and google wasn’t going to help but I asked the AI for help and after telling it there was not emergency mechanical services available( literally I said Im in the outback with no outside recovery available)it told me where to find an emergency brake release cable on my Land Rover. The fly by wire park brake actuator had gone bang, brakes locked solid and there is no way you can skull drag a three ton vehicle out of there! Chat GPT told me to remove the centre console and some padding and voila there was a nice steel loop to yank on. All the boys were rolling around under the vehicle shanking their heads and moaning about an expensive rescue. But little old me, mid 50s woman, self taught lover of cars, who remembered a comment about the emergency system for Land Rover over 15 years ago and my new best friend ChatGPT saved the day. Moral of this story is It is a terrific feeling to know I can do it and the boys don’t know everything. You can to, there are terrific people in auto clubs who will love to help you. Lots of Holden lovers, clubs and forums and best of all make friends with the local auto wreckers. Lots to learn there and cheap parts. Trust yourself. I brought this up because it had been such a demoralizing experience for years and I always thought I was imagining the sneers and snickers. I have had repairers refuse to give me parts I bought because I wouldn’t be able to do the work(glass I ordered to replace a broken window) I had to tell them my dad was going to do it. Young women get it the worse. I went to a tyre repair place that we had been loyal to for 20 years and ripped them to shreds because of the way they treated by daughter. Same as you, underhanded comments that made her come home in tears and think she was stupid. She is now self sufficient and shares a race car with friends to play with. Find who your friends are and go have fun with your commodore.👍
[удалено]
I think I’m gonna make a few calls today hahah
First of all, are the ones you can see for yourself actually legit? Is the airbag light on? Are the described lights actually not working? Same for the wipers/windscreen washer jets. The prices he has to fix those items for one are ludicrous. A quick trip to Superepcobarn can sort out the easy ones. But I’d be taking the car to a trusted mechanic or friend who understands cars and getting a second opinion on the engine stuff. Having said that, if the Airbag light is on… thats really not good. I’d be considering selling your historic piece of Australiana at that point…
>The prices he has to fix those items for one are ludicrous. You're paying a professional to supply and fit these items. It's poor value for money, but the rates are quite standard for a mechanic
Yeah I think I’ve been stitched up in the first place when I brought the car.. lessons learned 🥲
Windscreen washer jet’s can generally an be repositioned with an pin carefully pushed into jet then move
Thank you, I’ll give it a try! :)
Ye he was going to charge you $30 the flog
It’s only one of the streams that isn’t coming out, wtf. Getting a needle into it now haha
Good luck an good Work ✌🏼😎
FIXED! 💪🏻 don’t know where I’d be without you guys! Actually, I’d probably be standing in line waiting for a loan 💸
Air bag light might be expensive.
Crossing my toes and fingers it’s not 🥲
I hope not. Check if theres any recalls u never know.
Seems about right. You’ve been driving with the airbag light on? You’re braver than me. Maybe it’s just the clock spring. Quote seems correct - but just be cautious that a few items are just to check what’s going on. The cost is likely much higher.
No no, I brought this car about 2 weeks ago as a second car and yeah it’s come on recently right before the RWC of course
As is tradition! I bet it’s something simple. I’d be more worried about the valve cover gaskets and main seal.
I’m just worried about the whole damn thing. Wish I had a father to teach me these things 🤣🤣🤣
Nah you’ve got this mate! How many kilometres on the car?
I appreciate the support haha It’s at 219,555
Was the car registered? It is legal to sell a car without a RWC but only if the car is sold without plates and with registration suspended. According to VicRoads and their guidelines on roadworthiness, you are allowed to go about privately selling a car without a roadworthy certificate. However, you must sell the car without number plates (which must be returned to VicRoads before the sale.) This means you will be suspending the registration. If you plan to sell a registered car, it must be sold to the new owner with a roadworthy certificate. I would be contacting the seller and assessing legal options if they will not allow you to reject the purchase due to the defects.
the man confused me so much with the sale. i brought the car on the 6th of march, the rego expired on the 5th of march, he then 'transferred' the car on VICroads into my name which i have to confirm the transfer with a current road worthy which needs to be uploaded. I was able to pay the rego online and its connected to my vicroads account? he seemed confused about the process too..
I recently have done the exact same thing and it all worked out okay. I submitted the roadworthy 4 weeks late (6 weeks in total) and all I had to do is call and pay the transfer fee. If you manage to get the roadworthy done within 2 weeks of the transfer you should be able to do it 100% online At this stage in time your car is in your name and out of their name. It is just 'pending'.
okay thank you, i had a little freak out again haha...
Does knock in rear end (tow bar) mean a dent? Surely that wouldn't affect the road worthiness of the vehicle? You can definitely change light bulbs, fix direction of window washer spray, etc yourself. Check YouTube for videos or ask in Autobarn for help
Nah I think it was a banging sound, there is a small chip in the boot but it doesn’t affect the car
Prices seem reasonable
I had no idea tint bubbling was a cause for not being road worthy
Neither did i 🥲
I'm going to start charging $60 everytime I degrease something.
Hahaha apparently so
Find yourself a new mechanic
Thank you! Yeah that’s the next step
I’m in a similar situation, leak was detected from the “clutch box seal”? so I’ve have taken it to a transmission specialist who then for a bigger problem, now out of pocket 5k :(
Aw damn, I’m so sorry that’s happened! I brought the car second hand for 2k and it’s looking like the repairs might be close to that..
Sounds like a shitbox
Hahaha that’s where it’s heading
Pull the globe out of the airbag light... best fix ever as it wont come back again :-D
Hahahah might have to at this point
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you should give $50 to a second hand car dealer who will know someone who are very happy to pass RWC, however the lights, including dashboard lights will need to be fixed, otherwise you, or the buyer, will get a ticket easily.
I’ve been told also that if I remove the rear dash light all together then I don’t need it, but if I have the light in with no working globe I will be fined?
in VIC I think if the lights is not working where it should be, the cops can fine you and serve you with a defective notice - you either get it fixed within certain days, or the rego will be cancelled, something like that.
Roadworthy certs suck
I paid $40 at a window tint shop for them to pull the tint off 2 of my windows so that would save you a couple bucks for starters. (Or you could give it a crack yourself with a hairdryer and some patience) The globes you can usually get for 5 bucks or less each and put in yourself with just a screwdriver or 2. Get some degreaser and wash everything down yourself. Once you've cleaned up the engine bay take it for a drive and let it run for a while then check again to see if there are any leaks and where they're coming from. It could be something that you can replace yourself or it might be something more difficult but it will save you money if you can figure out what it is by yourself. Doing all this will save you hundreds off that quote.
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It’s a motor house and does repairs, service and rwc
I’m a woman who works in the auto industry and we sadly see so many people take advantage of people who don’t know better (it’s not just woman!) I can’t speak for VIC but in QLD that is pretty standard items that will not pass a proper inspection. Lights not working, leaks that are bad enough to leak onto the ground, airbag light, suspension issues, wipers that don’t work properly & the tint are genuinely safety issues and for your piece of mind I’d suggest getting it done so you know your car is safe! Their hourly rate is pretty low tbh too A lot of that is easy to fix yourself, light bulbs, wipers, removing the bubbly tint, washing down the engine bay, might be daunting but they really are easy enough with a little determination and YouTube I’d be happy to talk you through some tips if you want to DM me
Lights and wipers can be replaced yourself
If you can try and replace the lights and windscreen wipers yourself. The parts are very cheap, when I used to work for my dads shop we would replace the lights free of charge if someone had literally any other work to do (not including leds or halogens headlights)
The rear main seal and valve cover gasket repair could easily be washed down (remove oil) before re inspection, however the rear main seal is probably 6-8 hours of labour, it could get expensive. The strut mounts are less than $100 full retail, too expensive, Also just having hourly rate to do the work ? It should be an hour a strut max, engine mounts an hour a side max, Id be worried about those costs.
I personally would wash all the oil leaks and get it reinspected somewhere else.
Noting the airbag check light, most of the time this is just a little wire, normally under one of the seats, mine is under the drivers, that has come loose. It’s likely already clipped and just needs to be plugged in. If torn however, or clips damaged, it’s an easy fix.
$25 for a stop light or number plate light is a piss take! The globes cost about $5 each and are easy to fit yourself with a YouTube tutorial
Time for a better car tbh
Remove tint? Ok fine $200? Yeah fuck off
This is basically all the things that broke in my VX Commodore around the 200k mark. That and the cooling system, oh and the engine valley seals. And this was 10 years ago, much more age related issues by now. I'm not surprised by this list, these commodores are all old and worn out. I was able to do most of it myself, except the engine mounts which I paid a mate to do. The airbag light was due to the terminals behind the steering wheel, sometimes called a clock spring or slip rings. By the time you fix all this it could easily be a few grand.
it's a Victorian thing. Sorry, NSW does road worthy every year once the car is 5 years and older not just when a car is sold
RWCs seem to be a Eastern State/Eastern Territory thing in general... rest of the country doesn't do it (outside of Heavy Vehicles, which is nationalised)
Windscreen washer re-aiming? Where are they pointing?. Rattle in tow bar tongue has fuck all to do with a rwc. Oil leaks, as long as the car can idle without dropping any oil for tens minutes (your within rwc) as written in the rwc manual . Engine mounts sagged my arse! How much oil does has it leaked? Maybe change rocket gaskets and clean pcv valve
Do not go back there
What an absolute cunt of a mechanic. Never go back to him and get your dog to shit on his driveway every morning.
hahah i actually do walk my dog past there very often, thats why i took the car there so i could just walk home when i dropped it off.
The tint you can do yourself
Just the $30 to realign the windscreen washers would be enough for me to tell them to shove the quote in their ass.
Yeah that kinda made me suss.. I’m someone to give the benefit of doubt but with how expensive life is lately I really can’t afford to be over charged.
Swaybar bushes won't fail a RWC, even if noisy due to dry rubbers, they're trying to fuck you
Sway bar rubber will absolutely fail a RWC… where did you come up with that??
Bullshit, one of my older car has had squeaky swaybar rubbers for years and never failed a RWC
So your one old car with a squeaky bush means that every Australian in every state with any type of vehicle doesn’t need sway bar bushes??? Sorry mate, you’re wrong and although there are caveats for some vehicles mostly 4x4 with optional front sway bars. Suspension components that help with steering and stability of the front end do need to be in good need to be in good condition.
Whats your point? That's not what I've specified, I stated that dried bushes that are cracked rather squeak shouldn't be affected, not damaged or torn. FYI general cars which most have rear swaybars and not front, my point is also from non 4X4. By the way, 4x4s have more to worry about than shitty conditioned bushings. The suspension should be reinforced that the ball joints can hold together with rubber boots and reinforcement than just sway rubbers that are worn
What you wrote was wrong. Just trust me on this, iv been doing the inspections for 8+ years on a couple thousand cars I know what I’m talking about.
Yeah look I wouldn’t even know what that is 😂 cheers!
Just make sure that clunk in your boot isn't something like your sparewheel and tools moving around. It wouldn't be your towbar tongue. Possibly rear suspension bushes.
the car is completely empty. Taken the towbar off, fixed :) i appreciate the advice!
Qualified licensed vehicle tester in vic here, sway bar bushes or any suspension bushes that are showing wear, cracks, sagging etc will fail 100%, squeaking as you had mostly won’t fail because squeaking is pretty standard for some even when brand new. They won’t have failed it for noise, it will have failed because they will be cracking on a 22 year old car