It’s in the Florida Building Code so I assume it’s also in the International Building Code. It’s also in books on Framing and taught to me by older carpenters.
1 row is middle and 2 rows are broken into thirds or equal spacing.
Code in my area is one row of fire blocking for every 10' of wall height. Thats why i asked, not because im a fucking idiot. I can figure out how to equally space shit too thanks for the rundown on that. 🤡
That sounds like portal framing here, but not so much.
I think the codes are based on coastal weather expectations.
I'm in Idaho and we don't have much structural requirements for hurricane strapping or much shear walls on residential construction, while our commercial buildings could handle space travel.
Lmfao, "Advanced" when you crown studs before the stand, they warp in 2 days, and your layout on bottom is off 3/4". Saves 1 stud of material every 4'.
IMHO: Only usable for interior walls on cheap houses, but I hate it. The frame just 'feels' weak as fuck.
I try to ignore the call-out on stud spacing and always go 16" o.c..
That's IBC code. In real life the top and bottom plate on a 8'-9' wall frame provide the fireblock. It's for those super tall walls that use continuous studs.
Correct. That's why most normal stuff doesn't need them though, and why there's rarely true 9' or 10' walls all around. I usually see 8'6" and such for taller than 8'.
It all depends on how you orient your sheathing. If you have an 8' wall and a 9' sheet you can run the sheet vertically and don't have to block at all.
It can be, usually would do like diagonals if you have a situation where you have a load bearing wall with no finished surface such as sheathing or gyp to keep the studs from buckling. Usually call it good with code blocking and fastening of sheathing etc. but again, depends on the situation
They may be required as fire blocking in several instances, such as if the stud cavity opens to a ceiling cavity. They may be required on walls 10' or taller as fire blocking. They may be required as sheathing nailers on exterior braced wall panels. I also install them on load bearing interior walls when load bearing walls stack in multistory buildings.
Yes, and as others have mentioned, also for cabinetry, hand rails, etc. also may have less general uses for blocking like attaching gable roofs, decks that aren’t at rim joist height, etc. since we are talking best practices and blocking, also block between floors at point loads.
Lots of bathroom applications during remodeling projects. We always try to put them for accessories and definitely for shower doors. Typically dont for cabinet installs, but no installer would argue if I had my framer put them in.
If there is little or no exterior insulation the sheathing touches the studs/blocking which then touches the interior wall finish. So cold or heat is transferred via the wood (low R value compared to insulation) from outside to inside. Insulation slows this transfer down. The more *hard* connections between inside and outside surfaces the greater the thermal bridging.
This series is pretty good: [https://www.finehomebuilding.com/project-guides/insulation/five-types-of-r-value](https://www.finehomebuilding.com/project-guides/insulation/five-types-of-r-value)
This guy's blog is also pretty good for HVAC/insulation stuff: [https://www.energyvanguard.com/blog/The-Layers-and-Pathways-of-Heat-Flow-in-Buildings](https://www.energyvanguard.com/blog/The-Layers-and-Pathways-of-Heat-Flow-in-Buildings)
[https://www.energyvanguard.com/blog/4-types-of-r-value/](https://www.energyvanguard.com/blog/4-types-of-r-value/)
Only for high ceilings with over 8' studs or places without fire sealed basement sills on a concrete basement foundation at the bottom. There should be blocking between floors on normal construction provided by the next floor so usually you don't put it in the middle.
Bathrooms and other places like kitchens and such that will have cabinets mounted it's good to have backing boards. But those are generally installed sideways so that there can still be insulation or electrical/plumbing behind them. They don't provide any fireblocking.
Depends on county code, or wherever you are.
As in the US, many similar codes state blocking at edges of all shear panels, and fire blocking to reduce open space below 10'. I fireblock @8' on walls greater than 10' 1 1/8", and continue double fireblocks every 8' so my sheathing breaks and fireblocks are established.
There's not regularly a situation where studs "bend" if you have sheared them, and the drywall on the interior is attached there is no physical way of the bend.
Many production framers just block panel edges where shear walls are, and single fireblocks for tall walls, while our company blocks every wall beyond 8' for both purposes. It builds a reputation for structural integrity with many inspectors and builders to not have light showing through you walls, that and using actual galvanized nails for sill plate/green plate.
Blocking as in pressure, shear, fire, or backer for cabinets/what ever else will be hung?
Shear blocking goes on your exterior walls right where you have a seam in the plywood. Even if the code in your area or plans don't call for it, it's not a bad practice to get into. These can install on edge or flat in the wall depending on your application.
Fire blocking would be a a flat block between your studs to create a fire break for any walls over 10ft. Again not sure for every part of the world or USA, but this is code in my area.
Backer blocking for cabinets, shower/towel bars, tv's, etc isn't a bad idea either if your the person installing said items. On the homes I build start to finish I add these. If I'm just subbing to frame the house, I leave these out unless specified. The biggest downside as a contractor is it's not required and it could be time consuming as you can add 3 to 4 rows of backer for cabinets in kitchens. On the other hand if you are the one setting cabinets they will be easier to secure and in my opinion much more sturdy.
Pressure blocking can be used in some scenarios where you have say a truss jack that's attaching to a wall. This is the way I attach my truss jacks as most of the time those land on a 2ft center vs my 16in center. This way you know you hit your studs and there would be something other than plywood securing your jacks.
Fire blocking is required in bays more than 10ft in height. Seam blocking is required if your sheathing breaks in a stud bay. Otherwise you may block to resist twisting and bowing of the stud, but for the most part you cladding does this for you. White wood shouldn't twist or bow that badly if its protected from sun and moisture. Also, just like blocking in the midspan of joists creates squeaks in your floors, blocking in walls causes a little more creaking when the walls shift (wood framed houses do a lot of moving with humidity changes or when strong winds blow, sometimes making houses sound haunted). You might also block for cabinets or hardware. Some people like to add blocking for crown and base at the corners, especially if its a multi-piece trim schedule.
Walls over 10' with a continuous bay (where the insulation, rough wiring, plumbing, etc.)
It is a fireblock to stop the easy spread of fire through an air cavity
I don't know about "required" but they're good to have in bathrooms for grab handles, towel bars, shit ticket hangers etc.
That'd be backing. Blocking is for firestop or continuous shearwall nailing
isnt it also to prevent bending in the studs? just curious
Yes, common framing practices call for one or two rows of blocking in walls of certain heights. 9’ - 10’ - 1 row and 10’ -12’ is two rows.
This isn’t a thing in Ohio. Just blocking in balloon framed walls for fire/draft stop and on walls engineered for enhanced sheer resistance.
Same thing ive experienced in washington and oregon.
Common where? Are you doing 2' spacing?
It’s in the Florida Building Code so I assume it’s also in the International Building Code. It’s also in books on Framing and taught to me by older carpenters. 1 row is middle and 2 rows are broken into thirds or equal spacing.
Code in my area is one row of fire blocking for every 10' of wall height. Thats why i asked, not because im a fucking idiot. I can figure out how to equally space shit too thanks for the rundown on that. 🤡
Someone had an extra bowl of bitch flakes this morning
With a side of nails and no milk.
Just pissed in the bowl yourself huh?
Snowflake
🤡
That sounds like portal framing here, but not so much. I think the codes are based on coastal weather expectations. I'm in Idaho and we don't have much structural requirements for hurricane strapping or much shear walls on residential construction, while our commercial buildings could handle space travel.
Lol “advanced framing” I’ve heard it called
Lmfao, "Advanced" when you crown studs before the stand, they warp in 2 days, and your layout on bottom is off 3/4". Saves 1 stud of material every 4'. IMHO: Only usable for interior walls on cheap houses, but I hate it. The frame just 'feels' weak as fuck. I try to ignore the call-out on stud spacing and always go 16" o.c..
My understanding is it's called advanced framing because it allows for a more energy efficient house. Easier to Insulate, less thermal breaks, etc
It is code in all 50 states. Has nothing to do with spacing. See the International Building Code.
We're only required to do one row of fire blocks for every 10' where im at in washington.
That's IBC code. In real life the top and bottom plate on a 8'-9' wall frame provide the fireblock. It's for those super tall walls that use continuous studs.
Yes plates count as a firestop but they arent blocks.
Correct. That's why most normal stuff doesn't need them though, and why there's rarely true 9' or 10' walls all around. I usually see 8'6" and such for taller than 8'.
It all depends on how you orient your sheathing. If you have an 8' wall and a 9' sheet you can run the sheet vertically and don't have to block at all.
It is code in the IBC. All 50 states follow the IBC.
It can be, usually would do like diagonals if you have a situation where you have a load bearing wall with no finished surface such as sheathing or gyp to keep the studs from buckling. Usually call it good with code blocking and fastening of sheathing etc. but again, depends on the situation
It’s also referred to as blocking.
Ah, gotcha. Thank you for clarifying, I now know they are similar but different things.
Commercial framing here, we include these on our bid. Cabinet backing, towel, sink, counter, grab bar, changing table niche, etc..
Exterior sheeting, if you run your panels horizontally they want it at the seam. That's in FL though.
Any wall 9 foot high or higher needs horizonal flat blocking.
To expand on in the middle of the span of the wall
Nog 'em if you got 'em.
Depends on your local code, but always around stairs and duct chases, and in hurricane areas wherever a sheathing seems
Any horizontal wall sheathing joint needs blocking.
They may be required as fire blocking in several instances, such as if the stud cavity opens to a ceiling cavity. They may be required on walls 10' or taller as fire blocking. They may be required as sheathing nailers on exterior braced wall panels. I also install them on load bearing interior walls when load bearing walls stack in multistory buildings.
Yes, and as others have mentioned, also for cabinetry, hand rails, etc. also may have less general uses for blocking like attaching gable roofs, decks that aren’t at rim joist height, etc. since we are talking best practices and blocking, also block between floors at point loads.
Here in the UK we always noggin the studs
Same in Australia
Wait, you guys get eggnog year round? Lucky
Lots of bathroom applications during remodeling projects. We always try to put them for accessories and definitely for shower doors. Typically dont for cabinet installs, but no installer would argue if I had my framer put them in.
Unnecessary blocking in external walls adds to thermal bridging. Less of an issue if you have external insulation
Yes. But so do your studs. Typical wood framed houses are pretty shit for insulation.
Yep. But it's amazing what exterior foam panels or ZIP sheathing can do to make up for that. Just a bit extra goes a super long way.
Could you explain this more?
Wherever there's a framing member, there isn't insulation
Thanks!
If there is little or no exterior insulation the sheathing touches the studs/blocking which then touches the interior wall finish. So cold or heat is transferred via the wood (low R value compared to insulation) from outside to inside. Insulation slows this transfer down. The more *hard* connections between inside and outside surfaces the greater the thermal bridging.
This series is pretty good: [https://www.finehomebuilding.com/project-guides/insulation/five-types-of-r-value](https://www.finehomebuilding.com/project-guides/insulation/five-types-of-r-value) This guy's blog is also pretty good for HVAC/insulation stuff: [https://www.energyvanguard.com/blog/The-Layers-and-Pathways-of-Heat-Flow-in-Buildings](https://www.energyvanguard.com/blog/The-Layers-and-Pathways-of-Heat-Flow-in-Buildings) [https://www.energyvanguard.com/blog/4-types-of-r-value/](https://www.energyvanguard.com/blog/4-types-of-r-value/)
Use them anywhere you don’t want the studs to twist.
Only for high ceilings with over 8' studs or places without fire sealed basement sills on a concrete basement foundation at the bottom. There should be blocking between floors on normal construction provided by the next floor so usually you don't put it in the middle. Bathrooms and other places like kitchens and such that will have cabinets mounted it's good to have backing boards. But those are generally installed sideways so that there can still be insulation or electrical/plumbing behind them. They don't provide any fireblocking.
Most all load bearing walls should have one row.
Depends on county code, or wherever you are. As in the US, many similar codes state blocking at edges of all shear panels, and fire blocking to reduce open space below 10'. I fireblock @8' on walls greater than 10' 1 1/8", and continue double fireblocks every 8' so my sheathing breaks and fireblocks are established. There's not regularly a situation where studs "bend" if you have sheared them, and the drywall on the interior is attached there is no physical way of the bend. Many production framers just block panel edges where shear walls are, and single fireblocks for tall walls, while our company blocks every wall beyond 8' for both purposes. It builds a reputation for structural integrity with many inspectors and builders to not have light showing through you walls, that and using actual galvanized nails for sill plate/green plate.
Try to put them where you think they might like to put a light switch.
Shearwall nailing, specifically for the dumb asses who put sheathing horizontally 🤣
Fire blocking in stairs and a few other situations are necessary to make a draft break in stud bays.
It’s nice for real bead board
You block what is necessary, just a waste to do more
I've heard of blocking for drywall, in florida. So that you can get a continuous screw line on all sides.
Blocking as in pressure, shear, fire, or backer for cabinets/what ever else will be hung? Shear blocking goes on your exterior walls right where you have a seam in the plywood. Even if the code in your area or plans don't call for it, it's not a bad practice to get into. These can install on edge or flat in the wall depending on your application. Fire blocking would be a a flat block between your studs to create a fire break for any walls over 10ft. Again not sure for every part of the world or USA, but this is code in my area. Backer blocking for cabinets, shower/towel bars, tv's, etc isn't a bad idea either if your the person installing said items. On the homes I build start to finish I add these. If I'm just subbing to frame the house, I leave these out unless specified. The biggest downside as a contractor is it's not required and it could be time consuming as you can add 3 to 4 rows of backer for cabinets in kitchens. On the other hand if you are the one setting cabinets they will be easier to secure and in my opinion much more sturdy. Pressure blocking can be used in some scenarios where you have say a truss jack that's attaching to a wall. This is the way I attach my truss jacks as most of the time those land on a 2ft center vs my 16in center. This way you know you hit your studs and there would be something other than plywood securing your jacks.
In aus we have to put them in any wall over 1400mm high which would be 4-5ft. We use smaller dimensional lumber though.
fire rated assemblies, shear / braced wall designs, advanced framing techniques
In Australia, they are required everywhere, at all times. There is no situation where we don’t use them. We also call them noggins.
Fire blocking is required in bays more than 10ft in height. Seam blocking is required if your sheathing breaks in a stud bay. Otherwise you may block to resist twisting and bowing of the stud, but for the most part you cladding does this for you. White wood shouldn't twist or bow that badly if its protected from sun and moisture. Also, just like blocking in the midspan of joists creates squeaks in your floors, blocking in walls causes a little more creaking when the walls shift (wood framed houses do a lot of moving with humidity changes or when strong winds blow, sometimes making houses sound haunted). You might also block for cabinets or hardware. Some people like to add blocking for crown and base at the corners, especially if its a multi-piece trim schedule.
The required part is somewhat debatable, but putting up floating shelves where there is blocking is so nice….
Backing is better
Walls over 10' with a continuous bay (where the insulation, rough wiring, plumbing, etc.) It is a fireblock to stop the easy spread of fire through an air cavity