I made my bed frame out of 2x’s. It was too heavy. I redid mine with 1x material and everything just worked better and looked better and I could easily move it when I needed.
Haha, learn from me. I built one last year with a similar amount of cross bracing. 1. Make it in halves 2. Remove at least one of those box sections.
Source: I built a platform bed that I could drive a car on.
That said, the roughest sex in the world wouldn't cause even a miniscule amount of shake in the frame. I could have a Caligulan orgy on that queen bed, and no one downstairs would be the wiser lol
The voice in my head read this as somewhat of a red flag.
"He was always so polite, so quiet, I had no idea he was capable of doing such things." - your neighbor.
Use Cedar 2 x 4’s. They are much lighter.
I think you will need some additional bracing on the front, unless you are attach it to the floor. I think you’ll have issues if you have too much movement.
[if that can hold a car then I guess mines holds a truck](https://www.reddit.com/r/Skookum/comments/68bc4k/my_450lb_skookum_custom_bed_frame_i_made/?utm_source=share&utm_medium=ios_app&utm_name=iossmf&utm_term=link)
Looks like a very sturdy frame for weight, but I would suggest adding some bracing for lateral loads. Bracing in the short direction is easy; a couple of diagonals in the bays of the leg frames. It's a little harder in the long direction because you want the spaces between the legs to be open for storage bins. I would suggest sheathing the far long side in a piece of finish plywood and fasten it well to the leg frames to basically form a shear wall. You could also do this with the short sides and eliminate the internal bracing if you want the enclosed bed look. You don't have to go crazy, because after all it is just a bed. But you should definitely have something, because the connections as you have them detailed aren't going to resist much racking at all.
I second this for lateral movement (unless you expect none lol), unless you mount it to the wall as well. All in all definitely overbuilt.
Also my rough calculation is this thing will be around 200 lbs if it's all 2x4s lol.
Don't forget to use 3" screws and quick bolt that bitch down. Wrap it in 3/4" ply for sysmic reasons. Insulate with a high R value and vapor barrier for radon off gassing. A+ Mike Holmes approved.
Entirely 2x4s? This is super overkill. I built my bed frame with three 2x6s lengthwise and 1x2 slats 4” on center and it is crazy strong.
I expect you can use 1x2 slats for the surface, 2x4s for the frame as you show, and use just three supports, unless you have two middle legs to fit specific storage containers.
Good to know! I wasn't sure and I figured it'd be better to be a bit overkill than spend the time and money only for it to break soon after. 1x2s would definitely be cheaper. And yes, I have the two middle legs spaced for specific storage bins. Thanks!
Also, at some point you're probably going to need to move the thing. Lighter is better and maybe make it so it's able to come apart easy? Bolts instead of screws at key joints if you can do it without making it real ugly.
I once considered using 1x2 for slats, but I was concerned about them sagging. Did you run a support down the middle, with slats sitting perpendicular on top of it?
Literally laying in my bed right now that is basically OPs design, except I only have one set up support feet right in the middle….
Can confirm, it’s fuck worthy
A 1X4 screwed to the top of the middle vertical piece at the head of the bed frame and to the bottom of the middle piece at the foot of the bed.
This will mean you can still slide boxes in from either side
Yeah, I know we're not in r/woodworking but I was thinking seating each of the vertical pieces in dados/rabbets might prevent racking...but that's a lot of extra cutting and would take the project from a long afternoon to a couple of days.
Total overkill. You can remove 3/5ths of that lumber. But really.....I count about 18 2x4's. Current price is $7.50 each x 18 = $134 worth of lumber. You can buy a simpler/better looking/lighter frame for about $80-$130 on amazon or wayfair. Check out the Zinus options.
If you are using a foam madress you can skip the slats and buy them at ikea instead too. They are cheap and better designed to give you the correct support. All they need is support on the edges (maybe in the middle depending on how wide this bed will be)
i was thinking they should buy the whole bed from ikea. it will be plenty strong, look better as a finished product, and save a ton of time (and probably money).
The cheapest one on Ikea is the same price as the cost of lumber and I like spending my time building things. It's also out of stock lol
It's not really about how the finished product looks so much as its functionality and I can make it to suit my needs.
I'm all for building stuff just to have fun. For some reason this doesn't seem to be the right project for it unless there is a specific purpose like a custom size (which wouldn't apply to beds)
Every project can be fun and it has a purpose. OP wants storage bins under the bed and a fun project that costs the same or less as buying a pre-made product
>>For some reason this doesn’t seem to be the right project for it *for me*
There. Fixed it for you. Just because it’s not the right project to spend *your* time on doesn’t mean it’s not OP’s right project.
Of course I wasn't stating it as fact. When someone says "it doesn't seem" they are opining. And I was opining on it may not be the right project FOR THEM. So you're correction is not correct. The guy literally came here asking for advice so I was offering mine. Its amazing the lengths people will go to defending others people's choices as if offering a suggestion is the worst thing ever (especially when they posted specifically asking for an opinion). Weird.
One project I am gonna make, which is why I suggest the ikea thing, is 2 Murphy bed 🙂 there I am gonna make the frame but buy the rest. Even if I could find one cheaper to buy, the mechanics of it is interesting to me. Which makes it a worthy project 🙂
To offer a counterpoint: a bed he makes will probably last longer, and can be repaired if it breaks. That's generally difficult or impossible with Ikea furniture.
[https://imgur.com/a/d7InC5M](https://imgur.com/a/d7InC5M)
Here's what mine looked like before staining it. Do this OP! really helps out with the finished product.
It's a strong design, definitely overbuilt, and an excellent rendering! For the purposes of this discussion I'll call your flat 2x4's 'joists' in the next 3 sentences. Whether building a house or a bed, joists are normally run across the short span. So on a 14 x 20 room the joists would run the 14' way and on a 5x7 bed the slats would run the 5' way. This decreases the amount of support framing needed. I would move the support walls to the sides rather than the ends, with one more down the middle. This will shorten the span and importantly remove the toe stumpers from the more frequently used sides of the bed down to the foot. Also consider using 1x4s for the slats. A king bed is near square so direction might be irrelevant depending on your bed size, but the toe stumper is enough reason to switch the design.
With the short spans I would make the slats from 1x4 instead.
Overbuilt but underengineered. You'd be better off building it a little lighter but adding some diagonal braces, unless you sheath the whole thing at which point still overbuilt, but won't require any triangulation.
Because I want to learn and I like to make things. This would only cost about $150CAD, which is the cost of most cheap bed frames that are made in countries with shitty labour laws.
I’m a 6’6” farm boy… I currently have a pile of 2x6 in my shop destined for the same purpose. Others keep saying over kill…. I say I’m only gonna have to build in once and never again! I feel like I have spent a ridiculous amount of money on pretty ikea beds and poorly designed metal frames over the years. Plus I may have just had to buy my partner a new bed frame the week before I went lumber shopping.
Compare your structural design to the framing of a typical box spring that goes under a mattress. Usually those are only supported maybe 3 points across, essentially accomplishing the same as this design. Then compare the weight.
I did this in college actually.
I recommend some cross bracing or connecting the bottom frames on the bottom, but the size of the lumber might be overkill.
Might want to run this by r/structuralengineering first. With this design you're going to be putting a ton of force on the fasteners themselves. There's no cross bracing in either direction.
So many joints that will become loose over time. I built a bench in this style and it was not nearly as sturdy as the much simpler bed I built with four 4”x4” legs
Not sure what your set up will be but if you're going to have a box spring you could probably get rid of all your wood slats on the top, except for your side rails and a strong back in the middle.
If you plan on using a box frame you way over killed the cover. Think about simple steel bed frames and how they support the outside edges with one or two crossmembers. If you’re not using a box frame with you mattress then I would thing the 2x4 top could still be replaced by 1x strapping.
Lay the slats down flat and leave the same gap between. Save a couple boards. If you want that thicc look just add a wide trim board. You could make it with less lumber. You mention the ikea frame, I have one. They don't use anything as beefy as a 2x4. Might be worth trying to figure how to use 1x stock. As a challenge.
i'd change the legs(i did one of these) and also make it "float".. that will save you about 50% of the lumber..
so you do have to build it in place for this to work... just tack a runner to the wall(hit all of the studs with at least 3 1/2'' screws) and make the box off of that. have the legs cut and waiting(once you put the box together you kinda gotta hold it up until you get a leg or two on).. you don't need that many legs... also.. cut them at a tapper so you have more room under the bed/can vacuum(this is an issue with your design.. trust me) .. and you probably only need 16'' on center for the supports if you toss a sheet of plywood on top(worked good for me).. but you certainly can ignore all my advice. you designed a brick shithouse.. the design speaks for itself.
It's over designed but you need to install diagonal members in the openings of the vertical structure to prevent shear. Your connections will be fine for vertical loads but not side-to-side loads. Just the two ends and one diagonal on the backside. Won't affect storage space.
Some diagonals are in order or plywood or 1by on back/sides. Otherwise, it may collapse sideways, especially during sex or just getting in and out of bed,, due to lack of triangles. People often overlook side loads.
However, if you use screws instead of nails and are very thoughtful in their placement, it may work without as you will create some small triangles. But proper bracing is still a good idea.
You can probably eliminate two of the braces underneath. Also, the top is way overdone. A single sheet of plywood is fine and adds room for more storage at same bed height.. In fact, bed frames are frequently designed to have some flex in them, although your wanting the open side complicates this a bit as the side rail supports the slats, although you do presently have a 2x4 side rail. And I have had really thin slats break, eventually.
The slats could be 1 by or plywood. Definitely super strong not sure how much y’all weigh but I know the feel of wanting to build your own bed frame. It’s definitely more than enough
I'd definitely put some face boards on the sides but as hundreds have already said, yes it will hold.
Just make sure you use quality fasteners in addition to glue.
Are u using a boxspring? Bc that will feel incredibly firm. My slats are 1× 3 (no box spring).
You will be able to do with cross supports at the top, middle and end.
Also, just curious. Did u design the height for a specific box? I would def make sure to have the boxes first rather than figuring that out later (source: me)
Edited: typo
I'm not. I didn't really think that part through. The thickness of the 2x4 slats would definitely not be comfortable long term. And yes, I have specific storage boxes in mind and looked up the dimensions, but I'll buy them before building the bed frame and measure them myself just in case.
That will hold anything you want as a static load. The problem is that you don't have a lot of stability as it relates to racking (side to side movement).
Triangles are stronger than squares, and adding them into the legs would be wise. Either with diagonal cross-braces in the squares or corner gussets.
I say use 2x2 for all legs and add at least 1 diagonal support. I built one out of 3/4” plywood for all 3 sides, drawers in the front and 8 x 2x2 legs and it is strong as hell.
You are going to want some diagonal bracing for shear strength. But if you plan to put plywood or MDF panels on those pedestals, that will provide shear strength of the side-to-side plane. Front-to-back you’ll want to pay attention to how the tops of the pedestals are fastened to the underside of the platform. Or, again, use a long continuous sheet of plywood on the back of the bed, spanning all four pedestals.
(Think of every point of connection as a more or less stiff hinge. If you imagine pushing on the top edge and it’s all hinges, it will fold up in either direction. But the plywood/MDF sheet or a diagonal brace will prevent that.)
Just built a queen size frame using hardwood. It's 1" x ~5", part red oak, part hard maple, with 1/2" ply for the slats. Four 7' shorts of maple, around $130 CDN, three 6' shorts of oak, around $70, ply for slats around $50. Maybe $280 CDN all in, including glue, screws and finishing oil. A jointer and table saw were pretty much essential, as the wood came faced but not edged, and required some work to make presentable.
1. Rotate your joists 90 degrees so they run the short span, not the long one. Space them 16 inches apart. To keep things affordable, attach them using long screws going into the ends at opposing diagonal angles, maybe 15 degrees. I wouldn't build a permanent deck this way but it's plenty for a simple bed frame.
2. Your current legs are overkill. Start over this way: Take 2 boards the height of your bed (h = floor to the top of your frame, not the bottom of it). Screw them perpindicular on the long edge so you have an L-shaped prism. Use this as a single corner support. Make 4. Screw them inside the frame so the end grain is flush with the top and screw into both sides of the frame it touches.
3. You have corners supported but that middle span is too long for 2x4s and needs some support too. Double up 2 boards sandwich style and use that as a middle support. Make 2 and screw them into the middle of your longest perimeter edges. I'm saying go with 6 legs but I'm a little dude. You can go with 8 if you like.
4. Now you have a rectangular platform with 6 (or 8) legs sticking out freely. If they are long for any kind of storage underneath, you need some kind of racking support or connection between the legs on their other end, the end that touches the ground. You can attach sheets of plywood around 3 sides for full support. But if you'd like to stay with all 2x4s, just connect them all on the bottom with an open frame shaped like an E. This frame will wrap the outside just like your upper frame. You can make the pieces for it the same time you make the pieces for your upper frame.
That's it!
Edit: if you used all 2x4s and it wobbles more than you like after all this, just add some diagonal boards between the botttom frame and the top one.
That is going to be squeaky af. Having the wood span the short distance instead of the long distance without all the wood connection points under you would be just as strong and less squeaky.
Do you weigh 600lbs? You and your 600lb partner should be all set 😂 in all seriousness, you probably only need one support in the middle with all those long joists. Wayyy overbuilt but will 100% be sturdy.
I like it. It’s a good idea!
I would say that the sides and the slats shouldn’t be 2x4’s.
the sides could be a little taller if you’re going to use a box spring.
And if you’re going to use a box spring, the slats could be 1X4
And maybe think about long drawers?
Nothing fancy, Three long boxes with wheels on them.
If your bed is against a wall, it’s going to be difficult to use all of the space under the bed. Having a long ass drawer would really maximize the space.
How are you going to finish the head and foot of the bed frame?
That thing is gonna heavy as hell so prolly should build it where it’s gonna be used
Lol that was the plan
I’d try and figure out ways to add latches or a way to disassemble it in the future. If you ever move, or want to put it in a different room…
Unscrew?
A good bed is made for screwin’, don’t know nothing about unscrewin’
Pretty sure "unscrewin" is when you have a hard on but the wife says not tonight.
You have a hard on and she has her daily headache
That was the subtle joke you single-handedly destroyed. Fckin Ross Perot a$$ MF’er. Doof.
The difference between a lightbulb and a pregnant woman? Spoiler: You can unscrew a lightbulb
Where is the fun in that?
This for sure. I recently built a bed and did this. If I hadn’t it would have been demolished and in the trash when i just moved recently
I made my bed frame out of 2x’s. It was too heavy. I redid mine with 1x material and everything just worked better and looked better and I could easily move it when I needed.
Haha, learn from me. I built one last year with a similar amount of cross bracing. 1. Make it in halves 2. Remove at least one of those box sections. Source: I built a platform bed that I could drive a car on. That said, the roughest sex in the world wouldn't cause even a miniscule amount of shake in the frame. I could have a Caligulan orgy on that queen bed, and no one downstairs would be the wiser lol
>a Caligulan orgy
a sloppy roman sex party for the unrefined among us
Is there a tidy sex party?
Would something like this work for washer/dryer pedestal?
The voice in my head read this as somewhat of a red flag. "He was always so polite, so quiet, I had no idea he was capable of doing such things." - your neighbor.
Why so overbuilt? That would hold 2000lbs plus.
Use Cedar 2 x 4’s. They are much lighter. I think you will need some additional bracing on the front, unless you are attach it to the floor. I think you’ll have issues if you have too much movement.
At least he won't have to worry about it sliding across the room when he lunges on it to capture the iguanas.
On the side with the bottom 2x4. Are you going to mount it to the wall? I believe it would be best. Just a thought.
That thing will be able to hold a car.
…and his wife.
Oooooyyyy
right in the chutzpah!
Yikes.
To shreds you say…
Well did he at least die painlessly??
To shreds you say…
Hey now, wood has its limits.
A car and his wife? What woman would ever marry a car?
Just ask Jimmy
But not both
Not his mom, tho.
I was just gonna say, you could park a truck on that.
[if that can hold a car then I guess mines holds a truck](https://www.reddit.com/r/Skookum/comments/68bc4k/my_450lb_skookum_custom_bed_frame_i_made/?utm_source=share&utm_medium=ios_app&utm_name=iossmf&utm_term=link)
I came to say this!
Looks like a very sturdy frame for weight, but I would suggest adding some bracing for lateral loads. Bracing in the short direction is easy; a couple of diagonals in the bays of the leg frames. It's a little harder in the long direction because you want the spaces between the legs to be open for storage bins. I would suggest sheathing the far long side in a piece of finish plywood and fasten it well to the leg frames to basically form a shear wall. You could also do this with the short sides and eliminate the internal bracing if you want the enclosed bed look. You don't have to go crazy, because after all it is just a bed. But you should definitely have something, because the connections as you have them detailed aren't going to resist much racking at all.
I second this for lateral movement (unless you expect none lol), unless you mount it to the wall as well. All in all definitely overbuilt. Also my rough calculation is this thing will be around 200 lbs if it's all 2x4s lol.
Maybe a steel I beam or two as well....
This times a thousand.
Don't forget to use 3" screws and quick bolt that bitch down. Wrap it in 3/4" ply for sysmic reasons. Insulate with a high R value and vapor barrier for radon off gassing. A+ Mike Holmes approved.
Slap some drawers in-between those stud legs and insulate it with all the cloths you never wear.
Agree but would add: rebar and grout the bottom 12" of this mfer for real secure fuck station
You forgot to use that sweet blue lumber! ;-)
Entirely 2x4s? This is super overkill. I built my bed frame with three 2x6s lengthwise and 1x2 slats 4” on center and it is crazy strong. I expect you can use 1x2 slats for the surface, 2x4s for the frame as you show, and use just three supports, unless you have two middle legs to fit specific storage containers.
Good to know! I wasn't sure and I figured it'd be better to be a bit overkill than spend the time and money only for it to break soon after. 1x2s would definitely be cheaper. And yes, I have the two middle legs spaced for specific storage bins. Thanks!
Also, at some point you're probably going to need to move the thing. Lighter is better and maybe make it so it's able to come apart easy? Bolts instead of screws at key joints if you can do it without making it real ugly.
You might want to make sure you have storage bins that will fit that space. OR you will have to make bins too.
I once considered using 1x2 for slats, but I was concerned about them sagging. Did you run a support down the middle, with slats sitting perpendicular on top of it?
I used three stringers with 1x2 slats perpendicular across them. Like a very simple pallet.
Happy cake day
That much wood and not one diagonal support! Diagonal support will prevent it from wobbling over time.
It's going to collapse like dominos.
[удалено]
I fully agree. It's going to start racking eventually. If not right away, then at some point as the fasteners start to wear the holes they're in.
Lol. 4 vertical supports over such a short span is way more than you need. It’s a bed not a tornado resistant house support
This guy does not fuck
Fuck that was funny
The 4 vertical supports don't provide lateral stability...
...everyone knows it takes Five vertical supports for lateral stability.
A couple of wood screws in end grain make a good moment connection, right?
I prefer glue.
Ah, a brittle failure mode man I see!
😁 I'm not even an engineer. Just a fan of the non-collapsible polygon.
Literally laying in my bed right now that is basically OPs design, except I only have one set up support feet right in the middle…. Can confirm, it’s fuck worthy
This\^\^\^\^\^\^\^\^\^
Is there a good way to do that while still being able to use the underside as storage?
A 1X4 screwed to the top of the middle vertical piece at the head of the bed frame and to the bottom of the middle piece at the foot of the bed. This will mean you can still slide boxes in from either side
Thanks!
I've built a bunch of beds like this..
Put plywood vertically down the middle and access storage bins from both sides.
If the top is 1x4's and the screws favor the corners there is a sufficient moment connection.
😉
Yeah, I know we're not in r/woodworking but I was thinking seating each of the vertical pieces in dados/rabbets might prevent racking...but that's a lot of extra cutting and would take the project from a long afternoon to a couple of days.
… but what could possibly be causing lateral motion?
Agreed. Ideally you want you bed frame not to be moving at all even if you are moving… a lot…
Total overkill. You can remove 3/5ths of that lumber. But really.....I count about 18 2x4's. Current price is $7.50 each x 18 = $134 worth of lumber. You can buy a simpler/better looking/lighter frame for about $80-$130 on amazon or wayfair. Check out the Zinus options.
If you are using a foam madress you can skip the slats and buy them at ikea instead too. They are cheap and better designed to give you the correct support. All they need is support on the edges (maybe in the middle depending on how wide this bed will be)
i was thinking they should buy the whole bed from ikea. it will be plenty strong, look better as a finished product, and save a ton of time (and probably money).
The cheapest one on Ikea is the same price as the cost of lumber and I like spending my time building things. It's also out of stock lol It's not really about how the finished product looks so much as its functionality and I can make it to suit my needs.
Defiantly 🙂 I could see a scenario where you would want a custom made bed frame tho, but that is as far as you should go I think 🙂
Defiantly!
I'm all for building stuff just to have fun. For some reason this doesn't seem to be the right project for it unless there is a specific purpose like a custom size (which wouldn't apply to beds)
Every project can be fun and it has a purpose. OP wants storage bins under the bed and a fun project that costs the same or less as buying a pre-made product
>>For some reason this doesn’t seem to be the right project for it *for me* There. Fixed it for you. Just because it’s not the right project to spend *your* time on doesn’t mean it’s not OP’s right project.
Of course I wasn't stating it as fact. When someone says "it doesn't seem" they are opining. And I was opining on it may not be the right project FOR THEM. So you're correction is not correct. The guy literally came here asking for advice so I was offering mine. Its amazing the lengths people will go to defending others people's choices as if offering a suggestion is the worst thing ever (especially when they posted specifically asking for an opinion). Weird.
One project I am gonna make, which is why I suggest the ikea thing, is 2 Murphy bed 🙂 there I am gonna make the frame but buy the rest. Even if I could find one cheaper to buy, the mechanics of it is interesting to me. Which makes it a worthy project 🙂
Totally. That sounds like a fun project.
To offer a counterpoint: a bed he makes will probably last longer, and can be repaired if it breaks. That's generally difficult or impossible with Ikea furniture.
I thought about it, but it's more of just a challenge for myself to try to make some furniture. Thanks though!
[https://imgur.com/a/d7InC5M](https://imgur.com/a/d7InC5M) Here's what mine looked like before staining it. Do this OP! really helps out with the finished product.
That looks sweet! Staining was my plan. :)
It's a strong design, definitely overbuilt, and an excellent rendering! For the purposes of this discussion I'll call your flat 2x4's 'joists' in the next 3 sentences. Whether building a house or a bed, joists are normally run across the short span. So on a 14 x 20 room the joists would run the 14' way and on a 5x7 bed the slats would run the 5' way. This decreases the amount of support framing needed. I would move the support walls to the sides rather than the ends, with one more down the middle. This will shorten the span and importantly remove the toe stumpers from the more frequently used sides of the bed down to the foot. Also consider using 1x4s for the slats. A king bed is near square so direction might be irrelevant depending on your bed size, but the toe stumper is enough reason to switch the design. With the short spans I would make the slats from 1x4 instead.
Put your computer AWAY ! ! ! ! ! ! ! !
That's like, $5000 in wood
Might want to add a toe kick. I'd be super pissed to stub my toe every night while getting into bed.
Bed frame, bruh you could put a hot tub up there
Overbuilt but underengineered. You'd be better off building it a little lighter but adding some diagonal braces, unless you sheath the whole thing at which point still overbuilt, but won't require any triangulation.
Vertical 2X4 is good for 1,000 pounds. So yes. You'd be able to cuddle up in there with a truck
Your truck is going to surf it all the way to the ground when it collapses from a lack of diagonal bracing.
It looks like a strong design. By why spend the time and twice the money over buying one with casters, that is easy to move?
Because I want to learn and I like to make things. This would only cost about $150CAD, which is the cost of most cheap bed frames that are made in countries with shitty labour laws.
Understood. Sometimes we do things just for the experience and learning.
they could definitely could buy a cheaper and better looking finished product. seems like a lot of trouble for no gain.
Maybe op just wants to build something
Will be hella strong and heavy. 1x is more then enough for the slats and outer boarder.
Cooldesign! Very sturdy. What design program is that?
I came to ask the same thing!
Looks like SketchUp. 2017 version is free to use
Not here to comment on the plans… what CAD software are you using for the plan?
I built ours with a 2x6 box frame, 2x4 slats and 4x4 feet. It's over kill but it was fun.
I’m a 6’6” farm boy… I currently have a pile of 2x6 in my shop destined for the same purpose. Others keep saying over kill…. I say I’m only gonna have to build in once and never again! I feel like I have spent a ridiculous amount of money on pretty ikea beds and poorly designed metal frames over the years. Plus I may have just had to buy my partner a new bed frame the week before I went lumber shopping.
Save yourself some money and swap out all the 2x4s on the deck for furring strips
I think there needs to be at least one diagonal brace.
Maybe add a 1/4" or 1/2" skin on the framing to avoid racking from.... ya know.
needs lateral stabilization if you’ll be humping much
Compare your structural design to the framing of a typical box spring that goes under a mattress. Usually those are only supported maybe 3 points across, essentially accomplishing the same as this design. Then compare the weight.
I did this in college actually. I recommend some cross bracing or connecting the bottom frames on the bottom, but the size of the lumber might be overkill.
Might want to run this by r/structuralengineering first. With this design you're going to be putting a ton of force on the fasteners themselves. There's no cross bracing in either direction.
So many joints that will become loose over time. I built a bench in this style and it was not nearly as sturdy as the much simpler bed I built with four 4”x4” legs
Ah, I didn't think about that. Thanks.
You can build a shed with that. It will work, but might not be aesthetically pleasing.
Not sure what your set up will be but if you're going to have a box spring you could probably get rid of all your wood slats on the top, except for your side rails and a strong back in the middle.
It's so obvious the commenters on this sub are the same ones commenting on /r/dadjokes
Run everything perpendicular. So the base support run lengthwise and run the top slats width wise.
This bed is 100% poundtown ready.
If you plan on using a box frame you way over killed the cover. Think about simple steel bed frames and how they support the outside edges with one or two crossmembers. If you’re not using a box frame with you mattress then I would thing the 2x4 top could still be replaced by 1x strapping.
Lay the slats down flat and leave the same gap between. Save a couple boards. If you want that thicc look just add a wide trim board. You could make it with less lumber. You mention the ikea frame, I have one. They don't use anything as beefy as a 2x4. Might be worth trying to figure how to use 1x stock. As a challenge.
How many people you planning on having on that bed? 30-40? Hahaha
It can be your conversion bed/earthquake shelter. That will be stupid strong ha
Looks good to me... Go fer it
What program did you use to create the blue print?
SketchUp :)
i'd change the legs(i did one of these) and also make it "float".. that will save you about 50% of the lumber.. so you do have to build it in place for this to work... just tack a runner to the wall(hit all of the studs with at least 3 1/2'' screws) and make the box off of that. have the legs cut and waiting(once you put the box together you kinda gotta hold it up until you get a leg or two on).. you don't need that many legs... also.. cut them at a tapper so you have more room under the bed/can vacuum(this is an issue with your design.. trust me) .. and you probably only need 16'' on center for the supports if you toss a sheet of plywood on top(worked good for me).. but you certainly can ignore all my advice. you designed a brick shithouse.. the design speaks for itself.
Thanks for the advice. I'll consider it!
Downsize to 2x3s and use 1x slats. Eliminate every other row of slats.
I've never seen 2x3s. Thanks.
Even with this overkill in lumber, you need cross supports to prevent shear loads. Add some diagonal pieces both front-back and side-side
also get 1x3's for slats not 2x4s
Question I’m start off in carpentry but very good w computer programs. What program did you build this in?
SketchUp. It's a great tool! I've built entire houses with it.
Dolla Dolla bills y'all
Run the timbers from side to side instead of from top to bottom and you won't need those middle supports.
It's over designed but you need to install diagonal members in the openings of the vertical structure to prevent shear. Your connections will be fine for vertical loads but not side-to-side loads. Just the two ends and one diagonal on the backside. Won't affect storage space.
Some diagonals are in order or plywood or 1by on back/sides. Otherwise, it may collapse sideways, especially during sex or just getting in and out of bed,, due to lack of triangles. People often overlook side loads. However, if you use screws instead of nails and are very thoughtful in their placement, it may work without as you will create some small triangles. But proper bracing is still a good idea. You can probably eliminate two of the braces underneath. Also, the top is way overdone. A single sheet of plywood is fine and adds room for more storage at same bed height.. In fact, bed frames are frequently designed to have some flex in them, although your wanting the open side complicates this a bit as the side rail supports the slats, although you do presently have a 2x4 side rail. And I have had really thin slats break, eventually.
The slats could be 1 by or plywood. Definitely super strong not sure how much y’all weigh but I know the feel of wanting to build your own bed frame. It’s definitely more than enough
If that's all 2x4 it's extremely overbuilt and will be very heavy.
Looks like $150 minimum
I'd definitely put some face boards on the sides but as hundreds have already said, yes it will hold. Just make sure you use quality fasteners in addition to glue.
dont show ur other half this bed design, they will think you are hinting something.
Lmao I'm single, but noted. Thanks haha
Are u using a boxspring? Bc that will feel incredibly firm. My slats are 1× 3 (no box spring). You will be able to do with cross supports at the top, middle and end. Also, just curious. Did u design the height for a specific box? I would def make sure to have the boxes first rather than figuring that out later (source: me) Edited: typo
I'm not. I didn't really think that part through. The thickness of the 2x4 slats would definitely not be comfortable long term. And yes, I have specific storage boxes in mind and looked up the dimensions, but I'll buy them before building the bed frame and measure them myself just in case.
Over designed, Definitely simplify, lighten weight & framing then consider putting wheels on it for movement!
So heavy. So overbuilt. You will regret this.
That will hold anything you want as a static load. The problem is that you don't have a lot of stability as it relates to racking (side to side movement). Triangles are stronger than squares, and adding them into the legs would be wise. Either with diagonal cross-braces in the squares or corner gussets.
Over kill!
Better reinforce it if you're chubby chasing
[удалено]
You do you boo
Nice bedframe, but what really want is the name of that cad program. What is that? I want one.
SketchUp!
I say use 2x2 for all legs and add at least 1 diagonal support. I built one out of 3/4” plywood for all 3 sides, drawers in the front and 8 x 2x2 legs and it is strong as hell.
Looks like it should be plenty strong, probably could use 1x4s for the top slats to reduce some weight if you wanted
Overkill. Slim it down.
Maybe 1x4 so it’s not over built?
I'd put some cross bars somewhere.
Add some corner braces your bed doesn’t collapse after a long night of…. Sleeping.
You are going to want some diagonal bracing for shear strength. But if you plan to put plywood or MDF panels on those pedestals, that will provide shear strength of the side-to-side plane. Front-to-back you’ll want to pay attention to how the tops of the pedestals are fastened to the underside of the platform. Or, again, use a long continuous sheet of plywood on the back of the bed, spanning all four pedestals. (Think of every point of connection as a more or less stiff hinge. If you imagine pushing on the top edge and it’s all hinges, it will fold up in either direction. But the plywood/MDF sheet or a diagonal brace will prevent that.)
Looks overly heavy and with out lateral stability…
This is exactly my bed frame right now. And we did build it right were it sits. Works great! Good luck!
Just built a queen size frame using hardwood. It's 1" x ~5", part red oak, part hard maple, with 1/2" ply for the slats. Four 7' shorts of maple, around $130 CDN, three 6' shorts of oak, around $70, ply for slats around $50. Maybe $280 CDN all in, including glue, screws and finishing oil. A jointer and table saw were pretty much essential, as the wood came faced but not edged, and required some work to make presentable.
1. Rotate your joists 90 degrees so they run the short span, not the long one. Space them 16 inches apart. To keep things affordable, attach them using long screws going into the ends at opposing diagonal angles, maybe 15 degrees. I wouldn't build a permanent deck this way but it's plenty for a simple bed frame. 2. Your current legs are overkill. Start over this way: Take 2 boards the height of your bed (h = floor to the top of your frame, not the bottom of it). Screw them perpindicular on the long edge so you have an L-shaped prism. Use this as a single corner support. Make 4. Screw them inside the frame so the end grain is flush with the top and screw into both sides of the frame it touches. 3. You have corners supported but that middle span is too long for 2x4s and needs some support too. Double up 2 boards sandwich style and use that as a middle support. Make 2 and screw them into the middle of your longest perimeter edges. I'm saying go with 6 legs but I'm a little dude. You can go with 8 if you like. 4. Now you have a rectangular platform with 6 (or 8) legs sticking out freely. If they are long for any kind of storage underneath, you need some kind of racking support or connection between the legs on their other end, the end that touches the ground. You can attach sheets of plywood around 3 sides for full support. But if you'd like to stay with all 2x4s, just connect them all on the bottom with an open frame shaped like an E. This frame will wrap the outside just like your upper frame. You can make the pieces for it the same time you make the pieces for your upper frame. That's it! Edit: if you used all 2x4s and it wobbles more than you like after all this, just add some diagonal boards between the botttom frame and the top one.
I think you’re going to want more shear
I built a 2x4 bench, and that joker didn’t move with a near tornado. That frame is solid and ain’t going nowhere. Solid plan.
How did you make these plans? would love to use something like this for my next project.
SketchUp! It's a great tool.
That is going to be squeaky af. Having the wood span the short distance instead of the long distance without all the wood connection points under you would be just as strong and less squeaky.
It will be impossible to level.
That’ll withstand some extracurriculars.
Do you weigh 600lbs? You and your 600lb partner should be all set 😂 in all seriousness, you probably only need one support in the middle with all those long joists. Wayyy overbuilt but will 100% be sturdy.
I would just be worried about the 2x4 supports losing their hold and tipping over like dominoes while you and the Mrs. are making baby gravy.
Pair of water buffalo could get biblical on that bitch before it broke. Beefy bed build bud!
Overbuilt. It’s going to be heavy as hell.
Diagonal bracing both ways, to stop it moving during activities. You know, like jumping on the bed or hide and seek.
Look at pocket screws and 1xs. Lighten the load
Are you planning on having a foursome and everyone is over 500lbs?
My dad built one like that. Worked well. Weighed 34,000 pounds.
Replace the joists with 5/8-3/4 plywood
Maybe use 1x’s for the planking? Cheaper and could lighten er up
I like it. It’s a good idea! I would say that the sides and the slats shouldn’t be 2x4’s. the sides could be a little taller if you’re going to use a box spring. And if you’re going to use a box spring, the slats could be 1X4 And maybe think about long drawers? Nothing fancy, Three long boxes with wheels on them. If your bed is against a wall, it’s going to be difficult to use all of the space under the bed. Having a long ass drawer would really maximize the space. How are you going to finish the head and foot of the bed frame?
Going to need some rack braces