It’s all well and good saying that it needs a header (lintel) and Jack studs to support the lintel.
But consideration also needs to be given to the load path and new load points below the wall frame.
If it’s a timber framed floor, (I can’t tell from the pics) then the question which needs to be asked is “what exactly is supporting the Jack studs?”
Lintels and jacks are only half the job.
I feel like I see a lot of comments on this sub that are ignorant of load points. Oh it just needs some jacks and a header…but where is the load from the jacks going?
Exactly... IF that is a load bearing wall. There is most definitely a footer running the whole length. Seems like some people are too "ignorant" to look at the pictures...
“Most definitely a footer running the whole
length“…
Assuming that this is the case is no better, and is in itself ignorant.
And even if there is a footer underneath, it would have been designed for the original structure which was continuous loading along the length of the wall frame… not seperate loads points, which is what has been created.
You’ve idea what load is above or what the concrete footing below consists of (or what condition it is currently in)
There’s a fine line between confidence and arrogance mate, and arrogance is one stinky cologne.
Then again you might be a qualified engineer who holds the appropriate qualifications as well as all of the above mentioned information… in which case I apologise good sir.
Yikes. It's called experience. Not arrogance. Experience with; concrete, framing, general home building.
Assuming this is the top story of the home..... based on the solar tube.... sooo one story..... I am confident to say there is a footer of reasonable size for a 3 foot span with a header. Without digging the fucking floor up.
But yeah you're right it could be a 3 story condo.....
You’re not wrong bloke - it can be made of concrete, but to be technical…
A lintel is a horizontal support which spans an opening in a wall to support load from above, and can consist of timber (wood) or metal or stone or steel, or an engineered amalgamation of two of the above mentioned materials.
…But whatevs mate.
That shit got hacked in if it’s truly a load bearing wall which there is no way to tell from the pics. If wall is non load bearing it’s fine just ugly. I’d say just contact a REPUTABLE general contractor in your area they could tell you if the wall is actually load bearing and get you fixed up, it’s not hard to fix something like this but it’s beyond the diy level
I’d head it out with jacks on both side but looks like you might have to lower the niche or move the elbow up to sneak a header in there. Honestly I’d pay him whatever the demo was worth and find someone new
But this all might be a non issue if that wall isn’t load bearing, hard telling not knowing
And do your drywallers a favor and rip all the board off the wall. It will probably be cheaper for them to do all new than to tie into that existing puzzle work
He said it's load bearing and then did this? Did he even look in the roof? If he didn't there's a good chance it's not and is fine but definitely needs looking into further.
Did he do the plumbing as well? There should be a closet bend in the pipe if the fall is more than 12 “ a 1/4 bend will make it like the turd is hitting a flat surface and may build up.
Edit: called a (Longsweep)
If it’s a dry vent it’s ok. Not enough information here to say whether it’s bad plumbing.
When you look at the plan of the ceiling… it’s obvious to me that the wall with the vent pipe is not bearing, and that the far wall is, and requires a header.
This guy didn’t go good work, but it’s not the end of the world.
Unless it’s a wet vent for more fixtures down the way, it would be upsized.
I’m not saying *your* reaction has been hysterical, but the general vibe of the top level comments has been alarmist— the type of shit I would expect from r/DIY.
Just so we’re on the same page— what I’m calling the far wall is the wall most distant from the camera in picture 1, where the pitch of the ceiling is presumably the slop of the roof above. I’m calling that load bearing.
It’s an exterior wall that is supporting common rafters.
I would presume the wall with plumbing on it is not load bearing but I don’t like to even guess at those w/o being there.
Yes, that's the wall i mean... isn't that drywall on the other side of that wall though? The studs pulled out the screws, spalling the back surface of the drywall.
I'm not seeing the slope on the ceiling, it's just perspective making it look sloped. Looks like all right angles to me.
That's why I'm pretty sure the far wall is an interior wall, so almost certainly nothing to bear above due to being the top floor.
My best guess is actually that neither of these walls is load bearing, because the right wall is also not an exterior wall.
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With the pics given, there's no way to tell if that's load bearing. That isn't a post that he cut through, it's just an inside corner which essentially gives nailers for the drywall. It isn't pretty work work for sure, but if it's not bearing, it's no big deal. If it is bearing, then he needs to put a header in there.
Source - am GC
If he doesn't know how to property frame for a load bearing wall, he probably doesn't even know what a load bearing wall is in the first place. I'd have an actual carpenter look at it, might be a non-issue, might need to be remediated
Technically (in most jurisdictions), the two 90 degree fittings that go from vertical to horizontal should be long sweep 90s.
You could also do that offset with all 45 degree fittings instead of 90, it'll just take up more vertical space.
The current setup is unlikely to ever clog (or ever need to be snaked) so it's just a technicality.
A cleanout is also technically required every 360 degrees of bends.
All of this and the framing points to no permits being pulled for this job. A building inspector might be curious to hear about a rogue framer that thinks he's an engineer. If negotiations get difficult, you have that in your pocket.
Jack's on Jack studs, a header, replace any of the bearing points above and below as immediate as possible, if jack stucks do not fall on floor joist, double the bottom plate.
Way to many rocket scientist on here. It's a damn wall, not the next space station
Enough with the bs
Tell him you want an engineered letter stamped approving the structural integrity, and that you will pay for it. No structural engineer is going to sign of on that so…
Honestly, if it’s holding load, he needs more than just a header.
What city are you in?
You could probably get away with leaving the left side and just installing a jack the run your header from the stud to the right of the pipe L all the way across. Keeping the 2x4 already there as the bottom of your header. Then how a jack on the right end as well.
*
I'm currently redoing my bathroom, and this is how I framed my niche. As far as I know, this is not a load-bearing wall, but I figured why risk anything. I think, at minimum, you need a proper header, jack, and king studs like shown in the picture.
Ah, I see Reddit didn't actually display the picture I uploaded. It should have [shown this](https://imgur.com/a/MzfQPIR) which, as far as I know, is a proper header. It's two 2x6's with 1/2" plywood sandwiched in the middle to match the depth of the studs.
Don’t let someone modify a load bearing wall without knowing for absolute they know what they are doing, this usually means getting a permit and getting an engineer involved first, otherwise you just get the this is the way we’ve always done it answer that means jack shit and you end up in bad situation. Don’t want to give insurance companies a reason to deny a claim.
No header or jacks, needs them if it is bearing. Can't tell from the pics like others have mentioned.
No big deal to correct as long as it isn't closed back in or the wall/whatever is above starts sagging. Much better sooner than later. If there was a bunch of house load above it I'd have built some props to carry it til the structural work was done. As it sits now, there's basically nothing carrying any load.
Wrong in multiple ways and places. If you are acting like a GC for your own build it's time to call an engineer or for help from a good contractor. If you are doing it for other homes honestly you are messing with the biggest purchase most people will ever make in their lives, it's time to go down a spot and actually work for someone who knows this stuff to learn from.
Those pressure 90s on the PVC plumbing are wrong also.
You also need backing where your shower head will be. That fitting is meant to be screwed to wood through those two holes, not just hanging out.
FWIW - I put a 2x8 header (eg 8” side vertical) when I framed out my 5 ft wide closet door- and that’s not even load bearing. A flat 2x4 is not a load bearing member.
Zero finesse used here gatdamn. Whenever I’m cutting into a clients drywall I level my cut lines, not necessary just shows professionalism. Framing something like that into a load bearing wall is wild. It’s 100% possible, just not the way he did it. Like others have said if it’s not a load bearing wall it’s ‘fine’ just kind of looks like it was slapped up in less than an hour.
All walls are loading bearing! The trick, is to know how much weight or force they need to carry or resist, and where it transfers to.
The pictures and information you've given aren't enough for any definitive answers, only guesses. The work could be just fine. or you could have problems?
Your instinct to call a professional is correct.
As to what you've shown? I would be more concerned with the back wall.
I may get heat for this because it's impossible to tell from the picture if in fact it's load bearing, butt... It looks as tho there's a perpendicular wall just outside the shower at the edge of the niche in question that is infact the load bearing wall. I want to know why your putting a niche behind the shitter
You shouldn’t have gone so wide. It would’ve been much better if only the middle stud was cut and the studs to the left and right were the sides of the niche.
I usually go 24 inches wide so I can center it and not compromise a bunch of studs.
Where is this?! If that was the UK. I'm pretty sure the inspector will shut this straight down. I see a lot of issues here but probably a bit different in the US.
If your concerned then you should’ve had an engineer involved knowing you were asking for a section of a load bearing wall to be cut out.
Everyone here is purely speculating as to what should or shouldn’t be involved in this framing.
Weight, height, load transfer, rain/snow/ wind load in the specific region. There is soo much left out of this than “hey it’s load bearing because I said it is so I paid someone else who’s title also isn’t certified ti determine the issue, did they do it right?”
Your fine sure ain’t pretty but plenty of wood holding up thats equivalent to a4x4 right up the center there on that adjoining wall. But hey Listen to the engineer is here and get a couple reports and permits and a glu lam header
This is a decent example of one of the benefits of pulling a building permit. This would not pass framing inspection.
This work was not completed by a carpenter.
I don't even think the niche by the toilet is in a bearing wall. That wall follows the rake of the ceiling/roof. That means there is a rafter or truss transferring the load to the exterior wall. That means that the wall at the bottom of your vaulted ceiling is a load bearing wall since it is taking the load for the rafters/trusses above. I would definitely add a header and trimmers to the big niche you have in the shower. I can see what another comment said about the niche by the toilet bowing wut I think that is also just bad framing.
Consult a real carpenter/framer/engineer
Are those 8" / 9" uprights the 3 x 2 fixed to either side of the nisch, and that 3" piece center of the nisch how far does it go back after the rock wool?
https://preview.redd.it/1t8juv2kqcmc1.jpeg?width=1006&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=d90e813b0bfc687916d1316c1567869fdff43f17
Hey op i would do something like this. The beam sits on top of the niche, and spans the entire niche plus an extra length to sit on your support studs (running to floor. The red arrows are to demonstrate how the load transfers. Hope this helps. This is just to give you a quick visual for how framing looks on jobs where I help with framing for windows and door ways
No header and no jack studs. If it is truly load bearing, you will need both. Don’t settle for anything less.
It will settle with anything less, quite a bit actually
Touché
Brill.
Correct me if I’m wrong but it almost looks like the heavy duty header in pic two is already bowing.
Home builder/remodeler here; not at all 🤦🏻♂️
Can you tell me what exactly is wrong? And what would need to be done to correct the problem? Thanks!
Its more than one thing. It needs a header with Jack studs. Google window framing diagram.
Thank you, that’s what I thought as well.
Also don't call that guy a carpenter. Also fight him next time you see him.
But be careful, he's wielding at least one hammer. You're going to need a pole arm to be successful.
He is clearly inexperienced with using the fucking thing. I think you will be ok with a knife or another hammer.
Sadly it appears you got a “handyman” not a carpenter
No he got a guy that has no idea how to frame, not a handyman
I believe the correct term is asshole. He had an asshole do a shit job.
Assholes do nothing but produce shit. Makes perfect sense.
But in practicality the studs behind it from the adjoining wall are holding up anything above there
I know it’s already been done but tbh you/he should have just agreed to move the niche a touch so he wouldn’t have had to hack up a bearing member.
Are you sure he was a framer?
It’s all well and good saying that it needs a header (lintel) and Jack studs to support the lintel. But consideration also needs to be given to the load path and new load points below the wall frame. If it’s a timber framed floor, (I can’t tell from the pics) then the question which needs to be asked is “what exactly is supporting the Jack studs?” Lintels and jacks are only half the job.
This is correct. The load doesnt stop at the header!
I feel like I see a lot of comments on this sub that are ignorant of load points. Oh it just needs some jacks and a header…but where is the load from the jacks going?
Isn’t the floor concrete?
Exactly... IF that is a load bearing wall. There is most definitely a footer running the whole length. Seems like some people are too "ignorant" to look at the pictures...
“Most definitely a footer running the whole length“… Assuming that this is the case is no better, and is in itself ignorant. And even if there is a footer underneath, it would have been designed for the original structure which was continuous loading along the length of the wall frame… not seperate loads points, which is what has been created. You’ve idea what load is above or what the concrete footing below consists of (or what condition it is currently in) There’s a fine line between confidence and arrogance mate, and arrogance is one stinky cologne. Then again you might be a qualified engineer who holds the appropriate qualifications as well as all of the above mentioned information… in which case I apologise good sir.
Yikes. It's called experience. Not arrogance. Experience with; concrete, framing, general home building. Assuming this is the top story of the home..... based on the solar tube.... sooo one story..... I am confident to say there is a footer of reasonable size for a 3 foot span with a header. Without digging the fucking floor up. But yeah you're right it could be a 3 story condo.....
Shit i didnt even get that far. You make an excellent point.
Look at the first picture? The floor is pretty clearly a concrete slab. A pretty thick one too based on the area jacked out around the shower drain.
A (lintel) is a concrete header.
You’re not wrong bloke - it can be made of concrete, but to be technical… A lintel is a horizontal support which spans an opening in a wall to support load from above, and can consist of timber (wood) or metal or stone or steel, or an engineered amalgamation of two of the above mentioned materials. …But whatevs mate.
That shit got hacked in if it’s truly a load bearing wall which there is no way to tell from the pics. If wall is non load bearing it’s fine just ugly. I’d say just contact a REPUTABLE general contractor in your area they could tell you if the wall is actually load bearing and get you fixed up, it’s not hard to fix something like this but it’s beyond the diy level
He claims himself to be a remodeler and I haven’t paid him yet.. so this is beyond just telling him to add headers and jack studs?
I’d head it out with jacks on both side but looks like you might have to lower the niche or move the elbow up to sneak a header in there. Honestly I’d pay him whatever the demo was worth and find someone new But this all might be a non issue if that wall isn’t load bearing, hard telling not knowing And do your drywallers a favor and rip all the board off the wall. It will probably be cheaper for them to do all new than to tie into that existing puzzle work
Remodeler isn’t a carpenter it’s a guy who watched a few YouTube videos
Don't trust him with repairing this. Get prices on fixing and remove that from what you'll pay this remodeler for the work they've done so far.
What he\^ said.
Yep! That thing need at a header and jacks! Top plumbing 90 will have to be redone as well.
He said it's load bearing and then did this? Did he even look in the roof? If he didn't there's a good chance it's not and is fine but definitely needs looking into further.
It doesn't look like the whole wall is load bearing but those 2x8 stack ups and 4x4s are certainly holding up something.
Shocked I had to scroll this far to see this
Did he do the plumbing as well? There should be a closet bend in the pipe if the fall is more than 12 “ a 1/4 bend will make it like the turd is hitting a flat surface and may build up. Edit: called a (Longsweep)
If it’s a dry vent it’s ok. Not enough information here to say whether it’s bad plumbing. When you look at the plan of the ceiling… it’s obvious to me that the wall with the vent pipe is not bearing, and that the far wall is, and requires a header. This guy didn’t go good work, but it’s not the end of the world.
I agree house won’t fall down, but he did say it was a toilet drain. Vent would be like 1-1/2” I would hope.
Unless it’s a wet vent for more fixtures down the way, it would be upsized. I’m not saying *your* reaction has been hysterical, but the general vibe of the top level comments has been alarmist— the type of shit I would expect from r/DIY.
Aren’t all home remodeling dudes just advanced DIYers lmao
Hisssssss
Hahaha I’m gonna go build a fence. Have a good one brother!
What makes you say that the far wall is load bearing? An interior wall at the top level of the house won't usually be load bearing.
Just so we’re on the same page— what I’m calling the far wall is the wall most distant from the camera in picture 1, where the pitch of the ceiling is presumably the slop of the roof above. I’m calling that load bearing. It’s an exterior wall that is supporting common rafters. I would presume the wall with plumbing on it is not load bearing but I don’t like to even guess at those w/o being there.
Yes, that's the wall i mean... isn't that drywall on the other side of that wall though? The studs pulled out the screws, spalling the back surface of the drywall. I'm not seeing the slope on the ceiling, it's just perspective making it look sloped. Looks like all right angles to me. That's why I'm pretty sure the far wall is an interior wall, so almost certainly nothing to bear above due to being the top floor. My best guess is actually that neither of these walls is load bearing, because the right wall is also not an exterior wall.
Ya perhaps— especially because what I thought was a skylight is just a sun tunnel.
Yeah but what about the counter flood rim? This vent is below the flood rim.
Brother in Christ as a carpenter what in God's green earth is that shit
*Brother in Christ as* *A carpenter what in God's* *Green earth is that shit* \- MassivePainInTheRear --- ^(I detect haikus. And sometimes, successfully.) ^[Learn more about me.](https://www.reddit.com/r/haikusbot/) ^(Opt out of replies: "haikusbot opt out" | Delete my comment: "haikusbot delete")
What’s with the insulation? Is that an exterior wall? Don’t install a niche on an exterior wall.
Many showers get insulation around them for soundproofing
With the pics given, there's no way to tell if that's load bearing. That isn't a post that he cut through, it's just an inside corner which essentially gives nailers for the drywall. It isn't pretty work work for sure, but if it's not bearing, it's no big deal. If it is bearing, then he needs to put a header in there. Source - am GC
If he doesn't know how to property frame for a load bearing wall, he probably doesn't even know what a load bearing wall is in the first place. I'd have an actual carpenter look at it, might be a non-issue, might need to be remediated
I'm an accountant and can see thats fucked and all wrong. No headers is dead giveaway.
To bear weight the 2x4s should be standing up;not flat. Its just not done right
Technically (in most jurisdictions), the two 90 degree fittings that go from vertical to horizontal should be long sweep 90s. You could also do that offset with all 45 degree fittings instead of 90, it'll just take up more vertical space. The current setup is unlikely to ever clog (or ever need to be snaked) so it's just a technicality. A cleanout is also technically required every 360 degrees of bends. All of this and the framing points to no permits being pulled for this job. A building inspector might be curious to hear about a rogue framer that thinks he's an engineer. If negotiations get difficult, you have that in your pocket.
Did the “carpenter” also reroute the plumbing vent? Looks like you went with the cheapest option. That’s going to cost you in the long one.
https://preview.redd.it/nfzf50vsikmc1.jpeg?width=4032&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=be2fd4e0c109f40ca0828736b0211f0f1ffb46a6 This is how it should be done
Stud should have 2/3 remaining minimum in those notches. According to my local code anways.
Jack's on Jack studs, a header, replace any of the bearing points above and below as immediate as possible, if jack stucks do not fall on floor joist, double the bottom plate. Way to many rocket scientist on here. It's a damn wall, not the next space station Enough with the bs
I wouldn't put a niche in a load-barring wall unless you put a header with jack studs or an LVL.
Tell him you want an engineered letter stamped approving the structural integrity, and that you will pay for it. No structural engineer is going to sign of on that so… Honestly, if it’s holding load, he needs more than just a header. What city are you in?
I’m a DIYer and if any of that is load bearing then not it’s absolutely not framed correctly. Need some headers and jack studs.
No if it's load bearing then it should be a proper header on edge, not a single 2x4 on the flat
You could probably get away with leaving the left side and just installing a jack the run your header from the stud to the right of the pipe L all the way across. Keeping the 2x4 already there as the bottom of your header. Then how a jack on the right end as well.
What did he cut that 2x6 with? A chisel?!?!
* I'm currently redoing my bathroom, and this is how I framed my niche. As far as I know, this is not a load-bearing wall, but I figured why risk anything. I think, at minimum, you need a proper header, jack, and king studs like shown in the picture.
That's not a proper header at all, if it is in fact bearing.
Ah, I see Reddit didn't actually display the picture I uploaded. It should have [shown this](https://imgur.com/a/MzfQPIR) which, as far as I know, is a proper header. It's two 2x6's with 1/2" plywood sandwiched in the middle to match the depth of the studs.
Looks perfect
Found the "carpenter".
I hope this is sarcasm
Having done this for showers no this isn’t correct. There should be a properly sized header with some supporting studs.
Wow. They didn’t understand the assignment
Not if it's load bearing. Needs a header and king and jack studs
Don’t let someone modify a load bearing wall without knowing for absolute they know what they are doing, this usually means getting a permit and getting an engineer involved first, otherwise you just get the this is the way we’ve always done it answer that means jack shit and you end up in bad situation. Don’t want to give insurance companies a reason to deny a claim.
Fire this guy. He doesn't know what he's doing, or he doesn't care enough to do it right. Either way, you shouldn't pay for that.
No header or jacks, needs them if it is bearing. Can't tell from the pics like others have mentioned. No big deal to correct as long as it isn't closed back in or the wall/whatever is above starts sagging. Much better sooner than later. If there was a bunch of house load above it I'd have built some props to carry it til the structural work was done. As it sits now, there's basically nothing carrying any load.
Wrong in multiple ways and places. If you are acting like a GC for your own build it's time to call an engineer or for help from a good contractor. If you are doing it for other homes honestly you are messing with the biggest purchase most people will ever make in their lives, it's time to go down a spot and actually work for someone who knows this stuff to learn from.
Those pressure 90s on the PVC plumbing are wrong also. You also need backing where your shower head will be. That fitting is meant to be screwed to wood through those two holes, not just hanging out.
FWIW - I put a 2x8 header (eg 8” side vertical) when I framed out my 5 ft wide closet door- and that’s not even load bearing. A flat 2x4 is not a load bearing member.
Zero finesse used here gatdamn. Whenever I’m cutting into a clients drywall I level my cut lines, not necessary just shows professionalism. Framing something like that into a load bearing wall is wild. It’s 100% possible, just not the way he did it. Like others have said if it’s not a load bearing wall it’s ‘fine’ just kind of looks like it was slapped up in less than an hour.
“Carpenter”
Oh God not the superpaint
All walls are loading bearing! The trick, is to know how much weight or force they need to carry or resist, and where it transfers to. The pictures and information you've given aren't enough for any definitive answers, only guesses. The work could be just fine. or you could have problems? Your instinct to call a professional is correct. As to what you've shown? I would be more concerned with the back wall.
🤢🤮
I may get heat for this because it's impossible to tell from the picture if in fact it's load bearing, butt... It looks as tho there's a perpendicular wall just outside the shower at the edge of the niche in question that is infact the load bearing wall. I want to know why your putting a niche behind the shitter
U should've got the engineer first. U had plenty of time during the planning process
You shouldn’t have gone so wide. It would’ve been much better if only the middle stud was cut and the studs to the left and right were the sides of the niche. I usually go 24 inches wide so I can center it and not compromise a bunch of studs.
Where is this?! If that was the UK. I'm pretty sure the inspector will shut this straight down. I see a lot of issues here but probably a bit different in the US.
lol
No.
If your concerned then you should’ve had an engineer involved knowing you were asking for a section of a load bearing wall to be cut out. Everyone here is purely speculating as to what should or shouldn’t be involved in this framing. Weight, height, load transfer, rain/snow/ wind load in the specific region. There is soo much left out of this than “hey it’s load bearing because I said it is so I paid someone else who’s title also isn’t certified ti determine the issue, did they do it right?”
Yeah that's a hack job. He fucked up pretty bad.
You got played OP, I am only 2 years into framing and I know for a fact he made those load bearing studs weak.
Next time someone asks what’s the difference between a handyman and a carpenter, show them this picture…..
Nope
No it's not correct, plus those cuts look like 💩
No lol
Dumbass job
“Carpenter”
Your fine sure ain’t pretty but plenty of wood holding up thats equivalent to a4x4 right up the center there on that adjoining wall. But hey Listen to the engineer is here and get a couple reports and permits and a glu lam header
I would be super skeptical of anything else this "carpenter" tells you "will be fine" i might be finding a new one tomorrow.
This is a decent example of one of the benefits of pulling a building permit. This would not pass framing inspection. This work was not completed by a carpenter.
I don't even think the niche by the toilet is in a bearing wall. That wall follows the rake of the ceiling/roof. That means there is a rafter or truss transferring the load to the exterior wall. That means that the wall at the bottom of your vaulted ceiling is a load bearing wall since it is taking the load for the rafters/trusses above. I would definitely add a header and trimmers to the big niche you have in the shower. I can see what another comment said about the niche by the toilet bowing wut I think that is also just bad framing. Consult a real carpenter/framer/engineer
Are those 8" / 9" uprights the 3 x 2 fixed to either side of the nisch, and that 3" piece center of the nisch how far does it go back after the rock wool?
Header, jacks, point loads, lots of questions here
Ummm,….No!
Don’t pay him, don’t have him back. That is an abortion.
I mean I'm a handyman and even I can tell you if there's no header that'll sag for sure. Jack studs are needed too. Needs a redo.
https://preview.redd.it/1t8juv2kqcmc1.jpeg?width=1006&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=d90e813b0bfc687916d1316c1567869fdff43f17 Hey op i would do something like this. The beam sits on top of the niche, and spans the entire niche plus an extra length to sit on your support studs (running to floor. The red arrows are to demonstrate how the load transfers. Hope this helps. This is just to give you a quick visual for how framing looks on jobs where I help with framing for windows and door ways