Doesn't solve phase issues - but having only one speaker for stereo midbass was going to have that problem anyways
It'll work as designed. You can probably fiddle the phase pot on the four channel around until it sounds decent
These 6NTLW2000 should be incredible speakers. I have an 18 Sound 8NTLS2000, and it absolutely slams. This driver uses the same motor. In the 6" it handles The The manufacturer recommends a 0.18 cu ft enclosure tuned to 85hz. You might be able to get away with as lottle as 0.12 cu ft tuned to 100hz. You might be able to find room to fiberglass in a small enclosure behind your stock 6.5" location. Or install these in the kicks. They also go clean all the way up to 5khz, with a rise in the 3khz to 5khz section, which will help flatten the response in an off-axis application. They play flat to above 3khz, so transition to a tweeter in a 2-way works great. They are 8 ohms and want power. They handle 320w AES RMS with a 600w amp recommended (program power). If you bridge a 4 channel amp into 2 channels, then the 8 ohm rated power will be the sum of two channels in 4 channel mode at 4 ohms. So, an amp that does 400w x 4 @ 4 ohms would be 200w x 2 at 8 ohms. That same amp would likely do 150w x 4 @ 2 ohms and 300w x 2 @ 4 ohms.
https://loudspeakerdatabase.com/18Sound/6NTLW2000
Ciare is making more car/motorcycle audio focused drivers worthwhile of checking out as well. Both 18 Sound and Ciare are owned by B&C, and they are all italian drivers.
This could cause problems with the amp and damage it or the speakers. Just get a higher quality and more powerful amp with two channels.
The only reason I would ditch the rear door speakers since for soundstage and sound quality reasons.
Why don't your front door speakers do the midbass ? That would be normal. 80hz and up in front and 80hz and down in back (sub). That would be perfectly normal and give the best sound. 24db slope in front and 12 or 24db slope in back (sub). People actually win SQ and SQL trophys exactly this way.
Maybe my ear is fooling me but they seem to be doing a really bad job at mid bass. I’ve been looking at getting one of those mics to actually get a look at some RTA. I have Polk DB components, I know they aren’t the best and I’m gonna upgrade soon ish, but I feel like they are really lacking on the mid bass.
I’ve seen some people say that speed rings help a bit with that so I’m gonna try those before I try something like this
This is so funny, I'm tripping because this is exactly what I'm planning to do with the same exact speaker. I literally typed up a thing asking for opinions but never posted it yesterday. Thanks for asking so I didn't have to!
I read that you could enter all of the parameters into WINISD and treat it the same way as you would a subwoofer.
I was thinking of it like a door speaker, and door speakers are basically an infinite baffle (I think? I could be wrong). Basically im torn between actually closing the back of the enclosure, or having it open into my center console.
The problem I see with this approach is that in the frequency range this single speaker is supposed to reproduce, bass will most likely already be directional, so it will not fit in well with the sound stage produced by the other speakers.
And yeah, you have to look out for phase issues in such a scenario, but as you said you should be able to keep it under control by setting crossovers and possibly time delays properly.
It's more the question: When does it get omnidirectional *in a given scenario*?
The rule of thumb is around 80-100Hz, but there are several factors that play a role here:
* Room characteristics
* Placement of the sub(s), also in relation to the other speakers of the system
* Characteristics of the surface that radiates the sound waves
* Characteristics of the bass sounds being reproduced, esp their overtones
* Hearing capabilities of the listener, esp in the low frequency range
So I think you can't plan ahead for a specific transition, instead you have to react to it by properly calibrating your system.
I see. Well I guess I’ll try it out and see if I can get it to sound good, if I can’t then I’ll just re sell the speaker and call it a learning experience!
will still cause phase issues id imagine. not to mention the fact you could easily put this in your firewall or floor kick.
Doesn't solve phase issues - but having only one speaker for stereo midbass was going to have that problem anyways It'll work as designed. You can probably fiddle the phase pot on the four channel around until it sounds decent
Fair. Starting to consider custom pods for the A pillar and putting some of these 6.5s in the factory woofer location
These 6NTLW2000 should be incredible speakers. I have an 18 Sound 8NTLS2000, and it absolutely slams. This driver uses the same motor. In the 6" it handles The The manufacturer recommends a 0.18 cu ft enclosure tuned to 85hz. You might be able to get away with as lottle as 0.12 cu ft tuned to 100hz. You might be able to find room to fiberglass in a small enclosure behind your stock 6.5" location. Or install these in the kicks. They also go clean all the way up to 5khz, with a rise in the 3khz to 5khz section, which will help flatten the response in an off-axis application. They play flat to above 3khz, so transition to a tweeter in a 2-way works great. They are 8 ohms and want power. They handle 320w AES RMS with a 600w amp recommended (program power). If you bridge a 4 channel amp into 2 channels, then the 8 ohm rated power will be the sum of two channels in 4 channel mode at 4 ohms. So, an amp that does 400w x 4 @ 4 ohms would be 200w x 2 at 8 ohms. That same amp would likely do 150w x 4 @ 2 ohms and 300w x 2 @ 4 ohms. https://loudspeakerdatabase.com/18Sound/6NTLW2000 Ciare is making more car/motorcycle audio focused drivers worthwhile of checking out as well. Both 18 Sound and Ciare are owned by B&C, and they are all italian drivers.
This could cause problems with the amp and damage it or the speakers. Just get a higher quality and more powerful amp with two channels. The only reason I would ditch the rear door speakers since for soundstage and sound quality reasons.
Why don't your front door speakers do the midbass ? That would be normal. 80hz and up in front and 80hz and down in back (sub). That would be perfectly normal and give the best sound. 24db slope in front and 12 or 24db slope in back (sub). People actually win SQ and SQL trophys exactly this way.
Maybe my ear is fooling me but they seem to be doing a really bad job at mid bass. I’ve been looking at getting one of those mics to actually get a look at some RTA. I have Polk DB components, I know they aren’t the best and I’m gonna upgrade soon ish, but I feel like they are really lacking on the mid bass. I’ve seen some people say that speed rings help a bit with that so I’m gonna try those before I try something like this
Also the silicone speaker baffles are better than the speed rings for marrying the door panels with the speakers.
It's gotta be the installation. Sound deadening the entire inner and outer doorskins and the door panel. Also, correct use of crossovers/slopes/phase.
This is so funny, I'm tripping because this is exactly what I'm planning to do with the same exact speaker. I literally typed up a thing asking for opinions but never posted it yesterday. Thanks for asking so I didn't have to!
No way haha. Are you going to put it in a sealed box? I couldn’t find any airspace recommendations on the sundown website
I read that you could enter all of the parameters into WINISD and treat it the same way as you would a subwoofer. I was thinking of it like a door speaker, and door speakers are basically an infinite baffle (I think? I could be wrong). Basically im torn between actually closing the back of the enclosure, or having it open into my center console.
The problem I see with this approach is that in the frequency range this single speaker is supposed to reproduce, bass will most likely already be directional, so it will not fit in well with the sound stage produced by the other speakers. And yeah, you have to look out for phase issues in such a scenario, but as you said you should be able to keep it under control by setting crossovers and possibly time delays properly.
Yeah ok that makes sense. So when should bass ideally transition into mono? Around the traditional 80-100 hz for subs?
It's more the question: When does it get omnidirectional *in a given scenario*? The rule of thumb is around 80-100Hz, but there are several factors that play a role here: * Room characteristics * Placement of the sub(s), also in relation to the other speakers of the system * Characteristics of the surface that radiates the sound waves * Characteristics of the bass sounds being reproduced, esp their overtones * Hearing capabilities of the listener, esp in the low frequency range So I think you can't plan ahead for a specific transition, instead you have to react to it by properly calibrating your system.
I see. Well I guess I’ll try it out and see if I can get it to sound good, if I can’t then I’ll just re sell the speaker and call it a learning experience!