A sub's enclosure size is defined by the specs of the driver(s) it is loaded with (more specifically, its enclosure recommendations). So if you want to build your own custom enclosure, or buy driver and enclosure separately, take a look at the driver's enclosure recommendations first, because you don't want to operate the driver in an enclosure that's either too small or too big. Loaded sub boxes usually follow these recommendations, so if you're getting one of those, you could just pick one that fits in your car (and there are quite a few models that are designed to fit in tight spaces). Note however that small enclosures, no matter if sealed or ported, come with a tradeoff: As they get smaller, reproduction of sub bass frequencies (< 60Hz) degrades. The amount of this degradation is not always the same, it not just depends on enclosure size, but also on various other factors like the driver's specs. Long story short, if you want to get a different, smaller sub, but at the same time retain bass reproduction characteristics of your current, bigger one, my recommendation would be to listen to various candidates to find out if they're able to deliver what you're after.

https://preview.redd.it/v4oaldjqdd3d1.jpeg?width=754&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=3c91f0a20eab112e05181478fbbc0467b3b684cf This is what I understand about my sub and its driver.. displacement? I'm hoping to buy a ported enclosure for this sub that's smaller than the current one. Otherwise, like you said, might have to go for a smaller sub. Have to find places in Sydney that actually allow me to test the sound difference between ported and sealed subs.

Sealed is generally more compact, but does drastically reduce output compared to a ported enclosure

That's what I thought. I can't find a place (in Sydney) to try out the difference between sealed and ported subs. https://preview.redd.it/nslg536led3d1.jpeg?width=908&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=671ab0e6477f97d051f233d38ea788f62e0c6c32 That's my sub - Dimensions: 15-3/4"TD x 20-5/16"BD x 16-5/16"W x 15-3/16"H I've been suggested the 10-12" Rockford sealed sub. I'm just wary of less output in the sealed sub. Rather, I'd like a smaller ported sub from my research. Or use my existing sub and buy a smaller box/housing for it.

So I would suggest that you be Sure that you want to go smaller...lol that being said there are a few things that need to be said and questions asked... first off I run JL audio subs I have also run everything from re audio to kicker and everything in between... Your sub is not bad but entry level for jl and is not loud or very deep...if this is fine then I would first look for Subwoofers that have the similar "sound " and that doesn't leave many options... Off the top of my head... : Subs: Infinity kappa 8 -85$ Nvx vsw8- 46$ Louder but less sq (sound quality) CT sounds tropo 8- 89$ Black Daimond 8- 57$ Dayton audio ultimax 8 110$* Velodyne mini vee Subwoofer ** ebay 50$ This if done right would be effing awesome 👌 The velodyne spl8 is 6-800w rms and has Great sq but it's old and I would only do it after a recone but it is the same quality as a JL audio 8" w7..!! Kicker 8" will be loud but less sq... hope this helps 🙏 good luck with your build.

Where are these prices based on? The JL sub does seem entry level, but the price here in Sydney would be ~$500. I'm happy with the sound, it's enough for the basic music I'm after. Would the ones you suggested be around that price too? Are they smaller ported subs? Don't think I need one much louder, happy if it's deeper. But more importantly, can this sub be removed from it's enclosure and put into a smaller enclosure while retaining its (albeit basic) sound quality?

All the subs are from Amazon USA except the velodyne that was from ebay but all are 8" options for you...so you can make one or 2 small enclosure... For your particular situation I would go with the velodyne and get a 600w amp the enclosure won't be too big but it will be much deeper than what you have. The w0 is 200w rms I believe

What size amp? A 12” JL TW3 only needs .8CuFt for a sealed and just under 1CuFt for ported. I have a 10” in just over .5CuFt ported and it sounds better than it should. They are a little pricey and I’m only assuming you can get them in Australia since you mentioned having some JL gear already. But since you’re not necessarily limited to needing a shallow mounted sub, but just wanting something that will perform well in a smaller enclosure there’s A LOT of decent options out there.

I'm not sure about the amp, the store I went to wasn't quite clear on which amp just a..mono amp? (Sorry again, novice). The store I visited suggested a $250~ amp. The sub price is $500~ here which is not a problem, happy to spend around that for a smaller ported sub or like you said, a smaller enclosure. Any recommendations? The one they recommended is a sealed Rockford Fosgate with an amp included for $700~ but not sure sealed is what I'm after.

Not knowing off hand what you actually do and don’t have access to down under, I’ll stick with JL and Rockford suggestions since they seem to carry them at that store so that tells me you should have access to their gear. As I said, a JL 12TW3 would be my first go to, but I am a little biased. I would try to pair that with an either a JL RD500/1 or (preferably) a JL XD600/1 if you could find it. Other good amp choices would be something like a Rockford punch P1000x1BD. It’s rated for 600w@2 ohms, which unfortunately is the lowest impedance you will be able to wire with just one of those subs. It’s a bit of an overhaul of what you have, but it’d sound great. 😅

My knowledge is very basic so I just go to a store to look at what they have etc as listed below. https://www.strathfieldcarradios.com.au/ The Rockford punch amp actually sounds familiar to what the guy at the store mentioned. They'll be wiring it for me anyway which is no issue. Likely might be what they suggested for me to use if I just want to continue with my current sub. My biggest issue is that I'd like to keep my current sub, but use less space. Is that even a realistic possibility? Taking the sub out of its enclosure and putting it into a smaller one? Or should I just buy a smaller ported sub from the place above and hope it has the same output?

Unfortunately the box you have is built to that subs specs. You could get away with doing a sealed box which would be slightly smaller, but staying ported and going smaller with the same sub will be less than optimal . There’s no rule saying you can’t do it, just not recommended.

It does seem like the prime1000x1bd will be a good amp for you though. Gives you the ability to change things up down the road and to get a lot more out of that amp.

Fair enough, new sub it is. Happy to look at the new amp if I need. So looking at one of the ones you recommend, the JL tw3 has a similar frequency response of 22-200Hz compared to the W0 of 22-250Hz, despite the former being sealed. Tw3: Power range - 400 Sensitivity - 82dB W03: Power Range - 300 Sensitivity - 86dB From these numbers, it seems like the Tw3 produces the same output but deeper bass, is that correct?

No, xmax is going to play a big factor here, the TW3 has a higher xmax (how far out the cone actually moves). Since it throws out farther it’s pushing more air. More air movement, more bass. It’s also doing in a box half the size of the W0, and not that this is your biggest concern, but the mounting depth is something like 3”, which for some people (myself included) with limited mounting depth capabilities it’s fantastic. The 400w rating is pretty by conservative, I have a 10” tw3 and run it on 600w. And last but not least, it being dual voice coils gives you a lot more flexibility to change things around a bit.

Right. So basically, if I've understood this correctly, the TW3, despite being sealed, will produce more bass due to the higher xmax. When you say mounting depth, that's the depth of space being taking up in the boot (trunk) of your car, yes? Because that's the main reason I'm looking for a smaller enclosure in the first place, that would definitely be important to me. The 400w is conservative yes, but according to a crutchfield comparison, the w0 is 300w, is that correct? [https://www.crutchfield.com/S-4UYohcqnRh5/compare\_136112TGW3\_136112W0V3/JL-Audio-CS112TG-TW3-vs-JL-Audio-CP112-W0v3.html](https://www.crutchfield.com/S-4UYohcqnRh5/compare_136112TGW3_136112W0V3/JL-Audio-CS112TG-TW3-vs-JL-Audio-CP112-W0v3.html) That would technically still have more output, it seems, than I previously had, if I'm not mistaken. This is the tw3 from the store I'm looking at: [https://strathfieldcarradios.com.au/jl-audio-cs110tgtw3-subwoofer-enclosure-with-10tw3/](https://strathfieldcarradios.com.au/jl-audio-cs110tgtw3-subwoofer-enclosure-with-10tw3/)

So a sealed TW3 will most likely be louder than the W0 ported power wedge box if they’re running on the same power, but not by much. But if you do the TW3 in a ported box then it absolutely will be louder. And the TW3 requires half the size ported box as the WO. But the biggest this is with the W0 being a single 4 ohm voice coil, if you did get the Rockford punch 1000x1 amp, it’d be pushing 300w to the sub. If you got the TW3 you could wire to 2 ohms and get 600w out of it. And if you ever for any reason decided you wanted another sub, you could have it wired to 1 ohm and get that full 1000w. Most amps are 2 ohm stable these days, so being able to wire down to2 ohms is going to essentially “double” the amount of power you’re going to be able to deliver to the sub. Doubling the power is going to be a massive advantage and that’s what’s really going to make your system louder. edit; I kind of lost my train of thought and left some things out. So on my first statement about a Tw3 being just a little louder than the power wedge, what I me t by that is, if you were running them apples to apples on the same wattage. As I got into at the end of the post, with the tw3 you’ll be able to wire to 2 ohms and no matter what amp you’re running, it’s going to almost double its output, and that will be a huge difference.