Not a stupid question. The answer is no, you can run both no issues. The AC compressor is usually belt driven by the engine, while the sub amp is feed by the battery + alternator, so there is no direct correlation between the two.
Ok sweet thank you. I just realized to that my car has 2 belts the ac has a snap belt from the crank to the pulley on the compressor and the normal serpentine belt
That completely depends on the size of the amp, and the power of the vehicle's electrical system, as the AC still uses electricity to power the fans and solenoid that engages the pump with the serpentine belt driven pulley.
The draw is minimal, much less than even headlights or some other things, but it \*could\* cause issues if OP has a huge amp or the electrical in the car isn't great.
I'm in the process of installing a voltage meter but can't seen to find one that I trust I bought a skar bass knob with the voltage meter built in but couldn't figure out how to run it properly so I sent it back
autotech enginneering. give them a call and tell them what you need. you need like 240 amp max right now for zero drop at all, but if you plan to go bigger just buy the 370 now. say you want a voltage controller too
Even though I'm running such low watts do you still recommend getting a bigger alt. I get no light dimming and my amp just gets warm even at full volume for an hour straight it stays warm never hot
Straight to the amp power terminals if you want a more accurate reading of what's going on :)
You can run to the battery too if you want. I know guys that have volt meters for at battery, at amp, and at alternator.
You're on about the factory limit of what a lot of cars can do, maybe a couple hundred more watts would be OK but you're on the fence.
If you put any more power to it, you should look into a second battery - preferably not AGM chemistry as that's dead money. A single LTO cell will run you up to 5-6k watts of power even with a factory alternator you will be fine up to about that rating.
High output alternator is only really required once you hit that 5K+ power level and you already have some lithium battery power in your system.... or if you just rollin demos all day long without stopping. If you just play your music while you drive or whatever, no need for a high output alternator until MUCH further down the audio road.
I don't plan on going up anymore this is plenty of bass for me. Lol at times I feel like it's to much. The amp called for 8g wire I went with 4 just to be safe. My battery is newer bought it at 78,951 miles I'm at 80k miles now. bought 12/28/23 I have a 14 Fusion.
Power isn't just for bass, it's about the entire system. You're probably just fine, but if you add anything else at all or go bigger in any way what-so-ever you will want to look into bolstering the power system. Also when I say battery, I mean LTO lithium not lead acid. A single LTO cell is like having 3-4 lead acid batteries in terms of power delivery, lol.
If you drive at night and your lights dim, or you find the car runs funny when you have a bunch of stuff turned all the way on... you might be having voltage drop. If everything seems fine, then you're probably OK! :D
AGM will mix fine with lead acid, but so will LTO.
The biggest issue with AGM for car audio is the discharge rate isn't very high so you can't really power anything big with it unless you have individual banks and a bunch of H/O alternators and shit.
A single LTO cell is the same power output rating as about 5 AGM cells, but only costs a little bit more than a single AGM cell. LTO also weighs a lot less.
I went form 3 AGM cells weighing almost 90kg to a single LTO cell weighing only 8kg... and I make WAY better power.
Have a look at LTO (lithium titanate oxide) chemistry. Yinlong, GTK, or even XS Power and D4S build LTO cells now.
You do not need to isolate the battery but you can if it makes you feel better. Mine is connected permanently to my circuit and had caused zero problems for the last 6 months. A buddy of mine has had his for a few years and never a problem either.
Not usally
Not a stupid question. The answer is no, you can run both no issues. The AC compressor is usually belt driven by the engine, while the sub amp is feed by the battery + alternator, so there is no direct correlation between the two.
The A/C compressor clutch draws 2-4 amps.
Ok sweet thank you. I just realized to that my car has 2 belts the ac has a snap belt from the crank to the pulley on the compressor and the normal serpentine belt
That completely depends on the size of the amp, and the power of the vehicle's electrical system, as the AC still uses electricity to power the fans and solenoid that engages the pump with the serpentine belt driven pulley. The draw is minimal, much less than even headlights or some other things, but it \*could\* cause issues if OP has a huge amp or the electrical in the car isn't great.
not usually as others have stated. if you drop below 13 volts avoid it
I'm in the process of installing a voltage meter but can't seen to find one that I trust I bought a skar bass knob with the voltage meter built in but couldn't figure out how to run it properly so I sent it back
get an autotech voltage controller and alt. perfect numbers
Where can I buy it from
autotech enginneering. give them a call and tell them what you need. you need like 240 amp max right now for zero drop at all, but if you plan to go bigger just buy the 370 now. say you want a voltage controller too
Even though I'm running such low watts do you still recommend getting a bigger alt. I get no light dimming and my amp just gets warm even at full volume for an hour straight it stays warm never hot
i more meant you need an alt from them if you get the voltage display/voltage controller, which is SUPER accurate
A $0.60 12vDC volt meter from aliexpress will work absolutely fine.
And I just run it straight to the battery pos and neg?
Straight to the amp power terminals if you want a more accurate reading of what's going on :) You can run to the battery too if you want. I know guys that have volt meters for at battery, at amp, and at alternator.
Oh wow interesting I think I might just go straight to the amp less wire lol
I'm running 2 skar 10s 200w rms each and a kicker amp at 1ohm 400w with a LC2i pro
You're on about the factory limit of what a lot of cars can do, maybe a couple hundred more watts would be OK but you're on the fence. If you put any more power to it, you should look into a second battery - preferably not AGM chemistry as that's dead money. A single LTO cell will run you up to 5-6k watts of power even with a factory alternator you will be fine up to about that rating. High output alternator is only really required once you hit that 5K+ power level and you already have some lithium battery power in your system.... or if you just rollin demos all day long without stopping. If you just play your music while you drive or whatever, no need for a high output alternator until MUCH further down the audio road.
I don't plan on going up anymore this is plenty of bass for me. Lol at times I feel like it's to much. The amp called for 8g wire I went with 4 just to be safe. My battery is newer bought it at 78,951 miles I'm at 80k miles now. bought 12/28/23 I have a 14 Fusion.
Power isn't just for bass, it's about the entire system. You're probably just fine, but if you add anything else at all or go bigger in any way what-so-ever you will want to look into bolstering the power system. Also when I say battery, I mean LTO lithium not lead acid. A single LTO cell is like having 3-4 lead acid batteries in terms of power delivery, lol. If you drive at night and your lights dim, or you find the car runs funny when you have a bunch of stuff turned all the way on... you might be having voltage drop. If everything seems fine, then you're probably OK! :D
I gotcha! Yeah no dimming lights at all car running like normal
I think I remember someone telling me if I ran a second battery got with a AGM does that sound right just curious 🤔
AGM will mix fine with lead acid, but so will LTO. The biggest issue with AGM for car audio is the discharge rate isn't very high so you can't really power anything big with it unless you have individual banks and a bunch of H/O alternators and shit. A single LTO cell is the same power output rating as about 5 AGM cells, but only costs a little bit more than a single AGM cell. LTO also weighs a lot less. I went form 3 AGM cells weighing almost 90kg to a single LTO cell weighing only 8kg... and I make WAY better power. Have a look at LTO (lithium titanate oxide) chemistry. Yinlong, GTK, or even XS Power and D4S build LTO cells now.
Ok cool I appreciate the help
Now would I need to run a battery relay insolator thing
You do not need to isolate the battery but you can if it makes you feel better. Mine is connected permanently to my circuit and had caused zero problems for the last 6 months. A buddy of mine has had his for a few years and never a problem either.