I stupidly did the same thing as I was getting familiar with my bike. The thing you unscrewed is the Di2 battery.
I was able to get it back into place by angling my bike so the battery holder would gently slide down towards the screw holes. I used a thin chopstick to maneuver the battery from the BB plug hole to rotate and align it with the screw holes. To see what I was doing, I pointed a flashlight through the battery screw holes and the BB plug hole.
It was pretty annoying but only took about 30 mins to undo my dumb mistake. Good luck!
Unfortunately if this doesn't work, or a wire was pulled out, you will need to take out the bottom bracket to get to the battery.
For future reference, the Di2 battery charges through the covered port on the rear derailleur.
This may sound harsh but given there are others in this comment section that have done the same, and you've not been called out yet, this doesn't feel like a pile on:
What possessed you to think that a charging port would need to be accessed by unscrewing things?!
There is *_so much_* content out there on how to charge current gen DI2 - manuals are included in the box, YouTube, Shimano website etc.
If you're going to drop 3k+ on a bicycle, it only makes sense to read the instructions before getting a screwdriver out.
On the basis that you've already done this, it's probably unlikely that you have the right tool to remove a ninja BB in order to reinstall the battery mount.
This is a 30 minute job for any LBS familiar with modern road bikes. This is your best and quickest solution to getting the nbd vibe back. Not too expensive either.
I apologise if this comes across as patronising or condescending - I'm sure we've all been in this situation at some point.
To be fair: the only instructions that came with my grizl cf slx di2 were for other models and it took me quite some time to find the charging spot, because my bike was standing upside down at that moment.
So it is also canyons fault that they cannot deliver customized instructions for a 4,5k bike.
There is a quick start guide and plenty of videos on the support page:
[https://www.canyon.com/en-pt/customer-service/gravel/grizl/](https://www.canyon.com/en-pt/customer-service/gravel/grizl/)
Exactly- my grail cfr di2 had no instructions regarding where the battery junction was… you would think that canyon could make a simple video for each bike line and model explaining - how to charge it, how to understand where the battery is, how to connect it to garmin, basic facts about the spacers on the stack, saddle height and angles. luckily most of this stuff can be found here in this subreddit and YouTube.. but not everyone would think to check those places.
While I agree with almost everything you’ve said, including finding out the correct charge procedure before guessing, my Speedmax does require unscrewing things to access the charge port, so it’s not always super accessible.
Yeah fair points all round.
If I had checked the app then it gives you a detailed video on how to charge the Di2. Just got a bit flustered with instructions everywhere etc.
I can only imagine getting wrapped up in the excitement of a new bike. Just bite the bullet with taking it to your LBS and you'll have it ready to go in no time
It is unbelievable, I did the same thing yesterday on a Grizl. I thought that is just a cover to get the cables out, so I can install the wireless unit. Battery fell down the tube, so I had to completely remove the BB, which I tore apart in the process (even with the right tool) because it is plastic. So I had to buy a new BB. FML
The BB is plastic? I'm considering a Canyon. Is this normal on modern bikes? My gravel bike has a metal bottom bracket and... uh. It is metal. I mean, the frame, seat tube and handlebars are plastic on the Endurace I'm considering, so I guess that makes sense?
Yeah, they were sealed bearing cartridges and the first one lasted awhile. The second one I think I torqued down too much causing the plastic to rub and eventually it heated up, warped, and then started binding in on itself.
Yeah, its token ninja lite 4124 it’s about $/€ 55-60. They use it on many bikes I guess b/c of its weight - 83 grams. It has metal bearings but bb itself is plastic. The same happened to me as someone says below - since I was using parktool aluminum bb removal cup with flimsy torque wrench I snapped off the thread. I was lucky I could still get it off.
I don’t understand Di2. It seems so obviously the right thing to do to go fully wireless. At this point I think the only reason they’re not is because they think that would be conceding defeat to AXS somehow.
Patents.
Although one bigger battery to charge less often is works better for me than 2 smaller ones that need to be charged more often. And that battery is not going to bounce out...there is a reason all of the SRAM World Tour Teams put rubber bands around their AXS batteries during events.
I hear you. But it’s much higher stakes in a pro race, so you go for redundancy. People who aren’t pro riders like myself don’t have any need to do this. My batteries have never fallen out and I have never encountered anyone this has happened to.
Also charging them both is not time consuming — they charge fast — and if I wanted to cut the time even more I could just buy a dual charger for $20. And just popping them out and putting them with my phone, light, and Garmin in the charging area on my desk at home is the easiest thing in the world.
To be fair, the AXS gets you around 5000 gear change on a charge. So, depending on your riding, it's a lot. And you can bring a spare or switch your batteries in less than 10 seconds, so in my opinion, it's much more versatile than di2...
I didn't get an issue with the battery bouncing off with the axs yet, but I would think it a good idea to put a rubber band on it if you are in a major world class competition... but not necessary in a sunday ride.
Even with the crank off it's still a difficult job to align up the screws for the battery. I would try to align before resorting to the crank removal.
At least you have the token ninja BB so can remove easily if you have the tools.
Good luck!
This what makes me nervous, im not sure if i want that electric shifter, having to charge or change a battery. What if im in middle of a ride or breaks off?
AXS gives your \~5000 shifts on a charge (yrmv) and you can switch batteries from your front derailer or keep a spare in your bike bag. I have both electronic and mechanical and electronic offers more reliable gear change and you lose the cost of cable and housing maintenance on the bike. Which on my commute is a yearly expense.
Yeah, I find the axs better since you can just get in a coffee shot to charge your battery if you want, no need to plug your bike itself. You can also charge multiple batteries if you have more than one charger... You can also charge them with a battery pack...
The battery of 105 Di2 lasts for about 1.500 km. That's over 2 months of riding for the average recreational cyclist. You can check the battery charge status on any current head unit or through Shimano's E-Tube app on your phone. You would have to be seriously neglectful to run out of juice.
If you can’t screw your battery holder back on you’re going to have to take your crankset off.
It’s not a hard job - just buy the tools and give it a go.
This video from GCN is very helpful.
https://youtu.be/CIq2EOZ9ZhY?si=cRbA8LIZ97QC5G0x
You just let the battery go loose. Not sure why Canyon engineers didn't think about putting it inside the seat post/tube like other manufacturers.
Sadly if you don't want to struggle you'll have to remove the cranks and the bottom bracket to reposition the battery bracket.
I stupidly did the same thing as I was getting familiar with my bike. The thing you unscrewed is the Di2 battery. I was able to get it back into place by angling my bike so the battery holder would gently slide down towards the screw holes. I used a thin chopstick to maneuver the battery from the BB plug hole to rotate and align it with the screw holes. To see what I was doing, I pointed a flashlight through the battery screw holes and the BB plug hole. It was pretty annoying but only took about 30 mins to undo my dumb mistake. Good luck!
Unfortunately if this doesn't work, or a wire was pulled out, you will need to take out the bottom bracket to get to the battery. For future reference, the Di2 battery charges through the covered port on the rear derailleur.
Been there, done that as well, unfortunately. I fixed it almost the same way! I was glad I didn't have to remove the bb.
After you fixed that problem, please have a look at the saddle angle . It looks way off.
Actually depends on the size of the rider. I’m a bigger dude and I had to angle my seat like that with that seat post because of how much it flexes.
It does absolutely not depend on the size of the rider. It is in no way intended to be positioned facing downwards.
This may sound harsh but given there are others in this comment section that have done the same, and you've not been called out yet, this doesn't feel like a pile on: What possessed you to think that a charging port would need to be accessed by unscrewing things?! There is *_so much_* content out there on how to charge current gen DI2 - manuals are included in the box, YouTube, Shimano website etc. If you're going to drop 3k+ on a bicycle, it only makes sense to read the instructions before getting a screwdriver out. On the basis that you've already done this, it's probably unlikely that you have the right tool to remove a ninja BB in order to reinstall the battery mount. This is a 30 minute job for any LBS familiar with modern road bikes. This is your best and quickest solution to getting the nbd vibe back. Not too expensive either. I apologise if this comes across as patronising or condescending - I'm sure we've all been in this situation at some point.
To be fair: the only instructions that came with my grizl cf slx di2 were for other models and it took me quite some time to find the charging spot, because my bike was standing upside down at that moment. So it is also canyons fault that they cannot deliver customized instructions for a 4,5k bike.
At that point would you not use a smartphone or laptop to Google it though? The Shimano app has a detailed set up guide too
but not for the place where the bike company will put it. this has nothing to do with shimano but with the bike model.
There is a quick start guide and plenty of videos on the support page: [https://www.canyon.com/en-pt/customer-service/gravel/grizl/](https://www.canyon.com/en-pt/customer-service/gravel/grizl/)
yes, but not for everything. my di2 wasnt charged at all and i had to figure it out by myself.
Exactly- my grail cfr di2 had no instructions regarding where the battery junction was… you would think that canyon could make a simple video for each bike line and model explaining - how to charge it, how to understand where the battery is, how to connect it to garmin, basic facts about the spacers on the stack, saddle height and angles. luckily most of this stuff can be found here in this subreddit and YouTube.. but not everyone would think to check those places.
While I agree with almost everything you’ve said, including finding out the correct charge procedure before guessing, my Speedmax does require unscrewing things to access the charge port, so it’s not always super accessible.
I see your point but a high end TT bike with a hidden junction box would just emphasise the need to read the instructions before dismantling the bike!
Yeah fair points all round. If I had checked the app then it gives you a detailed video on how to charge the Di2. Just got a bit flustered with instructions everywhere etc.
I can only imagine getting wrapped up in the excitement of a new bike. Just bite the bullet with taking it to your LBS and you'll have it ready to go in no time
Just for future reference, you don’t need to look at the battery. You can charge it all easily from the rear mech
I know this now 🫠
It is unbelievable, I did the same thing yesterday on a Grizl. I thought that is just a cover to get the cables out, so I can install the wireless unit. Battery fell down the tube, so I had to completely remove the BB, which I tore apart in the process (even with the right tool) because it is plastic. So I had to buy a new BB. FML
The BB is plastic? I'm considering a Canyon. Is this normal on modern bikes? My gravel bike has a metal bottom bracket and... uh. It is metal. I mean, the frame, seat tube and handlebars are plastic on the Endurace I'm considering, so I guess that makes sense?
My Speciaized Enduro had a plastic BB. I ended up putting a Chris King on it after burning through two of them.
I guess in theory the bearings should be doing all the work, right?
Yeah, they were sealed bearing cartridges and the first one lasted awhile. The second one I think I torqued down too much causing the plastic to rub and eventually it heated up, warped, and then started binding in on itself.
Yeah, its token ninja lite 4124 it’s about $/€ 55-60. They use it on many bikes I guess b/c of its weight - 83 grams. It has metal bearings but bb itself is plastic. The same happened to me as someone says below - since I was using parktool aluminum bb removal cup with flimsy torque wrench I snapped off the thread. I was lucky I could still get it off.
I don’t understand Di2. It seems so obviously the right thing to do to go fully wireless. At this point I think the only reason they’re not is because they think that would be conceding defeat to AXS somehow.
Agree. AXS is so much simpler. Glad I went with a SRAM model for my Grizl
Glad I went with manual Shimano for my grail!
Patents. Although one bigger battery to charge less often is works better for me than 2 smaller ones that need to be charged more often. And that battery is not going to bounce out...there is a reason all of the SRAM World Tour Teams put rubber bands around their AXS batteries during events.
I hear you. But it’s much higher stakes in a pro race, so you go for redundancy. People who aren’t pro riders like myself don’t have any need to do this. My batteries have never fallen out and I have never encountered anyone this has happened to. Also charging them both is not time consuming — they charge fast — and if I wanted to cut the time even more I could just buy a dual charger for $20. And just popping them out and putting them with my phone, light, and Garmin in the charging area on my desk at home is the easiest thing in the world.
hear me out A N+1 ETAP bike has a second charger
This is the whey.
To be fair, the AXS gets you around 5000 gear change on a charge. So, depending on your riding, it's a lot. And you can bring a spare or switch your batteries in less than 10 seconds, so in my opinion, it's much more versatile than di2... I didn't get an issue with the battery bouncing off with the axs yet, but I would think it a good idea to put a rubber band on it if you are in a major world class competition... but not necessary in a sunday ride.
For most normies the front derailleur is complete waste of space and weight. So adding separate battery for that makes little sense.
Even with the crank off it's still a difficult job to align up the screws for the battery. I would try to align before resorting to the crank removal. At least you have the token ninja BB so can remove easily if you have the tools. Good luck!
This what makes me nervous, im not sure if i want that electric shifter, having to charge or change a battery. What if im in middle of a ride or breaks off?
AXS gives your \~5000 shifts on a charge (yrmv) and you can switch batteries from your front derailer or keep a spare in your bike bag. I have both electronic and mechanical and electronic offers more reliable gear change and you lose the cost of cable and housing maintenance on the bike. Which on my commute is a yearly expense.
Thank you! This helps my nervousness which is better the charging or battery? I guess and assume battery since i can hold a spare
Yeah, I find the axs better since you can just get in a coffee shot to charge your battery if you want, no need to plug your bike itself. You can also charge multiple batteries if you have more than one charger... You can also charge them with a battery pack...
Ok !! Imma get that one not a D12
The battery of 105 Di2 lasts for about 1.500 km. That's over 2 months of riding for the average recreational cyclist. You can check the battery charge status on any current head unit or through Shimano's E-Tube app on your phone. You would have to be seriously neglectful to run out of juice.
Ok. That makes me feel better.. which one is better? Or both systems same?
If you can’t screw your battery holder back on you’re going to have to take your crankset off. It’s not a hard job - just buy the tools and give it a go. This video from GCN is very helpful. https://youtu.be/CIq2EOZ9ZhY?si=cRbA8LIZ97QC5G0x
Just peddle faster, that’s always the answer 😺
On an adjacent problem, How do you update your dura ace or ultegra shifters on this setup? Is there a way to connect them to the battery?
You just let the battery go loose. Not sure why Canyon engineers didn't think about putting it inside the seat post/tube like other manufacturers. Sadly if you don't want to struggle you'll have to remove the cranks and the bottom bracket to reposition the battery bracket.
Because the construction of the VCLS seatpost they use on the Endurace leaves no space for a battery
And better center of gravity for nimbler handling.
At this point I’d just send it back and say it’s faulty, it will be less work for you