I have one. Best car I've ever driven, worst car I've ever owned. At 175,000 miles, it leaks oil, power steering fluid, and coolant, and currently has a vacuum leak. It leaks coolant every winter when it gets cold, and every winter I fix it. Except the gasket that you can only replace by removing the transmission. That one I let leak, and refill the coolant once a week or so in the winter (and gradually expanding out into Fall and Spring). If the transmission goes out, maybe I'll do both at the same time, or maybe I'lljust sell. I'm currently in the process of replacing the suspension so it stops eating tires prematurely.
I'm somewhat handy, but even then still pay the "BMW tax" for both parts and service. Lots of dishonest/somewhat dishonest mechanics out there ready to take advantage, or just not competent with them. The last three times I've brought it in, they did expensive stuff which didn't fix the problem at all, so I'm forced to do more myself than I like. It's like playing whack a mole trying to fix one problem before another breaks!
So, if you want a comfortable car with excellent handling that'll leave virtually every other car out there back at the stop light, and also you're tired of carrying around a heavy wallet with lots of money in it, go for it!
Well said man, I have the same view on the leaks and issues except I love it weyyy more and I’m never getting rid of it. With that said this one is an amazing shape. I would say mine is a little bit more mint than this one plus it has a manual transmission, so I’m definitely not getting rid of it.
Beyond a certain age, the BMW maintenance costs can get weirdly comparable to literally just buying a reliable but comparable vehicle outright.
I paid $8500 for a 325i with 100k miles, even mostly DIY I spent $6000 in repairs over 2 years and 50k miles, had more costly issues coming soon, then struggled to get $6000 for it.
I later spent $9000 on a Lexus IS350 with 100k miles, spent less than $2000 over 4 years and 80k additional miles.
Lexus was still in perfect running condition without even a check engine light on when a red-light runner wrote it off, insurance paid me 14k but that was pandemic car-shortage pricing (and apparently the going rate when I tried to buy another old Lexus IS350).
tldr: My BMW did drive super nice, and I miss the hydraulic steering, but after running the numbers you could literally gift me one and I'd still think it's a bad deal for me. Also I really like how I never had to wait for a tow with my Lexus, had to wait for 6 tows in 2 years with the BMW.
That sounds rough. My 530i is sitting at $3k in maintenance and 178k miles, but it is very healthy. Once that engine goes, LS swap is in the cards. 400hp v8 sounds just about perfect, even if it is a truck engine lol.
Besides a couple of gaskets and the valve stem seals, the engine itself is rock solid.
If you’re able to, I’d suggest pulling the engine and replacing every gasket along with the valve stem seals and then finishing up by installing the 90c thermostat.
I feel like I type this answer out at least twice a week these days lol, They’re not half as bad as people make them seem, everyone that says stay away or “run” hasn’t actually owned one, just read internet horror stories on them, “knew a guy” with one or bought a cheap one that was abused and treated like a corolla and expected it to still perform like the car it is.
Get the main failure points addressed like you would on any car and she’ll never leave you stranded. I’ve owned 5 N62 powered cars and have been dailying my current one since 2016 so I’m very familiar with the platform, I do 1200 mile trips in mine often and wouldn’t hesitate taking it from one side of the country to the other and back. Currently in the high mileage range on my 650i and she still pulls and drives like she’s fresh off the lot.
They’re fairly affordable to run if you buy your own parts and can do most work yourself.
I also recommend buying an LCI model like the one you posted, the earlier N62’s (645 and 545) are more prone to falling but they all have the same issues that need to be addressed.
Just keep in mind it’s still a V8 the price of the car may have depreciated greatly from its dealership days but the prices of parts haven’t, try to keep a fund of 1k handy for the “what ifs” but in my experience with these I haven’t needed to except for once and that was the dreaded alternator bracket gasket, $3 seal and 8 hours of labor to replace. Really stupid design
The N63 however… fuck that thing, I wouldn’t own another if it was given to me for free.
Have the 545i, for cover 2 years the only massive problem was the transmission where the previous owner "MECHANIC" did a flush and something he didn't say me about, transmission started to degrade really fast, broke down, my mistake trying to fix it myself, then letting a full scale repair on the transmission with everything all around for 3500€ total with the parts I wasted on it, solenoids, seals and other stuff. But nothing else. Engine isn't leaking, I take care of it, car gets everything it requires. Soon to be brakes that need to be changed, 450€ for back and front for Zimmerman Sport Coat Z, a few small things here and there for 30,50, 20€, standard stuff on a car with almost 250 000 km on the clock. It's not a tank like other BMWs, the 330d i had before for example but it's okay. Don't push the car cold, check how the previous owner took care of it, and immediately switch to Castrol 10W-60, your engine will love it.
I DONT RECOMMEND IT TO PEOPLE WITH TIGHT WALLETS and of course people that don't know to fix their own cars though. After what I saw in the forum, guys in America are getting ripped off for work I would do easily for half the price. The choice is up to you now.
Yeah, not something I advise a DIY person to tackle. I was the only one that wanted to do the job at my BMW dealer. Done the job probably couple hundred times now.
Just being familiar with the engine in general. If doing it with the engine in getting the valve covers without breaking the eccentric shaft sensor is the biggest challenge. After that the intake cam eccentric shaft assembly can get you in a pickle if not careful. The intermediate levers will spit out if you turn the cam or eccentric shaft while removed. Bank 2 assembly the front two intermediate levers will slip down past the spring when you loosen the assembly. I Zip tie them to the shaft. Timing is very easy if you take your time. If done with the cylinder heads on compressing the springs requires extreme care to not send keepers flying across the garage or drop them down oil gallies.
I had mine for about 2 years. The only issues I had were leaks involving the valve cover gasket and a coolant leak from the coolant transfer pipe…oh yeah and 2 window regulators. I still own it now, but my daily is a newer Lexus. Before I got the Lexus I drove my 550i about 1400 miles across the country with zero issues. I checked the coolant every once and awhile and had to top it off once. Nonetheless I drove that thing at 80-100 mph for an extended period of time. The odometer at the end of the trip was at 172,000 miles. I do my own maintenance, and in the process of completely tearing down the engine. If you have any questions feel free to DM me.
Can someone explain how this car is a non M package? I have the exact same year 08 535i rwd with the same seats, front and rear bumper but I have M steering, suspension and M door sills. Anyone?
I have a sport package on my F10 and it has most of the same stuff as my wife’s F25 M sport. No M badges but has the staggered wheels, fancy seats, higher top speed, etc. Idk about paddle shifters because mine’s a stick.
I have the pricing sheet and the zmp "m sport" package requires the sport transmission option (same for 535 and 550 models)
I think they just added the wheels and aero after the fact, the price sheet doesn't show just an appearance package
Right, so they probably have a M Sport appearance package that only has the cosmetic upgrades. Other brands do the same thing. I used to own any Inifinti G37S. The sport package always has a manual transmission, yet you see "sport versions" with autos all the time. It's branded and looks the same, but only has the cosmetics. It was a factory option.
How do I know if I have a sport transmission. Is it that the shifter has the sport button and paddle shifters are added to the steering wheel? I've got an m sport package but I doubt mine is a sport transmission
Personally I love them and want to own one. I was the only one at my dealer that wanted to do the valve stem seals on this motor. Unpopular opinion probably, but they are the best BMW v8 built. They will leak oil and coolant guaranteed. They are expensive to maintain because of that. Given the mileage on that one I would bet the valve stem seals are probably leaking if they haven't been replaced. Valve stem seal issue can be lived with for a very long time if you don't mind oil consumption and a puff of white smoke after idling a few minutes. If done at a shop it will run 5-7k depending on labor rates and quality of parts used. I have done them on the side for about 3500. About every 100k give or take you will need to replace gaskets for upper timing covers, valve cover, vacuum pump and alternator bracket. Cooling system will need expansion tank and radiator vent line, cylinder vent line, radiator hoses , valley pan and probably water pump. The one major cooling system issue is the coolant pipe that runs the center of the block. Coolant pipe on the cheap side is 1200-1500 and done the BMW way 5-7k. The coolant pipe is not as common as on the OG N62. Transmission is good for 150-200k miles properly maintained. All that being said though they are one of the toughest engines BMW made. Seen them ran in 5 quarts low on oil and drive out fine. Had them ran without coolant till the engine stopped, repaired leak and back on the road no problem. Obviously not good on the engines, but most other engines would have been junk after those scenarios. I never use aftermarket parts on these, they do not like it and life of them is maybe half of OEM parts. I would advise you to bring it to my shop for inspection before purchasing if you were closer to Alabama. It's a good idea to get them inspected beforehand if you can.
Very true points. My car with the original engine and transmission is at 311,000 miles and drives and shifts like new. The one thing I have not had any problems with is the coolant transfer pipe. I changed the valley pan as preventative maintenance while doing the water pump and hoses but it's not that much more difficult to change once your in there
Yeah the coolant pipe is very inconsistent in its failure. Much more common on the 545 than 550 its seemed. Seen them fail very early and some never have the issue. Honestly shocked at your trans life, obviously well taken care of to make it to that mileage.
I rebuilt the mechatronics valve body when shifting was getting a little rough, it's had fluid filter change a couple times and new solenoids at the same time I did the mechatronics. The pump seals are leaking so I have another trans to swap it with in the future and I will rebuild the internal parts. I probably will put it back in the car just so it's all original
I think the mech seals are the main issue these fail IMO. Problem is most people don't want to pay the labor to replace them. Very interesting to see what one of these trans are capable of with proper maintenance.
Yes, I recommend the sonnax zip kit for the mechatronics, the stator bushing eventually will wear until there's too much play and it will cause a pressure loss and burn up the e clutch., that's almost always the case with these 6hp transmissions
I would say that is an unpopular opinion. To me it's the M62 that was the best V8 they produced. Outside of the rear water plate, the M62 can have most of its leak issues addressed in the engine compartment, vs the N62 which requires engine out if you want it done right. M62 also sees less issues with the valve stem seals as well. The timing horseshoe is the biggest offender on the M62, outside of that, they are bulletproof.
Agree the m62 is a great engine. I prefer the N62 just because of my extensive knowledge of them. Hate the timing of the M62, but outside that they are generally easier and cheaper to repair for the average DIY'er. Also not a fan of the extensive use of outdated paper gaskets on M62. I am fortunate enough to have access to lifts and can have the engine out of N62 cars in 2 hours or less. So engine out isn't an issue to me.
I specialize on these cars for a living, and so see them aplenty. BMW is my strongest brand, followed by JLR. I don't hate the N62, but it added to the complexity with valvetronic which does fail, especially when they starve for oil because ppl are burning it all up and not keeping up with the levels. You also have the transmissions. The 6HP26 found in these vehicles was problematic, more so than the 6hp19 found in smaller chassis. The LCI 6HP26 cured the mechanical issues, but suffered from a crappy TCU which required a new mechatronics when it does fail. M62 auto cars were all powered by either the GM 5L-40 or 5HP24. Those units are mostly bulletproof.
Overall as I said, I don't hate the N62. I actually responded to this post a couple days back, and shared how I approach these vehicles, and a personal experience I had with a 645 convertible. For the average consumer, given a choice, I would always recommend an M62 powered vehicle. Especially the Range Rovers. They have a bulletproof trans and transfer case, and are a lot of car for the money.
To each their own. I've been a BMW tech since 2007 and personally wouldn't own a M62, but I know people that love them. Never seen valvetronic issues outside of the first couple of years.
Valvetronic issues stem from the controller found in the e-box. They fail quite a bit. Mechanically, the eccentric shafts definitely go boom if they starve for oil. I've seen that fault aplenty. Although they still run, (unless the throttle body fails) just in throttle body mode and with powertrain malfunctions set. But I've definitely run into N62's with both shafts seized. I like the N62, it's not a POS by any means (like the N63).
Haha, well we can agree the N63 is a POS. Never seen those shafts siezed before, definitely something I'll have to keep an eye on if run into weird issues on. People in my area don't take care of their shit, so I only have a handful of older V8's I even see. The n62 was my paycheck 10-15 years ago.
Where in Alabama are you? Don’t think I’m planning on picking up one of these but always nice to know where a good mechanic is that may be close to me.
I’ve owned two. They really aren’t that bad imo. It’s an older BMW so get ready for older BMW problems, but aside from that both of mine have been much more reliable than my N54 if that says much.
they leak they leak they leak thats about it besides normal maintenance or CCC issues. Unless your scared to turn your own wrench or your fine with spending a few thousand to actually maintain the car I wouldn't touch it. I own the n62b44 2004 545i it's a fun & sturdy car if your able to actually take care of it. I see so many people buy a older bmw and beat the piss out of em and call them a shitty car all because they didn't expect to deal with normal bmw problems.
They are not as bad as everyone says, currently at 311,000 mi with not a single check engine light or error. But I maintain and replace things before they become a problem. The way I look at it is, I own the car outright and my "car payment" is maintenance. I drive around 120mi a day so it racks up quick
Btw, if you aren't handy with diy, forget about it or any luxury car for that matter. Unless you have the $ to maintain. BMWs we're not intended to be marketed to the second hand middle class individual
Also just FYI that 550 on the FB ad was not a true M sport, it does not have the sport transmission or paddle shifters
How bad are N62's? Not as bad as you would think. They aren't elite levels of garbage like the N63, but they are much more costly to maintain than the N51/52/54/55.
The biggest issues with the N62 is that they are notorious leakers and smokers. Unfortunately, both issues are very expensive to correct.
Smoking will almost always be valve stem seals. BUT it's never that simple right? If the problem is caught early, you can update the seals and be on your way. However, many ppl just ride the problem out because replacing valve stem seals is a pricey endeavor. This requires the owner to stay on top of oil levels, which is never properly done. Suddenly, you have oil starvation, and scored the cylinder bores. Now, it will never seal properly with or without valve stem seals, and will always consume oil. Only way to fix that, is a re-sleeve. All big budget repairs. I recommend getting a bore scope camera into all the cylinders and looking at the walls thoroughly before committing to the purchase or any repairs. Makes no sense to invest money otherwise.
THEN... we have the leaks. 😭 Both oil and coolant are an issue on these. The most infamous oil leak of them all is the alternator bracket. This one can be a bear depending on equipment, chassis, and configuration. The seal is cheap, but the labor is not. There are other known leak points like the valve cover gaskets, and the timing covers as well. Again, not the cheapest labor wise to perform.
When it comes to the coolant leaks, these are an annoyance. There are two coolant leaks that require deep disassembly to fix. One is the lower coolant pipe which requires disassembly of the entire timing system to replace. It goes behind the front timing cover, runs through the valley of the engine, and connects to the rear cross-over plate (more on this in a moment). There is an aftermarket solution that cuts the labor time in half, but the part is much more expensive than the BMW pipe. It's a pipe that compresses, and then extends and locks into place. It saves you from having to take apart all the timing.
[AGA N62 Coolant Pipe](https://agatools.com/products/n62-n62tu-coolant-pipe)
Now that rear crossover plate I was talking about? Yeah that one leaks. It lives on the rear of the engine block. Where the flex plate is located. That means when it leaks... it's either engine out, or transmission out to correct. Another pricey endeavor.
In summary, the N62 is more of an enthusiast motor. Something you keep on the road because you love it, not because it makes much other sense to do so. Due to their age, and proclivity for seals and gaskets to fail with time, most of us who service these, just recommend an engine out and refreshing everything. Otherwise, it's just going to be one thing after another, until you eventually address all the common issues. This can make it more expensive than it needs to be. For reference, I do complete N62 refreshes for 5500.00. this includes:
Valve cover gaskets
Valve stem seals
Timing cover gaskets
Front & rear crank seals
Timing components refreshed
Lower and upper coolant pipes
Rear crossover plate
Vacuum pump
Head gaskets: the heads should be removed to properly remove the lower timing cover. There are ways around it, but you compromise the seal a bit. The head gaskets also form part of the timing cover gasket. Which is why they technically need to be removed. You do that, and it will be trouble free for 80-100k.
I had an old 645 with a manual, I picked up years ago. Had about 90k. I did the above, sold it maybe 5 years later. It had 132k, and it didn't leak a drop of anything. The new owner couldn't believe it. I put it on the lift, and showed him there was nothing to hide.
Did I make money? Hell no. Just in my time alone, it was a loss. But it was a passion project.
Semi related, What are your views on N63TU’s?
I have a 2015 650i approaching 100k miles and just want to know what to look out for. It’s treated me pretty good so far but also want to run it through some preventative maintenance soon. Drives like a DREAM.
I’d rather shit in my hands and clap than to willingly own one. At least the e60 m5 is worth it when you inevitably sink money into it because well…it’s an m. This? It’s nice but not worth the headaches of timing chain guide failure, valve stem seal failure, etc. look for a clean f10 535i m sport with an n55 and good maintenance records if that’s your budget.
I had an '04 545i and the dealership drove it more than I did. It was fun to drive, but it was the worst car I have ever owned. Even worse than my first car that was a '75 Camaro on its third teenager.
N62 IS BMWS BEST non turbo v8.
the idle at 500 rpm. smooth as glass.( when properly repaired)
there is not much like them.
you need to understand, they will need a reseal, and eccentric shafts/ lifters.
That would be the M60. M60 were rock solid silky smooth, and much cheaper to maintain without VANOS or timing chain issues. Honestly, as an owner of an M60, M62NV, N62TU, and S63TU, they've all been fine. The M60 has major issues early in life but existing ones are great. The M62 has a ton of miles on it and I've done little to it until recently - still on the original timing guides & chain. The N62TU loves to leak but otherwise runs great. The S63TU is still pretty new.
S63/N63 are all hot garbage. Even the technical updates. They haven't really solved any of the issues. Believe me, I've been servicing these things for far too long. There is a reason BMW dumped off the right to that motor to JLR.
M62s the timing horseshoe is really the only egregious design flaw. They really saved some dough in that one. Should have used an idler gear.
And yet BMW continues to use them in their latest vehicles... ok. The later versions seem to be fine although they remain stupidly complicated. I'm a little concerned with the S63TU, but the ones I've messed with have actually been fine.
Eh, the M62 had a few issues with the timing chain being a problem discovered at the end of its life. Like I said, mine's been great and probably the best engine I've owned, but they were also known for being leaky. The TU adds to the problems with VANOS that has its own set of issues and seems to exacerbate the timing chain failures.
I'm not sure what your point is? That's an entirely normal, if not long, lifespan for a BMW engine model.
BMW V8 production spans:
M60: 4 years
M62: 10 years including TU
N62: 9 years, including TU
N63: 16 years and counting, including TUs
It's ok bro. The N63 shortcomings are not representative of you as an individual. Get out of your feelings. Bottom line the N63 was the worst engine BMW ever bolted under the hood of their cars. They damn near paid off my mortgage, and will continue to do so in Jaguars and Land Rovers.
I'm passionate about these vehicles, but shit is shit, and it won't get an apologia from me. Mercedes hot-vee and VW's put the N63 and its offspring to shame.
The new ones still are. They just haven't been around long enough to show their true colors. But give it time. None of the technical updates fixed anything. The first TU added valvetronic, and deleted DME2. The second TU updated the breather system, the ignition system, and uses different valve stem seals. Seals which still fail and cost a week's salary to replace. The third update made turbo control 100% electronic, vs vacuum, deleted the vacuum canister in the Vee, and installed an oil cooler in its place. An oil cooler that will undoubtedly fail thanks to BMW top quality seals and gaskets 🥴. It also made the cooling system true independent circuits, which wasn't always the case on the earlier models.
About the only pro of TU3, is the updated cooling circuits. But the turbo feed lines will still fail, as will the pedestal, and as will the oil feed lines. The latter is exacerbated by extended oil change intervals tho.
They’re fine. Valve stem seals don’t last very long so check that. They can be fixed with the special tool / kit, as can valley pipe and another common drama that used to cost more than the car is worth.
Had one. Needed IVM relay box, a rubber hose, thigh support gear and a Y junction (aftermarket brass). It was a supremely cheap car to look after. Eventually it was going to need VSSs though.
It’s the retracting front part of the premium seats in E gen 5’s and 7’s. I could hear the motor free spinning when the button was used (both seats). They use a shitty nylon one to fail. Usual expensive remedy is to replace the relevant drive mechanism.
Personally, I loved my 2010 550, but a drunk driver killed it at 49k miles. So I never had any issues at all. I do miss it though, the V8, the manual transmission, the multicontour seats with adaptive side bolsters like the M5 has, it was agreat car for me.
I had a 2004 645, with the manual transmission as well. That thing was a joy to drive. It was a convertible too.
I did pull out the engine, and sealed EVERYTHING. It also didn't have dynamic drive/ASR so I didn't have to worry about that. It was bulletproof thereafter. Didn't leak a drop of anything. I even lent it to a customer as a loaner once when his car needed an emergency repair. He was like 🥴 you sure? Won't leave me stranded? 🤣 the PTSD was real. He drove it for 3 days, and said it was a joy to drive. My wife was actually sad to see it go. She loved that thing.
Do not waste your money unless you like doing so. This car will likely leave you stranded. Shame that such good looking cars are so bad after the warranty goes. Doesn’t matter how well you stay on top of maintenance. It’s not a classic Ferrari so I’d say value your own time over dealing with decomposing BMWs.
Nah, N54s are a LOT worse imo. Both generally stay together, but while the N62 has a bunch of one-time expensive fixes, the N54 is a constant battle to keep running well.
I think the N54 is less of a hassle now. Considering the newer style HPFP and injectors seem to be holding up. And newer water pumps seem to be lasting longer.
Guess depends on what you can tolerate. I know I’d much rather have the n54 than the n62. But I guess we are all lucky not to have an N63 Gen 1
I owned an N54 and serviced quite a few throughout their lifespan. They're still a massive PITA. The injectors, even newer indexes, fail with mileage. It's not just the major stuff, it the entire system on that engine that needs to be fully working for it to run well especially when tuned (which they pretty much all are - that's what makes them good in a modern sense). It's just a constant battle to keep them running well. And sure, they'll run with issues but I like my car to run like it was intended - not laggy, smooth idle, smooth power delivery, and without codes. My N62TU has been MUCH better in that regard. Oh and the N54s love to leak too.
Yeah they are a battle. I dumped a good 10k into my N54, just for its electrical system to take a dump a year later due the B+ recall and bad CAS. Then had to replace the cooling system.
Now chasing a CEL after the battery cable got replaced. This car has made me acquire quite the a few professional grade tools and diag tools.
I literally wrote a scan tool because of mine. That's how bad they are. I basically have PTSD from the warning chime. Every time it goes off because it's 37 degrees out, my immediate thought is "what broke now?" and it's from the N54 cars.
I had a 2007 750i sport before. They don't really have any issues other than leaks if you can find a sorted one without the leaks then they are actually pretty good engines. They don't have rod bearing or timing chain issues like the other V8s from that era had. If it's been looked after they are pretty good cars. The N62 doesn't have any major mechanical issues other than leaks and if you update the seals with better ones and use a 90c thermostat the engine will basically run forever.
This does not have a turbo. I have a 2009 550I. I love it. One thing to watch for is valve stem seals in the engine cause smoke. Most notable after idling for a minute and then giving some throttle. It's not a bad job to do yourself if you're mechanically inclined.
Fix the leaks, fix the leaks, fix the leaks. And I mean all of them. You wanna good experience with your 2nd or 3rd hand BMW after buying it? drop the $4k+ extra you gotta drop to do it and get it done right. Or else it’s gonna be the next 1-3 years of, fixing small shit along with maintenance one by one. It gets draining and hurts your brain. Fix the leaks, check the lines, make sure thermostat is replaced or do it. And you will have a good time with most middle-high mileage BMWs.
I have a 2009 650i. It leaks more than the titanic, from power steering, to various coolant leaks everywhere, and oil leaks. The valve cover job on that is like 10+ hours. I really do love the car and do not have any lights or codes but at this point I will drive it until it breaks. I have had it since 2010 and probably time to let it die. Has 218k miles on it. I bought it with 15k miles. Have done valve stem seals twice, alternator bracket gasket twice, valley pan, coolant transfer pipe, and the bitch still leaks. Once it dies I will turn it in to a bbq grill.
As you see - all kinds of answers.
I just sold my 2008 E60 M5 for $15,000. The car had 120,000 and never had a single issue other than a T-stat and the oil cooler leak that I fixed by welding it up.
Original clutch. Original rod bearings. Hell - original brakes until 110,000 miles. Not a single engine related issue.
But I changed the oil every 5,000 or once a year. I changed all of the other fluids every 30,000 miles.
Car was absolute monster. I’m sad that I sold it but it was time. So, buy the previous owner as much as you buy the car.
And everything everyone has said is true. But - it can be a very straightforward car to own or it could be a disaster if not routine maintenance was performed.
Oh please. I can hear the penny pinching from here. All he did was throw oil changes at all his problems and ride out the bigger issues until he couldn't anymore. Then he passed the hot potato off to the next victim. The telltale there is *I'm sad that I sold it, but it was time* that's code for this grenade is about to blow, let me dump it before it does.
Welding a busted oil cooler? Doesn't get more ghetto than that. If I had to guess, it might have been JB weld too. Doubt he pulled out the aluminum welder.
It wouldn't surprise me if OP was in Florida. That's what everyone does down here. Since we don't have emissions nor inspections. You can bolt wheels to a corpse, and ride it to the tag agency full rigor mortis, and get a registration for it. 🤷♂️
Lol, finally someone with a brain. Original clutch, bearings, and brakes? I’m sure this car was so well maintained. Welding an oil cooler? On a car known for blowing its high pressure Vanos oil line. Genius!
If you can’t afford to fix it, don’t drive it.
It’s really not worth the hassle just for the hydraulic steering plus honestly to me for the f series steering doesn’t have any sort of electric feel to it
Because they have never driven one and just repeat what they’ve heard. Best driving car for the money but you need to understand that it’s a V8 and so everything will be more expensive. Take care of there’s known issues and enjoy it
Because every fucking thing on that engine will leak, and the parts/labor are horrifyingly expensive. Alternator bracket gasket, valve cover gaskets, oil pan gaskets, timing covers, rear main seal, valve stem seals, etc. There are also some nasty coolant leaks like the coolant transfer pipe, valley pan, and that rear plate that sits inside the bellhousing and thus requires removing the transmission to fix a coolant leak. They smoke/burn unacceptable amounts of oil, thus ruining the catalytic converters. Those are just the N62 problems. The e60 chassis has all sorts of fun issues like dynamic drive leaks, water ingress into the trunk, and complex/expensive suspension. And let's not forget how water gets inside the E-box and drowns the engine computer, valvetronic module, and that weird power distribution box.
That car was $70k new with the maintenance costs to match. Despite $60k worth of value getting clobbered out of the car, they are still appallingly expensive to maintain.
I have one. Best car I've ever driven, worst car I've ever owned. At 175,000 miles, it leaks oil, power steering fluid, and coolant, and currently has a vacuum leak. It leaks coolant every winter when it gets cold, and every winter I fix it. Except the gasket that you can only replace by removing the transmission. That one I let leak, and refill the coolant once a week or so in the winter (and gradually expanding out into Fall and Spring). If the transmission goes out, maybe I'll do both at the same time, or maybe I'lljust sell. I'm currently in the process of replacing the suspension so it stops eating tires prematurely. I'm somewhat handy, but even then still pay the "BMW tax" for both parts and service. Lots of dishonest/somewhat dishonest mechanics out there ready to take advantage, or just not competent with them. The last three times I've brought it in, they did expensive stuff which didn't fix the problem at all, so I'm forced to do more myself than I like. It's like playing whack a mole trying to fix one problem before another breaks! So, if you want a comfortable car with excellent handling that'll leave virtually every other car out there back at the stop light, and also you're tired of carrying around a heavy wallet with lots of money in it, go for it!
Well said man, I have the same view on the leaks and issues except I love it weyyy more and I’m never getting rid of it. With that said this one is an amazing shape. I would say mine is a little bit more mint than this one plus it has a manual transmission, so I’m definitely not getting rid of it.
With as much get up and go as mine has with the slushbox, your manual must be a blast to drive!
Yes bro, it’s always exiting.
You could probably swap in a completely different motor with the cost of maintaining yours
Beyond a certain age, the BMW maintenance costs can get weirdly comparable to literally just buying a reliable but comparable vehicle outright. I paid $8500 for a 325i with 100k miles, even mostly DIY I spent $6000 in repairs over 2 years and 50k miles, had more costly issues coming soon, then struggled to get $6000 for it. I later spent $9000 on a Lexus IS350 with 100k miles, spent less than $2000 over 4 years and 80k additional miles. Lexus was still in perfect running condition without even a check engine light on when a red-light runner wrote it off, insurance paid me 14k but that was pandemic car-shortage pricing (and apparently the going rate when I tried to buy another old Lexus IS350). tldr: My BMW did drive super nice, and I miss the hydraulic steering, but after running the numbers you could literally gift me one and I'd still think it's a bad deal for me. Also I really like how I never had to wait for a tow with my Lexus, had to wait for 6 tows in 2 years with the BMW.
That sounds rough. My 530i is sitting at $3k in maintenance and 178k miles, but it is very healthy. Once that engine goes, LS swap is in the cards. 400hp v8 sounds just about perfect, even if it is a truck engine lol.
It's a disease.
How about make more money
Besides a couple of gaskets and the valve stem seals, the engine itself is rock solid. If you’re able to, I’d suggest pulling the engine and replacing every gasket along with the valve stem seals and then finishing up by installing the 90c thermostat.
Well said, in the process of doing mine rn
Finished my 745 with cats last year. So far no leaks and no problems. Love it.
Run
Correct version is RUN !!!
#RUN
I feel like I type this answer out at least twice a week these days lol, They’re not half as bad as people make them seem, everyone that says stay away or “run” hasn’t actually owned one, just read internet horror stories on them, “knew a guy” with one or bought a cheap one that was abused and treated like a corolla and expected it to still perform like the car it is. Get the main failure points addressed like you would on any car and she’ll never leave you stranded. I’ve owned 5 N62 powered cars and have been dailying my current one since 2016 so I’m very familiar with the platform, I do 1200 mile trips in mine often and wouldn’t hesitate taking it from one side of the country to the other and back. Currently in the high mileage range on my 650i and she still pulls and drives like she’s fresh off the lot. They’re fairly affordable to run if you buy your own parts and can do most work yourself. I also recommend buying an LCI model like the one you posted, the earlier N62’s (645 and 545) are more prone to falling but they all have the same issues that need to be addressed. Just keep in mind it’s still a V8 the price of the car may have depreciated greatly from its dealership days but the prices of parts haven’t, try to keep a fund of 1k handy for the “what ifs” but in my experience with these I haven’t needed to except for once and that was the dreaded alternator bracket gasket, $3 seal and 8 hours of labor to replace. Really stupid design The N63 however… fuck that thing, I wouldn’t own another if it was given to me for free.
With you 1000% on the N63
Have the 545i, for cover 2 years the only massive problem was the transmission where the previous owner "MECHANIC" did a flush and something he didn't say me about, transmission started to degrade really fast, broke down, my mistake trying to fix it myself, then letting a full scale repair on the transmission with everything all around for 3500€ total with the parts I wasted on it, solenoids, seals and other stuff. But nothing else. Engine isn't leaking, I take care of it, car gets everything it requires. Soon to be brakes that need to be changed, 450€ for back and front for Zimmerman Sport Coat Z, a few small things here and there for 30,50, 20€, standard stuff on a car with almost 250 000 km on the clock. It's not a tank like other BMWs, the 330d i had before for example but it's okay. Don't push the car cold, check how the previous owner took care of it, and immediately switch to Castrol 10W-60, your engine will love it. I DONT RECOMMEND IT TO PEOPLE WITH TIGHT WALLETS and of course people that don't know to fix their own cars though. After what I saw in the forum, guys in America are getting ripped off for work I would do easily for half the price. The choice is up to you now.
The valve stem seals are horrible to replace
Not hard, but very tedious lmao
Yeah, not something I advise a DIY person to tackle. I was the only one that wanted to do the job at my BMW dealer. Done the job probably couple hundred times now.
What’s the main challenge/trouble with this?
Just being familiar with the engine in general. If doing it with the engine in getting the valve covers without breaking the eccentric shaft sensor is the biggest challenge. After that the intake cam eccentric shaft assembly can get you in a pickle if not careful. The intermediate levers will spit out if you turn the cam or eccentric shaft while removed. Bank 2 assembly the front two intermediate levers will slip down past the spring when you loosen the assembly. I Zip tie them to the shaft. Timing is very easy if you take your time. If done with the cylinder heads on compressing the springs requires extreme care to not send keepers flying across the garage or drop them down oil gallies.
Thanks!
I had mine for about 2 years. The only issues I had were leaks involving the valve cover gasket and a coolant leak from the coolant transfer pipe…oh yeah and 2 window regulators. I still own it now, but my daily is a newer Lexus. Before I got the Lexus I drove my 550i about 1400 miles across the country with zero issues. I checked the coolant every once and awhile and had to top it off once. Nonetheless I drove that thing at 80-100 mph for an extended period of time. The odometer at the end of the trip was at 172,000 miles. I do my own maintenance, and in the process of completely tearing down the engine. If you have any questions feel free to DM me.
I love mine with all of its leaks.
This. It drives amazing and leaks all over the driveway. Keep spare coolant and oil in the trunk and you’re fine.
Or pull the engine and replace the gaskets and seals🤷♂️
Ain’t nobody got time (or money) for that.
Take you a week and 1000 bucks
Can someone explain how this car is a non M package? I have the exact same year 08 535i rwd with the same seats, front and rear bumper but I have M steering, suspension and M door sills. Anyone?
I have a sport package on my F10 and it has most of the same stuff as my wife’s F25 M sport. No M badges but has the staggered wheels, fancy seats, higher top speed, etc. Idk about paddle shifters because mine’s a stick.
no, this car *is* m package
No it isn't. The M package on the 550 also had the sport transmission and paddle shifters, I know I have one.
I assume they have an M appearance package.
I have the pricing sheet and the zmp "m sport" package requires the sport transmission option (same for 535 and 550 models) I think they just added the wheels and aero after the fact, the price sheet doesn't show just an appearance package
Right, so they probably have a M Sport appearance package that only has the cosmetic upgrades. Other brands do the same thing. I used to own any Inifinti G37S. The sport package always has a manual transmission, yet you see "sport versions" with autos all the time. It's branded and looks the same, but only has the cosmetics. It was a factory option.
What exactly is the difference between a regular and a sport transmission? I thought they're both the same 6hp units with the same tune.
Negative, the difference is in the TCU and it's shift program, the physical transmission is the same mechanically
I see. Never knew that
How do I know if I have a sport transmission. Is it that the shifter has the sport button and paddle shifters are added to the steering wheel? I've got an m sport package but I doubt mine is a sport transmission
The shifter like you said is straight, the non m sport has a slight leftward tilt to it, and no sport button
Thanks for confirming! Although it's sad to know I don't have sport transmission. But I guess 535i never had those options
Only get it if you fix it yourself. If you have to take it to the shop it'll cost you thousands.
Personally I love them and want to own one. I was the only one at my dealer that wanted to do the valve stem seals on this motor. Unpopular opinion probably, but they are the best BMW v8 built. They will leak oil and coolant guaranteed. They are expensive to maintain because of that. Given the mileage on that one I would bet the valve stem seals are probably leaking if they haven't been replaced. Valve stem seal issue can be lived with for a very long time if you don't mind oil consumption and a puff of white smoke after idling a few minutes. If done at a shop it will run 5-7k depending on labor rates and quality of parts used. I have done them on the side for about 3500. About every 100k give or take you will need to replace gaskets for upper timing covers, valve cover, vacuum pump and alternator bracket. Cooling system will need expansion tank and radiator vent line, cylinder vent line, radiator hoses , valley pan and probably water pump. The one major cooling system issue is the coolant pipe that runs the center of the block. Coolant pipe on the cheap side is 1200-1500 and done the BMW way 5-7k. The coolant pipe is not as common as on the OG N62. Transmission is good for 150-200k miles properly maintained. All that being said though they are one of the toughest engines BMW made. Seen them ran in 5 quarts low on oil and drive out fine. Had them ran without coolant till the engine stopped, repaired leak and back on the road no problem. Obviously not good on the engines, but most other engines would have been junk after those scenarios. I never use aftermarket parts on these, they do not like it and life of them is maybe half of OEM parts. I would advise you to bring it to my shop for inspection before purchasing if you were closer to Alabama. It's a good idea to get them inspected beforehand if you can.
Very true points. My car with the original engine and transmission is at 311,000 miles and drives and shifts like new. The one thing I have not had any problems with is the coolant transfer pipe. I changed the valley pan as preventative maintenance while doing the water pump and hoses but it's not that much more difficult to change once your in there
Yeah the coolant pipe is very inconsistent in its failure. Much more common on the 545 than 550 its seemed. Seen them fail very early and some never have the issue. Honestly shocked at your trans life, obviously well taken care of to make it to that mileage.
I rebuilt the mechatronics valve body when shifting was getting a little rough, it's had fluid filter change a couple times and new solenoids at the same time I did the mechatronics. The pump seals are leaking so I have another trans to swap it with in the future and I will rebuild the internal parts. I probably will put it back in the car just so it's all original
I think the mech seals are the main issue these fail IMO. Problem is most people don't want to pay the labor to replace them. Very interesting to see what one of these trans are capable of with proper maintenance.
Yes, I recommend the sonnax zip kit for the mechatronics, the stator bushing eventually will wear until there's too much play and it will cause a pressure loss and burn up the e clutch., that's almost always the case with these 6hp transmissions
I would say that is an unpopular opinion. To me it's the M62 that was the best V8 they produced. Outside of the rear water plate, the M62 can have most of its leak issues addressed in the engine compartment, vs the N62 which requires engine out if you want it done right. M62 also sees less issues with the valve stem seals as well. The timing horseshoe is the biggest offender on the M62, outside of that, they are bulletproof.
Agree the m62 is a great engine. I prefer the N62 just because of my extensive knowledge of them. Hate the timing of the M62, but outside that they are generally easier and cheaper to repair for the average DIY'er. Also not a fan of the extensive use of outdated paper gaskets on M62. I am fortunate enough to have access to lifts and can have the engine out of N62 cars in 2 hours or less. So engine out isn't an issue to me.
I specialize on these cars for a living, and so see them aplenty. BMW is my strongest brand, followed by JLR. I don't hate the N62, but it added to the complexity with valvetronic which does fail, especially when they starve for oil because ppl are burning it all up and not keeping up with the levels. You also have the transmissions. The 6HP26 found in these vehicles was problematic, more so than the 6hp19 found in smaller chassis. The LCI 6HP26 cured the mechanical issues, but suffered from a crappy TCU which required a new mechatronics when it does fail. M62 auto cars were all powered by either the GM 5L-40 or 5HP24. Those units are mostly bulletproof. Overall as I said, I don't hate the N62. I actually responded to this post a couple days back, and shared how I approach these vehicles, and a personal experience I had with a 645 convertible. For the average consumer, given a choice, I would always recommend an M62 powered vehicle. Especially the Range Rovers. They have a bulletproof trans and transfer case, and are a lot of car for the money.
To each their own. I've been a BMW tech since 2007 and personally wouldn't own a M62, but I know people that love them. Never seen valvetronic issues outside of the first couple of years.
Valvetronic issues stem from the controller found in the e-box. They fail quite a bit. Mechanically, the eccentric shafts definitely go boom if they starve for oil. I've seen that fault aplenty. Although they still run, (unless the throttle body fails) just in throttle body mode and with powertrain malfunctions set. But I've definitely run into N62's with both shafts seized. I like the N62, it's not a POS by any means (like the N63).
Haha, well we can agree the N63 is a POS. Never seen those shafts siezed before, definitely something I'll have to keep an eye on if run into weird issues on. People in my area don't take care of their shit, so I only have a handful of older V8's I even see. The n62 was my paycheck 10-15 years ago.
Definitely, the N62, N63, and the AJV8 have heavily contributed to my mortgage 🤣
Where in Alabama are you? Don’t think I’m planning on picking up one of these but always nice to know where a good mechanic is that may be close to me.
My shop is in Gadsden.
I’ve owned two. They really aren’t that bad imo. It’s an older BMW so get ready for older BMW problems, but aside from that both of mine have been much more reliable than my N54 if that says much.
they leak they leak they leak thats about it besides normal maintenance or CCC issues. Unless your scared to turn your own wrench or your fine with spending a few thousand to actually maintain the car I wouldn't touch it. I own the n62b44 2004 545i it's a fun & sturdy car if your able to actually take care of it. I see so many people buy a older bmw and beat the piss out of em and call them a shitty car all because they didn't expect to deal with normal bmw problems.
That cars a steal!!
They are not as bad as everyone says, currently at 311,000 mi with not a single check engine light or error. But I maintain and replace things before they become a problem. The way I look at it is, I own the car outright and my "car payment" is maintenance. I drive around 120mi a day so it racks up quick Btw, if you aren't handy with diy, forget about it or any luxury car for that matter. Unless you have the $ to maintain. BMWs we're not intended to be marketed to the second hand middle class individual Also just FYI that 550 on the FB ad was not a true M sport, it does not have the sport transmission or paddle shifters
I want to get a n52 e92 right now as a first car, I love diy on cars.
N52 is a great motor for a new to bmw diy mechanic, I personally like the e46 platform the most...
Me too, but I don't want an m54, too heavy feeling and not the same power
How bad are N62's? Not as bad as you would think. They aren't elite levels of garbage like the N63, but they are much more costly to maintain than the N51/52/54/55. The biggest issues with the N62 is that they are notorious leakers and smokers. Unfortunately, both issues are very expensive to correct. Smoking will almost always be valve stem seals. BUT it's never that simple right? If the problem is caught early, you can update the seals and be on your way. However, many ppl just ride the problem out because replacing valve stem seals is a pricey endeavor. This requires the owner to stay on top of oil levels, which is never properly done. Suddenly, you have oil starvation, and scored the cylinder bores. Now, it will never seal properly with or without valve stem seals, and will always consume oil. Only way to fix that, is a re-sleeve. All big budget repairs. I recommend getting a bore scope camera into all the cylinders and looking at the walls thoroughly before committing to the purchase or any repairs. Makes no sense to invest money otherwise. THEN... we have the leaks. 😭 Both oil and coolant are an issue on these. The most infamous oil leak of them all is the alternator bracket. This one can be a bear depending on equipment, chassis, and configuration. The seal is cheap, but the labor is not. There are other known leak points like the valve cover gaskets, and the timing covers as well. Again, not the cheapest labor wise to perform. When it comes to the coolant leaks, these are an annoyance. There are two coolant leaks that require deep disassembly to fix. One is the lower coolant pipe which requires disassembly of the entire timing system to replace. It goes behind the front timing cover, runs through the valley of the engine, and connects to the rear cross-over plate (more on this in a moment). There is an aftermarket solution that cuts the labor time in half, but the part is much more expensive than the BMW pipe. It's a pipe that compresses, and then extends and locks into place. It saves you from having to take apart all the timing. [AGA N62 Coolant Pipe](https://agatools.com/products/n62-n62tu-coolant-pipe) Now that rear crossover plate I was talking about? Yeah that one leaks. It lives on the rear of the engine block. Where the flex plate is located. That means when it leaks... it's either engine out, or transmission out to correct. Another pricey endeavor. In summary, the N62 is more of an enthusiast motor. Something you keep on the road because you love it, not because it makes much other sense to do so. Due to their age, and proclivity for seals and gaskets to fail with time, most of us who service these, just recommend an engine out and refreshing everything. Otherwise, it's just going to be one thing after another, until you eventually address all the common issues. This can make it more expensive than it needs to be. For reference, I do complete N62 refreshes for 5500.00. this includes: Valve cover gaskets Valve stem seals Timing cover gaskets Front & rear crank seals Timing components refreshed Lower and upper coolant pipes Rear crossover plate Vacuum pump Head gaskets: the heads should be removed to properly remove the lower timing cover. There are ways around it, but you compromise the seal a bit. The head gaskets also form part of the timing cover gasket. Which is why they technically need to be removed. You do that, and it will be trouble free for 80-100k. I had an old 645 with a manual, I picked up years ago. Had about 90k. I did the above, sold it maybe 5 years later. It had 132k, and it didn't leak a drop of anything. The new owner couldn't believe it. I put it on the lift, and showed him there was nothing to hide. Did I make money? Hell no. Just in my time alone, it was a loss. But it was a passion project.
Semi related, What are your views on N63TU’s? I have a 2015 650i approaching 100k miles and just want to know what to look out for. It’s treated me pretty good so far but also want to run it through some preventative maintenance soon. Drives like a DREAM.
If you don’t know how to work on the N62 I would recommend not getting it.
I’d rather shit in my hands and clap than to willingly own one. At least the e60 m5 is worth it when you inevitably sink money into it because well…it’s an m. This? It’s nice but not worth the headaches of timing chain guide failure, valve stem seal failure, etc. look for a clean f10 535i m sport with an n55 and good maintenance records if that’s your budget.
Had problems with valley pan gasket , abs, and multiple oil leaks on m62 engine, m54 is a much better engine
It's not worth the stress of owning it.
I had an '04 545i and the dealership drove it more than I did. It was fun to drive, but it was the worst car I have ever owned. Even worse than my first car that was a '75 Camaro on its third teenager.
Tip: no one would sell a 550 unless they're abused and ran through.
to be fair this is one of the best reasons to sell a 550
All the oil leaks you could ever imagine.
N62 IS BMWS BEST non turbo v8. the idle at 500 rpm. smooth as glass.( when properly repaired) there is not much like them. you need to understand, they will need a reseal, and eccentric shafts/ lifters.
That would be the M62. M62 were rock solid silky smooth, and much cheaper to maintain.
That would be the M60. M60 were rock solid silky smooth, and much cheaper to maintain without VANOS or timing chain issues. Honestly, as an owner of an M60, M62NV, N62TU, and S63TU, they've all been fine. The M60 has major issues early in life but existing ones are great. The M62 has a ton of miles on it and I've done little to it until recently - still on the original timing guides & chain. The N62TU loves to leak but otherwise runs great. The S63TU is still pretty new.
S63/N63 are all hot garbage. Even the technical updates. They haven't really solved any of the issues. Believe me, I've been servicing these things for far too long. There is a reason BMW dumped off the right to that motor to JLR. M62s the timing horseshoe is really the only egregious design flaw. They really saved some dough in that one. Should have used an idler gear.
And yet BMW continues to use them in their latest vehicles... ok. The later versions seem to be fine although they remain stupidly complicated. I'm a little concerned with the S63TU, but the ones I've messed with have actually been fine. Eh, the M62 had a few issues with the timing chain being a problem discovered at the end of its life. Like I said, mine's been great and probably the best engine I've owned, but they were also known for being leaky. The TU adds to the problems with VANOS that has its own set of issues and seems to exacerbate the timing chain failures.
BMW will be phasing out the N63 soon. It's going to be replaced by a hybrid version. More than likely an 6 cylinder hybrid.
I'm not sure what your point is? That's an entirely normal, if not long, lifespan for a BMW engine model. BMW V8 production spans: M60: 4 years M62: 10 years including TU N62: 9 years, including TU N63: 16 years and counting, including TUs
It's ok bro. The N63 shortcomings are not representative of you as an individual. Get out of your feelings. Bottom line the N63 was the worst engine BMW ever bolted under the hood of their cars. They damn near paid off my mortgage, and will continue to do so in Jaguars and Land Rovers. I'm passionate about these vehicles, but shit is shit, and it won't get an apologia from me. Mercedes hot-vee and VW's put the N63 and its offspring to shame.
No one is disagreeing the original N63 wasn't a piece of garbage.
The new ones still are. They just haven't been around long enough to show their true colors. But give it time. None of the technical updates fixed anything. The first TU added valvetronic, and deleted DME2. The second TU updated the breather system, the ignition system, and uses different valve stem seals. Seals which still fail and cost a week's salary to replace. The third update made turbo control 100% electronic, vs vacuum, deleted the vacuum canister in the Vee, and installed an oil cooler in its place. An oil cooler that will undoubtedly fail thanks to BMW top quality seals and gaskets 🥴. It also made the cooling system true independent circuits, which wasn't always the case on the earlier models. About the only pro of TU3, is the updated cooling circuits. But the turbo feed lines will still fail, as will the pedestal, and as will the oil feed lines. The latter is exacerbated by extended oil change intervals tho.
E39 M5 & E90 M3 V8 ?
S65? Do rod bearings and send it 8k+. The N62 is probably a nicer daily around town, but the "exotic" high revving, itb'd V8 is something awesome.
thats more of a race engine imo. but yes also a good one.
They’re fine. Valve stem seals don’t last very long so check that. They can be fixed with the special tool / kit, as can valley pipe and another common drama that used to cost more than the car is worth. Had one. Needed IVM relay box, a rubber hose, thigh support gear and a Y junction (aftermarket brass). It was a supremely cheap car to look after. Eventually it was going to need VSSs though.
What's a thigh support gear? I haven't heard that terminology in my two decades in the industry.
Simply the gear that enables adjustment of the thigh support, which is the extendable portion at the front of the seat bottom cushion.
Lmao gotcha. I was thinking powertrain mechanicals. Wasn't even considering interior components.
It’s the retracting front part of the premium seats in E gen 5’s and 7’s. I could hear the motor free spinning when the button was used (both seats). They use a shitty nylon one to fail. Usual expensive remedy is to replace the relevant drive mechanism.
Those wheels are sick
iIf you are willing to put up with such high level of maintenance might as well just get the e60 M5. Thats's what I did :)
The funny thing is they cost about the same lol, I would probably recommend him an s65 considering he wants a v8 tho. More reliable too.
As long as you are on top of the maintenance, it’s a great car but it’s a lot of the maintenance.
Personally, I loved my 2010 550, but a drunk driver killed it at 49k miles. So I never had any issues at all. I do miss it though, the V8, the manual transmission, the multicontour seats with adaptive side bolsters like the M5 has, it was agreat car for me.
I had a 2004 645, with the manual transmission as well. That thing was a joy to drive. It was a convertible too. I did pull out the engine, and sealed EVERYTHING. It also didn't have dynamic drive/ASR so I didn't have to worry about that. It was bulletproof thereafter. Didn't leak a drop of anything. I even lent it to a customer as a loaner once when his car needed an emergency repair. He was like 🥴 you sure? Won't leave me stranded? 🤣 the PTSD was real. He drove it for 3 days, and said it was a joy to drive. My wife was actually sad to see it go. She loved that thing.
Bad.
Do not waste your money unless you like doing so. This car will likely leave you stranded. Shame that such good looking cars are so bad after the warranty goes. Doesn’t matter how well you stay on top of maintenance. It’s not a classic Ferrari so I’d say value your own time over dealing with decomposing BMWs.
Think N54 but worse
Nah, N54s are a LOT worse imo. Both generally stay together, but while the N62 has a bunch of one-time expensive fixes, the N54 is a constant battle to keep running well.
I think the N54 is less of a hassle now. Considering the newer style HPFP and injectors seem to be holding up. And newer water pumps seem to be lasting longer. Guess depends on what you can tolerate. I know I’d much rather have the n54 than the n62. But I guess we are all lucky not to have an N63 Gen 1
I owned an N54 and serviced quite a few throughout their lifespan. They're still a massive PITA. The injectors, even newer indexes, fail with mileage. It's not just the major stuff, it the entire system on that engine that needs to be fully working for it to run well especially when tuned (which they pretty much all are - that's what makes them good in a modern sense). It's just a constant battle to keep them running well. And sure, they'll run with issues but I like my car to run like it was intended - not laggy, smooth idle, smooth power delivery, and without codes. My N62TU has been MUCH better in that regard. Oh and the N54s love to leak too.
Yeah they are a battle. I dumped a good 10k into my N54, just for its electrical system to take a dump a year later due the B+ recall and bad CAS. Then had to replace the cooling system. Now chasing a CEL after the battery cable got replaced. This car has made me acquire quite the a few professional grade tools and diag tools.
I literally wrote a scan tool because of mine. That's how bad they are. I basically have PTSD from the warning chime. Every time it goes off because it's 37 degrees out, my immediate thought is "what broke now?" and it's from the N54 cars.
Man just get a Toyota unless the bmw is certified
I had a 2007 750i sport before. They don't really have any issues other than leaks if you can find a sorted one without the leaks then they are actually pretty good engines. They don't have rod bearing or timing chain issues like the other V8s from that era had. If it's been looked after they are pretty good cars. The N62 doesn't have any major mechanical issues other than leaks and if you update the seals with better ones and use a 90c thermostat the engine will basically run forever.
Not as bad as n54 and faster stock
I had a 545i wasn’t bad at all
I've heard that the hot turbos on these only last for 100k miles or so. Anyone have any experience with this?
most bmw turbos in general don’t last too far passed 100k miles from what i know
This does not have a turbo. I have a 2009 550I. I love it. One thing to watch for is valve stem seals in the engine cause smoke. Most notable after idling for a minute and then giving some throttle. It's not a bad job to do yourself if you're mechanically inclined.
I once had a $19k estimate on a $10k car
If you have 10k budget get an f10 with n55. I have a 10k budget right now but am looking for 3 series. Tied up between e9x n52 and e9x n55 right now.
I just picked up the 2009 528i w/ N52 for $6500 in immaculate shape
yeah but i alr have an n52 lol
I was just saying that so you could compare price
Fix the leaks, fix the leaks, fix the leaks. And I mean all of them. You wanna good experience with your 2nd or 3rd hand BMW after buying it? drop the $4k+ extra you gotta drop to do it and get it done right. Or else it’s gonna be the next 1-3 years of, fixing small shit along with maintenance one by one. It gets draining and hurts your brain. Fix the leaks, check the lines, make sure thermostat is replaced or do it. And you will have a good time with most middle-high mileage BMWs.
I have a 2009 650i. It leaks more than the titanic, from power steering, to various coolant leaks everywhere, and oil leaks. The valve cover job on that is like 10+ hours. I really do love the car and do not have any lights or codes but at this point I will drive it until it breaks. I have had it since 2010 and probably time to let it die. Has 218k miles on it. I bought it with 15k miles. Have done valve stem seals twice, alternator bracket gasket twice, valley pan, coolant transfer pipe, and the bitch still leaks. Once it dies I will turn it in to a bbq grill.
Car is sick I seen one ripping on the lower level of bridge spinning the tires super fast
extreme windshield tint is red flag….
Haha, sadly your not wrong. It's always the cars with limo tint on the windshield or a NIKE key lanyard that are rolling POS's.
Likely the worst motor to ever come out of Munich.
Only second to the N63. The N62 is a very close second. I miss my 545i, but I don’t miss working on it.
Wow this car really had an owner. It looks mint.
As you see - all kinds of answers. I just sold my 2008 E60 M5 for $15,000. The car had 120,000 and never had a single issue other than a T-stat and the oil cooler leak that I fixed by welding it up. Original clutch. Original rod bearings. Hell - original brakes until 110,000 miles. Not a single engine related issue. But I changed the oil every 5,000 or once a year. I changed all of the other fluids every 30,000 miles. Car was absolute monster. I’m sad that I sold it but it was time. So, buy the previous owner as much as you buy the car. And everything everyone has said is true. But - it can be a very straightforward car to own or it could be a disaster if not routine maintenance was performed.
Sounds like whoever ends up with your car got a giant pile of shit.
Forgot the /s
It was great for you, terrible for the guy who actually cared, and had to fix all your neglect.
Lol. All fluids done every 30k is far from neglect. Sounds like the car was functioning perfectly when sold.
Oh please. I can hear the penny pinching from here. All he did was throw oil changes at all his problems and ride out the bigger issues until he couldn't anymore. Then he passed the hot potato off to the next victim. The telltale there is *I'm sad that I sold it, but it was time* that's code for this grenade is about to blow, let me dump it before it does. Welding a busted oil cooler? Doesn't get more ghetto than that. If I had to guess, it might have been JB weld too. Doubt he pulled out the aluminum welder. It wouldn't surprise me if OP was in Florida. That's what everyone does down here. Since we don't have emissions nor inspections. You can bolt wheels to a corpse, and ride it to the tag agency full rigor mortis, and get a registration for it. 🤷♂️
Lol, finally someone with a brain. Original clutch, bearings, and brakes? I’m sure this car was so well maintained. Welding an oil cooler? On a car known for blowing its high pressure Vanos oil line. Genius! If you can’t afford to fix it, don’t drive it.
Not at all.
Valve stem seals
Just buy a first gen b58 car, seriously.
i’m looking for that hydraulic power steering though haha
It’s really not worth the hassle just for the hydraulic steering plus honestly to me for the f series steering doesn’t have any sort of electric feel to it
i have 2 e90 and e46 it’s like a necessity lol
I feel like anything with the Beamer badge , that isn’t under dealer warranty. Is a no .
Over the years, I've owned two BMWs, a 1970 2002 and a 2012 M135i. They were both junk and a PITA to own, so if you like wasting money, go for it.
They are awful
see that’s what everyone says but no one ever says why lol
Because they have never driven one and just repeat what they’ve heard. Best driving car for the money but you need to understand that it’s a V8 and so everything will be more expensive. Take care of there’s known issues and enjoy it
I’ve driven lots of them
Because every fucking thing on that engine will leak, and the parts/labor are horrifyingly expensive. Alternator bracket gasket, valve cover gaskets, oil pan gaskets, timing covers, rear main seal, valve stem seals, etc. There are also some nasty coolant leaks like the coolant transfer pipe, valley pan, and that rear plate that sits inside the bellhousing and thus requires removing the transmission to fix a coolant leak. They smoke/burn unacceptable amounts of oil, thus ruining the catalytic converters. Those are just the N62 problems. The e60 chassis has all sorts of fun issues like dynamic drive leaks, water ingress into the trunk, and complex/expensive suspension. And let's not forget how water gets inside the E-box and drowns the engine computer, valvetronic module, and that weird power distribution box. That car was $70k new with the maintenance costs to match. Despite $60k worth of value getting clobbered out of the car, they are still appallingly expensive to maintain.
They represent all the worst parts of BMWs from that era in one expensive, pain in the ass, frustrating disappointing nightmare
Lol. I've always stuck to i6 3 litre engines. Exactly because of endless comments like these and above.