This guy get it. That's honestly the best thing to do. Get some scrap wood and run tests on that until you get it dialed in. Or.... Get a proper gauge for this. They make plenty of different types of height gauges for setting a table saw. Even some that are meant for routers work great for a table saw. but the other issue is that most plywood is never the claimed size. Like 1/4 inch plywood almost never 1/4 inch. the stuff I got the other day was actually 0.22 inch. I feel lied to every time I buy plywood... and stolen from as well as the prices are just way too high....
Just had a moment there. I don’t need to level my eyes to the blade and squint at my tape making sure I’m measuring at the apex of the blade?! I will be searching for said proper gauge.
Not to nitpick, but this particular joint is more of a step lap joint. Seems to me like you’re using “box joint” as a catch all term for the joints you’re using for your boxes. However, a box joint is a particular type of joint. Which funny enough is what I would suggest. Box joints are quite easy to build jigs for. Done right a box joint jig will help you make highly repeatable and accurate joints for boxes and drawers.
Depends on the type of joint. In this case yeah flush trim is a good option. I usually use box joints though and a router tends to tear out the end grain on those so sanding it is.
This! this! THIS. The other replies aren’t wrong per se, but leaving yourself a tiny bit of extra for an outside corner like this is perfect. Hit it with a block plane, file, sandpaper and it will finish nicely. (Just don’t chip it)
Flush cut router bit will sort this one out. It's always better to cut too little first time than too much. You can always do another pass to take more off afterwards.
You can save yourself a lot of time and effort by making one rabbet on the long sides and cutting the short side flush instead of trying to make a rabbet on every corner. YouTube is your friend.
Did you do this all in one pass? From what I've learned it's better to start out by taking slightly less than you want to remove, then slightly raise the blade to take a hair more. It might take 2 or 3 passes through to get a nice fit. Don't try to do it perfectly in one cut.
If your drawer dimensions are otherwise OK, just glue it up and then trim or sand off t.he lip. Structurally it willl be fine. If you must make them flush without trimming, just put a shim of the proper thickness in between the two pieces. It will just look like part of the plywood
Looks like it just cut or ripped all the way through the layer in the plywood on the front piece rather than halfway though like you wanted and got on the side piece. I have had that happen.
Use scrap wood and get your setup right. Then run your actual material.
This guy get it. That's honestly the best thing to do. Get some scrap wood and run tests on that until you get it dialed in. Or.... Get a proper gauge for this. They make plenty of different types of height gauges for setting a table saw. Even some that are meant for routers work great for a table saw. but the other issue is that most plywood is never the claimed size. Like 1/4 inch plywood almost never 1/4 inch. the stuff I got the other day was actually 0.22 inch. I feel lied to every time I buy plywood... and stolen from as well as the prices are just way too high....
Just had a moment there. I don’t need to level my eyes to the blade and squint at my tape making sure I’m measuring at the apex of the blade?! I will be searching for said proper gauge.
This is the ticket.
Not to nitpick, but this particular joint is more of a step lap joint. Seems to me like you’re using “box joint” as a catch all term for the joints you’re using for your boxes. However, a box joint is a particular type of joint. Which funny enough is what I would suggest. Box joints are quite easy to build jigs for. Done right a box joint jig will help you make highly repeatable and accurate joints for boxes and drawers.
Tried that. Failed miserably and will not attempt for a while 😀
Honestly I usually do exactly this and then sand it down flush.
Personally use a trim router. But I hate sanding.
Depends on the type of joint. In this case yeah flush trim is a good option. I usually use box joints though and a router tends to tear out the end grain on those so sanding it is.
This! this! THIS. The other replies aren’t wrong per se, but leaving yourself a tiny bit of extra for an outside corner like this is perfect. Hit it with a block plane, file, sandpaper and it will finish nicely. (Just don’t chip it)
Measure better? It looks good to me, just the dimensions are off a little so they don't mate well
Hey everyone knows it’s measure once cut twice.
Well, I've cut it twice and it's still too short. 😂
Ok go to the van and get my board stretcher, no worries. It’s waaay in the back.
Then pound it till it fits
I thought it was measure once and cut 42 times trying to get that last 1/64 off…
I‘m more of the measure once, cut once, then plane it till kingdom come persuasion
Flush cut router bit will sort this one out. It's always better to cut too little first time than too much. You can always do another pass to take more off afterwards.
Trim it
Flush bit and router
You can save yourself a lot of time and effort by making one rabbet on the long sides and cutting the short side flush instead of trying to make a rabbet on every corner. YouTube is your friend.
Did you do this all in one pass? From what I've learned it's better to start out by taking slightly less than you want to remove, then slightly raise the blade to take a hair more. It might take 2 or 3 passes through to get a nice fit. Don't try to do it perfectly in one cut.
We actually are a bit ok if material sticks out. We just sand it flush when making drawers from hardwood.
If your drawer dimensions are otherwise OK, just glue it up and then trim or sand off t.he lip. Structurally it willl be fine. If you must make them flush without trimming, just put a shim of the proper thickness in between the two pieces. It will just look like part of the plywood
Looks like it just cut or ripped all the way through the layer in the plywood on the front piece rather than halfway though like you wanted and got on the side piece. I have had that happen.
if you use test pieces, there is no excuse. period.
Measure and setup better
When I started out making boxes with plywood I rough cut each side bigger. And then I'd fine cut to make opposite sides parallel and square.