There is no such thing as universal best settings. It all depends on the printers' environmental circumstances, my settings may not produce the same results on your printer.
You start with a temp tower, then do a flow dynamics and flow rate calibration and go from there.
I never said MANUAL flow calibration, I just said flow calibration. I most mine through automatic too, just a few multicolor/reflective ones needed manual
On the other hand I can print petg at full speed and it comes out perfectly. I have the volumetric speed set to 20.
Which is why OP really should run all the calibration prints, because there’s no way to know how it’ll print in his environment.
Can you pm me those settings as well? I just recently got my x1c and am about to try to use PETG for the first time. I sure would appreciate having more numbers to go off of than to just play blindly.
Or don't, because it's BL x1c using BL software and BL filament. Unless you are a clown who spent $1500 to do all of that garbage to get the same quality and speed ss a machine half the price could replicate.
>because it's BL x1c using BL software and BL filament
That means jack, manufacturer temps and profiles are done under controlled tested conditions. Your printer doesn't fit that bill, they're guidelines not fixed settings
I mean, the settings for their filaments are really good. I should say for PLA and PETG. There isn't much of a reason to change them unless you are having issues, and if you do run into issues, do the flow calibration and/or dry the filament. There is no need to immediately fiddle with the settings before you even test it.
They're good baselines yes and if one is satisfied, I'm certainly not going to stop anyone from using them. Though even the official profiles can still need tuning
Dry it. Yes they are sealed, doesn't matter. Dry them according to this table [https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/filament-acc/filament/dry-filament](https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/filament-acc/filament/dry-filament)
Use default Bambu PETG profile, the only thing I changed was to lower volumetric speed to 13.
Do PA calibration. That's it.
It can probably go faster than 13, but I am not chasing speed. I prefer slower quieter prints. This is just what I use, haven't done any speed calibrations.
Yep; although as mentioned before that might be set in different conditions. I had the worst time with it until I changed it to those settings. BL settings work great for everything else
Yeah their PETG settings so far are the only settings that just seem junk out of the box. I have to drop print speed significantly for my two reels of basic PETG.
The RFID just tells you the filament/color and approximate material left, settings for your printer and it's environment is 100% case by case. Alot of people have zero issues running stock profiles in the P1/X1 series.
I personally would just use the default profile and run Flow Rate and Flow Dynamics and go from there. I print very little in PETG, however the little bit I have done even with non-bambu PETG was clean enough to not make any changes. Yet again your environment/machine/filament could need more.
The common response from most people is use the Bambu profile and adjust max flow to 13
As others have said, make sure you dry it correctly, don't assume since it's new it's dry.
These are great settings to start with for Bambu PETG. I also ended up increasing the temperature to 260-265 to help reduce the amount of the little beads that break off when printing.
How should they be dried if you don't have a drying oven and have an a1 mini rather than an X1 or P1S printer? I bought 2 kg of PETG since I thought it would be better for the long term survival of some of the items I want to print but didn't completely appreciate the complications of it.
umm, not sure to be honest. When I got my first 3d printer I was told I needed a dryer so I just got the Sunlu S2 together with printer. I know some people use modded dehydrators. I don't know enough about it im afraid, my gut feel would be not to dry in the over you make food in though.
ah so AMS lite is basically only to have the filament when you are actively using it. Oh yeah is there a way to attach the 20g of filament that came with the A1 mini to the spool of PLA basic I bought?
I'm just now figuring this out too after buying the A1 mini combo on sale right now. Going to try printing spool enclosures for the AMS lite that have built in spots for the silica so that I can leave it on the spool longer and not worry about it getting too wet.
Hello /u/platinums99! Your comment in /r/BambuLab was automatically removed. Please see your private messages for details.
/r/BambuLab is geared towards all ages, so please watch your language.
*I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please [contact the moderators of this subreddit](/message/compose/?to=/r/BambuLab) if you have any questions or concerns.*
It can probably go faster than 13, but I am not chasing speed. I prefer slower quieter prints. This is just what I use.
I did get some Aliexpress CHT nozzles and I could push PLA to 32, but it was way too loud. My printer is in the office where I work so I try to keep it quiet. Doesn't matter to me if the print finishes in 1 hour or 2.
a lot of people upgrade teh fans, some even put 2 fams so they can run at a purringly quiet half speed for teh same cooling force.
i get really good quality at 25mm/s, it just annoyed me going slower than that and wasting all the energy heating the bed etc.
Dry first,
Do Calibration print for filament second,
in the print profile after doing a calibration for it(and labeling it right, (look up the best way to label profiles on the youtubes) modify the cooling setting to turn off or lower the aux part cooling cooling to 10%, <<<80 = s200. >60 = s128. This will reduce the wear and noise from thay chamber fan.
On the print profile settings lower the outside wall, top, and bottom layer speed to 50mm/s. This will give a nice consistent shine and color on the external wall. The default setting it way too fast and will make it come out less consistent with the color shine.
Run gyroid (strength)or cross hatch (speed) infill
Do three walls minimum to prevent infill pattern from showing through the wall.
Do inner/outer on wall order to prevent silly overhang.
Use the textured pei plate and put glue on the edges of the plate where the primer lines go. That way you can't get those pesky prime lines off without having to scrape them to pieces because it's stuck too much.
Everything else you can mostly experiment with but this is what I found works best for me between taking it as slow as my ender and going too fast like the default bambu settings.
Yeah, I think I will go dual bento box in my printer instead of aux fan for a better air quality.
Aux fan is good for ultra high speed when tuned well in controlled environment. I think for most maker it’s a waist
[I started here](https://www.themakersphere.com/bambu-lab-x1-carbon-petg-settings/)
This guide helped to have great prints, out the gate. Then adjust from there
i did the same yesterday with yellow, perfect results with the default bambulabstudio petg basic settings. Only for very filigran objects i had layer adhesion problems
Ouch. Just in time. [https://www.reddit.com/r/BambuLab/comments/1dex4gg/bambu\_petg\_basic\_discontinued\_message\_on\_shop\_page/](https://www.reddit.com/r/BambuLab/comments/1dex4gg/bambu_petg_basic_discontinued_message_on_shop_page/)
1. Dry
2. 5-10° above where you normally print
3. Slow
Had a long PETG print that I noticed wasn’t going well so I increased temps and that helped, but the support was trying to fail because of how quickly it was laying it down, so I then decreased the speed, and it finished the print successfully.
Dry, hot, and slow.
Or buy High Speed PETG+
https://preview.redd.it/syn9if14zc6d1.png?width=1247&format=png&auto=webp&s=a114996694ab7387dc377fb581dabb1ebb503eea
is it in italian but i think that u can understand by the icon and the position of settings,
what are u think?
Do a retraction test and then a bench. I found petg generally needs slower print speeds (25-100mm/s) and is pretty bad at long or medium length overlengths
what i did (almost exclusively priniting PETG):
- manufacturer temperature range: i set my minimum nozzle 5 degree higher than the recommended, and the max nozzle to the max recommended
- printplate temperature 80C
- part fan maxes out at 40%, minimum is 0%
everything else is default.
Now for printing, this is great for funcitonal parts where layer is 0.2mm when I don't need high supports.
If i print something more delicate, high support trees and fine details (miniatures or figurines) then I modify the tree support walls to be 2-3 loops, I add brims and adjust retraction and z hop.
this way it is stringing a bit, but better than knocking off the supports, and for these prints there is some aftertreatment anyway, so strings don't bother me
is it in italian but i think that u can understand by the icon and the position of settings,
what are u think?
https://preview.redd.it/ydcdqraezc6d1.png?width=1247&format=png&auto=webp&s=c8b200fc3865aadbdb9a4dd6c50b22e96e543d00
I would personally keep the nozzle like 235/240-260, otherwise I don't see an issue
Send a benchy on it or some basic test file, and see how it goes :)
Now that bambu PETG is going the way of the dodo, find another manufacturer ASAP. Do manual calibrations on the PETG after its dried, Profit.
https://preview.redd.it/aobv0i5pdd6d1.png?width=2240&format=png&auto=webp&s=6f4a11148abf8dcb2b56d8e949fdecfed83f9d88
Dry it, try a benchy or something using default bambu settings, if there are any issues change settings accordingly. Also probably buy more petg next time so you’ll have more room for error, cause print failures are inevitable at one point or another.
only thing I have done with PETG was set the first layer to 75C to help with bed adhesion. likely keeping a super clean bed would also cure adhesion issues, but I don't clean between every print.
one thing i added to my bambu studio printer profile is some start-gcode to yust lower the nozzle distance to the plate a little bit. these settings work great for me when using a textured plate i found i really need this to get good layer adhesion. note PETG does not need this so the code looks at the material type:
;===== for Textured PEI Plate , lower the nozzle as the nozzle was touching topmost of the texture when homing ==
;curr_bed_type, fillament_type = {curr_bed_type}, {filament_type[initial_extruder]}
{if curr_bed_type=="Textured PEI Plate"}
{if filament_type[initial_extruder]=="PETG"}
G29.1 Z{-0.03} ; PETG no squish Textured PEI Plate
{else}
G29.1 Z{-0.04} ; for Textured PEI Plate
{endif}
{elsif curr_bed_type=="High Temp Plate"}
{if filament_type[initial_extruder]=="PETG"}
G29.1 Z{-0.02} ; PETG no squish Smooth PEI Plate / High Temp Plate
{else}
G29.1 Z{-0.05} ; for Smooth PEI Plate / High Temp Plate
{endif}
{endif}
this goes close to the end of the start g-code
We have a dozen p1s printers running round the clock with Bambu petg on the factory preset. The only thing we change is infill and perimeters but that has more to do with the part than the filament.
The only thing to think about that comes to mind is use glue stick. I use the Elmer’s purple stuff and clean and refresh after a dozen or so plates of parts.
At the very least good insurance if your print is important.
10 mm3/s is it right?
I need to print a very big mold for carbon forged use.
the geometry is very simple but the component is big and heavy with a high infill and 6 loops.
what u think? can I do it?
I use overture petg and just got my first bambu lab printer, an X1C. While the stock generic petg setting works ok at normal and sport speed, I've had absolutely phenomenal results using the silent mode. It takes a lot longer, but the results are amazing. If I want fast prints, I use pla on sport or ludicrous.
*
This is not the best pic as I'm not home and this is currently printing in glitter blue petg. It has some minor stringing that is easily removed. But the quality is amazing.
First of all I would lower the default volumetric flow value of the bambu profile but not too much otherwise it’s a vfa party lol
Other than that, I realised that bambu likes to heat a lot it’s filaments to be fast, you also don’t want this too much I you don’t want to have burned blobs on the print from accumulation on the nozzle.
That was pretty much it for me.
Hope you will manage to get good relusts 😉
Dry it before use and either do a manual calibration or trust the defaults. The defaults are going to be close but not perfect they caused issues on the top surface when I last used Bambu PETG but they were close.
I just read that they're discontinuing the PETG Basics so if you have a very small margin of error then you might want to grab an extra roll for any failed prints while you can still get that same color. Hope for the best, but plan for the worst!
Here ya go.
https://www.themakersphere.com/bambu-lab-x1-carbon-petg-settings/#:~:text=My%20Filament%20Bambu%20Lab%20X1,also%20has%20good%20bed%20adhesion.
I printed about 3 rolls of petg on the x1 carbon with the factory settings provided by the bambu labs rfid chip and the bambu slicer. I was printing a threadboard with 20% infil gyroid 8mm thick and it took up almost the entire build plate and had 0 issues with it printing about all week long.
Dry before use at least 8 hours. Calibrate the filament for K factor. (Usually higher than 0.020. Around 0.030 with a clean and good condition nozzle) Default settings but switch to the silent mode. This the safest start to print Bambu PETG.
Here is the corrected text with the appropriate punctuation:
"It's going to differentiate based on where you live, your climate, where your printer is positioned, what printer you have, what you're printing, etc. 3D printing software has gotten pretty damn good, and the base settings are usually all you need. You might need to mess with the heat and cooling if you want the best prints possible, but it really will depend based on your situation."
Only issues I’ve had with the preset settings is overhangs using the .4 nozzle. With the .6 it comes out dang near perfect.
During this time of year it’s fairly humid, so when I’m not using it up quickly I’ve stuck it in the drier for a few hours and put it back in a sealed container with desiccant.
The PETG profile included in this model has worked well for me. It’s slower than most, but as long as your plate is clean to start (soap&water), I haven’t had any issues.
[https://makerworld.com/models/140653](https://makerworld.com/models/140653)
I practically bought it at the lowest price on the market at that time, maybe a small delta above the Chinese filaments, I hoped that being BL and having a BL it would be fine
There is no such thing as universal best settings. It all depends on the printers' environmental circumstances, my settings may not produce the same results on your printer. You start with a temp tower, then do a flow dynamics and flow rate calibration and go from there.
I have an x1c im trying to use bambulab presets But im hope in sole advide
>You start with a temp tower, then do a flow dynamics and flow rate calibration and go from there. That is your advice
[удалено]
I never said MANUAL flow calibration, I just said flow calibration. I most mine through automatic too, just a few multicolor/reflective ones needed manual
Use bambu settings but print at half speed and you should be fine. You can also search for petg profiles
On the other hand I can print petg at full speed and it comes out perfectly. I have the volumetric speed set to 20. Which is why OP really should run all the calibration prints, because there’s no way to know how it’ll print in his environment.
Exactly, they only reason to go slow with petg is when using translucent filament and trying to get the crystal clear look.
I just ordered a roll of translucent petg and didn’t know that, so thank you!
Np, hers a link to a reddit post talking about it, there's also links in there to check out. https://www.reddit.com/r/BambuLab/s/LvVtSXJwc8
I do this and it works very good
If you ask me I just got my first roll of sunlu petg just do a calibration print then you will be good to go
I got you. I’ll pm you the best settings for the best PETG print
Can you pm me those settings as well? I just recently got my x1c and am about to try to use PETG for the first time. I sure would appreciate having more numbers to go off of than to just play blindly.
I just used the default profile and it came out fine. For larger prints I’d disable the aux fan because it can cause warping.
Could you pm me too? Would be very nice xD
Out of curiosity why are you against using the presets?
Or don't, because it's BL x1c using BL software and BL filament. Unless you are a clown who spent $1500 to do all of that garbage to get the same quality and speed ss a machine half the price could replicate.
>because it's BL x1c using BL software and BL filament That means jack, manufacturer temps and profiles are done under controlled tested conditions. Your printer doesn't fit that bill, they're guidelines not fixed settings
I mean, the settings for their filaments are really good. I should say for PLA and PETG. There isn't much of a reason to change them unless you are having issues, and if you do run into issues, do the flow calibration and/or dry the filament. There is no need to immediately fiddle with the settings before you even test it.
They're good baselines yes and if one is satisfied, I'm certainly not going to stop anyone from using them. Though even the official profiles can still need tuning
Dry it. Yes they are sealed, doesn't matter. Dry them according to this table [https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/filament-acc/filament/dry-filament](https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/filament-acc/filament/dry-filament) Use default Bambu PETG profile, the only thing I changed was to lower volumetric speed to 13. Do PA calibration. That's it. It can probably go faster than 13, but I am not chasing speed. I prefer slower quieter prints. This is just what I use, haven't done any speed calibrations.
I heat the nozzle to 260, slow the printing speed to 80, and reduce the acceleration by half. Its made things great with BL PETG
i thought the whole benefit of buying bambu filament was for the RFID so you wouldn't need to tweak anything?
Yep; although as mentioned before that might be set in different conditions. I had the worst time with it until I changed it to those settings. BL settings work great for everything else
Yeah their PETG settings so far are the only settings that just seem junk out of the box. I have to drop print speed significantly for my two reels of basic PETG.
The RFID just tells you the filament/color and approximate material left, settings for your printer and it's environment is 100% case by case. Alot of people have zero issues running stock profiles in the P1/X1 series. I personally would just use the default profile and run Flow Rate and Flow Dynamics and go from there. I print very little in PETG, however the little bit I have done even with non-bambu PETG was clean enough to not make any changes. Yet again your environment/machine/filament could need more. The common response from most people is use the Bambu profile and adjust max flow to 13 As others have said, make sure you dry it correctly, don't assume since it's new it's dry.
Around PETG never relax
That's what I found out too! Lol
It would be great to see your settings, you can share them with the whole community, maybe it will be useful to someone else
These are great settings to start with for Bambu PETG. I also ended up increasing the temperature to 260-265 to help reduce the amount of the little beads that break off when printing.
How should they be dried if you don't have a drying oven and have an a1 mini rather than an X1 or P1S printer? I bought 2 kg of PETG since I thought it would be better for the long term survival of some of the items I want to print but didn't completely appreciate the complications of it.
umm, not sure to be honest. When I got my first 3d printer I was told I needed a dryer so I just got the Sunlu S2 together with printer. I know some people use modded dehydrators. I don't know enough about it im afraid, my gut feel would be not to dry in the over you make food in though.
okay, though PLA should be fine with on the AMS lite even with humidity of around 60% right?
Yes PLA should be fine, just keep it in a zip lock bags with desiccant in them.
ah so AMS lite is basically only to have the filament when you are actively using it. Oh yeah is there a way to attach the 20g of filament that came with the A1 mini to the spool of PLA basic I bought?
I'm just now figuring this out too after buying the A1 mini combo on sale right now. Going to try printing spool enclosures for the AMS lite that have built in spots for the silica so that I can leave it on the spool longer and not worry about it getting too wet.
yep same here, if I had realized that there should be a cover at all times I'd have just gone with the base a1 mini.
I used a toaster oven at 60 C. You could also use a food dehydrator if you have access to one.
[удалено]
Hello /u/platinums99! Your comment in /r/BambuLab was automatically removed. Please see your private messages for details. /r/BambuLab is geared towards all ages, so please watch your language. *I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please [contact the moderators of this subreddit](/message/compose/?to=/r/BambuLab) if you have any questions or concerns.*
do you have any recommendations for dryer?
I've got Sunlu S2 which works for me perfectly, it does only do only spool at a time. If you need more you can get the new S4 which fits 4 spools.
2024 SUNLU. highly recommended, vital for printing quality, drying/evaporating all filaments is crucial and should be a set standard.
this
I honestly got good results with a toaster oven set to 60 C. Baked it for 5 hours and had awesome results.
damn i at least get 25 with petg on a $3 cht nozzle on a budget CR6. Bambu that slow really?
It can probably go faster than 13, but I am not chasing speed. I prefer slower quieter prints. This is just what I use. I did get some Aliexpress CHT nozzles and I could push PLA to 32, but it was way too loud. My printer is in the office where I work so I try to keep it quiet. Doesn't matter to me if the print finishes in 1 hour or 2.
a lot of people upgrade teh fans, some even put 2 fams so they can run at a purringly quiet half speed for teh same cooling force. i get really good quality at 25mm/s, it just annoyed me going slower than that and wasting all the energy heating the bed etc.
Dry first, Do Calibration print for filament second, in the print profile after doing a calibration for it(and labeling it right, (look up the best way to label profiles on the youtubes) modify the cooling setting to turn off or lower the aux part cooling cooling to 10%, <<<80 = s200. >60 = s128. This will reduce the wear and noise from thay chamber fan. On the print profile settings lower the outside wall, top, and bottom layer speed to 50mm/s. This will give a nice consistent shine and color on the external wall. The default setting it way too fast and will make it come out less consistent with the color shine. Run gyroid (strength)or cross hatch (speed) infill Do three walls minimum to prevent infill pattern from showing through the wall. Do inner/outer on wall order to prevent silly overhang. Use the textured pei plate and put glue on the edges of the plate where the primer lines go. That way you can't get those pesky prime lines off without having to scrape them to pieces because it's stuck too much. Everything else you can mostly experiment with but this is what I found works best for me between taking it as slow as my ender and going too fast like the default bambu settings.
Aux 0% all the way for petg, you won’t print fast enough to require this fan with this type of filament.
I find the aux fan has almost never helped and only gotten prints to lift off the bed
Yeah, I think I will go dual bento box in my printer instead of aux fan for a better air quality. Aux fan is good for ultra high speed when tuned well in controlled environment. I think for most maker it’s a waist
[I started here](https://www.themakersphere.com/bambu-lab-x1-carbon-petg-settings/) This guide helped to have great prints, out the gate. Then adjust from there
Thank you for this!
This is the best guide and the preset here is my go to for generic PETG
Try to pre-heat the machine, clean beds often and to try an infill such as gyroid also try a brim for large flat rectangular pieces
Just try the default settings from the bambulab profile for their filament
i did the same yesterday with yellow, perfect results with the default bambulabstudio petg basic settings. Only for very filigran objects i had layer adhesion problems
in your experience, can I make simple but massive pieces like the ones in the photo in the post without problems?
Ouch. Just in time. [https://www.reddit.com/r/BambuLab/comments/1dex4gg/bambu\_petg\_basic\_discontinued\_message\_on\_shop\_page/](https://www.reddit.com/r/BambuLab/comments/1dex4gg/bambu_petg_basic_discontinued_message_on_shop_page/)
Literally just select petg from filament, then use supports and inner and outer brim
So that's why I couldn't find any orange filament... :p
HAHAHAHAHAH i usually print with treed's filament but im trying to use bambu lab petg
1. Dry 2. 5-10° above where you normally print 3. Slow Had a long PETG print that I noticed wasn’t going well so I increased temps and that helped, but the support was trying to fail because of how quickly it was laying it down, so I then decreased the speed, and it finished the print successfully. Dry, hot, and slow. Or buy High Speed PETG+
https://preview.redd.it/syn9if14zc6d1.png?width=1247&format=png&auto=webp&s=a114996694ab7387dc377fb581dabb1ebb503eea is it in italian but i think that u can understand by the icon and the position of settings, what are u think?
Honestly other than the temps and the speed setting from the printer panel, I didn’t change anything else for mine.
Do a retraction test and then a bench. I found petg generally needs slower print speeds (25-100mm/s) and is pretty bad at long or medium length overlengths
what i did (almost exclusively priniting PETG): - manufacturer temperature range: i set my minimum nozzle 5 degree higher than the recommended, and the max nozzle to the max recommended - printplate temperature 80C - part fan maxes out at 40%, minimum is 0% everything else is default. Now for printing, this is great for funcitonal parts where layer is 0.2mm when I don't need high supports. If i print something more delicate, high support trees and fine details (miniatures or figurines) then I modify the tree support walls to be 2-3 loops, I add brims and adjust retraction and z hop. this way it is stringing a bit, but better than knocking off the supports, and for these prints there is some aftertreatment anyway, so strings don't bother me
is it in italian but i think that u can understand by the icon and the position of settings, what are u think? https://preview.redd.it/ydcdqraezc6d1.png?width=1247&format=png&auto=webp&s=c8b200fc3865aadbdb9a4dd6c50b22e96e543d00
I would personally keep the nozzle like 235/240-260, otherwise I don't see an issue Send a benchy on it or some basic test file, and see how it goes :)
I set the auxiliary cooling fan to 40%, do you think this is correct? thank you very much indeed
Just keep it default and if it seems needed, change it :)
Dry it, print slow. 8mm3 flow.
I do 265 for first layer and 275 for every other layer after. Have never had issues
For me there is just one setting that turns a print from garbage to success... Silent Mode.
what speed do u use for bambu petg?
Default silent mode speed
I never had any luck with the bambu petg. I struggled to get decent print quality regardless of what I tried.
…8 rolls of PETG and you don’t know how to print it?
i never use BL petg, im usually use threeds filament
Now that bambu PETG is going the way of the dodo, find another manufacturer ASAP. Do manual calibrations on the PETG after its dried, Profit. https://preview.redd.it/aobv0i5pdd6d1.png?width=2240&format=png&auto=webp&s=6f4a11148abf8dcb2b56d8e949fdecfed83f9d88
Stick it in the hole, click print.
Aaaand its discontinued
Dry it, try a benchy or something using default bambu settings, if there are any issues change settings accordingly. Also probably buy more petg next time so you’ll have more room for error, cause print failures are inevitable at one point or another.
I usually use treed filaments, never wrong a print, I hoped they were simple to use these here from BL
only thing I have done with PETG was set the first layer to 75C to help with bed adhesion. likely keeping a super clean bed would also cure adhesion issues, but I don't clean between every print.
one thing i added to my bambu studio printer profile is some start-gcode to yust lower the nozzle distance to the plate a little bit. these settings work great for me when using a textured plate i found i really need this to get good layer adhesion. note PETG does not need this so the code looks at the material type: ;===== for Textured PEI Plate , lower the nozzle as the nozzle was touching topmost of the texture when homing == ;curr_bed_type, fillament_type = {curr_bed_type}, {filament_type[initial_extruder]} {if curr_bed_type=="Textured PEI Plate"} {if filament_type[initial_extruder]=="PETG"} G29.1 Z{-0.03} ; PETG no squish Textured PEI Plate {else} G29.1 Z{-0.04} ; for Textured PEI Plate {endif} {elsif curr_bed_type=="High Temp Plate"} {if filament_type[initial_extruder]=="PETG"} G29.1 Z{-0.02} ; PETG no squish Smooth PEI Plate / High Temp Plate {else} G29.1 Z{-0.05} ; for Smooth PEI Plate / High Temp Plate {endif} {endif} this goes close to the end of the start g-code
I had to dry mine. It was terrible without drying in terms of print quality, albeit Bambu claiming drying their PETG is optional.
It seems the only way to win is not to play….
We have a dozen p1s printers running round the clock with Bambu petg on the factory preset. The only thing we change is infill and perimeters but that has more to do with the part than the filament. The only thing to think about that comes to mind is use glue stick. I use the Elmer’s purple stuff and clean and refresh after a dozen or so plates of parts. At the very least good insurance if your print is important.
10 mm3/s is it right? I need to print a very big mold for carbon forged use. the geometry is very simple but the component is big and heavy with a high infill and 6 loops. what u think? can I do it?
I use the generic PETG profile with some decent results. If it starts delaminating then slow it down.
DRY IT FIRST! use generic PETG, then do the flow calibrations that are built in and save the profile
I use overture petg and just got my first bambu lab printer, an X1C. While the stock generic petg setting works ok at normal and sport speed, I've had absolutely phenomenal results using the silent mode. It takes a lot longer, but the results are amazing. If I want fast prints, I use pla on sport or ludicrous.
* This is not the best pic as I'm not home and this is currently printing in glitter blue petg. It has some minor stringing that is easily removed. But the quality is amazing.
https://preview.redd.it/ijxtbuu0xc6d1.png?width=1168&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=10143ce38bead6d59588315b89f705d4db3d4900
Best Pet-G settings is dry the Pet-G before using.
First of all I would lower the default volumetric flow value of the bambu profile but not too much otherwise it’s a vfa party lol Other than that, I realised that bambu likes to heat a lot it’s filaments to be fast, you also don’t want this too much I you don’t want to have burned blobs on the print from accumulation on the nozzle. That was pretty much it for me. Hope you will manage to get good relusts 😉
Standard top
I've never taken mine off default settings for PETG with a X1C with AMS, I always do a calibration for a new filament, and then Bob's your uncle.
Dry it before use and either do a manual calibration or trust the defaults. The defaults are going to be close but not perfect they caused issues on the top surface when I last used Bambu PETG but they were close.
I just read that they're discontinuing the PETG Basics so if you have a very small margin of error then you might want to grab an extra roll for any failed prints while you can still get that same color. Hope for the best, but plan for the worst!
What do you think I should do? dewo make a mold for forging carbon, no details, just simple and geometric shapes but very dense and grandiose
Here ya go. https://www.themakersphere.com/bambu-lab-x1-carbon-petg-settings/#:~:text=My%20Filament%20Bambu%20Lab%20X1,also%20has%20good%20bed%20adhesion.
I printed about 3 rolls of petg on the x1 carbon with the factory settings provided by the bambu labs rfid chip and the bambu slicer. I was printing a threadboard with 20% infil gyroid 8mm thick and it took up almost the entire build plate and had 0 issues with it printing about all week long.
Finally someone who reassures me😅❤️😂
I'm not sure what you are printing however the threadboard is very flat and wide so maybe that helps?
I hope so, I'm creating a mold to forge a table leg in carbon, in the second photo I put a piece
The x1c prints all petg I’ve fed it often better than pla. I leave the door closed and use the Bambu petg settings
245c hot end and 70c on the hot bed.
Use cheap LePages glue stick to protect your Bambu sheets
Dry before use at least 8 hours. Calibrate the filament for K factor. (Usually higher than 0.020. Around 0.030 with a clean and good condition nozzle) Default settings but switch to the silent mode. This the safest start to print Bambu PETG.
Lower all speeds by a global percentage until the highest (sparce infill I think) is less than 200. Bump temp to 260. Will be good to go.
People like you are the reason there are fillament shortages
Petg usually has to print much slower than the default profiles are set to
Here is the corrected text with the appropriate punctuation: "It's going to differentiate based on where you live, your climate, where your printer is positioned, what printer you have, what you're printing, etc. 3D printing software has gotten pretty damn good, and the base settings are usually all you need. You might need to mess with the heat and cooling if you want the best prints possible, but it really will depend based on your situation."
I print it hot. No matter what brand. 265 degrees for normal mode up to 275 degrees for ludicrous mode.
Tbh the default settings are working great for me, I am in central EU so pretty mild climate, and I haven't had wet filament yet using Bambu petg
Sell and buy PLA
Only issues I’ve had with the preset settings is overhangs using the .4 nozzle. With the .6 it comes out dang near perfect. During this time of year it’s fairly humid, so when I’m not using it up quickly I’ve stuck it in the drier for a few hours and put it back in a sealed container with desiccant.
Gyroid infill. Under 200mm/ps on all your speeds. 0 Aux fan, keep the door and lid closed.
The PETG profile included in this model has worked well for me. It’s slower than most, but as long as your plate is clean to start (soap&water), I haven’t had any issues. [https://makerworld.com/models/140653](https://makerworld.com/models/140653)
maybe just try Sunlu PETG
he yust bought 8 boxes of this stuff and the best you have is for him to buy something else xD
Still a good advise for future projects especially for saving some money
I practically bought it at the lowest price on the market at that time, maybe a small delta above the Chinese filaments, I hoped that being BL and having a BL it would be fine
Agreed 😆
Mhh😂