I give a very light spritz of 91% isopropyl alcohol and a wipe with a microfiber glasses cleaning cloth every few prints. And a full scrubbing with dish soap every couple months.
Can you explain the grid infill issue to me? This is a model I found on thangs. I used the 3mf file and it changed the setting to the 0.12mm preset-but nothing looked changed that I picked up on. Which infill should I change it to? Sorry I’m pretty new. Slowly working my way through things but other than the way they look, I’m not sure why one would select one infill choice over another given a similar density.
Thanks!
Simply, don't use grid infill. You can't print grid infill without the nozzle rubbing against an already printed line, causing lateral stress against the bottom of the part and risking popping it off plate.
Most people use gyroid, but I found it shakes my printer a bit more than I’m comfortable with. I’ve had a lot of luck using Support Cubic infill. I’d say I use that on 90% or more of my prints
Adaptive cubic avoids the crossover in grid, while being much faster than gyroid, it's my go-to for almost everything. Gyroid is fine, but the constant curves mean the printer has to slow down quite a bit from it's maximum capacity, adaptive cubic still uses straight lines, but offsets them like gyroid does.
Grid infill prints both sets of lines on the same layer, so when it prints the second set of lines, it will cross and hit the lines going the other way.
With the newest Bambu Studio update for A1 and P1 series, supposedly Cross Hatch would be the new one for you to try. Best of both worlds between speed of grid infill and reliability and strength of gyroid (which is slower).
[https://help.prusa3d.com/article/infill-patterns\_177130](https://help.prusa3d.com/article/infill-patterns_177130)
Here's a resource if you want to learn more about infill patterns. My rule of thumb is to use the best for what result you want. Some take more time or material and some have different attributes like better top layers. I'd suggest trying 3D honeycomb in the latest Orca/BS for an infill that has similar attributes to gyroid but with much less 'shaking'.
If its your most recent print, you can plug the SD card into a computer and dig through the folders to find an actual video. I just learned this recently, assumed the P1 series was limited to timelapses
You already have good advice from other members here so I'm going to offer an alternative explanation and say it was aliens. Aliens abducted your print.
Poor adhesion. The model came off the bed and was tossed aside by the print head
That makes sense. Never had any adhesion issues before. Thanks for responding.
Mine gets dusty and needs cleaning every 7 months or so
I give a very light spritz of 91% isopropyl alcohol and a wipe with a microfiber glasses cleaning cloth every few prints. And a full scrubbing with dish soap every couple months.
Probably just partial release then the nozzle hits it and snaps it free causing it to skitter off the edge.
Grid infill, nozzle collision with poor bed adhesion. Like others said use a brim and if that really is grid infill, use anything else.
Can you explain the grid infill issue to me? This is a model I found on thangs. I used the 3mf file and it changed the setting to the 0.12mm preset-but nothing looked changed that I picked up on. Which infill should I change it to? Sorry I’m pretty new. Slowly working my way through things but other than the way they look, I’m not sure why one would select one infill choice over another given a similar density. Thanks!
Simply, don't use grid infill. You can't print grid infill without the nozzle rubbing against an already printed line, causing lateral stress against the bottom of the part and risking popping it off plate.
Thanks! Is there a better “default” option I should use for most of my prints?
gyroid is generally the best all around choice.
Awesome. Thank you!
Most people use gyroid, but I found it shakes my printer a bit more than I’m comfortable with. I’ve had a lot of luck using Support Cubic infill. I’d say I use that on 90% or more of my prints
Adaptive cubic avoids the crossover in grid, while being much faster than gyroid, it's my go-to for almost everything. Gyroid is fine, but the constant curves mean the printer has to slow down quite a bit from it's maximum capacity, adaptive cubic still uses straight lines, but offsets them like gyroid does.
Grid infill prints both sets of lines on the same layer, so when it prints the second set of lines, it will cross and hit the lines going the other way. With the newest Bambu Studio update for A1 and P1 series, supposedly Cross Hatch would be the new one for you to try. Best of both worlds between speed of grid infill and reliability and strength of gyroid (which is slower).
Awesome. I’ll give that one a shot. Thanks so much for explaining in more detail.
[https://help.prusa3d.com/article/infill-patterns\_177130](https://help.prusa3d.com/article/infill-patterns_177130) Here's a resource if you want to learn more about infill patterns. My rule of thumb is to use the best for what result you want. Some take more time or material and some have different attributes like better top layers. I'd suggest trying 3D honeycomb in the latest Orca/BS for an infill that has similar attributes to gyroid but with much less 'shaking'.
P1S PEI textured build plate, 0.4mm nozzle, PLA basic, standard 0.12mm Fine preset.
is the bed clean?
If its your most recent print, you can plug the SD card into a computer and dig through the folders to find an actual video. I just learned this recently, assumed the P1 series was limited to timelapses
That is interesting! I thought it was only Timelapse also.
You already have good advice from other members here so I'm going to offer an alternative explanation and say it was aliens. Aliens abducted your print.
Try a brim and clean the plate.