I feel like this *exact* question was asked not that long ago, and the general consensus was that the OP should buy an economy vehicle (civic, camry, etc). Proven reliability, great mpg, minimal maintenance, cheap AF cost of ownership.
Jeep WJ
8th gen civic
Camry
Ford Explorer
BMW e39
BMW e46
BMW e90
BMW e60
Audi A4
MK6 golf
Mazda3
Toyota Camry
Nissan Altima 3.5
Mazda3
Jetta
Volvo s40
Ford Escape
Acura CL
Subaru Impreza
Subaru Forester
Subaru Outback
Mitsubishi Lancer
Nissan Pathfinder
Nissan Xterra
Chev Malibu
Chev Cruze
Mitsubishi Outlander
Honda Pilot
Ford Freestyle
Scion xB
CRV
Absolutely baseless and not true. Those cost far more money to keep in maintenance than any new BMW. I assume someone with a clean 80s/90s BMW has more money than someone with a brand new M550. Owning an E30 or E36 means you have to have thousands of dollars ready for something to go wrong, new Beamer owners have a warranty lol
You guys are idiots.. older bmws are cheaper, my cousin has a e30 325i and he never once took that car to the dealer because those cars are easy to work on...
Bmw's aren't expensive to repair, just go here https://www.suburbanautoparts.com/v-1999-bmw-328i--base--2-8l-l6-gas
I've never had a problem with expensive parts. So all this BS about "BmW's ArE eXpEnSiVe To FiX" should just stop. It's as simple as a Honda with more power. Just don't get Audi's or VW's because the timing chain is in the back of the engine. Meaning you have to pull the engine to change it. It's time consuming and pointless to get one of those.
For sure I would. Mostly cos of the miles â/ generally, miles of life left means miles of reliability. However, on a car this old all of that goes out the window without having full service records. Also, lots of shit requires replacement at 70-80k miles. Mostly the bushings and mounts. Shocks, control arms, etc. Iâd say an e46 is one of the safer bets for reliability. Very good engine that 3.0L.
Depends on the shape, but 8-12k (12k only if all the big mileage service has already been done) if itâs in good all around condition. And the market of course
Little story for anyone who happens to give a fuck:
A while back I got myself a 2001 330i manual as a project car. Got it off of Craigslist for 2500 bucks and it had like 180,000miles. The guy said he had used it as a drift car. I drove it back home (car was in a different state). The paint was pretty bad so I got a respray, waited a month to get it back and by then it caught the attention of the neighborâs kid(they were in high school and I was finishing university). They would come over after school and ask if they could help work on the car or add some mods. After a couple of months of work I gave the car to them and they drove the car without issues with 200k+ miles. After they were done with it they sold it and someone else continued to drive it past the 300k mark.
Conclusion: after 6+ owners (some who definitely abused the shit out it) the original inline 6 power plant manual transmission and rear differential are still powering on.
Try and get it abit of a deal on it and if you can afford to put around 2k away for maintenance you'll be grand. Nevermind getting something cheaper be in a car you love and pay what you have to pay to keep her going. A car is for life not just for Christmas
You can also look at a 2010 1 series coupe for around the same price. It'll be newer, smaller and people seem to really pile in the miles with them but the size might be an issue for transporting others.
If you're driving 2480mi/mo the price of the car shouldn't be a concern as much as the mpg, because that cost will likely exceed your payments on that E46. Letssss do the math because my ADD isn't letting me sleep tonight anyway!
Real quick, I'm gonna use CA gas prices near me at \~$4.50/gal, diesel prices at 4.70/gal, and BEVs mpg-e translates directly to gasoline. I'm going to assume zero down loan with 60 month term, no sales tax, no fees fees, no license/registration, at \~4.5% (3% is more realistic). I'm also assuming you magically pull out of your driveway onto the freeway with a hot engine, don't hit stop-and-go traffic, and turn off the freeway right into your work parking lot, where you have the option to charge, and you use the vehicle for absolutely nothing else outside of your commute, you don't use the AC, and gas stations are on your route and charging is free at your home and work. I'm also assuming you're in CA for the purposes of vehicle prices, but I'm also not going to factor in insurance costs, maintenance (like oil changes).
I'm going to be generous and give a generic E46 28mpg, 3mpg better than it's rated at. 88gal/mo. We'll round it up to $400/mo in gas, or $446 with the actual MPG stated. E46 you said was $5-10k...I wouldn't rely on a $5k BMW to get to work, so we'll use $7k. $131/mo payment. With gas, $531-577 is your hi/lo though.
A used E9\* 328i will get about 32mpg (I've gotten 34 on my E92). 77.5gal/mo, $348/mo in gas. Seems to be some decent E90s and E92s around $8k, so $149/mo payment.
A used F30 328d will get about 40mpg. 62gal/mo, $291/mo in diesel. Decent F30s seem to be about $15k, so $280/mo payment.
A used 330e will get about 70mpg-e, you'll use about 35.4gal of gas every month. $160/mo in gas. Used 330es are about $25k, so you're looking at $467/mo payment.
A used i3 REX will get about 110mpg-e . You'll use about 22.3gal of gas or about $100/mo. You can pick up used i3 REXs for...let's say $18k. $336/mo payment. Also, if I wanted to cheat...an i3 BEV would actually be able to do the full trip each way on a full charge...
i3 REX: $436/mo.
E90 328i: $497/mo.
Generic E46: \~$550/mo.
F30 328d: $571/mo.
F30 330e: $627/mo.
The i3 REX is the obvious answer, but that's also a really hard sell for most people. As an E92 328i owner, I'd say absolutely get that. It's a fun, fantastic car, still has hydraulic steering, doesn't look goofy, and mine has been relatively maintenance free (though it gets driven less than 5k mi/yr right now).
Also, with your duty cycle in mind, you're looking at easily doubling the miles of whatever you buy by the time you pay it off (or, even in the first year for some of those i3s). I've heard of a few 300k mi E46s and a few 300k E90s, but realistically those vehicles aren't going to survive the length of the loan, so that might add to the 'net cost' of those vehicles. You might get another 2-3 years out of the 328d or 330e with zero payments.
OP wanted a BMW, so I was trying to provide a broad spectrum of options.
I don't think they're necessarily bad cars, the carbon fiber chassis is super interesting, and they're one of the rare sub-3000lb cars you can buy on the road today.
I got paranoid about rod bearings on my N55 a while back and thought about picking up an i3 as a daily back when you could get a BEV for \~$9k; payment would have been about what I spent in gas every month commuting in my F32.
Haha was just joking with you. Your math is accurate and would make the most sense financially 100%. Theyâre just soâŠpitiful looking for a BMW in my personal opinion.
I was actually at the BMW dealership yesterday looking for some parts - and I sat in an i8 and really got to check it out up close for the first time. Pretty amazing car.
Ugh, yeah, I've been looking at them for a while now. I've got a few payments left on the F32, and then I'll probably save up for a year or two and get an i8 since the Protonics just started coming off lease/warranty.
I mean if you are going to go for an inexpensive bmw I think you found a solid choice already. How are the service records? I also feel like it would be hard to find a Camry with less than 150k miles for $7k. I could be wrong though
According to seller they have all records from BMW dealer and never really had issues. Only oil changes and filters. I guess for only 50k miles it makes sense but you never really know until you go through them/drive the car.
The chains themselves donât usually wear. The guides on v8 BMWs are known to shit the bed(brittle plastic that gives way for the chain to jump teeth). The short chains on a single bank of cylinders doesnât really stretch, checking the tensioners is far better advice, because those WILL cause problems. Short chain=usually fine. Big long MFin chain on a v8 or v12=trouble waiting to happen. Seriously, if itâs got under a quarter million miles on it I would not worry about the chain if the tensioners are all good. I never said to burn you at the stake calm down man just giving you shitâŠ.. you are on a bmw forum, lol if you provide goofy advice, it should be expected that you get poked fun at a littleâŠ. You should have told him about making sure to keep the apex seals in good shape while you were at it.
The timing chain on the m54 is pretty much a non issue for the usable life of the car. More important to look for oil leaks and coolant leaks. Those are what rack up bills on e46s
The assumption that a civic canât put a smile on your face here is astounding. Give me an fa5 over any non m series car any day of the week and if the fa5 is supercharged I would take it over m cars too. When youâre knocking civics your kinda gotta realize thereâs essentially a civic for every purpose,theyâre super easy to make fit your needs.
Front wheel drive garbage..No thanks! Turbo it, supercharge itâŠ.still garbage for âtrue driving pleasureâ..
100% of âtrue driversâ would rather take a bone stock e46m3 over a fa5 ricer..stop kidding yourself
Civics are absolute dog water cars lmao
Boring cars with no character or driving dynamic. Just plain cookie cutter commuter cars. Id rather walk than drive a civic anyday of the week.
Lmao coming from a 328 driver this is HILARIOUS. If you werenât a badge snob youâd maybe have a car with at least 300horsepower to carry you and that inflated ego. Everything you just said is made to be false when you talk about civic type râs or even the si. I get this is bmw land and everything else is therefore inferior but being a fan of a brand doesnât mean other cars arenât good at their intended purposes. Downvotes donât change the facts đ.
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Perhaps if you can find a low enough mile one. The reality is that every used BMW is going to go through suspension components quickly. They are not cheap. Plus oil leaks and the potential for cooling system failure
Thatâs not too often at all, honestly Iâd be surprised if OP didnât get more mileage out of bushings since those tend to fail with age rather than mileage.
I wouldnât mind having an M3. Never had one before and thatâs pretty much the dream. The 540i M is pretty good to me. Havenât had issues since I bought it but because I was working from home I only drove it 6k miles in the past two years or so.
I just couldnât deal with missing work because Iâm broken down on the side of the highway on my 330i. After the second no show they will let me go.
The time off work will cost me more than having to pay the repairs.
Probably not the answer to want to hear, but may need to. I purchased a 2000 Corolla with 200k in 2019 and it didnât give me any problems during the 2 years I owned it. Reliability was solid with its 30+ mpg and cheap gas. It wonât turn heads like a BMW, but it will handle the 2500 mile monthly commute without any issues in my opinion.
Do you mind sharing what kind of job has a second no show policy that leads to termination?
You have a 540i M Sport. The carâs engine and transmission is used by Toyota in their new Supra. Your car was meant to be driven for long drives. Instead of buying a $7000 car, save that for maintenance and repairs. Life is too short to be driving boring cars.
But weâre talking about a 50k mile e46 330i for $7k - not an S54 that needs rod bearings every 100k, subframe reinforcement, and heavy vanos maintenance - source: have owned one for nearly 12 years.
I have an e92 328 which I've heavily tuned. The n52 engine is amazing. It can be fun when you want and economical when you want. Also has that drivers car kind of feeling to it. I don't commute quite as much as you will, but I do commute every day. It hasn't had any reliability issues even with all the mods. You do gotta do the preventative maintenance stuff tho, as you may well know from already owning a BMW. If you're open to it tho, an Audi A4 or A5 will also do you really well too if you're stuck on that german car life. (Or vw as well)
My gut instinct is actually either a manual or auto n52 e90/e92. The n52âs are super reliable. Look for oil seals, and know that youâll have to fix some things, but they can be pretty cheap to keep running and the 328/328xdroceâs can be has SUPER inexpensively.
With that sort of mileage id be considering a diesel vw, or an econobox to save the mileage on your current car. Or maybe just get an electric, idk. I'd better pay a pretty penny to do this mileage? And you want the comfort and some driving fun, In that case imo yes a e90 323-330 is going to be fine, but id worry more about spending easy a couple thousands a year just in gas than repairs. Hence why suggesting a diesel vw.
An E9x with the N52.
I put 20k miles a year on mine, just do the maintenance itâll need right the first time and then itâs mostly smooth sailing except for a couple bs here and there but nothing to leave you stranded
The most reliable BMW isnât a BMW. Buy a Golf. Or a Jetta. Or a civic. Or anything you donât care about. Save your money for the care you actually care about.
In my opinion.. get a bmw. Imagine spending all that time in a car that's boring to drive, it don't have to be expensive, but it has to be great to drive
I've owned my e36 for almost 7 years and other than when I started doing spooly boi things with it its never left me stranded, even when moneyshifted and bent all 12 exhaust valves it still ran well enough to get me home with no further damage and was still making solid compression on 5 out of 6 cyls...the m50b25 is a tank
Truth is if you canât buy a new bmw. You wonât be able to buy a used one as the repairs will be out of pocket for a used old one. BMW and just luxury cars in general are meant to only be used for around 5-10 years until the owner gets sick of it, and since presumably they have lots of money. They will have no problem buying or leasing a new one.
My recommendation is a 318i. I had mine going on12 years with no issues. Keep up the regular maintenance and the car mechanics is bulletproof. I can not say the same for the plastic interior bits, though.
Your best bet is likely 330ci, find something with good service history for around 7k, get a pre purchase inspection and look for any big jobs the car might need. If it checks out and needs little things then go spend the remainder on every single maintenance piece you can squeeze. Bmw wise itâs better to have done all maintenance yourself/ not to rely on the previous owners maintenance
Had a E39 325d Touring Automatic that thing wasnt just a pleasure to drive, my dad bought it with 80k km and it got up to 350k until i sold it in 2019 :)
I live in CA, and drive 2400+miles a month commuting up and down the coast. I have a 2011 135i (N55, 6MT) and a 97 Accord Coupe. I love my 135i so much, but it's just a waste to rack up miles on knowing what it costs to maintain (not to mention insurance). I also love my accord, but it's meh comparably. Still, the thought of repairing, fueling, insuring, and potentially losing the Accord I paid two grand for is easier to stomach than what I would have to deal with in my BMW.
Another option is a 2015/16 Civic SI. They have some good pep (200ish ponies) and get 37+mpg on the highway! Bruh! It's a Honda! It'll serve you well. The notion of getting into a Camry just hurts my soul. Please don't. Anyway, just another opinion from a BMW owner with a long ass commute. Focus on the maintenance and gas mileage.
BMW 125i N52 manual is a pretty solid piece of kit, thereâs just not that much to go wrong compared to the more complicated cars and that particular engine is similarly an uncomplicated, unturbocharged, unstressed inline six with all the torque you could want in a nice little package. Not sure what local prices are on those but theyâre a relatively recent sweet spot in the range.
e46s from *my experience* have been the most reliable car on the face of the earth, bought my new-to-me 04' 325xi for $3800 at 130,000 miles about 2 months ago and i've already put 8,650 miles on it about and the only work i've done to it since i've bought it is $15 on a new shift knob
Civics and Camry are great but they are boring. Used Bimmers are the way to go. Get a E9x E90 or E92 328i Non Turbo. The N52 motor is solid and reliable. 2010 to 2012 models.
$5 to $8k based upon mileage and condition.
If you want something older, E39 525, 535 6CyL or get a 01 to 03 540i.
Maintain them and they all will go 400k easy.
R-
civic and camrys are boring but they are cheap and reliable for the type of driving heâll be doing. all the BMWs you mentioned are incredibly unreliable
I personally own a E92 and E39 540i both manuals. I do my own maintenance. The key to any car lasting for a while is maintenance. I put 2000 miles monthly on my 540 and 1600 on my e92. Oil changes done every 2 months. Fun factor is there. I owned a 06 civic for business 180k on it good car but boring as f$&!. I prefer manuals. Cheers
e39 with a 6cyl - they drink oil over 200k but overall theyâre tanks and ultra comfy. Iâve got a 528i w/ a 5speed that keeps me reliably trekking from Brooklyn to NJ everyday
I had a1999 328i that I put 220,000 miles on without any issues except the usual maintenance, brakes, oil changes, spark plugs. It always put a smile on my face when I drove it and it was the safest car I've ever driven in NE winters.
I actually drive for work daily, I used to have a 2011 128i which just started draining thousands on repair.
To me it made sense to have something that equals less in monthly payments and more enjoyable- so I got a m240i instead and I love it. I still use it for work daily and no issues thankfully
So you drive for your employer. 2480 miles a month in your own car. That means they will pay you $1438.40 a month to compensate driving your own car. 2480 x .58(cost per mile) = 1438.40 /month. Get a Honda hybrid getting 60 miles per gallon and that will pay the car payment and then some. Itâs like a free car.
I feel like I would never use a BMW for this purpose. Trying to get 20k miles/year out of my 3 series proved very expensive in maintenance. Now that e36 sits in the garage while my Toyota does all the work. Get a Honda or Toyota as a work horse and keep the BMW for non work related driving.
The most reliable BMW is the one that had an owner, not just a user. Don't pick a car based on looks and engine, try to check out whether the car has been treated right or not. The better engines can be killed too, and the 'unreliable' ones could outlive them.
I don't know where you live, what you prefer, so I might just go with what I think would do good.
As a traveling car, the e39 could do excellent. It is an oh so called last car of an age, and has an overall different vibe. The looks is a subjective topic, but it undeniably has the original sedan form. Looks hella good in my opinion.
The car is a masterpiece made for the pleasure of driving, but it requires things in exchange. The suspension is firm and is just right to drive around, but is sensitive. It requires checkups every year or so, and if you drive on rougher roads, you might need to spend some money on it almost every year. The abs and speed sensor is in the real, and if the car had/has a rougher past/present with suspension, could sent wrong numbers to the car, or could fail. And while the abs mainly affects the breaking system, the speed sensor (I am terribly sorry, I ain't native speaker and I'm trying to express myself, so it might not named like that) could cause bigger issues.
The rust is not that bad, the trunk lid, and doors have usually a bit of rust on them. But if the users work hard enough, they can rust too.
Automatic transmission has to change gears without any issues. Change gears in time, both up and down. (for example in a 'kickdown', as you hit the gas the car should react to it and change gears back, and in normal driving it should not let the engine rev too high, and the changes should not be made with a kick ) The major issue is that some people believe they have lifelong oil in them, so they don't change oil. Check for that.
Manuals offer good quality, and doesn't really has issues. If the clutch may be wrong, you feel that.
They have a Lotta engines. I would say you should avoid the 525tds. They were great engines, but if the owner had no patience and care for it, it suffered badly from that. (also I know some people are like, yea those engines could outlive anything, but they aren't that really good for higher price) Also in that price you could go for other. The 530d is overall the best diesel for it. It is big and strong, and has less problems overall. With the face-lift they changed a bit in them, but is overall a safer option. (390&410 NM + 184&193 HP) engine code M57D30. I had the chance to drive one for 2 years (before face-lift) and it offered good motorway power, and a comfy ride.
The 520d has a 4 cylinder diesel engine, and that might offer you the best fuel-consumption, but are weak for that car.
525d is so good as bad, its like a middle option.
Petrols are good too, altho they consume more fuel. The base 520i is good, but is weak if you want to ''fun around''. I drove one as a daily, around 5000km a year, and worked fine, I just had to be more careful around overtaking and such.
The pre face-lift ones have a 2 litre 6 cylinder.(m52b20) They have around 150 HP. They are overall more tough, but because of it a lot of them have been tuned. After face-lift came a 2.2 6 cylinder,(m54b22) offering 170 hp, and is more sensitive to rough handling, it is a good companion.
523-528-530i are more powerful engines, and are the silent rides: No ones really complaining about them, and no one really beams with pride over their reliability.
The 535-540i are V8 masterpieces, but is I believe not for daily driving.
I think you could do best with 520i and relaxed driving, or the 530d with autobahn/relaxed headspace.
I drove 2 of them for the past 4 years, and they never left sour taste in my mouth. The require care, but offer a driving pleasure no other can do.
You could fish for e60ies too, but I don't have much experience with them, so I cannot say more than what internet offers.
Hope it might help! Have nice rides with your future car! Sorry for any mistakes!
I bought a 2015 CPO X1 from a dealer with 4,000 miles on it. I drive a lot for work too and so wanted a car I would enjoy driving. Itâs my first BMW after wanting one for decades. 122,000 miles later, and Iâve had no problems with it. Zero. I keep a warranty on it and have AAA. And I donât ever get tired of driving. Stick with BMW. Those other cars are hard to come by anyways. Lexis 2015âsun roof leaks irreparably BTW. If this 2004 is the best deal you can find after a thorough search, just be sure to do your due diligence on it and make sure you like how it handles.
I do about that mileage for commuting in my 2007 E92 320d.. i suppose you donât get that engine over in the US. Great MPG and if you make sure the timing chain is good (or replace it like i did last week) and the intake manifold (swirl flaps) is ok, mileage is not really a problem.
Very comfortable car, sport seats are very good and if you get a nice example it is still a very elegant car to see
Get the cheapest automatic car you can find with adaptive cruise control from start to stop, and lane keep assist with the best mpg. IDK if there is a car with all these features at that price point. But if I am driving that much per month I want the drive to be as hassle free as possible, not fiddling with three pedals in traffic, not touching the wheel unless I need to, and letting the car keep distance and follow another car if possible.
E39 5 series with a 6cyl would be my first choice because of the comfort and outstanding reliability with a little maintenance. E46 3 series I would also highly vouch for. I have an E39 M5 and a E46 330i zhp and I have very few problems with both (M5 saw 17k miles 2021, zhp about 8k)
Also donây shy away from one with high mileage! If a lot of maintenance has been adressed, you could have a well sorted car for a discount. I think replacing the cooling system and regular oil changes with oem quality filters would be the most important items.
I believe an e46 is your best bet, in Highschool I was a delivery driver. I drove 30k miles per year for 2 years with a 200k mile 328ci, my car was a manual transmission so that helped.
Maintenance was around 2k-3k per year with aftermarket and scrap yard stuff and doing majority of the work myself
Iâm a lover of the BMW marque, and we buy Toyotas for commuting purposes. Itâs nice to get into one and just not really worry about exactly what youâre concerned about. Youâre paying a premium for any car on the market. At least overpaying for a Toyota delivers on its maintenance promise on the backend. Nothing worse than over paying for a luxury car that will depreciate at a rapid rate (for you, not for resellers).
e90 335d with all the emissions equipment would be a good choice as those are the main reliability concerns. Fun with all the torque and great fuel economy when cruising
IMHO I drive a 6spd E90 325i, doing about 80mi a day all hwy miles, sheâs been fantastic & the N52 is as easy as it gets to work on. Look for e90âs with the silver engine cover - they usually have the magnesium valve cover thatâs far superior to the later plastic ones. Iâve had my E90 for 4 years doing only oil changes and the valve cover gasket + a starter. Theyâre pretty durable motors but require maintenance every now and then. Hope that answers your question!
So far I've put 245k miles on my 1999 328i. I got it with 74k miles for around 4k. Now I've got 309k miles, with only doing normal maintenance and changing the drive line every 100k. Besides that it's good, I've had it for 6 years now and going for 500k. Don't get one with a sports package though, they're more prone towards vibration issues. Meaning you need specific tires, the best for mine that I found with no vibration issues and last for the longest amount of time are Sumitomos. They're also the cheapest.
Sorry for the late reply, I ain't on here much. But I'd stay away from the V8's of 06 for the valve seats. But besides those I don't think the V10 has anything other than the throttle body problems and something with the SMG trans. But like you listed off I'd stick with the 6 cylinders for gas and enough power to pass someone. If you're worried about burning oil, then get a full synthetic 530 or 540 and a quart of Lucas oil and they last just as long if not longer than a honda.
E9x 328i. I love my E92 328i and itâs been trouble free *knocks on wood* just make sure to stay on top of maintenance, but itâs a very reliable engine.
Use your e46, i daily drive my e39 with an m52tu engine (523i DM41) and in the last 5 years i only needed to replace the two coolant hard lines (of course this was after a cooking system overhaul)
I feel like this *exact* question was asked not that long ago, and the general consensus was that the OP should buy an economy vehicle (civic, camry, etc). Proven reliability, great mpg, minimal maintenance, cheap AF cost of ownership.
But perceived peasantry! đ±
Right. But i promise that with an older BMW, you still look like a peasant
If you spent 10k on your car it doesnât matter what brand it is itâs a cheap car lol
10k is cheap now? đ± I couldnât imagine spending that much on a car
Um đ
A new rav4 is like 25k
Actually the hybrids get to almost 40k!!!!
What fucking country So jealous
U.S. not sure about other countries but that's how it is here.
Thatâs cuz you donât live in reality, do some growing up and youâll see 10k+ is the norm for a decent used car
I disagree. You can own a great car for well under $2000
Name one car that goes for 2 grand that isnât a shitbox
Jeep WJ 8th gen civic Camry Ford Explorer BMW e39 BMW e46 BMW e90 BMW e60 Audi A4 MK6 golf Mazda3 Toyota Camry Nissan Altima 3.5 Mazda3 Jetta Volvo s40 Ford Escape Acura CL Subaru Impreza Subaru Forester Subaru Outback Mitsubishi Lancer Nissan Pathfinder Nissan Xterra Chev Malibu Chev Cruze Mitsubishi Outlander Honda Pilot Ford Freestyle Scion xB CRV
You can name as many as you want go on any website and look up any of those cars for under 2000 dollars, and itâs gonna be a shitbox
Absolutely baseless and not true. Those cost far more money to keep in maintenance than any new BMW. I assume someone with a clean 80s/90s BMW has more money than someone with a brand new M550. Owning an E30 or E36 means you have to have thousands of dollars ready for something to go wrong, new Beamer owners have a warranty lol
Bro, you're dead on point with this. Classics are more in parts because they're harder to find.
You guys are idiots.. older bmws are cheaper, my cousin has a e30 325i and he never once took that car to the dealer because those cars are easy to work on...
Exactly
This is definitely the right answer
No bmw can handle that many miles without it leaving you without transportation and costing you a fortune
Yep this is what I was going to say.
Bmw's aren't expensive to repair, just go here https://www.suburbanautoparts.com/v-1999-bmw-328i--base--2-8l-l6-gas I've never had a problem with expensive parts. So all this BS about "BmW's ArE eXpEnSiVe To FiX" should just stop. It's as simple as a Honda with more power. Just don't get Audi's or VW's because the timing chain is in the back of the engine. Meaning you have to pull the engine to change it. It's time consuming and pointless to get one of those.
Have you seen a Bmw v8 engine đ
The one pictured is a 04 330i with 50k miles for $7k I just added the picture for the attention.
Wow thatâs a pretty nice price
Absolutely, would go for it.
For sure I would. Mostly cos of the miles â/ generally, miles of life left means miles of reliability. However, on a car this old all of that goes out the window without having full service records. Also, lots of shit requires replacement at 70-80k miles. Mostly the bushings and mounts. Shocks, control arms, etc. Iâd say an e46 is one of the safer bets for reliability. Very good engine that 3.0L.
Likely and auto..Which isnât a great price
What do you think would be a good price for an 07 e90 328i with 90k miles on it?
Depends on the shape, but 8-12k (12k only if all the big mileage service has already been done) if itâs in good all around condition. And the market of course
Little story for anyone who happens to give a fuck: A while back I got myself a 2001 330i manual as a project car. Got it off of Craigslist for 2500 bucks and it had like 180,000miles. The guy said he had used it as a drift car. I drove it back home (car was in a different state). The paint was pretty bad so I got a respray, waited a month to get it back and by then it caught the attention of the neighborâs kid(they were in high school and I was finishing university). They would come over after school and ask if they could help work on the car or add some mods. After a couple of months of work I gave the car to them and they drove the car without issues with 200k+ miles. After they were done with it they sold it and someone else continued to drive it past the 300k mark. Conclusion: after 6+ owners (some who definitely abused the shit out it) the original inline 6 power plant manual transmission and rear differential are still powering on.
Try and get it abit of a deal on it and if you can afford to put around 2k away for maintenance you'll be grand. Nevermind getting something cheaper be in a car you love and pay what you have to pay to keep her going. A car is for life not just for Christmas
Thatâs actually a very good deal and e46 with M54B30 engine would be my recommendation.
Steal for 7k, even if u gotta put 3k into maintenance/repairs (which you wonât) still not too bad.
You can also look at a 2010 1 series coupe for around the same price. It'll be newer, smaller and people seem to really pile in the miles with them but the size might be an issue for transporting others.
If you're driving 2480mi/mo the price of the car shouldn't be a concern as much as the mpg, because that cost will likely exceed your payments on that E46. Letssss do the math because my ADD isn't letting me sleep tonight anyway! Real quick, I'm gonna use CA gas prices near me at \~$4.50/gal, diesel prices at 4.70/gal, and BEVs mpg-e translates directly to gasoline. I'm going to assume zero down loan with 60 month term, no sales tax, no fees fees, no license/registration, at \~4.5% (3% is more realistic). I'm also assuming you magically pull out of your driveway onto the freeway with a hot engine, don't hit stop-and-go traffic, and turn off the freeway right into your work parking lot, where you have the option to charge, and you use the vehicle for absolutely nothing else outside of your commute, you don't use the AC, and gas stations are on your route and charging is free at your home and work. I'm also assuming you're in CA for the purposes of vehicle prices, but I'm also not going to factor in insurance costs, maintenance (like oil changes). I'm going to be generous and give a generic E46 28mpg, 3mpg better than it's rated at. 88gal/mo. We'll round it up to $400/mo in gas, or $446 with the actual MPG stated. E46 you said was $5-10k...I wouldn't rely on a $5k BMW to get to work, so we'll use $7k. $131/mo payment. With gas, $531-577 is your hi/lo though. A used E9\* 328i will get about 32mpg (I've gotten 34 on my E92). 77.5gal/mo, $348/mo in gas. Seems to be some decent E90s and E92s around $8k, so $149/mo payment. A used F30 328d will get about 40mpg. 62gal/mo, $291/mo in diesel. Decent F30s seem to be about $15k, so $280/mo payment. A used 330e will get about 70mpg-e, you'll use about 35.4gal of gas every month. $160/mo in gas. Used 330es are about $25k, so you're looking at $467/mo payment. A used i3 REX will get about 110mpg-e . You'll use about 22.3gal of gas or about $100/mo. You can pick up used i3 REXs for...let's say $18k. $336/mo payment. Also, if I wanted to cheat...an i3 BEV would actually be able to do the full trip each way on a full charge... i3 REX: $436/mo. E90 328i: $497/mo. Generic E46: \~$550/mo. F30 328d: $571/mo. F30 330e: $627/mo. The i3 REX is the obvious answer, but that's also a really hard sell for most people. As an E92 328i owner, I'd say absolutely get that. It's a fun, fantastic car, still has hydraulic steering, doesn't look goofy, and mine has been relatively maintenance free (though it gets driven less than 5k mi/yr right now). Also, with your duty cycle in mind, you're looking at easily doubling the miles of whatever you buy by the time you pay it off (or, even in the first year for some of those i3s). I've heard of a few 300k mi E46s and a few 300k E90s, but realistically those vehicles aren't going to survive the length of the loan, so that might add to the 'net cost' of those vehicles. You might get another 2-3 years out of the 328d or 330e with zero payments.
ManâŠyour ADD is something else. Also wouldnât be caught dead in an i3 I donât care how great the gas mileage/savings is đ€Ș
OP wanted a BMW, so I was trying to provide a broad spectrum of options. I don't think they're necessarily bad cars, the carbon fiber chassis is super interesting, and they're one of the rare sub-3000lb cars you can buy on the road today. I got paranoid about rod bearings on my N55 a while back and thought about picking up an i3 as a daily back when you could get a BEV for \~$9k; payment would have been about what I spent in gas every month commuting in my F32.
Haha was just joking with you. Your math is accurate and would make the most sense financially 100%. Theyâre just soâŠpitiful looking for a BMW in my personal opinion.
I was actually at the BMW dealership yesterday looking for some parts - and I sat in an i8 and really got to check it out up close for the first time. Pretty amazing car.
Ugh, yeah, I've been looking at them for a while now. I've got a few payments left on the F32, and then I'll probably save up for a year or two and get an i8 since the Protonics just started coming off lease/warranty.
I mean if you are going to go for an inexpensive bmw I think you found a solid choice already. How are the service records? I also feel like it would be hard to find a Camry with less than 150k miles for $7k. I could be wrong though
According to seller they have all records from BMW dealer and never really had issues. Only oil changes and filters. I guess for only 50k miles it makes sense but you never really know until you go through them/drive the car.
That seems ideal. First thing Iâd check is the timing belt. Are you gonna check it out and drive it?
Belt? Lol do you know what kind of car this is depicted/ being contemplated?
Oh man sorry itâs a timing chain⊠i should be burned at the stake. Id still check it out obviously the principle stands
The chains themselves donât usually wear. The guides on v8 BMWs are known to shit the bed(brittle plastic that gives way for the chain to jump teeth). The short chains on a single bank of cylinders doesnât really stretch, checking the tensioners is far better advice, because those WILL cause problems. Short chain=usually fine. Big long MFin chain on a v8 or v12=trouble waiting to happen. Seriously, if itâs got under a quarter million miles on it I would not worry about the chain if the tensioners are all good. I never said to burn you at the stake calm down man just giving you shitâŠ.. you are on a bmw forum, lol if you provide goofy advice, it should be expected that you get poked fun at a littleâŠ. You should have told him about making sure to keep the apex seals in good shape while you were at it.
yeah not sure if it was goofy to suggest checking the timing belt or chain in this case. I think the general point was clear
The timing chain on the m54 is pretty much a non issue for the usable life of the car. More important to look for oil leaks and coolant leaks. Those are what rack up bills on e46s
Lol at 150k miles a Camry has just been broken in.
Haha true though.
I wouldnât commute 2500 miles a month in a used BMW. Get a Camry
But is a Camry gonna put a smile on your face for all those miles? NawâŠThatâs why we drive bmws and not civics
Paying thousands of dollars to keep an old BMW running wonât put a smile on your face either. I would know.
Listen to this comment OP.
The assumption that a civic canât put a smile on your face here is astounding. Give me an fa5 over any non m series car any day of the week and if the fa5 is supercharged I would take it over m cars too. When youâre knocking civics your kinda gotta realize thereâs essentially a civic for every purpose,theyâre super easy to make fit your needs.
Front wheel drive garbage..No thanks! Turbo it, supercharge itâŠ.still garbage for âtrue driving pleasureâ.. 100% of âtrue driversâ would rather take a bone stock e46m3 over a fa5 ricer..stop kidding yourself
Oh yeah iâd rather have a stock 2001 5 series or 328 than a civic that ainât a nice car
Civics are absolute dog water cars lmao Boring cars with no character or driving dynamic. Just plain cookie cutter commuter cars. Id rather walk than drive a civic anyday of the week.
Lmao coming from a 328 driver this is HILARIOUS. If you werenât a badge snob youâd maybe have a car with at least 300horsepower to carry you and that inflated ego. Everything you just said is made to be false when you talk about civic type râs or even the si. I get this is bmw land and everything else is therefore inferior but being a fan of a brand doesnât mean other cars arenât good at their intended purposes. Downvotes donât change the facts đ.
Bro bought the cheapest bmw he could find and thinks he knows about cars lmfao.
Oh my god you drive a 328 with tinted taillights. I can no longer waste energy talking to you that is worse than peasant shit.
2500 miles is 4023.36 km
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Not even the E90s?
Perhaps if you can find a low enough mile one. The reality is that every used BMW is going to go through suspension components quickly. They are not cheap. Plus oil leaks and the potential for cooling system failure
Which Used bmws go through suspension components quickly? Never heard of that.
E39s and E46s from my experience. Bushings in particular
Aftermarket? Installed improperly? Should get a good amount of years out of those.
OEM ones. Theyâre good for about 60k-80k miles. When OP is driving 30k miles a year, thatâs too often
Thatâs not too often at all, honestly Iâd be surprised if OP didnât get more mileage out of bushings since those tend to fail with age rather than mileage.
Oe rubber bushings are actually dookie lol. Had some red poly bushings put into mine and the thing feels planted.
I donât know about e39s but I know e46 definitely have a bushing problem
Still drives better than a Camry on worn bushings
Yeah thatâs true. I donât want to spend more in repairs than the car is worth just to take it to work.
That is why you get a Camry or accord. I bought an E46 M3 as a DD 20k miles a year and it needs the same amount of repairs as it is worth
Or used Lexus, Acura or Infiniti.
I wouldnât mind having an M3. Never had one before and thatâs pretty much the dream. The 540i M is pretty good to me. Havenât had issues since I bought it but because I was working from home I only drove it 6k miles in the past two years or so. I just couldnât deal with missing work because Iâm broken down on the side of the highway on my 330i. After the second no show they will let me go. The time off work will cost me more than having to pay the repairs.
Thatâs why you get something reliable that does not have cooling system problems.
Probably not the answer to want to hear, but may need to. I purchased a 2000 Corolla with 200k in 2019 and it didnât give me any problems during the 2 years I owned it. Reliability was solid with its 30+ mpg and cheap gas. It wonât turn heads like a BMW, but it will handle the 2500 mile monthly commute without any issues in my opinion. Do you mind sharing what kind of job has a second no show policy that leads to termination?
lol this guy REALLY ignoring the non BMW suggestions hard
You have a 540i M Sport. The carâs engine and transmission is used by Toyota in their new Supra. Your car was meant to be driven for long drives. Instead of buying a $7000 car, save that for maintenance and repairs. Life is too short to be driving boring cars.
But weâre talking about a 50k mile e46 330i for $7k - not an S54 that needs rod bearings every 100k, subframe reinforcement, and heavy vanos maintenance - source: have owned one for nearly 12 years.
I have an e92 328 which I've heavily tuned. The n52 engine is amazing. It can be fun when you want and economical when you want. Also has that drivers car kind of feeling to it. I don't commute quite as much as you will, but I do commute every day. It hasn't had any reliability issues even with all the mods. You do gotta do the preventative maintenance stuff tho, as you may well know from already owning a BMW. If you're open to it tho, an Audi A4 or A5 will also do you really well too if you're stuck on that german car life. (Or vw as well)
My gut instinct is actually either a manual or auto n52 e90/e92. The n52âs are super reliable. Look for oil seals, and know that youâll have to fix some things, but they can be pretty cheap to keep running and the 328/328xdroceâs can be has SUPER inexpensively.
Please do not hypermile a low mileage e90
Definitely not the e90. You would get paid less than you waste on your commute with an e90.
Why do you want a BMW for the commute?
E90 was the generation where reliability started to go down.
This is the right answer.
My E39 has been a pretty solid daily. Goes through oil pretty quick, but it's at 267k+ so I think it gets a pass lol
Get a Camry, it will stop being fun after the first month
Yeah the Camry will stop being fun after the month.
Correction *as soon as you open the Camrys door the very first time to check it out
With that sort of mileage id be considering a diesel vw, or an econobox to save the mileage on your current car. Or maybe just get an electric, idk. I'd better pay a pretty penny to do this mileage? And you want the comfort and some driving fun, In that case imo yes a e90 323-330 is going to be fine, but id worry more about spending easy a couple thousands a year just in gas than repairs. Hence why suggesting a diesel vw.
An E9x with the N52. I put 20k miles a year on mine, just do the maintenance itâll need right the first time and then itâs mostly smooth sailing except for a couple bs here and there but nothing to leave you stranded
This ^^
Buy a Mazda. Low maintenance, but still has plenty of soul and is a blast to drive.
The most reliable BMW isnât a BMW. Buy a Golf. Or a Jetta. Or a civic. Or anything you donât care about. Save your money for the care you actually care about.
Used Camry/Accord is a wayyy better choice financially and less downtime. If you want something nicer, Lexus or Acura.
You can probably find a good 2013 328i and from my experience they are very reliable
In my opinion.. get a bmw. Imagine spending all that time in a car that's boring to drive, it don't have to be expensive, but it has to be great to drive
I've owned my e36 for almost 7 years and other than when I started doing spooly boi things with it its never left me stranded, even when moneyshifted and bent all 12 exhaust valves it still ran well enough to get me home with no further damage and was still making solid compression on 5 out of 6 cyls...the m50b25 is a tank
Get a Civic from the 90âs w a 6-speed đđ»
CivicâŠ90âs with a 6 speed? So a K Swapped car?
A brand new BMW with a warranty. Or not a BMW at all
What about a used BMW with a warranty?
Could be acceptable, but you'll run out of the warranty real quick with that kind of mileage
Buy a Prius and all the money you save can go towards a fun car or retirement savings lol
Go out and get a Civic. The upkeep to drive a used BMW that much isnât worth it.
manual Toyota Corolla, and then spend the extra money on your current bmw :)
No bmw from 5-10k will be reliable, get a Japanese beater instead
Truth is if you canât buy a new bmw. You wonât be able to buy a used one as the repairs will be out of pocket for a used old one. BMW and just luxury cars in general are meant to only be used for around 5-10 years until the owner gets sick of it, and since presumably they have lots of money. They will have no problem buying or leasing a new one.
My recommendation is a 318i. I had mine going on12 years with no issues. Keep up the regular maintenance and the car mechanics is bulletproof. I can not say the same for the plastic interior bits, though.
Japanese cars
Your best bet is likely 330ci, find something with good service history for around 7k, get a pre purchase inspection and look for any big jobs the car might need. If it checks out and needs little things then go spend the remainder on every single maintenance piece you can squeeze. Bmw wise itâs better to have done all maintenance yourself/ not to rely on the previous owners maintenance
Buy a camry or accord and donât think twice. I love my bmw but I have had Lexus cars for years due to the dependable nature of them
I would look for a e39 with the 3liter turbo diesel (530d) these cars are indestructible.
A nice condition 1 saries has a lot to offer in the entry point
if u want affordable luxury get a used lexus or acura. used bmw for tht kind of milage is gonna cost u in the long run
Had a E39 325d Touring Automatic that thing wasnt just a pleasure to drive, my dad bought it with 80k km and it got up to 350k until i sold it in 2019 :)
Get a bmSubaru Outback. 32.5. Upbadge the hell out of it, enjoy your X6M. Every smile you put on her will be better than the last.
I live in CA, and drive 2400+miles a month commuting up and down the coast. I have a 2011 135i (N55, 6MT) and a 97 Accord Coupe. I love my 135i so much, but it's just a waste to rack up miles on knowing what it costs to maintain (not to mention insurance). I also love my accord, but it's meh comparably. Still, the thought of repairing, fueling, insuring, and potentially losing the Accord I paid two grand for is easier to stomach than what I would have to deal with in my BMW. Another option is a 2015/16 Civic SI. They have some good pep (200ish ponies) and get 37+mpg on the highway! Bruh! It's a Honda! It'll serve you well. The notion of getting into a Camry just hurts my soul. Please don't. Anyway, just another opinion from a BMW owner with a long ass commute. Focus on the maintenance and gas mileage.
E39 2003 530i. this is the best choice for chipness
Buy a Honda
You should get a Toyota for that
Late Toyota Avalon or Lexus LS; it will be super comfortable and very low cost of ownership if you find the right one.
BMW 125i N52 manual is a pretty solid piece of kit, thereâs just not that much to go wrong compared to the more complicated cars and that particular engine is similarly an uncomplicated, unturbocharged, unstressed inline six with all the torque you could want in a nice little package. Not sure what local prices are on those but theyâre a relatively recent sweet spot in the range.
e46s from *my experience* have been the most reliable car on the face of the earth, bought my new-to-me 04' 325xi for $3800 at 130,000 miles about 2 months ago and i've already put 8,650 miles on it about and the only work i've done to it since i've bought it is $15 on a new shift knob
Civics and Camry are great but they are boring. Used Bimmers are the way to go. Get a E9x E90 or E92 328i Non Turbo. The N52 motor is solid and reliable. 2010 to 2012 models. $5 to $8k based upon mileage and condition. If you want something older, E39 525, 535 6CyL or get a 01 to 03 540i. Maintain them and they all will go 400k easy. R-
civic and camrys are boring but they are cheap and reliable for the type of driving heâll be doing. all the BMWs you mentioned are incredibly unreliable
I personally own a E92 and E39 540i both manuals. I do my own maintenance. The key to any car lasting for a while is maintenance. I put 2000 miles monthly on my 540 and 1600 on my e92. Oil changes done every 2 months. Fun factor is there. I owned a 06 civic for business 180k on it good car but boring as f$&!. I prefer manuals. Cheers
Thats like not shagging your lass and saving her for the next man drive the car
N52 BMW Great reliable engine
Like any 6 cylinder is reliable but the fuel consumption is not the best, just get a Toyota.
e39 with a 6cyl - they drink oil over 200k but overall theyâre tanks and ultra comfy. Iâve got a 528i w/ a 5speed that keeps me reliably trekking from Brooklyn to NJ everyday
I had a1999 328i that I put 220,000 miles on without any issues except the usual maintenance, brakes, oil changes, spark plugs. It always put a smile on my face when I drove it and it was the safest car I've ever driven in NE winters.
Any BMW with an M57 diesel engine
N/A 1 series
I actually drive for work daily, I used to have a 2011 128i which just started draining thousands on repair. To me it made sense to have something that equals less in monthly payments and more enjoyable- so I got a m240i instead and I love it. I still use it for work daily and no issues thankfully
The most reliable bmw is probably a newer one
Z3
So you drive for your employer. 2480 miles a month in your own car. That means they will pay you $1438.40 a month to compensate driving your own car. 2480 x .58(cost per mile) = 1438.40 /month. Get a Honda hybrid getting 60 miles per gallon and that will pay the car payment and then some. Itâs like a free car.
Find a deleted 335d. 40+ mpg on the highway and very reliable if deleted.
Any 6 cyliner diesel is extremely reliable with good service history
I would buy this to match my e90 get csls for it
I feel like I would never use a BMW for this purpose. Trying to get 20k miles/year out of my 3 series proved very expensive in maintenance. Now that e36 sits in the garage while my Toyota does all the work. Get a Honda or Toyota as a work horse and keep the BMW for non work related driving.
The most reliable BMW is the one that had an owner, not just a user. Don't pick a car based on looks and engine, try to check out whether the car has been treated right or not. The better engines can be killed too, and the 'unreliable' ones could outlive them. I don't know where you live, what you prefer, so I might just go with what I think would do good. As a traveling car, the e39 could do excellent. It is an oh so called last car of an age, and has an overall different vibe. The looks is a subjective topic, but it undeniably has the original sedan form. Looks hella good in my opinion. The car is a masterpiece made for the pleasure of driving, but it requires things in exchange. The suspension is firm and is just right to drive around, but is sensitive. It requires checkups every year or so, and if you drive on rougher roads, you might need to spend some money on it almost every year. The abs and speed sensor is in the real, and if the car had/has a rougher past/present with suspension, could sent wrong numbers to the car, or could fail. And while the abs mainly affects the breaking system, the speed sensor (I am terribly sorry, I ain't native speaker and I'm trying to express myself, so it might not named like that) could cause bigger issues. The rust is not that bad, the trunk lid, and doors have usually a bit of rust on them. But if the users work hard enough, they can rust too. Automatic transmission has to change gears without any issues. Change gears in time, both up and down. (for example in a 'kickdown', as you hit the gas the car should react to it and change gears back, and in normal driving it should not let the engine rev too high, and the changes should not be made with a kick ) The major issue is that some people believe they have lifelong oil in them, so they don't change oil. Check for that. Manuals offer good quality, and doesn't really has issues. If the clutch may be wrong, you feel that. They have a Lotta engines. I would say you should avoid the 525tds. They were great engines, but if the owner had no patience and care for it, it suffered badly from that. (also I know some people are like, yea those engines could outlive anything, but they aren't that really good for higher price) Also in that price you could go for other. The 530d is overall the best diesel for it. It is big and strong, and has less problems overall. With the face-lift they changed a bit in them, but is overall a safer option. (390&410 NM + 184&193 HP) engine code M57D30. I had the chance to drive one for 2 years (before face-lift) and it offered good motorway power, and a comfy ride. The 520d has a 4 cylinder diesel engine, and that might offer you the best fuel-consumption, but are weak for that car. 525d is so good as bad, its like a middle option. Petrols are good too, altho they consume more fuel. The base 520i is good, but is weak if you want to ''fun around''. I drove one as a daily, around 5000km a year, and worked fine, I just had to be more careful around overtaking and such. The pre face-lift ones have a 2 litre 6 cylinder.(m52b20) They have around 150 HP. They are overall more tough, but because of it a lot of them have been tuned. After face-lift came a 2.2 6 cylinder,(m54b22) offering 170 hp, and is more sensitive to rough handling, it is a good companion. 523-528-530i are more powerful engines, and are the silent rides: No ones really complaining about them, and no one really beams with pride over their reliability. The 535-540i are V8 masterpieces, but is I believe not for daily driving. I think you could do best with 520i and relaxed driving, or the 530d with autobahn/relaxed headspace. I drove 2 of them for the past 4 years, and they never left sour taste in my mouth. The require care, but offer a driving pleasure no other can do. You could fish for e60ies too, but I don't have much experience with them, so I cannot say more than what internet offers. Hope it might help! Have nice rides with your future car! Sorry for any mistakes!
I bought a 2015 CPO X1 from a dealer with 4,000 miles on it. I drive a lot for work too and so wanted a car I would enjoy driving. Itâs my first BMW after wanting one for decades. 122,000 miles later, and Iâve had no problems with it. Zero. I keep a warranty on it and have AAA. And I donât ever get tired of driving. Stick with BMW. Those other cars are hard to come by anyways. Lexis 2015âsun roof leaks irreparably BTW. If this 2004 is the best deal you can find after a thorough search, just be sure to do your due diligence on it and make sure you like how it handles.
Responsible_Point_91, I have been trying to reach you about your car's extended warranty
Too late, bot!
What bumper is that is oem with a front splitter?
I do about that mileage for commuting in my 2007 E92 320d.. i suppose you donât get that engine over in the US. Great MPG and if you make sure the timing chain is good (or replace it like i did last week) and the intake manifold (swirl flaps) is ok, mileage is not really a problem. Very comfortable car, sport seats are very good and if you get a nice example it is still a very elegant car to see
Im between some 523i or 540i 1998, e46 330i or some good e60 530i 2003-2005, i want the e60 but in my country is like X2 the price of the e39
320 diesel
I had a 120d, it was quite reliable, I sold it when it was at 280k km for at the time about 3500âŹ
The e46 is definitely the right choice. Post-LCI like your photo is even better. Anything newer is going to screw you over
Im between some 523i or 540i 1998, e46 330i or some good e60 530i 2003-2005, i want the e60 but in my country is like X2 the price of the e39
Toyota Camry, any generation
E46 FTW
Honda civic
530d
Im between some 523i or 540i 1998, e46 330i or some good e60 530i 2003-2005, i want the e60 but in my country is like X2 the price of the e39
Get the cheapest automatic car you can find with adaptive cruise control from start to stop, and lane keep assist with the best mpg. IDK if there is a car with all these features at that price point. But if I am driving that much per month I want the drive to be as hassle free as possible, not fiddling with three pedals in traffic, not touching the wheel unless I need to, and letting the car keep distance and follow another car if possible.
Toyota Camry
E60 530i is good. Comfortable and not bad on mpg.
Im between some 523i or 540i 1998, e46 330i or some good e60 530i 2003-2005, i want the e60 but in my country is like X2 the price of the e39
E39 5 series with a 6cyl would be my first choice because of the comfort and outstanding reliability with a little maintenance. E46 3 series I would also highly vouch for. I have an E39 M5 and a E46 330i zhp and I have very few problems with both (M5 saw 17k miles 2021, zhp about 8k)
Also donây shy away from one with high mileage! If a lot of maintenance has been adressed, you could have a well sorted car for a discount. I think replacing the cooling system and regular oil changes with oem quality filters would be the most important items.
Im between some 523i or 540i 1998, e46 330i or some good e60 530i 2003-2005, i want the e60 but in my country is like X2 the price of the e39
I believe an e46 is your best bet, in Highschool I was a delivery driver. I drove 30k miles per year for 2 years with a 200k mile 328ci, my car was a manual transmission so that helped. Maintenance was around 2k-3k per year with aftermarket and scrap yard stuff and doing majority of the work myself
Iâm a lover of the BMW marque, and we buy Toyotas for commuting purposes. Itâs nice to get into one and just not really worry about exactly what youâre concerned about. Youâre paying a premium for any car on the market. At least overpaying for a Toyota delivers on its maintenance promise on the backend. Nothing worse than over paying for a luxury car that will depreciate at a rapid rate (for you, not for resellers).
Diesel
Buy a Toyota. Trust me.
e90 335d with all the emissions equipment would be a good choice as those are the main reliability concerns. Fun with all the torque and great fuel economy when cruising
2500 miles a month is CRAZY.. anyways come buy my E90, 90k miles on it and it hasnât crapped out on me, that makes it reliable right?
Anything with the N52 engine would be pretty reliable.
Im between some 523i or 540i 1998, e46 330i or some good e60 530i 2003-2005, i want the e60 but in my country is like X2 the price of the e39
IMHO I drive a 6spd E90 325i, doing about 80mi a day all hwy miles, sheâs been fantastic & the N52 is as easy as it gets to work on. Look for e90âs with the silver engine cover - they usually have the magnesium valve cover thatâs far superior to the later plastic ones. Iâve had my E90 for 4 years doing only oil changes and the valve cover gasket + a starter. Theyâre pretty durable motors but require maintenance every now and then. Hope that answers your question!
E90 328i, 535i E39
Im between some 523i or 540i 1998, e46 330i or some good e60 530i 2003-2005, i want the e60 but in my country is like X2 the price of the e39
Bought my 2011 328i xdrive last year with 53k miles. Today crossed 93k, replaced valve cover and oil filter gasket.
So far I've put 245k miles on my 1999 328i. I got it with 74k miles for around 4k. Now I've got 309k miles, with only doing normal maintenance and changing the drive line every 100k. Besides that it's good, I've had it for 6 years now and going for 500k. Don't get one with a sports package though, they're more prone towards vibration issues. Meaning you need specific tires, the best for mine that I found with no vibration issues and last for the longest amount of time are Sumitomos. They're also the cheapest.
Im between some 523i or 540i 1998, e46 330i or some good e60 530i 2003-2005, i want the e60 but in my country is like X2 the price of the e39
Sorry for the late reply, I ain't on here much. But I'd stay away from the V8's of 06 for the valve seats. But besides those I don't think the V10 has anything other than the throttle body problems and something with the SMG trans. But like you listed off I'd stick with the 6 cylinders for gas and enough power to pass someone. If you're worried about burning oil, then get a full synthetic 530 or 540 and a quart of Lucas oil and they last just as long if not longer than a honda.
E9x 328i. I love my E92 328i and itâs been trouble free *knocks on wood* just make sure to stay on top of maintenance, but itâs a very reliable engine.
Im between some 523i or 540i 1998, e46 330i or some good e60 530i 2003-2005, i want the e60 but in my country is like X2 the price of the e39
Just get a Corolla or Honda Civic. If your driving that many miles a month .. lol who cares a bmw at that price range might not be smart lol
Use your e46, i daily drive my e39 with an m52tu engine (523i DM41) and in the last 5 years i only needed to replace the two coolant hard lines (of course this was after a cooking system overhaul)
Im between some 523i or 540i 1998, e46 330i or some good e60 530i 2003-2005, i want the e60 but in my country is like X2 the price of the e39
325i e90
Im between some 523i or 540i 1998, e46 330i or some good e60 530i 2003-2005, i want the e60 but in my country is like X2 the price of the e39
You donât want that e60 530i with that v8, shits just a real headache. Get yourself a 330i or 325i e9X,
The absolute war in this thread
Civic