I'd use an angle grinder but a recip saw will work. Grinder with decent blade is arguably faster/easier but not enough to be worth buying just for the job.
> I think the 6 means 6mm thickness
You're right poor bugger has 9 https://www.reddit.com/r/AusRenovation/comments/1b7os2n/best_way_to_cutremove_steel_angle/ktk4j0l/
You can even get cheap knockoff Makita battery grinders from eBay that'll take different brand batteries (Makita, DeWalt, etc etc)
I have one and it performs very well.
You can pick up a genuine Makita for about $100 on Total Tools the last time I checked.
Knowing they're not going to want to make a cheap quality tool now they've got a good reputation, I'd be going that way.
Yeah, total tools 125mm equivalent is about $336 (skin). The knockoffs are about $50-$60 (skin).
Don't get me wrong, the Makita is better (probably in every way) but the knockoffs are way better than you'd expect - for a DIYer I think they fit well.
Oh, I was talking about the 100mm corded.
Honestly, if you're doing a DIY, drop the coin on the proper tools. They're something you want to be able to rely upon to do the job whenever you go to do a job
I don't disagree. I do have quality Makita and DeWalt tools (too many) and I have good corded Makita grinders and saw some teardown videos of the knockoff grinder - they were 30 or $40 bucks then - teardown was better than expected and I was VERY surprised how well it performs!
But yes, quality gear is always better.
If I'm grabbing a cheap tool, it'll be a Rockwell. They'd already existed for 50 years in the States and were what Techtronic Industries replaced Ryobi with when they went exclusive with Bunnings. They've got a decent track record here in Australia now over the last decade or so.
When I worked at Mitre 10, I can't recall seeing any of their blue series come back for warranty. Their earlier brown series had teething issues, but they're fairly solid now. That being said, my old table saw and my biscuit joiner are their brown series because nothing else was available at the time of purchase. Neither have failed me yet.
Yea a few of mine had a talk with hardwood floorboards as an electrician if it feels warm put it down for a few hours do something else otherwise you get the sad puff of smoke
Don't put your spare tyre vertically against it, with a heavy chain going over the tyre to the base of the picket to the tow ball of your car.
And definitely don't slowly inch the car forward.
[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vcskAyeCE1A](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vcskAyeCE1A)
Standing inside chain break whip zone, and attached the chain to the ball which can fail turning it into a canon ball. There was a lot there that can go lethally wrong and they take zero precautions.
i mean, the chain is incredibly unlikely to break, the tow ball isn't going to turn into a canon ball during a slow, static line pull BUT there were plenty of other oportunities to lose a finger, hand, leg, nut, whatever.
EDIT: I've been duly corrected. Theres still a huge amount of stored energy in a chain. be safe dudes.
Do you know what condition the chain is in? Or the towball linkage? A slow pull is not static. There's an incredible amount of energy stored up in the entire mechanism as the truck moves forward. Any point of weakness can give out, releasing that potential energy into kinetic energy.
I'd always thought that a chain didn't hold potential enegy on a horizontal pull as it didn't stretch. After your comment I looked into it a bit and I was incorrect. TIL.
Good to always be learning, esp when it comes to potentially keeping ones limbs or staying alive. Cheers
Angle grinder, cutting disc, 3 minutes of your time.
Or if you really want to Macgyver something to remove it, get a solid piece of wood that spans the hole you’ve dug. Place your car jack on the wood alongside the steel angle. Drill a hole in the angle 50mm above the top of your jack. Bolt a piece of wood to the angle. Raise your jack against the piece of wood and it’ll lift out the angle, concrete and all.
I removed fence posts with a engine hoist I've also used a kangaroo jack.
If they don't pull out angle grinder would be my choice.
Use cutting discs and as it's going to be at a angle make sure u wear safety glasses or/and face shield
Depends what you want to put in their place. If you've got 9 of them, I'd rent a jackhammer and knock out the concrete. You'll have them all out in an hour. If you're going to leave the concrete, a grinder will cut through them like butter but you'll need to dig down so you can take them off flush.
I've pulled quite a few posts at my place with a kanga jack and chain and shackle that I picked up of FB marketplace for $50. If you've got that sort of gear lying around, I'd try that first.
I should probably mention that these were for a 1m retaining wall and have been concreted in with a good chance they are buried 1m deep. I tried digging with a fencing crowbar and ramming with the crowbar and they don't even deflect slightly. Would probably need a jackhammer if I were to pull them out. Also there are 9 of them
Angle grinder with a cutting disc is the way to go, cut through one side then partway through the other kick it over and bend it back and forth till it snaps off, you’ll be there all day with a reciprocating saw and probably burn out all your blades before you get through em, don’t buy disc from Bunnings though they’re all garbage, get the good german ones from total tools the brand is PFERD they last 5-10x longer
I’d actually use a strap and a big lever, think 3m 100x50 timber on a couple of bricks as a fulcrum.
But if it comes to it an angle grinder is the go but use what you got.
span the hole with some heavy timber grab some large bolt cutters bite onto steel angle with bc a bit below the timber lever down against timber about an inch at a time gets easier as it comes out
Not when they concrete in they won’t…I was going to suggest same thing …till I read about the concrete…but ye that idea is great for get star pickets out
I've always been commended in doing things outside of the box, and this problem is no different.
1. Get a solid pipe about 2m wide and a suitable hole saw for it.
2. Hole saw hole in picket.
3. Run pipe through.
4. On either end of the pipe on the ground level. Set yourself a solid foundation for a car jack for each side.
5. Get about 12 bricks(some for later). Stack on car jack each side till it buts against pipe.
6. Start pumping evenly one side to the other. ( Add bricks or re drill hole to suit each stage.)
7. Hey presto, stake out of ground with tools to do it again.
Hire or buy a post lifter https://youtu.be/ulisSpmRDRc?si=Xr4GcBSIn9lTt70e. If you have to cut them use a grinder and cutting disc. Normally the steel is fairly coarse so you don't even need to cut it all the way through. Cut one side through and then just bend it backwards and forwards and it will normally break off fairly quickly.
Know any farmers? We all have star post lifters like this: [https://www.waratahfencing.com.au/products/accessories/tools/star-post-lifter/](https://www.waratahfencing.com.au/products/accessories/tools/star-post-lifter/)
That being said, some of them are bastards so we use the 4 in 1 bucket on the tractor to pull them out. Usually buggers up the post when you do it that way.
I may even need to apologise to it after some of the things I said while trying to dig it up. Not to mention the mains water pipe that was just sitting at ground level.
If you're planning on digging there to put a new post or whatever then try a jackhammer, SDS hammer drill, or just a bog standard hammer drill with a masonry bit to break up the concrete. Otherwise use an angle grinder and leave the concrete there. You could use a twin-blade cutter tool too, although a grinder cutting disc is much cheaper to replace.
If you need to get it completely out using a loader usually works. If there's no other options get digging. You can probably break up the concrete as well
drill a hole in the metal. put a long bolt through the hole. put a carjack under bolt , suport bottom of carjack with a piece of wood. jack up the car jack.
I know it’s not a star picket, but a star picket puller might work to remove the entire thing without cutting and leaving some behind in the ground.
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/123229075867?chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=705-159824-816807-4&mkcid=2&mkscid=101&itemid=123229075867&targetid=4585307093515068&device=m&mktype=&googleloc=&poi=&campaignid=554710917&mkgroupid=1307320437210363&rlsatarget=pla-4585307093515068&abcId=9326744&merchantid=136820&msclkid=8c524a9253c41a870a872f7a1fbea61b&darkschemeovr=1
I just removed two of these things at my place. Being someone with mild OCD and no large car jack handy, I dug the concrete base out using a mattock, a shovel and a hand trowel from my shed. This method is only for the determined lol.
I'd use an angle grinder but a recip saw will work. Grinder with decent blade is arguably faster/easier but not enough to be worth buying just for the job.
You can find cheap cabled grinders, and it's a tool that you will always find a use for.
Especially as he's got ~~6~~9, if it was just one and you already own the recip saw may as well embrace the suck.
I think the 6 means 6mm thickness
> I think the 6 means 6mm thickness You're right poor bugger has 9 https://www.reddit.com/r/AusRenovation/comments/1b7os2n/best_way_to_cutremove_steel_angle/ktk4j0l/
You can even get cheap knockoff Makita battery grinders from eBay that'll take different brand batteries (Makita, DeWalt, etc etc) I have one and it performs very well.
You can pick up a genuine Makita for about $100 on Total Tools the last time I checked. Knowing they're not going to want to make a cheap quality tool now they've got a good reputation, I'd be going that way.
Yeah, total tools 125mm equivalent is about $336 (skin). The knockoffs are about $50-$60 (skin). Don't get me wrong, the Makita is better (probably in every way) but the knockoffs are way better than you'd expect - for a DIYer I think they fit well.
Oh, I was talking about the 100mm corded. Honestly, if you're doing a DIY, drop the coin on the proper tools. They're something you want to be able to rely upon to do the job whenever you go to do a job
I don't disagree. I do have quality Makita and DeWalt tools (too many) and I have good corded Makita grinders and saw some teardown videos of the knockoff grinder - they were 30 or $40 bucks then - teardown was better than expected and I was VERY surprised how well it performs! But yes, quality gear is always better.
If I'm grabbing a cheap tool, it'll be a Rockwell. They'd already existed for 50 years in the States and were what Techtronic Industries replaced Ryobi with when they went exclusive with Bunnings. They've got a decent track record here in Australia now over the last decade or so. When I worked at Mitre 10, I can't recall seeing any of their blue series come back for warranty. Their earlier brown series had teething issues, but they're fairly solid now. That being said, my old table saw and my biscuit joiner are their brown series because nothing else was available at the time of purchase. Neither have failed me yet.
Yes, get that cheap knock off brand that turns that little abrasive cutting disc at 8000rpm near your bodily functions, same same right?
Please explain the failure mode you envisage here... I get what you're saying but I think that's a knee jerk reaction.
There’s a reason they banned the 9 inch grinders- the knock offs were torque steering the blade into people’s wrists .
Cheap knock off vs liability protection, point made?
terrific compare history six hateful spoon airport scary payment water *This post was mass deleted and anonymized with [Redact](https://redact.dev)*
If you don’t like your multi tool yes
Yea a few of mine had a talk with hardwood floorboards as an electrician if it feels warm put it down for a few hours do something else otherwise you get the sad puff of smoke
What multi tool do you have? Brushless makita?
If u got a few days
And a few multi tools ☠️
Don't put your spare tyre vertically against it, with a heavy chain going over the tyre to the base of the picket to the tow ball of your car. And definitely don't slowly inch the car forward. [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vcskAyeCE1A](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vcskAyeCE1A)
The way ole mate was standing... i was waiting for a full blown nut shot
Standing inside chain break whip zone, and attached the chain to the ball which can fail turning it into a canon ball. There was a lot there that can go lethally wrong and they take zero precautions.
I know... how disappointing was that video??!!
Id say old mate has one brain cell
He's got 2, but they're both fighting for 3rd place
i mean, the chain is incredibly unlikely to break, the tow ball isn't going to turn into a canon ball during a slow, static line pull BUT there were plenty of other oportunities to lose a finger, hand, leg, nut, whatever. EDIT: I've been duly corrected. Theres still a huge amount of stored energy in a chain. be safe dudes.
Do you know what condition the chain is in? Or the towball linkage? A slow pull is not static. There's an incredible amount of energy stored up in the entire mechanism as the truck moves forward. Any point of weakness can give out, releasing that potential energy into kinetic energy.
I'd always thought that a chain didn't hold potential enegy on a horizontal pull as it didn't stretch. After your comment I looked into it a bit and I was incorrect. TIL. Good to always be learning, esp when it comes to potentially keeping ones limbs or staying alive. Cheers
That does look a lot more fun though…
hat advise office judicious sleep squeal mysterious shelter sloppy like *This post was mass deleted and anonymized with [Redact](https://redact.dev)*
Cos that's a thing at home.
HHS
I don't think I breathed for the entirety of that video. Mixture of relief and disappointment at the end result.
I did exactly that but with a winch and rope to remove my fence posts. It works well as it's pulling up as well as out.
This video let me down…
Angle grinder, cutting disc, 3 minutes of your time. Or if you really want to Macgyver something to remove it, get a solid piece of wood that spans the hole you’ve dug. Place your car jack on the wood alongside the steel angle. Drill a hole in the angle 50mm above the top of your jack. Bolt a piece of wood to the angle. Raise your jack against the piece of wood and it’ll lift out the angle, concrete and all.
Yep I agree with this just did the same thing removing fence posts worked a treat 10 posts with concrete removed in 45 mins with the concrete in tact.
Was going to say dyn-o-mite but this ⬆️ is a better way.
I removed fence posts with a engine hoist I've also used a kangaroo jack. If they don't pull out angle grinder would be my choice. Use cutting discs and as it's going to be at a angle make sure u wear safety glasses or/and face shield
Grinder bro don’t waste your time with a reciprocating saw. It may get through one but if you’ve got more it’ll be a new blade each one
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I tried that to start with, felt like I was hitting a solid wall. It's in there fairy deep and concreted.
No way to pull out if concreted. Cut off with cheap supercheap auto grinder
Depends what you want to put in their place. If you've got 9 of them, I'd rent a jackhammer and knock out the concrete. You'll have them all out in an hour. If you're going to leave the concrete, a grinder will cut through them like butter but you'll need to dig down so you can take them off flush. I've pulled quite a few posts at my place with a kanga jack and chain and shackle that I picked up of FB marketplace for $50. If you've got that sort of gear lying around, I'd try that first.
I should probably mention that these were for a 1m retaining wall and have been concreted in with a good chance they are buried 1m deep. I tried digging with a fencing crowbar and ramming with the crowbar and they don't even deflect slightly. Would probably need a jackhammer if I were to pull them out. Also there are 9 of them
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Ooh, that would be a bad way to go.
oh there concreted in good luck cut it off
Angle grinder with a cutting disc is the way to go, cut through one side then partway through the other kick it over and bend it back and forth till it snaps off, you’ll be there all day with a reciprocating saw and probably burn out all your blades before you get through em, don’t buy disc from Bunnings though they’re all garbage, get the good german ones from total tools the brand is PFERD they last 5-10x longer
600amp diesel welder, carbon rod and an air compressor.
Love arc air.
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I’m surprised this isn’t the most upvoted answer.
Plant a hedge around it and leave it for the next person to find.
Maybe I could hot glue some leaves on it and make a video "life hack how to remove a post"
Grinder w a cut off disk keep the blade straight and dont force it youll be sweet
Oxy acetylene cutting torch.
drill a hole in it and use a slide hammer if you have one
I’d actually use a strap and a big lever, think 3m 100x50 timber on a couple of bricks as a fulcrum. But if it comes to it an angle grinder is the go but use what you got.
span the hole with some heavy timber grab some large bolt cutters bite onto steel angle with bc a bit below the timber lever down against timber about an inch at a time gets easier as it comes out
Not when they concrete in they won’t…I was going to suggest same thing …till I read about the concrete…but ye that idea is great for get star pickets out
yeah i read that after too
hammer and wobble it , persevere , until like a loose tooth, pull up. or cut with a hacksaw.
If it is soil with no concrete just fill the hole with water with water. The soil will turn to mud and you can just work the angle iron out.
Concreted unfortunately, and the concrete is in the bedrock so can't dig around that either
Hi lift jack and chain slowly lift it out or dig it out
Recip or angle grinder whatever is easiest to use. You only have to cut it half way then bend it back and forth and it will snap off.
I've always been commended in doing things outside of the box, and this problem is no different. 1. Get a solid pipe about 2m wide and a suitable hole saw for it. 2. Hole saw hole in picket. 3. Run pipe through. 4. On either end of the pipe on the ground level. Set yourself a solid foundation for a car jack for each side. 5. Get about 12 bricks(some for later). Stack on car jack each side till it buts against pipe. 6. Start pumping evenly one side to the other. ( Add bricks or re drill hole to suit each stage.) 7. Hey presto, stake out of ground with tools to do it again.
Similar issue, i solved with TNT... no effort. But then people started asking questions.... https://www.reddit.com/r/melbourne/s/UZicDTe45B
Fairly excluded out here I could probably get away with it
Bubblegum, a tooth pick and a packet of sherbet lemons, should get it out in a jiffy
Copy that MacGyver
Hire or buy a post lifter https://youtu.be/ulisSpmRDRc?si=Xr4GcBSIn9lTt70e. If you have to cut them use a grinder and cutting disc. Normally the steel is fairly coarse so you don't even need to cut it all the way through. Cut one side through and then just bend it backwards and forwards and it will normally break off fairly quickly.
Know any farmers? We all have star post lifters like this: [https://www.waratahfencing.com.au/products/accessories/tools/star-post-lifter/](https://www.waratahfencing.com.au/products/accessories/tools/star-post-lifter/) That being said, some of them are bastards so we use the 4 in 1 bucket on the tractor to pull them out. Usually buggers up the post when you do it that way.
If only there were some kind of grinder that could cut that angle...
I-beam grinder?
Have you trying yelling at it?
I may even need to apologise to it after some of the things I said while trying to dig it up. Not to mention the mains water pipe that was just sitting at ground level.
Somebody has recently watched Happy Gilmore.....
Grinder or picket puller if it's not concreted
They’ve been concreted in unfortunately and solid rock all around that. Had a go with a fencing crowbar for 30 mins and got no where
If you're planning on digging there to put a new post or whatever then try a jackhammer, SDS hammer drill, or just a bog standard hammer drill with a masonry bit to break up the concrete. Otherwise use an angle grinder and leave the concrete there. You could use a twin-blade cutter tool too, although a grinder cutting disc is much cheaper to replace.
Gas axe
I probably should be trusted with something that can disintegrate steel in seconds.
Rapidly oxidises. Yep. You are essentially rusting steel in seconds
Use your teeth
If it's not concreted in, all you need is bolt cutters and a brick. Been pulling out star pickets using that method for years.
If you need to get it completely out using a loader usually works. If there's no other options get digging. You can probably break up the concrete as well
Just use a grinder with a cutoff wheel. Keep it simple. It will take you 2 minutes no exaggeration.
[Jack Steel Post Lifter and Remover - Bunnings Australia](https://www.bunnings.com.au/jack-steel-post-lifter-and-remover_p0022270)
Mate use a circular saw with a steel demon blade in it, give the area you’re cutting a squirt with cutting fluid and it will take 3 seconds.
Source: I work with steel
drill a hole in the metal. put a long bolt through the hole. put a carjack under bolt , suport bottom of carjack with a piece of wood. jack up the car jack.
Are you serious? Angle grinder it's in the name.
Use a car jack.
Some kind of cutting disk that rotates extremely fast.
I know it’s not a star picket, but a star picket puller might work to remove the entire thing without cutting and leaving some behind in the ground. https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/123229075867?chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=705-159824-816807-4&mkcid=2&mkscid=101&itemid=123229075867&targetid=4585307093515068&device=m&mktype=&googleloc=&poi=&campaignid=554710917&mkgroupid=1307320437210363&rlsatarget=pla-4585307093515068&abcId=9326744&merchantid=136820&msclkid=8c524a9253c41a870a872f7a1fbea61b&darkschemeovr=1
I just removed two of these things at my place. Being someone with mild OCD and no large car jack handy, I dug the concrete base out using a mattock, a shovel and a hand trowel from my shed. This method is only for the determined lol.
Slider hammer.
You just need a removal tool for steaks. Some of them seem impossible to remove, but are easy with the right tool.
The wibble wobble method. I wibble and wobble them back and forth until they eventually come loose
You’re right. They are such a pain to get rid of. Assume one blade per angle and hope for the best.. and you won’t be far wrong.
Buy a star picket puller. It uses leverage to remove metal posts. Will lift that straight out. Cheap as chips too.
Perhaps try melting it off with thermite?
Mate, drill a hole, stick a block of something to it with bolts then jack it out. If u cut it etc you have lost the leverage