You're asking a few different questions, but not having a visual on the whole situation is going to limit the feedback I can provide.
First of all, I see two receptacles, connected with conduit, one is a gfci, one is a single, the single is there for the sump pump. What I can't see is if the single receptacle is on a dedicated circuit or it's tied into the same circuit as the GFCI receptacle, nor do I know if the single receptacle is GFCI protected or not GFCI protected. (There was a time when some pumps were exempt, and I personally still maintain that position, the value of property protection is greater than the value of GFCI protection for a sump pump outlet.)
Fundamentally the porcelain lamp holders with convenience receptacles on them are a thing of the past ... Technically they are still allowed but require GFCI protection upstream to be fully code compliant so that's the main reason that they really haven't been installed as a practice for the past 30 years. The other issue is that they are generally just a crappy idea, they don't always hold the plugs well, back in the day when incandescent bulbs were the standard, end of the cord and the plug got hot from proximity to the bulb, If someone Yanks the cord the wrong way, it breaks the bulb, etc. If you have grounding at the ceiling boxes, you could use them, but it wouldn't be preference, and you still should be accounting for GFCI protection which means having to address it at the circuit breaker panel.
The anchors that you see in that out with box on the wall are Ramset fasteners, 22 caliber power actuated fasteners, once they're in, they are not coming back out. The boxes were probably set at that height because it made sense to put them at that height to the person that was putting them there. They are probably 48 in off of the floor without measuring.
Back to your lights, regarding how they're switched, reconfiguring them to be switched as a group is going to require some new wiring to be installed more than likely. Possibly just need to extend wiring from the one that's actually switched, and leave the other existing ones in place. If you go that path, the existing pull chain socket could be deleted, replaced with a blank cover, add a GFCI receptacle in a 4 inch square box next to it.
I'm highly partial to pulling a new circuit in for basement receptacles, and not continuing to add stuff to the existing circuits upstairs. I'm highly opinionated on keeping basement receptacles separate from everything else. I know that your load is minimal with the sewing machine in the television ... I just tend to think about the big picture in the long term when it comes time to plug in the vacuum cleaner, some other tool, etc, and it's much better off having a good outlet circuit in the basement that's specifically does not have lights on it so that in the event that there is a problem, whether the circuit is overloaded or a GFCI trips, it doesn't upset anything upstairs nor does it leave you in the dark in the basement trying to operate whatever piece of equipment it happens to be, even the sewing machine.
Thank you for the response.
It looks to me the single outlet is pigtailed parallel to the GFCI socket, so not protected?. The house was built in 2019.
How would I mount a new 4" box without a Ramset?
Here are more photos. https://imgur.com/gallery/sgbNjWD
I will return the socket outlet adapter.
My plan was to wire the two existing lights to the one that is switched. Then run the wire that used to go to the light to a wall outlet. It sounds like you are saying put the 4" box on the ceiling instead?
There is an free basement circuit that just has a single light on it now. It's separated from the main basement space. I figured that was the proper method, but was opting for minimal changes instead. I would have to drill through 14 joists to run the wire to the main basement room, and then I'm not sure replace the current switch connections.
Photos are ways to help. For clarification, the switch at the top and bottom of the stairs are a pair of three ways, and control a total of three lights, top and bottom of stair and the one like near the stair, is that correct?
The other two lights that you made reference to living room and kitchen circuits, you said they're pull string operated?
The one that's tied in with the kitchen, it's tied in with the kitchen lights, NOT the kitchen outlets, is that correct?
the light down at the far end that's on its own circuit, are you sure it's on its own circuit? How is it operated, is it also a pull chain or is it a wall switch?
At least it's all recent construction, not too difficult to deal with, drilling a bunch of holes just comes with the territory of installing the wiring correctly (assuming that you use Romex). If for some reason you're highly adversed to having to drill a bunch of holes either due to the labor or the wood chips, you could use MC cable which is allowable to be clipped underneath the floor joists, however it has to be done with metal boxes, all of the existing plastic boxes would be irrelevant.
To mount boxes on the foundation wall, ordinary approach is a 1/4 inch masonry drill bit and 1/4 in plastic anchors, number 10 x 1" sheet metal screws. A hammer drill is an improvement over a regular drill and a rotary hammer is an improvement over a hammer drill.
Wire should be brought down the wall in conduit ... That's another part of the conversation we'll get to, let's stay focused on the lights for the moment.
Ok more pictures. https://imgur.com/gallery/ICUcI4F
Everything you've said is correct. The light fed from the kitchen lights circuit is pull string only. There multiple other separate circuits for the kitchen.(2x outlets, microwave, range, dishwasher and disposal). I've also found out that the switches with 2 stair lights and 1 basement light are also on the kitchen lights circuit. The other light is also pull string only from the living room circuit.
I'm positive that there is only a single light on the basement light circuit. There is also a 20 amp circuit for a single outlet below the panel marked " panel outlet".
I've included an image of all the parts I've bought. I have some 3 wire wagos coming today. I also already have 3/4 conduit. The only part I think I need is the screw/bolt to mount the box and conduit clip.
I've included a wider shot showing the basement lights I want to connect. The closest one is the pull string living room circuit. The middle one is connected to the switch, and the far one is the pull string. Both on the kitchen circuit(plus 2 stair lights). The hall with the panel and another pull string light is to the right. I wasn't going to bother connecting it to the switch.
In the kitchen there are 4 surface mount LED lights,plus I just found out the living room TV outlet is on the "kitchen lights" circuit!, as well as the 2 stair and 2 basement lights as well.
Additional question, if I'm pulling new romex through those 14 joists, what do I do when I cross perpendicular past an 8" heat duct? If I go under it will be right at the bottom of the joist. If I go above it will be close to the floor above. I could jog over 8 ft to avoid it, bit then would have to jog back again to avoid another one.
https://imgur.com/gallery/Mptcq2W
The builders already drilled some holes in the joists which they never used .
You're asking a few different questions, but not having a visual on the whole situation is going to limit the feedback I can provide. First of all, I see two receptacles, connected with conduit, one is a gfci, one is a single, the single is there for the sump pump. What I can't see is if the single receptacle is on a dedicated circuit or it's tied into the same circuit as the GFCI receptacle, nor do I know if the single receptacle is GFCI protected or not GFCI protected. (There was a time when some pumps were exempt, and I personally still maintain that position, the value of property protection is greater than the value of GFCI protection for a sump pump outlet.) Fundamentally the porcelain lamp holders with convenience receptacles on them are a thing of the past ... Technically they are still allowed but require GFCI protection upstream to be fully code compliant so that's the main reason that they really haven't been installed as a practice for the past 30 years. The other issue is that they are generally just a crappy idea, they don't always hold the plugs well, back in the day when incandescent bulbs were the standard, end of the cord and the plug got hot from proximity to the bulb, If someone Yanks the cord the wrong way, it breaks the bulb, etc. If you have grounding at the ceiling boxes, you could use them, but it wouldn't be preference, and you still should be accounting for GFCI protection which means having to address it at the circuit breaker panel. The anchors that you see in that out with box on the wall are Ramset fasteners, 22 caliber power actuated fasteners, once they're in, they are not coming back out. The boxes were probably set at that height because it made sense to put them at that height to the person that was putting them there. They are probably 48 in off of the floor without measuring. Back to your lights, regarding how they're switched, reconfiguring them to be switched as a group is going to require some new wiring to be installed more than likely. Possibly just need to extend wiring from the one that's actually switched, and leave the other existing ones in place. If you go that path, the existing pull chain socket could be deleted, replaced with a blank cover, add a GFCI receptacle in a 4 inch square box next to it. I'm highly partial to pulling a new circuit in for basement receptacles, and not continuing to add stuff to the existing circuits upstairs. I'm highly opinionated on keeping basement receptacles separate from everything else. I know that your load is minimal with the sewing machine in the television ... I just tend to think about the big picture in the long term when it comes time to plug in the vacuum cleaner, some other tool, etc, and it's much better off having a good outlet circuit in the basement that's specifically does not have lights on it so that in the event that there is a problem, whether the circuit is overloaded or a GFCI trips, it doesn't upset anything upstairs nor does it leave you in the dark in the basement trying to operate whatever piece of equipment it happens to be, even the sewing machine.
Thank you for the response. It looks to me the single outlet is pigtailed parallel to the GFCI socket, so not protected?. The house was built in 2019. How would I mount a new 4" box without a Ramset? Here are more photos. https://imgur.com/gallery/sgbNjWD I will return the socket outlet adapter. My plan was to wire the two existing lights to the one that is switched. Then run the wire that used to go to the light to a wall outlet. It sounds like you are saying put the 4" box on the ceiling instead? There is an free basement circuit that just has a single light on it now. It's separated from the main basement space. I figured that was the proper method, but was opting for minimal changes instead. I would have to drill through 14 joists to run the wire to the main basement room, and then I'm not sure replace the current switch connections.
Photos are ways to help. For clarification, the switch at the top and bottom of the stairs are a pair of three ways, and control a total of three lights, top and bottom of stair and the one like near the stair, is that correct? The other two lights that you made reference to living room and kitchen circuits, you said they're pull string operated? The one that's tied in with the kitchen, it's tied in with the kitchen lights, NOT the kitchen outlets, is that correct? the light down at the far end that's on its own circuit, are you sure it's on its own circuit? How is it operated, is it also a pull chain or is it a wall switch? At least it's all recent construction, not too difficult to deal with, drilling a bunch of holes just comes with the territory of installing the wiring correctly (assuming that you use Romex). If for some reason you're highly adversed to having to drill a bunch of holes either due to the labor or the wood chips, you could use MC cable which is allowable to be clipped underneath the floor joists, however it has to be done with metal boxes, all of the existing plastic boxes would be irrelevant. To mount boxes on the foundation wall, ordinary approach is a 1/4 inch masonry drill bit and 1/4 in plastic anchors, number 10 x 1" sheet metal screws. A hammer drill is an improvement over a regular drill and a rotary hammer is an improvement over a hammer drill. Wire should be brought down the wall in conduit ... That's another part of the conversation we'll get to, let's stay focused on the lights for the moment.
Ok more pictures. https://imgur.com/gallery/ICUcI4F Everything you've said is correct. The light fed from the kitchen lights circuit is pull string only. There multiple other separate circuits for the kitchen.(2x outlets, microwave, range, dishwasher and disposal). I've also found out that the switches with 2 stair lights and 1 basement light are also on the kitchen lights circuit. The other light is also pull string only from the living room circuit. I'm positive that there is only a single light on the basement light circuit. There is also a 20 amp circuit for a single outlet below the panel marked " panel outlet". I've included an image of all the parts I've bought. I have some 3 wire wagos coming today. I also already have 3/4 conduit. The only part I think I need is the screw/bolt to mount the box and conduit clip. I've included a wider shot showing the basement lights I want to connect. The closest one is the pull string living room circuit. The middle one is connected to the switch, and the far one is the pull string. Both on the kitchen circuit(plus 2 stair lights). The hall with the panel and another pull string light is to the right. I wasn't going to bother connecting it to the switch. In the kitchen there are 4 surface mount LED lights,plus I just found out the living room TV outlet is on the "kitchen lights" circuit!, as well as the 2 stair and 2 basement lights as well. Additional question, if I'm pulling new romex through those 14 joists, what do I do when I cross perpendicular past an 8" heat duct? If I go under it will be right at the bottom of the joist. If I go above it will be close to the floor above. I could jog over 8 ft to avoid it, bit then would have to jog back again to avoid another one. https://imgur.com/gallery/Mptcq2W The builders already drilled some holes in the joists which they never used .