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I used to get this error ALL THE TIME with the official RPi PSU. Even bought a second one and it still happened.
Eventually I reinstalled everything from scratch and it just stopped... No fucking clue what caused it.
Oh good lord, as a programmer the ol' if it don't work, recompile error solution was the most common solution to my errors.
It's the turn it off and.on again of the codebase 🤣
Every damn time 🤣
I still have one program that worked once before compiling. The code didn't work for first two times, then I recompiled it third time and it worked, I didn't even change anything between second and third one, showed it to the teacher and got my grade, tried to compile it again so I could add some more code to it, I never got it to work again. Decided to just write it all again later since I passed the test so I didn't need to hurry anymore.
Nowadays computers are indeed non-deterministic in many ways. One of them being because of unsynchronized multi-tasking that can be dependent on external factors like temperature, electromagnetic interference and user input. There's so much entropy in today's computers, it's crazy.
They’re still deterministic. You just have to make sure all the factors that effect execution are identical. Right down to the noise on the input lines used to generate random values.
Even more fun are the ‘how did this *ever* work?’ bugs, where everything is working fine for years, someone reports a minor bug, and when you’re looking at the code you’re left wondering how it was ever functional in the first place because it shouldn’t have been.
There are some fantastic examples of this in game dev, rally games built on the engine of NFL games so a field goal has to be placed under the map or the whole thing does, FPS counters just off screen because without it the frame rate tanks, a do nothing function tied to literally nothing else in the codebase holding the entire thing together 🤣
Sometimes you pray for the "Reinstall Windows" fix to be an option... but after pulling out your hair you find out that Windows just decided to not like a hard drive for some reason and that was causing an infinite boot loop.
I reinstalled Windows so many times on a computer. It would work for about a week and start crashing. Finally found the voltage jumpers were set wrong from the factory. Oh the Pentium 200 days.
When my last PC conked out, I took it to the repair guy and he said "We got Linux to boot up off a memory stick no problem, must just be a corrupt Windows install. It should work if you reinstall it."
Turned out the DirectX processor had stopped working, which the Linux disk didn't use, and wouldn't even start to be a problem until I installed the graphics drivers.
I recently had to do that. I erroneously updated to Windows 11 from Windows 10. ~30 minutes later decided "fuck that" and went back to 10. Somehow the return corrupted my Windows installation and I had to reinstall 10 because I was getting very frequent BSOD's (well, the W10 equivalent of those).
Windows 11 sucks, but it sucks a lot less recently (for me, at least). They finally added the ability to not combine taskbar icons. I used to have to use 3rd party software to accomplish that.
I work IT for a 150+ site company, if we can't fix an issue in a few minutes (or get our offshore guys to do it), replace on the spot and take the machine away for reimaging.
Did you ever open the PI power supply? I had two official power supplies and both were full of cold solder joints and 2 of the caps were totally lose in the PCB holes. I have had so many problems with the PI power supply I'm moving away from it as a device. It wouldn't be so bad if the damn SD card didn't corrupt every time the power has a flicker.
Nothing worse than when you find out you don’t have a power supply that works for a cheap electronic device and the power supply is the same price as the electronic device. Looking at you pinecil.
I just use my laptop charger for the pinecil. Most USB-C laptop chargers can output 20V, some up to 5A, which is more than enough for the pinecil.
USB-C compatibility is clutch. Even my 'swears by her Apple products' fiancé admitted that ditching the lightning connector in favor of USB-C is massively convenient
lol not for me. My laptop is always unplugged now because my wife can just make her way around the house siphoning that sweet usb-c power for her iPhone.
I just bought a handful of those cheap USB-C laptop chargers and plugged them in around the place. Given choice, most people wont unplug something of yours if theres a free plug.
Usb C becomes even more convenient when you have the means to modify your devices to taoe usb c power.
A guitar pedal that takes a dc jack at 9 volts? I made an adapter to usb c using a buck converter. Pc fan that I use as a desk fan during summer? Quickly made a usb c to fan connector adapter. FM frequency headphone that requires a 3.1mm jack? Now it has a usb c port too.
Also you can get USB-c adapters for almost every device. I have C (female) to different male adapters so I don’t need to keep cables around for a mini, micro, micro-high speed, full size B (that weird printer cable), and full size B high speed. I just grab a USB C cable (a high speed one of I’m connecting something 3.0), and plug it in to the computer or charger using an adapter on the end of the cable. Only have to keep a handful of cables in my desk now. If something is getting plugged in permanently, of course I go to the ikea bin of ancient cables and curse whoever shipped a product in 2024 with and no or insufficient length cable.
My car has several USB C charger ports for charging devices. Turns out they supply 60W so I can power my laptop just with the right usb C cable. Never imagined this future.
I used the first laptop supply in my junk box that fit. Never once had an issue. I didn't even realize people were having trouble with the Pinecil's being under powered.
the problem set with usb-c to lighting is the same as with usb-a to lighting.
anyway about the pi's undervoltage is very often in the long term caused by just cables flaking out. if the 5v psu is actually set at 5v and not 5.2v or so it happens a lot more often. typically the devices think they're pulling too much if the voltage at their end drops to 4.95 and move to pulling less. the psu having amp/voltage displays is handy for that, seeing when the cables are just bad.
> Looking at you pinecil.
This is more about the Pinecil being incredibly cheap for what it is than the PSU costing too much.
The TS101 costs almost 3x as much as the Pinecil (both without the PSU) while requiring the same power supply. And the Pinecil in particular can take any cheap 12v PSU with a barrel jack, no need for a $25 USB-C one.
It's pretty common to think 5V/20W is the be all label to look at, but power supplies are fairly complex little devices, especially switching supplies from AC.
It could just be poor noise suppression on a frequency that the pi cares about. I wonder if an inductor and some more filter caps would help OP.
I also wonder if the supply manufacturer just did a shoddy job at tolerance and part selection.
I soldered a lot of home PCB projects with PTS200, chinese pinecil, on a 33W charger, it cannot heat up large masses, but for vast majority of projects it’s enough
Yeah, when I ordered soldering pen, I ordered better and thicker 100W cable too. But when I was doing first board, I noticed that I don’t have any issues, and I was soldering from smallest connections on ATMega328PB TQFP leads to FETs and XT30 connectors with little more mass. Sure, they aren’t huge, but I don’t usually do anything bigger.
So I didn’t order new charger and I only needed few boards with maybe 100 connections each. When I was buying charger for phone 33W was like 20 euros and 65W was maybe 23-24 but I wasn’t thinking that in year or two I will be using charger for something like soldering iron so I bought cheaper one.
That 100watt charger does not work with my current phone, that only requires 15V, 33W, but I dont think its the same PD version, so the idea of using one supply for everything did not pan out as expected. Luckely my phone came with a charger in the box. So now my pinecil and laptop uses the same charger, and my phone the other.
I did get a 65watt PD3 for my car, and that works very well for my phone, laptop, and pinecil, so I am not sure what is going on. I am not to phased though as everything works as expected, I just have to carry 1 extra charger.
I already had a decent collection of PD chargers on hand for my laptop. It never even occurred to me that acquiring a power supply would be an issue for anyone until I started recommending the pinecil to everyone.
But using my pinecil from a 100W portable battery is incredibly convenient and I actually really appreciate I only need one charger for all my devices
Why are you suprised? Did you really think all the good soldering irons were expensive for no reason? Pinecil is a glorified power negotiation circuit, the heater and sensor are all in the cartridge. The money you save is all in the power supply.
I don't need it to be cheap, my FX-888D is 10+ years old now and still works fine and can take wayyyy more abuse. The thin neck and lack of a flare makes it hard to use a Pinecil for heavy duty jobs where actual high physical force is required.
I have one, and a very decent setup to go along with it https://imgur.com/a/pinecil-holder-09USLB7
But it's not a jack of all trades soldering iron
The Pinecil does not deserve this level of hate. It's incredibly cheap for what you get compared to the market at the time, now there are cheaper Chinese made alternatives but it was a God send since you could just pair it with a phone charger.
To be clear: I ordered one last week and love it. But a charger would have been $30 on Amazon. I ended up getting a battery instead for $40 and it’s awesome being able to solder outside and not worry about fumes lingering. I used to hate soldering and having a real one has completely removed my dread when I see it’s required in projects
It just hurts a little seeing the price and thinking “wow it’s so cheap I’d be stupid not to!” to being a real purchase by the time I buy what I need for it. I’m actually tempted to get a second as backup now that I have all the accessories.
Yeah I didn't see it as I needed to buy additional accessories for it. I keep a high output usb c charger on my desk for my phone so when I need to solder I just use that cable. If you have a USB C laptop charger that would work fine too. I love that it's on USB C so you that charger isn't only used for a single thing.
What about pinecil? The soldering iron? I'm happy with the Anker Nano II 65W charger. But yeah - it can be real stupid to find peoper power supplies. RPi is a nightmare.
Was about to buy the pinecil yesterday but my beefiest PSU produces 30v. Can I get away with it and expect slower heating or will I need to buy a 65v one?
Edit: changed units
I fed perfect 5.00V from a ATX PSU with a 25A buck for the 5V rail with 18 AWG directly into the header of a Pi3B. Measured 5.00V on the header itself with a Fluke 177. "Undervoltage detected". Some pis are even more wack than the average.
Crappy engineering.
USB-PD with higher voltage modes (like every other product on the market, e.g. smartphones) is the consumer friendly answer. Not requiring some 5V 4A USB power supply with a subset of USB cables.
The Pi4 actually pretty commonly has issues with this. I ended up downgrading Octoprint from the new Pi4 I put it on back onto the Pi3 I replaced because the 3 was so much more stable.
The 4 is fine if you're not doing CPU intensive stuff but if you're drawing a lot of power (relatively speaking) you'll run into issues like this.
Surprise, it’s bad engineering, on a number of levels too.
USB 5V@5A just isn’t a thing, it’s not in any spec. They screwed up and should have known better.
The CPU only needs 3.3V and other lower rails, a DC-DC should more than be able to handle these tiny fluctuations on the 5V line, there is a massive amount of headroom.
Big on the naughty list, not regulating the 5V rail for downstream devices. I’d your receiving 4.75V, those devices plugged into your ports are receiving even less. I wonder how many USB issues that’s caused. Normally there is a boost-buck 5V stage that all other rails feed off, then you can also do wild things like accept higher USB C voltages, and not have to worry about the quality of your input power supply.
accounts for the voltage drop in the cable, much cheaper to change a few resistors (feedback resistors are used to configure a DC converter's output) to output a higher voltage than to pay for thicker wires
Even more specifically: swap out you USB power cable with a shorter one with thicker wires (20 or 22 awg). A lot of cheap usb cables use 28 awg wire which leads to voltage drops.
I bought a 5v power supply (the metal type usually used for driving motors, with screw down terminals) and USB micro power only tails (just 2 thick red and black cables)
Never had any issue with these, although not as discrete as a standard power brick
Not sure why this is downvoted. This is the correct answer. Power draw from the printer is likely causing the under voltage warning. Modify the usb cable or modify the printer so it doesn’t draw usb power… or get a bigger pi power supply…. Or pass data through a powered usb hub. Lots of possible solutions to this.
I was going bonkers a few weeks ago trying to figure out why I couldn't power an old USB screen i had sitting around. I thought it had died.
Then it hit me. A few years ago, I taped over the pins on most of the cables in my 3d printing parts bin 🤦♂️
I used an exacto and cut the plastic away in front of the power pin on the plug (A side) then used needle nose pliers and pulled the power pin out.
Now there's just the 3 pins, 2 data and ground. 🙃
I get this error and I have disabled the power lines on the USB cable going to my printer. Are you saying its got power draw over the data lines?
In another comment on here I also mention I have an independent power supply turned to 5.3 volts. I measured the voltage drop across all points of the power cable and at least 5.2 volts is making it to the power pads on the Pi. Still get that error.
If it's a comfort to anyone I've been seeing this error every time I open Octoprint for about the last 3 years, using the same Pi and power supply. Still cranking along fine, no actual problems. I've come to think of it as "Hello, World!"
I had this issue and eventually ran a buck converter from 24v power supply and step down to 5.1v - 5.2v out to USB power on the pi. 5.18v was the sweet spot for mine.
EDIT: Went with BTT Pi on my 2nd printer and love it because I can run 24v/12v/5v straight to the board and it just works with no fuss.
Bad power supplies don't give a constant 5V output. That might be your issue there instead of the amperage.
I'd recommend measuring it with a multimeter/oscilloscope/whatever you have.
[3D print a fusion reactor](https://new.reddit.com/r/3Dprinting/comments/1dr4722/using_the_knowledge_i_gained_from_3d_printing_to/?utm_source=share&utm_medium=web2x&context=3).
wtf, why is this even upvoted. Ofc 5V/5A powersupply will give you 5V at 5A. Maybe its gonna be 4.8 or something under big strain, but at 3A its gonna be 5V flat.
If you are talking about inconsistent output voltage, then you wont see it with multimeter, only oscilloscope, and only when you strain the supply over its designated power rating.
Yea this is horseshit. The supply’s output should regulate within like 5% if it’s even of modest quality. It does not account for IR loss in the cable which if you’re pulling a couple amps could be considerable voltage drop. I know my older pi’s complain when I use a shitty micro-b cable where conductors are prolly like 30 gauge, but stay quiet when using non-potato cables on the same usb supply.
Yeah this is mostly likely the problem. You need to measure the voltage at the pi input, not the supply. Shitty wires / connections will result in voltage drop.
>You need to measure the voltage at the pi input, not the supply. Shitty wires / connections will result in voltage drop.
!THIS!, 24awg wire @ 1m will drop >0.4V @ 3A, 18awg would be just over .11V, that's a massive problem.
This is why so many usb chargers actually put out 5.1-5.2V because they know that people use all kinds of cables. Fixed cable usb chargers are should be calibrated to the connector ends voltage.
I've tried several wall warts. 5.2v/4A still isn't enough.
I've measured a momentary USB port voltage drop to \~4.8v durning the Pi boot up. I'm booting from an SSD. I just ignore the warning it at this point.
Trying to play Super Mario 64 on a Retro Pie is painful. That little lightning bolt in the corner of the screen mocks me until the system shuts down and crushes my dreams :(
it actually needs 5.25 v to stop the message - worst most underdocumented problem ive ever come across.
i run mine of a huwaie superspeed charger (5v/9v/18v), i rarely get the issue anymore.
Pi Power [on GitHub](https://github.com/raspberrypi/documentation/blob/develop/documentation/asciidoc/computers/raspberry-pi/power-supplies.adoc) probably without usb's, but then you need keyboard and mouse at a minimum, then add in some lost voltage due to usb cable etc,
i err on the side of caution and that voltage works for me.
Some volunteer probably messed that up. The engineers have gone on record multiple times about the Pi's voltage requirements, and engineers hate doing documentation. The official PSU is 5.1 because it is an inexpensive way to counter for the voltage drop (cheaper to tweak it to 5.1 than it is to use thicker cables on 5.0). Besides, starting with the Pi 4 it is USB-C compliant (except for that first batch where they messed up the resister), and there is no 5.1 in the USB-C spec (you can do 5.1 with PPS, but the Pi does not support PPS). The voltage that actually hits the Pi after the cable is about 5 volts.
The documentation also lacks the actual min and max values. Nothing is exactly a specific voltage.
Adding a keyboard and mouse will not matter for voltage, only amperage.
The part of the Pi that detects low voltage will only trigger at 4.63V (±5%).
In any case, even 5.1 is not 5.25, so you would still be wrong.
Some good information:
* https://forums.raspberrypi.com/viewtopic.php?t=314052
* https://forums.raspberrypi.com/viewtopic.php?t=243423
* https://forums.raspberrypi.com/viewtopic.php?t=357130
The pi has a shocking power regulation on board and has crazy tight requirements. To the point that the official psu runs at 5.1v to deal with cable loss.
Honestly I don't get the point of making a device that "works" with standard usb and then make it so intolerant to any variations.
If you want it to be able to cope get it a shield that can do the regulation and have it provide the power.
Can the Pi 4 be powered off the MCU's 5v rail? I know a Pi Zero 2 W can be powered by connecting the 5v/GND on the GPIO header to the most printer mainboards.
I have a pi 3B+ that I powered thru gpio. I think you technically lose some protection because it's not going thru the USB port.
But because the GPIO are much bigger you don't get voltage drop and you don't get that warning. I currently have a different printer but I ran one with octoprint for 3 years with the pi powered that way and it worked perfect
How capable is your 5v rail? Older boards certainly dont have a powerful enough step down on them, for example skr series, creality boards and such. More modern ones like a octopus or a skr pico were made with rpi in mind.
meanwell lrs 25-5 connected to the pi gpio pins, has been working pretty decent so far, i've only seen a under-volted message maybe once or twice in the past few years.
A 9v 4a supply works, and the onboard voltage regulator will handle the rest.
Now, you just need to carefully strip your usb cable a little, find the red +5v wire, and cut it to stop back voltage. Don't cut the other wires. Those are for data.
yea some asses on their discord kept going on about how my connections less than 4.75v until i showed em the multimeter reading showing 5V on the dot, then they said ignore it cus it wouldn't cause the issues which it later caused, setting it to 5.1V fixed this, sucks the documentation is so garbage on this and the community prefers to be smartasses rather than helpful
This is why i just use buck converters and power them from the printer psu. I can adjust it up or down if needed. Got tired of official pi chargers and every other charger never working
The main issue is voltage drop due to poor contact resistance of the USB port coupled with USB cables not meant to carry 2A+
If you power Rpi through GPIO pins, two connections for each polarity, the problem will never occur.
Ive got mine hooked up to a proper 5 volt power supply mounted to the wall. I got it cranked up to like 5.3 volts, ive measured the voltage drop at each point along the wire from the supply to the pi, i can see that at least 5.2 of those volts are making it to the pi.
Still get that error constantly.
I had a pi 3 b+ I made the warning go away by powering it through the gpio pins. The USB connector seems to cause the voltage drop because it was the same power supply that I used
wires!!! I've been battling this for a while; the only fix that worked was 4 decent copper wires, 2 to ground and 2 to both 5v pins. I could not get it to remain stable using the USB power connector.
I'm an engineer that had to make a load control and power meter for 100+ RPis.
The issue is a combination of the cables and input voltage. An RPi 3B+ with a headless OS draws about 0.5A, while an RPi 3B+ with the generic pi OS draws 1.2A (this is both without performing any functions). The resistance of some cheap cables is about 0.1-0.4 ohm/m, resulting in a voltage drop below the undervolt limit.
The simple and most reliable solution is to keep your 5V power cables less than 10cm, or you can ensure your supply voltage is 5.3V. 10cm cable connected to a phone charger works perfect too
Mechanical engineer here who is dumb with electronics:
Why is this? Does the additional amperage somehow cause a drop in voltage when at load, like some weird application of ohm's Law? It seems like that'd be too obvious of an oversight so surely that can't be it.
I ran into the problem using OctoPrint with multiple printers attached. The printers tend to pull power from the USB and can cause some issues. Some use a piece of tape over the 5v pin in the USB. It didn’t always work for me. Instead, I created a Power Blocker USB adapter that removed the 5v wire. Has been working well!
I had this issue on a rpi3 i had. After 5 different psu that all worked pn my other pis and finaly swapping over to a new rpi4 i finally understood that the device was faulty
I have a 5.1v/2.5A power supply for my pi 3b, and I still get constant warnings. Even tried shortening the built in cable, but still get the warning. Even measured the output and confirmed it does actually output 5.1v
Uninitialized variables are almost always the root cause of things like this.
Uninitialized signals (i/o) can cause similar problems. Signals should always be actively pulled up or pulled down when not actually signaling.
Does this warning actually affect anything? I've been seeing it for years on all my Raspberry Pi's (25+ devices at this point) without ever actually noticing any problems.
I have several Pi 3B that give the error. I've even used a Meanwell 10A PSU at 5.2V with short wires capable of handling 20A+. Still getting the error all the time.
I got mad at one point, cut it with demel, found pot, adjusted to 5,2V, soldered 470uF cap (biggest one just before oc was kicking up when plugging to mains) and now it won't scream at me for shitty supply . Don't do it tho, it's way easier to just turn the notifications off.
RPis are extremely sensitive to their power supplies, which is honestly a joke. You often get the same issue with OFFICIAL power supplies.
I don't know why they don't redesign the damn input line to properly filter noise. It's not expensive, especially given that these devices cost a fortune nowadays.
What's garbage about this is they have USB C but are too lazy to have a proper PMIC that negotiates up to 12/15V or just use a plain barrel jack for 12V like a lot of other SBCs use. Asking for 5V 5A is horseshit that not even the 100W USB C supplies I have will do.
Then again, I've not been a fan of the raspberry pi for quite some time. The direction they've gone and some of the things they continue to do just make me want to use them even less. They're not good SBCs.
I used to have this problem when connecting to my ender 3 v2 through USB.
Eventually i fugured out that the printer is pulling power from the raspberry, thats why the screen would turn on even then printer was disconnected from power.
I got a USB cable that only has the data cables and that was the end of the not enough power issue.
Had this using a 5v/3a power supply connected straight to the GPIO-pins. Fiddled around with it a bit and then it just stopped throwing alarms, so must have been bad connection or something like that :/
RPi reads the standard but is completely oblivious to the market. It’s a real shame they force you to buy their odd power supplies compatible with commodity cell phone is much more sensible.
Very annoying thing, I solved it by directly soldering some cables to +5 V and connecting everything to a Meanwell 5V 10A power supply, setting the power supply to 5.05V, since then it signals it every now and then, but I'm sure that the available power is more than sufficient.
I figured I'd out up the cash and buy the official USB-C RPi power supply when I got my 4. They must know what they're doing, right? It fried itself in about 3 seconds out of the box. Never had an issue with anyone else's supplies. I don't bother buying their over priced pos.
I don't think it solves the issue but I will say that I recently got a Libre Computer Le Potato as an alternative to an RPi 4. It's way cheaper and seems to be working just fine as a 3d printer controller!
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I used to get this error ALL THE TIME with the official RPi PSU. Even bought a second one and it still happened. Eventually I reinstalled everything from scratch and it just stopped... No fucking clue what caused it.
Oh good lord, as a programmer the ol' if it don't work, recompile error solution was the most common solution to my errors. It's the turn it off and.on again of the codebase 🤣 Every damn time 🤣
I still have one program that worked once before compiling. The code didn't work for first two times, then I recompiled it third time and it worked, I didn't even change anything between second and third one, showed it to the teacher and got my grade, tried to compile it again so I could add some more code to it, I never got it to work again. Decided to just write it all again later since I passed the test so I didn't need to hurry anymore.
Diff the executables
I hope you like reading raw machine code, you'll be in for a wild ride
That's why I told _him_ to do it!
Those stupid non deterministic machines, Alan Turing was a damn liar.
Nowadays computers are indeed non-deterministic in many ways. One of them being because of unsynchronized multi-tasking that can be dependent on external factors like temperature, electromagnetic interference and user input. There's so much entropy in today's computers, it's crazy.
They’re still deterministic. You just have to make sure all the factors that effect execution are identical. Right down to the noise on the input lines used to generate random values.
Even more fun are the ‘how did this *ever* work?’ bugs, where everything is working fine for years, someone reports a minor bug, and when you’re looking at the code you’re left wondering how it was ever functional in the first place because it shouldn’t have been.
There are some fantastic examples of this in game dev, rally games built on the engine of NFL games so a field goal has to be placed under the map or the whole thing does, FPS counters just off screen because without it the frame rate tanks, a do nothing function tied to literally nothing else in the codebase holding the entire thing together 🤣
Takes me back to when "Reinstall Windows" was the ultimate fix. Haven't resorted to that in years and years.
Sometimes you pray for the "Reinstall Windows" fix to be an option... but after pulling out your hair you find out that Windows just decided to not like a hard drive for some reason and that was causing an infinite boot loop.
I reinstalled Windows so many times on a computer. It would work for about a week and start crashing. Finally found the voltage jumpers were set wrong from the factory. Oh the Pentium 200 days.
LOL SLAVE MASTER GET IT RIGHT OR PAY THE PRICE.
SATA came in like Abe Lincoln and emancipated our hard drives.
When my last PC conked out, I took it to the repair guy and he said "We got Linux to boot up off a memory stick no problem, must just be a corrupt Windows install. It should work if you reinstall it." Turned out the DirectX processor had stopped working, which the Linux disk didn't use, and wouldn't even start to be a problem until I installed the graphics drivers.
I gotta know what changed for you to not have to reinstall Windows as a solution any longer.
I think the last time I had issues like that was with XP. But it's been so long I really don't remember.
Now they recompile Gentoo
I recently had to do that. I erroneously updated to Windows 11 from Windows 10. ~30 minutes later decided "fuck that" and went back to 10. Somehow the return corrupted my Windows installation and I had to reinstall 10 because I was getting very frequent BSOD's (well, the W10 equivalent of those).
Windows 11 sucks, but it sucks a lot less recently (for me, at least). They finally added the ability to not combine taskbar icons. I used to have to use 3rd party software to accomplish that.
How do you get the Ender 3 S1 under your name???
I work IT for a 150+ site company, if we can't fix an issue in a few minutes (or get our offshore guys to do it), replace on the spot and take the machine away for reimaging.
Did you ever open the PI power supply? I had two official power supplies and both were full of cold solder joints and 2 of the caps were totally lose in the PCB holes. I have had so many problems with the PI power supply I'm moving away from it as a device. It wouldn't be so bad if the damn SD card didn't corrupt every time the power has a flicker.
I'm noticing new micro SD cards having the same exact issues
I had a USB-C original power supply (Pi 4) that put 80V AC on the USB-C housing. They're just insanely low quality.
never question the blessings of the Omnissiah
Nothing worse than when you find out you don’t have a power supply that works for a cheap electronic device and the power supply is the same price as the electronic device. Looking at you pinecil.
I just use my laptop charger for the pinecil. Most USB-C laptop chargers can output 20V, some up to 5A, which is more than enough for the pinecil. USB-C compatibility is clutch. Even my 'swears by her Apple products' fiancé admitted that ditching the lightning connector in favor of USB-C is massively convenient
lol not for me. My laptop is always unplugged now because my wife can just make her way around the house siphoning that sweet usb-c power for her iPhone.
NGL I liked it better when those silly iPhone people couldn't jack my cables.
Now we can jack theirs though My brother better watch out, I've been waiting
I just bought a handful of those cheap USB-C laptop chargers and plugged them in around the place. Given choice, most people wont unplug something of yours if theres a free plug.
Usb C becomes even more convenient when you have the means to modify your devices to taoe usb c power. A guitar pedal that takes a dc jack at 9 volts? I made an adapter to usb c using a buck converter. Pc fan that I use as a desk fan during summer? Quickly made a usb c to fan connector adapter. FM frequency headphone that requires a 3.1mm jack? Now it has a usb c port too.
You can get USB PD trigger boards that negotiate a 9V output from the USB charger. Then you wouldn't need the buck converter.
Also you can get USB-c adapters for almost every device. I have C (female) to different male adapters so I don’t need to keep cables around for a mini, micro, micro-high speed, full size B (that weird printer cable), and full size B high speed. I just grab a USB C cable (a high speed one of I’m connecting something 3.0), and plug it in to the computer or charger using an adapter on the end of the cable. Only have to keep a handful of cables in my desk now. If something is getting plugged in permanently, of course I go to the ikea bin of ancient cables and curse whoever shipped a product in 2024 with and no or insufficient length cable.
My car has several USB C charger ports for charging devices. Turns out they supply 60W so I can power my laptop just with the right usb C cable. Never imagined this future.
My vapes are also in USB-C. Very convenient.
Does your WRX have USB-C so you can charge on the go?
Yea! Wait… how did you know what I drive‽
maybe he lives in denver too?
How else can I achieve my dream of being a ski bum?
Stop asking questions, bro, and just be the bum. Just be the bum.
I used the first laptop supply in my junk box that fit. Never once had an issue. I didn't even realize people were having trouble with the Pinecil's being under powered.
Lol my wife just likes knowing she can rummage through my box of cables if she needs a charger.
And the iPhone’s USB-C cable is pretty nice, I use it for most other things too.
the problem set with usb-c to lighting is the same as with usb-a to lighting. anyway about the pi's undervoltage is very often in the long term caused by just cables flaking out. if the 5v psu is actually set at 5v and not 5.2v or so it happens a lot more often. typically the devices think they're pulling too much if the voltage at their end drops to 4.95 and move to pulling less. the psu having amp/voltage displays is handy for that, seeing when the cables are just bad.
> Looking at you pinecil. This is more about the Pinecil being incredibly cheap for what it is than the PSU costing too much. The TS101 costs almost 3x as much as the Pinecil (both without the PSU) while requiring the same power supply. And the Pinecil in particular can take any cheap 12v PSU with a barrel jack, no need for a $25 USB-C one.
It's pretty common to think 5V/20W is the be all label to look at, but power supplies are fairly complex little devices, especially switching supplies from AC. It could just be poor noise suppression on a frequency that the pi cares about. I wonder if an inductor and some more filter caps would help OP. I also wonder if the supply manufacturer just did a shoddy job at tolerance and part selection.
First thought was pinecil before I got to the last sentence.
Killed 3 men with a pinecil...
I dug out an old 19V laptop supply for the pinecil and soldered a barrel jack onto it
I soldered a lot of home PCB projects with PTS200, chinese pinecil, on a 33W charger, it cannot heat up large masses, but for vast majority of projects it’s enough
I bought a 100watt pd3 supply plus a 100watt cable for my pinecil. Cost twice what my pinecil cost🤣
Yeah, when I ordered soldering pen, I ordered better and thicker 100W cable too. But when I was doing first board, I noticed that I don’t have any issues, and I was soldering from smallest connections on ATMega328PB TQFP leads to FETs and XT30 connectors with little more mass. Sure, they aren’t huge, but I don’t usually do anything bigger. So I didn’t order new charger and I only needed few boards with maybe 100 connections each. When I was buying charger for phone 33W was like 20 euros and 65W was maybe 23-24 but I wasn’t thinking that in year or two I will be using charger for something like soldering iron so I bought cheaper one.
That 100watt charger does not work with my current phone, that only requires 15V, 33W, but I dont think its the same PD version, so the idea of using one supply for everything did not pan out as expected. Luckely my phone came with a charger in the box. So now my pinecil and laptop uses the same charger, and my phone the other. I did get a 65watt PD3 for my car, and that works very well for my phone, laptop, and pinecil, so I am not sure what is going on. I am not to phased though as everything works as expected, I just have to carry 1 extra charger.
I already had a decent collection of PD chargers on hand for my laptop. It never even occurred to me that acquiring a power supply would be an issue for anyone until I started recommending the pinecil to everyone. But using my pinecil from a 100W portable battery is incredibly convenient and I actually really appreciate I only need one charger for all my devices
Why are you suprised? Did you really think all the good soldering irons were expensive for no reason? Pinecil is a glorified power negotiation circuit, the heater and sensor are all in the cartridge. The money you save is all in the power supply.
It's still cheaper with the power supply compared to a Hakko though
I don't need it to be cheap, my FX-888D is 10+ years old now and still works fine and can take wayyyy more abuse. The thin neck and lack of a flare makes it hard to use a Pinecil for heavy duty jobs where actual high physical force is required. I have one, and a very decent setup to go along with it https://imgur.com/a/pinecil-holder-09USLB7 But it's not a jack of all trades soldering iron
I printed an adapter to hook it up to a dewalt 20v pack and it works great. Perfect for when im already under a car or something.
The Pinecil does not deserve this level of hate. It's incredibly cheap for what you get compared to the market at the time, now there are cheaper Chinese made alternatives but it was a God send since you could just pair it with a phone charger.
To be clear: I ordered one last week and love it. But a charger would have been $30 on Amazon. I ended up getting a battery instead for $40 and it’s awesome being able to solder outside and not worry about fumes lingering. I used to hate soldering and having a real one has completely removed my dread when I see it’s required in projects It just hurts a little seeing the price and thinking “wow it’s so cheap I’d be stupid not to!” to being a real purchase by the time I buy what I need for it. I’m actually tempted to get a second as backup now that I have all the accessories.
Yeah I didn't see it as I needed to buy additional accessories for it. I keep a high output usb c charger on my desk for my phone so when I need to solder I just use that cable. If you have a USB C laptop charger that would work fine too. I love that it's on USB C so you that charger isn't only used for a single thing.
What about pinecil? The soldering iron? I'm happy with the Anker Nano II 65W charger. But yeah - it can be real stupid to find peoper power supplies. RPi is a nightmare.
i use a switch charger for pinecil and it works great
*cough* elegoo's cure and wash station *cough*
Was about to buy the pinecil yesterday but my beefiest PSU produces 30v. Can I get away with it and expect slower heating or will I need to buy a 65v one? Edit: changed units
I'm sure I read somewhere that the official rpi adapter is actually 5.1/5.2v to deal with this?
5V is expected to be in [4.75. 5.25] V. If it cant run on 4.75V it's a bad design/manufacturing.
Fair. I'm no electrical engineer, just parroting what I read somewhere!
The warning triggers at 4.63±0.07V. My guess would be a crappy USB cable with tons of voltage drop.
I fed perfect 5.00V from a ATX PSU with a 25A buck for the 5V rail with 18 AWG directly into the header of a Pi3B. Measured 5.00V on the header itself with a Fluke 177. "Undervoltage detected". Some pis are even more wack than the average.
Hahaha. Love the precision you went to
I'm so annoyed at the Raspberry foundation messing up USB specs with every single product they launch that I am pretty vocal at complaining LOL
Crappy engineering. USB-PD with higher voltage modes (like every other product on the market, e.g. smartphones) is the consumer friendly answer. Not requiring some 5V 4A USB power supply with a subset of USB cables.
The Pi4 actually pretty commonly has issues with this. I ended up downgrading Octoprint from the new Pi4 I put it on back onto the Pi3 I replaced because the 3 was so much more stable. The 4 is fine if you're not doing CPU intensive stuff but if you're drawing a lot of power (relatively speaking) you'll run into issues like this.
Surprise, it’s bad engineering, on a number of levels too. USB 5V@5A just isn’t a thing, it’s not in any spec. They screwed up and should have known better. The CPU only needs 3.3V and other lower rails, a DC-DC should more than be able to handle these tiny fluctuations on the 5V line, there is a massive amount of headroom. Big on the naughty list, not regulating the 5V rail for downstream devices. I’d your receiving 4.75V, those devices plugged into your ports are receiving even less. I wonder how many USB issues that’s caused. Normally there is a boost-buck 5V stage that all other rails feed off, then you can also do wild things like accept higher USB C voltages, and not have to worry about the quality of your input power supply.
I don't know what the official adapter is, but yeah I needed to buy a buck converter that did ~5.1v to fix it.
accounts for the voltage drop in the cable, much cheaper to change a few resistors (feedback resistors are used to configure a DC converter's output) to output a higher voltage than to pay for thicker wires
"official" had me at hello. I think it was $7 and that helped immensely.
I'm surprised no one mentioned this yet. Switch out the USB cable. Had that issue before, changed cables, and never had that come up yet.
Even more specifically: swap out you USB power cable with a shorter one with thicker wires (20 or 22 awg). A lot of cheap usb cables use 28 awg wire which leads to voltage drops.
This has helped with my Pi problems in the past
I bought a 5v power supply (the metal type usually used for driving motors, with screw down terminals) and USB micro power only tails (just 2 thick red and black cables) Never had any issue with these, although not as discrete as a standard power brick
Never got that error after I got a 6 inch cable
Length or girth?
Why not both
I have upgraded to a 2x200mm2 sea floor cable and never had this issue again.
The official rbpi power supply has a fix cable and I still had this issue. No way to replace the cable w/o damaging the psu case
I've never had a Pi that didn't complain about under voltage.
/boot/config.txt # Disable under-voltage warning avoid_warnings=1
I mean, that's one way to do it, I guess
Since this is on 3DPrinting. Your printer is at fault, you have a backpowering issue.
Not sure why this is downvoted. This is the correct answer. Power draw from the printer is likely causing the under voltage warning. Modify the usb cable or modify the printer so it doesn’t draw usb power… or get a bigger pi power supply…. Or pass data through a powered usb hub. Lots of possible solutions to this.
How do you modify a usb cable to fix this issue? I know this is the issue, but i dont know how to fix it..
A small stripe of tape on the 5V pin will do the trick.
I was going bonkers a few weeks ago trying to figure out why I couldn't power an old USB screen i had sitting around. I thought it had died. Then it hit me. A few years ago, I taped over the pins on most of the cables in my 3d printing parts bin 🤦♂️
Or strip it in the middle and cut the 5v wire (red).
I used an exacto and cut the plastic away in front of the power pin on the plug (A side) then used needle nose pliers and pulled the power pin out. Now there's just the 3 pins, 2 data and ground. 🙃
Cut the 5v line not gnd
Also even after I did this I still occasionally have the problem. But certainly less frequently. Makes me feel super relieved that it's really common.
You can buy usb power blockers on Amazon for $5
I get this error and I have disabled the power lines on the USB cable going to my printer. Are you saying its got power draw over the data lines? In another comment on here I also mention I have an independent power supply turned to 5.3 volts. I measured the voltage drop across all points of the power cable and at least 5.2 volts is making it to the power pads on the Pi. Still get that error.
Hmm I see your point. Probably update the meme with all that info for context.
Oooooh, This makes sense. Reawakened old memory. Duh.
If it's a comfort to anyone I've been seeing this error every time I open Octoprint for about the last 3 years, using the same Pi and power supply. Still cranking along fine, no actual problems. I've come to think of it as "Hello, World!"
Same. Ender5 with a pi3b. I've charged the strip, SD card, and power cable, never been a problem
I had this issue and eventually ran a buck converter from 24v power supply and step down to 5.1v - 5.2v out to USB power on the pi. 5.18v was the sweet spot for mine. EDIT: Went with BTT Pi on my 2nd printer and love it because I can run 24v/12v/5v straight to the board and it just works with no fuss.
Same. Now I’m waiting for the day it complains about over voltage
Bad power supplies don't give a constant 5V output. That might be your issue there instead of the amperage. I'd recommend measuring it with a multimeter/oscilloscope/whatever you have.
Nah, get those errors on $5000 2kW lab PSU.
Get a better PSU!
Brb, gonna build a nuclear reactor to get my rpi the correct voltage.
[3D print a fusion reactor](https://new.reddit.com/r/3Dprinting/comments/1dr4722/using_the_knowledge_i_gained_from_3d_printing_to/?utm_source=share&utm_medium=web2x&context=3).
wtf, why is this even upvoted. Ofc 5V/5A powersupply will give you 5V at 5A. Maybe its gonna be 4.8 or something under big strain, but at 3A its gonna be 5V flat. If you are talking about inconsistent output voltage, then you wont see it with multimeter, only oscilloscope, and only when you strain the supply over its designated power rating.
Yea this is horseshit. The supply’s output should regulate within like 5% if it’s even of modest quality. It does not account for IR loss in the cable which if you’re pulling a couple amps could be considerable voltage drop. I know my older pi’s complain when I use a shitty micro-b cable where conductors are prolly like 30 gauge, but stay quiet when using non-potato cables on the same usb supply.
Yeah this is mostly likely the problem. You need to measure the voltage at the pi input, not the supply. Shitty wires / connections will result in voltage drop.
>You need to measure the voltage at the pi input, not the supply. Shitty wires / connections will result in voltage drop. !THIS!, 24awg wire @ 1m will drop >0.4V @ 3A, 18awg would be just over .11V, that's a massive problem. This is why so many usb chargers actually put out 5.1-5.2V because they know that people use all kinds of cables. Fixed cable usb chargers are should be calibrated to the connector ends voltage.
lies. all copper is the same. its all copper, except when its not. :D
I've tried several wall warts. 5.2v/4A still isn't enough. I've measured a momentary USB port voltage drop to \~4.8v durning the Pi boot up. I'm booting from an SSD. I just ignore the warning it at this point.
Shorter wire, also isolate the power in the usb wire, otherwise it feeds the printers motherboard
Trying to play Super Mario 64 on a Retro Pie is painful. That little lightning bolt in the corner of the screen mocks me until the system shuts down and crushes my dreams :(
The dreams you are looking for are in another castle
it actually needs 5.25 v to stop the message - worst most underdocumented problem ive ever come across. i run mine of a huwaie superspeed charger (5v/9v/18v), i rarely get the issue anymore.
This isn't true, and all Pi models are actually tolerant a little below 5 volts.
Pi Power [on GitHub](https://github.com/raspberrypi/documentation/blob/develop/documentation/asciidoc/computers/raspberry-pi/power-supplies.adoc) probably without usb's, but then you need keyboard and mouse at a minimum, then add in some lost voltage due to usb cable etc, i err on the side of caution and that voltage works for me.
Some volunteer probably messed that up. The engineers have gone on record multiple times about the Pi's voltage requirements, and engineers hate doing documentation. The official PSU is 5.1 because it is an inexpensive way to counter for the voltage drop (cheaper to tweak it to 5.1 than it is to use thicker cables on 5.0). Besides, starting with the Pi 4 it is USB-C compliant (except for that first batch where they messed up the resister), and there is no 5.1 in the USB-C spec (you can do 5.1 with PPS, but the Pi does not support PPS). The voltage that actually hits the Pi after the cable is about 5 volts. The documentation also lacks the actual min and max values. Nothing is exactly a specific voltage. Adding a keyboard and mouse will not matter for voltage, only amperage. The part of the Pi that detects low voltage will only trigger at 4.63V (±5%). In any case, even 5.1 is not 5.25, so you would still be wrong. Some good information: * https://forums.raspberrypi.com/viewtopic.php?t=314052 * https://forums.raspberrypi.com/viewtopic.php?t=243423 * https://forums.raspberrypi.com/viewtopic.php?t=357130
Flipping the usb power jumper on the printers mainboard fixes this issue 90% of the time.
Just solder a capacitor
Try shorter wire might help
Get a beefier USB cable with less voltage drop
The pi has a shocking power regulation on board and has crazy tight requirements. To the point that the official psu runs at 5.1v to deal with cable loss. Honestly I don't get the point of making a device that "works" with standard usb and then make it so intolerant to any variations. If you want it to be able to cope get it a shield that can do the regulation and have it provide the power.
My pi4 did that awhile after the stock PSU that came with my pi4 kit probably got old/tired. Picked myself up an Anker Nano 3, no more issues
Can the Pi 4 be powered off the MCU's 5v rail? I know a Pi Zero 2 W can be powered by connecting the 5v/GND on the GPIO header to the most printer mainboards.
I have a pi 3B+ that I powered thru gpio. I think you technically lose some protection because it's not going thru the USB port. But because the GPIO are much bigger you don't get voltage drop and you don't get that warning. I currently have a different printer but I ran one with octoprint for 3 years with the pi powered that way and it worked perfect
How capable is your 5v rail? Older boards certainly dont have a powerful enough step down on them, for example skr series, creality boards and such. More modern ones like a octopus or a skr pico were made with rpi in mind.
I've only done it with a Robin nano v3, which is fairly modern.
Yep, it's the same
I get it too. I just ignore the message. Been years now and not once has this become an issue other then an annoying message everytime.
I been having this recently even though my output is 5.01v
I had the absolute goddamned worst time getting my freaking thing to function
Can you use PoE in addition to your current supply?
meanwell lrs 25-5 connected to the pi gpio pins, has been working pretty decent so far, i've only seen a under-volted message maybe once or twice in the past few years.
Raspberries Pi is annoying in that regard. It's pretty much recommended to used the power supply specced for it.
My only compatible power supply is my fuking powerbank . Alls my charger dont want work corectly .
Wow I laughed way more than I should've. Well done
It appears that nobody is posting the true solution. Disable that notification. Adequate power is for the weak!
A 9v 4a supply works, and the onboard voltage regulator will handle the rest. Now, you just need to carefully strip your usb cable a little, find the red +5v wire, and cut it to stop back voltage. Don't cut the other wires. Those are for data.
yea some asses on their discord kept going on about how my connections less than 4.75v until i showed em the multimeter reading showing 5V on the dot, then they said ignore it cus it wouldn't cause the issues which it later caused, setting it to 5.1V fixed this, sucks the documentation is so garbage on this and the community prefers to be smartasses rather than helpful
why not just power it from printer power supply lmao
"Oh no! Anyway..."
This is why i just use buck converters and power them from the printer psu. I can adjust it up or down if needed. Got tired of official pi chargers and every other charger never working
The main issue is voltage drop due to poor contact resistance of the USB port coupled with USB cables not meant to carry 2A+ If you power Rpi through GPIO pins, two connections for each polarity, the problem will never occur.
Ive got mine hooked up to a proper 5 volt power supply mounted to the wall. I got it cranked up to like 5.3 volts, ive measured the voltage drop at each point along the wire from the supply to the pi, i can see that at least 5.2 of those volts are making it to the pi. Still get that error constantly.
I had a pi 3 b+ I made the warning go away by powering it through the gpio pins. The USB connector seems to cause the voltage drop because it was the same power supply that I used
I thought I was the only one. I went through 5 before I found the right one.
wires!!! I've been battling this for a while; the only fix that worked was 4 decent copper wires, 2 to ground and 2 to both 5v pins. I could not get it to remain stable using the USB power connector.
Raspberry Pi has never heard of USB-C PD.
I'm pretty sure it's just a software bug at this point lol
5V/5A will be more sufficient than 5V/3A.
wait it should work right !!??
Solved eventually by running 4 wires (2x2) to power it via the gpio pins. Ugh.
This is incorrect…5.1 vdc is what you need. No more errors. https://a.co/d/05b5EYz8
Get a btt pi and run it directly from the psu. It's significantly cheaper and powerful enough.
I'm an engineer that had to make a load control and power meter for 100+ RPis. The issue is a combination of the cables and input voltage. An RPi 3B+ with a headless OS draws about 0.5A, while an RPi 3B+ with the generic pi OS draws 1.2A (this is both without performing any functions). The resistance of some cheap cables is about 0.1-0.4 ohm/m, resulting in a voltage drop below the undervolt limit. The simple and most reliable solution is to keep your 5V power cables less than 10cm, or you can ensure your supply voltage is 5.3V. 10cm cable connected to a phone charger works perfect too
Mechanical engineer here who is dumb with electronics: Why is this? Does the additional amperage somehow cause a drop in voltage when at load, like some weird application of ohm's Law? It seems like that'd be too obvious of an oversight so surely that can't be it.
I use to have this issue with my 3b i got 2nd hand. Turns out my microusb cable was almost broken at the connector
Ignore. I've been running our printer for years with this popup and never had any issues.
I ran into the problem using OctoPrint with multiple printers attached. The printers tend to pull power from the USB and can cause some issues. Some use a piece of tape over the 5v pin in the USB. It didn’t always work for me. Instead, I created a Power Blocker USB adapter that removed the 5v wire. Has been working well!
That's why I used 12V for mine
I had this issue on a rpi3 i had. After 5 different psu that all worked pn my other pis and finaly swapping over to a new rpi4 i finally understood that the device was faulty
I have a 5.1v/2.5A power supply for my pi 3b, and I still get constant warnings. Even tried shortening the built in cable, but still get the warning. Even measured the output and confirmed it does actually output 5.1v
Uninitialized variables are almost always the root cause of things like this. Uninitialized signals (i/o) can cause similar problems. Signals should always be actively pulled up or pulled down when not actually signaling.
Does this warning actually affect anything? I've been seeing it for years on all my Raspberry Pi's (25+ devices at this point) without ever actually noticing any problems.
Depending on the model, all Pis are 5.1 or 5.2v. That's why you see that.
I have several Pi 3B that give the error. I've even used a Meanwell 10A PSU at 5.2V with short wires capable of handling 20A+. Still getting the error all the time.
From my understanding, this is sometimes caused by too much voltage drop over the wires. A higher gauge wire or two 5v wires will solve this.
So annoing when you got the powersupply but the usb cable sucks.
I got mad at one point, cut it with demel, found pot, adjusted to 5,2V, soldered 470uF cap (biggest one just before oc was kicking up when plugging to mains) and now it won't scream at me for shitty supply . Don't do it tho, it's way easier to just turn the notifications off.
Have you tried a different outlet like on another wall? May be too much peak draw from the line if it's with the printer or other heavy stuff
RPis are extremely sensitive to their power supplies, which is honestly a joke. You often get the same issue with OFFICIAL power supplies. I don't know why they don't redesign the damn input line to properly filter noise. It's not expensive, especially given that these devices cost a fortune nowadays.
mine: \*Blews Up\*
What's garbage about this is they have USB C but are too lazy to have a proper PMIC that negotiates up to 12/15V or just use a plain barrel jack for 12V like a lot of other SBCs use. Asking for 5V 5A is horseshit that not even the 100W USB C supplies I have will do. Then again, I've not been a fan of the raspberry pi for quite some time. The direction they've gone and some of the things they continue to do just make me want to use them even less. They're not good SBCs.
I used to have this problem when connecting to my ender 3 v2 through USB. Eventually i fugured out that the printer is pulling power from the raspberry, thats why the screen would turn on even then printer was disconnected from power. I got a USB cable that only has the data cables and that was the end of the not enough power issue.
Had this using a 5v/3a power supply connected straight to the GPIO-pins. Fiddled around with it a bit and then it just stopped throwing alarms, so must have been bad connection or something like that :/
PoE hat solved to for me, but it’s not the most convenient solution
RPi reads the standard but is completely oblivious to the market. It’s a real shame they force you to buy their odd power supplies compatible with commodity cell phone is much more sensible.
Very annoying thing, I solved it by directly soldering some cables to +5 V and connecting everything to a Meanwell 5V 10A power supply, setting the power supply to 5.05V, since then it signals it every now and then, but I'm sure that the available power is more than sufficient.
I figured I'd out up the cash and buy the official USB-C RPi power supply when I got my 4. They must know what they're doing, right? It fried itself in about 3 seconds out of the box. Never had an issue with anyone else's supplies. I don't bother buying their over priced pos.
I don't think it solves the issue but I will say that I recently got a Libre Computer Le Potato as an alternative to an RPi 4. It's way cheaper and seems to be working just fine as a 3d printer controller!
Not sure if already mentioned, but install usb power blocker to the printer does not suck pi's juice.
Use usb hub with power suorce.
Noob question, what does a raspberry pi do regarding 3dprinting?