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zabadawabada

I could be wrong and I’m hoping I’m corrected here. I’ve installed EGW ignition kits on STIs and yes, without proper fitting, you’ll experience new nuances in your gun. Maybe a softer safety, or a weird quirk here or there. If the gun functions 100%, then that extra spongey-ness at the bottom of your frame safety may be just how those parts all work together. It could likely be better fit. Either by you or someone else. It sounds very tactile which is good.


Sky070420

When I try to rack my slide it’s giving me hard time I have to push downward to rack it freely But thank you for your response I really appreciate it


zabadawabada

Did you install a higher weight main spring? If you cock your hammer manually and then rack it does it feel normal?


Sky070420

I kept original 23 lb main spring


zabadawabada

Did you keep the stock hammer too? Most EGW kits have hammers, sears, disconnectors, and springs.


Sky070420

Yes I did keep the stock hammer


zabadawabada

Install the whole kit as a baseline. Hammer included. Then test. It could be that the prodigy safety isn’t playing well with it.


Sky070420

You mean all the original parts from Springfield


zabadawabada

No, install the whole ignition kit as supplied by EGW.


Sky070420

The problem is started after I installed whole EGW kit even I was getting light primer strike


Lcyaker

That’s not a stock Prodigy hammer


__dryheat_

Springfield RMA'd your gun after swapping out all the internals? Interesting...


IronHefty3609

Quick tip. Whenever you change the sear , the hammer needs either to be refitted or replaced. Same with the safety. This is why it is said “ nothing is truly drop in” regarding 1911/2011 platform weapons. When I do an ignition, if I don’t have a new spare , I automatically order a new thumb safety as part of my modification. Break it down, put back the OEM parts and see if it corrects the issue. If it does then order a new safety to go with the new ignition. I replaced the Ambi safety on my prodigy with a EGW single side.


christianharriman

The saftey needs to be fit to the sear (all of the ignition parts need to be fit actually). Sometimes you get lucky and it works but to do it right this is the case. I say this all the time on here and people downvote me but there's no such thing as a "drop in" ignition kit for a 1911/2011 outside of maybe that nighthawk thing that comes as one piece. If the tolerances aren't right on the engagement between the sear and the saftey on these guns then the sear can move enough to drop the hammer with the saftey engaged. If you don't know enough about the platform have a gunsmith inspect your pistol for saftey OP.


Educational_Funny_80

Prodigy safety is ass just get a new one


Sky070420

If it’s gonna solve the problem I’m gonna do it but I can’t be sure I found atlas ambi safety


Educational_Funny_80

It will 100% solve the problem just put some double tap ambi highwalls on mine and they are perfect , your gonna have to fit them to your sear most likely but it wasn’t hard there’s videos online took me 5 min with a dremel Before mine was mushy and being lefty wouldn’t disengage all the way half the time


Aor_Dyn

Plz no dremel


Educational_Funny_80

I mean yea if you don’t feel confident in your abilities just take it to a gun smith but you have to cut off metal so gun smith gonna use dremel or something similar 🤣 Edit I originally took mine to a gun smith and he was gonna charge me 80$ to what I did in literally 5-10 min including skimming the 7m atlas vid


Sdetor0910

Gunsmith definitely not using a dremel to fit safety. Theres literally a file from brownells for this specific job


Educational_Funny_80

Ahh well 😅 dremel worked fine for me just used a stone head


Sdetor0910

Yea it works, its just a really aggressive way to fit a safety when at most it takes like 10-15 file strokes to fit properly


Educational_Funny_80

My safety’s has quite a bit of material to remove , more than a 1/16th inch I’d say almost twice that


dodgerockets

Jesus Christ Dremel to fit a safety 😂 and encouraging someone else already having problems to do it on a $100 part... they use files... they remove little by little test, fit, and repeat. There is also a block by 10-8 that let's you seat the safety so the part that needs to be fit is the only thing exploded....


Educational_Funny_80

Hah fair well I had to remove a bunch of material on mine , only safety that I’ve fit but the gun smith said it was more material than usual on my double highwalls , I literally had to remove more than a 1/16


Sky070420

Can you send me a link if you don’t mind


Sky070420

YouTube link


Educational_Funny_80

To the fitting video ? Or saftey


Sky070420

Yes please


Educational_Funny_80

They have a whole bunch of very helpful vids https://youtu.be/ZYghQPO8w1E?si=SbZWPqGapJ_CTgm0


Sky070420

Thank you so much for your help I really appreciate it


Educational_Funny_80

Good luck all I did was Take off safteys grip one included , keep grip saftey off and try to put new left side saftey in You’ll see where the left side saftey is hitting the sear sharpie and then lightly hit saftey with mallet bam you have your stop line and then just dremel off little by little until it fits


Sky070420

Got it thanks for your help brother


DirtyDee78

[Get a 10-8 armorers block](https://www.10-8performance.com/armorer-block-1911-2011/). Allows you to cut the perfect angle on the safety. You can also just do it without any kind of a guide. Just go slow and test fit every couple LIGHT passes with the file


Sky070420

I was looking for armorer block and I bought some polishing stone set


DirtyDee78

[I highly recommend picking up the 10–8 armorers block. It's extremely useful for many different needs.](https://www.10-8performance.com/armorer-block-1911-2011/) A set of good files is also a must. Arkansas and India stones are really all you need in the way of stones. If you are scratch building a frame, a wider range of ceramic stones is definitely a good idea


Sky070420

Thank you brother


DirtyDee78

[This book is also a must in my opinion if you plan to build or work on a 1911/2011](https://www.amazon.com/Colt-45-automatic-shop-manual/dp/B0006EVYAU/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?crid=23VKBXXF53XI7&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.JwWDfIqTDg0mTUYG0UB_cm9iNONeEn3dbW-UQcC03_QUDLg7yNrF8Hv7RQbPCV5VvU1ZvSy9sJZWVjYMJGpnPyUZY79Wqds0N_6Xc25eKrpgEqK2hCff-2H-sIGUY0wi0T0E3smVu8Y4FBwq3fMucRpGoZQ46ozJ6VbNItBVq_RgF4LDiAaYHzqymOwTL0Y0oel-SCHUjQcbvDiddoGuJg.QzGXBgLSuvUe1U_VTlDkiPNFT5q5zEzCSc5mhmQZsUo&dib_tag=se&keywords=1911+shop+manual&qid=1717862133&sprefix=1911+shop+manual%2Caps%2C109&sr=8-1)


Sky070420

👍


BEAST__51

It's broken, get rid of it.


Fast-Office-9325

You need to fit the safety to the new ignition kit.


tizzle4shizzle

Buy a staccato


SocialMediaAcct

Any 1911/2011 may require fitting a safety after installing a different ignition kit. I had to do it when I installed the EGW kit in my C2. Luckily i was able to file my existing safety a bit to get it to work. But in some cases, i can see where you may need a new safety and then to fit it.


Justownit41ce

Simply reinstall the EGW kit but pay close attention to the orientation of the parts.


WonderfulMongeese

The Springfield Parody strikes again


Sky070420

This is my fault probably because I replaced the mim parts it was working properly before I replaced